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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:23:09 EDT
Subject: Re: 110/130 rim widths

In a message dated 10/18/98 5:48:53 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au writes:

 (disco 7.0")
 the 130s have the holes drilled around the circumfrence of the inner bit,
 the 110s don't
 
 are we talking different specs in the UK? >>

US-Spec 110's have 6.5 wheels without any holes drilled in them.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:34:17 -0400
Subject: Engine problem

OK, here's the skinny.

2.25L engine - I just rebuilt it and installed it in Mr. Churchill. Starts fine,
will idle all day. Sounds great.

Put it up on the road and it pulls like a trouper in first, drop it in second
and accelerate and about halfway up second gear it dies out. Declutch and come
off the gas and it will recover, to do the same thing at approximately the same
point.

Third? Forget it....unhappy.

The dizzy is the one that came off my old engine and was working fine there,
ditto with the fuel pump and carburettor. I just put in 4 new plugs (Autolite -
I had them in stock), and the ignition wires and the like are all from the
original engine (which was running OK when removed).

Any good ieas on this one? I need to get Mr. C back on the road - the wife is
getting annoyed at my constantly driving her Austin-Healey...

                         ajr

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:42:03 -0400
Subject: SIIa Lightweight

Just got in Philly last night... I put my Lightweight on a trailer and
pulled it from Montreal to Philly with my D90. It looked really cool on I-87
then on I-287 and finally on the NJ Thruway. 500 miles ! The D90 had some
issues with the Adirondacs... but it came thru like a champion !

Now all I need is a place to get it dirty ! Does anyone know of a place to
take both my LR's no further than 1 hour from center-city Philadelphia ?

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:02:14 +0100
Subject: Can't prime my fuel pump

Does any one know what would prevent the the fuel pump from priming. There 
are two air vents on my diesel pump the haynes manual states "that if the 
system has been allowed to be completely drained the system should be 
primed using the hand primer and priming should be continued until bubble 
free fuel emerges from both bleed holes"  On mine it does'nt appear from 
the left hand one.
Any Ideas

Martin Lough
Frank W. Murphy Ltd
Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext. 245)
Fax: +44 1722 410088
Email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

Visit our website at: http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:18:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine problem

In a message dated 10/19/98 7:35:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

<< The dizzy is the one that came off my old engine and was working fine
there,
 ditto with the fuel pump and carburettor. >>

Hi Alan,

Couple of thoughts come to mind...

1.  Check dizzy and cap.  Mine was working fine in the old motor, went to
install it Sunday and found one cap spring broken off.

2.  Any chance there's an air leak in the fuel line?  (affected more under
hard work)

3.  Vacuum problem.

4.  Carb has junk in one of the channels that open under full throttle

That's all I can think of off the top.

Nate

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:31:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Series III rub removal

Hello Gerold,

If you are this far the rest is easy.

Depending on the exactness off your framedimensions, the next should 
solve your problems,

Plan A:

Lift the front of the tub, by doing this the boltcontraption will 
tilt just enough so that you can slide the out, easys to do if you 
slide some wooden wedges between the frame and the tub.

Plan B:

Go to the rear of the tub, and lift the tub above the 
attachment points on the rear of the frame, pull the tub rearward of 
and free of the front attachments.

If this won't work, check if you have freed it on all the others like 
fuel filler hose, wiring, earth straps etc.

Success,

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 98 08:35:45 -0500
Subject: Re: My new project 

pete sez...

>After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over instead 
>of just a front quarter replacement.  The right side of the rear 
>crossmember is about .5 inches further back then the left.  The frame 
>resembles a diamond instead of a rectangle 

there are shops that have equipment to fix such problems. end of story. you 
*don't need to replace it. hell, you might not even need to take the body 
off...

>Also the front wheels are pointing in two different directions (toed out, 
>not in)  ...

check the tie rods, see if it can be adjusted to the correct setting. these 
parts are cheap and readily available. 

