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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 07:51:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Whose rover did I see?

In a message dated 9/8/98 3:15:25 AM, you wrote:

it
- BLAH!!!>>

Oh, I forgot to put one of those on your dream list...

-not!

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From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 07:53:28 -0400
Subject: Sealing the roof

In yesterdays down poor, here in FL I noticed that water was leaking in from
the roof. After further investigation, it seems to be coming in from around
the point where the aluminum roof is riveted to the galvanized edging. Does
anybody have any experience with sealing this?

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From: "Stephen C. West-Fisher" <westfish@gte.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 07:58:15 -0400
Subject: Re: For some reason only some messages seem to get through, trying 
this one

Mike Rooth wrote:
> >Also, as this is a British car, why on earth is the indicator stick on the
> >&*^&* right?! Very odd, in the UK I thought only Japanese cars were like
> >that!
> Its an *old* British car.When that was built,the Japanese werent invented.
> Its perfectly logical.Your left hand,as you point out,is fully occupied with
> that funny gearstick thingy(And you've got two more down there somewhere
> as well).So your *right* hand can play with the indicator stalk.Steering?

Mine has the indicator properly located on the dash.

Steve
westfish@gte.net

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From: lro@playground.sun.com
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 98 11:27:28 -0500
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels 

> My question is what is causing this and how should I best deal with this
> problem?
I have had the same problem, the solution was to get a lower idle rpm. 500 rpm
will do the job and never diesels again.

> Should I experiment with either higher octane?
I've used 98, but it is no solution. My LR was dieseling backwards on 98!

> Should I advance timing until "pinking" occurs and then retard a bit?
Don't think so.

> Should I (ga$p, choke) pull the head and decoke?
A temperay solution.

> Should I further refine my tappet adjustment skills (in all fairness, it
> just gets easier)?
Nope.

> Should I just set the transmission brake and let out the clutch when I turn
> off the ignition?
Or hit the brakes.

Joost

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 8:40:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Portland Show - LONG

1960 101? This is a new one on me.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Ian Stuart <kiz@holyrood.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:25:35 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Sealing the roof

On Tue, 8 Sep 1998, Mark Sullivan wrote:

> In yesterdays down poor, here in FL I noticed that water was leaking in from
> the roof. After further investigation, it seems to be coming in from around
> the point where the aluminum roof is riveted to the galvanized edging. Does
> anybody have any experience with sealing this?

Exterior silicon-sealer.

use a wire brush to get all the old kak out and then squirt sealer in.
once the sealer is in, use a finger to smooth the sealer down (and into
the cracks)

     ----** Ian Stuart

Land Rover : A British car that was meant to survive the charge of an
  adult bull rhino and be field-stripped in the jungle with essentially
  a screw-driver and a crescent wrench.

               WWW: http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

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From: Bill <billy@q-net.net.au>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 21:43:56 +0800
Subject: Re: Broken gear lever on a Range Rover

My wife has just called me to say that the gear stick on our 1980 Rangie
has broken off and come out in her hand ................ sounds serious
but could just be metal fatigue what would like to know is this a major
job or can it be done easily from inside the vehicle without removing
seats, floor etc. or is it just a case of removing the rubber boot and
the old part of the shaft and fitting a new lever ...... thanks in
advance for any help, I need all I can get.

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From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:54:58 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: Broken gear lever on a Range Rover

Easy:  Lift the rubber boot and you will see how it is bolted down. 3
minute job.

Piet

> but could just be metal fatigue what would like to know is this a major
> job or can it be done easily from inside the vehicle without removing
> seats, floor etc. or is it just a case of removing the rubber boot and
> the old part of the shaft and fitting a new lever ...... thanks in
> advance for any help, I need all I can get.

P.A.H. Fourie   ( pah@saao.ac.za )
South African Astronomical Observatory.
P.O. Box 25 Sutherland 6920 South Africa.
Tel 023 5711135. Fax 023 5711413

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From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 09:57:14 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I agree with Dale Smith  re: the oval office scandal.
He wrote:
>...look at it from another point of view. What would your boss think of
you doing >kinky things with a 20 yr old "employee" in your office, when
you were supposed >to be on the clock instead? ...

  If anyone else had done this on the job (except quality control
inspectors at "The Mustang Ranch") we would've been fired immediately.

Just my humble opinion.

Regards,
Ray Burton

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 10:15:03 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Sealing the roof

In a message dated 9/8/98 9:31:13 AM, Ian wrote:

<<use a wire brush to get all the old kak out and then squirt sealer in.
once the sealer is in, use a finger to smooth the sealer down (and into
the cracks)>>

Try a wet finger or a large ice cube, it won't want to stick to you as much,
and for inside corners, the ice cube trick does leave a nice curved fillet
(phil-it, not like a slice of fish-phil-a)

--pat.

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:15:19 +0000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

 What would your boss think of
you doing >kinky things with a 20 yr old "employee" in your office, when
>you were supposed >to be on the clock instead? ...
Probably moan like hell because he didnt get there first....
>  If anyone else had done this on the job (except quality control
>inspectors at "The Mustang Ranch") we would've been fired immediately.

No.Only if you were found out:-)

Mike Rooth

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From: Devin Anderson <devin.anderson@haledorr.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 10:15:48 -0400
Subject: Preparing for winter

I have never been able to get heat out of the heating unit in my '72 109
station wagon (6 cyl. petrol).  I understand that it is possible for the
entire system to be "air locked," and , I suppose, the valve that
ultimately regulates fluid intake into the system should be checked to
verify that it is actually opening (it is pretty rusty and does not
open/close with the greates of ease).  Any advice on the best process by
which to trouble-shoot this problem?  I would hate to remove the heater
completely only to find there was another, simpler solution.

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thraser@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:18:20 +0100
Subject: Re: For some reason only some messages seem to get through, trying 
this one

On the Dash?

SIII '78 2.25 Petrol LWB Canvas - BNH 449S Salisbury Diff. Zenith Carb
Ford Explorer 4.0i '98 NIB 4318 - Comfortable and Powerful!

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 10:22:29 EDT
Subject: How to finish water tank insides?

I have built a small wooden box to carry water in the rear of my LR for a
local project.

I made it out of plywood and lined the inside with fiberglass to prevent
leaks, etc.

Do I leave it bare (resin layer) or do I paint it with something before I use
it?

I need water on a long term photo location/camp which is isolated, to wet
someone, and to be able to drink from as well. Hence, I'm not sure if a cured-
resin tank is ok or if it has to be painted with something?

--pat.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 10:21:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Preparing for winter

Checking the heater:

In the car, simple enough...

Remove the hoses feeding the heater core and stick a garden hose up one of
them with the flow on. Point the other down at the ground or into a bucket
and see what comes out...

If the valve is locked closed you won't see much of anything, ditto if it's
clogged.

