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From: Marcel Viljoen <marcelv@msmail.cs.unp.ac.za>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:42:13 +0200
Subject: subscribe

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:13:43 -0500
Subject: Searching for info about Euro 6 cylinder engine

Hi All,
  I know little or nothing about the Euro 6 Cyl engine installed in the
LR's.  I now own one & want to know its falts(weakness) & how I can keep
it alive.  I have been told it is a gas pig.  Anything abut that?

Thanks
 Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:13:48 -0300
Subject: home made wax oil

Hi all. 
Since Sunday was a super nice day here in Nova Scotia after a month of
rain a friend and I did our annual frame oil.
 We have our own receipe that works amazingly well and has the bonus of
being really cheap. If you send a certified cheque for $1000 I will sent
the ingredient list. No takers on that offer? Oh well! Here it is for
free. 1 gallon of summer chainsaw chain oil (4 litres if you live in
Canada) 1 wax toilet seal ring (the largest size avilable).
 Heat the oil to just below boiling and desolve the wax in it. Spray on
while still hot. 1 gallon is enough to do a LandRover and 1 small car.
  Total cost about $6.60 Can.
      Have a lovely sticky time.
           John and Muddy

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:19:19 -0400
Subject: LR for sale in Philly

My '71 Lightweight fully restored LR is for sale and is now in Philly. I'm
selling it so I can put more 'stuff' on my D90 ! If anybody is interested in
seeing it, I live Center City Philly and work on I-95 near the Penn-Delaware
border. 

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 98 05:53:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Searching for info about Euro 6 cylinder engine

>Hi All,
>  I know little or nothing about the Euro 6 Cyl engine installed in the
>LR's.  I now own one & want to know its falts(weakness) & how I can keep
>it alive.  I have been told it is a gas pig.  Anything abut that?
>Thanks
> Rob Davis_Chicago

Rob,
I think you and John Hess are going to be exchanging lots of e-mails.  
About all I can tell you about them is from convoying around with the 
Hess family.

The LR 6 cyl is much better suited for pulling a loaded 109 than the four 
cylinder is. John has a favorite trick that drives me absolutely crazy. 

Imagine The Green Rover and Elvis (name of John's Dormie) driving North 
along the mountainous Pacific coast in the Redwood forest.  John is 
behind me as we reach the next long hill.  I speed up before the hill to 
attack it high on the HP curve, leaving Elvis way back.  The Green Rover 
is floored.  The four cylinder engine slowly drops down to 2200 RPM and I 
downshift to third to try & keep the revs up to make the best possible 
speed that the 2-1/4L engine can deliver.  Because I KNOW what is going 
to happen...  And sure enough Elvis sails right past me going at least 10 
MPH faster.  John looks at me, smiles and puts up four fingers indicating 
that he is cruising along in fourth gear and wondering what the big deal 
is.  He didn't speed up for the hill.  He didn't raise the revs to get to 
peak HP.  He does drive me crazy with this annual fall ritual!

If you look at the specs for the US spec 6 cyl you will notice that the 
torque peaks at the same place as the LR diesel only a lot higher.  While 
I keep thinking of the 6 cylinder to be an old inefficient design, I have 
to admit it moves Elvis around a lot faster than a four cylinder would 
and that added HP and torque makes a big difference on hills.

On one trip John & I compared fuel mileage a few times.  I think both his 
car and mine were getting about 16 MPG on this trip. (I have a Rochester 
carb).

I think that you will find that a even a worn European 6 cyl engine is 
faster and more powerful than a 2-1/4L.  I thought they would be best 
used as boat anchors or museum curiosities until I started convoying with 
them. I have learned to respect them.

Give the engine a chance.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:59:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Searching for info about Euro 6 cylinder engine

In a message dated 10/20/98 5:01:57 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
car4doc@concentric.net writes:

<< I have been told it is a gas pig.  Anything abut that? >>

You mean it is worse than any other LR?

