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From: Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:50:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold refit question (oh no it's not) 

Smitty wrote (under this subject ;-):

: I thought suspenders were something else in the UK, but then again it
: is Sunday. Nevermind.

Well if suspenders are suspenders in the US, what are Suspenders (UK) called 
over there ?

Just Curious !!!! ;-)

Paul.

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From: jthompso@ozemail.com.au
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 98 21:51:33 +0900
Subject: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 8:32:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Was bleeding brakes and - whoops!

Do yourself a huge favor and fork over for a new wheel cylinder. If the 
threads on the bleed nipple are so corroded, the restoration will end up 
being more trouble than it's worth. Buying new brake parts is never 
foolish money.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:29:17 +0100
Subject: Re:  Re: major swivel pin leak

Am I being thick or is there an easy way of 
doing this? Why not just disconnect the break 
pipe and track rod ends so that the swivel 
housing complete with hub, brakes etc... is free. 
Then undo the bolts that secure the swivel 
housing to the axle.Then carefully pull housing 
back whilst at the same time pulling the half-shaft 
out of the axle (remember it's heavy). Then 
replace seal on housing and put back the same 
way. Remember to bleed brakes when back 
together. If you only need to replace the seal 
then I would have thought this was the best way 
to do. Should take about an hour.

> In a message dated 9/3/98 7:35:20 PM, you wrote:
> <<get a seal, remove the retaining ring, slide back. ease the seal out, cut it
> and pull it off. Get new seal, cut it and throw away the spring. 
> Fit it over the axle, turn the cut to the top, dab some superglue on and fit
> it in place. Replace the retaining ring.
> This works, honest!!!>>

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> required other than a swivel seal and possible a paper gasket for the axle
> end?

Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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From: john taylor <jht@easynet.ca>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 08:45:14 -0400
Subject: Was bleeding brakes and - whoops!

If you have the patience you can bleed by almost removing one seal in the
wheel cylinder and bleed past the top edge of it by tilting the seal and
steel piston together. Everything will fall out at least once 'coz there's a
spring in there so work over a newspaper or cloth to catch the bits and keep
them clean.
John Taylor
IIa v6 bastard

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:55:48 +0000
Subject: Re:  Re: major swivel pin leak

 Then
replace seal on housing and put back the same
way. Remember to bleed brakes when back
together. If you only need to replace the seal
then I would have thought this was the best way
>to do. Should take about an hour.
Takes a *lot* less time to do it the split seal way.I've been there
and done that.In fact,I beleive in Oz,someone actually sells a split
seal.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:18:27 +1000
Subject: : Compression Questions (LONG-NO LR CONTENT)

From: Adrian Redmond asked:
>Is adultery or oral sex a crime in the US?

In many US States, yes.  In fact, for many US states, it is unlawful to have
sex with someone to whom you are not married.  I think they use the term
fornication for this act.

An odd country really.

Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:24:11 +1000
Subject: secret low cost rover upgrade

David wrote:
<Weed and whack both mean that here too.  A weed whacker is a powered weed
cutter.  It might even be a trademark.  It has nylon string on the end of
a stick, which spins round and cuts weeds, but doesn't fling as many rocks
and sticks as a blade would.  I am sure you have them in Oz.  >

We call them line trimmers.  Mine's a Stihl - US made but no Weed Whacker on
the box when I bought it.

Ron

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 09:06:12 EDT
Subject: Re:  SIIa Hub --> SIII ???

a s2a hub will work, but you don't want to use one permanently. The wheel
studs on a s3 are metric. You'd have to remember which wheel used the odd size
nuts. Don't know if the studs can be pressed out of your bad s3 hub and into
your s2a freebie. List?
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 09:12:21 EDT
Subject: Re:  Fire... or lack thereof

steve, the little slug that goes under the dizzy is specific for lucas of
ducellier (doo-CELL-yay). Make sure you get it out and use the right one. The
slug and the dizzy should only go in one way, as the ridge on one side and the
slot on th other are slightly offset from center line. If you force it, it may
become well and truly chewed. Back in my days as a Peugoet Renault service
mgr, we would see the ducelliers chew themselves in half when the advance
springs gave way. Something to look out for.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 09:16:43 -0400
Subject: Re: SIIa Hub --> SIII ???

The IIa hub is not the same - if it's an earlier one, it has smaller lugs,
which will fit but won't match the lugnuts on the other three wheels.

Either get a S.III hub, or get the torch out and anneal the chunk of the
extractor and drill it out. Retap 3/8 BSF fine (3/8-26).

                         ajr

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 15:41:49 +0200
Subject: Re: : Compression Questions (LONG-NO LR CONTENT)

The Becketts wrote:
In many US States, yes.  In fact, for many US states, it is unlawful to
have sex with someone to whom you are not married.  I think they use the
term fornication for this act.

Puritan perversions! Talk about walking the talk...

:-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: Ed Alvarez <alvarez@btnmail.mozcom.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 21:58:45 +0800
Subject: Automotive manual for D90

Hi list,

hi i've just recently joined the list and have been hanging around enjoying
and learning alot from the posts.  I was wondering if any one might know
where i can get  a  repair manual, the kind that tells you everything, how
to fix all the systems, for a 1997 or 1998 D90 2.5 Tdi? 

Where i live, is kind of far from the dealers and i would like to be able
to maintain the vehicle properly.

thank you 

Ed Alvarez
Butuan City 
Philippines
(63 85)3424995  

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:30:17 EDT
Subject: Seen this book out yet?

Has anyone seen this book out there? Just curious if it is any good...

**
LAND ROVER COMMISSIONS 50TH ANNIVERSARY EXPEDITION GUIDE 

With its 50 year heritage steeped in overland expeditions all over the 
world, Land Rover is constantly requested to offer guidance to budding 
and experienced explorers. This expertise is now contained in a 
comprehensive new book - Vehicle-dependent EXPEDITION GUIDE, written by 
leading explorer Tom Sheppard. ... etc., etc.  **

More fully described at this site:

http://www.coventry.org.uk/news/newswire/rover/980112.htm

--pat.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:49:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Seen this book out yet?

Re: Expedition guide:

Of course, considering their new slant toward expeditions (Freelanders on
the Camel Trophy? What are they SMOKING?!?!?)
it's probably about keeping your CDs clean in a dusty car park, and the
essential supplies list for ferrying the little ones to football
practice...all the necessary things, of course.

               ajr

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From: "Robert McCullough" <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:41:20 -0400
Subject: trac-edge
	charset="iso-8859-1"

the trac-edge tires on my 88 are 7.50x16, load range d

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 07:49:24 -0700
Subject: Re: [D90] Trip Report:  Rubicon Trail (LONG)

I realized I should have just written this and saved it, then edited it this
morning.  It was way to late when I sent it, and my mind was tracking poorly. 
so, I'm sending these amendments to all the original recipientes.  I won't make
a habit of cross-posting, I promise!