>And how can I check to see if the steering arm on the bottom of the swivel 
>ball it self is bent? 

not sure, but you could compare it to a new one. send it back if its not. 
try to find a parts car that you can get some parts off of. If you look 
around on the 'net you will find people that have such things available. 
write to them.

later
dave

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 8:48:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Can't prime my fuel pump

I would speculate that there is a hole in the diaphragm.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 8:52:54 -0400
Subject: Re: SIIa Lightweight

If you don't mind driving a little more, you can take them to my house. 
Just leave the keys in the milkman's box by the front steps.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:59:52 EDT
Subject: Re: What is Running in Oil?

<<What is Running in Oil?>>

That's when you are running-in-place where a rover once parked.

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:13:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine problem

Al,

How long had the previous engine been sitting?  I just swapped everything from
an original engine to a Turner.  The stuff had been sitting for a while.  Had
the same/similar symptoms as you.  Turned out that everything in the Zenith
had dried out/dry rotted, and was causing the problem.  It especially enjoyed
flooding when you made a sharp corner, as when pulling out into traffic.  >8^(

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:18:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Alternator not Alternating

Ian Harding wrote:
> I have a Rover that was "rebuilt" by an amateur.  The alternator doesn;t
> charge.  I understand that a typical alternator has 3 wires going to it, the
> big one (output) and two little ones, one to the meter or idiot light, the
> other to the key (the "field" wire, which tells the alternator to
> alternate.)  My Rover only has two wires, a big one and a little one.  The
> little one is brown with a yellow line.  The idiot light never did work.
> How can I figure out what's going on here, and am I supposed to have 3
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> How can I figure out what's going on here, and am I supposed to have 3
> wires?  There is a place for another wire on the plug...
It doesn't sound promising Ian, You can check to see if the dash light
is OK by pulling the plug from the Alternator and grounding the small
wire and turning the ignition on. It should then light, if not then
replace the bulb and see it charging happens. If the light is on then
take the alternator to a professional auto electrical rebuilder or trade
it for a rebuilt one. It is hard to tell wiyh out running some test on
the opened alternator what the amateur messed up.
    John and Muddy

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:23:39 +1000
Subject: DIFF Lockers

Kirk Hillman wrote:
>BTW, I DID hear a while ago from a guy around here, in Canada, that
>he knew of a company in Oz that made a completely different product that
>fit the rover diff.  He said it almost in passing, but never mentioned
>who the company was.  Any thoughts?

There are at least three Oz manufacturers of locking diffs for Rovers, ARB
of course, Maxi-Drive (Mal Storey - see the story of his 4 wheel steer car
in a recent LRW) and Jack MacNamara.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
Webmaster Hillman Owners Club of Australia

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:19:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

In a message dated 10/18/98 10:01:19 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
car4doc@concentric.net writes:

<< Hi Charles,
  Well if Pete can use your frame section to save/repair his LR  then I
 well yield.  My 4X6 is a fanciful dream right now. >>

4x6 is indeed a dream; what are you using there, 2 virtual tyres? (4 driven by
6, just doesn't make sense)

;-)

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:25:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Can't prime my fuel pump

In a message dated 10/19/98 7:43:26 AM SA Pacific Standard Time,
badams@usia.gov writes:

 I would speculate that there is a hole in the diaphragm. >>

So said the new father...  ;-)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:27:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine problem

Larry,

The previous engine hadn't been sitting at all - it's a short block that I just
re-did. The top end is all off my old motor - though  it did sit for 3 or 4 days
empty while I fiddled about swapping the block.

I'm going to replace the plugs and open/check the carb before I do anything
else. I did notice that, after running it up, the carb had fuel percolating down
the carb throat. Stuck float maybe?

               aj"Ideas welcome"r

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:28:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine problem

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> OK, here's the skinny.
> 2.25L engine - I just rebuilt it and installed it in Mr. Churchill. Starts 
fine,
> will idle all day. Sounds great.
> Put it up on the road and it pulls like a trouper in first, drop it in second
> and accelerate and about halfway up second gear it dies out. Declutch and come
> off the gas and it will recover, to do the same thing at approximately the 
same

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Any good ieas on this one? I need to get Mr. C back on the road - the wife is
> getting annoyed at my constantly driving her Austin-Healey...
Sounds very fuelish to me. Give the carb a good clean, bits of dirt
could have been introduced during the rebuild. like wise the fuel
filter.
   John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:34:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Can't prime my fuel pump

Martin Lough wrote:
> Does any one know what would prevent the the fuel pump from priming. There
> are two air vents on my diesel pump the haynes manual states "that if the
> system has been allowed to be completely drained the system should be
> primed using the hand primer and priming should be continued until bubble
> free fuel emerges from both bleed holes"  On mine it does'nt appear from
> the left hand one.

