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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:49:24 +1000
Subject: Chassis No info?

Riaan Botes wrote:

manufacture
> date etc.
d.h.lowe replied:
   LandRover  Lode Lane. Solihull   West Midlands. B92.8NW    U.K.
   Attn.       Eric Pagan  Project Eng.
                  Traceability dept.
                 Tel. 0121 700 4524 direct line..

I have the contact as Mr. John Riley.  Which is correct?  I am about to send
a fax off to them and I'd like to get the correct contact name.  I have been
given the fax no. +44 121 742-1927.  I note there is a different exchange
prefix too - 700 vs 742.  It's easy enough to check that - I can just dial
the numbers.  The important thing is the name of the Project Engineer.

Ron

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From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:54:43 +0100
Subject: Was: head milling and compression ratios

> >ps Steve Dennis once posted to this list exhaustive instructions for
> >doing this...
> Exhaustive instructions on how to warp a head???
I feel a joke about "warp drive" coming in - but I'll be strong; I'll
resist it; I won't succumb; I'll trek for miles and hope the joke doesn't
Klingon to me.

-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

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From: Doug Boehme <DBoehme@PA.Navisys.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:12:15 -0400
Subject: RE: this list is not about aviation.

Or building a LR with wings...

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From: Paul G <pgussack@utk.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:27:06 -0400
Subject: Re:John Cleese

Wasn't Graham Chapman an American by birth? Not meaning to belay the
great contributions the Empire has given us but it can work both ways.

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:36:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Questions: Race and Brake cylinder

Couple of questions please:
1. I am re-assembling my axles on the IIA 88, and notice that the races
on the stub axles have a bit of a groove in them.  The Porter books
recommends replacing them if there is any mark on them, as they will
then leak oil.  How critical is replacing these right now?
2. I gather that the backing plates go on with the adjusters closer
to the front of the vehicle.  What about brake cylinders?  I have 4
new ones but don't know which are for the driver's side (left hand
steering) and which for the passenger.How do I tell?
Thanks much.
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:39:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Rubbers for a IIA

What is the best source of the various rubber pieces on a IIA 88?  I am
talking about the various door seals, windshield seal, the seal at the
bottom of the rear door (attached to the tub)?  Are there suitable
non-LR solutions?  Or, is there a "package deal" from some LR dealer
that offers ther complete set at a reasonable price?  Thanks.
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 98 05:45:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Breather

>Teri Ann writes :-   There is a seporate breather hole for the transfer
>case.  Look at the 
>metal plate on top of the transfer case under the middle seat.  You 
;>should see a little hole that has a cotter pin or cotter pin like thing 
;>in the hole.  This is th etransfer case breather.  I drilled mine out 
and 
;>added a defender style axle breather tube.

;> You have described the breather in the overdrive top plate. The 
transferbox
;>plate is plain, if yours has a cotter in it then some  PO made the mod.
;>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.

Hmmm
I went out & looked at my spare transfer case, it has a small hole in the 
steel plate too. I drilled out an existing small dia hole in the top 
plate of the transfer case I have installed to put the Defender style 
breather. If it is a mod it must b a very common one.  

Since the transfer case is sealed from the transmission via an oil seal, 
I would be VERY suprised if Rover didn't put a vent someplace in the 
transfer case.  When oil & gases get hot inside the transfer case they 
expand.  Not having a vent is a sure garrentee of oil being forced out a 
seal.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 9:09:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Rubbers for a IIA

1. Rovers North, 2. Atlantic British.
If you buy from RN, you can ask for the restoration credit program 
whereby you get a ten percent credit towards some future purchase.

The others have lost their Series zeal.

Or, you can buy a bunch of weatherstripping at Pep Boys and glue it on 
with 3M.
Will look like hell, but will probably work OK.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:53:40 +0100
Subject: Thanks again...

Mark... just wanted to say thanks again... Had a great time, and you 
definately showed us some great stuff... And to be learning everything,
I was definately with the right group of people. 

talk to you later...

-Scott

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:56:50 +0100
Subject: OOPS: Thanks again...

Oh well.. there I go again... sorry guys.

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From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:05:21 -0400
Subject: re: GPS as Speedo

Ben:

Thanks for your correction.

Russ:

I was only answering the question.

jeff
==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:01:21 -0600
Subject: RE: John Cleese

Paul G asked:

Wasn't Graham Chapman an American by birth? Not meaning to belay the
great contributions the Empire has given us but it can work both ways.

No- Terry Gilliam was the Yank. Did all the animation's for the show.

