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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 07:48:17 -0400 
Subject: RE: Leaky Gas tank

A Bar of Ivory Soap.  (Karnak intones, holding the sealed envelope to his
forehead).

And the question is:  (...sound of envelope being ripped open)

What can one use to stop a pinhole leak in a gas tank?

Seriously. if you can locate the site of the leak, try rubbing a bar if
Ivory soap over it (like you were soaping windows at Halloween, as a kid).
For some mysterious reason, a bar of plain old Ivory soap has been known as
a stop leak for pinhole leaks in mortorcycle (painted steel) gas tanks for
years upon years.  And it lasts...until it starts leaking again or it rains,
whichever occurs first!

Honest  ;-)

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From: Arief Dharmawan <ardhar.nhl@usa.net>
Date:  6 Oct 98 19:01:21 JVT

unsubscribe

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From: Markexch@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 08:37:08 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I have tried to unsunbscribe to the lro-digest six times in the last few days 
PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THE LIST!!!!

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 08:41:47 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

PLEASE FOLLOW UNSUBSCRIBE DIRECTIONS THAT YOU REC'D WHEN YOU
SUBSCRIBED!!!!!

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 98 08:44:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring a CB radio 

>My CB radio worked fine until the factory harness burst into smoke 
>So for the reinstall of a similar harness I am planning the following:
>take the wire which says 'permenant power' direct to the battery.

well, yes, but the brown side of the fuse box is closer.

>take the wire that says 'to switched power' to an appropriate terminal in 
>the fuse box.

if you want this to work with the ignition on only than it should go to green
on my SIII it would be purple if you want to use it with the ignition off. 
Doubt there's any purple on a IIa...

>Both of these power leads have fuses by the way.

excellent. may keep from blowing the main fuse(s) 

have fun.
daveb

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From: "HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:25:11 -0600
Subject: Heater hose

     I used blue pool cleaner hose from the local builders supply for my 
     IIA amblance defrosters.  My heater core is between the seats and the 
     defroster tubes run across the floorboards, up the bulkhead, across 
     the top, and then finally, about the time all warmth has gone, after a 
     visit to grandma's house, on to the windscreen.  The major problem 
     with the old hose is people stepped on it and crushed it flat. I don't 
     havet THAT problem any more as the pool hose is quite rigid. Now, if I 
     just keep it warm up to the glass...
     
     Cheers,
     
     Cole Stage
     '67 IIA ambulance "Hefelump" (as in, it is as big as a ...)

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From: Art Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:23:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

Greetings,

Check out this site - they have lots of neat stuff - including one of the
best tank sealers around.

http://hirschauto.com/prod01.htm

Art
'72 S3 88
'69 TR6 PI
Boston, MA

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 07:26:09 -0600
Subject: RE: Leaking gas tank

Hi all--

Zack Arbious wrote about using a sheet metal screw to fix a leak in gas
tank-BTDT on a Honda motorcycle!! Was in Deepest New Mexico, we all
stopped for a break and I noticed gas pouring onto engine. Tank was
quickly pulled and a tiny pinhole was found. A search on the road found
a sheetmetal screw (for once not in a tire!!) That and some glue from a
tire patching kit fixed it for the ride home.

Aardvark only leaks when more than a half tank is in her. Appears to be
leaking around where tank mounts to frame. Going to pull the tank this
weekend and take a look see.

Found the POR-15 web site-will probably go that way.

Thanks for all the advice!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 08:33:21 -0700
Subject: Re: yadda yadda yadda...

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 23:51:12 +1000
Subject: . yadda yadda yadda...

.>> yadda yadda yadda...

>What does this mean?

Blah, blah, blah....

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:54:14 -0700
Subject: Warn #

My apologies for sending this through the list, but I'm having problems
with Ian's email delivery.

Ian,
If the 800# doesn't work, let me know and I'll get the address or regular #
for you.

You probably noticed that the part at the ratchet is the brake, not the
clutch as I first called it.
The clutch is the knob you pull/push to work.

