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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 12 Sep 1998 14:36:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Gearbox whine

William,

I checked my papers that came with the car and there I could see that the
"reconditioned" gearbox costed 190£. The same workshop also, at the same
time, rebuilt the transferbox to "high ratio". I have asked the PO for date
and place for this rebuild and I get back when I know more about the
workshop responsible. To me it sounds like the whining originates somewhere
in the front of the gearbox. That together with the fact that it is very
high in fourth gear, noticable in third gear and non existing in second or
first gear made me think it might be the mainshaft front bearing. I also
have a feeling that the sound increases at warm weather. 
Thank you very much for your answers, not only to my questions but for all
questions in the list. I have had good use for your advice on more than one
occasion.

Peter

Peter Thoren, PhD
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 12:32:39
Subject: 6th MID-ATLANTIC RALLY

HEAR YE, HEAR YE THE MID-ATLANTIC RALLEY FOR THIS YEAR HAS EXTENDED THE
TIME FOR PREREGISTRATION ( ONLY WAY TO GO) TO SEPT.15TH. THIS IS DUE TO MY
SCREW-UP IN NOT GETTING THIS INFO.ON THE WEB PAGE IN A TIMELY MANNER. I
STILL DO NOT HAVE A LIST OF ACTIVITIES TO POST EITHER TO THIS LIST OR THE
WEB PAGE, BUT IT'S SURELY GOING TO BE A BLAST. SO, COME ON AND GET
REGISTRATED!!!!

NANCY <LR88@aol.com>

SANDY <rover@pinn.net>

OCT 2-4 AT PENLAM FARM ( from Mostly Metro list) thanks Spenny 8^).

Jim Wolf

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From: "Bryn Hackland" <bryn@hackland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 17:43:52 +0100
Subject: Brake bleed nipples

Anyone got a method for removing corroded in and rounded bleed nipples that 
just refuse to budge.

Can't even seem to get a drill int the space to drill it out.

Help!

Bryn Hackland

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From: Tom Gross <tgross@esri.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 09:50:36 -0700
Subject: RE: welding axle shafts

Luis,

This may not be true for Land Rover halfshafts, but others that I've had
to deal with are hardened steel.  If you weld your broken shaft, you
will be raising the temperature of the surrounding steel to the point
where it is annealed.  I'd suspect that the shaft would soon break again
near where the weld was made.  You could have the shaft welded with
hardening welding rod, and then re-harden the shaft, and then draw the
temper to the proper hardness.  The trouble is that if the shafts were
originally hardened steel, you will have to find out if they are air
hardening, water hardening, oil hardening, or brine hardening steel.
Then you'd have to find out the proper temperature for tempering the
hardened shaft.  I suspect that somewhere between a dark bronze and
blue, but it's been awhile since I've gone through the process.

Tom Gross

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 13:25:17 EDT
Subject: RE: welding axle shafts/hardening method

In a message dated 9/12/98 12:50:54 PM, you wrote:

<<Then you'd have to find out the proper temperature for tempering the
hardened shaft.  I suspect that somewhere between a dark bronze and
blue, but it's been awhile since I've gone through the process.>>

Here's an unscientific-but-works-in-the-bush method I've used to determine the
hardness of a part:

Get 4-5 metal flat files.
Have them tempered to various rockwell numbers (hardnesses) in a range around
what you think the part to be...
Take a small area and start with the "softest" file and see if it scratches
the hardened part...
Work up through the files until you get to the one that scratches the hardened
part...
Either use its Rockwell number (hardness scale) or one just below it...
Weld the part (here it helps to have a super-competent welder)
Magnaflux to check the integrity. (optional)
Temper the part...
Say a small prayer, offer an appropriate sacrifice...
Install
Repeat prayer & offering, then use the part...

Now, I wouldn't go through any of this if a part was available for sale
somewhere in the world.

I had to do it on an airplane's landing gear, *and* get the part signed off by
the FAA, but I had no alternative as it was one of three surviving of its
type, and parts were really unobtanium. 

--pat.
(incidentally, it was a Helio AU-24A Stallion, s/n#001, ex-AirAmerica, and was
our corporate "jet" in bush country.)

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 13:40:56 EDT
Subject: RN Server Down?

Can anyone else get in to the RN website, specifically their BB?

Maybe my request to access their webpage only makes it as far as DC before
becoming smothered by "The Starr Report"...

--pat.

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 07:56:34
Subject: Re: RN Server Down?