In any case, this will give the core a good flushing, and the half-liter of
water in the thing won't hurt the car when you plug it back in.

                    ajr

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 07:41:26 -0700
Subject: Re: How to finish water tank insides?

Did you use the conventional resin used with fiberglass or did you use
epoxy?  Epoxy (at least some of 'em) are considered food safe.  I would not
consume use water stored in a regular fiberglass tank.  Relatively easy to
coat the fiberglass with the epoxy... 

At 10:22 AM 9/8/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I have built a small wooden box to carry water in the rear of my LR for a
>local project.
>I made it out of plywood and lined the inside with fiberglass to prevent
>leaks, etc.
>Do I leave it bare (resin layer) or do I paint it with something before I use
>it?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>I need water on a long term photo location/camp which is isolated, to wet
>someone, and to be able to drink from as well. Hence, I'm not sure if a
cured-

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 10:57:42 -0400
Subject: To retread or not to retread

trowe@ibm.net wrote:
>I need to get some new tires for my 88. I could get my 20 year old Michelin
>XC4's retreaded, or buy new. The advantage of retreading is that Bandag has
>(or had) a tread that very nearly matched the XC4 and I have a spare that
>never saw the raod. But retreads are about $70US and I'm not sure it's
worth >it on tires that old.

It depends on how good the old carcasses are.  I had some tires retreaded
by Bandag years ago and ran with 'em for 90,000 miles...still had plenty of
tread left but the sidewalls were UV-degraded by then.  If they show any
cracking or deterioration, it's better to go with the new ones.  The only
negative thing I have to saw about the Bandags is that in very cold
weather, these things were *square* in the morning 'til they got warmed
up....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 10:57:44 -0400
Subject: Inlet gaskets

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

>What kind of joining compound can be used to remount the exhaust manifold?
>Is RTV ok?  Use the same stuff on inlet joint washers or leave them plain?

Don't use anything on the exhaust manifold.  There are two options, the IIa
style "all-in-one" gasket (don't over-tighten it ot it'll fail PDQ) or the
Series III style metal gasket thingies that only get fitted to the inlets.
Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Philip and Aimee Houser <pahouser@fidnet.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 06:43:13 -0500
Subject: Re: I'll take...

**snip**
>Then I'd like a diesel 101 camper
>(with about a 150 gallon capacity - how the hell much would this weigh!!  ;  )

**snip**

I think a factor of 7lbs to a gallon for diesel fuel is correct... thus 150
gallons = 1050lbs.  It has been a few years since such information was an
essential part of my day-to-day life, but I think it's right.

		Philip, the LR-less
		'72 Mercedes 280SE 4.5 (108)
		'85 Chevy Suburban
		'68 Chevy C-10

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From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 98 10:06:45 -0500
Subject: tires, again

It seems to be really hard to find 7.50x16 tires (or a LT equal) in load range 
C. The BFG that 
people like comes in that size. Also the Avons (but the nearest dealer to me is 
Chicago). Does 
anyone know of other makes that do? I guess I'd like to get something that's 
decent on the 
highway, but not totally worthless in the snow and light off-roading (I have 
some other good 
serious off-road tires that are no good on the highway).

So, my desire is
750x16, LT235/85R16 or LT265/75R16
load range C
tread for mostly highway driving and light off-roading
tubeless is ok

Anyone know of a mail-order Avon dealer?
Thanks.

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI (soon to be Atlanta, GA)
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive lets you get stuck in
       places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:22:22 -0400
Subject: Sealing the roof...silicone?

Eternal hell-fire and damnation to the evil soul who unleashed this foul 
pestilence unto the world. RTV, silicone sealant, silicone 
lubricant...straight from Beelzabub himself!
NO WAY, NO HOW does this junk belong anywhere near mechanical equipment 
for any purpose of creating a seal, be it on a coachroof, or a water 
pump.
I warn you now, any who would use this material on anything you hold 
dear...once you apply it , that's it. Forget trying to remove it. The 
stuff gets down into the very pores of the metal and never comes out 
completely. It's ugly, difficult to apply, sticks to every damn thing, or 
worse, appears to stick and then fails in two years leaving a complete 
mess that you can't get rid of. It's use implies pure bodge and I would 
personally never buy a car, boat or bike that a PO has gummed up with 
this nastiest of goo.
Seal that leaking coachroof with anything but silicone. Paint, roofing 
tar, even epoxy are superior. If you want to do it properly, pull off the 
coachroof, chisel off all the rivets, regalvanize the rim, and reattach 
with a bead of Sikaflex or Thiokol sealant and new rivets.
There. I feel better now.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:25:47 -0400
Subject: Re: tires, again

I'd advise to strike the BFG All-Terrains from your list of possibles. 
I've had a set for three years and my opinion of them sinks every time I 
go off-road, along with the truck. Next time, it'll be either NDT 
military or Cooper high traction bias ply.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 09:14:11 -0500
Subject: the 90 I was about to buy...

People:

Well, I'm back. I catched a virus 6 days ago and it had me in bed for this
long. BUT, even though my temperature was very much above average during
saturday and I was feeling like hell, I went to talk with the 90 owner.
He gave me a good explanation about the roof and windscreen not beeing
90-normal. Before, it was a soft-top 90, but the canvas went bad and he
wanted a hard top. Buying a complete new roof from the dealer was extremely
too expensive, so he decided to adapt a series trop-roof to the 90. In order
to do so, he had to replace the winscreen to fit the roof, and so he did.
Smart guy, like almost all POs.
Once I was convinced with the story, I took the next logical step: I bought
the oily thing!!!
I already love it. I now need to think about a name for it, other than the
obvious one ("Mutant").

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Davis, Robert" <RDavis@USGEN.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:39:02 -0400 
Subject: RE: Fire... or lack thereof

	>>>I'm wondering what happened to the other half and will be pulling
the pan as soon as I get it
	running.<<<
You might want to pull the pan before you get it running.
	>>>I put on my old distributor aligned same as the new and got
sparking but with fire both out
the exhaust and carb.<<<
You have the firing order wrong!  Its 1342.
	>>>Is it possible that the
	timing chain might have jumped a tooth or more if the cam got jammed
with
	the busted ring?<<<
	Anything is possible, but I think this very unlikely.
	>>>Just to complicate things there is no timing mark on the
pulley.<<<
	It is always a good idea to set a timing mark on the pulley before
you install the engine, but all is not lost.  If you have not put the tunnel
cover/floorboards back you can establish timing marks on the pulley by
referencing those on the 2.25 flywheel.
	>>>Steve - sitting with mind blown<<<
	If you're stuck and can get it my place, I'll take a look at it for
you. 

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 08:31:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Sealing the roof...silicone?

