L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

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1 77[not specified]
2 Leger Marc-Andre [mleger26RE: Snorkels
3 Peter Goundry [peterg@ai14Badges and Foriegn objects in Electr
4 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us23Re: winter is coming, extra heat?
5 Tim Harincar [harincar@C26Welding Galvanized
6 Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.c35Home!
7 "Hastelow, Simon - DM/NT24Re: Winter is coming
8 "Tackley, John" [jtackle37Mid Atlantic Rally
9 bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bo30Warn winch
10 CIrvin1258@aol.com 18Re: Americans love of SCUDS
11 Paul Lonsdale [Lonsdale@23Re: Going swimming with the rover...
12 Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.c565th annual Mid-Atlantic Land-Rover Ralleye
13 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet19Re: Badges and Foriegn objects in Electr
14 Bob Frey [frey@pvr.com> 29Help with SIIA xfer case woes
15 Art Bitterman [artbitt@r19Leaky Gas tank
16 "Peter Hope" [phope@hawa19Re: Welding Galvanized
17 Todd_Wilson@ccmail.colum22Re: Leaky Gas tank
18 bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bo44Warn 8247
19 "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" 29RE: Lucas "things"
20 Sski3@aol.com 10 Going swimming with the rover...
21 "David and Cynthia Walke47BKP Grill Badge
22 "M. Tompkins" [mmglass@i23Re: BKP Grill Badge
23 "David Hope" [davidjhope31Wiring a CB radio
24 john cranfield [john.cra17Re: ARB Lockers for Forward Control
25 Zaxcoinc@aol.com 31Re: Leaky Gas tank
26 Dan & Sally Cantwell [dc17Re: Leaky Gas tank
27 Solihull@aol.com 25CB giving smoke signals
28 jimfoo@uswest.net 18Re: Leaky Gas tank
29 "Clayton Kirkwood" [kirk17Series II heater hose substitute
30 masmith [masmith@bconnex11109 soft top for sale
31 MARCINKO3@aol.com 7unsubscribe
32 CIrvin1258@aol.com 32Re: 109 soft top for sale
33 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu22Re: Welding Galvanized


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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 07:36:16 -0400 
Subject: RE: Snorkels

Me...

1994 D-90 and 71 sIIA lightweight

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."
Albert Einstein  

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:47:17 -0400 
Subject: Badges and Foriegn objects in Electr 

<<Benjamin Smith wrote:  Lucas also made some landing gear components
for the F/A-18.  After 100 or 200 mid-air emergencies, the US Gov't sued
Lucas. This was about 4 years ago.  YMMV.>>

I didn't realise the US pilots flew around the skies with their landing
gear down!! :-)

Peter Goundry

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 8:54:04 -0400
Subject: Re: winter is coming, extra heat?

My advice is to keep the engine running until warm weather returns. It 
should sit and idle happily all day with little harm. 
If this is impractical, there are propane fired engine heaters available 
that will operate without external power. 
Batteries are the big concern. The engine will start given the glow plugs 
are in good condition, but if the battery freezes...
Also try to park with the truck pointed downhill. A roll-start can often 
help when batteries are weak.
As for keeping warm...forget it...the diesel runs too cold. Keep extra 
blankets and a small supply of food for those times when you just can't 
get it going...and bring a date!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:05:29 -0500 
Subject: Welding Galvanized

Someone posted about welding galvanized steel. 

First of all, it's VERY DANGEROUS due to zinc fumes. This stuff is highly
toxic and should be done only with (I imagine) a very expensive respirator
and exhaust system operating. 

Other than that, once you melt the zinc off, it would weld like any steel.
Then you have to regalvanize, of course. 

You may look into having all the parts stripped first, maybe a galvanizing
shop can strip the parts for zinc, rust, etc., you do the weld, then have it
all galvanized again.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@camworks.com
Camworks, St. Paul, MN
http://www.camworks.com
Internet Solutions that Power Business 

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From: Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:12:26 -0500
Subject: Home!

eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) on 10/05/98 09:10:35 AM

Please respond to Mostly Metro <mostlymetro@clio.lyris.net>

cc:    (bcc: Ray Burton/SABRE/US)
Subject:  Home!

