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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:24:43 EDT
Subject: Re: electrical fault in my discovery

In a message dated 10/13/98 5:49:10 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
larbec@nor.com.au writes:

 will not idle and seems to only want to run on 2 or 3 cylinders. >>

It shouldn't idle at all; it should just stop running, IMHO. That's generally
the effect you're after when you switch it off. Idling is greatly enhanced by
not switching it off.

--pat.

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 06:48:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Applying Waxoyl Q's

Hi Vel,
 Well I use waxoil cut 60/40 with mineral spirits & then spray inside
the frame.  I rarely use this on the outside.  I apply with a an
undercoating gun from the Whitney catalog.  Anything you coat with
waxoil will not take pain well with out cleaning.

Hope that helps you

Regards,
  Rob

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From: "HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:41:24 -0600
Subject: Iron Dukes?

     
      When you say "Iron Dukes" I assume you mean the Mercruiser?  I know 
     that somebody beside Robt. Davis is doing them but I don't know who. 
     Make sure you put the right cam in it because the boat cam is very 
     different than what you need for road performance.
     
     So where did you source them, or is that an impertinent question?
     
     Cole Stage
     '67 IIA ambulance "Hefelump" (as in, it is as big as a ...)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 98 05:52:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Rims... sorry to bring it up again...

><< Disco steel rims or the NATO rims that
> Atlantic British sells? >>
>Scott,
;>over here we have Disco steels on everything from Ser (my Son) with
;>freewheeling hubs, to 110 (mine).
;>They're dead cheap because all Discos were delivered to dealers on 
steels and
;>if they were to have alis the dealer had to fit 'em. As just about 
everyone
;>wanted posing alis there are lots of steels no-one  except those of us 
in the
;>know, want.

I also have the 7 inch wide stamped slotted steel Disco wheels on my 109. 
 Mine were takeoffs from a Disco that was accidently delivered to a 
California dealer without alloys so I got them as 'take offs' at a good 
price. I personaly think that they are the best looking of the factory 
steel wheels.  At 7 inches they are the widest.  I think British Pacific 
is carrying them now as well.  Check around for prices & check your local 
dealer to see if anymore Dicos snuck into the country with steel wheels.

;>I've got General Grabbers 235/85s on mine. Dunno the exact height, but 
they
;>are the same as 7.50s.

I have 265/75/16 B.F. Goodrich mud terrains on mine.  I believe that they 
are 32 inches in dia.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:02:02 -0400
Subject: "*%&$#" Brakes

ADVICE NEEDED!!!!

After dis-assembling the series 1 last weekend (which took about 9 hrs and
3 cans of rust-buster) I finally got "her" down to a rolling chassis.
Amazingly enough the chasis and bulkhead are in great shape. Very minimal
rust on the chassis and verly little (if you can believe it) rust on the
bulkhead. Now, my next task was to pull the brake drums. unfortunately they
had a go of rust on them and would not slide off the hub. (surprise !
surprise ! Right) Anyway, I got a little (ok a lot )frustrated and had to
justr walk away before I reaches the sledgehammer. Any advice on loosing
these #%#$ things up to where I can slide them off?

Oh, on a lighter note when I hooked the battery to her and bypasses the
ignition she turned over with no problem. didn't get any fire , but that
will com later!!!

cheers,
christopher d
95 Disco
55 Ser 1 86"

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:22:30 -0400
Subject: Re: "*%&$#" Brakes

3 things to use in this.

1. Heat - lots of it.
2. Back the adjusters all the way off.
3. A coarse-threaded grade-5 bolt in the release hole on the brake drum.

Heat. Tighten the bolt. Tap. Heat. Tighten the bolt. Tap.

With the combination of heat, pressure and vibration they can be made to move.

BTW, notice I said TAP - not sledghammer the living S$^% out of the drum. You
want vibration - not tectonic shock....