Gerry

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From: "Keith Armstrong" <karmstrong@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:19:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Quaife

I seem to remember that it hasn't been too many years since the CART/Indy
Car folks (I'm sure that's a copyrighted term) "discovered" the Quaife
diff's.  Free improvements in lap times, cooler lubricant temps too.

the Quaife url is www.quaife.co.uk		

I know I'm just a coil driver, but TeriAnn's installation in the front axle
seems to make sense since that end seems to be uphill and loosing traction
most often in my experience.  Hmmmm, opinions here?

Keith A. Armstrong, CPA, PC 

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:26:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Quaife

In a message dated 10/20/98 10:15:37 AM, you wrote:

<<I seem to remember that it hasn't been too many years since the CART/Indy
Car folks (I'm sure that's a copyrighted term) "discovered" the Quaife
diff's.  Free improvements in lap times, cooler lubricant temps too.>>

I had one in a Honda CRX in 88/89 and I know the VW GTI fans in Europe had
them way before that.

<<the Quaife url is www.quaife.co.uk>>		

<<I know I'm just a coil driver, but TeriAnn's installation in the front axle
seems to make sense since that end seems to be uphill and loosing traction
most often in my experience.  Hmmmm, opinions here?>>

It does make sense, also because I don't think there is a Quaiffe for the
Salisbury rear axle... I've climbed some slippery slopes and the front axle
definitely lost traction first.

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:14:29 -0700
Subject: engine problem

>From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
>Subject: Re: Engine problem

Hi AJ,
The symptom sounds like the inline filter that is mostly plugged, Don't
forget the gauze at the fuel pump sediment bowl, and the fuel tank pickup
screen.
John Hess recently had something get into the fuel line that was moving and
restricting flow at speed.

Usually a stuck float will idle poorly and smoky, and will clear out a bit
when revved up.

Bob B

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:25:24 -0700
Subject: quaife site

Jim said:
>I found a web site that explains it and has a drawing, as well as 1996
>prices. Better than no prices at all.  
>http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/Quaife.html
>Jim Hall 
>Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

Hi Jim,
I couldn't see the price info, What am I missing. It only shows an index of
price lists.

Bob B

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 06:51:11 -1000
Subject: Re: home made wax oil

I never realised that wax would mix with oil.  Hmm maybe thats water I was
thinking about.

A couple years back I worked at a place that got some stuff from Kendel Oil.
It was a semi opaque light yellow in color.  About the consistancy of 90w.
Spray it on with gun we got from eastwood.  After a couple of days the stuff
would harden to a wax consistancy.  After this it was not sticky to the
touch, and if small scrathes appeared it kinda bled back together.  The
stuff was pretty amazing, but be carefull doing any welding repairs around
it. hehe
Is your concoction similar John?  And does it need to be reapllied every
year?
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:16:43 -0400
Subject: Real home made wax oil...

Wow,I hadn't thought of that. Up til now I have been tossing all the 
Q-tips I use in my ears after showering in a bucket and rendering the 
mass out once a year.
 
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:16:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Bouncing mail

I just read your message.
I had to comeback early.
Dont worry, our server can handle it, I have no space limit there.
BUT, I have 200+ messages left to read in order to catch up!!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

-----Mensaje original-----
De: SPYDERS@aol.com <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Para: lro@playground.sun.com <lro@playground.sun.com>
Fecha: Jueves 15 de Octubre de 1998 05:43 AM
Asunto: Re:

>In a message dated 10/14/98 10:17:37 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
>lgutierr@jccr.co.cr writes:
><< I'm gone for a week to Honduras.
> I'll see if I can check my mail from there. >>
>Luis, you'd better be able to, or your server better be able to store it

all
>without bouncing it all over the d*mn place... I don't know if you were
around
>for a good bout of it. All we need to do is increase the list volume with a
>"good oil/grease or fwh/not" flamefest and your server will start bouncing
by

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:16:10 -1000
Subject: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch

