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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 06:48:44 -0500
Subject: Timing - Does this sound abput right?

Static timed it
Started it up and warmed it up, tweaked carb and adjusted idle 
Checked dynamic timing and it was about 3 degrees
Checked dwell angle, 56 degrees and rock steady
Timed at idle by ear then checked timing.  It looked to be about 9 - 10
degrees (ballpark)  before TDC
Readjusted idle and fine tuned idle mixture
Does that ( 9 - 10 degrees) jive with your collective experiences?

Cwolfe

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 03 Sep 1998 14:13:50 +0200
Subject: Re: Timing - Does this sound abput right?

"Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> writes:

> Timed at idle by ear then checked timing.  It looked to be about 9 - 10

:-) I usually end up doing it this way too.

> degrees (ballpark)  before TDC
> Readjusted idle and fine tuned idle mixture
> Does that ( 9 - 10 degrees) jive with your collective experiences?

I don't know what engine you have, but on my 2.25 (5 main bearing) petrol
I usually end up around there as well. Maybe a tad earlier, up to
12 degrees, but it seems to vary quite a bit. Oh, and I'm using
95 octane fuel.

Sounds good to me.

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thraser@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:24:04 +0100
Subject: Oil Leak (oh god here we go......)

Since Saturday my Series III has been sitting in one place on my once
pristine drive (not!). There is new oil on the old stuff (left there years
ago by my wifes old Hyundai Pony (Binky) and a minor aberration on my part,
a Montego!), anyway, the oil seems to be dripping (not a lot mind) from the
propshaft, where it leaves the gearbox gubbins, and around the gearbox,
transfer.

Anyway, before I start getting too worried, is this normal?! I'm just a bit
worried, 'cos it's been 3 years since I drove a manual gearbox, and the
clutch and gearstick are conspiring against me - why is there no discernible
'clunk' to my gear selection!!!! Reverse at 15mph is not good as I
understand, but it seems my arm thinks it is first gear! Soon get it right I
hope! My first offroad foray with her (nicknamed 'The Rancor') is on the
13th (oh dear) and we're going greenlaning on the 20th, but it may be a tad
embarrassing if I can't drive her properly (much driving around the estate
and stopping is in order!) oh, and getting used to NO power steering!

Still she's a great beast to drive (when I eventually wind her up into
4th!) - wouldn't swap her for anything (except maybe the same with an auto
box tee hee). Brief history, she belonged to the 31st Signals, has a
salisbury diff and zenith carb. Engine is very quiet for an LR! Only 4300
miles on the clock......

Also, as this is a British car, why on earth is the indicator stick on the
&*^&* right?! Very odd, in the UK I thought only Japanese cars were like
that!

Neil

SIII '78 2.25 Petrol LWB Canvas - BNH 449S Salisbury Diff. Zenith Carb 'The
Rancor'
Ford Explorer 4.0i '98 NIB 4318 - Comfortable and Powerful!

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 10:01:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Leak (oh god here we go......)

Is there a problem here?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 07:54:55 -0500
Subject: No oil in swivel (oil Vs. grease again?)

Are we heading again to the infamous thread OIL vs GREASE?

AGAIN?

No, no, I must have read wrong. Ignore me please.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

>>I once saw an 88's front bearings sieze to it's spindle because the guy
>was in a hurry and didn't check fluids.  The spindle resavor was empty
>and the front wheel bearings were not packed in grease.  I understand
>that he had to replace a passle of parts on that side.
>I've seen several posts regarding greasing the wheel bearings on a Series
>Land Rover, and I find them rather puzzling.  While the shop manual
>recommends coating new wheel bearings in grease when you first install
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
>hubs in 1974, and have been careful to run the vehicle with the hubs locked
>in about half the time.

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 10:43:23 -0400
Subject: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket

Nate >NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

>Anyone used the LR Supermarket aftermarket exhaust manifold?  Any problems
>with aftermarket exhaust manifolds in general?

I bought a BearMach exhaust manifold from DAP five or so years ago for
$49...then spent that much and more getting it "aluminized" so it wouldn't
rust.  Though the aluminizing coating is/has flaked off, the maifold is
still sound.  Pat mentioned the "Jet-Hot" coating...if you've got the time
and the bucks, it's a superior coating to simple aluminizing

At that time, Bruce cautioned me against overtightening the manifold bolts.
 he said that was the main cause of the old style "all-in-one" gasket
failure as well as cracked manifolds in general. 

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 10:43:21 -0400
Subject: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket

Nate >NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

>Anyone used the LR Supermarket aftermarket exhaust manifold?  Any problems
>with aftermarket exhaust manifolds in general?

I bought a BearMach exhaust manifold from DAP five or so years ago for
$49...then spent that much and more getting it "aluminized" so it wouldn't
rust.  Though the aluminizing coating is/has flaked off, the maifold is
still sound.  Pat mentioned the "Jet-Hot" coating...if you've got the time
and the bucks, it's a superior coating to simple aluminizing

At that time, Bruce cautioned me against overtightening the manifold bolts.
 he said that was the main cause of the old style "all-in-one" gasket
failure as well as cracked manifolds in general. 

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:46:54 +0100
Subject: Re[2]: Bronze Greens 

\that's *Mrs.* White, in the parlor with Colonel Mustard, and the candlestick...

OK., Dave - lower the tone of the entire group..........

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:46:53 +0100
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

\'ve got one of these...it's a WWI or WWII Brit Army surplus trench
\digging
t\ool.  Certainly could hurt someone with it, but frankly, I'd rather

Some of the special forces reckon these are teh best close in fightingtool bar 
none. Sharpen hte edges and you could dice a bear in seconds. The wound 
cavities are horrendous. No way you can _avoid_ hitting vital arteries.......

\across one.  Allright, I'd also use it to beat the crap out of some punk
\that chose
\to paint his name on the outcroppings of my favorite hillsides...

Like that girl called 'Holly Wood'?

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:26:16 -0400 
Subject: RE: MSDS for Waxoyl

Point your browser to :

http://msds.pdc.cornell.edu/msds/hazcom/202/50977.txt

very interesting...
	Think I'll mix a batch of my own...

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 17:58:25 +0200
Subject: Rust proofing manifolds

I have had lots of steel/iron parts metalised (sprayed with moulton zinc
coating) - but I have never tried to metalise a manifold - though the
idea is interesting?

Seeing as we have so many chemists and physicists on this list - is
there anyone who can opine on the feasibility/advisability of coating
one's manifold with zinc? (Not the mating faces of course)

What's the lowdown on metalised iron when running hot? Will this gas the
passengers or am I being silly?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:02:29 +0400 (EET DST)
Subject: Crashed into something

Hi folks,

[spamkill:  blah input: %s]	 Had to sell my trusty Niva to make money for a 
one year visit

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 09:08:40 -0700
Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:06:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing

>In regards to timinig, which is advance and which is retard.  To my
mind, advance would be firing that occurs at increasing degrees before
top dead center.  Retard would be closer and closer to TDC.  Is this
correct?

