1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: Grant Whiley <whiley@iafrica.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 14:33:29 +0200 Subject: Re: Tyre Type and mud - Northern Tanzania This should answer all your questions - in January this year I just happened to find myself travelling in a Land Rover Discovery Tdi in Northern Tanzania en route to Kilimanjaro, Ngorogoro and Serengeti. This was the sencond part of our trip the previous 5 weeks we travelled in Zambia, Malawi and Southern Tanzania. There is a long tale of woe why our SIII '74 stayed in Cape Town, so we missed-out the bottom half of our trip ie. Nambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique (we will maybe be doing that bit in Nov - Jan this year) - That is another story. Anyway back to the choice of tyres: The catch was that the area (Northern TZ) was experiencing the worst rains and flooding in many many years, we had a couple of close calls - comming around a corner and finding no road there at all - almost sliding off a mountain side... The other thing is that the soil is very fine powder, from the past volcanic activity, which means that when it rains it turns to unpredictable slush. There are a couple lessons I learnt: 1 - Definately watch what the locals are doing, where they are driving, what they are driving (Landies), what powers the car (diesel) and most importantly where you must not drive. 2 - When you see that the local village industry is chasis welding and tyre repair and that at the police check point the officer says "May God be with you" you should take a subtle hint of what lies ahead. We were lucky enough to follow a convoy of Defender's from a local tour company, for the worst section of the trip - learned a couple of useful tips. 3 - Drive a diesel Landy (nothing else quite makes the grade - except I suppose the petrol Pajero stuck up to bonnet level in a river we just cruised through). The other reason is that the diesel engine doesn't seem to mind having a little water and sand in it. 4 - Give yourself plenty of time... (2nd Low for about 30km takes a while, bonnet level water most of the time). 5 - If the locals laugh at you 'whities' driving a Discovery saying you will never make it because (a) white people can't drive in mud and, (b) your Discovery will never beat a Defender - you can give them a wry smile knowing that we did it! 6 - If you see mud chains on the local cars you know you are in for a torrid time. Our Discovery was fitted with the standard Michelin's (not sure of the details), the wider tyre with the cross pattern on them. All the local Landies had the 'old-tradional' narrow 16" Dunlop 8 ply trye. These tryes were incredible they cut through the mud and flung the mud out of the tread as they spun creating more grip. Our fancy tyres costing 10 x the price each got terribly clogged with mud and lost traction getting us stuck a few times - the locals know exactly where to be to laugh at those getting stuck at US$10 a push this section of the trip was prooving very costly! The local vehicles with mud chains fitted on the 8 ply's were incredible, they just cruised around as though they roads were perfectly tarred !! Anyway, we got to our destination Ngorogoro Crater with one very *sore* Discovery after the trip the car needed new shocks, springs, tyres, spots, front bumper and roofrack repair, side mirrors and pannel beating - a very costly excercise, thank goodness it was a company car - None of this was because of reckless or stupid driving it was just because the roads were so bad. You can see a few of my photos from my trip at: http://users.iafrica.com/w/wh/whiley/east1.htm We had a wonderful trip in the end, many stories and lots of photos. Any questions are most welcome. Grant Whiley whiley@iafrica.com Cape Town, South Africa http://users.iafrica.com/w/wh/whiley SIII '74 2.25 Diesel 'Witblitz' [White Lightning] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 08:44:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame Hi Charles, From the articale in one of the LR mags your frame should be about right. It looked like they added a second set of spring hangers back right behind the existing spring hangers. Now the fun question where is it? Thanks, Rob - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 11:12:11 -0300
Subject: Re: DIFF Lockers
Kirk Hillman wrote:
> Okay, you all have my attention now. All this talk about lockers
> and limited slips, I'm confused now. I have read the plethora out there
> on the net about what does what, and how. I was under the strict
> impression that none of these systems were designed for LR diffs. I
> know you can get lockers for the Salisbury, but I thought nothing else.