Aloha
my new project came with a Koenig 8000# PTO winch on the front.  Am hoping
someone on the list has some first hand knowledge.  Specifically, I pulled
the selector (forward-neutral-reverse) housing off last night to free up the
shift rod.  Some how the unit was full of water and all the controls are
pretty stiff.  Any way got the selector to work and when it is not attached
to the winch, the selector has about an inch plus of travel.  ie. from
neutral it can more over 1/2 forward and reverse.  When installed back on
the winch however it might move a 1/4 of an inch if I am lucky.  This small
amount does not get the detent ball fully out of the groove, but stays near
the upper shoulder of the groove. I am wondering how far forward and
backwards the clutch assembly should move.  Is the clutch tooo tight?  If I
turn the input shaft by hand and am holding down the selector switch the
cable drum does turn, but as soon as I let off the pressure it pops back in
neutral, I believe because of the detent and spring.  If the winch IS
supposed to operate in this fashion, seems kinda unsafe.  Having to stand in
front of the vehicle holding down the lever.

Another ??, my selector and motor arms have the slots for the remote cables,
but these where never fitted.  Are they still available some where?

TIA
Pete

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:13:15 -0400
Subject: More zenith woes

Larry Smith  Lodelane@aol.com wrote:

>It especially enjoyed flooding when you made a sharp corner, as when
>pulling out into traffic.  >8^(

Classic symptom.  On the newer Zeniths, the brass of the carb float is
softer than the spindle, and hence the shaft wears eliptical holes in the
float arm.  When you turn in one direction, but not the other, the float
gets out of kilter and floods the carb.  The solution is to get a float out
of an old Zenith.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Stude, Herman L." <HERMANS@krts.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:22:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch

Peter;

On my Koenig the clutch lever travels about 5-6 inches and usually stays
engaged.  My drive lever however stays in reverse but not forward.   So
sometimes I sit on the wing with a hand on each lever.  Never have
gotten inside to check out the guts.  I've also got the installation
instructions that show how to use the cables, adjust the clutch etc. 
I'm happy to fax/mail to you.  I did a little research when I first got
this beast and I'm told that the only parts that are still available are
the clutches made by Rockford.

Herman

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:17:44 -1000
Subject: Re: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch

>My drive lever however stays in reverse but not forward.
Sounds like you have half of my problem

>I've also got the installation
>instructions that show how to use the cables, adjust the clutch etc.

Thanks, I've got a copy of the same I believe.  I wonder if adjusting the
clutch will allow more travel
Pete

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:56:13 -0300
Subject: Re: home made wax oil

Peter Hope wrote:
> I never realised that wax would mix with oil.  Hmm maybe thats water I was
> thinking about.
> A couple years back I worked at a place that got some stuff from Kendel Oil.
> It was a semi opaque light yellow in color.  About the consistancy of 90w.
> Spray it on with gun we got from eastwood.  After a couple of days the stuff
> would harden to a wax consistancy.  After this it was not sticky to the
> touch, and if small scrathes appeared it kinda bled back together.  The
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> it. hehe
> Is your concoction similar John?  And does it need to be reapllied every
 Yes it does flow back together and it will also creep into cracks and
crevices. I do put it on each year, at that cost it seems silly not to.
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 17:02:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Real home made wax oil...

Adams, Bill wrote:
> Wow,I hadn't thought of that. Up til now I have been tossing all the
> Q-tips I use in my ears after showering in a bucket and rendering the
> mass out once a year.

   If you q tipped BEFORE the shower you could improve the yield of ear
wax to the point of rendering every 6 months.
  I had thought of this mixture and was considering using baby oil as
the base but was unable find to a reliable source of babies. :-)

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From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:10:21 EDT
Subject: Soft Top Care.

Put it somewhere so the mice won't find it, wrapped in plastic.  A friend had
a car cover that was placed in a corner, within two weeks it had 3 inch holes
in it. I'd hate to see a good set of canvas go to the dump.
Steve F
69 SIIA 88

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From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:10:27 EDT
Subject:  Engine problem

Alan; Also check for anything trapped in the exhaust pipe, something in there
will allow the engine to run up to the point where the exhuast cant escape,
then it starts to die. When you let off the gas it will run fine again.
Steve F
69 SIIA 88

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:17:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Real home made wax oil...