> After leaving camp at Buck Island Lake, we immediately encountered a difficult
> section of trail.  This is where I gained a great appreciation for the D90 and
> an even greater respect for those (like Eric Cope) who skillfully wheel series
> Rovers without power steering or power brakes and with an 80-hp-on-a-good-day
> engine over rocks without destroying them (the Rovers, not the rocks!).  It's
> just easier to get a D90 through that kind of stuff.  So, to settle that
> argument (for me, at least):  I was there, and I drove both cars, and the D90
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> wheel the 90.  Period.  However, I do think three Defenders is a bit much for
> us, so I'll continue to take the IIA on trails that would eat the 110 for 
lunch.

I certainly mean no disrespect to any other Series drivers here, it's just that
Eric is the only one I've *seen* on a trail crawling over rocks and not mangling
his IIA, so he came to mind.  

> I believe anyone with a stock D90, Disco, or Rangie can do the parts of this
> trail that we did.  I highly recommend, however, that the rigbt body 
protection
> peices be used:  Sill protectors/Rock Sliders, Quarter panel protectors, diff
> guards (TMS and I each lost our rear diff guards, so welding is a Good Thing).
> It's a great trip and in a beautiful place.  (N. Cal, near Lake Tahoe, for 
those
> who don't know).  I think only those with the extreme in mind should try the
> Little Sluice Box.  It really looks aweful.

Also, some skill is needed, but I'm certainly no expert.  This probably
shouldn't be your first trail.  TMS has wheeled her Disco a bit, but this was
only the second time in her 90.  Actually, I think that was an advantage--she
was used to the drive train (auto trans and 4.0l V8 just like the Disco) of the
D90, but was used to the going being a bit harder due to the wheelbase and the
various pieces on the stock Disco that seem to have been place for removal by
rocks.  Also, I think it would be a good idea for Discos or Rangies to get
different bumpers (ARB, SG, etc.) before trying this trail.  

Going with a group that's done it before (even if not in the same type of
vehicle) is a good idea.  Further, I didn't mean to imply that a Series vehicle
*can't* do it without damage--it's just harder.  I'm sure a better driver than I
who had the gumption to hold up people when they needed time (unlike me), would
get a Series rig through just fine.

C

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:08:25 +0100
Subject: RE: secret low cost rover upgrade

> We call them line trimmers.  Mine's a Stihl - US made but no 
> Weed Whacker on the box when I bought it

100% slang... I can't think of any marketing guy who would keep 
his job for very long after that one  =:)

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 08:09:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Seen this book out yet?

Yes, I have it.  It's actually a pretty good book.  Remember, the book was
commissioned by Land Rover--not LRNA.  It has good info about a great many
things.  Speaks highly of Series Rovers, too--although Tom has a modified D90 he
uses for expeditions.  For those who don't know, Tom Sheppard is the guy who
lead the 101 expedition across some part of the Sahara in the '70s.  It was the
first time that route had been traversed in recorded history.  LROI or LRW did a
story on it a few months back.  I'm glad I bought the book. 

C

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:18:04 +0100
Subject: Delco Alternators...

Is anyone else out there using a Delco alternator... not sure of the 
exact part number... it's a 65amp model with the main positive
and negative terminals and another two prongs labeld "I" and "2"
or maybe that "1" and "2"... dunno... anyway... it's just not charging.
I need to see that it's even working, but It's new... 

So what are the other two pins for?

-Scott

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 08:24:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Delco Alternators...

Hey Scott,

Check out http://www.thelen.org/IIAAlternator.html

That's how I did it, and includes input from John Ousterhout and Alan Richer.

C

Scott Wilson wrote:

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From: "Duncan Fletcher" <duncan.fletcher@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 16:31:44 +0100
Subject: Purchasing a Disco
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi,
I am new to this newsgroup but not new to 4 x 4's.I have spent most of =
my life in various countries in Africa and have now settled in the =
UK,where the 4x4 scene is very different.I have spent a lot of time in =
Landrovers from '56 S1 through S3.

I am presently looking for a vehicle to use here in the UK.I have looked =
at the Disco but have heard some very negative comments(bodywork,gearbox =
and quality in general)Perhaps someone would like to enlighten me?

Are there any sites out there where I can get some descent Landrover =
screen savers(1024x768)?I have downloaded one from the US distributer =
but it is for 600x480 resolution screens.I would also like to get hold =
of a 1024x768 Landrover Logo Bitmap.

Thanks

Duncan Fletcher

duncan.fletcher@btinternet.com

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 17:14:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Glass in Safari top

Keith Elliott wrote:

>  I have to replace the sliding side windows on one side. I am wondering how 
is this done?

I seem to remember removing the lock slides at the top of the windows, then the 
top channel screws have to be removed ( I usually finish up drilling these out 
and using pop-rivets to fix the new ones) so enabling the glass to lean inwards 
and be lifted out of the bottom channel.Refiitting is reverse of removal, to 
quote!
Once the slide bars for the locks are removed its much the same as the door 
windows.
Good luck!

 Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol 
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:12:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Delco Alternators...

On Mon, 7 Sep 1998, Scott Wilson wrote:
> or maybe that "1" and "2"... dunno... anyway... it's just not charging.
> I need to see that it's even working, but It's new... 
> So what are the other two pins for?

Go to your favorite autoparts store, and buy a plug that fits into the
alternator.  It will have two leads, one red the other black or white.
The red lead is the sense lead.  It controls the voltage regulator.  The
other lead provides excitment current for the field, and also controls the
idiot light.  Al Richer has pretty complete instructions in the FAQ.  

David

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 09:52:12 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Yippee! The Pics from our 98 Rubicon trip]

TMS forgot the Calloccia lists in her message pointing to the pics from our
trip.

C
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[spamkill: previously forwarded via mjrdomo? input: %s]	 Return-Path: 
<owner-d90@MailingList.net>
[spamkill: previously forwarded via mjrdomo? input: %s]	 Received: by 
mailinglist.net (bulk_mailer v1.9); Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:39:12 -0600

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:01:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Seen this book out yet?

Yes, I have it......and it is pretty good!

I have cruised and sailed off shore, so the GPS and Navigation stuff was a
bit redundant for me.

The single 'coolest' thing I learned was the DIBS-mirror for virgin desert
(page 4.2-34)
Your eyes 'resting focus' is approximately 1metre - 3 feet. In the noon day
sun, your eyes, if not stimulated by shadows or debris will revert to
resting focus. The result is that you are racing across the flat desert at a
goodly speed and 1-3 foot jumps or walls go unmissed! - you get the idea -
great photo of a vehicle that flew over 70 feet because of this. I now
understand why looking into the fog has played such tricks with my focus.

So, you use a mirror to reflect a spot from the sun onto the desert 100ft,
30 metres ahead of you - the light spot causes your eyes to focus further
AND when it 'bounces' you know there is a change in elevation.

I recommend it, it cost my wife $100 for the book and delivery for my
birthday at the end of August, but it was worth it.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:12:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

ping

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:45:30 -0700
Subject: test

ping

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:48:02 -0700
Subject: Portland Show - LONG

Thank You for the request about the Portland Results, Gerry.