                         ajr

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 98 06:28:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Iron Duke conversion

>Got a line on three Iron Dukes.  Cross flow heads, FREE
;
>Is Scotty still making a conversion plate?
;
yes

;>What is the best way to contact him?

Telephone - 925-686-2255

;>Are the engine mounts available or easy to fabricate?

Have a long phone conversation with Scotty.

;>Other than Rob Davis and who does this conversion?

Timm Cooper in Oregon makes a conversion plate that goes between a Borg 
Warner T-18 four speed with granny low transmission and the LR transfer 
case.  This would allow you to use the Iron Duke engine, a stock 
bellhousing that is compatable with both the engine and transmission and 
the LR transfer case which lines up the drive shafts properly.  The 
finished product leaves all the shifter knobs in the same place and 
provides a VERY strong transmission with a killer low rock crawling gear.

Sorry I do not have Timm's current phone number.

;>About what will it cost?

How long is a string?  Cost will depend upon what you do, and how much of 
the work you do yourself.

Good luck!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "Cutler Family" <cutler_family@ibm.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:26:47 -0600
Subject: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

I've never had a stock fuel tank until now since my Rover's original one had
been bashed before we got it twenty years ago.  (The PO built a
diamond-plate tank and bolted it in the bed.)  Now, during my frame-off
restoration, I'm bolting the new Series tank in and have a question
regarding the orientation of the single, real bolt.  The manuals show it
going in from the top, but the bolt head and the large, round, flat washer
are too large for the flange on the outrigger.  It works fine from the
bottom though, since the gas tank flange is much wider.  If bolted from the
bottom up, however, which way to place the rectangular washer that has the
lip on it?  Flat against the outrigger flange?  This is not that big of a
deal, I realize, but I thought there would be someone with an opinion and/or
experience in which way would be the best.

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II with one clear, flat Lucas lens in front (others missing) and
two red, flat Lucas lenses in rear (others missing).

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:42:39 -0400
Subject: Re: "*%&$#" Brakes

Thanks for the info ! That's the reason that I had to walk away because I
knew that usually nothing good (or re-useable) comes out of operating with
a sledgehammer. Looks like it's time to buy that torch my wife said I
didn't need.

chreers,
cfd

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:44:42 EDT
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

In a message dated 10/14/98 12:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
slade@DreamLab.cc writes:

<< Does anyone know if LRO or LRM has an e-mail address? >>

LRO's e-mail is listed on the masthead page and LRM has a web page with an e-
mail form at http://www.lrm.co.uk/

Gerry

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:41:33 -0600
Subject: broke locking hubs

Hi all!

Anybody out there convert to free wheeling hubs and still have the old
bits (plate which connect axle shaft to hub-can't think of proper name
and the bolts?

The springs internal on my AVM hubs have broken (got a piece of wood in
there to keep 'em locked. Want to convert back to original. Keep hubs
locked from October to May anyway so 4wd is easy to get into if it
snows.

Glad to  pay a reasonable price plus shipping.

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:47:50 EDT
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

In a message dated 10/14/98 6:46:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
GElam30092@aol.com writes:

<< LRO's e-mail is listed on the masthead page >>

Sorry... should have said that I'm already at work and don't have it in front
of me.

Gerry

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 09:49:18 -0400
Subject: Re: broke locking hubs

Art, where you at? If you're in the Northeast just come on up the house and I'll
find you a pair of drive plates...

                    ajr

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 98 06:58:13 -0700
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

Keith,
The flanges on the front fuel tank go on the underside of the frame 
outriggers allowing you to drop the tank out from underneath the car.  If 
you set the tank flanges on top of the outriggers you will have to 
partially disassemble the body to replace the tank.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:21:32 +0000
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

><< LRO's e-mail is listed on the masthead page >>
>Sorry... should have said that I'm already at work and don't have it in front
>of me.
>Gerry

Used to be lro@maxcom.demon.co.uk but looking at the current issue
it isnt at all clear whether its still the same.there's website at
http://www.lroi.com or so they say.
LRM I havent a clue,I'm afraid.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 07:49:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

Mike wrote...