Baby and I got back from Penlan with a glow unbecoming the weather. Just
wanted to congratulate all the ROAV folks who did their usual magnificent
job at the Mid Atlantic.

Brothers Grice and Motley especially deserve kudos, but that is just my
shortlist.

Frank, where did you find those bumps (mother of all speed bumps) along the
edge of that field? They are not, repeat not, mere agricultural furrows.
Now, if I had remembered to engage BOTH front hubs, maybe Baby would have
conquered your water trap.

:-)

    _____
___(_____)               "A breakfast without grits is like a
|Baby the\               highway sign without bullet holes: it
|1969 Land\_===__        just isn't credible."
   ___Rover   ___|o            - Proprietor of the Smokey Pig
|_/ . \______/ .  ||             at the Mid-Atlantic Rally
 __\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

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From: "Hastelow, Simon - DM/NT" <simon.hastelow@dailymail.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 98 15:24:00 PDT
Subject: Re: Winter is coming

There was an article in LRO some time ago about engine heaters.

Theone that I thought was most interesting was manufactured by EBERSPACHER - 
spelling?

this unit would run on either petrol or diesel and so could be run without 
needing to be connected to the mains electric.

it came with a timer too so you could set itto start automatically.

I think the diesel version could be DIY fit but they recommended having the 
petrol version fitted professionally - unless you REALLY know what you are 
doing.

at the time I enquired it was about 600UK

swh
97 discovery TdiS

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:28:04 -0400 
Subject: Mid Atlantic Rally

I wish to extend my sincere thanks to all that helped organize and operate
the as usually excellent Mid Atlantic Rally this past weekend, at Penlan
Farm in Buckingham County, VA.  

That would include Nancy and Mike McKaig as hosts, Sandy Grice as prime
organizer, Mike Boggs and Frank for their choice of challenging off road
Poker Run obstacles (which included the 'cruise' halfway across the James
River and back, the 'washboard field from hell', and the 'Muddy Creek drop &
climb'), Quintin Aspen for the water rescue and a host of others who set up
tables and chairs, marshalled the Poker Run and winched, snatched or pushed
stranded and stuck LRs (and LROs).  

Job well done.

I spent Sunday beginning to repair the damage done...a right rear spring
hanger which decided it liked being at  the top of the frame instead of
welded to the bottom thereof (nothing 4 hours of cutting and welding didn't
fix - thanks, Larry Smith for the shop space, tools and very competent
help), a starter that doesn't start anymore (after no doubt, drowning in the
James), and a substantial drop in M/C brake fluid level (as yet
unexplained)...and I haven't had time to check diffs, etc. for water.

If we didn't play so hard we wouldn't break 'em so bad...but what fun would
that be?

I had a great time meeting old and making new friends, and forming lasting
memories.  My thanks also extend to all attendees without whom there would
not have been a '98 MAR.

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:46:01 -0700
Subject: Warn winch

>From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
>Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 09:15:05 +0000
>Subject: Winch Woes
>I have a standard issue Warn 8247 winch that seems to have a problem
>with the freewheel.  When I disengage the LHS know to allow it to
>freewheel, I can't just pull out the cable, as the ratchet check on the
>LHS stops it from going out. 

Hi Ian,
Lube the pivot of the outside plate of the clutch part of the ratchet so it
can turn seperately then turn it out a little. (unscrew)
Mine did the same thing last winter, and the Warn instructions give the
solution. 
The clutch could be worn, but mine wern't worn just binding.
Even though I bought my winch used, when I called the Warn 800 number, they
mailed me the instruction manual. They are very helpful.

Bob B

Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Nelly"

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:38:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Americans love of SCUDS

In a message dated 98-10-04 20:33:35 EDT, you write:

<< Last Month we got a Brand new Model 29 S&W-mint. Was stolen from a
 gunshop and used in a hold-up-no shots were ever fired in it!!Hurt us to
 take the torch to it!! Unfortunatly the sheriff made SURE we torched
 that one!! >>

Damn! I always wanted one of those (must be the Dirty Harry in me). One of
these days...It'll even fit in the cubby box under the seat in my 109 (LR
content).