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:01:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Breather

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>  You have described the breather in the overdrive top plate. The
> transferbox
> plate is plain, if yours has a cotter in it then some  PO made the mod.
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> Hmmm
> I went out & looked at my spare transfer case, it has a small hole in the
> steel plate too. 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> I would be VERY suprised if Rover didn't put a vent someplace in the
> transfer case.  
	My plate had no hole or cotterpin, so I added noe to it. I think Art
said that the green bible, which I don't have, said that air passages go
between the tranny and xfer case so that the xfer case can vent out the
tranny breather. I am venting each one just in case.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:05:54 -0600
Subject: RE: Rubbers for a 2a

hi all--

The Rubber seals for a D-90 will fit. Look a hell of oa lot better and
cost less.

Saw them on Frank Jakos' restored Series at the Steamboat Rally-Nice
Rover!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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[spamkill:  L1011 is not a Land Rover input: %s]	 Subject: Re: L1011 
Crashes (off topic)

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From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:56:32 -0400
Subject: SU Fuel Pumps

Does anybody know the SU part number for the "dual points set" used in SU
fuel pumps?

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From: "Jeff and Chris Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:12:04 -0700
Subject: Blue smoke

This one has me stumped:  While off-roading yesterday in New Hampshire, my
SIII (2.25 gas) began smoking like a 2-cycle - not at idle, but whenever I
accelerated.  It didn't smoke on the 150 mile drive north, and it quit
smoking on the drive home.  Oil consumption was unchanged - about 3/4 quart
for the whole day.  Oil pressure was 55 psi at idle, 70 at speed.  This
morning in the driveway I let her warm up, revved it a few times - no smoke.

Rather embarassing, though it did serve to keep the bugs down.  My only
theories are that I may have slightly overfilled the sump (but I don't think
so, and even if I did, I can't see how that would cause this problem), or
that the steep angles during the day affected my engine (but I cannot figure
out how, especially since the other Series had no similar problems).

Any thoughts?

Jeff Jackson

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:23:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Off road and falling off a cliff

Endersby, Gordon wrote:

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:31:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Series Lubrication

The Becketts wrote:
> Peter Kaskan wrote:
> BTW, I don't wear my 'nice work overalls' when topping up 90wt - I have
> more disposable clothes for that.  After rigging up a nice little pump and
> long hose, and a years practice, 90wt still manages to get everywhere.
> I agree!  the smell of 90 wt EP oil NEVER washes out of clothes.  I've had
> to throw away one of my favourite jackets which  from the oil.  And there

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> to throw away one of my favourite jackets which  from the oil.  And there
> was only a little spilt on it

You have to learn to love the smell of 90W, associate it with the idea
of all the things you love to do, like fixing the Rover, escaping the
wife in the garage, bonding with other males over the whether tall
skinny tires are better than fat ones or how you really spell tyres.
Or get a nose job and lose your sense of smell (That worked for me!)
     John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:36:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

Jeff and Chris Jackson wrote:
> This one has me stumped:  While off-roading yesterday in New Hampshire, my
> SIII (2.25 gas) began smoking like a 2-cycle - not at idle, but whenever I
> accelerated.  It didn't smoke on the 150 mile drive north, and it quit
> smoking on the drive home.  Oil consumption was unchanged - about 3/4 quart
> for the whole day.  Oil pressure was 55 psi at idle, 70 at speed.  This
> morning in the driveway I let her warm up, revved it a few times - no smoke.
> Rather embarassing, though it did serve to keep the bugs down.  My only
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> out how, especially since the other Series had no similar problems).
> Any thoughts?
 Probably a little too much oil in the air filter or you may have got a
little water in the intake which would cause the oil level to rise in
the filter. You were going to service the air filter after offroading
anyway weren't you.
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:46:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Off road and falling off a cliff

Endersby, Gordon wrote:
> Dear all.
> I thought you might be interested in the results off my first off road
> adventure in my 110.
> Its a 1985 Landrover 110, 2.25 Petrol. Station Wagon. No special
> modifications.
> The location Golding Barn Offroad centre. Near Upper Beeding Just north

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 62 lines)]
> and got towed to somewhere the AA could pick us up.
> After inspection it looks like all thats broken is the two engine mou

Gordon, sounds like quite an experience but you made a clasic mistake.
When decending a hill under extreme condition NEVER EVER put your foot
on the clutch. As you found this will cause you to go out of control
instantly. If the vehicle is overreving brake with your left foot and
add enough trottle to prevent wheel lockup with the right foot.
Practice this under less dire conditions as it take some getting used to 
but it works. It also works for an automatic when the engine braking
goes away.
   stay muddy.
             John and Muddy