 Try giving the engine a few turns on the starter with the bleeder open
then do the whole bleeding (no pun intended) operation again. The same
procedure is used on many farm tractors.
    John and Muddy

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 19 Oct 1998 15:57:05 +0200
Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams

"Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> writes:

> >good drawings in the factory repair manual, with quite a few measurements.
> >At least, in the SIII manual.
> Excellent.  Do you have a scanner by chance?

Err... not at hand, no. I'll see what I can do, though. Which weelbase?

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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=_NextPart_000_01BDFB2F.469BEB20" ]
From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 17:08:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Exhaust

Aloha Everyone
I have been busy doing some work on another vehicle, trying to get it =
ready
to pass its safety inspection and as I was working on the exhaust, my =
mind
started wondering.
What I am curious about is weather or not a free flow design exhaust =
system
would be benificial on a series rover?
I have seen headers in the parts catalogs, and a larger diameter pipe =
and
free flow muffler would be easy to source.  The reason I am asking is I =
was
always under the impression that this mod would effect top end speed.  =
Would
it improve the low end torgue and throttle response on the 2.25 also?
Any one out there done any extensive exhaust remod?
TIA
Pete

Pete,

I was thinking about the same thing last summer.  When I had the Rhino =
in for a new flange gasket ( Rhino is header equiped ) the exhaust guy =
recommended that if I want to keep the low end torque that I should =
leave the pipes the same diameter.  His explainations was that opening =
it up will indeed create better HP and the opposite on Torque.

John Putnam
Rhino - '70 SWB SIIa
Forest Grove, Oregon

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:47:54 -0400
Subject: Glue

James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>

>I KNOW this is the place for this answer. Now, the question. I want to glue
>several AL.panels togather for a thicker plate. What would be the BEST,
>LONGEST lasting glue to use? I have a number of 1/8" panels and would like
>to make a couple of thicker panels out of them for use on "Vicky".

Going for composite armor, eh Jim?  Might be quite sound-deadening.  After
rebuilding a '57 mahogany-hulled sloop and going through three 5 gallon
buckets of the stuff, the answer would be West System epoxy.  Great stuff
to work with.  (Just make sure you have plenty of gloves and acetone or
alcohol to clean up.) They market a variety of thickeners and hardeners
(ones for hot days, others for cool).  While any boat place sells the
stuff, the best prices are at Eastern Burlap on 25th St between Hampton and
Colley, Jim, just on the Norfolk side of the mid-town tunnel.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 98 08:00:41 -0700
Subject: Re: front diff locks

>I'll appologise befor I start to anyone that has a limitted slip diff in
>the front  :-)

No need to appologise as long as we are looking for better ways to use 
our cars & not making personal attacks.

;>if you want to go around corners you need to be able to unlock the front
;>diff, in really slippery stuff you will be able to steer with it locked 
but
;>it will drag one wheel around and dramatically increase your circle - A
;>limitted slip diff does not give you the option of turning it off for 
this
;>purpose - one that you positively engage/disengage as you need it is 
much
;>better

I too have heard some stories about limited slips on the front engaging 
and causing steering problems or the locked end to bounce sideways when 
wheels are hopping.  I have been warned that if I were going to put a 
limited slip on one end only that I should mount it on the rear.  I had 
heard good things about Quafes and had an opportunity to purchase a Quafe 
for the Rover diff at a very attractive price.  Having a Salisbury on the 
rear, the front was the only place I had to mount it.  Based upon the 
stories that I have heard I was worried about handling problems.  I spent 
some time carefully testing the diff under controlled and varied 
conditions

In the past year I have driven 4WD in clay, rivers, deep sand, slip rock, 
dry dirt & gravel, snow, regular mud and other surfaces.  The Quafe 
design engages and disengages gradually.  I can honestly say that I have 
never felt the diff engage or disengage nor have I felt any difference in 
steering.  This includes working front wheels in clay/mud/deep sand to 
get the edges of the tyres to bite the edges of ruts.  The only way I 
know that it is there and working is that I don't get stuck in places 
where I used to and my front end does a better job of going where I point 
it on slick surfaces.

