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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 98 06:46:42 -0700
Subject: Re: What kind of heads are these??

My current understanding is that:

- The heads without the raised platform "boss" adjacent to the carb are 
an older casting than the ones with the raised platform, and they are all 
7:1 compression.

- The heads with the boss are a newer casting with more iron between the 
bottom mating surface and the water jacket.  The compression rating is 
stamped on the boss.  No stamp or a 7 equals 7:1 compression.  An 8 
stamped on it means 8:1 compression.  Depending upon where a car is 
intended for sale it could be provided with ether a 7:1 or 8:1 
compression head.  Some areas have/had petrol that couldn't handle 8:1.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:04:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Toro Overdrive

Jim Hall's web page and the discription of his Toro OD installation was
interesting.  A couple of years ago I installed what I assumed to be a Toro
OD, now I wonder.  Mine is missing the dipstick Jim's has (it fills through
a hole in the rear cover), and the case does not have some of the
strengthtening ribs his photo shows.  It was also a pain to install,
requiring sqeezing the header pipe to allow room for the pipe between the
overdrive and the chassis.  The handbrake crossshaft barely clears the OD
top cover.  The knob on the shift lever is labelled "Normales" and
"Superdirecta", so it's apparently Spanish - perhaps a Santana product? It
works well, dispite the "oil spewing out the vent hole" syndrome.  I also
cured this with vent fittings and hoses.  I connected vents for the
gearbox, transfer case, and OD together to equalize their preasures, then
ran a hose to the cabin interior.  It works well except after a long hiway
drive - passengers then complain of the smell of gear oil in the cabin.
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
'73 Ser III  88"

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From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:28:23 -0400
Subject: 88 and Beaver

Just a personal historical comment.  In the 70's I lived in the Falkland
Islands off South America. There we had the best of both:  our ground
transport was an 88 SWB soft-top and for inter-island transport we
could book flights on a Beaver float plane.  Two of these delivered
the mail and passengers to most farm communities. Since there were
no roads outside town (only one town of 1000 people) every ground
trip was an off-road adventure.

Now there are still lots of Land Rovers (and more roads) with the
Discos being popular.  There are also Shoguns etc etc, telephones,
TV....  And the Beavers have been replaced by Islanders which
land on grass.

Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 10:49:52 -0700
Subject: Names, diffs and speedos

    I know you all have been anxiously awaiting any news on my poor
little rover (extreme sarcasm here!).  Well, for anyone that cares, my
Land Rover is on the road again.  Not only on the road, but fully
functional too.
    First, a name.  I have been thinking about a name for a while now.
There have been a few good ones mentioned.  The two that I liked the
best are it.  'The Banshee Hillman'.  What do you think?  I like the
connotation of Hillman (also being my last name), and Banshee will
always remind me of my noisy diff woes.
    Second, my noisy diff.  Not good news here.  After putting the diff
back in, it was horribly noisy (not -typical- noisy).  So I parked it
for a few days until friday night, late, when I could get to it.  I
pulled the drain plug and many little bits of metal came out.  Not good
for sure :-(.  The diff came out and then I saw what I was most afraid
of.  The crown was missing all those little shards of metal.
Apparently, when my buddy and I set the backlash we didn't have enough.
The theory is that there was so much pressure pushing the pinion into
the center of the crown that it actually 'pinched' off the inner 1/8"
off most of the crown teeth. Lesson here, don't set it up too tight.  I
went to my friendly neibourhood parts supplier and we went hunting for a
good used diff.  He thought he had a mint unit out in the Quonset.  We
looked here and there all over his property at LR's for a diff.  Almost
all were open and rusted or had crown wheel problems.  We get to the
Quonset and he walks over to the front axle in question... it's gone.
'Oh, I must have already sold it.'  I drove 225km one way to here that?
Then he says, 'I should have something around here.'  In a pile of stuff
behind a bench is a IIa front axle, half buried in the muck.  He thinks
we should look at it.  I am thinking he is crazy.  It is half buried and
the plugs are gone, leaving it exposed to all the crud all over the
place.  We pull it up and out anyway, clean it a little.  Unbolting it
proves to be startling.  There are no wear marks... like none!  You
could still see the machining marks on the teeth for goodness' sake.
This was some find.  There was probably free-wheeling hubs on from the
factory, and the owner never locked them in is all I can think of.
Anyway, the good news is that I got the two part LR II/IIa manual set,
the diff, and a bunch of other goodies for $350 CAN. (for those of you
who don't know, $1 US is worth, oh, 1000 CAN  :-)
    I came back and installed the diff and wow, no more noise!  I mean,
not quite, silent!  The diff that I had from when I bought it had a
spacer in wrong, so it was always a little louder than it should have
been I guess.
    Last bit of news, the speedo.  Since it stopped working again after
24km and a new cable I thought bad thoughts.  But I pulled the innards
out and it was fine.  I put it back in.  I checked the speedo with a
little screw driver to see if it in fact worked.  It worked but there
was a lot of gunk in the drive member, so I cleaned it out a little, and
presto, working speedo.  I believe the gunk wasn't letting the square
end of the cable engage in the speedo.
    There you have it.  One FULL day of joy and things going right on a
LR.  If ever you feel down and frustrated, look back on this message and
remember that maybe one day you might have a day like mine too!  8^)