Advancing the timing causes the ignition to fire sooner, retarding the
ignition causes it to fire later.  In the case of the Land Rover engine,
advancing the timing moves the timing mark counterclockwise, retarding
the ignition moves the mark clockwise.  If the ignition is set to 3
degrees after top dead center, advancing the ignition will move the mark
back toward TDC, retarding it will move it farther away clockwise from
TDC.  According to the owners and shop manuals, I am not aware of any
timing setting for this engine that is actually before TDC.  Depending
on the setup of your engine and the fuel you are using, some ignition
settings in the book call for the mark to be at TDC.  Most of the
settings, however, are for 3 degrees after TDC up to 6 degrees after
TDC.  I'm not saying you should never set your timing before TDC, just
that I've not seen such a setting described anywhere.  Most fuels would
give you pretty severe engine knock with a before TDC setting.  I'm
talking about the 2.25 Rover petrol engine here: I don't know about
other engines.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: PAUL HANSON <HANSONPA@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:29:59 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Hard Top, anyone?

I have decided to go soft top!  I have a PERFECT HT for a 88 ser LR.  It is
bronze green/limestone with new alpines, sliding side windows and glass sun
roof.  It is really a D90 "clone"...dark grey carpeted interior and
interior lights to boot!  The rear door is also "as new" with a HD spare
tire mount! Call or e-mail if interested.  $1K for all!
	Paul Hanson
	Milwaukee area

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 09:49:17 -0700
Subject: Manifold coatings

In regards to coating your manifolds, another option would be to get them 
ceramic coated. A company called Jet Hot is famous in N.America for doing 
exactly 
this. Their coated manifolds are clean, durable, and even better, the ceramic 
coating acts as an insulating agent and increases the thermal efficiencey of 
the 
manifolds. Prices vary, and the last quote I saw was about $150 us to do a PAIR 
of headers for a V8. How the $ compares to getting a zinc coating I don't know, 
but it gives you another option anyway.

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:03:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Crashed into something

Wow!

Just goes to show what an old Landy can do.

Congratulations on surviving and kudos on maintaining a good Rover!

               ajr

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:05:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Rust proofing manifolds

If you zinc coat your manifold, you'll no longer be able to cook on it.
A little iron in the diet doesn't hurt, and who cares if the manifold is 
rusty, except for those owners of "trailer queens". One drive through a 
bog and everything gets coated with muck anyway.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 20:06:51 +0400 (EET DST)
Subject: Re: Y'all come see us, now!! LROs in america 

By whatever fate I don't know, like all recently moving roverites
on this list, I'll be going to Georgia, and specifically Atlanta. 
Thanks for the offer John, I'll surely drop by as soon as I settle. 
I urgently need first-hand info on which part of the town to
rent a house. Safety, distance to Gatech, cost, quietness and view
are my primary considerations and in this order. Intersection
of I-75 with Chattahoochee looks like a nice place on the map :)
Personal mails from any knowledgeable roverite will be appreciated.

There is another thing that I want to ask to the US population on
this list. Since buying a decent series rover in the US is out of
question, ashamed to say this, no flames pleeeeaaase, I'll have
to buy a J**p, or something similar in the 2500-3000 dollar range.
The reason I want a 4WD is not off-roading (any costly repair is
beyond my tight budget). I want to drive North into New England 
and Canada, around X-mas and will feel much more comfortable in a 4WD. 
Can I find any DEPENDABLE CJ or B*@*co or Bl*@*r in this price
range? At the risk of even more flames, another option might be  
a Su**ki Sa*@!ai. I think Sa*!@ais are abundant in the US with
correspondingly lower prices. 

Clearly, I won't be able to rent a place with a closed garage. Do 
car thieves have the same appetite for these wrecks as with shiny
new sports cars? Does a hardtop or ragtop make any difference? 
Thanx in advance for any info.

Semih Bingol
74 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 12:04:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing

On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Faure, Marin wrote:

> TDC.  According to the owners and shop manuals, I am not aware of any
> timing setting for this engine that is actually before TDC.  Depending

Are you only looking at the Series III manuals?  The NADA series IIIs had
a distributor that was set to have very retarded timing at idle.  The
later IIAs may have done that too.  It is an emissions thing.  Earlier
engines called for more advanced idle timnings.  The marks on my IIA's
flywheel are TDC, 3BTDC and 6BTDC.  I generally run 8 or 10 degrees before
TDC.  That is with 87 (R+M)/2 octane gas.  If I spring for high-test
gasoline, I can push it to about 12 degrees before it pings.

David

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 10:15:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Y'all come see us, now!! LROs in america 

 A word f caution regarding x-mas time trips through Canada. 1) The vehicle 
MUST be a hard top, and MUST have a fully functional heater. 2) Don't count on 
4WD 
being able to get you through anything: you'll need snow tires for sure, and 
tire chains might be a good idea for long trips 3) Do be aware that a highway 
breakdown is a MAJOR problem here in the winter. If you conk out, and the temp 
is -20 C or lower, You'd better be equipped to hike a lon way. I'm assuming 
from 
the rest of your trip descriptionthat you would be driving i eastern Canada. 
The highway stretches there are generally shorter than in the praries, but you 
could potentially still have a 20-30 km hike to the nearest (visible) house 
even! If you have friends/relatives in the area, they should be able to give 
you a 
fullrun-down on what you'll need to travel safely in the winter. On a better 
note, the scenery is terrific, and it really is worth all the effort to go 
winter 
touring. If you do come farther West, keep in touch, and I'll be glad to help 
you out throught the western and mountain sections of your trip.

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:17:03 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC.  (clubs)

Baseball bats are low caliber.

Handles from a removable handle pick axe are low caliber.

Hand cranks from Series Land Rovers are low caliber.

High Lift jack handles are low caliber.

Anything less than .400 bore is low caliber.  (Thank you Zack.)

Tennis balls, fired out of a potato cannon, are not low caliber, but are
not particularly lethal either.

During my service in Vietnam I frequently had occasion to drive a Dodge 4X4
crackerbox ambulance.  The resident armament in this thing was an 1897 Model
Winchester 12 gauge pump shotgun loaded with OO buckshot.  The sight of this
WW1 issue relic and the sound of its action being worked were generally
enough to convince most potential troublemakers that they had better things
to do elsewhere.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover Dormobile (slower than a tactical ambulance)
Denver

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From: RWilli4013@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:56:07 EDT
Subject: unsubscribe

please tell me how to unsubscribe!

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:03:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Manifold coatings

A company called Devcon makes brushable ceramic - don't have any further
info here - the brochure is at home - let me know if any of you want more
info - or check the web. Cheers  -  Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 13:18:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing

I think you are mistaken.  Although, for from an expert I understand
that most timing is before TDC to account for the delay in ignition so
that actual expansion of the gas from ignition occurs ideally just a
derivitive past the actual TDC.  Here is where it gets fuzzy . . . I
think increasing octane delays ignition but allows for a smoother
expansion, hence increasing the degree of advance.  I am sure there are
folks out there with more details regarding the mechanics of ignition
and the effects of varying octane.

cwolfe

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 12:29:18 -0700
Subject: Re: No oil in swivel (oil Vs. grease again?)

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:
> Are we heading again to the infamous thread OIL vs GREASE?
> AGAIN?
> No, no, I must have read wrong. Ignore me please.

The reason grease was brought up was because while I was off road, I had
a breakdown and lost my swivelball seal and dropped the lower swivel
pin, and hence didn't have much oil in the swivelball. TeriAnn was
saying that the bearing should be greased until I could get oil to stay
in. I didn't mean to restart an old thread.