>Used to be lro@maxcom.demon.co.uk but looking at the current issue
>it isnt at all clear whether its still the same.there's website at
>http://www.lroi.com or so they say.

Well, it's not what they say it is then.  :(

>LRM I havent a clue,I'm afraid.

Thanks.

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
www.DreamLab.cc

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 08:45:49 -0700
Subject: Re: broke locking hubs

Art we will give you a couple if you pay the shipping.

Ray

----------

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 06:47:00 -1000
Subject: P-metric tire sizes

>I have 265/75/16 B.F. Goodrich mud terrains on mine.  I believe that they
>are 32 inches in dia.

Just incase people don't know.

With P-metric tire sizing (265/75r16) the first number is the width of the
tire cross section.  This is at the widest part of the sidewall not the
tread.  This number is measured in milimeters.  The next number is a
percentage and relates the side wall height.  For this example the side wall
is 75% of 265mm or 198.75mm.  Just convert from mm to inches to get the
diemter and width of the tire.  For our example:
198.75/25.4=7.8
7.8*2 (both side walls) + 16 (rim) = 31.6" total diameter
265/25.4= 10.4 section width

so our tire is equivalant to a 31.6 - 10.4 R 16 tire.

Remember that the measurements of the actual tire mounted on the rim will
very based upon rim width.  The literature from the tire manufacturer
usually states what size rim was used.

This also kinda' shows one reason that some people like the 15" rim over the
16". . . 15" tires come in a greater variety of sizes, and larger ones.
Also for the same diemeter tire a 15" rim gives you 1/2" more side wall then
a 16" which helps over rocks and also is a softer ride.

just my $.02
Pete

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:55:45 +0200
Subject: Engine serial Nos.

Is there a web site that will help me decode engine nos., diff and gearbox
model nos.

I am trying to determine how "original" these are on my SI '80.

 
Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'51-52 SI 80"

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:56:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Off road and falling off a cliff 

>If anyone's got any advice on what else I should check on the drive 
>train and engine after my adventure I would be grateful.

>Gordon Endersby
>Avery muddy 110 with an engine hanging out.

check the nut behind the steering wheel...

sounds like fun.
later
dave

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From: John <john109@geocities.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 10:21:29 -0700
Subject: LRM website   www.lrm.co.uk

They can be reached via email at hq@lrm.co.uk

The editor is Richard Howell-Thomas, a founder of LRO.  His non-compete
agreement recently expired so he is back in the LR magazine business.

Send them info on your club for their club listing.

He is always interested in technical articles and offroad action events so
if you've got some good pictures and a story to tell you should contact him.

John

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:32:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine serial Nos.

Oh just grind 'em off and make some new ones...

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:52:55 +0200
Subject: RE: Engine serial Nos.

|Oh just grind 'em off and make some new ones...
|"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"
||Bill Adams

Hey, I could then "practise the ancient oriental art of guessing" when I
need replacement parts :-)

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From: Ketil Oftedahl <ketil.oftedahl@datapoint.no>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:54:29 +0200
Subject: Re: Engine serial Nos.

Riaan Botes wrote:
> Is there a web site that will help me decode engine nos.,
> diff and gearbox model nos.

The commencing serial numbers for chassis, engines, and front and rear
axles for every model year are listed in the Series 1 Workshop Manual.

I may put it on a web page  -  but not today.
Just send me the serial numbers if you'd like me to look them up for
you.

Ketil

'54 SI 86"
'73 SIII 109"

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From: PAUL HANSON <HANSONPA@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:31:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: MOTOR WEEK?

I know.  I looked too and there was no LR.  I called PBS and they told me
that my diesel Land Rover would be featured as their "car of the week" on
PROGRAM #1805.  Here [in good ol' Milwaukee] that would mean I'd see it
Oct. 29th!  You'd have to check for your local times and date.  Hope you
see her!
	sincerely,
	Paul Hanson

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:56:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Chassis No info?