Perhaps if we pooled our resources, we could come up with enough to do a 
couple of trucks at the same time.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:29:00 EDT
Subject: ATTN: LEESBURG TRAILS!

Saturday , 3 of us went to Leesburg Reservoir to do some
trails...........HOWEVER it seems that the county closed off access to the
trails(bob kelly....this includes "YOUR" mud pit). We were not going to let a
couple of dozen posts and chains stop us from our fun..............so my D-90,
Stu`s Disco, Rob`s Dodge Ram(new) took to the shore line since the water level
was probably 20ft below normal, which gave us the chance to do some rock
climbing. The Ram didn`t fair to well though as it was stuck in lake mud after
30 seconds on the trail. I tugged him free, unhooked only to look back to see
him stuck AGAIN! Thought to myself "this is not good" . We then went to toward
to spillway to go out through one of the shoreline fishing spots to the
trails. After going through the gate marked "TRESPASSERS WILL BE PROSECUTED TO
THE FULLEST EXTENT OF THE LAW" we finally started trail riding. This proved to
be uneventful until we encountered one of the MANY DIRT/CONCRETE MOUNDS that
had been placed EVERYWHERE. I took the D-90 over with no problems, but the RAM
was another story. As he sat there teeter/tottering , a tow strap was used to
pull him off , causing a couple of small dents to the underside under the
door.(OUCH) The Disco was flawless as Stu navigated the mound with spotting
from me. (great job STU) . Rob later told me that he thought of my Disco as a
"FOO- FOO" suv , but now had a new respect for them.
We had Virginia State Police hovering over us at one point in a
helicopter.(lucky for us they have Explorers/Blazers) so we had no problem
(they didn`t even bother us).
We then went toward the creek crossing , which they had closed with a mound of
dirt that they scooped from in front of another trail. After this one we
decided to head back . We met up with a Gold colored Disco and chatted to them
for a while, until we watched a 4runner and a Honda CRV attempt the rocks.
Well needless to say that they finally parked the CRV and went on in the
toyota. (alone no less)
So to all of you , who were thinking of doing this, I think that the extra
drive time to GW national forest is a good investment of time.

RGDS, Rick Valentino
`63 SIIa 88" 
`65 SIIa 88" 
`94 D-90 Soft top
`96 Disco sd 5pd

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:29:34 -0700
Subject: Re: quaife site

Bob and Sue Bernard wrote:

> Hi Jim,
> I couldn't see the price info, What am I missing. It only shows an index of
> price lists.
> Bob B

 The price list said: 110 $594    RR $420   Rover SDI/TR8 $438
1996 prices, and they might be pounds instead of dollars as it doesn't
specify.
Jim Hall

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:41:28 -0700
Subject: RE: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch

Don't know if it will help you much, but there is a fairly clear close up
picture of a buddy of mine's Koening winch mounted on his '69 88 inch SIIA.
Winch works great!

See it at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/suswinch.jpg

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC  Canada
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:44:41 -0700
Subject: Re: ATTN: LEESBURG TRAILS!

RykRover@aol.com wrote:
> Saturday , 3 of us went to Leesburg Reservoir to do some
> trails...........HOWEVER it seems that the county closed off access to the
> trails(bob kelly....this includes "YOUR" mud pit). We were not going to let a
> couple of dozen posts and chains stop us from our fun.........
> After going through the gate marked "TRESPASSERS WILL BE PROSECUTED TO
> THE FULLEST EXTENT OF THE LAW" we finally started trail riding. 

	Unfortunately this is the kind of thing that gets even more trails
closed, and gives Rover owners a bad name. If a trail is closed off,
KEEP OUT. We have enough people abusing the trails already. Let's not
give them one more reason to close all trails to 4wd's.