Jim Hall

Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 11:34:39 -0700
Subject: Help With Gears

I tried to send this yesterday, But I don't think my account was set up: If 
you've recieved two copies, my apologies. I'm looking for any information on 
how to 
get lower gears for a S1 Rover with HD axles. As I understand the early HD 
models had ENV axles, and my current axle gears sport ENV part numbers. I'm 
looking 
for a full set of ring&pinion(crown&pinion) gears with ratio's lower than the 
factory 4.7:1 ratios. From reading I believe that ratio's of 5.26:1 and 5.57:1 
were available on some of the one tons / military models(109" air portables) / 
forward control models, but there may be other ratios as well. I have 
additionally heard a rumor that an aftermarket company in the UK is 
manufacturing a 6.125 ratio set for trialling, but I can't find any 
documentation about 
them. I live in western Canada and my Rover is highly modified for all season 
expedition type four wheeling and  I need the altered gearsets as much for 
on-road use as for off-road traction. If anyone has any info on low ratio axle 
gear sets for the early Rovers, or has any further suggestions(eg: different 
transfer case/gears) please contact me back. My direct e-mail is 
risely@mailexcite.com. If you're curious about the modifications to my Rover, 
the complete 
truck is documented on my club home page at 
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1236 , and is listed under the 'Author's 
Rig' heading. Thanx for any info on 
the gears, or feedback on the home page.
 C.Risely
 DeWinton
 Alberta 
 Canada

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:34:53 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC.  (clubs)

You go Donohue...
The wife has her personal shotgun, behind the door in the bedroom for defense.
The thing has one of those extended magazines, (anti-Politically Correct) and
instructions to rack a shell or two onto the floor so the intruder has
knowledge that things are ready to go here.  This also gives me either a
chance to identify myself or to get the hell out of the way.  She thinks the
noise of the action alone will get just about anybody out of the way.  When
she took instruction with the City Police (just for fun) she didn't miss any
out of five milk jugs at 24 yards with slugs. 
Anybody who messes with that girl, by breaking into the house and not leaving,
picked a particularly complex method of suicide. 

Zack Arbios

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:44:31 -0400 
Subject: RE: PTT ETC.  (clubs)

Just make sure that if your bedroom is on the second floor, the intruder has
at least one foot on the stairs going up.  If not, the possibility of a
lawsuit exists.  Yes, you would probably win the lawsuit, but why go through
the aggravation.

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:50:53 +0100
Subject: VIN Numbers

As I recall, people were having trouble with the old Series Chassis numbers
when entering a certain site?

Here are the 'extra' bits of your chassis numbers!

prefix    Vin Prefix            Vehicle
901        LBAAHIAA        88 Regular
951        LBBAHIAA        88 Half Ton
921        LBABHIAA        88 Station Wagon
931        LBCMHIAA        109 Station Wagon
911        LBCAHIAA        109 Long
246        LBDAHIAA        109 One Ton

Regards

Neil.

PS. Is everyone getting mail? I asked about an oil leak, but no-one
answered?

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From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:53:42 -0400
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

Zack wrote:
>and instructions to rack a shell or two onto the floor so the intruder has
>knowledge that things are ready to go here.

Zack,

That can be a fatal mistake to rack a few onto the floor to let the
intruder know you're ready.  It, also, let's the scum know exactly where
you are while you may not know where he is.  The approved solution is not
to shuck one into the chamber until you know where the scumbag is located
and you're ready to either fire or hold him at bay.  Also, be prepared when
you shoot to take a life, because that's what the intruder is prepared to
do.   Never, never give up the tactical advantage.  There's a BIG
difference between a range or practical course and an actual combat
situation (which an intruder is).

Regards,
Ray Burton

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 11:53:41 -0700
Subject: Re: VIN Numbers

 
--
Yes Neil, we are geting you e-mail. In regards to VIN numbers and the 'problem 
site' do you have any suggestions for the pre-prefix models? ie: I have an 80" 
model (originally anyway) , my VIN is way too short, but as far as I know, 
there never were any prefix sets for the series one's. Suggestions?
Chris

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:54:14 EDT
Subject: Re: The 90 I'm about to buy

In a message dated 03/09/98 00:18:23 BST, you write:

<< It does have *Coil* springs, right? If not it could be some type of
Stage-1.
 Measure the actual wheelbase, hub-center-to-hub-center to see if it is an 88
 coil-sprunc conversion or a 90 chassis. (I understand that Stage 1 88's are
 less wheelbase than a 90 which is 92.something, right?) >>
A Ninety front end conversion has been available in the UK for many years...
if it's on leaves, or even coils, it could be a ser 111 with the conversion
and a coil chassis.
Measuring is a good  idea but, in all honesty, it sounds dubious. I'd take my
money elsewhere......

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:54:25 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 00:21:39 BST, you write:

<<  where you parked the 110, it may be winch-less  ;-)  haha...
  >>
that's like a joke right??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:54:12 EDT
Subject: Re: The 90 I'm about to buy

In a message dated 03/09/98 00:18:23 BST, you write:

<< It does have *Coil* springs, right? If not it could be some type of
Stage-1.
 Measure the actual wheelbase, hub-center-to-hub-center to see if it is an 88
 coil-sprunc conversion or a 90 chassis. (I understand that Stage 1 88's are
 less wheelbase than a 90 which is 92.something, right?) >>
A Ninety front end conversion has been available in the UK for many years...
if it's on leaves, or even coils, it could be a ser 111 with the conversion
and a coil chassis.
Measuring is a good  idea but, in all honesty, it sounds dubious. I'd take my
money elsewhere......

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:54:31 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 09:46:00 BST, you write:

<< a).Ask for a cap wi' 't neb at 't back.They've
 had 'em in stock for years.They also supply wellies with an extra long
 bit of string so you can take a full stride.
 Glad to be of assistance:-) >>
wi' my ickle leggies I don't need a long bit of string, but my tall mate isn't
daft, he saves string at Christmas and then cuts the stuff he gets at the shop
and joins it togrether with the bit. 
One year he only tied one end on and couldn't walk at all. Did we laugh.
Thank you Mike, do the same for you one day

(REAL soon)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 14:54:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Bronze Greens

In a message dated 03/09/98 15:46:08 BST, you write:

<< OK., Dave - lower the tone of the entire group.......... >>
no no don't encourage him

anon

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 14:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Manifold coatings

> A company called Devcon makes brushable ceramic

Brushable ceramic? What is this... really watery plaster of paris =:) I   
thought
REAL ceramics were something that had to be crystalized (matricized?)
in a pretty controlled environment kinda like silicon chips....

 -Scott  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 21:05:40 +0200
Subject: Re: No oil in swivel (oil Vs. grease again?)

Great thread this oil versus grease business - there's something I
cannot understand...

If you can't use grease (I do) in the hub because it thins and runs out
- how come you can use oil from the swivel housing - doesn't that run
out too?

And where doies the grease run? If it runs into the swivel housing, hou
does the oil from the swivel housing which should lubricate the hub
instead of grease, run into the hub if it's most likely to run the other
way - like the grease.

And if it grease doesn't run into the swivel housing, and not out od the
hub cap, then the only place left - if it absolutly has to run out to
satisfy the reason for not using it in the first place - must be the
brake drum - and that's no place for oil or grease - ask me - I spent an
evening de-oiling my brakes last week.