	I have been having a lot of Web Site not working messages from RN 
lately,
also.  It seems to come back up and work normally for a while and then
disappear, often in the middle of checking out a response.  Thought it was
my computer but maybe not.
	Could be my key board is sticky after reading the Star Report.
Aloha Peter

At 01:40 PM 9/12/98 EDT, you wrote:

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From: "Robert McCullough" <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 14:44:49 -0400
Subject: luis manuel g- half shaft blues
	charset="iso-8859-1"

try ABP Trading. i'm in the u.s.a., and they sourced an exhaust manifold =
for a 6 cyl., 2b forward control for me which i recieved in 2 days via =
u.p.s., and their prices are very reasonable. their address is: =
apb@dircon.co.uk and their web site can be found at: www.apb-trading.com

------=_NextPart_000_003F_01BDDE5B.E4A2B2E0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 28 lines.]	

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 15:27:09 -0400
Subject: Re: RN Server Down?

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> Can anyone else get in to the RN website, specifically their BB?
> Maybe my request to access their webpage only makes it as far as DC before
> becoming smothered by "The Starr Report"...
>Pat; 

Working from up north here with no problem....
> Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 16:25:01 EDT
Subject: RN Server Down? Ahh, the reason...

Well, it *was* the Starr Report, in a way, that prevented me from accessing
the RN website. Here's why:

The *Coiler* Bulletin Board was choked up by yups debating the clinton thing,
impeachment, cigars and other nonsense. It is one thing to be off-topic on a
list, which doesn't shut down & you can ignore messages, but to tie up a whole
server is not fair to non-political types. Didn't they have some polishing to
do on their vehicles?

And all I wanted to do was ask *what kind of wax to use on "Beluga Black"
paint for best shine*! Ack, arghhh, choke, belch...   ;-)  

Some who post on that particular board really do not deserve the vehicle that
they have been temporarily awarded control of.

--pat.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 22:41:29 +0200
Subject: Re: Brake bleed nipples

Bryn Hackland wrote:
Anyone got a method for removing corroded in and rounded bleed nipples
that just refuse to budge.

I know that this is a smart-arse reply - but the best bet is to screw
them in with copper grease, then they will budge.

Though failing the ability to wind the clock back and fix it this way
:-)
I'd try heat.

The problem is often caused by using the wrong spanner/wrench to bleed
these b'gg'rs - there is a tool for the job - avalable in #10,
11,12,13,14 metric sixes - fits the brake line glands as well - for the
nipples, a good ring spanner, or even a good small socket can help. The
problem with small socket sets, is that they tend to be cheap, and on
the small sizes will often warp or crack when force is applied.

If the hex is totally junked, then a pair of gas pliers or a stilson
wrench may do the job - but this is the last resort before drilling out.

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 17:21:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Brake bleed nipples

On Sat, 12 Sep 1998, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> The problem is often caused by using the wrong spanner/wrench to bleed
> these b'gg'rs - there is a tool for the job - avalable in #10,
> 11,12,13,14 metric sixes - fits the brake line glands as well - for the

Of course, the proper spanner isn't metric. It is 7/16 AF or on some
aftermarket nipples 3/8 AF.  And don't over torque the things!  The
correct torque is only 7 ft/lbs +/- a couple.  You can do this with two
fingers on your off hand.  

David

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 18:48:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Unobtainium stores

<< One crucial bit is now 'obtainium'.  Robert Davis had a half dozen 
of
fittings that replace the starting dog on the crankshaft pulley made up 
at
a machine shop.  These work only with the Fairey-style capstans, not 
the
AeroParts ones.  If you have the drive shaft and other winch parts, but 
not
the receiver (which commonly gets left on the donor vehicle) Robert may 
be
able to help you.  Cheers >>

 Are these parts no longer available from Superwinch, who took over 
from Fairey?
 
 They were very helpful with info etc on the Fairey CG winch fitted to 
my ex-H.M. Coastguard SIII.
 

 Paul

 Sat, 12 Sep 1998 00:36

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 18:48:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Virtual pubs (As in Virtually no LR)

 or even "The Birmabright Banger"
 
 Paul

 Sat, 12 Sep 1998 00:30

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 18:56:57 EDT
Subject: Re: RN Server Down? Ahh, the reason...

I don't buy it

Zack

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 19:23:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake bleed nipples

In a message dated 12/09/98 17:46:50 BST, you write:

 Anyone got a method for removing corroded in and rounded bleed nipples that
just refuse to budge. >>
Did it last month...
remove the brake cylinder, with nipple attached. Put it in the vice and use
molegrips, after a good soaking with loads of WD40/Duck Oil/your choice.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 19:32:49 EDT
Subject: Re: welding axle shafts

In a message dated 98-09-12 12:50:54 EDT, you write:

<<   If you weld your broken shaft, you
 will be raising the temperature of the surrounding steel to the point
 where it is annealed.  I'd suspect that the shaft would soon break again
 near where the weld was made.   >>

    I've built racecar off-set rear axles from Toyota rears.  What I was doing
was shortening one side and lenthening the other so the drive-shaft would run
along-side the driver rather than under the driver.  I would chop saw 8 inches
off the right side and add that length to the left side, then just weld those
suckers up.  I never had a failure at the weld, but would get some horrible
breaks that ran length-wise along and about 1/2 way around the axle.  I always
attributed this to the welding making the steel harder in some parts than
others, so it would break under torsional loads rather than bend.
    We rarely had more than one break per season, and my drivers really liked
to use those kerbs to catch air.  I say just weld it if you can't buy it.  If
it breaks again, you're right back to where you are right now, except you've
learned something.  NEVER be afraid to experiment.  The more you fail, the
more likely you are to succeed.