Bob B

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 09:46:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 13:18:34 -0600
Subject: Leaky Gas tank

>"Aardvark" has sprung a leak. I have a steady drip from somewhere in
the
gas tank. What I'm thinking off is too mix up some fiberglass resin and
slosh it around and let cure. Need to do the fix on the cheap and quick
as she is a daily driver.

>Question is--is fibre glass resin gas proof?

>Or does anybody have a better liner substance?

I don't know if glass resin is fuel-proof or not.  I know the marine
industry is moving away from stainless steel for fuel tanks to using
"plastic."  But what kind of plastic, I don't know.  Assuming the leak
is a pinhole, you might try aircraft sloshing compound.  It is used to
seal the seams and small leaks in aircraft fuel tanks as an alternative
to buying a new, and extremely expensive, tank.  In the mid-1980s, the
original fuel tank in my 1973 Series III rusted out due to
"dirt-between-the-skid-pate-and-tank" syndrome.  Sooner or later, this
will happen to every Series fuel tank that has the skid plate attached
to the underside of the tank.  Anyway, the tank started seeping fuel.  I
removed it and discovered that it had rusted from the outside in and
there were numerous tiny pinholes all over the bottom.  A friend
recommended aircraft sloshing compound.  I bought a couple of cans of it
and followed the instructions.  Basically, you pour all or part of a
quart can (I can't remember now) into the tank and turn it in all
directions to spread the liquid over the entire interior surface.  You
then let it dry the specified time, and then repeat the process.  When
you're done, you've coated the inside of the tank with a rubbery layer
that is impervious to fuel.

It worked very well on my Series III for a month or so.  The dumb
mistake I made was in not accounting for my Land Rover's emission
system.  As built, the fuel system is "sealed" with an airtight fuel cap
and a tank vent hose coming from the charcoal cannister.  In putting the
tank back in the vehicle, I stupidly forgot to cut the center hole in
the new cork gasket I made for the breather line.  I guess there was
enough air leakage past the filler cap gasket and perhaps the vent
gasket to allow sufficient air into the tank so it would at least feed
the fuel pump.  But there must have been very low pressure inside the
tank because the sloshing compound coating was pulled away from the
surface of the tank which let fuel in behind it, and my leak(s) started
again.  But as long as you don't duplicate my lapse of intelligence, the
sloshing compound should work unless the holes in the tank are large.
The sloshing compound is designed to seal seams that start seeping fuel
and pinhole leaks, not big holes as the liquid will simply run out the
holes.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:49:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

>Someone posted about welding galvanized steel.

>First of all, it's VERY DANGEROUS due to zinc fumes. This
>stuff is highly toxic and should be done only with (I imagine)
>a very expensive respirator and exhaust system operating.

I got a galvanized rear crossmember a while back and welded it onto my 88
using an oxy-fuel rig.  Because of the broad heat application inherent in
that type of welding I was concerned about zinc fumes even though I had
ground the zinc off where I needed to weld.  I don't have big bucks for a
respirator and my 88 was in the garage and immovable, so fresh air was in
short supply.

My solution was to lay a 50' garden hose out in the yard and lead it into
the garage.  I put on the goggles, lit the torch, stuck the hose in my
mouth, and proceeded to weld away.  My first bead was interrupted, however,
when my lungs had used up all of the oxygen in the first 5 ft of the hose.
I then hit upon the idea of inhaling through the hose and exhaling out of
my nose.  Thus I always had a fresh supply of oxygen.  Piece of cake.

The welding went very well, and I never suffered any ill effects (as far as
I can tell).  Though it did leave sort of a plastic taste in my mouth.

Just an idea.

-Ben Nibali
 Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 06:56:01 -1000
Subject: Re: 109 soft top for sale

Sounds like someone got it from R-North (New for 1200) and figures 1k is a
good deal.