If it was intended that oil from the swivel would run into the hub and
lubricate it, then why is there a seal washer to prevent it doing so.?

My guess, based upon the construction of the axle and the instructions
in the manual is this.

The differential and axlebearings are lubricated with gear oil, which
must not leave the axle housing.

The swivel ball housing and bearings, swivel pin and railco bush, and
the universal joint, bearings and swivel ball itself, are lubricated
with oil, which should remain in the swivel housing, emerging neither
into the exal or the hub.

The hub and bearings should be packed with grease, which should not
leave the hub - hence the seals at each end of the hub.

The free-wheel hubs - if fitted - should be lubricated according to the
design requirements and manufacturers instructions. I have AVM's - the
book says "Do not lubricate"

The brake drum should be lubricated with air - nothing else.

When my hub was loose and oil entered the brake drum area through the
hub, the AVM's were also swimming in oil. When I removed the AVM's a
week later to check - the brake drum was dry, the hub was still full of
grease, and the AVM's were dry as a bone.

Now I know that some users say that the SIII swivels, like the D90's (at
least here in denmark) should be packed with grease (lasts a lifetime) -
this may be OK, it may even be better, but it has nothing to do with
lubricant - whatever the type - moving from where it should be, to where
it should not.

It is a misunderstanding to view grease as a thick, sticky lubricant -
when it is warm, it flows around the necessary parts. If it is too thick
- it will be like mixing a cake in the blender - you have to add fluid,
or else you have to open the lid and scarpe the mix down to reach the
blade again - otherwise it won't "lubricate" the tool.

But by being thicker, grease had less tendency to absorb water and
emulsify with the wider shifts in temperature. It is ok as a lubricant -
to minimise friction and thus avoid heat being generated by moving
parts, but it is a lousy coolant - grease conducts heat less well than
oil. The task of the coolant is to conduct heat away from the hot areas,
towards the cool areas. Grease does not absorb heat well, neither - when
hot, does it give the heat up easily.

But coolant isn't the issue - the issue is lubrication to avoid friction
- which is why grease is probably a better choice for all parts which,
if lubricated, do not generate excess heat.

Having said that - I drained my swivels before changing the seals and
balls (which were badly etched and rusted) and the hosuing was still
half full with oil. The hubs had not been dismantled either since 1990,
and they were full of grease - thick and brown, not oily, and not
creamy. In the preceding 8 years, with over 150,000 km driving, I had
retained my lubricants in the correct chambers and the bearings were all
in good enough condition to use again. (Timkin originals).

However the differential, which needed new bearings, had SKF (swedish)
bearings fitted, implying that they were not originals - the only big
mechanical overhaul since the cars birth in 1979 was in 1990, so these
only held 8 years. Ironically, although i drive mostly on-road, high
ratio, rear wheel 2WD, the rear diff bearings were spotlæess, whilst the
front diff bearings were shoddy. This could be component quality, or it
could be some hitherto unexplained wear phenomena - I dunno.

The LR manual says that hub bearings must be packed with grease. Other
members here have said that they pack the hub (when on the axle) to 50%
capacity. I follow that route - and clean, dry and repack every time I
service - which is seldom.

Good grease must be kept dry and not under pressure (in a gun) - keep
the lid on the grease tin, to avoid water (I know I said it did not
absorb, but over many monnths in a damp garage...) and dead lies, moths,
wires from the wire brush, welding and grinding sparks and workshop crud
- non of which is pleasent for an expensive bearing.

Thats my short contribution to the grease/oil debate. Of course I could
be wrong, I have muddled myself towards this approach...

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 21:08:32 +0200
Subject: Wellie string

Heh-up,

The wellie string is there for a reason - to hang around your neck when
walking, thus allowing you to take really long strides.

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:17:27 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC.  (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 19:35:53 BST, you write:

<< Anybody who messes with that girl, by breaking into the house and not
leaving,
 picked a particularly complex method of suicide. 
  >>
and if she says get rid of the Rover, we're having a J**p, you'll argue
against??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:17:36 EDT
Subject: Re: VIN Numbers

In a message dated 03/09/98 19:49:13 BST, you write:

<< . Is everyone getting mail? I asked about an oil leak, but no-one
 answered? >>

Neil,
I#ve found later that I've missed odd ones.
I also sent a thanks for the funny you sent personal, and it came back that
you don;t exist (nice feeling (g) )
so that's one you didn't get...

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 20:27:27 +0100
Subject: Re: VIN Numbers

thanks,

Glad you liked it!

Neil

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:26:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Wellie string

In a message dated 03/09/98 20:09:22 BST, you write:

 The wellie string is there for a reason - to hang around your neck when
 walking, thus allowing you to take really long strides.
  >>
Hang on Adrian, let's see if I've got this correct.

I put oil in the right wellie and grease in the left.. or should that
be.......

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 21:30:05 +0200
Subject: Re: Wellie string

Something like that frank!

Adrian Redmond

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 16:00:03 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 98-09-03 14:55:23 EDT, you write:

 That can be a fatal mistake to rack a few onto the floor to let the
 intruder know you're ready.  It, also, let's the scum know exactly where
 you are while you may not know where he is.   >>

I don't know Ray.  I gotta go with Zack on this one.  If someone is in my
house at 02:30, they will pretty much know where to find me.  Best to let them
know you're aware and armed.  Rack the gun then move silently to cover and
concealment.  A burglar will run, a druggie will stumble into your line of
fire, and an assassin would already have you dead.

If possible, line up so your target is directly in front of a large picture
window.  It cuts down on clean-up time when you blow his head out the window
instead of on your china closet.

Enzo

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From: "Stude, Herman L." <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 15:05:12 -0500
Subject: major swivel pin leak

Dear All;

So I went outside to take the SIII to lunch and I noticed a puddle
(about a 12" circle) of 90wt by the right side front wheel.

Last night I drained and filled the swivel pins, the usual amount of
milky (watery) oil drained out, pumped in some fresh stuff, etc.

I was leaking about a dozen drops every few days, but this puddle thing
looks serious.  I've got gaiters fitted so I can't examine things
without removing the fully saturated leathers.

Question:  Is the seal blown, must I rebuild immediately, do I fill it
back up and see how long it lasts?

Thanks in advance for the collective wisdom!!!

Herman

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 22:10:10 +0200
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

Not wishing to be politically correct, and admitting that I'm as big an
off-topic offender as anyone else here, but shouldn't we KILL this
thread - or at least banish it to -

alt.screwbrady.bang
alt.leisure.executions
alt.allamericantriggerhappytheyrenottakingmypiece.sothere

Land Rover owners are supposed to be fun and peaceloving, hairy chinned,
wellie wearing, bear drinking anoraks, whose voilent extremes reach no
further than throwing a warped cylinder head through a split screen. All
this talk of stalking burglers Clint Eastwood style is a tad worrying.

Discrete use of grease-guns, air pistols, plasma torches, compressed air
staplers, waxoyl powered flame throwers and xylene canisters - or
throwing your well oiled freewheel hubs at their nuts is one thing -
joining the Toyota Vigilantes with the roof mounted Hellas and a
moderate amoury in the trunk is another.

Peace to all me eh?

:-)

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 22:18:40 +0200
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

I once thought I might have this problem (turned out to be the hubs, but
that's an old story) so i also gave some thought to methods of
detection.