I am writing the article for the Pacific Coast Rover Club and will relay
some information to the Land Rover community here. This is regarded as the
biggest ABFM in the West and possible N.A. Land Rover was the show marquee
this year and had the largest turn out ever, along with being the largest
vehicle class on the field.

This sheet is broken down into VEHICLES, NUMBERS, SHOW, OPINIONS and
RESULTS.

The VEHICLES:
Some were very unique, the rarest (in my experience and opinion) was the
driven trailer attached to a 101. In 1975 Tom Sheppard was the first manned
vehicle team to cross the Sahara from west to east, he did it in 101's with
driven trailers. At the start, one of the trailers was abandoned, leaving
only two driven trailers and a trailerless 101 to do the arduous crossing.
The result at this show is that there was one of only three driven trailers
built, being showed. Mike Fredette owns the 1960 101 with it's 1974 trailer.
John Woodhead showed off his 1951 concoures Series 1. This vehicle not only
took first in his class, but also took best overall vehicle in the Land
Rover Field.
There was also an Electric Land Rover that I took a hard look at........and
got to drive! Wow, what a treat! You let the clutch out in second and do not
touch the gas (takes a bit of getting used to). I put my foot down half way
and the LR leaped forward, spinning its tires. Top speed is estimated at
80-90 MPH, 50 mile range.
There were a number of other interesting vehicles on display (and in use),
including a Lightweight, Ambulance, a number of Dormobiles, Stage One V8 and
others.

The NUMBERS:
151 vehicles on the field during the show.
53 Land Rovers camped Friday.
73 Land Rovers camped Saturday.

The SHOW
For those who missed it, this show is always held Labor Day weekend. Camping
for registered Land Rovers was free on the PIR grounds both Friday and
Saturday. On Saturday, the show ran from 1000-1500, then their was awards
given for a number of classes. Michael McKeag hosted a slide show Saturday
night of the Red Rock Expedition. A free pancake breakfast was held Sunday,
hosted by the PCRC. Sunday was the swap meet - and a really go turn out of
Series Parts was to be had.......if you took nothing home it would be rare
indeed. Sunday was also the time to take your vehicle around the offroad
track - I saw a number of vehicles getting air! - as I was eating their
dust.
Land Rover Series II/IIA 88's were the largest single class in the field of
Land Rovers, with over 45 vehicles. There was also an impressive turnout of
the Defender class.
People came from WA, OR, CA, ID, MO and BC, Canada.
A number of volunteers worked countless hours for the success of this 50th
anniversary show and their efforts were instrumental in the positive effects
felt by all.

My OPINION - and a few from some of the people I spoke with.
The list offers a unique experience that would not be available in an
article that I write - that is opinions, so here they are........ The show
was the biggest ever, it was also the lease organized, especially when it
came to the vehicles awards. All classes suffered from misinformed awards -
the results for the Land Rovers were that 50% of the people who 'claimed'
their awards were NOT awarded vehicles. I did my best to rectify the awards
but I was unable to get any more 1st's - So, Kent Shih went home without his
first prize.
A number of class changes may make the show better in the future, including:
Move Rover cars to class RL-51, so that they are displayed in front of the
Land Rovers, rather than hidden behind. Introduce RL-59 as the Dormobile
class, since we get as many Dormobiles as cars and Series I's.

Here are the RESULTS of the different Classes - if a name is misspelled,
please inform me.
RL-52, Series 1's: 1st-John Woodhead (1951 80" Ser1), 2nd-Bill Rice (51 S1),
John and Lisa Middleton (57 LWB).
RL-53, Series II/IIA 88": 1st-David Walker (1970), 2nd-Gord'n and Stefani
Perrott(1962), 3rd-Dan Mallchok(1968).
RL-54, Series II/IIA 109": 1st-Tony and Linda(1967), 2nd-Charles
Kellogg(64pu), 3rd-Todd Marccum(1967).
RL-55, SeriesIII: 1st-Kent Shih(82 Stage One), 2nd-Steve and Ingrid
Hyde(74), 3rd-John Reece(1973).
RL-56, Defenders: 1st-Bruce Bonar(94D90), 2nd-Mike McKeag(94D90), 3rd-Fred
Lawless (97D90).
RL-57, Special: 1st-Mike Fredette(1960-101 with trailer), 2nd-Ian
MacArthur(1970Ambulance), 3rd-Pamela Perrott(1973LtWt).
RL-58, Disco's and RR: 1st-Ed and Meredith Sanman(97Disco), 2nd-#564,
3rd-Unavailable.
RL-59, Rover Cars: 1st-Ron Wilken(67-3.5l), 2nd-Reed Elwyn(68-2000TC),
Randell and Sharron Clarke(87-825SL).

If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at
wahooadv@earthlink.net
Thank You one and all for the tolerance across the list.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:48:49 -0700
Subject: Fw: Seen this book out yet?

>Yes, I have it......and it is pretty good!
>I have cruised and sailed off shore, so the GPS and Navigation stuff was a
>bit redundant for me.
>The single 'coolest' thing I learned was the DIBS-mirror for virgin desert
>(page 4.2-34)
>Your eyes 'resting focus' is approximately 1metre - 3 feet. In the noon day
>sun, your eyes, if not stimulated by shadows or debris will revert to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>sun, your eyes, if not stimulated by shadows or debris will revert to
>resting focus. The result is that you are racing across the flat desert at
a
>goodly speed and 1-3 foot jumps or walls go unmissed! - you get the idea -
>great photo of a vehicle that flew over 70 feet because of this. I now
>understand why looking into the fog has played such tricks with my focus.
>So, you use a mirror to reflect a spot from the sun onto the desert 100ft,
>30 metres ahead of you - the light spot causes your eyes to focus further
>AND when it 'bounces' you know there is a change in elevation.
>I recommend it, it cost my wife $100 for the book and delivery for my
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>S/V KALAKALA  - our home
>wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:09:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Delco Alternators...

The two pinbs on the side connector are the charge light and the load
sense, respectively. Go to an auto-parts store and get the mating plug for
this - they're about $3.00.

The white lead goes to the bulb (connect it to the lead for the bulb that
came from your old regulator). The other is the voltage sense - it should
be tied to +12 at the fuseblock for proper sense, but tying it back to the
output lug on the back is acceptable for testing purposes.

Note: BOTH of these have to be hooked up for this alternator to work!

Email me for more data - I have one sitting on the bench to examine if need
be.

                    ajr

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:56:21 -0700
Subject: Tom Sheppard's Expedition Vehicles Guide

Tom Sheppard's book is most not about Freelanders.......although he mentions
Unimogs and a number of other very rugged vehicles.
Yes, I have it......and it is pretty good!

I have cruised and sailed off shore, so the GPS and Navigation stuff was a
bit redundant for me.