Charles

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:38:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Going swimming with the rover...

<< While this is very nice, it's for the wrong piece of equipment. I 
really should have said "coiler" instead of "CSer," anyway; the 
reference to
the CSO list was apparently too vague. >>

 I think you will find the 1998 Defender is equipped with coil 
springs...
 
 And in the UK many if not most Discoverys have the TDi motor.

 Paul

 Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:17

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:31:02 -0500
Subject: 5th annual Mid-Atlantic Land-Rover Ralleye

Congratulations and thanks need to be expressed for all the hard work
performed by Mike & Nancy McCaig, Sandy Grice, Mike Boggs, Frank Motley and
anyone else involved in preparing for and conducting another excellent
ralleye.

Many thanks to Land Rover Richmond for their support and the 3 excellent
50th birthday cakes, which we all enjoyed.

The poker run was quite enjoyable by both participants and spectators.

I always look forward to meeting with and sharing a pint with Rover
friends, some of whom I may see only 1 weekend a year.

There were many new faces and Rovers here.  Many of us were able to meet
the people behind the faceless e-maill address they've been conversing with
for so long.  Unfortunately, many who we have been accustomed to seeing
every year (O.V.L.R., R.O.V.E.R.S. & B.S.L.R.C.)  were not able to make it
to Penlan Farm this year.  I sincerely hope that they will all be able to
attend next year.

As well as the "Hooligans" in the upper end of the field and the
Georgia/SOLAROS contingent, we now have the Tidewater "Shantytown"
encampment in the lower corner centered around Robert Davis ex-MOD
carowagon.

Although there was not an award for the attendee who'd travelled the
furthest, that honor goes to James Spence, an Englishman who now appears to
be a citizen of the world via his global travels.  He recently arrived from
Sydney, Australia, attended the British Car Day at Berkley Plantation last
month and stayed around to attend our ralleye.  I am proud to have
navigated him through the blind-fold driving event without knocking down a
single cone.  (I hope that he's able to repair the damage sustained while
off-roading late Friday night.)  James, Good luck in all your travels!

As always, "The Smokey Pig" of Ashland, Va. served their excellent chopped
Bar-B-Q, bar-b-ques chicken and outstanding ribs!  They returned the next
morning to serve a very delicious brunch.

The blue-grass musicians playing after dinner received an appreciative
audience down in "Shantytown" and played til after midnight.

Sunday morning's Rover dog competion was quite entertaining and I hope will
be repeated next year.  Maybe there will be an Aluminium Dog trophy (a
aluminum box of dog biscuits) as well as the Aluminum Man Triatelon trophy.

Cheers,
Ray Burton

PS - Hopefully, "Brown Bess" will have her repairs made and will be able to
compete next time.

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 11:15:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Badges and Foriegn objects in Electr

Peter Goundry wrote:

> <<Benjamin Smith wrote:  Lucas also made some landing gear components
> for the F/A-18.  After 100 or 200 mid-air emergencies, the US Gov't sued
> Lucas. This was about 4 years ago.  YMMV.>>
> I didn't realise the US pilots flew around the skies with their landing
> gear down!! :-)

No but the indicators probably told them it was down anyway :) ... sort of
like the
oil level or brake lights in RRs

Jeremy

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From: Bob Frey <frey@pvr.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:16:00 -0700
Subject: Help with SIIA xfer case woes

My SIIA transfor case will not engage 4WD. I took the linkage and dust 
covers off the front of the front output shaft housing this week end...it 
appears that the 4WD selector rod is pretty stuck. 

This is supposed to move towards the front of the vehicle for 4WD, 
correct?

When locked in the down position the 4WD locking pin causes the link 
between the high/low selector rod and the 4WD selector rod to act as a 
pivot, correct?

So for four wheel drive/lowrange the high low rod moves aft and the 4WD 
rod moves forward?

I'm just making sure that I've got the concept correct...The drawings in 
the workshop manual aren't very intuitive. I'ts hard to tell the 
operating position of the locking dog on the front output shaft.

