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From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 08:36:34 -0400
Subject: 109 heater model name
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I recently bought a 1967 6 cyl 109 5 dr.(RHD) that I plan to restore =
once I finish my current SWB project.
The heater in the 109 is a rectangular,shallow box covering most if not =
all of the bulkhead in the center
section.Little vertical flaps on the sides are supposed direct the heat =
and the motor projects out
of the center of the box.I suppose it's an updated version of the radial =
smiths heater but does anyone know what it's reffered to as?  (besides =
inadequate..)
Regards,
Steve

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 10:26:25 -0300
Subject: Re: 109 heater model name

Steve Stoneham wrote:
> I recently bought a 1967 6 cyl 109 5 dr.(RHD) that I plan to restore =
> once I finish my current SWB project.
> The heater in the 109 is a rectangular,shallow box covering most if not =
> all of the bulkhead in the center
> section.Little vertical flaps on the sides are supposed direct the heat =
> and the motor projects out
> of the center of the box.I suppose it's an updated version of the radial =
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Regards,
> Steve
Usually referred to as " the flat Smiths heater" which describes its
appearance and its performance.
    John and Muddy

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:06:33 +0200
Subject: S1 80' questions

Hi all,

I am in the process of acquiring an 1949-1951?? S1 80 LR. I intend to try
and  restore it to as near original as possible. However I have no idea what
that should be exactly.

A brief history of the vehicle (as I have pieced it together) is that this
vehicle spent some time in eastern South Africa (Barberton) where it was
eventually relegated to the obligatory chicken coop. It was rescued from
there and shipped to Natal (Eshowe) SA and spent some time there. The last
owner was an archaelogist who had it for about 10 years.

The vehicle is left-hand drive - odd for SA as our vehicles are RH drive.
Also the LR has been resprayed etc and all the ID plates are no longer
available. I was told that it is a '49 model, but the grille looks like the
changes made after May 1950, and it also has parklights on the fenders. I
was also told that there was some stamp on the vehicle that indicated that
it was manufactured at the plant before Solihull was established.

Can anyone give me some ideas on how to establish the exact age, what is
original for these LRs, etc etc.

Thanks

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
' 49-51? SI 80 (soon)

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 20:07:31 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 heater model name

>I recently bought a 1967 6 cyl 109 5 dr.(RHD) that I plan to restore =
>once I finish my current SWB project.
Didn't anyone tell you that once you buy a 109" all 88"s become "parts
trucks"??
>The heater in the 109 is a rectangular,shallow box covering most if not =
>all of the bulkhead in the center
Smith's "box type"  You see them in Lightweights a good bit.
For a 109 wagon, depending on where you are located, you should start
snooping around for a "kodiak" style heater or some smaller 2d heater for
the rear.
good luck

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: "WILLIAM GARRISON" <JLGARRISON@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 11:02:32 -0700
Subject: 'index lro-digest'
	charset="iso-8859-1"

'index lro-digest'

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From: "Rob Dennis" <robd@unitedparking.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 14:20:05 -0400
Subject: RE: GeoCoords for Penlan Farm

Let me guess, you live on Lawrence Cove outside Kilmarnock :)

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:48:42 EDT
Subject: Re-Lumenition

 What purpose does the wire from the Lumenition unit have? 

Erik

The Lumenition should have two sets of wires, one set connects to the sensor
in the distributor via its own connector block. The other consists of three
wires;
red power in, 
black ground, 
brown trigger wire to the coil. 
The coil should then have its own power feed from the ignition, the power to
the Lumenition unit is often taken from this.
You should get a spark by holding the HT lead from the coil close to ground
whilst cranking the engine.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
+ Rolling RR chassis (awaiting the right body)

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:48:51 EDT
Subject: Re-Lumenition

 What purpose does the wire from the Lumenition unit have? 

Erik

The Lumenition should have two sets of wires, one set connects to the sensor
in the distributor via its own connector block. The other consists of three
wires;
red power in, 
black ground, 
brown trigger wire to the coil. 
The coil should then have its own power feed from the ignition, the power to
the Lumenition unit is often taken from this.
You should get a spark by holding the HT lead from the coil close to ground
whilst cranking the engine.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
+ Rolling RR chassis (awaiting the right body)

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From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 14:29:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering Damper on late SIIA?