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:15:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Rubbers for a IIA

Robert out here in Rainy BC we sell a replacement rubber that comes as a
continuous strip and is cemented in place it works just great and costs C$
2.25 a foot. you need 13 feet per door.  Happy Thanksgiving   Ray Wood

Check out the Wise Owl Website

   ^   ^
  (0 0)
 V(  )V
---+-+----

www.bcoffroad.com/wiseowl

----------

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:42:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Off road and falling off a cliff

The motor mounts were toast before you went over the descent. You 
unfortunately found this out while in a situation that absolutely 
required sound engine mounts. One bump and it knocked the engine out of 
place. Luckily, you were in a somewhat controlled environment where help 
was nearby. You'll certainly be checking all the major systems in the 
truck for other defects this weekend, won't you.

BTW, there are descent techniques that will allow you, with a winch, to 
confidently attempt slopes far greater than the one you had problems 
with.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:48:11 -0700
Subject: Re: GPS

From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 07:44:51 -0700
Subject: Re: GPS

>I have heard that GPS can provide speed information.  Is this an
adequate
substiture for a speedo?  It appears that my tranny is missing the
speedo pinion.

Yes, GPS will give you a very accurate indication of your speed.
However, you should be aware that different models of GPS have different
levels of speed reporting.  Some will not indicate speeds over a certain
rate.  However, I suspect that the speed range of a Land Rover falls
within the parameters of most, if not all, GPS receivers.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:03:49 -0700
Subject: LR 88 equals de Havilland Beaver

From: Slade@dreamlab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:48:56 -0700 (PDT)
[spamkill:  L1011 is not a Land Rover input: %s]	 Subject: Re: L1011 
Crashes (off topic)

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From: Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 19:05:48 +0200
Subject: Re: My diesel is letting off air

> High Crankcase pressure and fine oil mist out the breather and oil filler cap.
> Classic worn engine and blowby symptoms.  Rings and lower end.
> Zack Arbios

So this means new pistons, rings, ++? What do you meaan by lower end?

Will I ruin th eengine if I continute to run it like this for a while,
while replenishing oil of course?

--cepe

-- 
Carl P. Swensson	internet: cepe@online.no	
			telephone: +47-928 937 40
                        telefax:   +47-929 737 40
I speak for myself. I will tell you when I speak for someone else

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:21:30 -0700
Subject: de Havilland Beaver oil filler myth

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 15:51:01 EDT
[spamkill:  L1011 is not a Land Rover input: %s]	 Subject: Re: L1011 
Crashes (off topic)

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From: David Scott <birddog@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:23:08 -0600
Subject: AB springs

Prince charles my 11a 88 was leaning down on the drivers side despite a new AB 
frame and springs.  I decided I must have put the rear springs on wrong so I 
swapped sides....no difference.  I called AB and Eric said I needed to "set the 
springs"  which didnt make alot of sense to me...but then many things dont.  So 
I put a couple of people in the passenger side with all the bolts loose holding 
the springs and spring hangers then tightend them up.  Looked good until we 
drove it...no difference.   Called AB said we must have done it wrong.  I then 
loosened all bolts  put two people in the passenger side tightened the 6 bolts 
fwd and aft holding the springs on that side.  I then jacked up the low side 
(drivers)  with both wheels off the ground and tightened the bolts on that 
side....no difference.  Didnt make sense that tightening up the sping hanger 
bolts would do anything anyway as both aft hangers must move when the spings 
straighten out.  My next step will be to shim between the spring and axle on 
the drivers side unless anyone can help me figure out what is going on.I know 
most 
of the jokes on AB and genuine parts etc.  but I have a couple of hundred 
thousand in this project as it is doing it the cheap way   :).  birddog         
 By 
the way, the running rich problem with my new zenith carb was the four bolts 
holding the carb body together were loose from the factory.  Some I could turn 
one 
complete revolution before getting tight.  The engine purrs like a kitten once 
that was done.  Have a great day

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From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:28:40 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: looking for an old style "station wagon"

Hi Joe,

I don't have anything for sale.  Sounds like you really want a 109" SW.  A
fellow Bill McDonald in MD has something like this for sale.  I will post this
to the LRO-List and perhaps someone out there has just what you need.  I will
keep this note J.I.C.