Enzo
     

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 19:48:41 EDT
Subject: Re: RN Server Down? Ahh, the reason...

In a message dated 9/12/98 6:57:52 PM, you wrote:

<<I don't buy it

Zack>>

You're right. It was a frustrated jab, provoked by impatience.

The real reason has more to do with my location (Miami Beach) than anything
else. We are at a disadvantage in terms of telecommunications here due to the
fact that we (Miami, So. FL, etc.) are at the "end-of-the-line" as opposed to
a city like Atlanta that has cross-wise lines and options for traffic to flow.
I can only imagine how bad it would be in the Keys. At times of high data
traffic, the South Florida cities can really slow down and line availability
becomes very hit or miss, jou just have to keep jumping in and seeing what you
get; doesn't matter who your ISP is, BTW. It affects everybody , including
those who just got DirectPC satellite modems, because they are "satellite-
down/telephone-up" and need a line. I spent the better part of last week
exploring options and lines with virtually every type of provider from cable
modems to T1 to ASDL, etc., and the concensus is that geography plays a big
part in our "access to access". Oh well. Things should be better at 2am, the
west coast will be slowing down and not all of europe will be at work yet.

--pat.

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 19:54:32 EDT
Subject: Re: RN Server Down? Ahh, the reason...

Yeah! More better.
Zack

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 23:41:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Graphite

Meant to tell you all - I did the graphite in the springs thing, with the
rover jacked up so the leaves were spread.  AMAZING!!  Absolutely amazing!!
No more nasty crunchiness!!  Much smoother to drive - the car dosent BANG!
over bumps anymore!!

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:03:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Graphite

Tell us more! I haven't heard of this before, but makes sense if grease is
a no-no for turning into grinding slurry...
What did you use for graphite?  All I have ever seen is the stuff you
squirt into your lock mechanism.

Todd

At 11:41 PM 9/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Meant to tell you all - I did the graphite in the springs thing, with the
>rover jacked up so the leaves were spread.  AMAZING!!  Absolutely amazing!!
>No more nasty crunchiness!!  Much smoother to drive - the car dosent BANG!
>over bumps anymore!!

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 01:24:16 -0400
Subject: over-zealous digester....

Yes, it is true, the digest versions were getting over digested, the
fault was related to not realizing the end of attachments, that has
been fixed.

Also, the digests going back to August 14th have been re-done, and should
be availble via the usual means - either retrieval via Majordomo or for
browsing starting from today.html

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net
	 http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
				  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD		  D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3	Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2	    because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1	Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

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From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 08:48:25 +0100
Subject: RE:Re: Doors

My passenger side door of my 90 has some play in the hinges and I was about to 
take the advice of lowering the securing catch on the rear bulkhead.

I was wondering what is the easiest way ie change the hinge pins vs changing 
the 
hinges themselves.

Also the rear bottom corner of the door sitts slightly outward of the body.  Is 
this a problem of adjustment or has the door frame warped.

Any thoughts 
Thanks

Geoffrey
Malta

Chris Stevens:

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From: jeffmo@globalnet.co.uk
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 10:17:42
Subject: to buy or not to buy SIII update

after some careful thought and deliberation I decided to buy the series III
as it was (the guy selling threw in a garage full of bits gearboxes,
transfer boxes, spare engine etc.,), all for what appeared to be a very
reasonable price.  He also 'persuaded' me to take a 1953 Series I off his
hands as a long term restoration project, one again with a considerable
amount of bits (well someone else was going to take this largely original
old lady and throw in a V8 engine).

Therefore I now have three major problems to deal with,

1)	The SIII keeps jumping out of 2nd, I can live with this but will i be
doing further damage if i do not get it sorted ASAP.

2)	The 2 1/4 diesel smokes like a fog machine when it is first started from
cold, it is fine when it is running and when starting once the engine is
warm.  How can this be cured/minimised, does anyone know if the fuel
additives that can be bought would help.

3)	What is the best source of information on how to go about restoring a
Series I, such as parts and the possible sources for major components in
the UK (the original engine was swapped for a diesel in the 1960's)

These things should come with a Government health warning!

I think I'm an addict.

Jeff 

Lada Niva
78 Series III
53 Series I (in bits)    

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