 
--gee I guess GM will have t tear down all their new engines to rplace the 
factory silicone intake manifold seals with sikaflex?? Sounds to me like you 
don't 
understand what silicone is, what it's for, and definately don't know how to 
apply it correctly. NB> my Benz engined rover has had silicone seals in it for 
years without giving me any grief. when the time comes to rbuild, I will, of 
course, be using the correct procedure for removing the silicone ....

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 11:59 -0500
Subject: Undoing Rivets... (and silicone)

Well... My PO riveted some ammo boxes between the bench seats
and the front seats... kind of interesting... but he didn't think that
someone might want to undo the horrible gas tank and fill tube
that was retrofitted...  So I'm having a bit of trouble getting to all   
the
parts that I need to get to... how can I undo these things?

Speaking of silicone... the gas tank acessories (sender, draw
tube, etc...) were sealed with silicone... what the fuck was he
thinking? looking down in the tak, I can see huge chunks of
silicone just floating around...  That's like saying hey... I've got
this styrofoam cup and don't know what to do with it... I'll just
throw it in the gas tank...

And the PO also used this horrible expanding foam to seal the
hard top to the bottom... I won't worry about it now, though.
Whenever I repaint it, I'll also get a canvas half cab for summers
and worry about sealing the hard top in a more aesthetically
pleasing manner then...

thanks...

 -Scott  

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 17:06:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Sealing the roof...silicone?

Adams, Bill wrote:

> NO WAY, NO HOW does this junk belong anywhere near mechanical equipment
> for any purpose of creating a seal, be it on a coachroof, or a water
> pump.

What about bodged up door seals?

>  appears to stick and then fails in two years leaving a complete
> mess that you can't get rid of.

I  used some door seal rubbers from a scrapper which I cut and stuck to the
doors themselves over 8 years ago using clear silicone sealant. Its still
there and still keeps the rain out.Bodge it most definitely is but as a cost
effective seal for paupers who own Landys for other reasons than restoring
them to original it works a treat.

> It's use implies pure bodge and I would
> personally never buy a car, boat or bike that a PO has gummed up with
> this nastiest of goo.

The 109 is not for sale, too much blood and guts (mine!) in it.

> Seal that leaking coachroof with anything but silicone. Paint, roofing
> tar, even epoxy are superior. If you want to do it properly, pull off the
> coachroof, chisel off all the rivets, regalvanize the rim, and reattach
> with a bead of Sikaflex or Thiokol sealant and new rivets.

As I get older and the disposable income slowly increases I do like to do
things properly but at times bodges can not only save money but are sometimes
necessary to get you home and the Landys are the most forgiving motors to
bodgey owners.

> There. I feel better now.

Glad to hear it, Bill!

 Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:07:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Compression Questions

Oral,  I don't really know, don't know that anybody other than the two
involved knows.  The real problem is that he lied about it long and on TV to
the public on and on..., privately and again in court.

Zack Arbios

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 12:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Undoing Rivets... (and silicone)

Oh yeah... and speaking of roofing tar, he (The PO) used that to seal the   

access panels on the tops of the seat boxes. I don't think I'll ever get   
all of
that junk off...

 -Scott  

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:23:26 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch problems

The yellow lever is completely useless, remove it and throw it away. 
gear clash is the approved method of changing  gears, and is actually
beneficial to the lubricant.  Just don't change it (the lubricant).  Land
Rovers, like good cast iron frying pans like to retain lubricant.  As a matter
of fact, they will "spit out" any lubricant they don't like.

Zack Arbios

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 13:37:43 -0300
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels

Todd Schlemmer wrote:
> ok ok ok
> 8:1 head
> Compression very good and consistent
> LR spec says time to TDC (90 octane) or 3 deg ATDC (85 octane)
> I've replace all my Lucas fiddly bits...
> -new plugs (anal retentively gapped)
> -dwell 52 deg (points gapped <= .015 inch)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 63 lines)]
> off the ignition?
> My mechanical intuition says this is a bad thing.  Should I just quit 

You don't say what plugs you are using. try switching to a colder plug
ie  one with a shorter electrode.
    John and Muddy

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From: nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankhauser)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:04:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: The Tom Sheppard Expedition Book

I've been tempted to buy the old LR guide to expeditions, but never got
around to it. This one sounds like a better buy, but I can't find it. Where
have the folks who have read it found the book for sale?

-NickF
'61 88 IIa
'67 88 IIa

Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 09:46:26 -0700
Subject: Gear questions (3rd try)

This Is my third try to get a message to come up via the e-mail process. If 
anyone gets duplicates, my apologies. I'm looking for anyone who has info on 
gear 
set that are lower than the factory 4.7:1 sets found in early S1 Land Rovers. 
My current axles have ENV part numbers, and I understand that lower ratios were 
available for theses axles. I run a very modified driveline, and, ideally, 
would like a ratio between 5:1 and 6:1 for on road use. For full detaails of 
the 
modifications, please check my club home page: the URL is 
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1236  my truck is featured under the 
Author's Rig heading. For 
anyone with feedback regarding gearsets, my direct e-mail is 
risely@mailexcite.com.  Thanx in advance for any help.
   C.Risely
   DeWinton
   Alberta
   Canada

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 09:47:13 -0700
Subject: Gear questions (3rd try)

This Is my third try to get a message to come up via the e-mail process. If 
anyone gets duplicates, my apologies. I'm looking for anyone who has info on 
gear 
sets that are lower than the factory 4.7:1 sets found in early S1 Land Rovers. 
My current axles have ENV part numbers, and I understand that lower ratios were 
available for theses axles. I run a very modified driveline, and, ideally, 
would like a ratio between 5:1 and 6:1 for on road use. For full details of the 
modifications, please check my club home page: the URL is 
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1236  my truck is featured under the 
Author's Rig heading. For 
anyone with feedback regarding gearsets, my direct e-mail is 
risely@mailexcite.com.  Thanx in advance for any help.
   C.Risely
   DeWinton
   Alberta
   Canada

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 13:16:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

Very nice, statement on tappet adjustment.
A small caution for measuring gap is that common feeler gauges can bridge wear
points at the interface, giving a false reading (too large) which will give
much valve noise as a result.  Good visual inspection is needed, wear at this
point will commonly give unpredictable noises as sometimes the click is there,
sometimes not, as the valve hits the corect gap portion, and other occasions ,
the too large portion.

Zack Arbios

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 07:29:20
Subject: Re: How to finish water tank insides?

Aloha Spyder

	Polyester resin will leach flavoring into the water for a long time 
after
it is set up.  The flavoring won't kill you but is unpleasant.  Gel coat
will work fine as a barrier but is not air curable.  I don't know if there
is an air curable version of gel coat.  I would hesitate to use common
paint as it does not stick to the FRP surface unless the surface is
THOROUGHLY cleaned with acetone or better yet sanded and cleaned.  An epoxy
resin or two part epoxy paint would probably be your best bet as a sealant.
 For your information Polyester Resin is water permeable.  probably no big
deal for your application, but one reason to coat FRP with a water proof
barrier in a marine application 
You should coat the inside with an epoxy or something of that nature.  