<< I have the contact as Mr. John Riley.  Which is correct?  I am about 
to send a fax off to them and I'd like to get the correct contact name. 
 I have been given the fax no. +44 121 742-1927. I note there is a 
different exchange prefix too - 700 vs 742.  It's easy enough to check 
that - I can just dial the numbers.  The important thing is the name of 
the Project Engineer. >> 

 Eric Pagan phoned me on Friday. He is researching my Landie but needed 
a copy of the V5 (log book -pink slip to Americans). The Fax number he 
gave me to Fax the info to him is:0121-742-0738.

 Hope this helps,
 
 Paul

 Tue, 13 Oct 1998 16:15

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

Michael,
the editorial email address for LRO is: 

margaret.way@ecm.emap.com

this gets you to the editorial assistant, Margaret Way. 

the oft-quoted website of www.lroi.com belongs to the bookshop which is a
separate business.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:33:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Rims... sorry to bring it up again...

In a message dated 14/10/98 13:51:12 BST, you write:

<<  I think British Pacific 
 is carrying them now as well.  Check around for prices & check your local 
 dealer to see if anymore Dicos snuck into the country with steel wheels. >>
probably got 'em from some UK dealers as well!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:33:29 EDT
Subject: Re: SII Radiator cap

The loose cap alone is enough to give you cooling problems, I hope you
checked?

Zack Arbios

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:18:48 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: SII Radiator cap

Hey folks,
The loose cap is on a radiator that's NOT installed in Mrs. M., so I'd be
surprised if it were causing overheating probs., seein' as how it's sitting on
my porch.

Bill

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:23:07 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Rubbers

<< The rainy season has finally arrived in BC... >>

 How can you tell ?  
 
 Torrential rain instead of drizzle?  G,D, & R.
 
 I would love to live in Victoria. Being a Brit I already have the wet 
weather gear...

 Paul

 Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:02

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:28:13 -0700
Subject: Victoria Showers (little LR)

	Paul Lonsdale writes:<< The rainy season has finally arrived in
BC... >>
	 How can you tell ?  
	 
	 Torrential rain instead of drizzle?  G,D, & R.

Actually, Victoria has had virtually no rain since early June.  Drought
conditions in Victoria (and the rest of BC) during the summer are the norm.
We get about 26 inches of rain a year (half the amount that Vancouver gets)
almost all of which falls between October and June.  

So every June we through a big roof removal party and unbolt all the Land
Rover hard tops and don't put them back on 'till late September!

You are right though, the climate is very similar to southern England,  some
say more like norther France though...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:40:51 -0600
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

TeriAnn,

Thanks for the reply.  I understand that the flanges on the fuel tank go
underneath the flanges on the outriggers.  In fact, there is no other
option since the outrigger flanges face away from the tank (on my
frame), thus making it impossible to place the fuel tank flanges on
top.  The problem is the flange (shaped like an "L") is not as wide on
the bottom as the bolt head and definitely not as wide as the round
metal washer.  So if you look at the picture in the manual:  the bolt
comes down from the top -> through a large round metal washer -> through
the outrigger flange -> through a rubber washer -> through the tank
flange -> through a rubber washer -> through the rectangular, lipped
washer -> through a lock washer -> into the nut.  If I do it this way
the bolt is held askew by the large washer's poor fit on the outrigger
flange.  However, if I start from the bottom heading upwards, in the
same order, it all works fine.

Like I said in my original post, it is not a big deal.  I guess I just
wondered if anyone else had the same "problem" and was interested in how
they "solved" it.

Thanks again.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 13:40:22 -0700
Subject: RE: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

My 'new' tank that arrived from Britain last year did not fit well at all.
I was later (on this list) told that LR changed the spacing between the
outriggers some time late in the SIIA production run.  All new tanks are
made to the later spec's  (about 1/2 inch longer?)  

