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From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:36:38 -0400 Subject: Polybushes I've seen advertisements for "comfort" polybushes (they are pictured as blue rather than the usual yellow). They are supposed to be softer than usual polybushes. Anyone tried them? Peter -- Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences | Phone: 302-831-1873 University of Delaware | FAX : 302-831-4511 Newark, DE 19716 USA WWW : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:32:15 +0100 Subject: Re: Bushings \the bolts, nothing more. If they were priced close enough to rubber \bushings, I would probably buy the poly instead, but I wouldn't hesitate t\o buy the rubber ones if the poly bushes were over priced. Just one \m\ore opinion. I'll fit polys whwen the time comes. Why? Extra life, but mainly cos they're supposed to be trivial to press out next replacement in comparison to the bastard rubber ones. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:24:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote: >Need some ideas on how to get this plug out without removing the engine >and hauling it off to a machine shop. Also wondering why the plug would >corrode away in only 3 years since I rebuilt the engine??? Woof...this is a tough bugger. When I took my engine into a machine shop a decade ago, the machinist said he had to use his biggest wrench/cheater bar AND heat to free the bloody thing. Unfortunately, you need full access to get it loose. However, this is a good time to fit a block heater. The plug is 1" NPT, i believe. >Made another discovery, one of the freeze plugs has been leaking and >looks very corroded. Appears to be on its last legs. Is it possible to >replace the freeze plug in the vehicle and how do you go about doing >it???? You'd have to remove both manifolds, and that *might* give you enough room to get the NPT plug as well. There are three "freeze" plugs (they're actually remnants of the casting process), and just about any autoparts store carries generic replacements. Just dress the hole up with a brake cylinder hone first to make sure it'll seal. Good luck *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:45:11 EDT Subject: Re: Generator not charging Markus, Not totally sure here, but on my '66 FFR 24V, there is no idiot light. It has two ammeters, one for the truck circuit and batteries and another for the radio circuit and batteries. You should have a dual relay box in the cargo section of your truck. It splits the electricity feed for the system. One half controls the truck, the other the batteries. My first thoughts are that truck side of the relays has gone bad. Use a Volt/Ohm meter to check the input to each side of the relays to make sure the alternator is charging. Then check the output side of the relay to see what the voltage is. (Check at the big lugs on either side of the relays where the wires attach). Larry Smith Chester, VA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RADATA3@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:54:34 EDT Subject: subscribe subscribe Thank You Randy Anderson '72 SIII 88" '79 Discovery "XD" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:10:51 EDT Subject: Re: subscribe In a message dated 10/23/98 10:56:27 AM, you wrote: <<Randy Anderson '72 SIII 88" '79 Discovery "XD">> Wow! A pre-production XD. Talk about rare! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:36:58 +0000 Subject: Re: subscribe '79 Discovery "XD">> >Wow! A pre-production XD. Talk about rare! Maybe not.If you look at Land Rovers own website http://www.landroverworld.com/ LR50 you will be delighted to learn that the S111 109" forward control was released in 1959...so there's obviously something they know that we dont! Mike Rooth - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 05:55:35 -1000 Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. >Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote: >>Need some ideas on how to get this plug out without removing the engine >>and hauling it off to a machine shop. Also wondering why the plug would >>corrode away in only 3 years since I rebuilt the engine??? >However, this is a good time to fit a block heater. If nothing else works, and if you have a dremel tool. . . You mention that the plug has rotted out in the center. Fit a small carbide cutter and remove most of the rest of the plug. Use a small tipped punch or chisel and work around the plug, trying to get the walls/threads to collapse into the now hollow center. Run a tap through after all this to fix/clean and threads mangled. Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:02:42 -1000 Subject: Re: More Stuff >I am currently converting a '77 MGB to Rover SD-1 V8 and 5spd, and have >recently aquired 11 215 alloy engines. About half are the Buick four bolt >per cylinder engines and the other half are the five bolt Olds 215s. Some >are complete engines and others are split apart into components, but all >appear to be rebuildable. For the unknowing (me) is the GM 215 the same as the Rover V-8? If so will it bolt to the LR 4spd box? Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:16:16 PDT Subject: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! Saw this on the local news last night and thought that I'd pass on the info. to everyone. Fisher Price (makes the Power Wheels brand of electric cars) is recalling all of their toy electric cars, trucks, jeeps, and other battery powers rideable toys for kids. The recall goes back to toys made in 1984. Evidently there is a problem with the connectors to the battery(s), the vehicle and the charging units. They will overheat and can start a fire. The news said that there have been over 150 fires and 9 kids have been hurt as a result. In addition to the fire hazard there is also some sort of wiring problem that will keep the vehicles from stopping. This is another safety hazard for kids as they could be carried outinto traffic or otherwise placed in danger from lack of control. Fisher Price recommends that you take the battery (or both as some models have two) out and keep it seperated from the vehicle. These vehicles do not have to be operating to catch on fire. They can just be sitting in your garage and suddenly combust/start to burn. Again - just wanted to pass this info to all of you who have the Power Wheels toys for your kids. Pass this along - I'd hate to see another child injured when we can help to pass the word and the manufacturer is willing to repair the toys free of charge. Scott Phillips 1984 CJ-7 http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:26:25 PDT Subject: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! Forgot to add that you can call an 800 # (but I forgot to wrote it down) or go to the web page at: http://www.powerwheels.com for more information on how to get the recall work done on your toy. Scott Phillips 1984 CJ-7 http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:25:17 -1000 Subject: Re: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! >Scott Phillips >1984 CJ-7 >http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott >http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm >Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep Wonder how this got on our list? Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:49:49 EDT Subject: Re: More Stuff In a message dated 98-10-23 12:10:15 EDT, you write: << For the unknowing (me) is the GM 215 the same as the Rover V-8? If so will it bolt to the LR 4spd box? Pete >> To answer the questions in order: Sort of, and nope. The Buick blocks have different rear main seals, the crank length at the rear is longer, has a different starter, different oil pump (similar, but enough to be different), and I believe, there's a difference in the number of cylinder head bolts (though, I've been told that you can interchange heads with no real problems). The Buick block is known to be weaker, due to the manner in which it was cast. (though, there are still lots of Buick 215's around) To mate it to the LR gearbox, you'll need an adapter kit - about $250? Charles - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Casey McMullen <st93wxta@drexel.edu> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:56:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! I guess anyone's kid could have one of these right? On his web site it says his brother has a D90, in the pictures section there is an unpleasent snap of a truck upside down in a big puddle with what looks like LR wheels sticking out. Casey M According to Peter Hope: > >Scott Phillips > >1984 CJ-7 > >http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm > >Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep > Wonder how this got on our list? > Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: asfco <asfco@banet.net> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:00:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. > Woof...this is a tough bugger. When I took my engine into a machine shop a > decade ago, the machinist said he had to use his biggest wrench/cheater bar > AND heat to free the bloody thing. Unfortunately, you need full access to > get it loose. However, this is a good time to fit a block heater. The > plug is 1" NPT, i believe. I have to agree with Sandy on this one While everything will have to be removed to get to the plug anyway...fit a block heater..don't be a block-head 1" NPT available from Phillips-Temro... Rgds Steve Bradke 68 series lla 88 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:25:47 EDT Subject: Re: Power Wheels Toy vehicle /satire! In a message dated 10/23/98 12:18:02 PM, you wrote: <<Evidently there is a problem with the connectors to the battery(s), the vehicle and the charging units. They will overheat and can start a fire. The news said that there have been over 150 fires and 9 kids have been hurt as a result.>> See, even more reason we should all have fire extinguishers within reach of the driver... does that mean that 141 kids knew to get out of a burning toy?? ;-) <<In addition to the fire hazard there is also some sort of wiring problem that will keep the vehicles from stopping. This is another safety hazard for kids as they could be carried outinto traffic or otherwise placed in danger from lack of control.