Regards,
Kirk
'The Banshee Hillman'  '66 SIIA SWB

--
"Faith without works is dead."

Maranatha, selah.

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 12:56:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Names, diffs and speedos

You Go Kirk,

If you've been lucky today, I'm going outside and fasten the newly bashed
mostly straight top onto my 88 RR (body damage by RR sex, attacked from behint
by 94 RR).  Hopes are that my luck matches yours.

Go Hillman.  

Zack Arbios

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From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 02:01:47 +0700
Subject: Car Talk

Just got an email from a friend in the US, will paste the LR relevant bit
below:

I listen
to "CarTalk" on NPR every week (you know the show with the two brothers
from Boston?).  A guy called the other day from Florida and said he was
going to be returning to his house in Costa Rica where his Isuzu Trooper
was having problems.  Knowing that parts were not as easy to come by down
there, he wanted to make sure that he got the right parts before going
down.  They talked for a while about other cars people had down there and
the guy said that most of the mechanics were really most comfortable
working on early 70's Land Rovers.  They recommended he take just one part
with him that would definitely take care of his problems:  an early 70's
Land Rover.

Regards,

John Baker
Bangkok

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 15:37:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Names, diffs and speedos

<< Anyway, the good news is that I got the two part LR II/IIa manual 
set,
the diff, and a bunch of other goodies for $350 CAN. (for those of you
who don't know, $1 US is worth, oh, 1000 CAN  :-) >>

 Quite a bargain Kirk. It`s great to hear that "The Banshee Hillman" is 
fit & well again.
 

 Paul

 Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:41

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:33:32 +0200
Subject: My diesel is letting off air

My 1997 109" diesel is getting better aall th etime. Now it has
freewheeling hubs, a new front propeller shaft and the hazard warnning
lights are working again.

 But there is still a couple of strange things going on. On the top of
the rockerbox cover ther is a black cap of some kind, a breather or
something, with a tube going into the intake manifold. Recently oil has
begun to leak from the aforementioned black cap. If I disconnect the
hose from the cap while the engine is running, there is overpressure
within the engine and there is a small jet of air/oil mist from the
hose.

Likewise if I open the oil filler cap while the engine is running, then
the oil filler tube ejects a fine oil mist. Looks somewheat like a steam
engine ;-)

I am a bit concerned about this. Does anyone have any hint on what the
cause to this internal overpressure in the engine could be and any cures
to this?

Regards,

Carl

P.S. Might I add that my LR burns a bit of oil and leaves a blue smoke
trail at times.
-- 
Carl P. Swensson	internet: cepe@online.no	
			telephone: +47-928 937 40
                        telefax:   +47-929 737 40
I speak for myself. I will tell you when I speak for someone else

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From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <rosvall@nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 18:52:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Toro Overdrive

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:53:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Car Talk

In a message dated 10/11/98 3:03:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
daddyo@loxinfo.co.th writes:

<< They talked for a while about other cars people had down there and
 the guy said that most of the mechanics were really most comfortable
 working on early 70's Land Rovers.  They recommended he take just one part
 with him that would definitely take care of his problems:  an early 70's
 Land Rover. >>