I find myself thinking that there may be differences in limited slip 
designs that affect how positively the diff locks up.  My personal 
experiences are very different from some of the stories that I have heard 
and I suspect the differences may be based upon differences in diff 
design.

These are my experiences & observations

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:06:28 -0700
Subject: Re[2]: Boston area Roverisms and glow plug timers.

     
Re: Timed heat:
     
There's a simple way to do this  - it's called a timed relay. If you take a look
in any good electronics parts catalogue you'll find 'em - most are even 
adjustable as to the time period that you want.
     
They're also available in 12 and 24 volt versions - not sure what you're putting
it in...
     
               ajr/Boston, MA.
     
     Thanks, I'll look into it. Any suppliers that have web sites that your 
     aware of?
     
     tew

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:43:46 -0300
Subject: Re: front diff locks

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> >I'll appologise befor I start to anyone that has a limitted slip diff in
> >the front  :-)
> No need to appologise as long as we are looking for better ways to use
> our cars & not making personal attacks.
> ;>if you want to go around corners you need to be able to unlock the front
> ;>diff, in really slippery stuff you will be able to steer with it locked
> but
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 42 lines)]
> and I suspect the differences may be based upon differences in diff
> design.
 TeriAnn, The Quaife design is an unusual design based on the principal
that a worn gear can't be driven backward. It is difficult to describe
but is very effective. There are no clutches or dogs to engage so you
will never feel it engage as it does'nt engage in the accepted sense.
I visited the factory about 10 years ago and was very impressed. They
were building a 6 speed 4x4 transmission for a Ford Escort rally car at 
the time for a customer who must have had a boat load of cash. Their
quality control and attention to detail is second to none.
      John and Muddy

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:00:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine problem

Throttle linkage?

At 07:34 AM 10/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, here's the skinny.
>2.25L engine - I just rebuilt it and installed it in Mr. Churchill. Starts

fine,
>will idle all day. Sounds great.
>Put it up on the road and it pulls like a trouper in first, drop it in second
>and accelerate and about halfway up second gear it dies out. Declutch and

come
>off the gas and it will recover, to do the same thing at approximately the
same

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From: "Peeler, Gilbert W" <Gilbert.W.Peeler@WGP.TWC.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:15:09 -0500
Subject: Alpine Windows Wanted

Hi All-
I am presently adding station wagon side window panels to my SIIA 88
hardtop. I would like to install alpine windows in the roof while the whole
thing is disassembled. Does anyone have any decent alpine window glass
they'd like to sell reasonably?
Thanks,
Wayne Peeler
Appomattox, Va.

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:34:26 -0400
Subject: OFF to TEXAS for a WEEk

Signing of to go to user conference in Dallas. Looks like the weather there
will be pretty chilly and WET!!

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard           Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc)
95 Discovery V8i (Rusty II)        cdillard@aholdusa.com
55 Series I    (???)                     Greenville, SC USA
55 Series I (The Green Hornet)
SoLaRos #136
  _________
  |_|_|_|_|
 {|__|__ \
 {|__|__|__\___
  |_ - ____ - _|}
    (_)    (_)

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Boston area Roverisms and glow plug timers.

> Thanks, I'll look into it. Any suppliers that have web sites that your
> aware of?

Newark... www.newark.com... not sure of the extent of their
online catalog... nevermind, though, send off for the real one.
it's huge... more parts that you could dream existed. It's sure
to get your wheels turning as you flip through, going... hey, I
could use that, and that, and that, and make this, and put
it in that...