Jim Hall Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 15:14:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine problem

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:34:17 -0400
Subject: Engine problem

>2.25L engine - I just rebuilt it and installed it in Mr. Churchill. Starts
fine,
will idle all day. Sounds great.

>Put it up on the road and it pulls like a trouper in first, drop it in
second
and accelerate and about halfway up second gear it dies out. Declutch and
come
off the gas and it will recover, to do the same thing at approximately the
same
point.

If the engine is idling smoothly, and also running smoothly in first, this
sounds like more of a fuel problem than a spark problem.  Possible causes
are: fuel level too low in float bowl; worn-out or failing fuel pump that's
unable to supply sufficient pressure to keep float bowl full under higher
throttle settings; clogged fuel filter; reversed fuel filter;  partially
collapsed fuel line; blocked fuel tank vent(s).  There may also be a problem
with a gasket on the carburetor, but I would suspect a fuel flow problem
first.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 19:34:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine problem.

Got it straightened out - and it was the typical mess that Rover problems tend
to be. I seem to have gotten a load of very bad gasoline somewhere, as I found:

clogged fuel filter
clogged primary screen in tank
Cruddy orange fuel in the float bowl of the carburettor (and a  partially
clogged main jet)

In the meantime I blew out all the lines and found a marginal sealing washer at
the pump intake, and I swapped the pump for my spare (paranoid, me? - damn
straight!). The old pump is going to get a rebuild and cleanup before I use it
again.

What was happening was that there was enough flow to fill the bowl at idle, but
not enough to run him over that (especially with the bogged main jet). It's what
I expected to find, once I thought it out.

I need to be more careful where I buy my gas....

                         aj"Thanks to all!'r

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 20:25:46 EDT
Subject: Brake Solution or Why I Love RN

Hi all,

...the saga continues...when we left off, our intrepid Rover mechanic couldn't
lock the shoes against the drums with the snail cams.  It was suspected that
the springs on the adjustors had gone soft.

Well...
After to talking with AB, BP, DAP consulting the LRO list and the RN BBS, I
finally broke down and called Charlie at RN (the adjustors were purchased at
AB--aftermarket).

No one had heard of this happening.  Most had no suggestions other than "swap
the backing plates" or "replace the adjustors".

Charlie on the other hand, suggested putting a washer behind the current
washer to try to increase the tension in the adjustor.

Voila!!  The adjustors are taut and they easily lock the shoes against the
drums.

The classic 8 cent solution.

Nate

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From: "andrew r chorny" <achorny@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 20:34:11 -0400
Subject: Winch System for a 98 Disco

Does anyone have experience with a mounting system for a Warn M8274-50?
Thanks,
Andrew

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From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 21:41:33 EDT
Subject: steering wheels

Hi All,
I happen to have a older spoke-type Series steering wheel and want to know of
it can be used to replace the later plastic Series wheel.  I know the t/s
cancelling rub tube will not be usable, but haven't seen one of those little
rubber wheels survive the ages anyway.  Local club member fancys the wheel to
match the one on his Triumph.
Thanks,

Tom Bache
Avondale, PA
 P.S. Best wishes to all in Texas this week in the flood zone.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 15:56:59 -1000
Subject: Re: Soft Top Care.

>Put it somewhere so the mice won't find it, wrapped in plastic.  A friend

had
>a car cover that was placed in a corner, within two weeks it had 3 inch
holes
>in it. I'd hate to see a good set of canvas go to the dump.
>Steve F
>69 SIIA 88

Is there anything special to use to clean it?  The weather here is very wet
and some mold has started to form.  Want to clean and dry it before putting
in storage
Pete
70 SIIA 88

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:58:54 -0400
Subject: Re: LR for sale in Philly

How original is it? RHD or LHD? What are you asking?

David Cockey

Leger Marc-Andre wrote:

> My '71 Lightweight fully restored LR is for sale and is now in Philly.
> I'm
> selling it so I can put more 'stuff' on my D90 ! If anybody is
> interested in
> seeing it, I live Center City Philly and work on I-95 near the
> Penn-Delaware
> border.