I just elongated the holes with my dremmel and all was well, if not a bit
tight still...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 16:55 -0500
Subject: RE: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

My tank took quite a bit of fanagleing to get on... the rear bolt
went down from the outrigger, through both rubber washers,
through the tank flange, and then the square washer and the bolt.

 -Scott  

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 15:13:43 -0600
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

One last post from me on this topic:  The only reason I wanted help on
the bolt "problem" was that this is the first part I've tried to put
back onto the Rover during the restoration process AND I COULDN'T EVEN
DO THIS TASK ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTIONS!  Made me wonder what I'll face
with serious tasks such as putting the distributor in or adjusting the
brakes!

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II in countless, painted, lovely pieces

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 17:28 -0500
Subject: RE: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

> Made me wonder what I'll face
> with serious tasks such as putting the distributor in or adjusting
> the brakes!

What were you thinking? =:) Don't know about the distributor, but
the brakes... don't count on it being easy. I've had to do a bit of
"re-engineering" on almost everything I've done to the rover so far.

 -Scott  

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 17:32:45 EDT
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

Feel the force Keith,  most of the respondents want to help even though they
haven't really paid attention to the post.  You can get answers to simple or
complex questions, but you have to sort out whether or not your correspondent
actually knows more than you or understands the problem. 

If you relax and go back to first principles each time and pay attention to
the way these things go together and the why, you won't have any problems.
After all your rig was made to be field stripped in the savage jungle with
nothing but a 12" adjustable wrench and a swiss army knife.  Kinda makes the
garage look cozy and safe doesn't it?

Zack Arbios

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 17:34 -0500
Subject: Any info on rebuilding brakes?

I'm planning on rebuilding my wheel cylinders this weekend... My
front brakes are pulling sometimes one way, sometimes another,
and I figure it's because of the cylinders. Got the cylinder rebuild
kits from RN, and should have them for this weekend.

Another thing that I noticed was that after a weekend of crazyness
in NH and VT, I am now having to refill the brake reservior fairly
often. There were some steep slopes that I was holding on to
dear life with, and I figure that any weak spots would have definately
gotten worked through VERY well. By the end of the day I was
having to double pump to get a good solid pedal.

I am wondering if there are any resources on the web that you may
know about of personal experiences... the manual is one thing,
but reading through someone else's process has always helped
me out.

I also ordered a couple of litres of Girling fluid, so I will have the
correct fluid for this one.

Should I have also ordered pads since I will have everything taken
apart? whether they need them or not?

thanks for any insight

 -Scott  

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: E-mail address for LRO?

>Michael,
>the editorial email address for LRO is:
>margaret.way@ecm.emap.com
>this gets you to the editorial assistant, Margaret Way.
>the oft-quoted website of www.lroi.com belongs to the bookshop which is a
>separate business.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>the oft-quoted website of www.lroi.com belongs to the bookshop which is a
>separate business.

Thanks for the help.

Talk to you later!

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
www.DreamLab.cc

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 08:11:12 +1000
Subject: Re: gearbox/tranfercase oil and lwb brakes

I have heard of people drilling out the walls between the transfer case and
the gearbox on a series vehicle (a couple of 3/8 holes) to allow the oil to
freely flow between them - the pumpimg action of the gearbox output shaft
pushes the oil into the transfer case past a worn seal, but the worn seal
is still good enough to stop it flowing back (for war read, worn, ill
fitting, bad shaft etc)

I have not done it myself but it sounds OK

Lwb 6 cyl vehicles had twin leading shoes on the front - thus 2 cylinders
(same on stage 1)
swb fron cylinders are interchangable with LWB back except for very early
ser1 (at least on any I've owned)

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:28:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Any info on rebuilding brakes?

In a message dated 14/10/98 22:35:24 BST, you write:

 I'm planning on rebuilding my wheel cylinders this weekend... My
 front brakes are pulling sometimes one way, sometimes another,
 and I figure it's because of the cylinders. Got the cylinder rebuild
 kits from RN, and should have them for this weekend.
 