 -Scott  

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 06:49:55 -1000
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

>Anybody interested that can take it away - $50.00 can have it,

I was hoping there was more of it.
I have decided to replace the whole frame anyway.  Thanks

>There's about 6 or 7 pickups lurking about locally that I know of...what
color
>was it? Diesel? Petrol? I may know who owns it.

I believe it was light blue, faded.  It was a drive by sighting, we were on
our way up to Ventura.  In the past two years I guess I have spent a total
of 2 months in the area, SO family is on Pt Dume.  I have seen probably 10
88's, bunches of Defenders, but this was the first LWB Series Vehicle I have
seen in the area.

Next time we come home I will email you and maybe I can look at your other
spare bits.

Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:09:58 -1000
Subject: Re: My new project 

>pete sez...
>>After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over

instead
>>of just a front quarter replacement.  The right side of the rear
>>crossmember is about .5 inches further back then the left.  The frame
>>resembles a diamond instead of a rectangle

>there are shops that have equipment to fix such problems. end of story. you
>*don't need to replace it. hell, you might not even need to take the body
>off...

I spent a good deal of time under the vehicle yesterday measuring the frame.
The front 3' on the right hand side resembles a "w" from the accident.  Some
of the welds on the box have split.  At the points of the "w" the box has
collapsed on it self.  This thing may be straightened but would need a lot
of reinforcing after, and I am not sure if I would ever feel like it was
100% again.

Using some diagrams with the measurements of the critical stuff on the frame
as well as some from the actual vehicle, I have done up a set of 1-1/2 scale
plans.  I am thinking of making the side railes from 3x6x3/16 tubing.  Make
a jig that will keep them parralell to each other and attach the xmembers
and out riggers.  It appears that most of the xmembers can be saved from the
tranny back.  The front two ???.  At least the front one in easy to make.
May need to get the one under the engine replaced.  All the out riggers look
great.  Not sure exactly how much the stock frame set up weighs, but I can't
see this adding more then 100-150 lbs to the vehicle, and its all 'good' as
far as COG is concerned.

Doing this will also allow me to build in points for a roll bar/cage and
rock rails.  I am going to document the whole process (write/photo/some
video) and will let everyone know when things get posted to the web.

I am lucky in that we have a big two car garage and the floor is actually
level and smooth.  I am going to do a full scale layout diagram on the floor
and build the jig directly on this.  As long as I ensure the jig is level
and square the rest will be also.

Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:12:53 -1000
Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams

>Err... not at hand, no. I'll see what I can do, though. Which weelbase?

88"
if you are not able to send them I understand.  But would love to have
another reference to compare with what I already have.
Pete

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:35:46 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: My new project  

>I spent a good deal of time under the vehicle yesterday measuring the 
>frame. The front 3' on the right hand side resembles a "w" from the 
>accident.  Some of the welds on the box have split.  At the points of the 
>"w" the box has collapsed on it self.  This thing may be straightened but 
>would need a lot of reinforcing after, and I am not sure if I would ever 
>feel like it was 100% again.

spend your time cutting side pieces an rebuild the 3' of damaged rail.
make a pattern form the good side. 

>Using some diagrams with the measurements of the critical stuff on the 
>frame as well as some from the actual vehicle, I have done up a set of 
>1-1/2 scale plans.  I am thinking of making the side railes from 3x6x3/16 
>tubing. 

there's a reason why the existing raila are shaped the way they are. not 
straight tubing.
what about spring hangers, etc. these are going to be labor intensive to remove 
& reattach. think about what you are doing. from the sound of it your skill 
level would allow you to fix this one up. don't waste a bunch of time  makingt 
it "better". roll bar points? attach them to the current out riggers. its only 
mild steel, and its already in the right place.

you are opening a can o' worms that just aint worth it...

later
dave

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:55:17 -0700
Subject: Re: front diff locks

john cranfield wrote:
=  TeriAnn, The Quaife design is an unusual design based on the
principal
= that a worn gear can't be driven backward. It is difficult to describe
= but is very effective. There are no clutches or dogs to engage so you
= will never feel it engage as it does'nt engage in the accepted sense.
 