Peter

>Do I leave it bare (resin layer) or do I paint it with something before I use
>it?

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:45:12 +0100
Subject: Lights?

Maybe I'm a bit niave (?), but I'm sure that my speedo should light up at
night? What's gone wrong? It's a 1978 Series III 109" BTW!

Neil

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 13:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Lights?

Blown bulb or bad ground, I'd suspect. Either that, or make sure you turn
on the switch that controls the panel lights!

                    ajr

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:49:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Compression Questions

>>>>> "Dale" == Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com> writes:

    Dale> 1. Politician having sex with 20 yr old "employee"

In the interests of accuracy

Monica was born 7/23/1973

It's been alleged that the affair began in "November of 1995".

That would make her 22+ at the time.

							-MM
(Pedant Extra-ordinaire)

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From: chris stevens <chrisste@clark.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 13:57:50 -0400
Subject: Idling Down

 Hi all,

There must be some wisdom on this list that can help me with this: My
2.25 petrol will be idling just fine, albeit a little high, and then,
for no visible reason, the RPMs drop and the thing falls down to a
barely runable idle. Carb problem? (Zenith 36 IV carb); Distributor?;
Timing chain? This is a persistent problem.

Anyone have an answer or guess?

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD
1969 Series IIa  88" SW

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From: Devin Anderson <devin.anderson@haledorr.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 13:57:38 -0400
Subject: Doors

On all Land Rover's I've ever owned ('62 IIA '88 and '72 III 109), a
perpetual problem has been getting doors to close properly.  My IIA had
rotting door posts which always made for difficult allignment, but my
Series III has solid hardware and still reqires various closing
techniques ie: the lift-and-slam, hold-open-lever-while-pushing-firmly,
and (my wife's favorite) the no-holes-barred-power-slam-while-swearing
(which makes me cringe).  

I've noticed that there are adjustment screws on the inside of the door
post (where the door latch inserts), and, of course, the bolts where the
hinge attaches to the bulkhead.  What is the best procedure???

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:10:21 -0400
Subject: Chris's Silly-cone sensitivity...

Chris hammers me by writing...
-gee I guess GM will have t tear down all their new engines to rplace the 
factory silicone intake manifold seals with sikaflex?? Sounds to me like 
you don't understand what silicone is, what it's for, and definately 
don't know how to apply it correctly.

Yup, I know what silicone is and how to use it, and no, Einstein, I 
wasn't implying that Sikaflex is applicable to engine components, 
although I wouldn't put it past GM to use it in THEIR engines. I stand by 
my assertion that silicone is cheap and cheesy (which is probably why GM 
uses it).
Wassamatta, you own Dow-Corning stock or what? 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:03:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Doors

Adjust the striker plate - it's the easiest way.

My personal favorite is to loosen the bolts holding the striker plate,
close the door, then tighten them into place. This way, it adjusts to how
thew door hangs naturally.

You might also think about checking the hinge pins for wear...S.III can
have the problem too, but don't have the nicety of replaceable pins.

               ajr

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:13:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Lights?

turned on the switch, but no light, where is the bulb then?

Neil

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:15:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: tires, again

At 10:06 AM 9/8/98 -0500, Tom Rowe wrote:
:So, my desire is
:750x16, LT235/85R16 or LT265/75R16
:load range C
:tread for mostly highway driving and light off-roading
:tubeless is ok

 Dunlop Radial Rover RV is a load range C tubeless
 tire available in LT235/85R16.

-Michael

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:14:53 EDT
Subject: Re:  the 90 I was about to buy...

In a message dated 9/8/98 11:27:13 AM, you wrote:

<<I already love it. I now need to think about a name for it, other than the
obvious one ("Mutant").>>

You could call it the green rover, maybe...

--pat.

BTW, what color/s is it?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:20:41 +0100
Subject: Re: Lights?

Alan,

Thanks, I'm a bit of a newbie, where is the bulb?

Neil

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:25:53 +0100
Subject: Lights....

List's eating replies again, anyway, Alan, I'm a newbie okay, can you give
me some hints on where to find said bulb?

Neil

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:23:47 EDT
Subject: Re:  Chris's Silly-cone sensitivity...

In a message dated 9/8/98 2:11:42 PM, you wrote:

<<Wassamatta, you own Dow-Corning stock or what?>>

Not since saline came on the market to replace silicone...

oh, wait a minute, wrong list, maybe.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:32:26 +0100
Subject: Fw: Lights....

->
>List's eating replies again, anyway, Alan, I'm a newbie okay, can you give
>me some hints on where to find said bulb?
>Neil

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 11:11:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Chris's Silly-cone sensitivity...

 
--
Sorry, I don't own stock. What I do own is a land Rover that leaks neither on 
my head, nor on the floor....   
By the way, you didn't address my comment that you don't know how to 
apply/use/or remove the stuff.

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 14:29:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Lights....

Newbies....humph. <grin>

OK, this is a Series III, right? Not personally familiar with 'em, but once
you pull back the gauge cluster (by dismounting the panel I believe), there
is a light bulb/socket inserted into the back of the speedometer. Odds are,
the bulb has gone South and needs to be replaced.

The bulb socket is a friction-fit into the back of the speedo case - just
pull/twist to get it to pop out.

                    ajr

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 20:57:35 +0200
Subject: Re: Lights?

My guess is that somewhere in that birdsnest which passes for a wiring
loom behind the speedo, a wire has fallen of the light switch (or the
interior light switch depending on how you panel lights are switched) so
that you are not getting + to the lights. It's unlikely (though not
impossible) that both lamps have blown at once.

Open the dash up, take a poke around - try and work our what else won't
work when you have repaired this....

Good luck!

Neil Brownlee wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Lights....

> List's eating replies again, anyway, Alan, I'm a newbie okay, can you   
give
> me some hints on where to find said bulb?

I ordered one from RN just to see what it was like, but you can just take
yours out and head to your local automotive store and find a replacement.

I actually didn't find one at the car store. I've been finding more   
things for
my rover in the local Marine store than the car stores... E&B Marine or
WestCoast marine... good places.

 -Scott  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 21:07:11 +0200
Subject: Re: Doors

This is probably one of the more delicate and patience demanding jobs on
a landy.  We can all change the enging, gearbox or axles, but getting
all three doors to close properly in the same week seems to escape us.

My method is this. Replace bolts and nuts holding door catch on -
remember a captive wasker on both sides. Replace but do not tighten
completely.