The objective is to find out where the oil is getting out.

Fill her up again. Take an air pistol to a suitable orifice on the
swivel housing (could be a drain plug?) and pressurise!

Maybe remove the gaiter first (from the axle side) so you can see the
damage. Possibly a good idea to jack up the front end, so both wheels
are off the ground, then SWMBO can sit in the cab and wiggle the
steering whilst you pressurise your balls.

If it's leakin' - what goes in, must come out.

Remember to chock up the car on axle stands before lying underneath with
the airline eh?

I would suspect the following (in order of reported likelihood) -

1.
Seal between swivel housing and axle stump/brak backplate

2.
Bottom steering arm pinion bolts

3.
Seal on swivel ball.

If the gaiter is full of oil, the vibes suggest the seal - changing this
may be a good start too. Are the swivel housings new - did they get
cleaned and scraped of rust and crud before refitting? Are all the 6
1/4" threaded holes which hold the seal retaining ring and gaiter ring
OK (they are often weak) Is the seal the right way round? Are your balls
new?

One last silly idea - but if the gaiters are full of oil - are we sure
that it's swivel housing ounl and not axle housing oil? I know this is
less liekly but???

Not been there yet, not done that yet, hoping to avoid buying the
t-shirt...

Good luck..

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 21:02:48 +0100
Subject: Re: The 90 I'm about to buy

No sutch thing as a stage 1 swb v8 I am afraid. If the wheelbase is
92.7inches it it a 90 if it is less then it is some sort of Hybrid.

-- 
andy Smith

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 16:14 -0500
Subject: RE: PTT ETC. (clubs)

> If possible, line up so your target is directly in front of a large   
picture
> window.  It cuts down on clean-up time when you blow his head out the   
window
> instead of on your china closet.

I don't know why I'm sharing this with you guys... I had a roomate that   
loaded
his shotgun slug, shot, slug, shot, etc... gave him one warning shot and   
a good
spread after that... and yes, he did get to use the slug once... another   
one of
my roomates pissed off some KA's who lived in the same apartment   
complex...

Of course there was no blood to clean up, just the pool that our freind   
left
before running away =:)

 -Scott

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 14:52:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket

I would like to get in on this conversation.  I just bought a weber 2
barrel and intake manifold to install on my 2.25 l engine.  I have been
trying to source headers to reduce back pressure on the exhaust.  It
sounds like you guys know where to get more than one type.  Any
suggestions?

Thanks,
Kirk Hillman

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From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 14:00:18 -0700
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

 
--
Adrian wrote shouldn't we kill this topic...

2 points 
1: the topic will probably kill itself via gangrane from shooting itself in the 
foot.
2: If you have that much of a violence/breakin problem where you are, maybe 
it's time to move somewhere safer-like maybe a de-militarized zone.

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 23:14:34 +0200
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

Don't forget I added a :-)

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 17:54:04 -0400
Subject: New 2,25 engine

Steve, the oil cooler fittings can simply be plugged. I would suggest
however that you simply remove the sp[acer between the oil filter housing
and the block, use the screws from your old engine. The sump hole can be
plugged, however I think that the thread is 9/16' BSF ( it was on early
engines ) the same trhead as a ser 1 and 2 wheel stud. Again it may be
simpler tpo just change the sump from your old engine. Oil coolers are a
waste of time unless you live in a high ambient temperature area.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 98 17:07:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Y'all come see us, now!! LROs in america

Be sure to check out http://www.285sucks.com for the skinny on Attlanta roads.

You may actually be ablt to pick up a SIIa in that price range. If you have time
to look around you may be supprised.

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI (soon to be Atlanta, GA)
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive lets you get stuck in
       places even more inaccessible.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:09:26 EDT
Subject: Sorry for weapon tangent

OK Adrian, you're right, and I'm sorry for ever starting the gun thing.  I was
just a bit shocked that in order to carry a bat one needed to have a ball to
justify it in some countries and followed that with a comment on what was
legal here.

Hollywood stuff aside, I don't see that being armed and being a polite, fun-
loving, vehicle-fixing, life-in-the-slow-lane type are mutually exclusive.

Maybe things are different in Scandanavia, but I've never seen a bear-drinking
LR owner here.  The bear population is just starting to rise again, so maybe I
just need to give it some time.

Bill

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 98 17:12:01 -0500
Subject: Re: New 2,25 engine

Bill Leacock wrote:
> Steve, the oil cooler fittings can simply be plugged. I would suggest
> however that you simply remove the sp[acer between the oil filter housing
> and the block, use the screws from your old engine. The sump hole can be
> plugged, however I think that the thread is 9/16' BSF ( it was on early
> engines ) the same trhead as a ser 1 and 2 wheel stud. Again it may be
> simpler tpo just change the sump from your old engine. Oil coolers are a
> waste of time unless you live in a high ambient temperature area.

Depending on where you are, Steve (I missed your original post), I'd be 
interested in
those parts. I want to hook my oil cooler back up, but I'm missing the oil 
filter
mount spacer. And trading sumps would save me drilling, and you plugging.

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI (soon to be Atlanta, GA)
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive lets you get stuck in
       places even more inaccessible.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 98 17:16:25 -0500
Subject: Bear Drinking (was Re: Sorry for weapon tangent)

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

snip
> Maybe things are different in Scandanavia, but I've never seen a bear-drinking
> LR owner here.  The bear population is just starting to rise again, so maybe I
> just need to give it some time.

Haven't you heard of Bear Whiz Beer? "It's in the water, that's why it's 
yellow."
;-)

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI (soon to be Atlanta, GA)
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive lets you get stuck in
       places even more inaccessible.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 15:30:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: shotguns etc

1  Seek Cover
2. Attain Target
3. Fire
4. Call Police to remove body

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:31:36 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 21:01:30 BST, you write:

 I don't know Ray.  I gotta go with Zack on this one.  If someone is in my
 house at 02:30, they will pretty much know where to find me.  Best to let
them
 know you're aware and armed.  Rack the gun then move silently to cover and
 concealment.  A burglar will run, a druggie will stumble into your line of
 fire, and an assassin would already have you dead.
  >>
I'm trying to work out how we got to this and from where.......?
It started with a baseball bat....
BTW in the UK if we shoot a burglar we get nicked for murder/attempted, is it
different in the States?
Personally, somebody enters my house illegally I'll cream him and worry about
the consequences later..

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:31:51 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 21:43:13 BST, you write:

<< Land Rover owners are supposed to be fun and peaceloving, hairy chinned,
 wellie wearing, bear drinking anoraks >>
Adrian,
 you just described me!!!!! (forgot to say midget* tho') as long as I can
drink beer not bears........

* ie "small but perfectly formed."

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:31:45 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 21:01:30 BST, you write:

 I don't know Ray.  I gotta go with Zack on this one.  If someone is in my
 house at 02:30, they will pretty much know where to find me.  Best to let
them
 know you're aware and armed.  Rack the gun then move silently to cover and
 concealment.  A burglar will run, a druggie will stumble into your line of
 fire, and an assassin would already have you dead.
  >>
I'm trying to work out how we got to this and from where.......?
It started with a baseball bat....
BTW in the UK if we shoot a burglar we get nicked for murder/attempted, is it
different in the States?
Personally, somebody enters my house illegally I'll cream him and worry about
the consequences later..