At 05:21 PM 10/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>  Stupidly, I've forgotten how the steering damper and associated brackets

  Never mind. Figured it out. Quite stupid really, the track rod was upside
down and one of the damper brackets was reversed. Duh...

Jeff G.
Boston, MA

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:47:47 -0600
Subject: SII Transfer Box.

I seem to recall a similar SII Transfer and gearbox being
put in Russ Wilson's Red Pig.  Russ will trade it for a case
of beer, which by the way is less than the beer he had
around when we installed the box.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

Thats my Story and I'm Sticking with it

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From: Keith Elliott <landy@ican.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 15:34:47 -0400
Subject: Wise Owl

Hi Everyone...

    I was just wondering if I could get a response off the list from people who 
have had dealings with Wise Owl in Vancouver? I have been thinking of dealing 
with them for some parts but so far it seems like selling parts and making new 
customers are the furthest thing from their minds.

Thanks
Keith

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:59:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Wise Owl

Hi Keith this is Ray Wood at Wise Owl.

If you have been sending us messages they are not getting through.

try giving us a call a 1 888 880 2600.

----------
> From: Keith Elliott <landy@ican.net>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Wise Owl
> Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 12:34 PM
> Hi Everyone...
>     I was just wondering if I could get a response off the list from

people who have had dealings with Wise Owl in Vancouver? I have been
thinking of dealing with them for some parts but so far it seems like
selling parts and making new customers are the furthest thing from their
minds.

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From: "Tom Rowe/CDR" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 15:22:00 +0100
Subject: socket sizes (again)

I can't figure out if this made it through, so I'll try again. Sorry
if it's deja-vu.

Well, here I am in Atlanta, GA. My L/R is here too, finally, after a
detour to Omaha, NE on the moving van. It was there that misfortune
befell it. The moving company took it off the van (parking it in a
fenced enclosure) to put on another load. Someone(s), during that
time, took the opportunity to nick stuff we had in the L/R. My wife's
custom made guitar, my HighLift jack and about $8,000 worth of tools
and L/R spares.

So now I have the very annoying and time consuming task of going
through the tool catalog to get totals of the goods stolen. I never
thought about how hard it is to remember exactly what's in my tool
boxes. I'm sure I'll forget something. :-(

Anyway, to make a short story long, I'm asking for the sizes on a
couple of L/R  fittings so I know which size sockets I need to get 
SIII Starter dog
SIII hub bearing retaining nut

Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 17:31:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Wise Owl

Keith Elliott wrote:
> Hi Everyone...
>     I was just wondering if I could get a response off the list from people 
who have had dealings with Wise Owl in Vancouver? I have been thinking of 
dealing 

with them for some parts but so far it seems like selling parts and making new 
customers are the furthest thing from their minds.
I have bought a few things from them and found them to be very helpful.
  John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 18:07:47 EDT
Subject: Re: socket sizes (again)

In a message dated 10/3/98 4:03:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, trowe@ibm.net
writes:

<< Anyway, to make a short story long, I'm asking for the sizes on a
 couple of L/R  fittings so I know which size sockets I need to get 
 SIII Starter dog
 SIII hub bearing retaining nut
  >>

Starter dog:  1 11/16  (I use the Craftsman socket)
SIII hub bearing nut (the big pair?): 2 1/16 (But I have a IIa--don't know if
it's different in a SIII)

Nate

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From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 18:17:49 -0400
Subject: Re: S1 80' questions

>Hi all,
>I am in the process of acquiring an 1949-1951?? S1 80 LR. I intend to try
>and  restore it to as near original as possible. However I have no idea what
>that should be exactly.
>The vehicle is left-hand drive - odd for SA as our vehicles are RH drive.
>Also the LR has been resprayed etc and all the ID plates are no longer

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Thanks
>Riaan Botes

Riaan,

Did you look for the chassis number on the left chassis motor mount?  It's
stamped on top of the part of the motor mount welded to the frame, if the
frame is really dirty it may take you a minute to find it. Also the engine
number should be on the block right in front of the front edge of the
exhaust manifold.  You can also try this site for more info.

http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/

Look in the 'Faq 3.2' section

Jim Fraser
'53 80'

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 01:44:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Wise Owl

I have known Ray Wood of now Wise Owl (previously Octopus Parts) for many
years, almost a decade, meeting him finally after doing mail order from
Alberta. I have found him to be helpful and honest - he has also given me
some of the greatest deals I ever paid for on used parts. I have continued
to deal with him over all these years, while living in Washington now. He is
one of a few Land Rover Parts suppliers that I heartily recommend in North
America.

