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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:54:37 -0700
Subject: DIFF Lockers

    Okay, you all have my attention now.  All this talk about lockers
and limited slips, I'm confused now.  I have read the plethora out there
on the net about what does what, and how.  I was under the strict
impression that none of these systems were designed for LR diffs.  I
know you can get lockers for the Salisbury, but I thought nothing else.
I have no interest in a welded diff.  Are any of these other systems
compatible with the rover style diff?
    BTW, I DID hear a while ago from a guy around here, in Canada, that
he knew of a company in Oz that made a completely different product that
fit the rover diff.  He said it almost in passing, but never mentioned
who the company was.  Any thoughts?
    I have to sympathize with Pete about the cross axle problem.  The PO
of my rig decided to put extended shackles on it, but never replaced the
shocks with something more appropriate.  I must say though, my LR's
articulation is STILL better than most.  The only time I have become
cross axled is with one wheel on top of a step almost 2 feet high.  I
think that is pretty darn good.  I wouldn't even have noticed, except
for the the fact that I like to see how far past the guys in the J**ps I
can get in 2 wheel drive (I exaggerate, but I have come close).  Back to
the cross axle problem, I heard of a guy that built up an 88" from the
frame.  He never did use shocks at all.  Apparently he does use it on
the road that much, and because it is a slow vehicle anyway, he hasn't
had many problems.  Do doesn't get cross axled.  I don't know if -I-
would try it though  :-)
    Thanks for your ears.

Cheers,
Kirk and Banshee

--
"Faith without works is dead."

Maranatha, selah.

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From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 12:05:55 -0400
Subject: Last weekends VT/NH trip report

All,

I have been in Chicago all week on business....but I want to take time to
thank Chris Velardi for setting up last Saturdays day out in VT. I would
like to thank everyone that showed up. We had 23 trucks over the two days.
The weather didn't co-operate on Saturday, Sunday was a wonderful day.

Saturday we meet up with two drunk %&#$% in a Ford bronco, I think it was.
Anyway, this thing had NO tread on the front tires, but they proceeded in
putting that thing nose first into a stream crossing. Anyway I got it out
using the winch and as they pulled away you could hear a large crack as the
front drive shaft broke ! I tried to ignore the comment from one of them, "I
think will go get me one of those LAND CRUSIERS" ! I almost put him back in
the crossing !

The power lines provided some great off-roading for experienced and
newcomers alike. We didn't do the full length, but the trails we tried kept
everyone thinking. The Puddles" provided some great water to navigate, for
some, they provided a little too much enjoyment !!!

The hill climbs were great, although one stopped a few of us dead ! My self
included ! But the great thing about these power lines is there is always
another way around the obstacle.

I'm sorry to have to burst the bubble of those that thought we climbed
"CARNAGE HILL". We didn't climb it ! That hill is almost impossible to climb
! Its straight up about 100 yards, littered with body damaging rocks. Its
name comes from the fact that its littered with discarded exhaust systems,
broken tie rods, and dented body panels. Anyone wanting to try, let me know,
I can get you there.

I have been asked to do this again....maybe if enough want to try the power
lines w can go out in November or December....as long as there is no snow !

Mark

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 06:47:21 -1000
Subject: Re: DIFF Lockers

>I was under the strict
>impression that none of these systems were designed for LR diffs

I know that ARB makes the air locker for front and rear.  Of course its like
$600 per axle plus 300 for the compressor.
Not sure where TA got her locker
Pete

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 14:04:28 EDT
Subject: What is Running in Oil?

Hi all,

What is running in oil?  I've been asking machine shops around here whether
it's necessary or not and I haven't heard anyone say it's absolutely necessary
or what it's purpose is.  Supposedly it's low ash but I don't really know why
that would be especially beneficial.

Any one know specifics about this stuff?