> I have no interest in a welded diff. Are any of these other systems
> compatible with the rover style diff?
[ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> Cheers,
> Kirk and Banshee
the latest issue of "Canadian Four Wheel Drive Magazine" has a very well
researched article on what axle/ diff/locker combination fits what for
virtually every vehicle made. It has an easy to read chart that does
include Land Rover.
Their address is PO Box27118
750 Goldstream Ave
Victoria BC
V9B 5S4
Phone 250 478 8884
John and Muddy
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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 11:24:11 -0300
Subject: Re: My new project
Peter Hope wrote:
> Aloha All.
> Picked up my 2A today. Yeah.
> After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over instead
> of just a front quarter replacement. The right side of the rear crossmember
> is about .5 inches further back then the left. The frame resembles a
> diamond instead of a rectangle :-( It is a shame too, the thing has zero
[ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> plus the steel for the project for less then the shipping alone will run me
> for a frame (been quoted 1200 for just the shipping)
Ask around for a quality collision repair shop and discuss with them the
possibility of getting the frame pulled on a frame straightner. It would
be a lot cheaper than a new frame where you are and given the rust free
condition of the old one might be the best solution. A good opperator on
a frame straightner can work miracles and the frame will be as good as
new.
John and Muddy
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]From: chrisste <chrisste@clark.net> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 98 10:40:08 -0000 Subject: 1/4 Frame Questions Hi all, I'm going to have to replace the front quarter of my son's 88" frame. Anyone done this before? Can I do it with engine in? Any other suggestions? Chris Stevens Towson, MD - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 98 08:56:50 -0700 Subject: Re: My new project >After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over instead >of just a front quarter replacement. The right side of the rear crossmember ;>is about .5 inches further back then the left. The frame resembles a ;>diamond instead of a rectangle :-( It is a shame too, the thing has zero ;>rust on it. Suggestion: Take the Land Rover to a frame shop and ask them if they can fix the frame & how much. Frame shops have those big frame straightning machines & may be able to push your frame back to within spec for less than a new frame and save you the effort of removing every part & building it on a new frame. It's worth checking out. ;>And one final question: ;> ;>>I know that British Pacifc caries both ARB and Detroit. COntact them for ;>>prices. I think that others may as well. ;>>TeriAnn Wakeman >After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over instead ;>Thanks I will try that. ;> ;>I was also wondering if you installed them yourselve or had it done? Did ;>yours just replace the spiders or the ring carrier? I had my diff set up by a profesional company that specializes in only doing diffs. I wanted the job done correctly. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:19:32 +0200 Subject: Re: Primary pinion stuck in bell housing >Just curious, but you did remove the unique looking nut on the front? >Nate Maybe I am now about to give everyone a big laugh but what looking nut are you talking about? As I have understood the green bible I just have to remove the circlip and then just press the primary pinion out of the bellhousing and out of the primary pinion bearing. Am I missing something vital here? Peter Peter Thoren, PhD Department of Genetics Uppsala University Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala Phone: +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64 Fax: +46 18 67 27 05 e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@ushmm.org Date: Fri, 16 Oct 98 10:21:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams >Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has any scale drawings of the frame? I >have the Haynes Manual and was wondering if there was anything better then >the pictures in there? if you are talking about the dimensioned drawings of the frame, they are better than the frames themsleves and if you can get within 3/8" tolerance of those measurements, you should be fine. later dave measured mine, wasn't in line, drives fine! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 12:38:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Al. adhesive >I KNOW this is the place for this answer. Now, the question. I want to glue >several AL.panels togather for a thicker plate. Can't you just buy some thicker plate - there are mail order places around that supply these things - It would probably be stronger. >What would be the BEST, LONGEST lasting glue to use? I have a number of >1/8" >panels and would like to make a couple of thicker panels out of them >for use on >"Vicky". I know of a repairing compound that is epoxy, filled with Al. It is more for actually filling gaps, cracks or dents. You should try to contact the tech department at a company called Devcon, they can probably answer your question, and probably have the right stuff for your project. They must have a web site with info on it, but I don't know where it is. Good luck - Peter (usual disclaimers apply) Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:10:55 +0200 Subject: RE: Tyre Type and mud - Northern Tanzania - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 12:44:49 EDT Subject: Re: Primary pinion stuck in bell housing In a message dated 10/18/98 12:23:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se writes: << Maybe I am now about to give everyone a big laugh but what looking nut are you talking about? As I have understood the green bible I just have to remove the circlip and then just press the primary pinion out of the bellhousing and out of the primary pinion bearing. Am I missing something vital here? >> Just went back to the books... Sounds like a SIII bellhousing. On the SII and IIa, there's a special nut, that only applies to the SII/a bellhousing and needs removal when taking the bearing off the pinion. If all that stuff is off the pinion, you might try pressing the shaft out of the bearing with a arbor press (or have a local machine shop do it). Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 12:46:02 EDT Subject: Re: Al. adhesive In a message dated 10/18/98 12:39:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pmk11@cornell.edu writes: << I know of a repairing compound that is epoxy, filled with Al >> Do tell, what's the name of this stuff? Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 13:00:29 EDT Subject: Re: Al. adhesive The clever gits at 3M have a special tape which is used in trailer and RV manuf. Try an RV supply vendor, and remember it is one, that's ONE shot. A friend buildt his custom racing trailer, and you can't believe how strong the stuff is. Zack Arbios - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 13:12:01 EDT Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame I'm in Los Angeles! The section DOES NOT have the rear crossmember (it was rusted away). Reason I got it - my own 109 chassis needs rust repair, but I'm still debating simply buying a new chassis overseas, as opposed to fixing what I've got, and the truck it came from, sort of doesn't exist anymore (two NATO trucks were cut up to make one: one was hit, the other was rusty) Charles - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 11:33:17 -0700
Subject: TA: Diff lockers
TA,
It seems you know more about where to find these things than the
others on the list so I will ask you. You say that you can get these
lockers/limited slips for a rover style diff? Do they just not
advertise this in their catalog? I have done enough off roading now
that I believe that I would benefit from lockers, but I didn't want to
go to the expense of putting Salisbury parts under my truck. I admit
the lockers wouldn't get used all that much, but when they are needed,
they ARE needed. I like to think I can go almost anywhere in 2low,
ridiculous places in 4low, and hope to achieve the insane lockered up.
:-)
I play for fun, but I play for real!
Kirk and Banshee
--
"Faith without works is dead."
Maranatha, selah.
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]From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 08:18:12 -1000 Subject: Re: My new project >Ask around for a quality collision repair shop and discuss with them the >possibility of getting the frame pulled on a frame straightner. It would >be a lot cheaper than a new frame where you are and given the rust free >condition of the old one might be the best solution. Damm good idea. Never even thought about that. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 08:23:30 -1000 Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame >I'm in Los Angeles! >The section DOES NOT have the rear crossmember (it was rusted away). If the other person is not interested I might be. What condition is the rest of it in, front to rear? Also was wondering, do you have a 109 pickup? I saw one a couple of times at some surf spots on the PCH north of Zuma when we were there in august. Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:18:22 EDT Subject: Brake Question Hi all, Ok, I'm stumped. I have both rear drums off. Every thing is assembled correctly: cam adjustors are with the correct spacers and such, both wheel cylinders move correctly. How come I can't get the adjustor to lock against the drums? The drums are new (2 years ago) as are the wheel cylinders, cams, shoes and springs. I have good braking and the adjustors do move the shoes, just not much until the top of the cam. I can notice the difference with the slightest of pressure on the brake pedal (then they lock) but I thought I should be able to lock them up with just the snail cams. Is this merely folklore? Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 98 12:27:16 -0700 Subject: Re: TA: Diff lockers >TA, > It seems you know more about where to find these things than the ;>others on the list so I will ask you. You say that you can get these ;>lockers/limited slips for a rover style diff? Do they just not ;>advertise this in their catalog? Look in the current British Pacific catalogue on page 34. you will find ARB lockers for Rover & Salisbury diffs as well as the ARB compressor. 800-554-4133 ;> I have done enough off roading now ;>that I believe that I would benefit from lockers, but I didn't want to ;>go to the expense of putting Salisbury parts under my truck. You may find that with the added stress of driving into places that you would avoid or winch yourself over that you break more axles and may decide to add a Salisbury or two. Take Care TeriAnn Wakeman The Green Rover, rebuilt and Santa Cruz, California and maintained using parts from twakeman@cruzers.com British Pacific 800-554-4133 http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jory bell <jory@mit.edu> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 12:25:29 -0700 Subject: Re: My new project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 98 12:34:35 -0700 Subject: Re: Brake Question >Ok, I'm stumped. I have both rear drums off. Every thing is assembled >correctly: cam adjustors are with the correct spacers and such, both wheel >cylinders move correctly. ; ;>How come I can't get the adjustor to lock against the drums? The drums are ;>new (2 years ago) as are the wheel cylinders, cams, shoes and springs. I ;>have good braking and the adjustors do move the shoes, just not much ;> until the top of the cam. I can notice the difference with the ;>slightest of pressure on the brake pedal (then they lock) but I ;>thought I should be able to lock them up with just the snail cams. ;>Is this merely folklore? Nope, It's tue, it's tue (You need to see the movie "Blazing Saddles" to understand) You didn't say what kind of Rover you have but I would guess that you have a 109 and you just put the brake shoes on backwards. You have just described the classic symptoms. Check the FAQ section of my web site for a full description. If you have an 88 ...never mind TeriAnn Wakeman The Green Rover, rebuilt and Santa Cruz, California and maintained using parts from twakeman@cruzers.com British Pacific 800-554-4133 http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:33:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Al. adhesive << I know of a repairing compound that is epoxy, filled with Al >> >Do tell, what's the name of this stuff? Nate, it's Devcon, Al filled epoxy putty. I bought some a few months ago to repair my bed corrosion on my IIa, but haven't got around to trying it out. You basically get the area down to bare Al, chemically clean it, then putty the stuff in, and it dries overnight. If you are patching holes, like on my rear 1/4 panels, you first clean the backside of the hole, putty a piece of Al or plastic screening over the hole (from the back), let that dry, and then this will support the putty from the front of the hole. I was told it has the consistancy of peanut butter. Now, I think T-A comented it might make a mess if it dries harder than the Al - so when you try to sand it down, you end up sanding the Al panel instead of the dried putty. At some point I'll try it on a scrap piece and see which is harder. It can be found at an industrial supply store. Let us know if it works - someday I'll get to it. Cheers - Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 15:38:06 EDT Subject: Re: Brake Question In a message dated 10/18/98 3:32:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, twakeman@cruzers.com writes: << You didn't say what kind of Rover you have but I would guess that you have a 109 and you just put the brake shoes on backwards. >> Nope. It's an 88 with all the normal components. 10" drums, shoes and adjustors set up thatta way. Top spring from rear post on backing plate to post on leading shoe, return spring at bottom from trailing to leading shoe. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 16:27:15 EDT Subject: Possible answer to Brake Question Hi all, If the cam adjustor pin isn't a tight enough fit, and allowed some tilting of the snail cam, could this be the problem? There is a fair amount of tilting that occurs on my snail cams, which I don't see in another axle which I have laying around. If this is the problem, is there some kind of sleeve I can put over the adjustor pin to fit the hole? ( I have a feeling the problem is in the backing plate, not the adjustor pin) Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "JEREMY BROOKS" <jbrookslegacy@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 14:10:22 PDT Subject: Series 2 109 Pick Up for Sale Hi All, I have found a 109 Series 2 pick up which is for sale. I don't know the exact year, but