I guess I'll be pulling the transfer case for dissassembly and 
investigation...unless anyone has a better idea!

Bob Frey
'65 SIIA 88

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 13:18:34 -0600
Subject: Leaky Gas tank

Hi All

"Aardvark" has sprung a leak. I have a steady drip from somewhere in the
gas tank. What I'm thinking off is too mix up some fiberglass resin and
slosh it around and let cure. Need to do the fix on the cheap and quick
as she is a daily driver.

Question is--is fibre glass resin gas proof?

Or does anybody have a better liner substance?

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:29:36 -1000
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

Thanks.
I do find it strange with todays "sue em all" atitude in the USA that parts
distributers do not have any sort of disclaimer in the catalogs with the
galvinized parts they carry.  They mention what the DIY needs to weld on
these parts but that is all.
Just an observation, no I am not planning a class action suit or anything.
Aloha
Pete

>Someone posted about welding galvanized steel.
>First of all, it's VERY DANGEROUS due to zinc fumes. This stuff is highly
>toxic and should be done only with (I imagine) a very expensive respirator
>and exhaust system operating.

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From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:37:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

     

     
"Aardvark" has sprung a leak. I have a steady drip from somewhere in the 
gas tank. What I'm thinking off is too mix up some fiberglass resin and 
slosh it around and let cure. Need to do the fix on the cheap and quick 
as she is a daily driver.
     
Question is--is fibre glass resin gas proof?
     
Or does anybody have a better liner substance?
     
  I've used "West systems epoxy" in a leaking motorcycle fel tank with no 
  problems.
  
  tew

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 13:27:45 -0700
Subject: Warn 8247

>From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
>Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 09:15:05 +0000
>Subject: Winch Woes
>I have a standard issue Warn 8247 winch that seems to have a problem
>with the freewheel.  When I disengage the LHS know to allow it to
>freewheel, I can't just pull out the cable, as the ratchet check on the
>LHS stops it from going out. 

Hi Ian,
I dug out the Warn stuff that they sent me so here's more info:
I believe I called 1-800-543-9276 for Warn.

They sent install instructions, operatoes manual, and a parts catalog,
along with a trouble shooting repair guide of several pages.
The first page says:
When the brake is not loaded, you should be able to hold the inner brake
plate and rotate the outer plate approx one inch. if you cannot, remove the
and dissamble to fix the binding.
This is where mine was fixed. 
I believe you might be able to lube the shaft around the circlip to free it.
If not you must remove it.
I did remove mine the first time to learn what is in there. 

To free the brake if not really binding, Jog the switch in power out mode.
If this doesn't work, check the brake.

Do not jerk the wire rope while free spooling out. A sudden increase in
line speed will cause the brake to actuate, even with  the clutch disengaged.
This is a safety factor in case of accidental clutch disengagement.

Hope this helps.

Bob Bernard
Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Nelly"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 14:46:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Lucas "things"

>> <<Benjamin Smith wrote:  Lucas also made some landing gear components
>> for the F/A-18.  After 100 or 200 mid-air emergencies, the US Gov't sued
> [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>> I didn't realise the US pilots flew around the skies with their landing
>> gear down!! :-)

When I last changed the oil (last sad story) I also changed the diesel
filter, and guess what....

YES, I have a "original" Lucas fuel filter on the LR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, I will also have the Lucas ghost in the fuel lines as well.

:-(

(well, maybe they do that right)
I have not found yet any Lucas ghost in my truck, just plain SPOTs.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 16:53:59 EDT
Subject:  Going swimming with the rover...

There is also a holder for that plug right up next to the drain
see you there
Steve F
69 SIIA 88

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 00:01:03 -0700
Subject: BKP Grill Badge

To all those who ordered the "Bloody Knuckles Pub" grill badge.......to keep
you posted.............

I should have artwork done by next week, with a JPEG that I will send to the
list (sorry, I do not have a web site to post to). If you do not like it -
no problem, you will not have to order one!

I currently have over 80 (yikes) orders for the badge.

