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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:17:53 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheels

In a message dated 10/20/98 10:04:14 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
TBache9248@aol.com writes:

of
 it can be used to replace the later plastic Series wheel.  I know the t/s
 cancelling rub tube will not be usable, but haven't seen one of those little
 rubber wheels survive the ages anyway.  Local club member fancys the wheel to
 match the one on his Triumph. >>

The next thing he'll be asking is where to find wire-spoke road wheels for the
Land Rover to match the ones on his Triumph... ;-)

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:25:22 -0400
Subject: ROVER, FYI

Longbridge unions get ultimatum 
BY CAROLINE MERRELL 
STAFF at Rover's Longbridge plant in Birmingham are to be told today
that their 18,000 jobs are at risk if they do not accept an overhaul of
working practices. BMW, which owns Rover, wants to raise productivity
levels by 30 per cent, to those of its German factories. 

See rest at:

http://www.the-times.co.uk/news/pages/Times/frontpage.html?1369144
<http://www.the-times.co.uk/news/pages/Times/frontpage.html?1369144> 

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:32:02 EDT
Subject: Re: ROVER, FYI

In a message dated 10/21/98 6:24:16 AM SA Pacific Standard Time,
peterg@aircast.com writes:

<< STAFF at Rover's Longbridge plant in Birmingham are to be told today
 that their 18,000 jobs are at risk if they do not accept an overhaul of
 working practices. BMW, which owns Rover, wants to raise productivity
 levels by 30 per cent, to those of its German factories. >>

And then they'll have to start serving Sauerkraut at the cafeteria...

:-)

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:42:06 -0400
Subject: RE: LR for sale in Philly

It's mostly original, even has an oil-bath air filter. I really wanted it to
be as original as possible and had a good access to parts where the
restoration was done in Canada. I have the bills (at my brothers house) for
all the original parts purchased. There is a parts dealer in Waterloo
Quebec, a few miles away from my brother's house, where it was all done
except for the body and paint stuff that was done in a car restoration
specialty place.

The paint is military "desert storm" sand color, not exactly a LR color but
as this is a Military vehicle I considered it would be more appropriate. I
did not want Kaki green... Other than that is pretty much all-original.
There are still a few thing to fix: the speedo cable needs replacing, the
winshield washer fluid bottle needs to be replaced (part is sitting in the
back!) and the seal for the original air filter needs replacing, minor
stuff. Also the front grill is a 'real' LR grill but not the original
Lightweight one.

Most of the bolts are not original, as I replaced them with stainless stell,
for obvious reasons, but that's about it. It has a full roll cage installed.
It looks great.  

Oil leaks are minimal...
             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:19:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels

Hi Art,
  I have the same problem with a VW steering wheel & solved it by
wrapping the whell with cord before fitting a whell cover.  The cord
diameter that you wrap the wheel with determines the resulting finished
diameter.  Wrapp it tightly & the cord never slips.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 98 08:34:44 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: ATTN: LEESBURG TRAILS! 

> After going through the gate marked "TRESPASSERS WILL BE PROSECUTED TO 
> THE FULLEST EXTENT OF THE LAW" we finally started trail riding. 

        >Unfortunately this is the kind of thing that gets even more trails
>closed, and gives Rover owners a bad name. If a trail is closed off, 
>KEEP OUT. We have enough people abusing the trails already. Let's not 
>give them one more reason to close all trails to 4wd's.

I have to concur with jim here. this was a seriously boneheaded move rick. Its 
not like you didn't know things had changed out there.

later
dave

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From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:55:03 -0500
Subject: ?How to remove heater control knobs....

I need to remove my heater control knobs in my IIA and put the controls on
another panel.  Anyone have any experience with this?  The knobs have a
little metal tab at their outer edge, and I'm guessing that I need to push
this in with a little screwdriver or something....

Thanks in advance for any help!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
<http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: 1970 Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery "Chukka," 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966
Series IIA 88" "SWAMBO,"  1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller,"  1968
Porsche 911L, Series 109" Project

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From: Markus Korth <mkorth@systline.de>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:03:27 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Generator not charging

Hello !