Tom Bache

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From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:32:24 -0700
Subject: Re[2]: My diesel is letting off air

     
> High Crankcase pressure and fine oil mist out the breather and oil filler cap.
> Classic worn engine and blowby symptoms.  Rings and lower end.
         [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> Classic worn engine and blowby symptoms.  Rings and lower end. 
> Zack Arbios
     
     You don't mention what engine you have (or I don't recall) but I have 
     a 2.5 turbo diesel and I've had considerable blow by from a few weeks 
     after completing a rebuild. (I now have 13k on the rebuild and the 
     blowby seems stable. I also have the rocker cap venting to atmosphere)
     
     Anyway, this blowby concerned me as well and I was told that this was 
     normal for this engine. FWIF, I did the rebuild myself after having 
     all parts professionally machined.
     
So this means new pistons, rings, ++? What do you meaan by lower end?
     
     Bottom end is usually Rod and main crankshaft bearings but I'm not 
     sure how that would effect blowby.
Will I ruin th eengine if I continute to run it like this for a while, 
while replenishing oil of course?
     
     Has anyone else heard of this blowby in a turbo application?
     
     tew

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:33:29 -0700
Subject: Re: 88 and Beaver

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:28:23 -0400
Subject: 88 and Beaver

>Just a personal historical comment.  In the 70's I lived in the Falkland
Islands off South America. There we had the best of both:  our ground
transport was an 88 SWB soft-top and for inter-island transport we
could book flights on a Beaver float plane.  Two of these delivered
the mail and passengers to most farm communities.

Interestingly enough, the Beaver I fly the most, N-17598, came from the
Falklands and was rebuilt by Kenmore Air Harbor, who still owns it.  I don't
know when Kenmore acquired 598, but I imagine it was in the late 1970s.  I
started flying it in the early '80s, and it had already been in their fleet
for some time.  598 is distinctive in that the anti-collision light is
mounted on the upper leading edge of the vertical tail, as opposed to on a
short pylon on the cabin top, which is where the anti-collision lights on
most Beavers is mounted.  So if the Beaver you rode in the Falklands had a
rotating beacon (or strobe) mounted on the leading edge of the vertical
tail, the chances are very good that it's the plane I fly today.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:34:55 -0700
Subject: Re: My diesel is letting off air

     
     <My 1997 109" diesel> 
     
     I just re-read your post and am not sure what engine the're using in 
     the "1997" 109's :)
     
     tew

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From: Bucknerms@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:58:05 EDT
Subject: PIAA lights for a '97 D90

Quick question...Anyone ever install driving lights on a 97 D90.  I just got
some 6 1/4 inch lights which I wanted to install on the bumper of the
truck....and just my luck the Brush Guard comes right across the middle of the
light.  Does anyone know how to lift it up off the bumper by about 3inches?
PIAA does not seem to make an extension to their chassis.  Any help
appreciated..

Mitch
Arlington, VA

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[spamkill: political spam input: %s]	 Subject: Monica Lewinsky and blowing 
diesels...

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:32:06 -0500
Subject: 1960 Turn Signal Lenses, cont'd

Thanks to all who helped with my original question concerning Sparto vs.
Lucas.  Now for another question:  I know there are a few other owners of
1960s model year L-Rs on this list and I hope you all are listening.  My
turn signal lenses have screws which tighten down a chrome retaining ring
and hold them in place.  I was told by Rovers North that both screw-type
and pressure-mount units were used on Series IIs and IIAs.  The pressure
mount type has a chrome ring which mounts in the rubber surround of the
turn signal unit and holds the lens in place.  So what do you other
1958-1961 Series II owners have?  Thanks in advance.  I really do
appreciate the help.

BTW, my parking lamps mount the same way with screws.  I find it hard to
believe that the set-up for all of these units is not original since I
don't think any of the previous owners would have spent the money to
replace all four units.  And these lamps are Lucas units with flat, clear
lenses.  Does this indicate that everything should be Lucas rather than a
combination of Lucas and Sparto?

Thanks again,

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:32:44 EDT
Subject: Re: PIAA lights for a '97 D90

I think there is an extention that you can get from LRNA. It is a little deal
that fits just behind the bar and just bolts in on top of the Brush bar bolts.
I know it will be pricey from LRNA, but... 
You can always drill...

Steve 

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From: "Jeff and Chris Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:33:51 -0700
Subject: Blue Smoke Mystery Solved by John

John and Muddy wrote:
Probably a little too much oil in the air filter or you may have got a
little water in the intake which would cause the oil level to rise in
the filter. You were going to service the air filter after offroading
anyway weren't you.    John and Muddy

Good call, John.  I pulled the air filter (as part of my planned, post
off-road maintenance ;-)), and (req'd aviation content to follow:) I checked
the tank for water in the oil, much as one would do before flying their
DeHavilland Twin Otter, L-1011, or Sopwith Camel.