Like the time that I got a early IIA breakfast, with grill, badge, lights
and trim rings for...............well, I better not say - let's just say
that the shipping was more. Ray has also flagged me off from spending money
with him when I was making an 'incorrect' parts request - gees, Ray I
thought that I would want those springs........thank you - I will be up soon
enough to take a look at the new ones for my LR.

I still get and source Ray for some parts, but I rarely need anything. Maybe
Ray is a bit busy with the up and coming Northwest Challenge.........or
maybe you have just been tire kicking and he has failed to take notice of
you.

I suggest that he is one of three people to have on your side in the LR
business in BC - the stories of his ability to help other LR owners are well
known, often loaning space for someone to install a part right there,
amongst other 'gifts'. He has both used and new parts as well as some of the
rarer parts.

This is all just my opinion.........who are the other two guys? Ask me off
list.
Oh, and it was $25 Canadian for the breakfast! - Sorry Ray, it's out.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home, ketch rigged
wahooadv@earthlink.net

end of message

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From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 20:20:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Quick spare tire help needed!

I'm trying to mount my spare tire to my hood on my Series IIA.  I've never
done it before, and can't figure out which way the metal latches go to
secure it.  I'm assuming the tire goes outside face towards the hood?  I'm
trying to mount it before I head out early tomorrow, so any help is
appreciated!  :-)

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy, Bangor Maine USA
President, Downeast Land Rover Club, http://www.agate.net/~rovah/

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 20:59:21 +0400
Subject: Re: Quick spare tire help needed!

that's how mine is installed. plus the Y shaped strap holding firmly to the
hood.

John Cassidy wrote:

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 09:17:45 +1000
Subject: electrical work on 110

David Bothe 
    David> The switch has 6 positions: H.S.T.  S.T.  T. OFF
    David> CONV. S.CONV
Headlight, something, tail
   something, tail
      tail
Off
Convoy
Convoy,    something
Where something is for whatever we call "parking lights"
in the US (the front markers).  I don't know what word
that is that starts with "S", but that's what it means.
-MM

S= Sidelights = Parking lights

Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 09:14:52 +1000
Subject: Series Lubrication

Peter Kaskan wrote:

BTW, I don't wear my 'nice work overalls' when topping up 90wt - I have
more disposable clothes for that.  After rigging up a nice little pump and
long hose, and a years practice, 90wt still manages to get everywhere.

I agree!  the smell of 90 wt EP oil NEVER washes out of clothes.  I've had
to throw away one of my favourite jackets which  from the oil.  And there
was only a little spilt on it.

Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 09:11:57 +1000
Subject: Badges and Foriegn objects in Electronics

Art,
Frank wrote:
>I just love the idea of a guy who can fix the electronics on one of the
mosts ophisticated "vehicles" of its time driving around in a Ser11...
I think that says so much about the charm of a Land Rover...

then he wrote:

>Probably the reason that owning a Vehicle powered by Lucas
>Electric's doesn't scare me!!!

I tell you that the idea of flying in a plane powerd by Lucas sure as hell
frightens me!

Ron

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 18:32:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Quick spare tire help needed!

Tire sits outside-down.  Unless you are running >>really<< narrow tires,
you will have the long leg of the cam pointed down (the RN catalog shows it
up in an exploded view of the assy).  If your tires are wider than the
original 7.00 X 15 (or 7.50 X 16 or whatever) you might have to work each
cam progressively to get the wheel secured.  Oh yeah, and you want each cam
positioned radially, along the diamater, not angled to either side.

Hope that helps.  Should be rather obvious once you start to put it together. 

Todd 
'71 IIA 88 "Fantod"

At 08:20 PM 10/3/98 -0400, you wrote:

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 18:28:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Quick spare tire help needed!