Today I made the painfull experience that my generator in my 24V
Lighweight doesn't charge the batteries, or, to be more accurat: The
batteries are empty, the voltmeter in my dashboard only shows an
outflow  and when startet manually even the windscreen motor doesn't
run. Perhaps the generator or the regulator (?) behind the passengers seat 
is gone.
Where should I start with fault finding ? Where and how can I measure
wether the generator produces any output ? The 24V generator has to
many outgoing wires...:-)
Where should I measure wether the regulator fails to open/close it's
relay ?

Any hints ?

Ciao
 Markus

-- 
Markus Korth              |      SYSTline 
mkorth@systline.de        |      Heiden Lemmermann 
Essen/Germany             |      Systemhaus GmbH
Key fingerprint = FA 10 36 1E A1 F7 F3 02  0D A9 14 60 A8 51 E4 D3

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:38:35 +0100
Subject: Re: ROVER, FYI

3000 jobs are to go.....this is what German knowhow does to British Industry
when the pound is strong....

Have a thought for the newly unemployed. Life is really a bitch.

Neil

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From: "scheidt, david" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 11:54:07 -0400
Subject: re: Generator not charging

Markus Korth:
:Today I made the painful experience that my generator in my 24V
:Lightweight doesn't charge the batteries, or, to be more accurate: The
:batteries are empty, the voltmeter in my dashboard only shows an
:outflow  and when startet manually even the windscreen motor doesn't
:run.

I presume that the lightweight has a charging idiot light?  If it lights,
then the 
gennys output is less than the current drawn.  If it doesn't light, it means
one
of three things: 1) the generator is functioning correctly 2) the wiring is
wrong 
3) the bulb is burnt out.  The idiot light is part of the circuit that is
providing excitation current to the generator;  without this current, the
generator won't function properly.  Thus, if the bulb has a broken filament,
or the wiring decided to take the week off, your charging system fails.  And
you don't get a warning about it!  The light should be lighted with the
ignition on, but the engine not running.  If this is not the case, 
quite likely you have a wiring problem.  

If your charge light is working properly, then still check all your wiring.
Almost all of my Land-Rover charging problems have been simple stuff like
wires that have broken or connections that have fallen off.  Undue every
connection, one at a time, clean it, make sure that the wire isn't broken
or loose at the terminal, and put it back.  If this doesn't solve the
problem, you likely have a problem with your generator or voltage regulator.

I don't know enough about the Land-Rover 24V system to tell you too terribly
much.  The first thing I would do is put the battery or batteries on a
charger.  If one of them won't take a charge, you would have problems 
that mimic a bad generator.
You can tell if the generator is producing any output 
by measuring from its output terminal to ground.  (The output should be the
heaviest gauge wire leaving the genny.)   You should have somewhat more than
24VDC, 27 to 29.  If you have a little less than this, I would suspect the
voltage regulator.  It may be adjustable.  If you have zero, I would suspect
that the generator has died.

David/Mr. Sinclair

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:51:56 -1000
Subject: Koenig PTO Winch update

Aloha
I have just finished rebuilding my PTO and solved the problem with the drive
(forward and reverse) not fully engaging.  I found that it is possible to
over tighten the clutches, thus preventing the selector sleeve from moving
fully into position.  Also I believe that gear lube is the appropriate
lubricant fopr these devices, not H2O.  Seems some of the seals in mine are
past their prime and alowed a quart of the stuff in.  I took pictures of the
thing.  If you would like to see them or have any questions drop me a ring
and I can email them after I get them developed.
Pete

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:16:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: steering wheels

>You can use the older wheel - but you have to replace the column and box

So what do you all think the story with my IIA is?  I've got a series three
wheel (all black, plastic/crud coated) on my 65 IIA.  Is there a late IIA
wheel, or does the three wheel indicate someone has replaced the steering
box/column?  Maybe a three wheel fits a IIA column.  I'd like to some day
restore the spoke wheel I've got and put it in my IIA - depending on the
box/column - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:33:24 -0400
Subject: Re: steering wheels

Peter asks:

>You can use the older wheel - but you have to replace the column and box
So what do you all think the story with my IIA is?  I've got a series three
wheel (all black, plastic/crud coated) on my 65 IIA.  Is there a late IIA
wheel, or does the three wheel indicate someone has replaced the steering
box/column?  Maybe a three wheel fits a IIA column.  I'd like to some day
restore the spoke wheel I've got and put it in my IIA - depending on the
box/column - Peter

What you have is most likely a late IIa or III column - these were the same. The
older and newer steering wheels didn't interchange - the I/II/IIa early
pinchbolt type wheel slid onto a straight spline on the end of the steering
column, and the late IIa/III steering wheel anchored with a nut onto a beveled
spline.