>> Damn ABS wiring. Always fouling up just after the 30 day money back guarantee from toys 'r' us runs out! The flintstones had it easier. BTW, speaking of kids' vehicles, has anyone else seen the mini-RR for $17,000 at FAO Schwantz? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:28:47 EDT Subject: Re: Re: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! In a message dated 10/23/98 12:32:27 PM, you wrote: <<>Scott Phillips >1984 CJ-7 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)] >http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm >Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep Wonder how this got on our list?>> Spies. They're everywhere... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:16:35 -1000 Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. >While everything will have to be removed to get to the plug anyway...fit >a block heater.. What is the purpose of a block heater? I didn't think it was something that would be needed on a vehicle in hawaii? Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:28:15 -0700 Subject: Santana springs Paul, I don't believe you are correct. My understanding is that the 'Santana' springs are NOT parabolic springs. They are different from the typical springs under most LR's though. I apologize for being wrong if that is the case, for I have little experience. I did a little digging though when I bought my LR, because I intended on buying Parabolics that came from TI Console out of the Netherlands (they have neat stuff like disk brakes and power steering). They have a web sight, I don't recall the address, but I know there is a distributor in the US and Chris Perfect Components in the UK. Furthermore, Ray Wood, of Wise Owl in BC was the supplier for these springs. I have talked with Ray and asked if he had the parabolics. He said he only had the stock springs and spanish ones, NOT parabolics. If I am wrong, PLEASE tell me! The spanish springs Ray Wood has are FARRRRRR cheaper than 'Parabolics'. Just my 2 CP (Canadian Pesos) Kirk -- "Faith without works is dead." Maranatha, selah. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:28 -0500 Subject: RE: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. > I didn't think it was something that would be needed on a > vehicle in hawaii? But when you do need it in Hawaii... trust me... you'll need one BAD... You'll have to have something to take you across the frozen tundra they once called the pacific ocean... According to everyone preaching on the sidewalks here in NYC, that time is sooner than you think... so you better watch out. -Scott - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:27:10 -0700 Subject: RE: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. Peter writes: What is the purpose of a block heater? I didn't think it was something that would be needed on a vehicle in hawaii? Pete Only if you're working on the big telescopes up on Keck Peak... Brrrr... Paul in Victoria. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:28:12 -0700 Subject: strng whls >From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> >Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 20:01:18 >Subject: Steering Wheels Bob said: >>I remember measuring my first L-R 80" that I had and it was 15/16 diameter >>spline. The only steering wheels I could find in the books was some early >>Jags and the Healey 3000. >>I don't know if they use the pinch bolt mounting however. Jim asked: >Let me get this straight, Are you saying that these Healey and Jag. >steering wheels will fit the older steering box for Land-Rover? What a >wonderful thing to have a burl walnut steering wheel on Vicky 8^). >Jim Wolf Hi Jim, It's been a real long time ago, but I remember a company offering steering wheel adapters for custom wheels and they listed the same one for the old Land-Rovers and also some jag models along with Healey 3000(6 cyl model). I can't say if the wheels mentioned had the same clamping bolt mounting however, and never found one to try. Bob B - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Albrecht, David Capt" <Albrecht@vafb4.vafb.af.mil> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 98 11:47:00 PDT Subject: RE: [JP] Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! the 800# is 1-800-977-8700 and they are giving out $10 coupons for each vehicle covered. It affects all dual battery setups and a lot of the single battery setups. If you live remote they will send instructions so that a certified electrician can make the repairs for you. David Power wheels Jeep and Front end loader to get the jeep unstuck '90YJ, 95 ZJ ---------- From: Scott Phillips[SMTP:goin4xn@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 9:26 AM Cc: derrick; fmaxwell; jrmaddux; efxguy; mlphilli; trails Subject: [JP] Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED! Forgot to add that you can call an 800 # (but I forgot to wrote it down) or go to the web