>In a message dated 98-10-06 00:28:11 EDT, you write:
><< hi everyone ,i have a soft top with hoop set for sale it will fit a 109

2
> door ,its sand in colour also has roll up sides with windows.it is brand
> new still in the box.im asking $1000.00 for everything this is a complete

>...you're not in much of a hurry to sell it, are you?
>Latest LROI, page 48, Paddocks advertisement, lower L.H. corner:
>Canvas hood, 109 full, FROM GBP 133.36 / Side windows are extra GBP 17.63.
>This equals to about $270.00.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 07:08:58 -1000
Subject: Welding Galvinized Thanks

Thanks to all for the info.  I really like the garden hose idea.  Think I
will set up an exhaust fan.
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 07:36:57 -1000
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

>Isn't this maybe because the galvanised parts are electro-galvanised and
>not hot-dipped? Electro-galvanising is not poisonous (the zinc doesn't
>come off) and most BBQ grids are electro-galvanised. As far as I know
>the electro process is surface conversion rather than surface adhesion.

Was wondering if this was true?  Also does anyone know what method is used
on galvanised sheetmetal?  It seems that because of the rust issue, cold
rolled sheet is hard to find in Honolulu, it is all galv.
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 14:03:02 -0400
Subject: steel in hawaii

Peter, you're just not shopping at the right stores. Any steel supply 
should carry or be able to get regular uncoated steel sheet in any guage. 
What else would you repair boats with? If you are asking for 'sheetmetal' 
that implies the kind used for ducts.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: steel in hawaii

At 02:03 PM 10/6/98 -0400, Bill Adams wrote:
>Peter, you're just not shopping at the right stores. Any steel supply 
>should carry or be able to get regular uncoated steel sheet in any guage. 
>What else would you repair boats with?

 Aluminum, fiberglas or carbon fiber for boats;
 steel sheets for ships. 

>If you are asking for 'sheetmetal' that implies the kind used for ducts.

 Yup, poor choice in terminology.  Try 'steel components'
 or 'steel sheets'.

-Michael

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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 12:44:23 -0700
Subject: Weber 32/36

Hello fellow members.  I just got my new weber DVG in the mail today.  I
am excited about installing it, but have no instructions and am not even
sure I have all the parts to do so.  I have the Pierce intake manifold
and the carb, as well as the air cleaner and another 'arm' that I
believe is supposed to be used in a cable linkage system.  Please, if
anyone has instructions (anything at all) PLEASE let me know.  I have no
intention of putting the rover out of commission for another prolonged
period.  I would rather be enjoying it until I know what I am doing to
install this thing.
    BTW, I remember vaguely a thread about weber info, but I don't
recall who was asking who else would like a copy.  If that member is
still here, ME, ME, ME (picture a guy in a high school desk with his
hand in the air hopping up and down in his seat, that is me)  8^)

Thanks all,
Kirk

--
"Faith without works is dead."

Maranatha, selah.

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 13:09:34 -0700
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

This is the list, not the Major. Read the instructions to unsubscribe
and stop yelling at us.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

Markexch@aol.com wrote:
> I have tried to unsunbscribe to the lro-digest six times in the last few days
> PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THE LIST!!!!

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From: masmith <masmith@bconnex.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 15:21:17 -0400

first of all i dont think im asking too much for it .it is genuine from
paddocks.if you buy one from rovers north i dont think its genuine and
second if you live in canada you have a choice buy from the uk ,or thanks
to nafta get ripped off from the states.it is a very fare price and if i
dont sell it then oh well!!!.the main reason for my comments is because i
dont want emails telling me what things are worth or telling me where i can
get things at a cheeper price. i  know that if anyone has something im
interestad in trading ill consider it .but for now its for sale 

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 13:17:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Weber 32/36

The webber info was diagrams  and notes for the 34ich 1bbl. I can send
it to you if you think it would be of any help. Let me know as the size
is 1.2meg.
Jim Hall 
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

Kirk Hillman wrote:

>     BTW, I remember vaguely a thread about weber info, but I don't
> recall who was asking who else would like a copy.  If that member is
> still here, ME, ME, ME (picture a guy in a high school desk with his
> hand in the air hopping up and down in his seat, that is me)  8^)

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 

At 03:21 PM 10/6/98 -0400, masmith <masmith@bconnex.net> wrote:
:first of all i dont think im asking too much for it .it is genuine from
:paddocks.if you buy one from rovers north i dont think its genuine and
:second if you live in canada you have a choice buy from the uk ,or thanks
:to nafta get ripped off from the states.it is a very fare price and if i
:dont sell it then oh well!!!.the main reason for my comments is because i
:dont want emails telling me what things are worth or telling me where i can
:get things at a cheeper price. i  know that if anyone has something im
:interestad in trading ill consider it .but for now its for sale 

 What are you writing about??