The two can't be interchanged.

Hunt around and find an old IIa column and rebuild it - then do the whole thing.
Replacing the column's not a nightmare with decent tools - you don't even need
to remove the pitman arm, just disconnect it from the balljoint.

               aj"Done one - need to do the other"r

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:54:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: steering wheels

>What you have is most likely a late IIa or III column - these were the
>same. The
>older and newer steering wheels didn't interchange - the I/II/IIa early
>pinchbolt type wheel slid onto a straight spline on the end of the steering
>column, and the late IIa/III steering wheel anchored with a nut onto a beveled
>spline.
>The two can't be interchanged.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Replacing the column's not a nightmare with decent tools - you don't even need
>to remove the pitman arm, just disconnect it from the balljoint.

Thanks AJ - I've got a whole set up from my spare rover - I think that it's
a 64 - that's where I got the spoked wheel - sos I know itl fit.

P "some day - I'll get to it "MK

BTW - are you around Boston?  I viset my parents and friends around there a
couple of times a year.

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:57:52 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheels

In a message dated 98-10-21 13:39:35 EDT, you write:

<< Hunt around and find an old IIa column and rebuild it - then do the whole
thing.
 >>

...Just so happens, I have a good LHD column/box, that I'll happily trade for
a good RHD column/box - the one in my 109 is dead, and it's the very early
type (can't add oil to it)

Charles
(In L.A.)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:26:35 -0400
Subject: Re: steering wheels

Charles complains about a dead steering box:

Can't add oil to it? Are you sure this is a Series II box? DO tell - never seen
one like that before.

Real dumb question - sure it's not a LHD box that's been installed upside down?
Seen that one once...

                         ajr

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 11:58:02 -0700
Subject: steering wheels

Hi,
With the talk about steering wheels interchange, I decided to do some trial
fitting with spares that I have here.

I remember measuring my first L-R 80" that I had and it was 15/16 diameter
spline. The only steering wheels I could find in the books was some early
Jags and the Healey 3000.
I don't know if they use the pinch bolt mounting however.

The early S2 steel spoked wheel fits on the S1 column.
But the later S2A 67 or 68 with plastic spokes is only 3/4" spline and will
not interchange.

Bob B
Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Nelly"

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:32:39 EDT
Subject: SII Rad. cap US equiv pt #

Howdy Folks,
Some of you wanted to know if I found a radiator cap for my SII Radiator.  I
did, and it's a Pronto brand cap, part number 46020.  Actually, I didn't find
it, I ordered it from RN, and now, as the loyal customer I am, I have let the
cat out of the bag.   Not that it's a big deal, as they only charged me about
8 or 12 bucks for it.

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From: Wayne R Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Date: 	Wed, 21 Oct 1998 10:07:08 -1000
Subject: Re: SII Rad. cap US equiv pt #

Aloha,

Does anyone in BC (Canada) have a Series IIA for sale? I will be
travelling to Vancouver BC in November, and I would be interested in
looking at any available IIA's.

Mahalo nui loa,

Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
NOAA/SWFSC/Honolulu Laboratory

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From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 12:19:43 -0400
Subject: Wax oil

Hello All.

Having fun just keeping up with work here, haven't touched the 109 since 
before not making it to GP.

My "recipe" for waxyoil seems to contains about 25% wax (buy it from a 
candle store) 65% 90 weight and 10% acetone.  In reality I mix the stuff up 
as I go.  I melt the wax and mix it with the oil to get a very thick mess 
and then add acetone to loosen it up and leave it at a honey-like 
consistency that will require mild heating to spray.  The acetone 
evaporates very quickly and the result is  a very quick, thick and solid 
coat -when it comes out just right.

CHEAP.  The wax is $1 a pound, and who doesn't have 90wt and acetone 
sitting around the house?

I think I'll try naptha as the solvent next time.

Chris

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:26:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ? BC (Canada) Series IIA for sale ?