Surprise!  During the many water crossings, I'd managed to capture about a
bit of water in the air filter (probably fan-blowback - should have been a
clue when I noticed how wet and muddy the upper end of the engine bay had
become.  I was driving slowly, but with these 15" tires, I was low in the
water.).   Water forced oil up, throw in a few 40 degree hill climbs, and I
was blowing smoke.

Thanks.

Jeff

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From: Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 20:50:26 +0200
Subject: Re: My diesel is letting off air

>      <My 1997 109" diesel> 
>      I just re-read your post and am not sure what engine the're using in 
>      the "1997" 109's :)
>      tew

I guess that was finger troble. Sometimes I actually wish my _1979_ 109"
was built last year. The engine is a 2.25 diesel.

--cepe

-- 
Carl P. Swensson	internet: cepe@online.no	
			telephone: +47-928 937 40
                        telefax:   +47-929 737 40
I speak for myself. I will tell you when I speak for someone else

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Series III Gearbox Problem

Hello all,
        My gearbox problems persist.  I started with a good tight gearbox
that leaked oil between the transfer box and tranny.  After two rebuilds, by
recommended Rover mechanics, I now have a gearbox that leaks between the
transfer box and gearbox and jumps out of first and sometimes second gear.
Intense frustration....
        Right now I am trying to deal with the seal.  I haven't read a lot
of discussion on the list about series III gearbox's leaking into the
transfer case.  Is this then a common Rover problem or an uncommon one?  I
drove the rover 300 miles yesterday - mostly on the freeway at speeds around
55mph - and found the transfer case oil level high and the gearbox that plus
that which had leaked onto the frame low. The leak is one way.  
        Is this normal given the speed and the distance?  Would a breather
kit help at all on the tranny and are they available?  I don't have the
time/money/patience right now to break the box apart - although breaking it
apart with a 5 pound sledge would be therapeutic.  I can't understand why
the seal would last only 4 or 5 months.  Is it possible one of the casings
is warped?  The last rebuilder came highly recommended and yet all my
problems persist...... Thanks in advance.

                                                        Hank Stinson
                                                      ' 73 SWB SHED

 - and to think I was going to reward it with a new name from its present
name - SHED. 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:56:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox Problem

In a message dated 10/12/98 1:18:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
hstin@cts.com writes:

<<  Is this then a common Rover problem or an uncommon one?  I
 drove the rover 300 miles yesterday - mostly on the freeway at speeds around
 55mph - and found the transfer case oil level high and the gearbox that plus
 that which had leaked onto the frame low. The leak is one way.  >>

Mine does the same thing.  Transmission will be low and I can drain the
transfer case out.  Since it doesn't leak, I quit worrying about it....
keeping an eye on both.  

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 98 16:58:20 EDT
Subject: Re: 1960 lenses

Re: 1960 SII lenses

***
Thanks to all who helped with my original question concerning Sparto vs.
Lucas.  Now for another question:  I know there are a few other owners of
1960s model year L-Rs on this list and I hope you all are listening.  My
turn signal lenses have screws which tighten down a chrome retaining ring
and hold them in place.  I was told by Rovers North that both screw-type
and pressure-mount units were used on Series IIs and IIAs.  The pressure
mount type has a chrome ring which mounts in the rubber surround of the
turn signal unit and holds the lens in place.  So what do you other
1958-1961 Series II owners have?  Thanks in advance.  I really do
appreciate the help.
***

Nige, a '60 SII 88, has these screw-in-the-chrome-ring type lenses.  All
my SIIa's ('63, '67, and Ma's '67) have the pressure mounted
type.  However, I suspect the pressure mounted types were available
in 1960, as a '56 Austin Healy 100/4 I know of has the exact same
lenses (only red) as tail lights, and so maybe some were used on
SIIs...would be nice to know if this was true, as the pressure mounted
types are far more available (and considerably cheaper).

rgds,
rd/nige

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:03:05 EDT
Subject: Fax to e-mail was cut off.....

<<There is a third solution that you didn't mention.  E-mail to fax in the UK.
You send e-mail to a particular address and it is converted to a fax.  The
company that provides the service uses this as a marketing tool.>>

The rest of the e-mail was chopped off.  Here it is:

[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 The e-mail address is 
remote-printer.contact/company@44nnnnnnnnnn.iddd.tpc.int
[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 
printer.eric_pagen/land_rover@441217421927.iddd.tpc.int

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From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:39:32 -0500
Subject: Re:GPS

There are several very useful and informative web sites well worth your
time.  Check out http://joe.mehaffey.com.
Mr. Joe Mehaffey and Mr. Jack Yeasel have posted the results of  an
enormous amont of time and effort they,and others, have spent evaluating
various GPS receivers, maps, moving map software, etc. 