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:31:55 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 03/09/98 22:45:43 BST, you write:

<< KA's >>
please explain for us Ukers...

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:31:49 EDT
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

In a message dated 03/09/98 21:04:29 BST, you write:

<<  Is the seal blown, must I rebuild immediately,  >>
answer: rebuild but......

get a seal, remove the retaining ring, slide back. ease the seal out, cut it
and pull it off. Get new seal, cut it and throw away the spring. 
Fit it over the axle, turn the cut to the top, dab some superglue on and fit
it in place. Replace the retaining ring.

This works, honest!!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 17:43:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Series serial numbering

I got a letter from the traceability people in Solihull yesterday.  I am a
bit confused by it.  My Rover's serial number is 244whateverB;  the
information they sent was for 244whatever, with no suffix.  I assume that
the serial numbers are assigned consecutivly, and the suffixes change
whenever the suffix changed, and this didn't cause them to start at
24400000 again?  The reason I ask is that the letter calls it a Series III
109 built may 1964, and then lists the technical info about the vehicle,
getting the wheel base right - 2234 mm.  With that sort of accuracy, I
wondered if they manage to look the wrong vehicle up.

Also, wasn't someone collecting the fascimiles of the production log?  I
will gladly mail or FAX a copy to you.

David/ Mr. sinclair, who doesn't look the worse for having aged two years
overnight

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From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 18:45:38 +0000
Subject: Clutch Problems

I've got the Series One running, but have a problem with the gearbox.

When I start it and go to put it in gear, the gears grind.   I have to
force it into gear, at which time it seems to be disengaged, I can then
let the clutch out and go.  It works great after that, clutch in,
change, clutch out etc.....If I let the clutch out in neutral I can hear
it engage, then I push the clutch in and put it in gear, it disengages
and it's fine.   But if I leave it for more than about ten seconds, it
sticks? and I have to go back to the start and jam it in (lightly of
course)

I know I have to double clutch, but it doesn't seem to help.  Perhaps
I'm doing it wrong.......

Or perhaps there's something in the box itself that's not doing it's
job?

Help before I find some teeth on the ground!!!!!

Cheers, ian

-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

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From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:56:42 -0400
Subject: Pick handles?

Such a bloodthirsty lot!

> Certainly could hurt someone with it, but frankly, I'd rather
>flee than fight

You just want a better vantage point from which to chuckle and watch the other 
guy get stomped -admit it! ;-)

> (being all of 135 lbs but fast on foot...).  Besides, 
>it ain't no match for gunpowder...

Nothing wrong with being compact, IMNSHO.  It was Heinlein who wrote "Never 
scare a little man; he'll kill you."

Worse, one could be poisoned slowly by a little chemist...

Chris

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:20:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

>From the sound of it, any one of several things could be wrong.

1. Clutch pushrod misadjusted/worn
2. Broken/sheared pins in the tube that connects the hydraulic bits to the
release mechanism
3. A dire need for bleeding in the clutch hydraulics
4. worn-out clutch plate

Start with the cheapest first - bleed the hydraulics and adjust the clutch
pushrod.

                    aj"Mr. C's done this before....."r

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 01:38:26 +0200
Subject: Re: Sorry for weapon tangent

My anti-weapons posting was not completly serious - more of a humourous
dig at our trans-atlantic cousins! After all - I did add the :-) So
don't take it too seriously. Anyway - the fun with this list is that
there are so many - interesting - off topic discussions. Thats what
makes us different from the fora where stereos, headlamps and decals are
the only correct topics of conversation.

As a brit I am always being teased about our umbrellas and bowlers (I
don't have one - and I certainly wouldn't drive the rover with them!) so
i guess it's natural that we old-worlders have just as hard a job
understanding the mind-set of a nation which is built on the freedom to
bear arms. (Maybe it would be better to bare arms?)

When in Rome - I say - one has to respect the ways of life of other
nations - but that doesn't mean that you have to agree - and some place
along the line, there will always be somethings about a foreign state's
culture which will never be understood or respected by foreigners.
Selling children for labour in India, Muslims stoning adulters, Rwanda
machetters, french A-tests and british Atomic power are the sort of
thing that spring to mind.

For me it's plain illogical. I find bearing weapons in public and
private (and I don't mean sport or hunting) unpalatable. I don't mean it
should be banned (I have heard the arguments for and against) I just
wish everyone didn't want to do it.

Even the contrast between the UK - where the average bobby performs his
duty without firearms (although there has developed a plethora of
special units in recent decades) and the continent, where police are
armed all the time - is a culture shock for me.

I have a rifle for sport - target shooting. I also hunt. I got my
marksmans certificate in the Army cadets - so I understand the
fascination of the ironmongery. But as to owning a weapon for protection
- that is a strange concept to me.

I see no grey areas on the civilian arms issue - it's black and white -
either / or - a society which accepts armed defence, is the cradle for
armed attack. Bearing arms demands (IMHO) accountability - which is
difficult to expect even with police and military - but at least the
discipline and routine of those environments offers some (I said some)
degree of security.

I heard about small country police districts in the US who are able to
buy surplus military gear - small town sherriffs with Carl Gustav rocket
launchers, helicopters, armoured vehicles and automatic weapons. I guess
it's a "uniform syndrome" each small empire wanting to display its power
to the other, collecting toys which everyone would be better without.

Sorry for the lecture - it's just something i will never resolve my
feelings towards.

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 01:39:37 +0200
Subject: Re: shotguns etc

Russ Wilson wrote:
 
1  Seek Cover
2. Attain Target
3. Fire
4. Call Police to remove body

Adrian replies:

1. Seek cover
2. Call police 
3. Go home and enjoy a good hobby

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 01:45:41 +0200
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

I am not too sure about the idea of Frank's "lazy repair job" but I will
bow to experience - and add a thought - if you have to cut the seal, cut
it at an angle to offer a larger mating surface to glue.

Having said that, you dont have to pull the entire swivel house/ball to
fit it properly - you can just remove the 6 bolts which hold the swivel
onto the axle, pull the whole assembly out, fit the seal, rings and
gaiters on the workbench (actually a lot easier that working on the
floor) and mount the whole jobbie again. I have done this before, and it
makes sealing and setting the bits a lot easier. OK the brake flex hose
has to be slipped - but clamp it tight, and you wont have to bleed more
than the one cylinder.

Next time I do this, i am going to try the rubber military gaiters from
Blanchard's.

Good luck - usual disclaimers!

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:52:39 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: major swivel pin leak

In a message dated 9/3/98 7:35:20 PM, you wrote:

<<get a seal, remove the retaining ring, slide back. ease the seal out, cut it
and pull it off. Get new seal, cut it and throw away the spring. 
Fit it over the axle, turn the cut to the top, dab some superglue on and fit
it in place. Replace the retaining ring.

This works, honest!!!>>

How will the swivels turn after you've super-glued them onto the balls?

Just kidding, I get the concept. I admire the time savings of the cut-it-
method, but am curious about the long way of doing it...

How hard would it be to un-bolt the axle ends? What replacement parts are
required other than a swivel seal and possible a paper gasket for the axle
end?