Check first that the door is hanging straight and the hinges actually
bring it to the correct closed position. check that the lock works and
is not damaged from all those years of slamming - if the lock bolt has
play in the "door open-close" direction - replace it - otherwise you
will never get this to work.

Get a friend or sturdy built SWMBO to lean on the door, to hold it
closed - flush to the tub and top.

Now position the latch so that it engages with the lock properly - not
that the lock bolt must engage into the latch and not nust into the
recess in the latch raiser. Tighten the bolts fixing the latch to the
doorframe.

Try to close the door - if the bolt enters the correct part of the
latch, but the door still rattles or protrudes outside the sideline of
the rest of the body, then adjust the latch inwards (into the car).

If the lock both will not engage properly without undue slamming -
adjust the latch outwards.

Be aware that the vertical position of the latch holes may be wrong - if
you have refitted the firewall or refitted the rear tub, there is no
guarantee that the tub isn't sitting "to high" for the latch to be able
to be dropped to match the lock position - in such cases, file the holes
in the doorpost out to allow the latch to mount lower.

This takes time - it's hard to get a bulls eye first time, and it may
not last for more than a week - buit it can be done!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:34:25 EDT
Subject: Music

For those who are more musically inclined, I found the following posting at
www.bibliofind.com under land rovers:

KERKORIAN, Gregory.:  Land Rover March; Lake State Publications, Score &
Parts.  For intermediate band.  Good condition.  Offered for sale by Da Capo
Music Bookshop at $AUD40.00

FWIW - I've used Bibliofind to order some used books in the past.  They are a
clearing house for various book handlers.  No other associations implied.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 22:28:39 -0700
Subject: 1960 101

No more emails, please

I know that a 1960 101 is impossible - it is what the registration
stated......and I missed it as I typed in haste.
:-)

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:57:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Silly-Kone & Roof

To support Bill, When I had my windscreen glass replaced, I asked if he was
sealing it with a silly-kone sort of stuff.  He replied "NO, No, No, the
stuff is messy, tough to remove and above all, CORROSIVE."  He told me to
use UV resistant (lemme see if I can remember?Hmmmm...) Urethane.  That is
what all the window places use.

I've got an extra hard top I want to swap on to my IIA88.  Since I've got
the connections for blasting hot dip galvanising in town, I've been
contemplating removing the gutters from the roof, blasting them and then
hd-galvanising them - finally using the urethane and a whole bunch of pop
rivets to put 'em back on.  Are the gutters all welded together?  I'll have
to check on the tank size.  What do you think - too much trouble?

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:48:42 EDT
Subject: RE Preparing for winter

Prepare for winter?  Take the top off of Tigger.  
:-)

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'73 Series III soft top "Tigger"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces)
'95 Disco "Great White"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 13:53:58 -0500
Subject: RE: the 90 I was about to buy...

you wrote:
><<I already love it. I now need to think about a name for it, other than
the
>obvious one ("Mutant").>>
>You could call it the green rover, maybe...
>--pat.
>BTW, what color/s is it?

Oh, you mean security in big numbers? Green Rover would sound great, but
it's blue. (Well, maybe the originality of the name could reside in the fact
that it ISN'T green!!)
:-]

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:32:42 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 08/09/98 15:04:18 BST, you write:

<< What would your boss think of
 you doing >kinky things with a 20 yr old "employee" in your office, when
 you were supposed >to be on the clock instead? . >>

Chance would be a fine thing.....

but I can dream can't I??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW & only
dreamin'
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:32:42 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 08/09/98 15:04:18 BST, you write:

<< What would your boss think of
 you doing >kinky things with a 20 yr old "employee" in your office, when
 you were supposed >to be on the clock instead? . >>

Chance would be a fine thing.....

but I can dream can't I??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW & only
dreamin'
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:32:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Preparing for winter

In a message dated 08/09/98 15:22:08 BST, you write:

<< retty rusty and does not
 open/close with the greates of ease).  Any advice on the best process by
 which to trouble-shoot this problem?  I would hate to remove the heater
 completely only to find there was another, simpler solution. >>

if it is airlocked one way is to open the heater fully (as possible) remove
the radiator plug (the one on the radiator, not the over thingy canister),
start the engine and look to see if the radiator level drops, top up before it
gets hot and starts to rise again.

Yours having many years ago driven to Swansea freezing my socks off, until
told to always open the heater before filling the radiator...

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Sealing the roof...silicone?

Look Bill, stop beating about the bush, what's your REAL opinion of silicone?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:33:03 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch problems

In a message dated 08/09/98 17:29:28 BST, you write:

<< they will "spit out" any lubricant they don't like. >>
so they don't like any then ??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:33:00 EDT
Subject: Re: tires, again

In a message dated 08/09/98 16:12:42 BST, you write:

<< anyone know of other makes that do? I guess I'd like to get something
that's decent on the 
 highway, but not totally worthless in the snow and light off-roading (I have
some other good  >>
couple of my friends here in the UK love Cooper Discoverer tyres. They're US
made are they not?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:50:44 EDT
Subject: Re: RE Preparing for winter

In a message dated 08/09/98 21:05:07 BST, you write:

<< Prepare for winter?  Take the top off of Tigger.   >>
Gerry,
what sort of temp you get in winter?
It's cold, windy and raining here in the UK (it's Summer - but we got the
arse-end of Hurricane Daniel currently)
I may move to AZ  (where that?)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:50:48 EDT
Subject: Re: the 90 I was about to buy...

In a message dated 08/09/98 21:07:37 BST, you write:

<<  but
 it's blue. >>

duh, Blue Rover????

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 17:26:49 EDT
Subject: RE RE Preparing for winter

<<what sort of temp you get in winter?
It's cold, windy and raining here in the UK (it's Summer - but we got the
arse-end of Hurricane Daniel currently)I may move to AZ  (where that?)>>

Arizona.  I've survived the summer where the highest temp was around 47.8
degrees C / 118 degree F and the highest temp experienced in Tigger was around
115/46.  I didn't take the temp in the footwells.  I suspect you could easily
add another 15 F to the total.  

I'm the first to admit that I'm sick of tired of the heat.  The summers are so
bad that I wouldn't dare drive with the top off (of Tigger).  But I may do
that this fall and into early winter.

Winters are actually quite nice.  The poor little heater takes the chill off
and the heat from the motor usually does the rest.  The lowest of the lows is
briefly around 0 C/ 32 F but the normal high is around 25 C/ 78 F.

I usually manage to piss off at least one person each winter by posting the
daily highs in Phoenix especially after those back east have suffered through
another record cold spell!

Later....
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'73 Series III soft top "Tigger"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces)
'95 Disco "Great White"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 98 16:48:58 -0500
Subject: Re: tires, again

Adams, Bill writes:

> I'd advise to strike the BFG All-Terrains from your list of possibles. 
  I've had a set for three years and my opinion of them sinks every time I 
  go off-road, along with the truck. Next time, it'll be either NDT 
> military or Cooper high traction bias ply.