So far, it says "Bloody Knuckles Pub" - top half of circle.
"Land Rover Owners" - bottom half
Crown on top, mounting tab on the bottom.
and............well, we are working on the interior graphic - but are
favouring a series type of graphic (sorry all you modern owners). We are
making mock-ups this week.

The badge is 1/4" thick, of traditional design and construction. It is only
being offered to this list and a few of my friends - no one else. If you go
to the Washington ABFM site, you will see the 'type' of badge - I am getting
the same company to make them. As I said, this will be a numbered, one time
run - I am not really interested in doing this again. I am not doing this
for profit - you will be billed what it cost me. It looks like it will be
$30US, including the shipping to anywhere in America. Overseas folks, you
will just pay the extra bit for shipping, accordingly. I intend to have them
all done and at your doorstep by Christmas. Prepayment will be required.

The badges will be done in Canada and shipped out as soon as I get them.

Thank You for all the interest - an overwhelming response!

If you have any questions or comments, please contact me off list
wahooadv@earthlink.net

Cheers
David
Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home, ketch rigged
wahooadv@earthlink.net

end of message

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:48:32 -0400
Subject: Re: BKP Grill Badge

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:

> To all those who ordered the "Bloody Knuckles Pub" grill badge.......to keep
> you posted.............
> I should have artwork done by next week, with a JPEG that I will send to the
> list (sorry, I do not have a web site to post to). If you do not like it -
> no problem, you will not have to order one!
> Cheers
> David
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> wahooadv@earthlink.net
> end of message

You can e-mail it to me and I can post it to a web page.....a lot
of times the listserver will remove images from postings.

Cheers - Mike

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From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 17:14:21 -0500
Subject: Wiring a CB radio

My CB radio worked fine until the factory harness burst into smoke and and
melted to nothing.  Quick action with a battery disconnect and the resident
fire extinguisher prevented any further damage.

OK it was my fault,  I wired the power to the back of the ammeter which I am
told means up to 35 amps flows through the wire.

So for the reinstall of a similar harness I am planning the following:

take the wire which says 'permenant power' direct to the battery.

take the wire that says 'to switched power' to an appropriate terminal in
the fuse box.

Both of these power leads have fuses by the way.

Does this sound OK?

Also, if the ammeter can generate sufficient power to melt wires then
wouldn't a connection direct to the battery cause the same results?  Or is
that such a stupid question that a person with my lack of electrical insight
has no business dealing with any wire other than an wire coat hanger?

David Hope
64llA

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:31:30 -0300
Subject: Re: ARB Lockers for Forward Control

Dr. Gary.A.Bauer wrote:
> The "funny" Salisbury diff referred to, is that what I would know as the
> ENV type axle.   If this is not so, does anyone know whether there are
> lockers available for the ENV diffs and axles - these are also commonly on
> the Forward control, are heavy and durable! - am considering putting these
> onto a SWB 88"!

The ENV and the Salisbury are not the same thing. I haven't heard of a
locker for the ENV but as with all things Land Rover just because no one
ever heard of it doesn't mean it didn't happen.
   John and Muddy

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:27:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

The tradional cheap bastard fix for leaky gas tanks is to patch with permatex.
The secret weapon which makes the fix work is the sheet metal screw included
in the center of the repair.  

The method which has worked best for me (cheap, read broke, bastard) is as
follows,    
1.  Locate the leak or leaky area.  probe with a  ice pick or similar sharp
point.  
2.  Locating a soft point within the area of leak or seep, penetrate or
scratch a mark.
3.  Estimate the size of the hole and put the largest sheet metal screw
available in the hole after liberally coating the screw head body and all with
permatex, I use #2 I think.
4.  Screw the fastener into the tank as well as you can.
5   Repeat the process until all soft areas are coated.  

Rust in gas tanks is associated with water inside or out.  My problems have
mostly been with rust from the inside out.  The appearance of rust in an area
of the bottom of the tank means that some of the bottom areas of the tank are
getting weak.

I've had good luck with this method even with gas in the tank which is why it
works so well for us cheap guys no expensive materials, no special tricks.