I found a web site that explains it and has a drawing, as well as 1996
prices. Better than no prices at all.  
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/Quaife.html

Jim Hall 
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:20:07 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: My new project

In a message dated 10/19/98 1:20:39 PM, you wrote:

<<I am lucky in that we have a big two car garage and the floor is actually
level and smooth.  I am going to do a full scale layout diagram on the floor
and build the jig directly on this.  As long as I ensure the jig is level
and square the rest will be also.>>

And hopefully you will end up with a nice square rover that sits level. 

Sorry, couldn't resist it.

--pat.

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:21:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

In a message dated 98-10-19 12:56:31 EDT, you write:

<< I believe it was light blue, faded.  It was a drive by sighting, we were on
 our way up to Ventura.  In the past two years I guess I have spent a total
 of 2 months in the area, SO family is on Pt Dume.  I have seen probably 10
 88's, bunches of Defenders, but this was the first LWB Series Vehicle I have
 seen in the area.
 >>

Was it light blue as in baby blue, or marine blue?

There is a guy in that area, that has a 109 pickup, though I don't know
exactly what color it is: I think it's a NATO truck (the same guy that once
owned the truck that my chassis pieces came from, along with the truck that
the surviving pieces went onto), but I don't know. I do know, that he was
going to do a diesel conversion - if it's the same guy.

If it's light blue, as in baby blue, there is a Series 1 107 pickup that used
to be that color, (it's a bit faded: can't tell if it's blue, or grey!)
running around here somewhere...could be it, too.

My 109 is flat desert sand, with a white roof panel, and rhd (diesel), and I
have a "sister" truck in Twentynine Palms, that's a bit lighter shade, and has
a cab/ 3/4 canvas, and it's petrol. There was a black one at Woodley that won
best of show (that I've never seen before), there's Peters NATO in Venice
(still camo green), a Series 3 diesel pickup (grey) in the Arcadia area, a
desert pink in Chino (Lawrence, from BP).

Gee...that's 8 that I know of, all in the L.A. area!

...make that 12: Jim (former owner of BP) is still restoring his 109 NATO
(marine blue), and there's the yellow 107 that's been for sale forever in
Venice, and last June, I passed a marine blue 109 on Hollywood Bl., and,
there's a guy at the L.A. Air Force Base, that has a dark green 109 - ALL
these trucks are pickups! I could call the one that was pieced together number
13, but it was sold, and is no longer in California.

Now, if only we could get all these trucks at one meet!

Charles
P.S. I know of another diesel 109 pickup in the Death Valley area! (number 14)

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:22:20 -1000
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My new project  

>spend your time cutting side pieces an rebuild the 3' of damaged rail.
>make a pattern form the good side.

Good idea

>there's a reason why the existing raila are shaped the way they are. not
>straight tubing.

Yes, mine will follow the bends in the original, not straight front to rear.

>what about spring hangers, etc. these are going to be labor intensive to
remove
>& reattach.

Will make my own.  Have done so before.  Plus IF I decide to do it, very
very easy to add 2" here for a lift.

I have not made up my mind yet.  Am leaning towards the build it myself
idea.  Need to strip off the body so I can see exactly what I have to work
with.
But I am very interested in others opinions and thoguths on the matter.
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:28:36 -1000
Subject: Soft Top Care.

After I remove my soft top, any ideas on cleaning and protecting and placing
in storage?
It will be about a year I figure before it is put back on.
TIA
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:44:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Question

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:18:22 EDT
Subject: Brake Question

>Ok, I'm stumped.  I have both rear drums off.  Every thing is assembled
correctly: cam adjustors are with the correct spacers and such, both wheel
cylinders move correctly.  

>How come I can't get the adjustor to lock against the drums?  The drums are
new (2 years ago) as are the wheel cylinders, cams, shoes and springs.  I
have
good braking and the adjustors do move the shoes, just not much until the
top
of the cam.  I can notice the difference with the slightest of pressure on
the
brake pedal (then they lock) but I thought I should be able to lock them up
with just the snail cams.  Is this merely folklore?

No, I've always been able to move the shoes tight against the drum with the
snail cam.  In fact, that's how you're supposed to adjust the shoes: turn
the cam until the shoes touch the drum, then back off two "clicks" on the
cam.