is appears to be a 2 ,rather than a 2A. Steering is LH. The motor is missing and the frame is the usual rot pile. This really is a project vehicle for someone looking to restor from the ground up a 109 pick up. The cab is on, the dash is complete, the tail gate is very good ( was never dropped onto the tow hitch). The body is a tad below average, but then 109 pick ups are not common, so it is wothwhile saving. Last I heard, the owner is motivated to sell. Also available are many odds and ends from dismembered 88's of various years. Vehicle is located in Burlington, Ontario. It is extremely easy to access (i.e. not lost in the back 40) and load onto a trailer. For those of you in the US, Burlington is about 1.5 hrs from the US/Canada border. Interested parties can reply to my e-mail. Thanks Jeremy Brooks 1955 107 Pick-up - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:47:25 +1000 Subject: 110/130 rim widths In Australia the standard 110 wheel width is 5.5" and the 130 has 6.5" (disco 7.0") the 130s have the holes drilled around the circumfrence of the inner bit, the 110s don't are we talking different specs in the UK? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 19:00:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Brake Question Nate, If I can remember from a month ago when I did this... >Top spring from rear post on backing plate to post on leading shoe I remember having to wrestle the top spring under teh cam. In other words the top spring went from the post on the trailing shoe to the post the snail cam rotates on. If this distance is longer than the way you've hooked it up, it will pull your cylinders and shoes in more, and hence allow the cam to actuate the shoe more - Sound correct?? > return spring at bottom from trailing to leading shoe. That's what I did. It sounds odd that you cams are tilted. Are they loose, or bent into this position? Did your brakes work before you pulled stuff apart? Good luck - Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:04:12 +1000 Subject: tyre pressures in mud reducing tyre pressures also increases the tyre's ability to flex, this flexing can help 'pump' the mud out of those side lug which have otherwise clogged up smooth, this is a definite advantage the disadvantage is that in some of these muddy conditions you may also encounter sharp sticks and roots etc. which like to pierce soft side walls - the sidewalls are more exposed when the tyres are softer as you reduce the tyre pressures you increase the ability to 'float' - this may be a problem on very hard mud where you need to bight in - you need your chains here one of the problems with chains id they tend to dig deep trenches, particularly in softer mud, if the groung is quite moist this becomes the water course and befor you know it it can become impassable to anyone, in mud, with chains you must drive very gently to get the traction without 'slinging' the pud (mis-type, should have been mud - but I liked it !) so that others will be able to come along later - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:23:19 +1000 Subject: Re: front diff locks I'll appologise befor I start to anyone that has a limitted slip diff in the front :-) if you want to go around corners you need to be able to unlock the front diff, in really slippery stuff you will be able to stear with it locked but it will drag one wheel around and dramattically increase your circle - A limitted slip diff does not give you the option of turning it off for this purpose - one that you positively engaage/disengage as you need it is much better As previously stated - a welded front diff is fine if you only wish to go in straight lines - but almost useless for anything else A limitted slip diff in the rear can be OK as long as you are aware of its characteristics - eg how and when it locks and how long it takes to unlock - a story from a Landy Club member a few years ago was he accelerated on the wet tram lines, one wheel span, the diff loked, as therewas not a lot of traction on the wet road with his mud tyres the locked rear diff sent him straight ahead even though he was hoping to turn - only minot damage to a fence - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 19:44:14 EDT Subject: One last brake thought... Do the spring washers in the cam adjustors ever go "soft" i.e. lose their ability to keep things stiff and thereby allowing the snail cam to tilt? Just trying to figure out what's gotta go... Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 20:47:43 -0300
Subject: Re: tyre pressures in mud
Richard Clarke wrote:
> reducing tyre pressures also increases the tyre's ability to flex, this
> flexing can help 'pump' the mud out of those side lug which have otherwise
> clogged up smooth, this is a definite advantage
I met with a convincing demonstration of this yesterday while leading a
group of 20 of "the other 4x4" up a very greasy slope. You could hardly
stand up yet when all 20 had gone by the ruts where only 1 inch deep.