If you're really interested in what's new, what's going to be new, what's
best, what works, and how it works, try following the newsgroup,
sci.geo.satellite-nav.   There are comments from engineers and scientists
who really know the bits , bytes, geophysics and geodosey and comments from
people who only know how to turn the units on and maybe translate what they
see on the screen to useful information.  Prices, availability, differences
between units around the world, are available through this worldwide
newsgroup. 

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:41:03 EDT
Subject: Re: My diesel is letting off air

Something that can be done for engines which are experiencing high levels of
blowby is to create a method of limiting the amount of oil which actually
enters the combustion chambers.  This is done by redirecting the crankcase
vents to a suitable container which then goes to the ordinary location the
crankcase vent attaches to.  
Let's say the hose from the crankcase vent went directly to the intake air at
the top of the intake manifold, introducing the oil mist uinto the clean air
stream.  I would relocate the hose to a 90 degree fitting in the top of an
industrial plastic mayonnaise jar and extend the hose inside the jar an added
3-4".  I would add another fitting to the lid with no extension and lead that
hose to the original intake location.  The jar would locate someplace within
the engine compartment clear of large heat sources, (not next to the ex.
manifold) .  The high speed air from blowby would enter the jar, and
immediatley slow down.  Oil particles drift to the bottom or sides and stick,
vapors and air blown by would travel through the engine to be consumed as is
proper.  Ocasionally, I'd have to drain the accumulated crap which is why I
placed the fittings in the jar lid rather than the jar itself.

I mentioned the bottom end previously, because if you've worn out the rings or
have to disturb the rod bearings to inspect the rings, you might as well put
in a new set of rod bearings at least.  Running a engine which only symptom of
wear is blowby won't hurt it however you are not esperiencing the full levels
of power that Land Rovers are famous for.

Zack Arbios
old racing tricks galore. 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:57:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox Problem

Sounds like the breather to me.  isn't there a flat plate on the top of the
trans shift with a hole innit ?  If not make one and tap it for 1/4" pipe, put
in a fitting, and breather, it won't hurt to have one will it.  I think your
seal is fine because the leak is one way. other wise it'd flow back when you
parked it nose downhill on the levee.

Zack Arbios

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From: Jim Gardner <jim.gardner@tip.csiro.au>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 08:04:52 +1000
Subject: Brake cylinder diameter

Dear Series_1ers:
This should probably be subtitled "the things people do". I now know why PO
is a term with a questionable air to it.

Basic question is what is the diameter of the brake wheel cylinder for a
Series 1.

In pulling the axles and springs off my 1954 86" for restoration, I found 3
wheel cylinders at 1-1/4" diameter and one (on the front!) at 1" diameter.
The Series I manual I have doesn't specify the correct value. I assume that
all should be 1-1/4", but all bets are off on this car, which shows much
evidence of bush repairs by the dodgy brothers. The wheel that had the 1"
cylinder also had the ring which retains the trailing shoe fitted to the
leading shoe, with a non-rover spring arrangement and a non-rover shoe
fitted on the trailing side.

As an aside, the local brake expert pointed out two traps for young players
in land rover brakes. One is that the trailing shoe should not have a
return spring fitted to the upper side - this was a common error noticed in
the past, where the spring had been stretched from shoe-to-shoe, rather
than from the leading shoe to the pin on the backing plate. This leads to
excessive pedal travel. The other was that in reassembling the master
cylinder, make sure that the bleed hole in the piston tube ends up
vertical, not horizontal. Otherwise air can't bleed properly, and this gave
rise to the common practice of lifting the front of the car about 4 feet
off the groung by winching to a tree branch to then bleed the brakes.

Another tip from him: to remove the large nut from the master cylinder,
support the front (not the flanges) on a hard surface, then give the nut a
solid whack with a hammer - this compresses the washer and frees the
threads & often the nut can be simply unscrewed with finger power.

I've cross-posted this as the brake tips may be useful to other than Series
I owners.