Given the components involved, I would guess one or more of the following
conditions exists on your vehicle.  1) The drums are not within inside
diamter specs.  2) The shoe lining is too thin.  3) The shoes are too short-
the end that rides in the groove of the brake pistons was cut or cast too
far back.  4) The snail cam is worn down or too small to start with (both
unlikely but I suppose possible).

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:54:31 EDT
Subject: Looking for Distributor part:

Hi all,

I need one of the cap springs for the new style lucas distributors.  It cannot
be purchased separately and asside from a broken cap spring, the dizzy runs
fine.  
Anybody able to help with this one?

Nate

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 98 12:00:35 -0700
Subject: Re: front diff locks

> TeriAnn, The Quaife design is an unusual design based on the principal
>that a worn gear can't be driven backward. It is difficult to describe
>but is very effective. There are no clutches or dogs to engage so you
;>will never feel it engage as it doesn't engage in the accepted sense.
;>I visited the factory about 10 years ago and was very impressed. They
;>were building a 6 speed 4x4 transmission for a Ford Escort rally car at 
;>the time for a customer who must have had a boat load of cash. Their
;>quality control and attention to detail is second to none.
;>      John and Muddy

I really don't know anything about how they work.  I just know that Quafe 
seems to be highly regarded and Rear End Specialties, the company who set 
it up in the carrier for me said that they were real impressed with the 
design and extensive use of forged steel in places where other 
manufacturers settle for cast.  And after a year's experience I'm real 
pleased with how it works on the front of my car.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 20:25:07 +0100
Subject: FUN!

Hi everyone!

I had lots of fun yesterday here in sunny Northampton...perfect weather for
confusing the old neighbours....it was just 11 degrees C out, perfect!

I had great fun removing a sill to batter it back into shape (why does the
last bolt always REFUSE to move?!). The major fun part was re-positioning
the right wing, I spent 4 hours getting 5 bolts undone!!! (Did they weld
them on? I guess 20 years of not being attacked by a spanner makes them
forget what they are for!). Anyway, the neighbours thought the LR was
broken, what with one sill and a whole wing being removed, upon which my
wife proclaimed - 'It's his meccano set - there's nothing wrong with it,
just the wing was about 2 cm's lower than the other!! Thats why I let him
have it, it keeps him out of the house!'...charming eh?!

They are still baffled.......

Neil

Series III 109" 1978.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:33:40 -1000
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

>If it's light blue, as in baby blue, there is a Series 1 107 pickup that
used
>to be that color, (it's a bit faded: can't tell if it's blue, or grey!)

That's the one I saw.

>have a "sister" truck in Twentynine Palms, that's a bit lighter shade,

Interesting.  SO's parents just moved to Palm Desert.
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:36:31 +0200
Subject: Chassis rebuild

Hi this may have been covered in previous postings, but plse bear with me.

I am about to do a complete overhaul on my SI chassis.
Do I:
1. Fix the problems I can see then sandblast and galvanise it and hope there
is no more problems. Not my first choice.

2. Sandblast it, then fix the problems and then galvanise it.
How do I protect it in the interim?? I live on the coast and concrete
eventually rusts to death here, so it is critical that I reduce this risk.
Do I re-sandblast the chassis again before priming/galvanising/painting?
Whatever I use for interim protection must be clear so that I can inspect
the chassis carefully.

3. Is galvanising the best thing to do?

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'51-52 SI 80"

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 17:03:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Chassis rebuild

If one may assume that the chassis has been stripped of bodywork, the 
easiest solution involves not a sandblaster, but a 4" angle grinder and a 
wire cup and wheel. If there are places that require rust removal, the 
wire wheel will do just as zippy a job of getting rid of it as any 
sandblaster, and far more gently with less mess. You can paint on a coat 
of rust converter, POR-15, black enamel or whatever your pleasure as you 
go. This has several advantages, not the least of which is that you keep 
the frame coated with something at all times and only work on the area 
that you can complete within a given work period.
Galvanizing only works well on a brand-new frame. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 17:11:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Soft Top Care.