-Michael

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 14:24:36 -0500
Subject: Parts Prices

I became aware of two things today. One good and one bad.
The good one is that I found a store that sells Land Rover parts at a
fraction of what the dealer does. What they dont have they can get, at least
they say.
For example, the LR dealer wanted $27 for the 4 front signal and position
lights lenses. This people only charged me  $8.30 for them. LR original.

The bad thing is that last thursday I went LR-shopping, and I bought two
ball joints to the LR dealer. How much?: $151.
This newly discovered store had them too. The guy even showed them to me,
almost same thing (the direrence: this ones could be greased, the ones I
bought were sealed). Their price: $33. Cant belive it.

What amazed me more was that they had no computer. The guy had memorized ALL
the parts numbers!!!!! I just asked for something and the guy told the other
one the part number. The other one ran to look for it and he was right every
time. Simply amazing.

I think I made new friends today!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 16:35:29 -0400
Subject: 4 wheel drive

..........When locked in the down position the 4WD locking pin causes the link 
between the high/low selector rod and the 4WD selector rod to act as a 
pivot, correct?

So for four wheel drive/lowrange the high low rod moves aft and the 4WD 
rod moves forward?

I'm just making sure that I've got the concept correct...The drawings in 
the workshop manual aren't very intuitive. I'ts hard to tell the 
operating position of the locking dog on the front output shaft.

I guess I'll be pulling the transfer case for dissassembly and 
investigation...unless anyone has a better idea!

 Correct, howver  it is not necessary to pull the transfer box, the front
drive box can be removed with the box in situ, without removing the transfer
box.
 Inside there is a dog clutch, which as you have pointed out is spring
activated.
 One fix is to remove all the   cranks etc and add a lever to the 4 wheel
drive selector, this then enables a more positive selection of 4 wd.  I have
a conversion on mine which enables hi low and  2 - 4 wheel drive to be
selected with one lever.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 16:39:15 -0400
Subject: Lucas

Luis writes YES, I have a "original" Lucas fuel filter on the LR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In case you are not already aware your fuel system was made by Lucas too .
CAV is a subsidiary of Lucas, as is Girling Brakes, so you also have Lucas
Brakes !!! Lucas filters are made by Crosland, which is a also a subsidiary.
Sorry to spoil your illusions !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:41:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Parts Prices

That's cool - it's too bad us usa'ers can't just go down the street and buy
LR parts.    :   (

"Yo Joey, gimme a 011296! - And make it snappy!!"

Cheers - Peter

>I became aware of two things today. One good and one bad.
>The good one is that I found a store that sells Land Rover parts at a
>fraction of what the dealer does. What they dont have they can get, at least
>they say.
>For example, the LR dealer wanted $27 for the 4 front signal and position
>lights lenses. This people only charged me  $8.30 for them. LR original.
>The bad thing is that last thursday I went LR-shopping, and I bought two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>I think I made new friends today!
>Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 14:52:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Lucas

>Luis writes YES, I have a "original" Lucas fuel filter on the
LR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>In case you are not already aware your fuel system was made by Lucas too .
>CAV is a subsidiary of Lucas, as is Girling Brakes, so you also have Lucas
>Brakes !!! Lucas filters are made by Crosland, which is a also a

subsidiary.
>Sorry to spoil your illusions !!!

Oh well, sometimes ignorance can make you happy, when you are in no position
to be so.
Thanks for putting my feet on the ground. :-(

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Dr. Russ" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:56:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribing

Hey guys, chill...seems as though Bill C's Empire has hidden
away all the instructions for subscribing and unsubscribing that
used to be accessible via the click of a button...