At 08:20 PM 10/3/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm trying to mount my spare tire to my hood on my Series IIA.  I've never
>done it before, and can't figure out which way the metal latches go to
>secure it.  I'm assuming the tire goes outside face towards the hood?  I'm
>trying to mount it before I head out early tomorrow, so any help is
>appreciated!  :-)

 Hi John,

 Yes, the tire mounts with the outside face down.  The hardware
 is so weird though, it doesn't seem to have any logical way to
 secure the tire.  I always use a 2x block to screw the dogleg
 of the crescent down and clamp the rim.  Works for me!

 Good luck,

-Michael

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 09:08:34 +1000
Subject: New face

LArry Smith wrote:
>most of the trucks sported a brown stripe down the left (US) side
> of the truck

I always thought you Americans were confused.  Since when did the Americans
start having a left (US) side.  Does this mean that you have a right
(British) side - or right (French) side if from New Orleans, or right
(Irish) side if from NYC etc ?

Ron

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 19:37:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Wise Owl

At 03:34 PM 03/10/98 -0400, Keith Elliott, wrote

>    I was just wondering if I could get a response off the list from people
who have had dealings with Wise Owl in Vancouver?

I've had several dealings with Wise Owl and I give them a thumbs up for
approachabilility, knowledge and promptness.  I deal mainly with Paul Safari
in Queenston because he's a friend but Wise Owl would be my first choice
otherwise.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 03:41:47 +0200
Subject: Driving in the US

By the time this gets on the list, I'll be on my way to Alaska - and
this time I'm hiring a car - a Mitsubishi Clone SUV or something.

This will be the first time I have driven in the US - does anyone over
there have any words of advice for a European (other than keep on the
right!) :-)

I have unsubscribed - so if you want to reply use channel6@alaska.net -
I'll be there for the next 2 months.

Cheers! 

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 18:47:22 -0700
Subject: RE: bolt/stud extractor tips

The several times that I have used one of the reverse spiral
extractors, metal in metal and well stuck, they have worked fine. I
got mine at a Harbor Freight store I think. Make sure that you use the
largest extractor reasonable. If you go to large, the extractor may
just bend the thin metal left. If you go to small, the extractor will
probably be to weak and you will be more likely to break the
extractor.

YMMV,

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: "Tom Rowe/CDR" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 21:45:46 +0100
Subject: socket sizes

Well, here I am in Atlanta, GA. My L/R is here too, finally, after a
detour to Omaha, NE on the moving van. It was there that misfortune
befell it. The moving company took it off the van (parking it in a
fenced enclosure) to put on another load. Someone(s), during that
time, took the opportunity to nick stuff we had in the L/R. My wife's
custom made guitar, my HighLift jack and about $8,000 worth of tools
and L/R spares.

So now I have the very annoying and time consuming task of going
through the tool catalog to get totals of the goods stolen. I never
thought about how hard it is to remember exactly what's in my tool
boxes. I'm sure I'll forget something. :-(

Anyway, to make a short story long, I'm asking for the sizes on a
couple of L/R  fittings so I know which size sockets I need to get 
SIII Starter dog
SIII hub bearing retaining nut

Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 22:38:47 +0100
Subject: Going swimming with the rover...

Okay... I'm going to this off-roading thing, and they said to bring
a wading plug, and someone told me that I could get something
that capped off a 1/4" pipe and that would do it, but I would like
to find where I actually cap off the breather before I go bugging
the guys at the hardware store for a part that I really don't even
know what it's supposed to look like for sure...  Where is this
thing?

Also,. I got stuck in 4wd cause the screw that is the fulcrum
of the lever that the yellow knob actuates fell off... I replaced it
and now carry around a few extras, but I noticed that after
about only a few hundred miles the knob was loose again,
so I tightned the screw back. does anyone have any idea how
to keep that screw in? I can't really tighten it down 100% cause 
the lever has to move... this kinda makes a lock washer obsolete
doesn't it? Any ideas?

later...

-Scott

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From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 21:28:05 -0700
Subject: RE: bolt/stud extractor tips

The action of the reverse spiral bolt/stud extractor is to wedge it's way
further into the bolt as it tightens.  This works well as long as the
bolt itself is of sufficient strength to resist the wedging action, which
the bolts in question probably aren't. Grade 8 or above bolts work well
with reverse spiral as long as you drill less than half the diameter of
the bolt. Which makes the stud extractor in use pitifully small. And
IMHO, all the square type extractors I've used are prone to snapping off.
And they have been snap-on, or greenlee, or other high quality types. My
personal rule of thumb has been "don't even think about it on anything
smaller than 1/2" bolts."