 I would probably wait on doing any kind of treatment until you are ready 
to put it back in service. Just clean it with a dry scrubbrush to get the 
dirt off, fold it, and bag it so that mice don't get in and chew it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Ketil Oftedahl <ketil.oftedahl@datapoint.no>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:51:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams

Drawings and dimensions for SIII 88" and 109" can be found at :
http://home.c2i.net/ketil.oftedahl/LRtech/S3/s3frames.html

Ketil

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:02:53 -1000
Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams

Thanks.
Was hoping to find something else.  Seems that all the manuals have that
same diagram.  Thanks again
Pete

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From: pcosmides@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:05:10 EDT
Subject: QUESTION

Greetings,
I would like to subscribe to the leaf spring list, and receive the
mailings, however I only have e-mail access...NOT internet.  Is this
possible??
If so, I will get back to you with a new E-mail address, as I do not wish
to use this current one.
Thanks
Pete

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:11:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Looking for Distributor part:

>cap springs?

You mean the clip that holds down the cap?  I lost one, got a replacement
off some MG - don't know which year.  PITA - I know!!  Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:20:26 -0400
Subject: alpine window glass

w.peeler, if you still need the glass and rubber seals contact me 
dieselbob@erols.com 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:20:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Looking for Distributor part:

I guess you can't ask the local distributor distributor whether he distributes
distibutor parts??  ;-)

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 16:46:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Chassis rebuild

Galvanize it. We built five 109s here for a wilderness expedition company
ten years ago and galvanized all the frames. Not a bit of rust since. We
did all the welding repair work first and then took them to a company
called "Redistrip" who chemically stripped off all the old paint and rust
inside and out before they went for galvanizing. Others here in Vancouver
have done the same thing recently. Costs about $500 per frame and worth
every penny.  Ray Wood

----------
> From: Riaan Botes <riaanb@iafrica.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Chassis rebuild
> Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 12:36 PM
> Hi this may have been covered in previous postings, but plse bear with

me.
> I am about to do a complete overhaul on my SI chassis.
> Do I:
> 1. Fix the problems I can see then sandblast and galvanise it and hope
> Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 12:36 PM
there
> is no more problems. Not my first choice.
> 2. Sandblast it, then fix the problems and then galvanise it.
> How do I protect it in the interim?? I live on the coast and concrete
> eventually rusts to death here, so it is critical that I reduce this
> Hi this may have been covered in previous postings, but plse bear with
risk.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:33:01
Subject: spacers

>Can't remember what I did to get them back on: either pressed them on
>at the machine shop or did as you suggested: heat and freeze
>appropriate parts.

I used a piece of pvc pipe the correct dia. used cv axle grease and just
the right size hammer. All worked very well.

Jim Wolf

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 20:18:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

In a message dated 98-10-19 15:40:28 EDT, you write:

<< have a "sister" truck in Twentynine Palms, that's a bit lighter shade,
 Interesting.  SO's parents just moved to Palm Desert.
 Pete >>

Maybe one day you'll see it driving around. Don't remember the guys name, but
he's stationed at the Marine base there. Last time I saw him, he was carrying
a canoe on the top of the truck, on a special rack he had built!

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 20:51:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Engine problem

Have you checked the vacumn advance? What about the distributor off by
a tooth? Have you checked the static advance and possibly dynamic
strobe timing? Something may have gotten into the gas line fouling the
bowl/float. Also, when you rebuilt did you check tolerances etc: it
just may need to find its groove. I hope you prelubed everything as
you put things together. I would definitely check the timing. Check
the plugs to see how they look: if very sooty, then you may be too
rich. Many say Autolites aren't that good.

HTH,

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:17:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Chassis rebuild

Bill, I do not agree that,

>"only works well on a brand-new frame."

If you want to invest the amount of work and cost it takes,
it can be done.

The critical parts are the inside of the frame, but these can be 
reached for sandblasting by drilling large holes front and aft, 
something like two inches would do.
It would take a specialized firm to do the depainting by fluids, or 
sandblasting. (sandblasting and pipe cleaning firm)

The acid bath before galvanizing would take care of the rust.

I decided against this path because the cost would add up to 
something like 500 $.
 

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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