Nate

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 98 11:58:25 -0700
Subject: Re: DIFF Lockers

>>I was under the strict
>>impression that none of these systems were designed for LR diffs
;>I know that ARB makes the air locker for front and rear.  Of course its 
like
;>$600 per axle plus 300 for the compressor.
;>Not sure where TA got her locker
;>Pete
Sorry if I gave people the wrong impression but I do not have a locker in 
my car.  I have a Quafe brand limited slip in the front axle but my rear 
one is open.  There are a number of companies making products for LR 
diffs. ARB, Mcmara, detroit, Quafe to name a few.  I think all the U.S. 
mail order LR parts houss carry ARB & probably the less expensive Detroit 
lockers & limited slip units.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 08:56:29 -1000
Subject: Re: DIFF Lockers

>Sorry if I gave people the wrong impression but I do not have a locker in
>my car.  I have a Quafe brand limited slip in the front axle but my rear
>one is open.  There are a number of companies making products for LR
>diffs. ARB, Mcmara, detroit, Quafe to name a few.  I think all the U.S.
>mail order LR parts houss carry ARB & probably the less expensive Detroit
>lockers & limited slip units.

I just looked, I can not see/find a listing for a limited-slip/posi in Rover
North, Brit Atlantic, Brit Pac, or Brit Bulldog.  Are they phone order only,
or do I need to look at ano0ther suplier?
TIA
Pete

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 17 Oct 1998 23:27:02 +0200
Subject: Primary pinion stuck in bell housing

Dear list,

I am changing bearings in my gearbox and I am now working on the bell
housing. The layshaft bearing worked like a charm but now I am trying the
primary pinion bearing. I can´t get the primary pinion out. It won´t move,
not even after brutal force has been applied. Any advice on this matter
would be very welcome. 

Peter
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:42:36 EDT
Subject: Distance piece replacement?

Howdy everybody,
Guess it's time to stop the gear-oil coating on the inside of my back wheels.
Just put this axle in there about 9,000 miles ago, and both hubs are leaking
quite badly.  Noticed during axle overhaul (when I put on new hub seals) that
the distance pieces weren't exactly perfect, sooo . . .

Anyone have any tips for how to get old ones off/ new ones on?
Can I chisel old ones 'til they're oversize and come off the stub shaft?

Can I just heat up the new ones 'til they've expanded and then slip them over
the stub shaft?

Thanks for any help,

Bill Rice
64 SIIA 109 SW
Columbus GA (where I worked outside all day on the Rover shirtless and
sweating, getting a sunburn, on OCT 16th)

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 16:55:22 -0500
Subject: Searching for rear half 109 frame

Hi All,
  If anyone out there has the rear half of a 109 frame which is usable
they would like to cleanup before winter Please contact me.  I am
playing with the idea of building a 4X6 next summer.  Finding a usable
frame section is the first step in my mad plan.   I am hoping to add the
frame section & a front axle to trail behind the "power wheels" then if
everthing lines up move on to the body changes.   Has anyone else built
a 4x6?

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:48:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Primary pinion stuck in bell housing

In a message dated 10/17/98 5:31:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se writes:

<< I am changing bearings in my gearbox and I am now working on the bell
 housing. The layshaft bearing worked like a charm but now I am trying the
 primary pinion bearing. I can´t get the primary pinion out. It won´t move,
 not even after brutal force has been applied. Any advice on this matter
 would be very welcome.  >>

Just curious, but you did remove the unique looking nut on the front?

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:50:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Distance piece replacement?

In a message dated 10/17/98 5:43:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jarvis64@aol.com
writes:

<< Anyone have any tips for how to get old ones off/ new ones on?
 Can I chisel old ones 'til they're oversize and come off the stub shaft?>>

Yes.  If it is still stuck a bit, channel locks work well too
 
 <<Can I just heat up the new ones 'til they've expanded and then slip them
over
 the stub shaft?>>

Yes.  (TeriAnn method) you can drift them into place with the hub socket too.

Nate

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 18:25:12 EDT
Subject: BFG M/Ts

Just a note to any of you looking at new tires.  I love my BFG M/Ts.  Have
235/85/16s on my 109 w/ over 40,000 miles (including a fair amount of off-road
abuse) on them and plenty of tread left.  They're great off-road, and on a car
as noisy as ours, who cares if they're noisy on-road.   Good in the snow too,
not that that's much of a factor for me anymore (85 degrees today).

My secret: I rotate them every time I change the oil (3,000 miles or whenever
I get around to it).

Bill Rice
SIIA 109SW
Columbus GA

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 16:42:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Distance piece replacement?

