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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 12:40:06 +0100 Subject: question about tyre inflation and mud \ would like to ask about going off road into mud, \would decreasing tyre inflation help traction on mud, especially the clay \type of mud? i ask because recently on my way back from our farm, i was \driving along the ridge of some rice fields to get to the road from inside \the farm and i slipped into the the canal of the field, on wheel was in the \canal and the other tyres couldn't get enough traction to back up. had to \dig out the mud from the forward diff and push the truck out. i read about \deflating the tyres when going on rocks so was wondering if it works for \mud as well? Mud is funny stuff. If there's nothing beneath it (likein a peat bog) then you must not break surface - so airing down spread teh laod over awider area and helps this. However most farm mud in the UK is best dealt wioth by narrow tyres designed to cut down thru the mud to more solid material underneath Traction Mileage fitted to 88s as standard). Floating on mud wont give as much traction as cutting thru it. But obviously if you keep cutting to teh axles ad there's still noting solid here, you're stuffed....... Not entirely seriously, but maybe a bit..... Maybe teh solution is as in competitive tractor pulling and use spin traction - to ignore the text book completely and rev the bugger as hard as possible to spin the wheels as fast as possible, the reaction of the crap thrown out backwards forcing teh tyres onto the leading edge of its rut into new muck to kick out backwards and cotinue he process. Appaently they do this cos it gives more thrust than trying to slog it out with non-spining whls at high torque and no spin. Never tried it myself, but it is noticeable that Arab desert hands rev like hell and go very fast with all four spining like crazy in the sand and dont get stuck, where visitors try to slog and instantly burrow to Australia. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: IBEdwardp@aol.com Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 07:43:01 EDT Subject: Re: Weather stripping/Door seals In a message dated 98-10-15 10:58:30 EDT, you write: << Does anyone have any experience using the molded sponge rubber weatherstripping sold by J.C.Whitney ? >> I used the sponge stick-on stuff from JCW about a year ago and so far so good. Taped it at the door bends until it "set," Doesn't look original but it seems to keep out most of the water. # is 13NL3178W. Usual disclaimers, of course. Ed Bailey 66 S2a 88 Somewhere in East Tennessee - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 08:55:09 -0300 Subject: Re: question about tyre inflation and mud Ed Alvarez wrote: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 06:55:08 -0700 Subject: RE rear bolt on fuel tank >From: dbobeck@ushmm.org >Date: Thu, 15 Oct 98 12:21:58 -0500 >Subject: Re[2]: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK >>Keith, >>I would put the bolt in with the threads up. That way they are protected >>from beind deformed by a rock, and therefor easier to remove at a later time. >>Bob B >Well Bob, actually if you managed to hit *that* bolt with a rock then the >Subject: Re[2]: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK >>Keith, tnak >will likely have already been removed for you... >Otherwise its a perfectly sound suggestion. >cheers >dave >>from beind deformed by a rock, and therefor easier to remove at a later You're right of course! Without looking underneath, I spoke while thinking about any bolt that points down getting the threads damaged. Forgot the tank lip is up a bit. Thankyou for straightening me out. Bob B - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 10:20:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Defrost Fan FS Hi All- I ordered a fan for my rover to help with defrosting. The place I bought it through had to order two, so there is one there for sale. The fan is all metal w/chrome guard, Al fan blades, die-cast 360 degree swivel base, and puts out 250 cfm. It fits perfectly between my dash vents, and can blow on either window or on either passenger. It also has a variable speed control. This is the type of fan you find in busses or semi's - it is not a plastic el-cheapo model. The people who make them, supply parts when needed. I'm just trying to help this guy out, he has been pretty nice to me in the past. Contact me off list if you are interested. Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 10:28:11 EDT Subject: Re: Defrost Fan FS In a message dated 10/16/98 10:23:30 AM, you wrote: <<I ordered a fan for my rover to help with defrosting.>> [snip] <<It fits perfectly between my dash vents, and can blow on either window or on either passenger.