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:27:36
Subject: Frame spec

> >good drawings in the factory repair manual, with quite a few measurements.
> >At least, in the SIII manual.
> Excellent.  Do you have a scanner by chance?

Yes, I do have a scanner and the original SIIA shop manuel 8^). I should be
getting my warranty replacement monitor by Friday (Oct.23). I can scan what
you need on Sat.So, what do you need? Reply direct if you want.

Jim  Wolf

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 20:29:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: steering wheels

At 09:41 PM 10/20/98 EDT, Tom Bache wrote:
>I happen to have a older spoke-type Series steering wheel and want to know of
>it can be used to replace the later plastic Series wheel.  I know the t/s
>cancelling rub tube will not be usable, but haven't seen one of those little
>rubber wheels survive the ages anyway.  Local club member fancys the wheel to
>match the one on his Triumph.

 I fancy it too, as it probably fits the Series 1.  Seems a
 shame to waste it on a Series III that probably would be
 happier with an original steering wheel.  But hey, what do
 I know?

-Michael

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:13:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Steering Wheels

The question was asked whether the "Banjo" spoked wheel will fit in
place of the plastic later type. Don't believe so-the spline patterns
are different.

Along same lines--what other Brit car uses the spline pattern as the
plastic spoke wheel? Saw the Info once whilst over in England, but lost
it over the years. My wheel is in good shape, but is too skinny, get
cramps trying to get a good grip on it. If I could find an after market
steering wheel same diameter (need the mechanical advantage it gives as
no power steering except "Armstrong") but thicker rim, all would be
happiness, the birds would go tweet, tweet etc. (it must be getting
late-I"m waxing poetic!!)

And before you ask-yes I should have the Banjo type wheel on mine-PO
changed the steering box , column etc.!! Why-who knows??

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

PS-I've tried the leather covers-need about 3 of them to get the
thickness I would like!!

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:06:50 -0700
Subject: RE: steering wheels

If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, with caveats! The
early spoke steering wheel fit onto an inner steering rod which goes
into the steering box. It also has two sets of slide on splines going
lengthwise down the shaft at the steering wheel end of the rod. The
two sets are seperated by a circumvential(sp?) groove which allows for
the bolt going through the back of the wire style (early) wheel. The
splines keep the steering wheel engaged to the rod rotationally, while
the bolt and grove keep the wheel from being pull off the shaft.
(There is also about a 1 inch difference in length between the two
shafts.

The newer wheel fits onto the same kind of splined shaft but only the
steering box end has the splines. The inch or so of the shaft closest
to the driver (you) is threaded and once the newer wheel engages the
splines a tightened down nut keeps the wheel from pulling off.

That said, it is probably possible to take a newer shaft to a machine
shop where they could fill in the threads by welding and align the new
to-be-cut splines with the lower ones. The machine shop could then
turn the shaft on a metal lathe and put the necessary groove in where
the wire wheel's bolt needs to go.

I've just gone through this thought exercise on my 59 SII. The old
shafts are nla so I would have had to go to the newer ugly plastic
wheel, get a used shaft, or go through the above machine shop route.
Fortunately, I contacted Wise Owl who had an old steering box
available (which I hope includes the shaft (true Ray???)

Sorry to be soooo long winded: not thinking particularly well these
days, and it was something I actually knew something about. Got a be
erudite when I get the chance ;>)))

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 19:07:01 -1000
Subject: Re: Frame spec

>So, what do you need? Reply direct if you want.
>Jim  Wolf

Diagrams for the 88"
Thanks
Pete

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:20:45 -0400
Subject: Re: steering wheels

Sure, you can use the older wheel - but you have to replace the column and box
to do it.

I did just the opposite when I put a Series III box in Mr. Churchill - needed
to, as the old IIa one was SHOT.

That's on the list for rebuild too...shoulda done it when I had the engine out.

                              ajr

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