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Howdy everybody,
> Noticed during axle overhaul (when I put on new hub seals) that
> the distance pieces weren't exactly perfect, sooo . . .
> Anyone have any tips for how to get old ones off/ new ones on?
> Can I chisel old ones 'til they're oversize and come off the stub shaft?
> Can I just heat up the new ones 'til they've expanded and then slip them over

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Can I just heat up the new ones 'til they've expanded and then slip them over
> the stub shaft?
	Hey Bill, just did mine not too long ago. I used a chisel until they
started wanting to turn a little, and then used a big pair of channel
locks to work them off. I heated mine up to put them on and I think it
helped some, but I ended up pounding them on the rest of the way. I used
an old bearing race of a similar size, but a larger center hole, and a
piece of pipe. Worked like a charm. I used the bearing race because the
pipe wasn't close enough in size. Just be sure not nick the shaft or it
won't slide off and on quite so easily.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 18:50:26
Subject: Al. adhesive

I KNOW this is the place for this answer. Now, the question. I want to glue
several AL.panels togather for a thicker plate. What would be the BEST,
LONGEST lasting glue to use? I have a number of 1/8" panels and would like
to make a couple of thicker panels out of them for use on "Vicky". 

Jim Wolf

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From: Vince Sabio <vince@humournet.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 19:03:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Primary pinion stuck in bell housing

** Sometime around 17:48 -0400 10/17/98, NADdMD@aol.com said:

.>In a message dated 10/17/98 5:31:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
.>Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se writes:
.>
.><< I am changing bearings in my gearbox and I am now working on the bell
.> housing. The layshaft bearing worked like a charm but now I am trying the
.> primary pinion bearing. I can¥t get the primary pinion out. It won¥t move,
.> not even after brutal force has been applied. Any advice on this matter
.> would be very welcome.  >>
.>
.>Just curious, but you did remove the unique looking nut on the front?
>.
Probably just opened the driver's door and let him out.

(Sorry. Poor restraint. I'll go stand in the corner again.)

- Vince Sabio
  Columbia MD
  98 Disco (Willow Green)
  Still no leaks!

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 16:13:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 09:15:52 -1000
Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers

>I am thinking of running an ARB rear, hubs and full lock in front (weld the
spiders to the carrier?).  My Rover will be going back Mainland when we
leave in 2001 and we will most likely end up in SoCal.  So I will be doing
mostly rock/canyon and desert driving.  Don't think I will see much gumbo.
It is because of the cross axle stuff so prominent in the South West that I
am thinking lockers.  Would love to hear some opinions on this one.

I don't have locking differentials on my Series III, so I'm simply repeating
information I've heard from another person.  But I met a fellow last year in
Petersburg, Alaska, who has a new Discovery as well as a Series IIa 109 that
he's had for years.  He has fitted both vehicles with ARB locking
differentials, on the front and rear on the 109, and I think just the rear
on the Discovery.  He does a lot of exploring in Alaksa, the Yukon, and
British Columbia on very bad roads that are often extremely muddy.  He said
that the lockers are great in the mud when you were likely to lose traction
on one or more wheels.  However, he cautioned that you had to be very
careful when driving with the lockers engaged.  If both tires on an axle
lose traction and then grab again, the shock can often be sufficient to snap
one or both halfshafts.  He said he never uses them on hard surfaces, or in
conditions where it is likely that he'll lose traction and then suddeny
regain it.

When the lockers are engaged, he said he drives extremely slowly and
cautiously to avoid putting sudden loads on the driveline.  While he did not
mention ever doing any rock crawling, lockers would obviously be of great
benefit if you got a wheel up in the air but needed to drive the opposite
wheel to keep you going.  The upshot of what he he had learned from many
years of driving the 109 with air lockers is that while they are very handy
to have in certain situations, they are not a panacea for every situation,
and in fact you can break things pretty easily (on a Land Rover, anyway) if
you aren't careful how you use them.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 16:40:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 09:15:52 -1000
Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers

>I am thinking of running an ARB rear, hubs and full lock in front (weld the
spiders to the carrier?). 