At 10:07 AM 10/21/98 -1000, Wayne R. Haight wrote:
>Does anyone in BC (Canada) have a Series IIA for sale? I will be
>travelling to Vancouver BC in November, and I would be interested in
>looking at any available IIA's.

 Call Ray Wood at Wise Owl near Vancouver.  He may be able
 to put you in contact with a seller or two.  888-880-2600.

-Michael

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:33:06 -0700
Subject: RE: ? BC (Canada) Series IIA for sale ?

Also check out the BC Roverlanders web page at:

http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 16:00:10 -0700
Subject: RE: steering wheels

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 19:04:10
Subject: Ear Wax "oil"

>Subject: Re: Real home made wax oil...
>Perhaps if we pooled our resources, we could come up with enough to do a 
>couple of trucks at the same time.

Why not have ear wax collecting points at all Land-Rover events, then at
the end of the season could be auctioned off. 

Jim Wolf

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:03:02 -0500
Subject: Bouncing Mail-Oil/Grease-Swivel Pin  

><< I'm gone for a week to Honduras.
> I'll see if I can check my mail from there. >>
>Luis, you'd better be able to, or your server better be able to store it

all
>without bouncing it all over the d*mn place... I don't know if you were
around
>for a good bout of it. All we need to do is increase the list volume with a
>"good oil/grease or fwh/not" flamefest and your server will start bouncing
by
>oh, about day 3...

Well, I'm back, had to come earlier, they cant live without me!!

Dont worry Pat, I dont have a space limit on the server, so you all can
write all you want in my absence, it will not bounce (at least for that
reason!) I had 6~700 messages waiting for me.

The truck is parked again. Changeing bushings, rollers, oil seals and
numerous broken pieces (as found) all around.

And now that you mention, and I recall, I'm changing all the swivel oil
seals, SO, I can decide now if I want to go for grease or oil. Interesting
situation.

What did we concluded at last, that grease was better? or was it oil? or a
mixture of greasy oil?

:-}

I went back to the parts place where the guy memorized all the part's
numbers. I showed him my box full of broken parts, bushings and seals. I had
to tell him nothing. Just by looking inside the box he quickly made the list
of parts numbers, multiplied, made the sum and gave me the total. $173.
The dealer would have taken $350 for all that. I feel happy this time.

But I have a problem. The two-part big pins that serve as the swivel axis
(dont know their name) have to be replaced since they allow a lot of free
play. I found them nowhere and the dealer doesn't have them either. The
people there told me that since the innards of the part that fits in the
swivell are bronze they could be replaced and the pin rectified and fitted.
To do this, the pin itself would have to be made slimmer (some at least).
That has me thinking. Wouldn't it be weakened and made dangerous?

The dealer recomended doing so as the only way.
Any technical or pure-opinion-based input is welcome!!!

Glad to be back.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:11:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Unimog For Sale

> FWIW I came across this ad from the current edition of the Easthampton
> Star (Long Island, NY )
> UNIMOG 1967 4X4 S-404 built by Mercedes in Germany. Low mileage,
> restored canvass,winches,trailers,snow equipment options available.
> Built for NATO Forces. High mobility and reliability. When people must
> get through they use a Unimog. $ 10,000  212-721-4966
> Figured this may be of some interest
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Rgds,
> Steve Bradke  68 series lla

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:12:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Bouncing Mail-Oil/Grease-Swivel Pin

In a message dated 10/21/98 7:06:55 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr writes:

<< And now that you mention, and I recall, I'm changing all the swivel oil
 seals, SO, I can decide now if I want to go for grease or oil. Interesting
 situation. >>

Your truck takes OIL in the swivels. Pack the hub bearings in GREASE when you
install them.

That's all there is to it.

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:45:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Bouncing Mail-Oil/Grease-Swivel Pin

>> I can decide now if I want to go for grease or oil.<<

>Your truck takes OIL in the swivels. Pack the hub bearings in GREASE when you
>install them.
>That's all there is to it.

Really?!
Yea, oil for the swivels.  Why bother with grease in the hubs?!  It's going
to get churned in with the diff 90wt?

Shall we overflow accounts with another really long endless debate?      ;  )

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:41:49 -0700
Subject: Re: SII Rad. cap US equiv pt #

Wayne we have a totally rust free Series  II 88 for sale (us 3000) and we
also have several customers who are selling trucks. Give me a call at 1 888
880 2600 before you come ray Wood

----------

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From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:46:24 -0400
Subject: ss brake lines?