 Another thing that I noticed was that after a weekend of crazyness
 in NH and VT, I am now having to refill the brake reservior fairly
 often. There were some steep slopes that I was holding on to
 dear life with, and I figure that any weak spots would have definately
 gotten worked through VERY well. By the end of the day I was
 having to double pump to get a good solid pedal.
 
 I also ordered a couple of litres of Girling fluid, so I will have the
 correct fluid for this one.
 
 Should I have also ordered pads since I will have everything taken
 apart? whether they need them or not?
  >>
Scott,
my first thought on yr first para was that one brake cylinder might be
leaking.
My second thought, having seen your second para was that one of your brake
cylinders may be leaking.....

I always have a spare set of shoes/pads (early 110 with both kindsa brakes) on
hand - you never know when you are going to need them - and if one of your
brake cylinders is leaking all over one set of shoes...... well, we're back
into set fire to them with petrol/burn them with blowtorch country ain't we?

Anyway, a day at Solihull at the "Search for A Legend" final followed by three
days off-roading awaits (smirk) so time for bed..

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:28:25 EDT
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

In a message dated 14/10/98 22:34:32 BST, you write:

<< field stripped in the savage jungle with
 nothing but a 12" adjustable wrench and a swiss army knife. >>

don't I wish - about the swiss army knife. Have you ever seen the knife that
was issued to the British Army in the fifties and sixties?? It still had the
thing for getting stones out of a horse's hooves. a blade and.... er... that's
it.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 06:52:23 -0400
Subject: Re: RE Burning no. 4 valves

The Stockdales wrote:

> Thanks for all the input regarding my No. 4 valve problem.

Did you have a double acting thermostat in the Dinosaur or the single acting
"flat "type. If you had the latter type that could have been your
problem.Lack of flow and over heating at no. four pot is a symtom.

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From: "William S. Parker" <wildbill@wxs.nl>
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 01:56:01 +0100
Subject: Overdrives

Hi All,

I've been lurking on this list for about six months, and think it's
great. Never had anything pertinent to say, so I didn't. Now, I am faced
with a decision, and am looking for some advice.

The time has come for an overdrive in my 72 Series III 88" HT, and it
seems I have a choice between a new Fairey unit, or a new Santana unit.
I've heard/read that the Santana is a stronger unit, but that might have
been advertising. Does anyone out there have any experience with the
Santana, or pros and cons concerning either rig?

Thanks, Bill Parker

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:29:37 -0500
Subject: RE: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

>Feel the force Keith,  most of the respondents want to help even though
they
>haven't really paid attention to the post.  You can get answers to simple
or
>complex questions, but you have to sort out whether or not your
correspondent
>actually knows more than you or understands the problem.

Yes Keith, for example, I didn't read your post, and know nothing abouth the
tank's assambly, but you have my simpathy.

:-)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 18:31:25 -0500

I'm gone for a week to Honduras.
I'll see if I can check my mail from there.
Bye for now.
Rover On!!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:32:33 -0400
Subject: Re: REAR BOLT ON SWB ROVER FUEL TANK

Paul Quin wrote:

> My 'new' tank that arrived from Britain last year did not fit well at
> all.
> I was later (on this list) told that LR changed the spacing between
> the
> outriggers some time late in the SIIA production run.  All new tanks
> are
> made to the later spec's  (about 1/2 inch longer?)

According to the SII/IIA green bible, pg44-H, the distance between
outriggers was increased 1/4" (from 23 3/4" to 24") on later models.
Since the fuel tank part number remained the same, I assume the change
was to ease tank installation.

One other change in frame dimensions, the hole for the left front engine
mount was shifted inboard 4mm on later frames.