Bill, you may wanna have a look at fixin' it...really cannot
expect that people will hold onto the unsubscribe instructions
forever, especially once struck with the euphoria of having just
joined such a magnificent list and bought their first Rover.

Used to be, you simply sent a message to:

majordomo@land-rover.team.net

and put in the _body_ of the message:

unsubscribe lro <you're complete email address>

and I suspect this might just work.  Give it time and 
unsubscribe to all the lists you want.  Sometimes the major
takes a holiday, and this typically happens when Bill is out
of town...If the above does not work after a day or three,
sending more messages to the list will only result in frustration
for all.  Write directly to Bill Callocia (uh, methinks
it's wpc@callocia.net), and please be polite about it.  He does
this stuff for nuthin'.

rgds,
rd/nige

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From: "Dr. Russ" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:01:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribing revisited

***
Used to be, you simply sent a message to:

majordomo@land-rover.team.net

and put in the _body_ of the message:

unsubscribe lro <you're complete email address>
***

oops, if it's the digest you're sick of, it's 
probably:

unsubscribe lro-digest <you're complete email address>

sorry for the wasted bandwidth,
rd/nige

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 15:03:57 -0500
Subject: RE: Parts Prices

>That's cool - it's too bad us usa'ers can't just go down the street and buy
>LR parts.    :   (

I wish you could. It gives you a feeling of confidence to be able to.

>"Yo Joey, gimme a 011296! - And make it snappy!!"
>LR parts.    :   (

You got the picture! But it was incredibly accurate, like:

"-Hey Joey wait. Sorry sir, what year you said it was, 1985?
-No, 1986.
-Joey, dont bring the 011296, get a TDGB012323 instead!!"

Funny place!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Bob Frey <frey@pvr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 14:14:45 -0700
Subject: Re: 4 wheel drive

> Correct, howver  it is not necessary to pull the transfer box, the front
>drive box can be removed with the box in situ, without removing the transfer
>box.

I thought this might be the case...but it appeared that the long high/low 
selector rod has to slide forward out of the the transfer box...and I 
wasn't sure there was enough forward room for the front housing to do 
this.

> One fix is to remove all the   cranks etc and add a lever to the 4 wheel
>drive selector, this then enables a more positive selection of 4 wd.  I have
>a conversion on mine which enables hi low and  2 - 4 wheel drive to be
>selected with one lever.

Is this a commercially available conversion or one you 
concocted...details? Inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks for the help!

Bob Frey
'65 SIIA 88

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:23:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

In a message dated 10/6/98 11:55:42 AM SA Pacific Standard Time,
BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com writes:

<< My solution was to lay a 50' garden hose out in the yard and lead it into
 the garage.  I put on the goggles, lit the torch, stuck the hose in my
 mouth, and proceeded to weld away.  My first bead was interrupted, however,
 when my lungs had used up all of the oxygen in the first 5 ft of the hose.
 I then hit upon the idea of inhaling through the hose and exhaling out of
 my nose.  Thus I always had a fresh supply of oxygen.  Piece of cake. >>

Someone's gotta ask: "And how far did the golfball get..."

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 15:08:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Parts Prices

At 03:03 PM 10/6/98, LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> wrote:
:
:>That's cool - it's too bad us usa'ers can't just go down the street and buy
:>LR parts.    :   (
:I wish you could. It gives you a feeling of confidence to be able to.
:
:>"Yo Joey, gimme a 011296! - And make it snappy!!"
:>LR parts.    :   (
:
:You got the picture! But it was incredibly accurate, like:
:
:"-Hey Joey wait. Sorry sir, what year you said it was, 1985?
:-No, 1986.
:-Joey, dont bring the 011296, get a TDGB012323 instead!!"
:
:Funny place!

 Now if only we could find an attorney that can quote code
 sections and know the law as well...  for 1/4 of the price.
 (Present company excepted of course ;)

-Michael

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:32:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Parts Prices

> Now if only we could find an attorney that can quote code
> sections and know the law as well...  for 1/4 of the price.
> (Present company excepted of course ;)
>-Michael

I always had a hard time memorizing lists of things. Multiplying tables were
my biggest nightmare in school.