I'm not sure this would be such a good idea.  The upper swivel bearings in
your front hub assemblies get their lubrication by being "splashed" with the
lube oil in the swivel balls which is thrown around by the rotating
U-joints.  If the hubs are unlocked and you are in 2wd, the front driveline
will not be turning, which means the U-joints in the swivel balls are not
rotating, which means oil is not being thrown up onto the upper swivel
bearing.  It doesn't take too much dry running for the upper swivel bearings
to start wearing out.  This is why the locking hub manufacturers like Warn
tell you to run the vehicle a minimum of one mile a month with the hubs
engaged.  If you weld up your front differential, it will be potentially
very damaging if you run on smooth roads with the hubs locked in.  This
means you will run the risk of wearing out your upper swivel bearings unless
you are very conscientious about driving regularly on a rough road on which
you can drive fast enough and long enough to ensure that the upper swivel
bearings receive sufficient lubrication.

I was told many, many years ago by friends in the Land Rover repair business
in the UK that even the Warn recommendation of one mile a month with the
hubs locked is far too liberal.  According to them, it doesn't take very
long at all for the upper swivel bearings to start wearing when they don't
receive regular lubrication.  Their recommendation was to run with the hubs
locked in most of the time, and only unlock them when you're going on a
freeway or motorway (cross-country) drive where there won't be much steering
movement.  This is about the only situation in which having the hubs
unlocked will really make much of a difference in your fuel consumption
anyway; stop and go driving around town doesn't benefit much from unlocked
hubs in terms of mileage, although acceleration seems to be a tiny bit
better.  I was given this advice shortly after installing Warn hubs on my
Series III in 1973, and I've followed it ever since.  So far (knock on wood)
in 25 years, including 10 years of daily driving and long trips to the
Yukon, British Columbia, and Montana, I have had no apparent wear problems
with my swivel bearings.

So I'd advise you to think carefully about the wisdom of welding your front
differential solid.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Tom Rowe/CDR" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 21:03:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers

phope@hawaii.rr.com
wrote:

>I am thinking of running an ARB rear, hubs and full lock in front
(weld the
spiders to the carrier?).
Snip

That would work.
As long as you don't care about being able to steer.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 98 19:55:59 -0700
Subject: Re: DIFF Lockers

>>Sorry if I gave people the wrong impression but I do not have a locker in
>>my car.  I have a Quafe brand limited slip in the front axle but my rear

;>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)]
;>>mail order LR parts houss carry ARB & probably the less expensive 
Detroit
;>>lockers & limited slip units.
;
;>I just looked, I can not see/find a listing for a limited-slip/posi in 
Rover
;>North, Brit Atlantic, Brit Pac, or Brit Bulldog.  Are they phone order 
only,
;>or do I need to look at ano0ther suplier?
;>TIA
;>Pete

I know that British Pacifc caries both ARB and Detroit.  COntact them for 
prices.  I think that others may as well.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 17:46:16 -1000
Subject: My new project

Aloha All.

Picked up my 2A today.  Yeah.

After much measuring it looks like this is going to be a frame over instead
of just a front quarter replacement.  The right side of the rear crossmember
is about .5 inches further back then the left.  The frame resembles a
diamond instead of a rectangle :-(  It is a shame too, the thing has zero
rust on it.

Also the front wheels are pointing in two different directions (toed out,
not in)  does not look like the axle housing is bent, what is a good way to
accuretely determine this?  And how can I check to see if the steering arm
on the bottom of the swivel ball it self is bent?  Again too bad.  The balls
are like new.  Would I be better off trying to find a used housing and
rebuild or get a complete set up?  Anyone ever converted a Defender front
coil spring axle to a leave spring for a Series? I would like disks if
possible. Constructing the perches would be pretty easy for me.  I am more
concerned with any difference/changes required for the steering.

As far as the frame is concerned, someone recently mentioned that they had a
custom built frame.  Did they do it themselves?  My left side rail is in
good shape and I have a couple of different drawings.  The minor tweaking of
the crossmembers can be fixed.  I believe I can make two new framerails and
use the existing xmembers.  I have the technology to rebuild it (for a whole
lot less then 6 million dollars haha), heck I could even get a new welder
plus the steel for the project for less then the shipping alone will run me
for a frame (been quoted 1200 for just the shipping)

If I do go this route I will be doing either a por-15 or lavaliner
application to the frame.  Using a undercoating gun from JCWhitney I will be
able to coat inside and out.  I have the por brochure, it is pretty much
rust repair oriented, anyone used it on fresh steel?  What do you think?
Has anyone tried Por and Lavaliner to compare the two?