The military NDT's are pretty worthless in anything slick, including rain. I'd 
advise against 
them on road. I didn't really like them off road either, I don't know why the 
DoD likes them. If 
you have a farm supply co-op nearby, see if you can get Traction Sure Grips 
(they are maked as 
the Co-op brand; I forget who makes them although I tracked it down once). They 
look very much 
like the Gumbo monster mudders, but are available in 700x15, 750x16 and 
900x16's. I have a set I 
used on my '62 88 woods-truck and they serverd well in the mountains of VA. 
Chains are 
*mandatory* with them if it's icy. These also are not recommended for on-road 
use as they don't 
have the proper type of tread.

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI (soon to be Atlanta, GA)
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive lets you get stuck in
       places even more inaccessible.

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:01:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Broken gear lever on a Range Rover

All I ever do is weld the lever back on.8)).

-- 
andy Smith
1965 S2a V8 swb 
1971 S2a 2.25P swb 
Tamworth Staffordshire.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:24:40 EDT
Subject: Looking for *DamonKC@...* From F.R.S.

Anyone from the Flatland Rover Society on the list? I'm looking for Damon, who
lives in KC/MO. He drives a D-90SW. (He's the guy who lost a front wheel, at
70mph on the freeway, going to tenessee, if that story sounds familiar...)

If someone knows who i'm on about, kindly pass along my e-mail address or send
me his so that we can re-establish communications.

Thanks, 

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:29:48 EDT
Subject: Thanks for the non-LR advice...

Thanks to all who replied to my water-tank query.

The information jived with my presumptions, and was much appreciated.

I knew there were a fleet of sailors in this group. As someone pointed out,
he's finding bits for the Landy at WestMarine... 

My battery cables and winch power cables came from a marine supply house,
"Double-Ought" Tinned copper with sealed & swaged terminals. I think I could
power a house through those cables, but the Captain who made them up said
there's nothing better available in an auto-parts-store.

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:34:01 EDT
Subject: Why ATF in LT77T?

Does anyone know the reason behind LR specifying ATF Type-F for the 5-Speed
that is in NAS 110s? It isn't an automatic, and it is a gearbox, so why
doesn't it have gearlube in it? 

It is something I've always wondered and still haven't deduced.

I ask because I changed the fluid today, and wondered what would happen if I
mistakenly put in gear-lube.

(I put in ATF, BTW; only 2.5 qts, thought it would take more...)

--pat.

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From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 15:48:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Why ATF in LT77T?

 
 Does anyone know the reason behind LR specifying ATF Type-F for the 5-Speed
 that is in NAS 110s? It isn't an automatic, and it is a gearbox, so why
 doesn't it have gearlube in it? 

 It is something I've always wondered and still haven't deduced.
 
 I ask because I changed the fluid today, and wondered what would happen if I
 mistakenly put in gear-lube.
 
 (I put in ATF, BTW; only 2.5 qts, thought it would take more...)
*************
   Because it's got a pump in it to circulate the oil under pressure rather than
relying on the spinning gears themselves to sling gear lube around. The LT95 on 
my
101 was an early incarnation that evolved into the LT77. It has a pump as well, 
but 
rather than ATF fluid, it specifies regular 10W-30 motor oil. 90wt gear oil 
would
I suspect, do rather nasty things to the pump and pump seals in cold weather.

Rgds
Mike 

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:51:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

Zaxcoinc@aol.com wrote:

> Very nice, statement on tappet adjustment.

Very true!

> A small caution for measuring gap is that common feeler gauges can bridge wear
> points at the interface, giving a false reading (too large) which will give
> much valve noise as a result.

My 2.25 petrol has been noisy for some years with varying degrees of noise 
despite
lots of attempts at adjustment.There is wear on some of the rocker arms but I
never thought it was too much, so it probably is.
I suppose I will have to replace the whole lot to cure it completely.

Mick Forster

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:07:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

Your machinist can grind, or weld then grind the surface. It is a normal part
of a proper re-build.  You might want to mark all the parts, if you take it
down to said machinist in one piece.  

Zack Arbios

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 19:35:34 -0400
Subject: Re: To retread or not to retread

I had some tires retreaded by Bandag years ago and ran with 'em for 90,000
miles...still had plenty of
>tread left  
Really!
The Michelin M+S that my 90 came with have done a little over 40,000km and
will have to be replaced before the end of the year. And I check the
pressures regularly, and rotate regularly. 5 worn tyres.
Allan
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute (CANARI)
Vieux Fort, St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel. + 758 454 6060  Fax. + 758 454 5188

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 20:13:29 -0400
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels

Todd Schlemmer wrote:

> A motorhead (but not roverized) friend of mine swears this is due to
> carbon
> in cylinders.  He said that judicious application of water drops to
> the
> carb intake can "steam clean" the carbon out.   Are there fuel
> additives
> formulated to solve this?

Dieseling doesn't always mean carbon in the cylinder.

A fine mist of water into the carb air intake while the engine is
running will clean the cylinders. I'd change the oil and filter
afterwards. Important: don't hydraulic lock the engine by pouring too
much water in. An engine with a blown head gasket will usually have very
clean cylinder(s).

> [Speaking of tappet adjust, how critical is the rotational position of
> the
> crank?  I pull all the plugs, so cranking is not a problem.  I tried
> the
> rule of 9, but it is easier to eyeball the open position and then
> rotate
> another 360 degrees.  Unless I am mistaken, the only consideration is
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> degree or
> three error either way...?]

You're correct that the important point is that the lifter not be
against the cam lobe. On a low overlap cam such as in a LR engine, there
should be plenty of room between the "ramps" on either side of the lobe.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 20:15:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Why ATF in LT77T?

At 18:34 08/09/98 -0400, Pat wrote:
>Does anyone know the reason behind LR specifying ATF Type-F for the 5-Speed
>that is in NAS 110s? It isn't an automatic, and it is a gearbox, so why
>doesn't it have gearlube in it? 

Same for the later R380 manual. Talking  some time ago about the crunchy
1st to 2nd change I have, Jim Allen suggested synthetic. Anyone know what
the appropriate synthetic substitute would be? 
Cheers
Allan
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute (CANARI)
Vieux Fort, St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel. + 758 454 6060  Fax. + 758 454 5188

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 20:23:00 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest/ Slick Willie

In a message dated 98-09-08 10:20:41 EDT, you write:

<< >  If anyone else had done this on the job (except quality control
 >inspectors at "The Mustang Ranch") we would've been fired immediately.
  >>
Of course in this case, Willie won a two week vacation in Martha's Vineyard
and was allowed to bomb the two countries of his choice!