Sadly I must correct this:  They actually said "Land Cruisers"

Nate

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:11:51 -0500
Subject: Turn Signal Lenses

Time for a bit of minutia.  Anyone out there know what the proper glass
amber beehive turn signal lens should be for a 1960 Series II?  I have two
different lenses, marked as follows:

Lucas L639 Made in England

Sparto No. 57104 Made in England

This is the first time I have ever encountered a "Sparto" part.  I don't
think this is the original lens; however, it shows considerably more age
than its Lucas counterpart.  It is also more extreme in its pointedness
(like a '59 Cadillac) than the more squat and flat Lucas beehive.  Both are
held in place by screws.  Does anyone have any knowledge of these things? 
If the "Sparto" is the right lens, are they still available?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 01:24:48 +0200
Subject: Solihull email (cross posted)

Does anyone know if LR at Solihull has email capabilities or is snail mail
the only solution.

I'm trying to contact Eric Pagan - Traceability dept. re: some vehicle
manufacture info

Thanks

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'52 SI 80"

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 19:36:20 -0400
Subject: Breather

Teri Ann writes :-   There is a seporate breather hole for the transfer
case.  Look at the 
metal plate on top of the transfer case under the middle seat.  You 
should see a little hole that has a cotter pin or cotter pin like thing 
in the hole.  This is th etransfer case breather.  I drilled mine out and 
added a defender style axle breather tube.

 You have described the breather in the overdrive top plate. The transferbox
plate is plain, if yours has a cotter in it then some  PO made the mod.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 19:36:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Solihull email (cross posted)

In a message dated 10/11/98 4:30:16 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
riaanb@iafrica.com writes:

<< Does anyone know if LR at Solihull has email capabilities or is snail mail
 the only solution. >>

I don't think that there is e-mail.

There is a third solution that you didn't mention.  E-mail to fax in the UK.
You send e-mail to a particular address and it is converted to a fax.  The
company that provides the service uses this as a marketing tool.

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:02:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Turn Signal Lenses

:BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote:
:  Time for a bit of minutia.  Anyone out there know what the proper
glass
:amber beehive turn signal lens should be for a 1960 Series II?  I have
two
:different lenses, marked as follows:
:
:Lucas L639 Made in England
:
:Sparto No. 57104 Made in England
:
:This is the first time I have ever encountered a "Sparto" part.  I
don't
:think this is the original lens; however, it shows considerably more
age
:than its Lucas counterpart.  It is also more extreme in its pointedness

:(like a '59 Cadillac) than the more squat and flat Lucas beehive.  Both
are
:held in place by screws.  Does anyone have any knowledge of these
things?
:If the "Sparto" is the right lens, are they still available?

LR used both Lucas and Sparto lamps on SII's. The entire assemblies are
interchangable; the lenses are not (i.e. :Lucas lense doesn't fit Sparto
base). Turn signals (flashers) were optional except for SW's, though all
US vehicles may have had them fitted. One of our '60 SII's has Lucas,
the other has Sparto.

The L639 is shown for the front in the '65 Optional Equipment book with
LR part number 510178. Sparto is shown in the same book.

Some Sparto lenses are ocassionally offered by Craddock, Blanchard, etc.
If you're playing the restoration game and trying to have a 100%
"correct" vehicle, then either would do, though it sounds like the
Sparto was original. Otherwise, consider the difference to be part of
your LR's history. The definitive book on SII's has yet to be written.
LR appears to have used parts as available.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 18:42:12 -0600
Subject: RE:

Brian asked about the amber turn signal len's.

I too have a 1960; went outside to have a look at what I had. I got 3
different lens styles!!

3 are dome, 2 of which are shorter than the 1. The remaining lens is
flat on the outside, with a smaller dome. Too dark to see any numbers.

Hmmmm!! It's a good thing I'm not too worried about total originality!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:37:48 -0500
Subject: Hole in radiator

Is there an easy way to repair a VERY small hole in the top of an old style
llA radiator - or should I let the local radiator shop do it for me?