Zack Arbios

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From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:01:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

Hey Art,
  I'd be real tempted to check out the POR-15 "AUTO FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT"
sounds like just the item your looking for, since you mentioned "slosh it
around and let cure" It sounded as if you were prepared to R&R the tank to
do the job. You could probably do the job in a weekend. But then again it's
not the cheapest solution at $50.
 Good luck
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT.

Art Bitterman wrote:

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:02:09 EDT
Subject: CB giving smoke signals

Dave, good questions! But you need to know the smoking wire wasn't caused by
hooking to the ammeter. You let the smoke out when the other end of that wire
made contact with ground. Y'see, amperage in a circuit is related to the
resistance, in inverse proportions. The CB might draw a coupla amps when in
use, 'cause of it's resistance, but amps don't go where they're not invited.
When a wire touches ground; no resistance means max amps, sparks and smoke!
The big question is this; is your truck still positive ground? You'll need to
switch it to neg before installing a CB, unless you have a really old CB with
switchable ground, like I do. Even so, its better to switch the charging
system over.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:05:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaky Gas tank

Art Bitterman wrote:
> Hi All
> "Aardvark" has sprung a leak. I have a steady drip from somewhere in the
> gas tank. What I'm thinking off is too mix up some fiberglass resin and
> slosh it around and let cure. Need to do the fix on the cheap and quick
> as she is a daily driver.
> Question is--is fibre glass resin gas proof?

 I have used fiberglass on a gas tank before. Worked until I dented it
in the same place.

Jim Hall

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:46:35 -0700
Subject: Series II heater hose substitute

Just an FYI for now or later when you need to replace the rotten cloth
hoses that go from the shin burner Smiths heater to the windscreen
defrosters. NAPA carries a perfect fit, albeit, rubber and wire hose.
NAPA part no. 813-1508, description is Hose 6ft. Turns out the 6 feet
is just the right amount, just measure (layout) twice and cut. Worked
perfect. Don't know enough about the other series to comment on
suitability. I *know* it won't fit Disco Series II, ha, ha.

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: masmith <masmith@bconnex.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 00:26:31 -0400
Subject: 109 soft top for sale

hi everyone ,i have a soft top with hoop set for sale it will fit a 109 2
door ,its sand in colour also has roll up sides with windows.it is brand
new still in the box.im asking $1000.00 for everything this is a complete
kit.if interested please email me at masmith@bconnex.net or call me at
705-424-1953 thanks

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 01:52:06 EDT
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 04:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re: 109 soft top for sale

In a message dated 98-10-06 00:28:11 EDT, you write:

<< hi everyone ,i have a soft top with hoop set for sale it will fit a 109 2
 door ,its sand in colour also has roll up sides with windows.it is brand
 new still in the box.im asking $1000.00 for everything this is a complete >>

...you're not in much of a hurry to sell it, are you?

Latest LROI, page 48, Paddocks advertisement, lower L.H. corner:

Canvas hood, 109 full, FROM GBP 133.36 / Side windows are extra GBP 17.63.
This equals to about $270.00.

No hoodsticks in this ad, but last time they advertised them, they were about
the same price. Shipping is about $150 - $200, and thus I'd still come out a
good $200 - 250 better, if I ordered them from England - and I'd know for sure
that they are in fact new, as they'd still be in a factory sealed box.

You have to remember: if people here are rich enough to afford a computer,
then they can also afford to order parts from the cheapest sources possible.
Remember: a good deal is good, but a great deal is better - even BP doesn't
sell them for that much!

Not bashing, but simply explaining facts of life.

Charles

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:11:57 +0200
Subject: Re: Welding Galvanized

Peter Hope wrote:
> I do find it strange with todays "sue em all" atitude in the USA that parts
> distributers do not have any sort of disclaimer in the catalogs with the
> galvinized parts they carry.  They mention what the DIY needs to weld on
> these parts but that is all.

Isn't this maybe because the galvanised parts are electro-galvanised and
not hot-dipped? Electro-galvanising is not poisonous (the zinc doesn't
come off) and most BBQ grids are electro-galvanised. As far as I know
the electro process is surface conversion rather than surface adhesion.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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