I have access to a knee mill, so I've had good luck doing the following:
Locate the part in question as accurately as possible.Center drill a hole
in the broken stud. Drill through with a small (1/8") drill. Follow this
"pilot" hole with a drill the root diameter of the threads. This will
leave you with what looks like a "spring" still in the threaded hole,
which you can pick out with a scribe.  Then chase out the threads with a
tap. If you don't have a tap, you can clean out the threads with an old
bolt, just clamp it in a vise and cut a slot in the threads with a three
cornered file. Use lots of WD-40. This is a bloody touchy thing to do,
but the results are well worth it. Any good machine shop should be
willing to do this for a couple of bucks.

Whatever you choose to do, remember to use LOTS of penetrating oil. Oil
is cheap, hubs aren't.

Good luck!!!!! 

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:30:53 -1000
Subject: Repairing Galvinized Parts

Aloha,
what's the best way to weld up parts that have been galvenized?  I use a MIG
welder mostly, but am concerned about getting a good clean weld on
Galvenized parts.  Is hitting the to-be-welded area with a wire wheel
mounted on an angle grinder sufficiant?  Or is there some wort of chemical
pretreatment that need to be done first?  Also, is welding galvenized metal
a health risk?
TIA
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:54:01 -1000
Subject: Re: Going swimming with the rover...

Is it possible to put a longer bolt throught?  Then get a Nylock  (self
locking) nut and put it on the back side
Pete

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 21:42:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving in the US

At 03:41 AM 04/10/98 +0200, Adrian Redmond, wrote

>This will be the first time I have driven in the US - does anyone over
>there have any words of advice for a European

Good to hear from you chum.  

As for advice -- on gravel roads try to keep your eyes in front, drive ahead
of the car,  so you can roll up the windows in lots of time and keep well
right otherwise you will be enveloped with dust and you run the risk of
gravel pits in the windshield.

If  a rock chip holes the gastank, well chewed chewing gum will plug the
leak long enough to get to somewhere.

Add half a cup of methyl hydrate alcohol or the priceier anti gas tank
freezing compound stuff sold at gas stations (it's the same stuff as methyl
hydrate but packaged more expensively) with each tank fill when the temp
drops below ) 0 celsius.

Cars in the north are equipped with block heater cords.  Plug in overnight
when the temp is likely to go below -10 degrees celsius.  Don't bother to
plug in unless you are leaving the vehicle for more than 6 hours or so.
That being said, if you run into -40 weather there is no shame in leaving
your car to run continunously if you haven't a plug in or you think it won't
start even with a plug in

In Alaska, or anywhere in the north, the rule is that people WILL stop and
help you.  It's an offence against nature not to do so.

Got a problem? -- talk to people and they will help.  British reserve is an
anathema to them.  

Admit your ignorance and people will help.  Pretend you know what you are
doing when you don't and they'll happily let you drive yourself into hell.

In Alaska, be ready for sudden and violent turns of weather.  At this time
of year NEVER go on a drive that will take you more than walking distance
from the nearest warmth unless you have adequate boots, glove, parka etc.
If you are driving longer distances always bring a sleeping bag, a means of
making fire, and a few basic supplies.

Carry water.  Arctic conditions mean lack of drinking water.

Never, but never, stay in the car if you are stuck off the road and have to
wait more than a few minutes.  Heat gets sucked out of a car so quickly that
you will freeze once you run out of gas and the heater stops.  

And keeping the heater going is a dicey proposition from the start because
snow can build up around the exhaust pipe and before you know it you are
poisoned by fumes.  Don't think that you will be able to smell exhaust
gases, in most cases you can't and the carbon monoxide will overtake you.

Build a fire, there's no shortage of trash under the trees that makes good
tinder.  If you have to sleep out then build a lean-to or sleep in a snow
trench in your sleeping bag supported on cut tree branches.  Don't put your
sleeping bag on top of the snow.  

Do not ever think of sleeping in the car.  You will be much warmer, and more
likely to be alive in the morning, if you sleep in either a snow shelter
(the best) or a lean-to.

Keep dry.  If you get wet in the arctic you are in big trouble.