page at: http://www.powerwheels.com for more information on how to get the recall work done on your toy. Scott Phillips 1984 CJ-7 http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep ===> Message End <====================================================== To unsubscribe see http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/jeeplists.htm This mailing list is proudly sponsored by Off-Road.com, Inc's Jeep Pages http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:29:38 EDT Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. Yes, the block heater is critically important, that is what heats the blockhead who is following close behind a series vehicle on steep mountain roads and causes him to die in a blazing inferno when he passes on a blind cliff hairpin turn. Can I put Two on is the real question. Zack Arbios - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 22:38:25 +0200 Subject: Swiss members? charset="iso-8859-1" Hi are there any Swiss members on the list. I need help to trace the company that received my S1 from Solihull in 1951 Riaan Botes '96 Tdi 110 PU '76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU '51 SI 80" ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BDFED5.F625BF40 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] [Attachment removed, was 36 lines.] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:18:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Santana springs As noted previously Santana only fitted Parabolics to their Series IIIa vehicles post 1982. Obviously the stockist knows his own stock, and presumably these are pre-1982 type Santana springs. Paul Fri, 23 Oct 1998 22:44 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch "Dougal Mc Landie" B 895 OJT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:18:16 -0400 Subject: Re: Springs NWC / Santana Parabolics << Mine has regular springs >> Shame ! << as did all Santana trucks prior to the IIIa models which began in 1982. >> Quite right. They were Santana`s cheaper alternative to going over to coils. Sadly my Landie currently only has Parabolics on the front, as Chris Perfect is still waiting for a delivery of rear springs, having sold all his stock at Billing. Paul Fri, 23 Oct 1998 22:26 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch "Dougal Mc Landie" B 895 OJT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:33:27 EDT Subject: Re: Swiss members? In a message dated 10/23/98 5:12:54 PM, you wrote: <<Hi are there any Swiss members on the list. I need help to trace the company that received my S1 from Solihull in 1951>> Those records are in a basement vault in Geneva and it may take a court order and worldwide opinion to help locate it... ;-) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:07:31 -0400 Subject: Waxy oil... Sheesh, I can't believe I screwed that up. I've been running around like a crazy person for a few weeks and now I can't even post an intelligent remark on the LRO list... Anyway I whipped off my recipe before I thought about it. First I wrote %45 wax %45 oil then said "that doesn't look right" and changed it. The reason it didn't look right is because I left out the diesel!! So now I'm thinking its about 20% wax 33.3% each of diesel and oil and something around %10 acetone (don't want to completely fill that can :-). But I will mix some more up this weekend and report without my brain tied behind my back. Chris - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:44:59 -0400 Subject: Steering box - plug-less Charles has raised a minor mystery about his plug-less box which he describes as "early". I don't think "early" is the appropriate description for you unique steering box. I do wonder what it is though. Prehaps the answer is South African, some sort of locally sourced box used in local assembly, or as a replacement. My '60 SIIs have filler plugs on the top of the steering boxes. Both the '54-'58 SI and SII/SIIA parts books show filler plugs for the steering boxes, though the plub for the earlier style SI box has the plug located above the box on the column. The SII/IIA green bible only refers to oil as lubrication for the box, and only shows boxes with filler plugs. Most parts other than the inner colum and main nut assembly are readily available for the early SII/SIIA boxes. If the box is rebuildable and uses LR parts, then you should be able to add a filler plug. Regards, David Cockey " but it's true - early steering boxes had no filler/drain plugs on them, and you had to remove them, and pack them in grease! (odd, since the truck IS a 2A - though having come from the South African Army about 20 years ago, they may have simply used what they had handy)" "Well...I took a looksee at my steering box today, and sure 'nuff, it's an early type (no filler/drain plugs)." - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis64@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:56:27 EDT Subject: Distance pcs. md. easy Howdy everyone, Finally got around to putting new distance pieces on my rear axle. Hopefully this will solve the leaky hub problem. Yes, I