The single 'coolest' thing I learned was the DIBS-mirror for virgin desert
(page 4.2-34)
Your eyes 'resting focus' is approximately 1metre - 3 feet. In the noon day
sun, your eyes, if not stimulated by shadows or debris will revert to
resting focus. The result is that you are racing across the flat desert at a
goodley speed and 1-3 foot jumps or walls go unmissed! - you get the idea -
great photo of a vehicle that flew over 70 feet because of this. I now
understand why looking into the fog has played such tricks with my focus.

So, you use a mirror to reflect a spot from the sun onto the desert 100ft,
30 metres ahead of you - the light spot causes your eyes to focus further
AND when it 'bounces' you know there is a change in elevation.

I recommend it, it cost my wife $100 for the book and delivery for my
birthday at the end of August, but it was worth it.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 11:17:31 -0700
Subject: Re: : Compression Questions (LONG-NO LR CONTENT)

The Becketts wrote:

> From: Adrian Redmond asked:
> >Is adultery or oral sex a crime in the US?
> In many US States, yes.  In fact, for many US states, it is unlawful to have
> sex with someone to whom you are not married.  I think they use the term
> fornication for this act.
> An odd country really.

Fornication usually applies to the unmarried person and adultery to the married.

Keep in mind that there are many laws which are simply not enforced.  Aside from
the military, I don't believe any states actually prosecute adultery as a crime.
(I think there might have been one from one of the bible-belt states.)   There
are also many laws on the books that simply are outdated and never got
repealed.  (The lawmakers keep adding laws over the years and forget about
taking out the outdated or useless ones.)  How would you like to get prosecuted
for insulting fruits and vegetables?  (Remember Oprah Winfrey - a talk show host
- was sued (civil, not criminal) for her comments about beef.)

Does the UK have laws against adultery?  Are they enforced?  There are countries
with laws against adultery where the punishment is severe.  I believe earlier
this year there were public stoning (to death) under the new regime in
Afganistan.

The US is a great place to live.    OK, back to LRs.

Frank

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:28:01 EDT
Subject: Gen-you-wine Gasket set question

Hi all,

In the final steps of putting the engine ancillaries all back on.  Do most
folks find multiple copies of various smallish gaskets in the genuine LR
engine gasket sets?
I have 6 oil filter housing gaskets, 3 fuel pump gaskets and 2 of each style
(early and late) water pump gaskets.  Is this the norm? 

I did notice there's only 1 head gasket.

Nate

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 20:34:54 +0200
Subject: Re.: Seen this book out yet?

I bought this book 3-4 months ago.

It is written by the same author (Tom Sheppard) who wrote The Land Rover
Experience, also published with Land Rover. This book is published in
association with Land Rover and Desert Winds.

Its a large book (at a guess maybe 4-500 pages)  covering Preliminary
planning, eq. planning, people and training, vehicles (not only LR),
operations (including excellent info on navigation from old to latest high
tech) etc.

The layout is excellent (like the other book) and the style is clear and to
the point. It has one of the better coverages of all types of clothing
(breathable etc) that I have seen. It covers tents and camping, cooking,
hygiene and safety.

Interesting  details about vehicle modifications, electrics (dual batteries
etc). In my opinion a valuable, interesting book that can be read  or used
as a reference along with the other mentioned book.. Recommended.

Bjoernung
Norway

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:01:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Was bleeding brakes and - whoops!

In my experience it is very difficult to get a broken nipple out. Even
resorting to drilling is seldom successful.
Replace the aluminum cylinder with an iron one and put some 'neversieze' on
the bleed screw threads and you willnever have the problem again. Ray Wood

----------
> From: Vel Natarajan <vel@enteract.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Was bleeding brakes and - whoops!
> Date: Sunday, September 06, 1998 7:18 AM
> I was in the process of bleeding my brakes, and whilst trying to loosen

the
> bleed nipple on the rear brake, I sheared off the nipple.  It seems to
> not leak any fluid, but I'm sort of hosed when it comes to doing the job
> that I intended to do.
> What's the best way to remedy this?  I assume I'll need to remove the
> I was in the process of bleeding my brakes, and whilst trying to loosen
rear
> hub to get an easy-out in there and replace the threaded portion of
> the nipple that's stuck in there...
> (Anyway, I bled the other side and have SOME pedal resistance now.  It
> What's the best way to remedy this?  I assume I'll need to remove the
will

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:12:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Fire... or lack thereof

Steve we sell those ducillier distributors here and they work just fine. If
you still have a problem give me a call at 1-800-888-2600 and I will walk
you a set up proceedure. Ray Wood Wise Owl.

----------
> From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Fire... or lack thereof
> Date: Sunday, September 06, 1998 1:05 PM
> The new engine went in last night but would not light off this afternoon.

> The coil worked fine on Thursday when I started taking thing apart and is
> now getting a good 12 volts.  The distrubutor on the new eng is a
Ducellier
> (made in France!!) and was pre mounted.  The condenser has a short wire
> which I connected to both terminals on the coil with no luck (not at the
> same time).
> Has anybody had any experience with this type of thing?  I put on my old
> distributor aligned same as the new and got sparking but with fire both

out
> the exhaust and carb.  I also found during the dist. swap half of a
mating
> ring that goes under the dist. pretty chewed up.  I'm wondering what
> happened to the other half and will be pulling the pan as soon as I get
it

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:17:49 -0700
Subject: Re: SIIa Hub --> SIII ???

No! The IIA hub has smaller studs to hold on thr wheel. But take the IIA
hub, drill out the small studs with a 9/16 drill and install the pull in
series III wheel studs. Part 576825 about $2.00 each.

Ray Wood

----------
> From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: SIIa Hub --> SIII ???
> Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 12:57 AM
> Well, the subject sez it all really...... 
> One of the bolts that holds the half-shaft flange to the rear hub on my

88"
> SIII was broken off when I had it. I've finally decided to replace the
hub

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:28:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hi frank!

Works for me, anything besides the Mr. Bill show....;-)
Smitty
---Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
 In a message dated 06/09/98 20:21:49 BST, you write:
 
 <<  lying about how good our trucks our...;-) >>
 Dale,
 yesterday my 110 caufght a fish that was TH...iiiiiii..... SS big.
 Is that what you mean?
 Best Cheers
 Frank

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:22:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hi frank!

Works for me, anything besides the Mr. Bill show....;-)
Smitty
---Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
 In a message dated 06/09/98 20:21:49 BST, you write:
 
 <<  lying about how good our trucks our...;-) >>
 Dale,
 yesterday my 110 caufght a fish that was TH...iiiiiii..... SS big.
 Is that what you mean?
 Best Cheers
 Frank

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 20:06:07 +0100
Subject: Re: SIIa Hub --> SIII ???

Dunc are the wheel nuts the same ie 27mm  if so you should be allright.
If not you could try drilling and using new larger studs in the 2a stub.
By the way both of my 2a`s use the metric nuts/studs.

-- 
andy Smith
1965 S2a V8 Swb 
1971 S2a 2.25P SWb
Tamworth STaffordshire.

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 20:05:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

I set the tappets cold the first time I ever did that job and it only
ran on 3 cylinders. Set them hot you should lose the rattle, the rattle
is caused by too much gap.