Carry high energy snack foods such as granola if you wish but otherwise
don't worry about survival rations.  If you are on or near a traveled road
you will be rescued within a day or two at the most and your only concern
should be water, not food.

A important rule is to always let someone know where you are going and when
you expect to be back.  

If you are going on a long driving trip, and fuel stops are far apart, a
good rule is to never let your tank get below one-quarter.  Carry extra fuel
to make sure you can maintain this limit.

Take very chance you can to talk to other drivers, in particular truck
drivers, about road conditions ahead.  No British reserve.

This is a bad time of year in the arctic.  The weather systems are changing
unpredictably.  You must be ready for everything from Indian summer, to
drenching rain, to blizzards.

Think ahead, be prepared, let people know where you are.

None of this applies if you are just thrashing around Juneau or Fairbanks,
Just find a coffee bar and email us if the weather turns poor.

The weather is so variable at this time of year that the weather forecasters
have a hard time.  If you are getting mixed messages off the TV weather
channel, or the local radio, and you can't make up your mind about what's
happening when you want to head out then call the local Bush Airline and ask
what their pilots have been reporting.  It will always be more up to date
and accurate than any forecast.

A long time ago, 20 years ago, I was a bush pilot in the Canadian Arctic so
I know about survival techniques but when it comes to weather no one in the
world is better at reading chaotic weather conditions than an Alaska Bush
pilot.  It they say don't go, then don't and buy a bunch of beer instead.

                                                                        Best
of luck Adrian, keep us informed

                                                        

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 00:26:18 -0400
Subject: Re: 109 heater model
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks for the replies regarding the flat smiths heater in my '67 5 dr.
I'm not going to worry about upgrading the heater but I appreciate the =
thought.
It's never been winter driven,having spent a good deal of time in the =
middle east,and I don't plan to start now!
Regards,
Steve Stoneham
'67 RHD 5 dr.
'61 SWB  (hopefully back on the road this month!)

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From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 00:44:27 -0400
Subject: fender mounted indicators/running lights
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Does anyone know for sure if the "pods" installed for indicator/running =
lights on my 67 109 are factory options or were they possibly installed =
when converted to dormobile/carawagon? The original holes for the lights =
have been blanked out and dual jerry can mounts(one per side) sit width =
wise in rectangular boxes on the bumper.
The camper style roof was reportedly replaced with a trop top some years =
before I purchased the truck but the aluminum framed screens on the rear =
side windows are still there.
Anyone?
Regards,
Steve Stoneham
'67 RHD 5dr.
'61' SWB (hopefully back on the road this month!)

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 22:39:35 -0600
Subject: Adrian's trip (resend)

At 03:41 AM 04/10/98 +0200, Adrian Redmond, wrote

>This will be the first time I have driven in the US - does anyone over
>there have any words of advice for a European

Good to hear from you chum.  

As for advice -- on gravel roads try to keep your eyes in front, drive ahead
of the car,  so you can roll up the windows in lots of time and keep well
right otherwise you will be enveloped with dust and you run the risk of
gravel pits in the windshield.

If  a rock chip holes the gastank, well chewed chewing gum will plug the
leak long enough to get to somewhere.

Add half a cup of methyl hydrate alcohol or the priceier anti gas tank
freezing compound stuff sold at gas stations (it's the same stuff as methyl
hydrate but packaged more expensively) with each tank fill when the temp
drops below ) 0 celsius.

Cars in the north are equipped with block heater cords.  Plug in overnight
when the temp is likely to go below -10 degrees celsius.  Don't bother to
plug in unless you are leaving the vehicle for more than 6 hours or so.
That being said, if you run into -40 weather there is no shame in leaving
your car to run continunously if you haven't a plug in or you think it won't
start even with a plug in

In Alaska, or anywhere in the north, the rule is that people WILL stop and
help you.  It's an offence against nature not to do so.

Got a problem? -- talk to people and they will help.  British reserve is an
anathema to them.  

Admit your ignorance and people will help.  Pretend you know what you are
doing when you don't and they'll happily let you drive yourself into hell.

In Alaska, be ready for sudden and violent turns of weather.  At this time
of year NEVER go on a drive that will take you more than walking distance
from the nearest warmth unless you have adequate boots, glove, parka etc.
If you are driving longer distances always bring a sleeping bag, a means of
making fire, and a few basic supplies.