--pat

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 20:52:48 EDT
Subject: Safari in Botswana? (No Land-Rover content)

Sorry for the non-LR posting, but has anyone on the list traveled to (or lived
in) Botswana recently?  A small group of us is planning on going next spring
and have been corresponding w/ 2 individuals in Maun, Phaquari and No-Name.
Any info about these or other independent participation tented safari
guides/outfitters will be appreciated. E-mail me direct. Thanks

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88 (LR content)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Keith Elliott <landy@ican.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 22:53:20 -0400
Subject: Glass in Safari top

Hi Everyone

   I am going to be starting the process of straightening/painting my tropical 
top (no I'm not going to ask what color/colour I should paint it ;) ) and I 
have 
to replace the sliding side windows on one side. I am wondering how is this 
done? I tried taking the bottom channel off by undoing the 3 bolts but it looks 
like there is an aluminium lip on the outside that is also holding it in?!?!?! 
Is this possible?!?!?!

Thanks

Keith
1961 SII 88"
Ottawa

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:01:27 -0400
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:

> get a seal, remove the retaining ring, slide back. ease the seal out,
> cut it
> and pull it off. Get new seal, cut it and throw away the spring.
> Fit it over the axle, turn the cut to the top, dab some superglue on
> and fit
> it in place. Replace the retaining ring.

I remember replacing the swivel ball seals on a '64 CJ5 using split
seals which were furnished pre-split. This was the standard proceedure
in the factory manual. My memory of a spring is foggy, there may not
have been one. The seal was assembled with the split in the rubber at
the top, the theory being that the swivel is not filled completely so
there shouldn't be oil at the top.

RTV should also work for gluing the split at the top.

In many respects the Jeep was simplier than a LR (not better or worst).
For example the Jeep only had 5 bolts per front fender, and many few
bolts for the floor board. It's interesting comparing where LR
essentially copied Jeep (ex: transfer case layout) and where they
diverged (ex: transfer case shift mechanism).

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 23:20:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Compression Questions

Hi All,

I'm in trouble now: We became a two Rover family last Saturday thanks to
Nate Dunsmore! Here's the question: my son did a compression test on his
new '72 Series III and came up with 145 psi even in cylinders 1-3. Number
4, however, never made it past 30. Tonight, when he removed the head to
check the condition of the pistons, everything looked ship shape. In fact,
all cylinders are holding their own in the famous gas leak down test
(filling the cylinders with petrol and seeing if they leak). Any ideas?
Valves seem to be okay with the exception of a lot of carbon (more than the
others) on #4 intake valve.

Chris Stevens
1969 Series IIa 88" SW

Zack Stevens
1972 Series III 88" SW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 22:40:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Compression Questions

On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Chris Stevens wrote:

> 4, however, never made it past 30. Tonight, when he removed the head to

I presume that you did adjust the valves before pulling the head?  I have
compression readings change by nearly 100psi after the valves were set
right.  
Assuming that you did that, you might have a valve that isnt' closing
properly. That carbon could well do it, or you could have a badly worn
seat.

David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:02:52 -0700
Subject: speedo cable fix

My spedo stopped working the other day. It had been acting up for a
while, so I figured the cable had broken. Today I went to the local auto
parts store and bought a replacement cable. I went home and took mine
out, and sure enough it was busted. The LR cable, probably some stupid
Whitworth size or something, is almost twice the size of the one I
bought. Not wanting to wait a week for a new cable, and having nothing
to lose, I welded the two halves of the cable back together, and ground
it back down to size. I installed it and so far this is the best my
spedo has workedsince I've had the Rover. Yet another reason to buy a 
mig.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 23:40:23 -0600
Subject: Glasgow

1.0 Can anyone out there recommend a Series parts supplier
in Glasgow.  I'll be there next week and want to pick up a
few parts.

2.0 Can anyone out there recommend a Peugeot parts supplier
in Glasgow.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 08:04:07 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: Compression Questions

If cylinder 4 has more carbon than the rest, check the thermostat, it may
be stuck in the open position causing a cooling short around cylinder4.

Piet
> I'm in trouble now: We became a two Rover family last Saturday thanks to
> Nate Dunsmore! Here's the question: my son did a compression test on his
> new '72 Series III and came up with 145 psi even in cylinders 1-3. Number
> 4, however, never made it past 30. Tonight, when he removed the head to
> check the condition of the pistons, everything looked ship shape. In fact,
> all cylinders are holding their own in the famous gas leak down test
> (filling the cylinders with petrol and seeing if they leak). Any ideas?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Valves seem to be okay with the exception of a lot of carbon (more than the
> others) on #4 intake valve.

P.A.H. Fourie   ( pah@saao.ac.za )
South African Astronomical Observatory.
P.O. Box 25 Sutherland 6920 South Africa.
Tel 023 5711135. Fax 023 5711413

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 02:20:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Sorry for weapon tangent(no LR content)

Adrian,

I didn't know that you're a Brit...what's the latest scoop on Red Dwarf? -)

Anyway, contrary to what you see on television on Europe and the UK (working
for British Airways and having a Norwiegan mum, I do spend some time over
there, so I do get to watch TV there (from here, the 'ol C-Band dish helps,
too), the USA isn't quite the "wild west" that Hollywood makes it out to be...

Most states west of the Mississippi - and some east of it - are known as Class
3 firearms states. In these states, a civilian can - provided they pass the 3
month background check, and hand over the required amound of money - own an
honest-to-goodness machine gun, destructive device, silencers, grenades, etc.
HOWEVER - these "toys" are by no means cheap to buy (average price for a
machinegun $5000 - 10,000), thus, they aren't handed out like candy to the
general public, and most of them never see the light of a firing range, due to
their high value, and the fact that they are highly regulated. Law enforcement
agencies in MOST states can purchase these types of weapons, but believe me -
they do have to justify owning them. In fact, it's easier for motion picture
special effects companies to get them, than just about anybody else! (but they
had better be well established in the industry before trying) And, the
ATF/Justice Dept. DOES make random checks on folks that have them.

Semi-autos can be had by the general public, but if you have a criminal
record/mental history/restraining order against you, then you can forget about
buying a gun. Problem here, is that the people doing the checks don't, in some
cases, and if they don't perform them in a given amount of time, then the
purchase is automatically approved! The carrying of any weapons varies from
state, to state...some allow open-carry of a loaded gun without a permit, some
require that the weapon must be un-loaded, and in a locked container at all
times during transport, and this is where another problem rises: people fail
to check - or they don't know where/how to check - what other states'
regulations are, and finding the information, is like pulling teeth.

As for owning a gun for protection - the only way that you can really
understand the "reasoning" for this, would have been to be here during the
L.A. riots - or a similar situation, in which you have tens of thousands of
angry people, and police departments telling you that "you're on your own."
(this happened to me).

I am aware that some countries frown on folks that carry ONLY a baseball bat:
in Germany, it's a no no to carry a 4+cell Mag Lite in your car! Different
strokes, I guess. My only question is, before the gun, there was the knife -
before the knife, there was the club (or, bat). Why don't people pick on these
weapons? They're used in more crimes, than guns are. Land Rover even carries a
gun cabinet, as well as a gun rack for their dog guard (you can call this my
LR content) in their accessories catalogues, but no such thing for
knives/bats??

Charles
(here I go, about to get bashed again...)