Regards,
David Cockey
'60 SII SW
'60 SII HT/PU

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 21:08:12 -0400
Subject: Watch out Frank

Frank -   be careful on the M62 over the next couple of weeks, I could be
cruisin incognito in an Astra, we return to Yorkshire for a couple of weeks
on Friday,  may get to visit one or two Pennine members in our hectic schedule.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 20:47:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overdrives

At 01:56 AM 10/15/98 +0100, Bill Parker wrote:
>The time has come for an overdrive in my 72 Series III 88" HT, and it
>seems I have a choice between a new Fairey unit, or a new Santana unit.
>I've heard/read that the Santana is a stronger unit, but that might have
>been advertising. Does anyone out there have any experience with the
>Santana, or pros and cons concerning either rig?

 We heard the Santana OD advertised on the net in the Netherlands
 does not exist for sale.  The Fairey are supposedly being phased
 out with only a few left on the shelves, reportedly at BP 500 for
 sale in the UK.  In the US, the price of the overdrive is hard to
 justify as savings in fuel costs nearly equal the cost of the OD
 over the expected lifetime of the unit (not considering the reduced
 in-cab noise level ;)  However in Europe the OD would pay for 
 itself soon enough.  Even if the Santana were available, I would
 opt for the Fairey/Superwinch (or Toro/Bearmach) because parts are
 more readily available, the Fairey is a Land Rover approved item,
 and the brand more recognized adding to resale value.

-Michael

 PS -- Where can you drive in the Netherlands with an overdrive?
       By the time you get the Land Rover into 5th gear, you would
       be in Belgium, Denmark, or Germany ;) 

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 22:29:34 -0600
Subject: RE:Rear Bolt in SWB petrol tank

Aha!! A light comes on!!

I wrote about two weeks ago on methods of fixing a leaking gas tank. The
leaking first started after getting a job where I was driving 12 miles a
day on a washboard dirt road. When I changed the tank back in 92, I
didn't use the rubber washers (weren't any there to begin with, so just
bolted the tank solid to outriggers.

Going to pull the tank the first of the month to try the POR-15 tank
liner-will replace it with the rubber washers that I now see in the
'Green Bible"

Hopefully this will stop the metal fatigue that was caused by the rough
roads!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

Wonder what else I've missed in the last 8 years???

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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 23:28:53 -0700
Subject: Weber 32/36, tuning

Members,
    I wrote earlier to a few members off the list about installing my
weber 32/36.  I have installed it now and worked out a few problems
since then.  I still have a rich mixture, that I cannot lean down.  For
a while I had an idle that I couldn't get below 1250-1300 rpm.  That was
easily rectified by installing a fuel line pressure regulator.  Now I
can get it too idle decently at 800 rpm running rich.  What I would like
to know, from those IN the know, is whether or not this is typical.  The
engine is a 2286 with a shaved 8:1 head (petrol obviously), also I live
at about 2950 above sea level I believe (if my memory serves me
correctly).  Sometimes it stutters off idle.  What could it be?  I can
only think of jets.  Any ideas what numbers they should be?  I have them
written down somewhere from when I was looking at them before I
installed the carburetor.  Please help, I hate the smell of being too
rich... I own a LR.

Many thanks,
Kirk Hillman
and "The Banshee Hillman" 1966 SIIa 88" SW

--
"Faith without works is dead."

Maranatha, selah.

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boundary="------------44AEC028B604EDE2D0C44968" ]
From: Ed Hefferon <hefferon@omen.net.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 15:32:15 +0800
Subject: comparison

My wife recently traded her 318i in for a new J**p Wrangler, we now 
have two 4x4's one for serious offroading and one for posing at the
beach.  No prizes for guessing where the  D110 fits in.  The Wrangler
is  great city transport, tight U-turns etc.   My query is, have any D90
(not imported into Oz) owners had Wrangler experience, how would they
compare the two as far as maneuverability and heavy off roading
Cheers
Ed in Wanneroo
-- 
ÐÏࡱá

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 10:51:32 +0100
Subject: Mijdrecht

Any listmemebers going to the Landrover Club Holland, off-road 
driving day in Mijdrecht, Holland, sunday 18'th?  
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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