put new hub seals in, too. I asked you all re. dist. pcs. about a week ago, esp. re. using heat to install new ones. John Dillingham wrote me off-list, saying not to use a torch to heat it up, as you'll never get it done. He said to use a camp stove. I did that--about 5-10 min. of the distance piece cooking on there on full blast, and I just grabbed it w/ some channel locks and it slid right into place, over the RTV silicon I put on the stub shaft first. Whole process, from removing old dist. pc. to installing new one took me about 10 min. on the 2nd one I did. Bill Rice 64 SIIA 109 SW Mrs. Merdle Columbus GA, where it's still hot enough to work on your Rover shirtless - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis64@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:56:33 EDT Subject: Wheel cylinder blowout Howdy folks, While removing one of my old distance pieces and hammering at it like crazy, one of my unsecured (duh) brake cylinder end piece thingys fell out--kpplunk. No huge leakage of brake fluid. I just stuffed it back into the cylinder and had my assistant hold it while I continued work on the rest of the assy. Put everything back on there and it seems to be OK. Should I plan on brake failure soon? Thanks, Bill"I separate tech tips and stupid questions to make myself look less dumb" Rice - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:20:31 -0600 Subject: SII Steering Box. Just read the thread on Steering Boxes, and went out to look at the Red Dinosaur. (59 SII 88" SW) Original (I think) steering box has a filler plug, couldn't see drain plug with mud shields in place. While there also looked at Steering Relay I installed in 1991. I think there may be some confusion out there. From what I've heard one of you has owned pretty much all models and says there plugs are there. As I recall my original Steering Relay had a filler plug on the top, and that the new ones are filled through one of the bolts on the top ring. Neither had a unique drain plug. If we get quorum on this then I suggest someone out there better learn what part is what. If I am totally wrong here, you may turn the flames on but I cant imagine a oil filled device with out some means of filling it. Mitch and the Red Dinosaur - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:17:40 -0400 Subject: Re: Steering box - plug-less The steering box is at the lower end of the steering column, and has the shaft with the steering drop arm coming through the side. The steering relay is mounted through the front crossmember and is a 90 deg. crank. (Based on green bible usage.) I'm unaware of any LR steering boxes with drain plugs, just filler plugs. Normally the steering box oil shouldn't need changing since there isn't a source of contamination such as engine blow-by, and temperatures shouldn't be high enough to cause degradation. The SII/IIA maintenance schedules call for topping up, not changing. Regards, David Cockey - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:08:33 -0700 Subject: RE: strng whls Although I don't yet have my AH I think there would be a problem with interchanging the wheels. The wire spoke pattern *looks* the same on the older Series wheels as the normal spoked wheel on the AH. The standard wheel on AHs at least through the 100-6 were wires I believe. There were optional wheels available on later models. In addition, the AH had a slide switch on the front of the steering wheel which worked circumferentially. I don't know what it was for, but it looks similar to an ignition advance. I don't think the landrover could handle this attribute. In addition, the bulkhead side of the steering wheels are definitely different. My AH info comes from photos in Clausenger's and several other AH books. Clayton Kirkwood (916) 663-2368 kirkwood@garlic.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 01:21:12 EDT Subject: Re: Steering box - plug-less I think it's time to call in Scully and Mulder... Just to make sure that I wasn't seeing things (or, missing something for that matter), I just took a walk back outside, to look at my steering box. I came back inside, then went out again, because I thought I saw something that shouldn't be there. To make sure, I also compared what I found, to my '59 SII. And this is what I discovered... The steering box in my 109, appears to be a Land Rover steering box, HOWEVER...the steering column, upon closer examination, has been heavily modified... First thing I noticed, is a U-joint, just above the steering box! Odd, my '59 doesn't have one of these. Then, I noticed that there's no outer tube on the remainder of the column! Strange, because there is one going through the bulkhead. Any ideas anybody?????? Charles P.S. it's a very tidy conversion, though, and the rest of the steering appears to be stock. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 00:27:43 +1000 Subject: Ear Wax "oil" Jim Wolf wrote: >Why not have ear wax collecting points at all Land-Rover >events, then at the end of the season could be auctioned off. Gawd, you guys are gross !! 