I recently discovered major cracks in my flexible hoses(only 2 years old!)
and I'd like to replace them with the braided stainless hoses. I believe
Goodridge makes them for the LR. Does anyone know a US source or have any
experience with these hoses?

Thanks,

Braman
1966 IIA 88"

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:43:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Wax oil

Hi Chris,
 You should try Minerial spirits in you waxoil mix.  It takes a little
longer to evaporate but it is what waxoil is made  of & thinned with.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 17:42:38
Subject: Re: steering wheels

My 1970 IIA 88 came with the new melt in your hands wheel.  Had to cover
the damn thing to keep from getting the chocolate goo all over myself
whenever I drive it.

A
 Is there a late IIA
>wheel, or does the three wheel indicate someone has replaced the steering
>box/column?  Maybe a three wheel fits a IIA column.  
>Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:07:26 -0700
Subject: RE: steering wheels

Resend: first never made it.

If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, with caveats! The
early spoke steering wheel fit onto an inner steering rod which goes
into the steering box. It also has two sets of slide on splines going
lengthwise down the shaft at the steering wheel end of the rod. The
two sets are seperated by a circumvential(sp?) groove which allows for
the bolt going through the back of the wire style (early) wheel. The
splines keep the steering wheel engaged to the rod rotationally, while
the bolt and grove keep the wheel from being pull off the shaft.
(There is also about a 1 inch difference in length between the two
shafts.

The newer wheel fits onto the same kind of splined shaft but only the
steering box end has the splines. The inch or so of the shaft closest
to the driver (you) is threaded and once the newer wheel engages the
splines a tightened down nut keeps the wheel from pulling off.

That said, it is probably possible to take a newer shaft to a machine
shop where they could fill in the threads by welding and align the new
to-be-cut splines with the lower ones. The machine shop could then
turn the shaft on a metal lathe and put the necessary groove in where
the wire wheel's bolt needs to go.

I've just gone through this thought exercise on my 59 SII. The old
shafts are nla so I would have had to go to the newer ugly plastic
wheel, get a used shaft, or go through the above machine shop route.
Fortunately, I contacted Wise Owl who had an old steering box
available (which I hope includes the shaft (true Ray???)

Sorry to be soooo long winded: not thinking particularly well these
days, and it was something I actually knew something about. Got a be
erudite when I get the chance ;>)))

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 00:49:52 EDT
Subject: Re: steering wheels

In a message dated 98-10-21 14:28:46 EDT, you write:

<< Charles complains about a dead steering box:
 
 Can't add oil to it? Are you sure this is a Series II box? DO tell - never
seen
 one like that before.
 
 Real dumb question - sure it's not a LHD box that's been installed upside
down?
 Seen that one once...
 >>

I'm pretty certain that that's the way it was made, but since you mention it,
I'll take a closer looksee tomorrow morning, but it's true - early steering
boxes had no filler/drain plugs on them, and you had to remove them, and pack
them in grease! (odd, since the truck IS a 2A - though having come from the
South African Army about 20 years ago, they may have simply used what they had
handy) I'd much rather install a slightly newer one.

Charles

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 23:06:04 +1000
Subject: Fw: More Stuff

>     Found on the net:
>     From: Phil Dooley, Phoenix Az, pdooley@amug.org on 19/10/1998 18:38
>     I am currently converting a '77 MGB to Rover SD-1 V8 and 5spd, and
>     have recently aquired 11 215 alloy engines. About half are the Buick
>     four bolt per cylinder engines and the other
>     half are the five bolt Olds 215s. Some are complete engines and others
>     are split apart into components, but all appear to be rebuildable.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>     changed ISPs and it may slip thru the cracks.
>     Phil Dooley, Phoenix Az, pdooley@amug.org

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 09:12:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Unimor For sale

High mobility and visibility.  When people must get through
they use a UNIMOG $ 10,000  212-721-4996

These things go for around 2000$ over here(and 25jears old)
Get on the plane and buy one and ship it over!!

Huub from Holland that is.
Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 06:37:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Wax oil

Chris,

Is that measurment by weight or volume?

                    ajr

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