David Hope
64 llA

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:19:57 -0600
Subject: re: Radiator hole

Try some JB Weld. Just be sure it has time to "set" before you crank her up
and expose the underside to coolant spray. The only permanent solution is
to have it soldered up. This was done 5 yrs ago on dad's thick-tank rad
(now in Sidney), and it still doesn't leak. Oh yeah, I've found that if you
just take the rad in, shops will do about anything to it for $5-10, but if
you drive your car in, it'll be more like $30-50 or more!

-joseph and sidney
Missoula, MT

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:39:56 -0400
Subject: this list is not about aviation.

unless you're dropping LRs by parachute.

-B

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 17:46:18 -1000
Subject: Re: Radiator hole

>Try some JB Weld. Just be sure it has time to "set" before you crank her up
>and expose the underside to coolant spray.

Picked up a good sized stick a few years back.  Punctured 2 of the cooling
tubes in my radiator.  Mushed a goodsized blob of this stuff around the
area.  Made sure to get it in the cooling fins and all.  As of Aug when I
sold her, never leaked
just my $.02
Pete

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:55:58 EDT
Subject: Re: My diesel is letting off air

High Crankcase pressure and fine oil mist out the breather and oil filler cap.
Classic worn engine and blowby symptoms.  Rings and lower end.

Zack Arbios

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:58:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Toro Overdrive

Peter & Julie Rosvall wrote:

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:04:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Hole in radiator

Lead Solder, Propane torch, Plumbers Flux will fix your small radiator leak.
don't forget to remove the cap while soldering, and clean up before and after
to remove the flux. (water should do fine.).  Depending on the size of the
hole (small is in the mind of the beholder, just puddle a little above the
hole and you'll do fine.  If you are below the waterline, lower the level
before soldering or you won't be able to get the solder to flow.  

Zack Arbios
General Contractor.

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:49:19 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Solihull email (cross posted)

In a message dated 10/11/98 4:30:16 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
riaanb@iafrica.com writes:

<< Does anyone know if LR at Solihull has email capabilities or is snail mail
 the only solution. >>

I don't think that there is e-mail.

There is a third solution that you didn't mention.  E-mail to fax in the UK.
You send e-mail to a particular address and it is converted to a fax.  The
company that provides the service uses this as a marketing tool.

	[Attachment  removed, was 40 lines.]	

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 01:15:10 EDT
Subject: Re: LR in movies

Just saw "Ronin" and spotted three Range Rovers. (I think that two of them
were the same one.) 

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:21:01 +1000
Subject: GPS as Speedo

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:
>But the bottom line about speed and rovers is: Who cares!
>You're definitely not going to get a speeding ticket.

Luis, a recent issue of Overlander 4WD magazine (Australia) had a report of
a1948 Series 1 driver being given a ticket by our (far north) Queensland
(state) Highway Patrol for loitering a 100km/h zone. The Landie was
travelling at full speed of 80km/h.

Far North Queensland is a bit like the far south of the USA.

Ron

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From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:33:38 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: Power Steering

I also had a toyota power steering in a SIII I used the toyota Hilux power
steering. It is a straight forward job to install, remove from toyota, do
not remove pipes as they can be used as is. Remove steering relay and
install, the power box goes infront of the grill and connect to the drop
arm with the landy fittings.  I made the fittings for the pump myself.

I have sold the landy but it is still going strong.

Two day job.

Piet
P.A.H. Fourie   ( pah@saao.ac.za )
South African Astronomical Observatory.
P.O. Box 25 Sutherland 6920 South Africa.
Tel 023 5711135. Fax 023 5711413

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 02:36:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Just a Grunt

In a message dated 98-10-11 01:12:21 EDT, you write:

<< Never a round in anger, but 15 years humpin a ruck, mostly scout/lrp stuff.
 CAS is my FRIEND!!! Spent two years in the FRG mostly in Fulda.  Rest of my
 active time was with the 24th ID in GA.  Now just a weekend warrior, most
 recently 29th ID "Blue and Grey".
 >>

I was 1st Air Commando (later changed to the 1st SOS for political-correctness
sake), then a brief stint with the 919th as they changed over to later 'birds,
then with the 135th Airlift Wing, until my medical went through.

...even lifted an SAS 110 or two once, but that's another story. (LR content)

Charles

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