Carry water.  Arctic conditions mean lack of drinking water.

Never, but never, stay in the car if you are stuck off the road and have to
wait more than a few minutes.  Heat gets sucked out of a car so quickly that
you will freeze once you run out of gas and the heater stops.  

And keeping the heater going is a dicey proposition from the start because
snow can build up around the exhaust pipe and before you know it you are
poisoned by fumes.  Don't think that you will be able to smell exhaust
gases, in most cases you can't and the carbon monoxide will overtake you.

Build a fire, there's no shortage of trash under the trees that makes good
tinder.  If you have to sleep out then build a lean-to or sleep in a snow
trench in your sleeping bag supported on cut tree branches.  Don't put your
sleeping bag on top of the snow.  

Do not ever think of sleeping in the car.  You will be much warmer, and more
likely to be alive in the morning, if you sleep in either a snow shelter
(the best) or a lean-to.

Keep dry.  If you get wet in the arctic you are in big trouble.

Carry high energy snack foods such as granola if you wish but otherwise
don't worry about survival rations.  If you are on or near a traveled road
you will be rescued within a day or two at the most and your only concern
should be water, not food.

A important rule is to always let someone know where you are going and when
you expect to be back.  

If you are going on a long driving trip, and fuel stops are far apart, a
good rule is to never let your tank get below one-quarter.  Carry extra fuel
to make sure you can maintain this limit.

Take very chance you can to talk to other drivers, in particular truck
drivers, about road conditions ahead.  No British reserve.

This is a bad time of year in the arctic.  The weather systems are changing
unpredictably.  You must be ready for everything from Indian summer, to
drenching rain, to blizzards.

Think ahead, be prepared, let people know where you are.

None of this applies if you are just thrashing around Juneau or Fairbanks,
Just find a coffee bar and email us if the weather turns poor.

The weather is so variable at this time of year that the weather forecasters
have a hard time.  If you are getting mixed messages off the TV weather
channel, or the local radio, and you can't make up your mind about what's
happening when you want to head out then call the local Bush Airline and ask
what their pilots have been reporting.  It will always be more up to date
and accurate than any forecast.

A long time ago, 20 years ago, I was a bush pilot in the Canadian Arctic so
I know about survival techniques but when it comes to weather no one in the
world is better at reading chaotic weather conditions than an Alaska Bush
pilot.  It they say don't go, then don't and buy a bunch of beer instead.

                                                                        Best
of luck Adrian, keep us informed

                                                        

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 19:20:20
Subject: Re: fender mounted indicators/running lights

	I don't think they were factory options but may have been Dormobile
options.  I've seen several pictures of the pre '69 rovers with this
modification for extending the range for serious trekking.
Aloha Peter
At 12:44 AM 10/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone know for sure if the "pods" installed for indicator/running =
>lights on my 67 109 are factory options or were they possibly installed =
>when converted to dormobile/carawagon? The original holes for the lights =
>have been blanked out and dual jerry can mounts(one per side) sit width =
>wise in rectangular boxes on the bumper.
>Steve Stoneham

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 19:25:01
Subject: Re: Quick spare tire help needed!

	You didn't say whether you had an 88 or the 109.  The lugs for the 15"
wheel are longer than those for the 16".  If someone has converted yours
from 15" to 16" wheels, the lugs will not cinch down on the wheel.  You can
either put a block of wood or something to fill in the difference or order
replacements or try and find used.
Aloha Peter

At 06:28 PM 10/3/98 -0700, you wrote:
>At 08:20 PM 10/3/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>I'm trying to mount my spare tire to my hood on my Series IIA.  I've never
>>done it before, and can't figure out which way the metal latches go to
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>>trying to mount it before I head out early tomorrow, so any help is
>>appreciated!  :-)
> Hi John,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Good luck,
>-Michael

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From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 23:31:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Wise Owl

----------
> From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Wise Owl
> Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 6:37 PM
> At 03:34 PM 03/10/98 -0400, Keith Elliott, wrote
> >    I was just wondering if I could get a response off the list from

people
> who have had dealings with Wise Owl in Vancouver?
> I've had several dealings with Wise Owl and I give them a thumbs up for
> approachabilility, knowledge and promptness.  I deal mainly with Paul
> Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 6:37 PM
Safari

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