-- 
andy Smith

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From: Philip and Aimee Houser <pahouser@fidnet.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:03:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Delco Alternators...

<Is anyone else out there using a Delco alternator... not sure of the
<exact part number... it's a 65amp model with the main positive
<and negative terminals and another two prongs labeld "I" and "2"
<or maybe that "1" and "2"... dunno... anyway... it's just not charging.
<I need to see that it's even working, but It's new...
<So what are the other two pins for?
<-Scott

Hah!!, a chance to contribute!!  As a non-LR-owing member of the LRO list
(?!?!?), I don't usually have any info. that will help... but Delco I know
about.

  *The big, main positive is connencted to the battery
  *The "1" terminal is normally wired through an indicator light (alt) and
then to the ignition switch.  Power applied to this terminal "turns on" the
alternator, and if the alternator isn't generating as much voltage as is in
the battery the indicator light will glow.
  *The "2" terminal is the voltage sensing lead for the internal,
solid-state regulator.  The best place to connect this is at the battery,
but you can connect it to the big, main positive terminal on the alternator
  *Negative is, well, ground, earth, minus, etc. - usually supplied by the
chassis of the alternator bolted to the mount bolted to the engine block
connected to the battery.

Hope this helps!!!
		Philip, the LR-less
		'72 Mercedes 280SE 4.5 (108)
		'85 Chevy Suburban
		'68 Chevy C-10

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:57:27 -0600
Subject: Your dream fleet

John Hong recently e-mailed me, mentioning that he had six Rovers in the
stable. I thought it might be interesting to see what 6 other list members
would have (roverwise) in their "dream fleets." If we get enough responses
I'll compile them for everyone's enjoyment. Here's my short list to start
it off:

1. IIa 88 SW (my first and therefore overall favorite)
2. IIa 109 2dr (most versatile rover, IMHO)
3. I 86" (my personal favorite, aesthetically)
4. Defender 90 TDi (probably the best out of the box off-roader, ever)
5. Defender 110 NAS V8 (for towing other rovers, etc)
6. Range Rover Classic (Best Off-Road/On Road mix of any vehicle, don't
like the newer bodystyle though)

regards,
joseph and sidney
Missoula, MT

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:03:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Tappet adjustment

If we're talking 2.25 or 2.5 Series engines - I beg to differ!

The manual, and a small label on the rocker cover states clearly "Set
clearances to 0.010" hot or cold"

I have never experienced divergence between hot and cold alignment, and
I have tried both plenty of times. I check my tappets about every two or
three months - there is always some advantage to be gained, so I guess
that this implies that the settings move after a while.

But I hav experienced setting the gaps and being very unsatisfied with
the result - then resetting them a few minutes later using exactly the
same M.O. and getting much better results.

I maintain that the secret is to correctly guage/judge the extreme open
deadpoint of the valve which is to be open, when the particular valve
under adjustment has to be set. Likewise ensuring no turn on the tappet
screw when tightening the locknut is vital.

It took me several years to get the hang of this, especially using a
feeler guage. With a 0.010" wafer, there is still plenty of room for
misalignment - either too tight, or too loose. Just right cannot be
measured, it can be felt - hence the name "feeler guage" - but I was
years before I realised that it's not the guage which does the feeling 
- it's me.

Before setting the tappets, especially if the head gasket has been
changed recently, it's always best to check the torque on the head -
especially the head bolts which hold the rocker axle in place - any
slight play here will affect the tappet clearances.

With a regular setting of tappets and timing check, I find that the SIII
2.25 diesel performs really well - good acceleration (for a landy) low
noise (for a landy) and low on smoke.

This is probably the simplest, cheapest and quickest way of getting the
best performance out of any land rover - when the going gets sluggish
and shove comes to push - I always start here. After that - pump timing.

It is also worth checking that your gas pedal actually travels properly
- no slip on its axle, and full travel equal to full travel on the gas
cable to the dist.pump (diesel) Correct setting and tightening of all
parts can also remove many a small problem.

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 17:30:14 -0400
Subject: Bleedin brakes

Vel, now that the actiual bleed nipple has sheared off, you have several
choices, ignore it and it will go away; 2, remove and replace with a new
cylinder, 3. remove and drill and tap the nipple and fit a new one, or
easiest of all bleed the brakes via the brake pipe nipple.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 00:04:43 +0200
Subject: The SUN - a newspaper? Come on Frank!

One of the problems of working in journalism is being tarred with the
same brush as that used to paint the gutter press.

The SUN is a publication - a highly successful, profitable, popular, and
well know publication - but leave off - the SUN is NOT a newspaper.
There is less journalism in the SUN than LR content in this letter.

Every country needs comics for the adults, and every country has them.
The problem is, that too many readers have grown up thinking that a wad
of lies which is big on pictures and low on big words, which is small
enough to fold into your pocket, and thick enough to fool you into
buying it, is a newspaper.

Newspapers tell stories too (even porkies sometimes) but generally they
give you an idea of what the story is about, what the sources are, and
what the editorial leanings of the publisher are.

Page upon page of how soap opera stars survived their last
divorce/wedding/affair/vasectomy/miscarriage, dubious exposes about
naughty vicars and scoutleaders, fantasy about this or that
rock/pop/football stars latest love affair, royalty-porno and
competitions where you can win a week in Spain are not news - not by a
long shot.

For such comics to even lower themselves to relating to what's going on
in the world, a full scale war, national strike, or at least a dead pop
star is usually necessary. Remember the Falklands, with all the complex
issues of England accepting its dubiously acquired but all too real
sovereigty obligations in the South Atlantic when faced with a sudden
publicity stunt from a certain beef-breeding banana republic? The
delicate issues of our leaderships motivation for approving military
engagement was completly overshadowed in the Sun by such jingoistic
pearls of editorial wit as "GOTCHA" (Sinking of the Belgrano).

This was not the point of the secondary education which most of us
enjoyed (or got). It was not what "Grandad fought Rommel for", and it
certainly doesn't reflect the "Solihull Spirit" - it's degrading. Just
try living aborad as an ex-pat brit for 15 years, and you'll know what i
mean. People in Scandinavia actually ask "Is the Britisg general public
so moronic that they actually pay for this feeble excuse for journalism"
Sadly, I must mutter soemthing about "Freedom of the press, the dignity
of working class values, and Fleet street isn't what it used to be"

I'm no purist - I don't think the comics should be banned - but i do
think that the rest of the media and the establishment - and society at
large - should cease affording this trash the respect and freedom of
operating as newspapers, just because once every six months, they write
a story about something serious.

News is not just about freedom of speech or the public's right to know -
it is also about giving the reader/viewer/listener a diet of information
- which in some way contributes to an awareness of what's going on in
the world outside - how it affects them, and what influence the man in
the street has about any of it. Freedom of the press, and quality
reporting of all issues in society - even entertainment issues like
off-roading - are the foundation of democracy.