Cheers,
Jim Gardner

'54 Series I now completely in pieces
'93 Defender 200 TDi TOD00Z

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:13:40 -0300
Subject: Re: PIAA lights for a '97 D90

Bucknerms@aol.com wrote:
> Quick question...Anyone ever install driving lights on a 97 D90.  I just got
> some 6 1/4 inch lights which I wanted to install on the bumper of the
> truck....and just my luck the Brush Guard comes right across the middle of the
> light.  Does anyone know how to lift it up off the bumper by about 3inches?
> PIAA does not seem to make an extension to their chassis.  Any help
> appreciated..
> Mitch

 Since you ask I assume you are not into metal fabrication . It is a
very simple task to make some brackets to raise the lights and any
fabrication shop could do it.  Try the Yellow Pages.
    John and Muddy

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 07:15:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Chassis No info?

Ron .  I have the letter in front of me from Mr. Pagan dated April 1998. Perhaps
there`s more of  `em than we know about.

The Becketts wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 04:15:39 -0700
Subject: Tie rod end ?'s

Blast! 

Trying to exorcise the wander in the front end, I am replacing the Track
Rod ends (tie rod ends for LRSL).  They pop off the arms quite easily using
a pickle fork.  One of the ball joints is stuck in the track rod, however.
I am hestant to use the other track rod end to exert a torque because it
will damage the ball joint.  I am also hesitant to use a pipe wrench on the
track rod, as it is pretty soft steel.  I did try making a clamp with some
wood and a herking C-clamp, Lots of liquid wrench, judicious application of
heat, all to no avail.  I am turning it in the correct direction (left- and
right-hand threads, ya know).

Suggestions?  Prayers to the Goddess of penetrating oil?

Thanks
Todd
'71 SIIA 88  "Fantod"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 07:19:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Solihull email (cross posted)

Fax number 0121-742-1927.    no E-mail address on my correspondence fom them.

Riaan Botes wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:13:42 -1000
Subject: Re: Blue smoke

>This one has me stumped:  While off-roading yesterday in New Hampshire, my
>SIII (2.25 gas) began smoking like a 2-cycle -
>Any thoughts?
>Jeff Jackson

Hmm, don't go off-roading in New Hampshire?
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <rosvall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 20:21:17 -0300
Subject: Parts for Koenigs.......

Does any one know of source to get parts for the Koenig PTO winch?

Does anyone have Koenig unit that is beyond repair and might want to part
out?

Thanks,

Peter Rosvall
rosvall@nbnet.nb.ca

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 20:25:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Tie rod end ?'s

Todd Schlemmer wrote:
> Blast!
> Trying to exorcise the wander in the front end, I am replacing the Track
> Rod ends (tie rod ends for LRSL).  They pop off the arms quite easily using
> a pickle fork.  One of the ball joints is stuck in the track rod, however.
> I am hestant to use the other track rod end to exert a torque because it
> will damage the ball joint.  I am also hesitant to use a pipe wrench on the
> track rod, as it is pretty soft steel.  I did try making a clamp with some
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Thanks
> Todd
Place the rod on a solid surface so that the part with the end you want
to remove is supported and with a good sized hammer tap quite hard while
rotating the rod (loosen the clamp and slide it out of the way). Don't
thump on the part beyond where the tierod end is inserted. Continue for
about 5 mins. Usually works for me>
     John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:30:18 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Parts for Koenigs.......

peter, please post any findings to the net.  we are interested, too...

ray harder (with a leaking koenig and problems locating proper seals

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998, Peter & Julie Rosvall wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 19:34:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 1960 Turn Signal Lenses, cont'd

> And these lamps are Lucas units with flat, clear
> lenses.  Does this indicate that everything should be Lucas rather
> than a
> combination of Lucas and Sparto?

My SII's are elsewhere so I can't check them, but one has a mixture of
flat and pointed Lucas lenses. The other has a mixture of Lucas and
Sparto, though I'm not sure about the originality of the Lucas on that
truck. The turn signals (flashers) were an option on all but the SWs.
It's quite plausible to me a worker could have pulled a set of basic
lamps, and a set of Sparto flasher lamps.

The parts books include notations on lamp usage, but I can't correlate
them with my trucks or others I've seen. They were intended as only a
guide for someone with a LR available for reference as to the exact
parts used.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scott <birddog@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 19:21:11 -0600
Subject: springs

addendum to spring saga.  Both rear springs are pointed in the same direction 
with the numbers forward.  help!  birddog

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scott <birddog@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 19:30:03 -0600
Subject: break in oil

anyone know what wt break in oil turner uses for their engines.  Is it Non 
detergent?  thanks birddog

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 21:09:23 EDT
Subject: Re: break in oil

Although I don't know what break-in oil Turner uses, it probably is 30wt non-
detergent, this was certainly traditional for the period when the series were
produced.  Adding detergent to non-detergent for the duration of the break-in
period probaly won't hurt.  Certrainly  won't hurt as much as running low.