Ed Bailey
S2a 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 20:29:57 EDT
Subject: The right to arm bears (NO LR Content)

Adrian,
I'm now back from a long weekend (took a pistol on the plane w/ me--in my
checked baggage:-)

You mention that the element of accountability and discipline makes the
possession of arms by police/military more palatable than their possession by
the general populace.

That same discipline and accountability instilled in militaries/police forces
worldwide has, time and again, been used to subjugate the very people those
forces are ostensibly protecting.

IMHO, the decentralized nature of an armed populace is not only not a minus,
but is a giant plus.

Without real physical power to protect or overthrow (as the conditions
warrant) their own government, the self-determinative power of the people is
only a paper tiger, to be easily yanked out from under them by whoever
monopolizes coercive power in the country.  Witness the Czechs attacking
Soviet armor with pitchforks in '56 (I think that's the right year).

If we trust the citizenry enough to hand them the tremendous power of the
ballot, we should trust them enough to hand them the relatively insignificant
power of a personal weapon.

The best way to ensure your safety is to ensure your safety, not rely upon
someone else to provide it.  Many police cars here in the States have the
motto "To protect and serve" on their doors, which has always irked me.  Their
role is not to protect, but to provide a limited amount of deterrence and to
"mop up" already completed attempted/successful criminal actions.  They're the
military police, not the infantry, to use a military illustration.

Nobody's ever established a causal relationship between an armed populace and
a high crime rate--anywhere.  Mexico--very few guns--over 200,000 murders w/
knives.  Switzerland--lots o' guns--almost no violent crime.  Great
Britain--few guns--higher violent crime rate now than before they had gun
control.

I believe a system which maximizes the responsibility/liberty (yup, in that
order) of each individual works best.  There should be TOUGH penalties for
those who abuse this freedom (i.e., use a firearm in a crime, do LOTS of
time), but to penalize the entire country because of the irresponsibility of a
few is not only illogical, but is counter-productive, for you make the law-
abiding people into perfect targets for those who abuse their libertys and pay
no heed to regulations in the first place.  Nowhere in the 'States has a more
strict gun control law led to a drop in crime, while programs encouraging the
citizens to be trained and armed have had dramatic impacts on the crime rates
everywhere they've been implemented.

Well, that's a lot of non-Rover stuff to have said.  

Bill Rice
Columbus GA

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 21:45:51 EDT
Subject: "Silly" Question

Hi,

 I have a question. It has to do with rock sliders and how they are mounted.
Can someone who has a set (SG, etc.) e-mail a basic description of how they
are mounted and what they transfer the upward force of the rock to? (110)

I crunched both sills at GP, and today my efforts at hammering them out made
them look awful. I took them off before hammering them out, and decided not to
put them on until I figure out what to do with that area. So for now the 110
goes around with its under-wares showing.

I guess if I put on the rock sliders a long time ago, I wouldn't have crunched
the sills and have to ask a "sill"y question.

--pat.

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From: dow <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 19:04:57 -0700
Subject: Re: "Silly" Question

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
8<
>  I have a question. It has to do with rock sliders and how they are mounted.
> Can someone who has a set (SG, etc.) e-mail a basic description of how they
> are mounted and what they transfer the upward force of the rock to? (110)

It seems like most of them attach to the firewall.  You remove the bolt
that holds the firewall to the x-member in front, mount the slider on
that, then put the bolt back in.  The other attachments are to x-members
further back.  The DR ones attach to the x-member behind the front door
as well as fore of the wheel well and the firewall.  The Mad Scientist
and I installed her DR sliders on her 90 yesterday, and I feel very
comfortable that they would withstand anything I could throw at them.  

Also, the DR rear quarterpanel protectors proved to be very strong on
our recent trip.  I slammed down HARD on the rear QP and the powder
coating was scratched a little.  The QP was totally undamaged.  I
believe that the 90 and the 88s with short sills (late IIA and III) have
identical geometry for the rear QP from the x-member to the wheel well,
so I feel pretty confident that the DR protectors would work on those
vehicles, too.

> I crunched both sills at GP, and today my efforts at hammering them out made
> them look awful. I took them off before hammering them out, and decided not to
> put them on until I figure out what to do with that area. So for now the 110
> goes around with its under-wares showing.

My sills on the 110 are in the same sad shape.  Alas, most of the damage
was done by the running boards.  I think if the SG stuff was painted
white, it would be missed by the untrained eye (like that of an LR
dealership sales person for example!).  RN sells a sill protector for
the 90 that is the same shape as the original sill, but just sticks out
a bit further.  I think I remember it being offered in colors to match
the vehicle.  It might be worth an inquiry to see if they offer same for
the 110.  I'm going to get the SG slider for my 110 because it's a
proven product, and I know of no other source for the 110.

C

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:59:20 -0400
Subject: British LRO travelling about the US....

Feel free to write him directly (he is not on the lists).
-B

Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 16:03:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: james spence <spencejames@yahoo.com>

Hi,My name is James Spence,I am new to the internet and am not too
sure of what to do,I would appreciate it if you could help me out by
sending the following message to any landrover clubs or organisations
in North America:

To:any Land Rover owners/enthusiasts.I am an English guy just arrived
in the U.S. with my Land Rover.I would like to meet anyone out there
with the Land Rover bug(YES,it probably is a sickness!).I have just
spent two and a half years with it in the outback and deserts of
Australia,having shipped it out there from England I have now shipped
the Landie to North America for a year to see the USA & Canada.
If you have any events happening or places of interest/4wd trails to
recommend,or just like to meet,it would be great to hear from you.I
haven't made any plans yet as to which way I'll be going but my Landie
arrives in Norfolk Virginia so that's where I'll be starting from(19th
Sept.).Also,if anyone has a workshop or somewhere I can service the
vehicle or advice or expertise or knows of good & helpful Land
Rover(diesel)mechanics/garages I would appreciate it if you would let
me know,you just never know when a Land Rover will have
problems(that's why we love them-right?).Likewise,if I can help anyone
with anything like travel advice;the best places in the UK to get
parts from;and what is available on the UK market that you don't
have(such as my model of Landie - which incidently is a 1990 110 Turbo
Diesel Pick-up(which I've turned into a Hard-top for
travelling))please get in touch-I love Land Rover talk!
    James
 

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 22:20:01 -0500
Subject: RE: British LRO travelling about the US....

If you are ever yup in northern Minnesota, let me know.  I am just
outside of beautiful Duluth, Mn on the north shore of Lake Superior.
Great country.

Cwolfe

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From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 10:54:18 +0700
Subject: Transfer case mystery (to me!)

Have what is a gearbox mystery to me, hope someone can help.