Crap stories which don't hold water nearly as well as the hack who wrote
them holds whiskey are a threat to democracy. They kid the public into
believing that it doesn't matter a toss. It does.

(In my humble opinion that is....)

Now where can I buy miniture imperial size allen keys in Denmark? Why
are my freewheel hubs still noisy in 2WD? It's about time i reconnected
the oil pressure guage in my 109"

Adrian Redmond

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:12:00 -0400
Subject: Hubs

The hubs on ser 2 and 3 vehicles differ, the ser 2, 2A has 9/16" BSF studs
screwed into the hub , whilst the series 3 has 16 mm headed  studs pressed
into the hub, . In other respects they are the same.  The studs from the ser
3 can be fitted to the 2 hub, simply remove the 9/16 studs, drill out the
hole to 5/8 "dia, countersink the back to take the stud head, Press out the
studs from the damaged ser 3 hub  and press the studs into the holes 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 08:23:02 +1000
Subject: Re: Joseph & sidney, and ser 2/3 wheel hubs

good to read a 'nice' storey from Joseph - hope you and SIdney keep it up
(better than all that c##$@  that has been filling the bandwidth about
clinton

series II hubs - are they the same as ser III  - depends, early series III
had the small studs/wheel nuts like series II but on the later ones they
were larger, and stronger - big nuts about 1 &1/16 AF inches and small ones
about 15/16 inches AF I think (from memory - these might not be the correct
sizes but I think they are the spanners that fit)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 18:43:47 -0400
Subject: Re: The SUN - a newspaper? Come on Frank!

Adrian asks:

>Now where can I buy miniture imperial size allen keys in Denmark?

You don't - send me an address and I can get you a set and send 'em along.

What sizes are you after - under 1/4" OK, or do you need some of the bigger
stuff>

                    Alan R.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 19:21:27 EDT
Subject: Re:  Your dream fleet

In a message dated 9/7/98 3:57:29 PM, "jbroach" wrote:

<<1. IIa 88 SW (my first and therefore overall favorite)
2. IIa 109 2dr (most versatile rover, IMHO)
3. I 86" (my personal favorite, aesthetically)
4. Defender 90 TDi (probably the best out of the box off-roader, ever)
5. Defender 110 NAS V8 (for towing other rovers, etc)
6. Range Rover Classic (Best Off-Road/On Road mix of any vehicle, don't
like the newer bodystyle though)>>
>.
Whoa, am I *hurt*, the trusty 110 relegated to "Chevy Suburban" status as a
*tow vehicle*... yeeouch!

Oh well, since you asked... and my *dream list* fell in a puddle, does that
make it a wet one?

1. IIa 109 exmil soft-top, modernized with coils and a Tdi (daily driver)
2. Ltwt, also modernized (something different looking)
3. D-90, outfitted, but not Mexicanized (for playing around)
4. 110 NAS, (for helping lay out RTV courses, and x-country touring)  
5. Unimog, (for when those pesky IIa 88's get stuck)  ;-) hahaha
6. Yamaha WR400, just the way it is, or preferably attached to any of the
above. 

--pat "I'd better play Powerball to get them" parsons

ps: maybe a RR SWB to put into storage in case I have any daughters in the
*future*; they'll have the coolest antique 4x4 to drive...  ;-)  

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[spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s]	 Return-Path: 
<bill.di@mci2000.com>
[spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s]	 Received: from 
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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 19:29:48 EDT
Subject: Re:  Sheared Brake Nipple

In a message dated 9/7/98 7:26:47 PM, you wrote:

<<*Later, I did try using an easy out in hope of salvaging the old cylinder
but, as suspected, without success.  (Note:  I'm not an expert at using easy
outs.)>>

By the time one becomes a self-confessed expert at using easy outs, one should
think there's something wrong with their bolt-extraction method...

--pat.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 18:38:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Your dream fleet

1)  Defender 130 four door HCPU with eight hole stainless steel dog box
mounted on back
2)  109   IIA Dormobile 
3)  109  IIA PU
4)  Series IIA  88 
5)  Rover sedan
6)  Matchbox Safari 109
7) Bonus points Norton 750 Commando

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 02:37:08 -0700
Subject: Dream Fleet - LR limited

It has changed a lot over the years - but......
I also find it interesting to find out what other people like about
vehicles.

1. 1970 88" IIA - daily driver (I have this one).
2. 404 Unimog - for when the going gets really tough.
3. Ingrid 38, S/V KALAKALA - for really going off the road.
4. Kawasaki Police Special - for heavy traffic.
5. Sunbeam Tiger - one of the few dream cars I really want.
6. WD9 - a great, classic tractor
7. Something a bit larger, REO or Seagrave Fire Engine, perhaps a 6X6.

I know this started with 'dream LR's", but that seems rather limiting. The
common denominator for me is that I need to be able to work on the
vehicles.......which I could. Also, this beats the H**L out of political
comments!

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 01:52:18 +0200
Subject: Re: Dream Fleet - LR limited

1. LR Series III 88" hard top - daily driver
2. LR Series III 109" hard top - for work
3. LR Series III 88" Pickup - around the farm
4. LR Series III 109" Safari bus - for the crowd
5. LR Series III 88" (lightweight?) Cabriolet w/roll bar - for the beach
6. LR Series III 88" - rolling chassis - spare, ready for rebuild

(so far I've got 1,2, &3 - the others will have to wait!

Adrian Redmond

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:54:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Dream Fleet - LR limited 

In message <bulk.18976.19980907164540@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

1. 1972 Series III 88" (Dora)
2. 1994 Discovery 5-spd (Black Watch)
3. 1975 to 1978 101" FC GS
4. 1948 to 1950 Series I 80"
5. Defender 110 Tdi
6. Series IIA 109" Pink Panther

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 03:32:02 -0700
Subject: Landy Blues - Adrian

My, Adrian, how your tune and tone has changed........I still have a copy of
your Landy Blues e-mail.
Seems like your dream of the 6 would push you well over the edge! You must
be over that 15 year itch. Keep the flags flying.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 20:46:43 EDT
Subject: Michelin tubes part number

I just found the info on my Michelin Radial Inner Tubes.

Bought them from:  Liberty Tire & Rubber
Tel: (954) 792-7799
Descripton: Lght Trk 750R16
Part #:  *TR75016*
Price: US$35.00

There didn't seem to be any mystery to them, so hopefully this info will help
at your Michelin dealer...

--pat.