2 identical vehicles with the same sized, same type tire. The first with
only 22psi sailed up with hardly a spin the second with 35psi had to be
towed until the owner realised what the problem was and lowered the tire
pressures to 25 all round.
John and Muddy
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]From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:08:31 -0700 Subject: RE: Distance piece replacement? To get them off the book says to chisel them off. I found that chiseling in a line longitudinally (create a significant cut) and once a cut is started, as you chisel aim the blows to cause the spacer to rotate about the center. It will finally start to rotate and its pretty easy after that. Can't remember what I did to get them back on: either pressed them on at the machine shop or did as you suggested: heat and freeze appropriate parts. Clayton Kirkwood (916) 663-2368 kirkwood@garlic.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:45:27 -0700 Subject: RE: Possible answer to Brake Question Hi, I have the same problem generally with my 59 88. Clayton Kirkwood (916) 663-2368 kirkwood@garlic.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:50:14 -0700 Subject: RE: Possible answer to Brake Question Hi, I have the same problem generally with my 59 88. When I installed the snail cams, the instructions were clear not to over tighten the nut on the back of the cam bolt. Yet I notice also that the spring on the inside of the backing plate on the snail cam bolt has considerable "springiness" and could easily account (esp. from four corner) for the weak brakes. Anybody have any advise on how tight the cam should be tightened down??? Clayton Kirkwood (916) 663-2368 kirkwood@garlic.com Ps. Sorry for the first incomplete message: leaned on the wrong thingy :>) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ] From: "Ian Harding" <iharding@seanet.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 19:05:35 -0700 Subject: Alternator not Alternating charset="iso-8859-1" I have a Rover that was "rebuilt" by an amateur. The alternator doesn;t charge. I understand that a typical alternator has 3 wires going to it, the big one (output) and two little ones, one to the meter or idiot light, the other to the key (the "field" wire, which tells the alternator to alternate.) My Rover only has two wires, a big one and a little one. The little one is brown with a yellow line. The idiot light never did work. How can I figure out what's going on here, and am I supposed to have 3 wires? There is a place for another wire on the plug... Thank you in advance, Ian Harding Tacoma, Wa. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDFACB.ACE5FA60 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef; ] [Attachment removed, was 43 lines.] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe/CDR" <trowe@ibm.net> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 22:35:56 +0100 Subject: Re: Alternator not Alternating wrote: >I have a Rover that was "rebuilt" by an amateur. The alternator doesn;t >charge. I understand that a typical alternator has 3 wires going to it snip It depends on the model. A '67 diesel I worked on once had a very complicated original alternator setup. It took and old edition of the Haynes Electrical manual (now out of print) to figure it out. I'd never seen anything like it. So it depends on the year and model you have to know how it's supposed to be. Cheers. Tom Rowe Atlanta, GA Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 22:57:45 EDT Subject: British Car magazine, Oct-Nov issue This issue has a couple of LR articles including one that lists prices for model years 1960-1973. All models are included in their pricing scheme. Class E $4,000 Class D $6,000 Class C $11,000 Class B $15,000 Class A $21,000 The Class definitions are as follows: (abbreviated) A Completely restored to showroom condition or better. Not driven since restorations B Excellent restoration to non-original specs or good older restoration. Non- concours but will do very well in popular choice votes and safe for long tours. C Good recreation driving car, very clean unrestored original or good amateur restoration. From 20 feet away, it looks like a show car but may have superficial flaws D Running car with good body and most original components. May need work on some major parts as well as significant detailing work. E Project car with all components and most major details intact. Limited rust or structural damage but needing extensive restoration before being usable. SO, where do your LR's stand up? Tigger (Series III 88" softtop) is a mostly D car and the Dormobile (IIA 109) is most definitely an E. But I wouldn't trade them for the world. Maybe for a 110 but not the world! Those who own "A" Land Rovers can congratulate themselves but IMHO, it's a shame not to drive 'em. Cheers, Gerry Elam PHX AZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:23:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame Hi Charles, Well if Pete can use your frame section to save/repair his LR then I well yield. My 4X6 is a fanciful dream right