I can tell you what the law says, but I have to check to tell you where.
Sorry to disapoint you. :-[

LR content: What a great view of my truck I have from my office window!!
(Well, I had to put some LR in it!)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:44:54 -1000
Subject: Re: steel in hawaii

Ok, Thanks
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:48:06 -1000
Subject: Re: Weber 32/36

Jim,
If ya wouldn't mind I would like a copy also.  The Rover I am looking at has
a 1brl Webber on it.
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:52:05 -0500
Subject: Power Steering

I dont remember who asked the list about it, but I remember reading
something about it.

I spoke today with a man who told me that he had installed on his SIII the
power steering box of a Toyota. Told me that it was very simple and straight
forward. The guy who made the job for him charged him only $60 for doing it.
He was very happy with the setup, and assured me that it was the best
improvement he had made to it.
He was't able to remember from what toyota he took the parts form. Anyway,
the thing is that it can be made, and it is supposed to be a simple
adaptation.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:51:41 -1000
Subject: Re: Lucas

>CAV is a subsidiary of Lucas, as is Girling Brakes, so you also have Lucas
>Brakes !!! Lucas filters are made by Crosland, which is a also a
subsidiary.

The clutch Master cyl on my Cherokee is made by Girling.  Tried to find a
rebuild kit for it, was told not available.  Would need to get a new master
for 150$$$.  No thanks, 'tis the same as a 75 Spitfire clutch master.
Hehehe

Pete

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 19:32:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

Is this about welding Monica?

Zack

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 13:41:41 -1000
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

Sorry, don't 'get' it
Pete

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 19:57:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

> Isn't this maybe because the galvanised parts are electro-galvanised
> and
> not hot-dipped? Electro-galvanising is not poisonous (the zinc doesn't
> come off) and most BBQ grids are electro-galvanised. As far as I know
> the electro process is surface conversion rather than surface
> adhesion.

It doesn't make any difference other than the thickness of the zinc
layer. BBQ grilles, etc. are electro-plated with chrome (and/or nickel?)
like some car trim, not with zinc. Electro-plating is the process of
depositing the plating metal, it is not chemical "conversion" of the
surface. Zinc from electro-galvanizing will vaporize just like the zinc
from hot dipping, and the vapors are poisonous.

Before welding galvanized grind the zinc from the area to be welded and
surrounding area while wearing a good dust mask since the zinc particles
are also poisonous if inhaled or ingested. Arrange lots of forced
ventilation.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Mehdi Sagahfi <msandcdg@slip.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 18:03:48 +0000
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

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From: Iwan Vosloo <iwan@global.co.za>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 06:28:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Overdrives, Ashcroft Conversion's alternative

Peter,

>No, there are no modifications. I recently changed the timing chain which
>improved things. Everything is original. I would be interested in something
>though that would give slightly more power, maybe a freeflow system. Anyone
>tested that? I assume my engine is in good condition and I thank the PO for
>that. 

I have broken some of my more purist habits last year and installed a
free flow system installed in mine with a 4 into 1 branch and it
improved my power & torque quite a bit.  Brian Cotton of the za-list
also have such a system installed with a 4 into 2 into 1 branch which
apparently is better.  I would be interested how the power improvement
of such a setup would perform with your gearing... I can really
recommend the free-flow (except for the noise it now makes - grunt
became a roar).

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 22:26:50 -0400
Subject: VT/NH Off-road trip this weekend. 

We can no longer accept anymore trucks for this weekends trip. We have a
full count of vehicles  for both days. 15 trucks each day. Anyone wishing to
come along, I'm sure we can find a seat for you in a truck !

The leaves will be at their peak this weekend, there is rain in the forecast
for the end of the week, but the weekend is supposed to be good.

Looking forward to meeting everyone this weekend.

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From: Harald Hansen <harald74@online.no>
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 08:49:08 +0200
Subject: Overdrive oil

Hello!