>> If your passengers need defrosting, it is time to park the rover and build a fire under it for warmth ;-) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 98 08:42:55 -0700 Subject: Re: question about tyre inflation and mud >i would like to ask about going off road into mud, > would decreasing tyre inflation help traction on mud, especially the clay >type of mud? Wet sticky clay is nasty stuff to be driving in. The good news is that it has enough structure that you normally do not sink into it unless you sit in one place and spin your tyres until you did a deep enough hole. The bad news is that you have next to no traction so steering is very iffy and you can get stuck on very gentle uphill slopes with one wheel at each end slipping. It does an excellent job of sticking to tyres creating a clay belt around the outside of the tyre. Once you are dealing with a smooth wet clay tyre surface on a wet clay ground you have very little traction and steering becomes very iffy. Mud tyres sold for street use will almost always quickly clog up in sticky clay. The military tyres and special off pavement only tyres are about the only things I know of that will throw off sticky wet clay. I have found that the Quafe limited slip up front helps keep me sorta going in the general direction that I point the front tyres. It has saved me from getting good & stuck on wet clay a few times. The best driving method I have found so far to keep from sliding off a wet sticky clay trail is to put my tyres in an existing rut and use them like rails to keep my car going in the correct general direction. Of course this assumes that the ruts are not too deep. We are dealing with a large weight on a slick surface, so the more momentum you build up the harder it will be to turn it. I generally take wet sticky clay very slowly so that if the car does decide to follow it's vector rather than change it to where I want to turn, I will get into a minimum of trouble. I think there would be some similarities to ice driving when the ice is not level. Airing down tyres helps where you want to widen a tyre's grip or spread the weight of your car over a wider surface to keep from sinking and burying the diffs. I do not think it will be of any help in wet sticky clay when your traction is a thick clay tyre belt on clay. I'm sure that there are many people eager to correct me if I am wrong. If the clay is wet enough it starts acting more like mud and good streetable mud tyres can clear themselves and get some traction. The airing down can help in that situation. If the clay surface is just surface wet, you may be better off cutting down to the dry hopefully less slippery surface. One of the fun things about mud is that there are so many different kinds and each takes some what different techniques to successfully drive through. Happy trails TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 08:48:48 PDT Subject: Series Hard top for D90? I have been told that an aluminium hard top from the old Series Land Rovers will fit on the Defender 90's. Does anybody know of any place that I can final one of these old hard tops or have one that they want to sell? I am really wnting to replace the POS plastic hard top and the PITA soft top on my '94 D90. Please reply to my e-mail address as I am not currently on the list. goin4xn@hotmail.com Thanks Russ Phillips - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 12:06 -0500 Subject: RE: question about tyre inflation and mud > I have found that the Quafe limited slip up front helps keep > me sorta going in the general direction that I point the front I am very interested in learning about what different diff lockers are available for standard SIII axles. I would like something that is a limited slip instead of a solid locker, but I really don't know what all is available to us. As far as clay type mud (we call it gumbo in Mississippi, as that's about the most common type)... I will agree with TerriAnn here... keep them aired up, and they will throw off the mud better than if they aren't... Something that I have found is that while working uphill (VERY DIFFICULT if it's steep enough) the sides of the tires are what give you most of your traction... good tires in this case are something like the original tires... TracEdges or something to that effect... I have Cooper Discoverer STT's... great side traction for the mud... Using the sides of the tires for traction involves a lot of side to side steering very fast (this is when you are moving slowly or stuck, not while actually moving!!!) - Of course by this time, Tread Lightly has been violated, and there is mud in every nook and cranny in your rover... but hey... it's fun... -Scott - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net> Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 19:07:01 -0700 Subject: Re: question about tyre inflation and mud Driving in slippery clay mud........ Chains work really good in this situation. Cheers David Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old 1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD" S/V KALAKALA - our home, ketch rigged wahooadv@earthlink.net >hello list, >i would like to ask about going off road into mud, > would decreasing tyre inflation help traction on mud, especially the clay >type of mud? i ask because recently on my way back from our farm, i was >driving along the ridge of some rice fields to get to the road from inside >the farm and i slipped into the the canal of the field, on wheel was in the >canal and the other tyres couldn't get enough traction to back up. had to [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)] >thank you, >Ed Alvarez - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 13:25:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Defrost Fan FS >>It fits perfectly between my dash vents, and >>can blow on either window or on either passenger. >If your passengers need defrosting, it is time to park the rover and build a >fire under it for warmth ;-) I'll tell ya man, some people in that thing really need a defrost! They are totally baffeled by the fact that I drive a 35 year old aliminum box, and especially since it's a RHD! My previous SO would have prefered to build a fire underneath it though!!! Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 18:55:37 +0100 Subject: RE: Disco steel wheels - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 98 11:08:14 -0700 Subject: RE: question about tyre inflation and mud <SNIP> >most of your traction... good tires in this case are ;>something like the original tires... TracEdges or something ;>to that effect... <SNIP> Track edges look like they are street tread in the middle with the mud terrain outer cleats on both outside edges. As near as I have been able to tell from reading B.F. Goodrich tyre brochures the trackedge has their light truck sidewalls. Their armored sidewalls are only listed in the brochure for the all terrains and the mud terrains. I know from experience that the outside cleats of my mud terrains clog up in sticky clay too. That only makes them of slight use when working the front wheels side to side in the goo. I suspect that if wet sticky clay is a common place for you to drive a tyre like the super swampers with tread on the side walls would be your best bet. As far as your requested data points for limited slip, I think the Quaife up front is great. The quaife kicks in gradually so that you do not feel it. The car steering does not react to it engaging. The only way I can tell it is there is that the car goes where I point it much better and the front handles obsticals better. In my opinion, next to the Salisbury rear, the Quafe up front is the best mod on the drive train. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Matthew J. Clement" <matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 19:01:34 +0100 Subject: UK License Plates Available Several months ago I offered to provide a set of UK license plates for a member on this list, and was innundated with requests for other plates. Thanks to the miracles of modern technology, I have arranged to accept credit cards, which makes any transaction much easier, and limits risks to both parties. As a result, I am once again able to offer custom UK license plates *AT COST* to those who would like them to add a touch of authenticity to their vehicles. I can provide any combination of letters and numbers (subject to space, of course) and can provide new or old style plates. If you would like more information or prices, or would like to order a set for your Land Rover, please visit my web site: http://www.home-mac.demon.co.uk/ukplates/index.htm Again, this is not a business to make money, but a genuine service for other - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 08:32:41 -1000 Subject: Re: Diesel back to petrol cconversion. Aloha Alan, I was kind of curious if you had any ideas as to what type of V-8? Something from an old Range Rover that would mostly bolt right up or something different that would require adapters to fit to the tranny? I have an old mag liying around that has an article discussing how to modify the friction plate on the RR V-8 to fit it with a 2A transmission. I can scan and send if ya like Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 08:34:10 -1000 Subject: Re: Scale Diagrams >good drawings in the factory repair manual, with quite a few measurements. >At least, in the SIII manual. Excellent. Do you have a scanner by chance? Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 19:42:21 +0100 Subject: Series III rocksliders.............. My 1978 SIII 109" is in dire need of some replacement sills.....I just keep bending/cracking/deforming them.....I'm in the UK, so has anyone here any good experience of STRONG replacement systems...aka rock sliders etc? Cost and supplier would be VERY nice like...............I know I can look up some ads, but I want to know if anyone has used any types etc....(how can I persuade the wife to part with more cash if I can't say X has them and he SAYS there good!) Neil SIII 109" 1978 - 'The Rancor' - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 08:51:49 -1000 Subject: Re: Series Hard top for D90? >I have been told that an aluminium hard top from the old Series Land >Rovers will fit on the Defender 90's. Luis Manuel Gutierrez, from the list, has a D90 that has a series hard top. But it also has the older Series split front windscreen. The window frame on the Defenders is taller then the Series vehicles, so this would need changing. He recently mentioned going away for a bit and I don't remember if he was going off list. Also becasue the 90 has 4.4 inches more wheelbase then a Series I think the cab is is a couple of inches longer also. Never measured so not exactly sure where. Any way I believe you would have to cut and stretch the Series top to fit. Most likely the easiest place would be between the door and the window. Finally, is this a NAS 90? If so you also have the roll bar to worry about. Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 09:15:52 -1000 Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers >TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: >As near as I have been able >to tell from reading B.F. Goodrich tyre brochures the trackedge has their >light truck sidewalls. Their armored sidewalls are only listed in the >brochure for the all terrains and the mud terrains. This is correct. The Trac Edge is a 2 ply sidewall tire designed for commercial applications. That is one reason is only comes in 16 and 16.5 sizes. As a commercial tire is is also designed to last longer, so they use a slightly harder rubber compound to get more milage from them. The A/T, M/T, Baja, and Moabs are the only BFG's with the triple ply sidewalls. Notice this is all sidewall related, all tires have three in the tread. >The quaife kicks in gradually so that you do not feel >it. In my opinion, next to the Salisbury >rear, the Quafe up front is the best mod on the drive train. I have not seen the Quafe listed in any of the US parts books, who carries them? You mention that it was a limited slip I think, anyone have any experience with true lockers? TA, are you running fixed or select hubs? If fixed, have you noticed any difference in the steering on the tarmac? I was told long ago that you could run a straight locker in the front of a vehicle with select hubs. When on the pavement the hubs are out so it's not an issue. When off pavement the whole front is locked, any thoughts on this? Does the Salsbury rear have a locker/limited slip in it, or is it just stronger? I am thinking of running an ARB rear, hubs and full lock in front (weld the spiders to the carrier?). My Rover will be going back Mainland when we leave in 2001 and we will most likely end up in SoCal. So I will be doing mostly rock/canyon and desert driving. Don't think I will see much gumbo. It is because of the cross axle stuff so prominent in the South West that I am thinking lockers. Would love to hear some opinions on this one. Mahalo Pete 70 IIa 88" (picking it up tomorrow morning. Yeeeehaaaw) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 15:29 -0500 Subject: RE: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers > So I will be doing > mostly rock/canyon and desert driving. If you will be seeing lots of rock, it seems that you would want a limited slip in the front. If not, steering will be a bit tough if you are on solid rock. To answer your question about TerriAnn's setup (I was just looking at her page to answer those same questions) She has the Quaife limited slip up front, A Salisbury Rear Axle, and ARB lockers back there... Yup... she definately needs a beefier engine. -Scott - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 14:03:31 -0700 Subject: Boston area Roverisms and glow plug timers. I'll be visiting Boston, MA. USA next week and was curious if any locals could suggest rover worthy things to do. I called RN and found they are 3.5 hours away so I thought I'd go up and check that out. I'll have a car for several day's as well as some time on my hands. suggestions appreciated. The second question I have is for the electronics folks. The diesel glow plugs on my truck aren't wired through the key switch. There is a heavy duty switch that powers a relay that energizes the glow plugs. I'd like to come up with a timer that would shut the current off to the relay, and as a result the heavy current to the plugs, after a set time (60-90 sec.) I was kicking around the idea of using a seatbelt warning buzzer used on some cars. I don't know that the length of time those buzzers run would be close and doubt they offer any adjustment. I wondered if any of you had any ideas for an inexpensive timer I could build or source. anyone? Thanks in advance. tew - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 16:19:27 -0700 Subject: Re: question about tyre inflation and mud From: Ed Alvarez <alvarez@btnmail.mozcom.com> Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 00:56:21 +0800 Subject: question about tyre inflation and mud > i would like to ask about going off road into mud, would decreasing tyre inflation help traction on mud, especially the clay type of mud? Reducing the air pressure in your tires will help you negotiate surfaces where the tires would tend to sink in and bog down. Examples of this are soft sand, deep mud, boggy ground, tundra, etc. Reducing the air pressure simply increases the "footprint" of your tire, thus distributing the weight of the vehicle over a greater area. By dispersing the weight somewhat, the tires have less of a tendency to sink straight down and dig in. The broader contact area between the tire and the surface also gives you better traction. If the mud you are referring to is deep or very soft, reducing the tire pressure would certainly increase your chances of getting through it. However, in Hawaii, the fine volcanic soil in the mountains turned to an almost Vaseline-like goo when it rained, although the dirt underneath remained firm. There, the problem wasn't staying on top of the surface, but maintaining traction. The tires didn't sink in; the treads simply filled with the slick mud and spun helplessly on the hard surface below, turning it to a thin, slippery layer of goo as well. It was very frustrating as it made it impossible to climb hills which were a snap when the roads were dry. I'm not sure reducing air pressure would have helped much in that situation. The only thing that really worked was a winch or another vehicle with a rope. I've not had much experience with clay, but I suspect it may react the same way as the fine volcanic soil in Hawaii. Thinking back, I almost think tire chains would have been the most effective way of increasing traction on those slick-surfaced, but hard roads. While filming earlier this year in the sand dunes outside Dubai, UAE, our professional driver got the brand new Toyota Land Cruiser we had hired stuck in the sand, which is very fine, unlike beach sand which is quite coarse in comparison. Even standing in it caused us to sink in up to our ankles. The driver let a little pressure out of the tires, only a few pounds, but it was enough to get us going again. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 17:16:24 -0600 Subject: Guide to Fuse Replacement Hi All! Go to http:/www.cwizard.com/narma/tech/tech12.htm for a laugh!! Art 1960 SII "Aardvark" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 20:50:11 -0300 Subject: Re: Boston area Roverisms and glow plug timers. Todd Wilson wrote: > I'll be visiting Boston, MA. USA next week and was curious if any > locals could suggest rover worthy things to do. I called RN and found > they are 3.5 hours away so I thought I'd go up and check that out. > I'll have a car for several day's as well as some time on my hands. > suggestions appreciated. [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)] > Thanks in advance. > tew Ford Diesel 1/2 ton pickups use a timer on the glow plug circuit maybe you can find one in an auto wreckers some where on your travels. John and Muddy - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 20:46:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Boston area Roverisms and glow plug timers. Re: Timed heat: There's a simple way to do this - it's called a timed relay. If you take a look in any good electronics parts catalogue you'll find 'em - most are even adjustable as to the time period that you want. They're also available in 12 and 24 volt versions - not sure what you're putting it in... ajr/Boston, MA. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 18:51:52 -0600 Subject: RE:Guide to Fuse replacement OOPS!! Go to http:/www.cwizard.com/narma/tech/tech12.htm for a laugh!! Try this one instead (forgot a "/" in the URL above) http"//www.cwizard.com/narma/tech/tech12.htm Damn computers are fussy at times!!!! Art 1960 SII "Aardvark" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 98 18:01:20 -0700 Subject: Re: Mud Tires and Diff Lockers >TA, are you running fixed or select hubs? If fixed, have you noticed any >difference in the steering on the tarmac? ; I have Selectro hubs. However I frequently drive on pavment with the hubs locked to make sure the top swivel pin is properly lubercated. When in 2 wheel drive, I have noticed no difference in steering that could be caused by the Quafe when the hubs are locked or unlocked ;>I was told long ago that you could run a straight locker in the front of a ;>vehicle with select hubs. When on the pavement the hubs are out so it's not ;>an issue. When off pavement the whole front is locked, any thoughts on ;>this? Take it off road at least once a week to lubercate the upper swivel pins. ;>Does the Salsbury rear have a locker/limited slip in it, or is it just ;>stronger? No. At this time the rear Salisbury does not have a limited slip or locker. With the Quafe helping both front wheels climb I have not felt a need for one to get me from point A to point B. However, I have broken one front axle during the year that the Quafe has been installed. If I break another I may consider a rear locker to try to distribute the traction a little better between front and rear in the hopes that it would ease some of the stress on the front axles. I would look for stronger front axle shafts first. Since I seem to be able to go everywhere I want to go, I do not feel a need to add a rear locker to get more places. In 20 years I have broken 6 rear LR axles on the Green Rover. The Salisbury has much stronger axles. ;>I am thinking of running an ARB rear, hubs and full lock in front (weld the ;>spiders to the carrier?). My Rover will be going back Mainland when we ;>leave in 2001 and we will most likely end up in SoCal. So I will be doing ;>mostly rock/canyon and desert driving. Don't think I will see much gumbo. ;>It is because of the cross axle stuff so prominent in the South West that I ;>am thinking lockers. Would love to hear some opinions on this one. Before you spend the money, try driving with open diffs & see if you really need the lockers. I got the Quafe primarily for clay. Give the rock crawling & desert driving a fair try with open hubs & see if they work for you. The lockers are another expensive point of stress. Its COOL to be able to say "Hey I got Air Lockers!" but is is an added expense, an added system to break and may encurage you to drive into something that you really shouldn't Good luck on what you decide. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 18:56:09 -0600 Subject: RE:Guide to fuse replacement OOPS!! Go to http://www.cwizard.com/narma/tech/tech12.htm for a laugh!! Third times the charm-need a HTML checker as well as a spell checker!!! Damn computers are fussy at times!!!!-Sorry about the wasted bandwidth!! Art 1960 SII "Aardvark" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 18:53:38 Subject: Re: Diff Lockers I don't have any personal experience with front lockers but seem to remember that they cause problems off road. Something about the front end not going where you want it and a tendency to slide downhill when traversing a slope. Others may have first hand experience. Did you buy the crunched rover from Wayne???? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 19:52:13 -1000 Subject: Re: Diff Lockers > Did you buy the crunched rover from Wayne???? Yeap :-) Got the front 4 feet of a frame and front springs lying about? haha Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981017 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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