8-) Ron - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:36:38 Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine. Aloha Sandy Don't think I'll be fitting the block heater. Haven't had much use for one lately. Even the the top of Mauna Kea (Keck Peak for all the Malahinis) doesn't get significantly below freezing and its 13,000+ feet in the air. At our lowly 1,500' only occasionally gets into the low 60's. My problem now is that the plug has broken so I can no longer get a grip on it to twist it out. Tried a piece of 1'/4" stainless on the internal dogs and only succeeded in twisting the stainless steel. Am looking around for a piece of 3/8" stainless but doubt that will work either as this plug shows no sign that it will ever turn out. Tried the three other blocks that I have lying around and none of those will turn either. Probably will have to pull the fender and try the grinding technique suggested by Peter from the Concrete Island. Its an excuse to by a die grinder and a bunch of stones as well as the tap to clean it up after I bugger it up. Still looking for less drastic ideas so if anyone has any ideas, let me know. As far as the freeze plug, how do you get them out. Drive a screw driver through the center and pry them out or what. Thanks for the idea about dressing up the hole before installation. Probably not done when they were installed by the machine shop. From the amount of rust and crud around the plug, it looks it has been leaking since it was rebuilt three years ago. Is any sealant required on reinstallation??? Do you just beat the plug in with a block of wood. Mahalo Peter AUnfortunately, you need full access to >get it loose. However, this is a good time to fit a block heater. The >plug is 1" NPT, i believe. just about any autoparts >store carries generic replacements. Just dress the hole up with a brake >cylinder hone first to make sure it'll seal. Good luck > | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | > | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | > | Association of North American Rover Clubs | > | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | > |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | > *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 03:49:06 EDT Subject: Re: Steering box - plug-less(more) Took another look at my steering box: it's definately NOT a Rover item (at least, not Land Rover), as I was told that the series boxes, are aluminum, while this one's cast iron! Possibly the beginnings of a power steering conversion? I don't know, but I'm taking a very good look at it tomorrow! There's definately no filler plug, so a power 'box it could well be. While I'm thinking baout it, I've been forgetting to mention the strange crank pulley: I've seen lots of them, in which you have a fitting for a hand crank, as well as the crank-driven winches (with the U-joint flange bolted to the pulley), however, my pulley has what appears to be a tube, about 2 1/2 - 3 inches long, with a 1/2 inch slot cut along nearly the entire length of it (across both sides, and extending inwards to the pulley)...any takers as to what this is for? Definately not for a hand crank - can't imagine cranking a diesel! I don't know exactly what the truck did while in the SAA, but it did carry lots of people in the back (worn paint inside the top sides - right at back level), and had at least 4 different short-wave/FM/HAM radios (plugged antennae holes in the top, just above the front seats), has a VERY beat-up chassis (the patches probably cost as much as a replacement chassis - some sections were simply bent back into shape! Note: it has the standard Land Rover chassis, not a military one, though many SAA trucks were like this), and when I got it, it was painted a 3-tone desert camo (was originally the standard dark green). It originally had an upper and lower tailgate, but has had a station wagon door for most of its life. There's also some strange L- channel brackets bolted to the L.H. inner fender panel - possibly for a split charge system, or a compressor? Can't see any numerial markings through the paint, but there were a set of 1/2 wide stripes painted along the bottoms of the front wings (color unknown), and it has spare tire mounts on the bonnet, inside the R.H. side of the bed (behind the drivers' seat), and also on the rear door. The entire truck was camo when I got it ( except the galvanising ) including the top, and the grille and front bumper are black...there are traces of the front fenders having been painted red once???(the insides are green - matching the rest of the truck) I've been curious about it for some time, especially now, after seeing that steering box. Any guesses as to what this truck may have done in a past life? Charles 1962 SIIA 109 3-door diesel - ex-South African Army - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <rosvall@nbnet.nb.ca> Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 06:35:54 -0300 Subject: Re: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981024 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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