Does an overdrive unit have it's own oil, or does it share it with the
main gear box?  And, if it has, where's the filling plug?

Regards
Harald

-- 
Harald Hansen                       #========#       1976 Land Rover
Student, strategy gamer, LR owner   |___|__|__\___   Series III 109"
E-mail at: harald74@online[DOT]no   |  _|  |   |_ |}  Station Wagon
(Replace the [DOT] with a dot)      ""(_)""""""(_)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:13:06 +0100
Subject: Anyone there???

Are you receiving my messages???

I am receiving the messages from the list but as before when I posted my 
messages it was posted again to me on the list now it is not.

Thanks
Geoffrey 
Malta

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From: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se (Peter =?iso-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?= )
Date: 	Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:13:30 +0200
Subject: Re: Overdrives, Ashcroft Conversion's alternative

Iwan,
>I have broken some of my more purist habits last year and installed a
>free flow system installed in mine with a 4 into 1 branch and it
>improved my power & torque quite a bit.  Brian Cotton of the za-list
>also have such a system installed with a 4 into 2 into 1 branch which
>apparently is better.  I would be interested how the power improvement
>of such a setup would perform with your gearing... I can really
>recommend the free-flow (except for the noise it now makes - grunt
>became a roar).

Do you have the name of a supplier of this freeflow system that will fit a
LR? Can I design a system myself using 2" parts?

/Peter

Peter Thoren, PhD.
Department of Genetics, Uppsala University
Box 7003, S-750 07 Uppsala, Sweden
Fax +46 18 67 27 05
Tel +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64
e-mail: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Thorsten Klein <kleit001@mail.Uni-Mainz.de>
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:12:35 +0200
Subject: BB-list members, problems with delivery

Hello all members of our brotherhood,

Trevor Easton has asked me to post a note to the list, because the last
edition of the BB-list (22.09.98) was undeliverable for about 50% of the
postboxes. So, everybody, who have not get the list please sent his
current email-address to Trevor at bluerover@unforgettable.com

Bye, Thorsten

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:13:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Parts Prices

I have a friend that used to restore TR-3's, though he sold parts for nearly
all Brit cars: his specialty was Lucas - new, and old - especially old. He,
and another friend of his in the biz, could spend days, running off part
numbers from the tops of their heads!

Reminds me of Rain Man: this guy is brilliant with part numbers, but if you
ask him a question eye to eye, about say, his wifes' birthday, it'll take him
10 minutes to answer you - and it'll be a wrong answer! (he forgot his wifes'
birthday this year, and I even gave him a hint: hers is 2 days from mine!)

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:15:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Anyone there???

Gotcha!

Charles

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From: Ed Alvarez <alvarez@btnmail.mozcom.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:20:51 +0800
Subject: erratic temperature gauge

Hello List,

i was wondering if anyone can help me with a little problem i've got with
my d90's electrical system.

as i drive the car, the temp. gauge suddenly goes to the red mark and moves
from there to the middle.  this also happens when i turn on the lights.  At
times i think the headlights are slightly dimmer than usual.  I'm
suspecting a ground somewhere, any ideas as to how to troubleshoot the
system to find out where the trouble is?

i'm far from the service center, and i don't really trust the automotive
electricians here, where i am, so i would like to know what is happening
and what i should be doing before i talk to one.

i drive with the air conditioner on most of the time.

thank you 

Ed Alvarez
Butuan City 
Philippines

D90

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From: "Tom Rowe/CDR" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 05:39:56 +0100
Subject: Re: erratic temperature gauge

wrote

>i was wondering if anyone can help me with a little problem i've got
with
>my d90's electrical system.

snip
>so i would like to know what is happening
>and what i should be doing before i talk to one.

The ground is a likely suspect, as you mention. Just follow the leads
to find it (I'm not familar with the d90 electrical system). If the
guages use an external voltage stabalizer like the Series vehicles
did (I don't think many do these days) that may be at fault.
The best solution, however, is to replace your electrical guage and
sender with a mechanical one.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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