 I have a 1975 Series III 109 with 2.25 petrol. Suffix on my gearbox is A.
Said gearbox was just rebuilt with all new parts, etc.(as Bart would say--I
didn't do it!). Works fine in low range, will not engage high. Looking
through observation plate I can see that the low gear wheel is on the order
of 1/4 to 1/2" from engaging the high gear wheel dogs even when 4WD low
range lever is full forward to max travel. When running I can get it to
barely engage but it will pop out under load. 

Initially I thought that this was because the low range lever was bent (it
was) so I have installed all new parts on that, but no go. 

Another way to say this is that  the shaft the high and low wheel gears
ride on has three notches, first notch is low, middle is neutral, last is
high (right?), and I cannot get the last notch fully forward for the
detente ball to engage it.

I at first thought it was possible for the selector fork to be installed in
reverse. It does seem slightly offset, perhaps just enough to make that
last 1/4 inch or so. The diagram in the Autobooks manual I am consulting
appears to show the selector fork with the smaller shoulder to the front
and the larger one to the rear (this could simple be the angle of the
drawing), which is the opposite of my installation. However, the selector
fork is only threaded on the left hand side, which is the case on my
installation, which has the bolt  entering through the unthreaded hole and
engaging the threaded hole on the left (looking from the top). Thus, I
don't think that is it.

So, I am stumped. Would appreciate any assistance, even though it is likely
to be bad news!

Regards,

John Baker
Bangkok

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 22:31:14 -0700
Subject: Re: The right to arm bears (some LR Content)

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Adrian,
> I'm now back from a long weekend (took a pistol on the plane w/ me--in my
> checked baggage:-)
> You mention that the element of accountability and discipline makes the
> possession of arms by police/military more palatable than their possession by
> the general populace.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 49 lines)]
> citizens to be trained and armed have had dramatic impacts on the crime rates
> everywhere they've been implemented.

I agree. I think if trained law abiding citizens all carried weapons,
especially if concealed weapons were allowed, criminals would definately
think twice or even three times before trying something. Criminals will
always have guns weather legally or not, so it's best to even the odds.
At least we in the states don't have car bombs going off left and right.
	LR content: When I go around sharp left hand turns, my turn signal
switch turns itself on. This is especially annoying off road and at
night. Is this easy to fix or has anyone even had this problem before?

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:49:04 +0100
Subject: RE: The right to arm bears (some LR Content)

> LR content: When I go around sharp left hand turns, my turn signal
> switch turns itself on. Has anyone even had this problem before?

Nope. I disconnected my blinkers cause they turned on when I turned
by brights on. Got rid of that problem.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:59:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Transfer case mystery (to me!) 

In message <bulk.21755.19980908210131@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

>  I have a 1975 Series III 109 with 2.25 petrol. Suffix on my gearbox is A.
> Said gearbox was just rebuilt with all new parts, etc.(as Bart would say--I
> didn't do it!). Works fine in low range, will not engage high. 

	[snip]

> Another way to say this is that  the shaft the high and low wheel gears
> ride on has three notches, first notch is low, middle is neutral, last is
> high (right?), and I cannot get the last notch fully forward for the
> detente ball to engage it.

	Is the fulcrum for the high/low (red) lever mounted correctly?  As I 
recall, it bolts up to a tab coming the bellhousing.  If bracket is bolted on 
one side of this tab, you wont be able to push the lever far enough forward to 
engage high range.  If it is bolted on the other side, then it works.  For
the life of me I can't recall which way was which.  (And yes this suprised
me once, which is why I remember).

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

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From: Ian Vowles <Ian@modricusa.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 00:07:54 -0500
Subject: Re: The right to arm bears (NO LR Content)

Bill,

As an expatriate Brit soon to be a US citizen you said it wonderfully :-)

Freedom is not free - it costs , and I sure appreciate my freedom here and
will defend it . History has shown - terribly clearly - that the quickest
way to domination is the disarmament of the society , the Nazi rise to
power  being a vivid example.

An armed society is definitely a more polite society !!

Results from all studies show that States that enact sensible "shall issue"
concealed carry laws enjoy reductions in violent crimes against the person
- why did the thugs in Florida target tourist hire cars - because they
would be unarmed.

First rule of a gunfight - take a gun.

Equally gun ownership / use requires responsibility - ( same as a Landy at
top speed ! )

There is however a point that many of us in the US may not appreciate -
some parts of Europe have for some 50 years , had a knee jerk type reaction
to what may be considered "conservative" or "right wing" type thinking - if
you are occupied by the severe right - in Europe's case the Nazi's - after
WW11 many of these society leaned more to the left as a reaction to what
they had endured.

I am married to a Dutch girl , and from that vantage point , what I say
makes sense.

Grandmother was a POW in a Japanese camp , family were either imprisoned or
just plain suffered occupation (in Holland ) - when we discuss these things
they willingly admit a preference to the left ( ie socialist ) because of
their history.

We should learn from history , not replicate it.

I also thank this list - the wealth of knowledge is priceless.( On Landy's
and Life )

Back to lurking !

Ian ( Colorado - with lousy firearms laws !)
1966 S11A
and lots of Lee Enfields to back it up !

At 08:29 PM 9/8/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Adrian,
>I'm now back from a long weekend (took a pistol on the plane w/ me--in my
>checked baggage:-)
>You mention that the element of accountability and discipline makes the
>possession of arms by police/military more palatable than their possession by
>the general populace.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>someone else to provide it.  Many police cars here in the States have the
>motto "To protect and serve" on their doors, which has always irked me.
Their
>role is not to protect, but to provide a limited amount of deterrence and to
>"mop up" already completed attempted/successful criminal actions.  They're
the
>military police, not the infantry, to use a military illustration.
>Nobody's ever established a causal relationship between an armed populace and
>a high crime rate--anywhere.  Mexico--very few guns--over 200,000 murders w/
>knives.  Switzerland--lots o' guns--almost no violent crime.  Great
>Britain--few guns--higher violent crime rate now than before they had gun
>control.
>I believe a system which maximizes the responsibility/liberty (yup, in that
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>those who abuse this freedom (i.e., use a firearm in a crime, do LOTS of
>time), but to penalize the entire country because of the irresponsibility
of a
>few is not only illogical, but is counter-productive, for you make the law-
>abiding people into perfect targets for those who abuse their libertys and
pay

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From: Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 10:35:07 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: paints again

Frank wrote recently:
: Do you have Tekaloid in the States? I paint my vehicle with Tekaloid 'Land
: Rover Dark Bronze Green' (sorry no number) which is a match for the Ser 1 
Bronze
: Green.

Hi Frank,

What is the source for this elixir in the UK ? I have been unsuccessful in my 
touch up 
efforts so far with my bronze green SIII. I still have a war wound on the side 
of mine 
that has been in red oxide primer since I got it !

For the record Dark Green Smoothrite is absolutely nowhere near ;-)

http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/colours.htm

Cheers,

Paul.

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