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 17:58:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Dream Fleet - LR limited

1.  1993 NAS 110 (Guildenstern)
2.  1965 88" IIA SW with some mods (Rosencranz--wish I had a Tdi for him)
3.  1997 NAS D90 w/ some body pro (Olivia)
4.  100" Defender conversion (4 door w/ county trim)
5.  101 Forward Control
6.  109" Dormie
7.  RR MkII for when I want something really plush

C

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 15:12:11
Subject: Re: Discovered the source of your outrage

	Your whole problem stems from your use of the totally unnecessary and
ineffective FW hubs.  Loose them and your life will brighten and your Rover
run much better.  What is the 'Sun' anyway, sounds like someones imitation
of the 'Enguirer'.  All the news that fits.
Aloha Peter

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 19:43:24 -0600
Subject: Sidney's first off-road

Well, Sidney got his first taste of off-roading, Montana style, this
weekend. My roomate and his brother wanted to hike to Ashley Lake in the
Mission mountains near Missoula. The only problem was, with forest fires
erupting all the time, we had to make it a day hike instead of camping. The
only way that this was feasible, they assured me, was if we could make it
at least part way up an old logging track by car. Sidney gladly volunteered
for the task. With parabolics flexing and new Trac-Edge clones biting in,
we left the gravel and hit the trail...

Sid didn't have to wait long for his first test. Just past the first gate
someone had piled up a series of what they called "speed bumps." The
ranchers make these to keep everything but their farm equipment out,
they're like 2'-2 1/2' high mounds of dirt and rock across the road/trail.
They said I should probably ramp them. Yeah, right. Well I put it in low
and eased the front wheels over, just waiting for that awful high-centered
scraping sound. The front wheels eased down and ... nothing! The 235/85's
and parabolics had given me just enough clearance, whew! We went for
another couple of miles through deep ruts and mini- boulders with Sid
patiently putting along. After each gate, the road became narrower, steeper
and rougher. Soon they began pointing out rough spots like "That's where we
broke dad's old Dodge." I'll admit that I was a little surprised at what a
31 year old Landy can do given a little patience.

About this time we came to a turnaround, neither had been in a vehicle
beyond this point, but after scouting ahead a little, we decided to give
Sidney a chance. If worst came to worst, we could back down. The trail
threw a slew of steep switchbacks at Sidney, some requiring 1st low, but
none were a match for him. Both agreed that the rover was the best they had
seen for handling this trail, taking us to the very top with nary a wheel
spin. They were also amazed at the comfort level, a testament to the new
parabolics. Aside from a few scrapes and bruises from the constantly
encroaching vegetation, Sidney escaped unscathed with a lot more
"character" to proudly display in the parking lot. We're already planning
another go at it when the first snow comes!

-joseph and sidney
Missoula, MT

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 08:09:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Intermediate Exhaust pipe hanger  109 2 door

Hi Charles,
  I just installed my exhaust on my three door.  I used a SW exhaust
because I hope to install a second fuel tak in the rear.  The pipe
routes outside  the frame under the drivers seat & then back to a
muffler bracket inside the frame by the rear shock mount then back to
the rear bracket just at the rear ahead of the X member.
  Hope that helps.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:14:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Delco Alternators...

Hi Scott,
 I have installed four of the Gm delco alt, in LR's    There are THREE
connections on the alt.  The two  on the clip are one charge light & one
for the fuse block, & then the b+ connection on the back end of the Alt
which goes to the battery.  If you have to make it charge & don't care
about the light.  Then take both wires from clip to the a switchable
Postive side of the fuseblock & the B+ wire directly to the battery.
then with a volt meter check for a running voltage of about 14 volts
across the battery.
I did one just today & for some reason the charge light refused to work
when connected correctly.so I did the a both & will install a volt gage
later.  BTW my Alt. is 120 amp.

Regards,
   Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 23:29:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: I'll take...

I'll keep it short - since I don't play the lottery,

I'd like to convert my IIA88 HT to diesel
(I'll ask all of yous about that later, but if you're getting rid of parts
soon...)

Then I'd like a diesel 101 camper
(with about a 150 gallon capacity - how the hell much would this weigh!!  ;  )

and finally a 200TDi 110 HT pickup

Note: Donations Gratefully Accepted
Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 23:16:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Intermediate Exhaust pipe hanger  109 2 door

Thanks Rob

I will head out there in the morning to see if there is a mount.  If
there is not, how would you recommend attaching the mount?

Cwolfe

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From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 18:25:59 +0200
Subject: Re: Seen this book out yet?

>" Vehicle-dependent EXPEDITION GUIDE, written by
>leading explorer Tom Sheppard."

Excellent.  A "must-have" for anyone who wants to do any long-distance travel.

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:08:10 -0700
Subject: Whose rovers did I see?

I was in Victoria, British Columbia this weekend and saw a dark green SIII
parked down by the Empress Hotel moorage.  Had and "Overdrive by Fairey"
decal on the rear right window on the hard top.  Top: white, body, dark
green (repainted).  very straight.  nice.

Then today, on Vashon Island, I was filling my tank and and a sandstone 109
 towing a boat (?) trailer passed me, headed south.  I was filling (by
braille) a pastel green late IIA 88" (topless right now).  

Nice to see other enthusiasts!

Todd

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:47:41 -0700
Subject: my petrol STILL diesels

ok ok ok 
8:1 head 
Compression very good and consistent
LR spec says time to TDC (90 octane) or 3 deg ATDC (85 octane)

I've replace all my Lucas fiddly bits...
-new plugs (anal retentively gapped)
-dwell 52 deg (points gapped <= .015 inch)
-new plug wires
-timed to various 
-adjusted my tappets (sounded, ran like shit)
-increased my octane (rather unscientifically mixed half tank 87 with half
tank 97)
-advanced timing some more
-REadjusted my tappets (some were waaaaay off, and checked 'em twice -
sounded much better)

here's the current deal:
tank full of 89 octane
timed to 3 deg BTDC
dwell, etc as above
engine pops and farts a bit at idle, but sounds great at speed.  
adequate but not overwhelming power (2nd gear starts no problem)
still occasionally diesels when I turn off ignition  (seems to run in
reverse even sometimes)

My question is what is causing this and how should I best deal with this
problem?

A motorhead (but not roverized) friend of mine swears this is due to carbon
in cylinders.  He said that judicious application of water drops to the
carb intake can "steam clean" the carbon out.   Are there fuel additives
formulated to solve this?

Should I experiment with either higher octane?

Should I advance timing until "pinking" occurs and then retard a bit?

Should I (ga$p, choke) pull the head and decoke?

Should I further refine my tappet adjustment skills (in all fairness, it
just gets easier)?
[Speaking of tappet adjust, how critical is the rotational position of the
crank?  I pull all the plugs, so cranking is not a problem.  I tried the
rule of 9, but it is easier to eyeball the open position and then rotate
another 360 degrees.  Unless I am mistaken, the only consideration is that
the push rod NOT be on the cam at all;  the cam should otherwise be round
except for the portion that lifts the push rod and rocks the rocker and
opens the valve.  OR is the portion of the cam opposite the eccentric part
the critical location and angular deviation from this precise location is
never gonna work?  Should not the
rotate-360-degrees-past-the-open-position-methodology tolerate a degree or
three error either way...?]

A rover buddy told me HIS weber has a fuel cut-off solenoid at the base of
his carb designed to prevent dieselling.   My weber seem to have no such
animal nor an electrical connection for same.

Should I just set the transmission brake and let out the clutch when I turn
off the ignition?

My mechanical intuition says this is a bad thing.  Should I just quit the
anal retentive tuning obsession and be grateful that my wonderful vehicle
runs as well as it does after all these years?