And one final question:

>I know that British Pacifc caries both ARB and Detroit.  COntact them for
>prices.  I think that others may as well.
>TeriAnn Wakeman

Thanks I will try that.

I was also wondering if you installed them yourselve or had it done?  Did
yours just replace the spiders or the ring carrier?

Pete

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 02:37:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Searching for rear half 109 frame

Rob,

...How much of the rear frame do you need?

I've got a section that basically covers the spring hangers, and it's ex-NATO.

Charles

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From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 11:32:03 +0100
Subject: RE:Re: Breather

Guys explain me this.  

If the transfer case is sealed from the gearbox with a seal how will the 
gearbox 
drive the transfer case to transmit the power to the wheels.  There must be a 
slot from where gears combine.

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

TeriAnn Wakeman:

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From: Grant Whiley <whiley@iafrica.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 11:53:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Tyre Type and mud - Northern Tanzania

This should answer all your questions  - in January this year I just
happened to find myself travelling in a Land Rover Discovery Tdi in
Northern Tanzania en route to Kilimanjaro, Ngorogoro and Serengeti. This
was the sencond part of our trip the previous 5 weeks we travelled in
Zambia, Malawi and Southern Tanzania. 

There is a long tale of woe why our SIII '74 stayed in Cape Town, so we
missed-out the bottom half of our trip ie. Nambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Mozambique (we will maybe be doing that bit in Nov - Jan this year) - This
is another story.

Anyway back to the choice of tyres:  The catch was that the area (Northern
TZ) was experiencing the worst rains and flooding in many many years, we
had a couple of close calls - comming around a corner and finding no road
there at all - almost sliding off a mountain side... The other thing is
that the soil is very fine powder, from the past volcanic activity, which
means that when it rains it turns to unpredictable slush.

There are a couple lessons I learnt:

1 - Definately watch what the locals are doing, where they are driving,
what they are driving (Landies), what powers the car (diesel) and most
importantly where you must not drive. 

2 - When you see that the local village industry is chasis welding and tyre
repair and that at the police check point the officer says "May God be with
you" you should take a subtle hint of what lies ahead. We were lucky enough
to follow a convoy of Defender's from a local tour company, for the worst
section of the trip - learned a couple of useful tips.

3 - Drive a diesel Landy (nothing else quite makes the grade - except I
suppose the petrol Pajero stuck up to bonnet level in a river we just
cruised through). The other reason is that the diesel engine doesn't seem
to mind having a little water and sand in it.

4 - Give yourself plenty of time... (2nd Low for about 30km takes a while,
bonnet level water most of the time).

5 - If the locals laugh at you 'whities' driving a Discovery saying you
will never make it because (a) white people can't drive in mud and, (b)
your Discovery will never beat a Defender - you can give them a wry smile
knowing that we did it!

6 - If you see mud chains on the local cars you know you are in for a
torrid time. Our Discovery was fitted with the standard Michelin's (not
sure of the details), the wider tyre with the cross pattern on them. All
the local Landies had the 'old-tradional' narrow 16" Dunlop 8 ply trye.
These tryes were incredible they cut through the mud and flung the mud out
of the tread as they spun creating more grip. Our fancy tyres costing 10 x
the price each got terribly clogged with mud and lost traction getting us
stuck a few times - the locals know exactly where to be to laugh at those
getting stuck at US$10 a push this section of the trip was prooving very
costly!

The local vehicles with mud chains fitted on the 8 ply's were incredible,
they just cruised around as though they roads were perfectly tarred !!

Anyway, we got to our destination Ngorogoro Crater with one very *sore*
Discovery after the trip the car needed new shocks, springs, tyres, spots,
front bumper and roofrack repair, side mirrors and pannel beating - a very
costly excercise, thank goodness it was a company car - None of this was
because of reckless or stupid driving it was just because the roads were so
bad.

You can see a few of my photos from my trip at:

http://users.iafrica.com/w/wh/whiley/east1.htm

(almost finished)

We had a wonderful trip in the end, many stories and lots of photos. Any
questions are most welcome.

Grant Whiley

whiley@iafrica.com
Cape Town, South Africa
http://users.iafrica.com/w/wh/whiley

SIII '74 2.25 Diesel 'Witblitz'  [White Lightning]

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