now. Pete sounds closer to you as well. I will keep looking for a section of frame closer to the midwest. Enjoiy Pete, Thanks again Charles. Regards, Rob Davis_Chicago - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:34:53 -0500 Subject: Re: 1/4 Frame Questions Hi Chris, When I got my first rover I did the same repair & had to plank more steel on the one side to strengthen it so I coould weld on it without burning through. The spring arch takes a lot of stress so if you question the strength add steel. I did the whole thing with the engine in but both frnders & radatior out. One mistake I made was not measuring the distance between the spring hangers before removing them. I would measure front to back & across (rf to lr hanger) The front springs remount after all welding was all done. Hope that helps. Regards, Rob Davis_Chicago - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 23:26:58 EDT Subject: 20/20 report on Jonestown Sad report about Jim Jones on 20/20 tonight. Kind of sad knowing that over 900 people died at his hands in Guyana. Makes you wonder.... who got the 109 that was left behind at the compound? (it's a joke....lighten up!) Gerry Elam PHX AZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 18:29:19 -1000 Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame Not sure if I can use it. And I am in Hawaii at the moment. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 01:55:43 EDT Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame Hi, Pete... The chassis section in question, is simply that - a section. It's pretty much the area from the front of the REAR spring hangers, to the rear of the rear hangers (hangers inclusive), along with the cross sections in between. It's bare metal, so there's surface rust (no holes). Anybody interested that can take it away - $50.00 can have it, (unless you have something of interest to trade) along with whatever other chassis pieces I have (I do have a set of front horns - one side bent, also NATO spring points, that'll go with it - LHD, along with, I think, a few side outriggers in good shape). Yes, I do have a 109 pickup, though I've never taken it to Zuma. As far as the coast goes, I usually don't go farther than Santa Monica, due to horrendous traffic on PCH. Anything farther, I go inland. There's about 6 or 7 pickups lurking about locally that I know of...what color was it? Diesel? Petrol? I may know who owns it. Charles - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: joe <xtr16170801@xtra.co.nz> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:47:31 +1300 Subject: landrover diesel engine himy name is Joe, i have an 1954 S1 swb.i am a few days away from dropping in a landrover 2.1/4 diesel into it..has anyone got and data,spec's, or tec info on the engine...any small amount would be helpful. thanks. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:59:28 +0100 Subject: Re: One last brake thought... NADdMD@aol.com wrote: > Do the spring washers in the cam adjustors ever go "soft" i.e. lose their > ability to keep things stiff and thereby allowing the snail cam to tilt? > Just trying to figure out what's gotta go... >From what you are saying about the snail cams, they appear to be non-original. I had to replace the snails on an 88" I had some years ago and found a kit from a local motor shop which included a selection of cams, the stud it rotated on and a spring which kept it all tight. The old cams and post had to be drilled out to remove them. Maybe this is what you have and the whole thing has worn so much it now tilts. I would try and get another backplate if the repair kit is not available. Mick Forster 1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html 1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol Very sad Metro :-( http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 05:41:04 EDT Subject: Re: One last brake thought... In a message dated 10/19/98 5:03:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk writes: << From what you are saying about the snail cams, they appear to be non-original. >> Correct. I put them on a couple years ago. I suspect I should have gone with genuine adjustors. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:22:16 +0000 Subject: Re: landrover diesel engine landrover 2.1/4 diesel into it..has anyone got and data,spec's, or tec info on the engine...any small amount would be helpful. >thanks. There is an FAQ at http;//www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.Diesel.html Cheers Mike Rooth - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:31:31 +0000 Subject: Re: landrover diesel engine landrover 2.1/4 diesel into it..has anyone got and data,spec's, or tec >info on the engine...any small amount would be helpful. >thanks. Engine dimensions etc on http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.Engines.html This is part of the OVLR website,which may be of inerest as a whole. Cheers Mike Rooth (Again) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981019 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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