HELP and thanks

Todd

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 01:51:13 -0500
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels 

In message <bulk.24237.19980907233901@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

> here's the current deal:
> still occasionally diesels when I turn off ignition  (seems to run in
> reverse even sometimes)

	My Series III tends to diesel whenever I turn it off.  I'm quite
used to holding the brake and popping the clutch.  The stock carb for 
this engine (8:1) was the Zenith 36IVE.  It had a fuel cut off solinoid
to starve the engine so that it would not diesel.   Needless to say that
carb is long dead and I'm using something else.  So it's a "feature" that I
deal with.

> A motorhead (but not roverized) friend of mine swears this is due to carbon
> in cylinders.  He said that judicious application of water drops to the
> carb intake can "steam clean" the carbon out.   Are there fuel additives
> formulated to solve this?

	Whenever I've pulled the head I haven't had *any* carbon build up,
but it still diesels.  Unleaded leaves a lot less deposits than the leaded.

Ben (finally a LR topic)
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 02:55:20 EDT
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels

Todd,

When tuning an engine, the last thing you should do after everything else is
done, is reset the carb. Could be, the mixture is too lean.

You don't mention if the truck is smoking a little, or, a little too much.
Could be you need a valve job. I had to do this to my 88" - all the guides
were shot - ONE WAS BROKEN! (the valves/seats were okay, but had tons of
carbon on them...new guides/stem seals/lapping made all the difference - am
about to do same to my diesel...)

Could also be an exhaust leak. Check ALL the joints in the exhaust system. If
you have just installed a new system, could be one joint isn't lined up
properly (and another one too much).

Only other thing I could think of...do you have grease on the distributor
shaft, where the points touch it? If not, the points could be closing up.

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 03:00:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Intermediate Exhaust pipe hanger  109 2 door

Rob,

Thanks for the info. Just so happens, the muffler on my 109 is developing
holes. Luckily, being a diesel, it isn't so much of a problem. (ever read how
to find a dead cylinder on a diesel? The manual says to remove the
intake/exhaust manifolds from the engine, AND START IT UP, AND LOOK INTO THE
PORTS!)

There are good points to not having a carb!

I'm still considering installing the NATO type jerry can boxes, though...my
chassis isn't that great.

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 03:10:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Whose rover did I see?

I was in the L.A. harbor yesterday, and was showing a friend of mine, the
marina parking lot where I found an SD-1 that he ended up buying.

In the lot THIS TIME, was a 6 cylinder 109! Marine blue (what's left of the
paint...most of it is worn off), tropical top, used to have a winch (mountings
are still there), has widened 15-inch wheels, a rear-door spare mount on the
bonnet in place of the pie pan, and tan seats. It's currently registered, too,
and has a personalised plate: G____ - 8 ( - the blanks are for the privacy of
its owner). I've never seen it at any shows, but it looks like a runner. Not
sure, but it looks like a Rover engine, too.

Also in the lot, was a MGB, with one of those fiberglass Cobra body kits on it
- BLAH!!!

Charles

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 10:14:20 +0100
Subject: report on our maiden trip.

During the last two weeks we (that is me and my wife and children) 
made a large testdrive with "Rusty". 

I was a bit cautious because I never had a chance to investigate the 
quality of the engine and gearbox before the car was assembled.

We drove through Holland the first two days, camping in Nijmegen and 
Maastricht. The weather was cold and it rained a lot so we decided to 
move further South in the hope of meeting some sunshine on the way.
We drove through Belgium and Luxemburg to the "Saarland" where we 
camped. The weather had not really improved, so we decided to go 
further South still. In France the weather improved and we camped for 
4 days in and near the Jura Mountains. After this we drove on to 
Switzerland where we stopped at a campsite near the lake of 
Neuchatel. A this point I had to add 300 cc of engine oil to keep the 
level near the high mark. 
So far the only thing that went wrong with the car was a short 
circuit in the wiring which made a fuse blow. A 30 minute repair and 
that was it.
The car was a lot quieter than the car we drove last year. This is 
probably because of the combination of an overdrive and 7.5x16 tires 
which helped to keep the revs down when driving at highways.

After our stay at the lake we took to the alps and drove over the 
2500 metres high alpine pass to the Fierwaldstatten lake. It was a 
wonderful tour made more impressive by the driving in good weather 
with the softtop removed. 
Again the car performed flawlessly.

After this we drove back to Holland in four days, camping and 
sighseeing on the way. The last day was a bit of a chore driving for 
6 hours in the rain.

All in all it was a very good experience with a lot of nature, 
wildlife, mountains, camping, mountain walking, sightseeing etc. The 
car performed well during this 2500 km trip, and used only 1 litre of 
oil. The rear diff started making funny noises when taking slow 
sharp turns with the engine pulling. So I may have a little work left 
there. 

 

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 11:27:28 +0200
Subject: Re: my petrol STILL diesels

> My question is what is causing this and how should I best deal with this
> problem?

I have had the same problem, the solution was to get a lower idle rpm. 500 rpm
will do the job and never diesels again.

> Should I experiment with either higher octane?

I've used 98, but it is no solution. My LR was dieseling backwards on 98!

> Should I advance timing until "pinking" occurs and then retard a bit?

Don't think so.

> Should I (ga$p, choke) pull the head and decoke?

A temperay solution.

> Should I further refine my tappet adjustment skills (in all fairness, it
> just gets easier)?

Nope.

> Should I just set the transmission brake and let out the clutch when I turn
> off the ignition?

Or hit the brakes.

Joost

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 10:50:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Dream Fleet - LR limited

> 3. 1975 to 1978 101" FC GS
> 4. 1948 to 1950 Series I 80"
> 5. Defender 110 Tdi
> 6. Series IIA 109" Pink Panther

1. 1972 Series III 109" Safari (Just rebuilt with with galvanised chassis)
2. 1963 IIa 88" (My son thinks its his!)
3. 1963 IIa 88" Electric powered (Next project see:
http://www.wilde-evolutions.com/photos_rover.htm)
4. 1972-78 FC101 REME service vehicle
5. 1972-78 FC101 ambulance
6. 1948 Series I

Suprisingly my beloved better half is very keen on the Electric Landy idea, so
that project should start early next year after some house decorating and 
various
garden jobs have been completed.
Nos 4,5,6 are still dreams, but this time last year a galvanised chassis for the
109 was a dream, so who knows?

 Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 06:03:13 EDT
Subject: LR bits and pieces was Re: The SUrgh

In a message dated 07/09/98 23:35:02 BST, you write:

 >Now where can I buy miniture imperial size allen keys in Denmark?
 You don't - send me an address and I can get you a set and send 'em along.
 
 What sizes are you after - under 1/4" OK, or do you need some of the bigger
 stuff>
  >>
Adrian,
if Alan's sending those then fair enough. but it reminded me, if there is
aomething you want that will fit in hand luggage let me know before Marj and I
come over in October.
We've definitely decided to fly now..

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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