Zack Arbios

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:38:37 -0700
Subject: Re: break in oil

David Scott wrote:

> anyone know what wt break in oil turner uses for their engines.  Is it Non 
detergent?

I've got some and there's no indication of either the weight or type (detergent 
or not).The brand name is
Comma and it's called Running In Oil.  The blurb says helps in seating pistons 
and preventing bore
glazing... nothing more.

Jeremy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 06:58:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Tie rod end ?'s

>Place the rod on a solid surface so that the part with the end you want
>to remove is supported and with a good sized hammer tap quite hard while
>rotating the rod (loosen the clamp and slide it out of the way). Don't
>thump on the part beyond where the tierod end is inserted. Continue for
>about 5 mins. Usually works for me>
>     John and Muddy

Worked like a charm!  Imagine my relief when the damned thing started to
slooooowly turn, and I didn't even destroy the Tie Rod.  A big 90W thanks.  

Just gotta do two more - MAYBE 4.  The tie rod end's at the steering box
boot is junk, but I am hoping the steady drip of gear oil is protecting and
lubing it fine.  

Todd
'71 SIIA 88  "Fantod"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 23:28:28 EDT
Subject: Re: GPS as Speedo/Disco Lite

In a message dated 10/10/98 11:21:37 AM SA Pacific Standard Time,
paul@adventures.co.za writes:

<< Oh, BTW, did yáll know that Diet Coke is to become Coke Lite as of next
 year?
 
 Now why don't L-R just rename the bloody Freeloader the Disco Lite and
 follow a firmly established marketing trend? If they do I dibs
 royalties! >>

They already have a Disco Lite on the way... The Disco Series II !  ;-)

My sincerest advance apologies to future buyers.

--pat.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 22:35:33 -0500
Subject: Re: GPS as Speedo/Disco Lite 

Pat wrote: 

> They already have a Disco Lite on the way... The Disco Series II !  ;-)
> My sincerest advance apologies to future buyers.

	From what I've read, it may be an off-road lightweight, but with
going to an all-steel construction (yup no more Burmabright--does this 
exclude them from the BB Trevor?) it seems more like an overweight Disco
to me.  :-)

	On the good side, when you call LRNA and tell them that you have a 
Series II, they might actually thing you were a person worth talking to.
confusing them with saying that you own a Series IIA is cruel and unusual
punishment that should be saved for special occasions.

	And of course, now this means I own a Series I!

--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd,    can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie
             Series I              

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 00:01:56 +0100
Subject: RE: Blue smoke

-Scott
 1973 SIII 88"

>This one has me stumped:  While off-roading yesterday in New Hampshire, my
>SIII (2.25 gas) began smoking like a 2-cycle -

Yup... smelled just like one too... I was right behind him...  

-Scott

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 01:17:01 -0400
Subject: Re: spam filter - how to see if your message made it or was eaten

If you want to see if you message made it or got eaten, check the digest
on the web site

	LRO 	www.land-rover.team.net/Year-1998/hourly.html
	RRO 	www.land-rover.team.net/RRO/hourly.html
	UK 	www.land-rover.team.net/UK/hourly.html

after the top of the hour, and you'll see how the message was processed,
if the spam killer eats it, there will be some trace of why it was eaten,
or the message will be in the digest. 

If the message is isn't there, and there is no line from the spamkiller as
to why it was eaten, there is the possibility that your message hasn't
reached the server yet.

The previous days digest is 'today.html' instead of 'hourly.html' and
any random day is 'YYMMDD.html', as in '980921.html' for 21 Sept. 1998
these can also be accessed by the index.html under the same directories. 

	RRO 	www.land-rover.team.net/RRO/today.html
	RRO 	www.land-rover.team.net/RRO/980921.html
	RRO 	www.land-rover.team.net/RRO/		(index.html)

Pointers to all the lists, hourly, daily, etc., can be found at
	www.land-rover.team.net/today.html

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net
	 http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
				  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD		  D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3	Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2	    because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1	Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:39:13 +0100
Subject: rusted clutch to flywheel undone

Here is the method with which i finally succeeded in freeing up 
the clutch from the flywheel.

I jacked up the back wheels of the vehicle, started the engine with 
4'th gear engaged, (wheels turning) pressed the clutch pedal down 
with a stick, got the wheels up to full speed (8o km an hour) jumped 
full force on the brakes while maintaining full throttle. With the 
second attempt I got her free.

Thanks for all the different tips, you were a great help.

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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