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 02:21:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Sorry for weapon tangent(no LR content)

Almost forgot...even Bobbies carry guns these days, albeit optional from
officer to officer, and they must be concealed at all times.

Times change...

Charles

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 23:45:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing

---David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Faure, Marin wrote:
> > TDC.  According to the owners and shop manuals, I am not aware of

any
> > timing setting for this engine that is actually before TDC. 
Depending
> Are you only looking at the Series III manuals?  The NADA series
IIIs had
> a distributor that was set to have very retarded timing at idle.  The
> later IIAs may have done that too.  It is an emissions thing.  Earlier
> engines called for more advanced idle timnings.  The marks on my IIA's
> flywheel are TDC, 3BTDC and 6BTDC.  I generally run 8 or 10 degrees
before
> TDC.  That is with 87 (R+M)/2 octane gas.  If I spring for high-test
> gasoline, I can push it to about 12 degrees before it pings.

In sunny Singapore, I have run the ignition as high as 10 degrees BTDC
on 98 octane. That's for a 8:1 head. I believe a lower compression
head can have even more advanced ignition timing before pinking. The
timing recommended by the manual makes for a really sluggish drive.

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 20:33:40 +1000
Subject: Nameless Kirk

<<  (nameless) >>
Frank wrote:

>good name for your Land Rover!!

Jeez, Frank, I gave Kirk Hillman all these great Hillman names and he didn't
use any of them.
I'm partial to Hillman's Imp.  Do you think I should email him a pix of a
real Hillman Imp so he can compare them?  Or he could check
http://homepages.tig.com.au/~timetech/HILLMAN.HTM

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 18:35:40 +1000
Subject: Perkins 4 203

William L. Leacock wrote:

>The Perkins 4 203 ... is an agricultural / industrial engine, most
>commonly fitted to tractors and fork lift trucks, some were fitted
>to Dodge ? commer commercial vehicles in the UK,

Bill !!!  An expatriate Pommie calling a Commer a Dodge!  Tsk Tsk.

Small Commers e.g. Commer Cob were rebadged Hillmans.  Others were Karriers.
Dodge only came much later after Chrysler bought out the Rootes Group.

Anyway, the most famous diesel fitted to Commers was, of course, the double
knocker which had two horizontally opposed pistons in each cylinder - yep
facing each other.  They both went in together and out together.

Ron Beckett
Webmaster - Hillman Owners Club of Australia
Webmaster Elect - Land Rover Owners Club of Australia (Sydney Branch)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 18:38:57 +1000
Subject: Color for trop roof?

Robert St-Louis or  Kathleen Hollington wrote:

>When I get a bit of time, I'd like to lay a coat of paint on the white
>cover of my tropical roof.  Any suggestions about what kind of paint
>I should use on there (glossy vs flat, enamel vs rust paint)?

If you remember your high school physics you'll know that flat paints (even
white) readily absorb heat whilst glossy paints (even black) don't.

Equally, matt surfaces easily radiate heat and shiny surfaces don't.

Therefore, paint the tropical roof and the car roof glossy on both sides

Every tropical roof I've seen has been the same colour as the roof usually
white - even station wagons which, Teri-Ann understands, usually have body
coloured roofs. Perhaps that was in the US.
Ron

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 18:39:12 +1000
Subject: Points/Ignition Series III Tach

Hank Stinson wrote:

>Should the points be fully open when the ignition sparks?
>It appears mine spark very early in the points opening cycle

The latter is correct.  I'll try to explain, in simple terms, how the dizzie
and coil works.

Let's assume the points have just closed.  Current begins flowing from the
battery thru the points then thru the primary winding of the coil.  (Note
that the coil is merely a high voltage transformer - this is important).

This current flow creates a magnetic field which builds up thru the coil.
The current continues to flow while ever the points are closed (the dwell
period - usually expressed in degrees of rotation of the distributor shaft).

Note also that the time for the magnetic field buildup is affected by the
inductance of the coil.  In simple terms, the inductance of the coil impedes
the flow of current (and therefore it impedes the buildup of the field).
We'll discuss this later under dwell period.

Suddenly, the distributor cam opens the points.  Immediately the magnetic
field, which has been building up, collapses because there is no more
current flow in the primary winding.

This collapsing magnetic field generates a high voltage pulse in the
secondary winding of the coil.  The speed of collapse of the magnetic field
is important in this application too.  A slow collapse wouldn't generate the
type of high voltage output we need for the spark plugs.

The output of the coil is fed to the centre of the distributor cap where it
is switched (distributed) to the appropriate spark plug.

So the spark occurs almost instantly the points open.

Now a word about the distributor points gap.  If the points gap is set at
too small a value, the points will close later and open earlier than
expected.  This reduced dwell time, will reduce the current flow into the
primary of the coil and, accordingly, reduce the magnetic field buildup.
The nett effect is that the high voltage output from the coil will be lower
and your spark will be affected.

I mentioned earlier about the the inductance of the coil impeding the
current flow and the magnetic field build up.  You can see, that if the
dwell period is reduced, it makes it even harder to get a good magnetic
field because the current flow may not have reached maximum.  So points gap
is very important.  Ideally you should set this with a dwell meter.

You can see also that the points must open at the same time the distributor
rotor reaches the correct point on the distributor cap to send the spark to
the right plug - ore even to get it to a plug at all.  Imagine if the points
opened when the rotor was partway between spark plug leads.  The spark
wouldn't get to the plugs at all.

Note, this is a very brief and basic description and I hope it helped.  (No?
oh well).

Lawrence asked:

Subject: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

>Just out of curiousity, will dwell angle matter at all if ignition
>timing is set dynamically (by strobe)? and if it does, why? and what
>would be the typical dwell of a straight six?

Timing and dwell are two different things.  Dwell is set by setting the
points gap.  Timing by rotating the distributor. Typical dwell angles are:
4-cyl = 60 degs; 6-cyl = 32-40 degs, 8-cyl = 26-30 degs

Ron

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 10:04:21 +0000
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

>Personally, somebody enters my house illegally I'll cream him and worry about
>the consequences later..

Its that bit of string again.Its well known amongst country folk that
a pair of well loaded wellies kept by the bed is enough to deter even
the most determined burglar.The string wraps itself irretrievably around
the miscreants neck,causing anguished gurgling sounds as he attempts to
escape,thus locating him for the plod on 'is bike.If inaccurately thrown
the string causes the wellies to fly erratically,unloading themselves
all *over* the place,inevitably involving the intruder.I understand well
rotted farmyard manure is recommended.(Its what most 88" owners have
behind the seats.What do you mean you havent? Have you looked lately?
No,thought not).Which is where the old term,"In the shit" comes from.
Its also probably why Franks feet smell.You have to remember to *unload*
the wellies in the morning Frank.....
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 04 Sep 1998 11:17:09 +0200
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

Frankelson@aol.com writes:

> get a seal, remove the retaining ring, slide back. ease the seal out, cut it
> and pull it off. Get new seal, cut it and throw away the spring. 
                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Eh? ITYM dismantle the spring? As far as I know, it is difficult to 
manufacture these springs as a full ring. They're simply screwed together
at some point. Unscrew, place around the axle, screw it back together
and refit to the seal.

> This works, honest!!!

So does the above. Been there, done that, ruined the T-shirt.

Greetings,

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol (with split seal on one side)

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thraser@email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 10:35:21 +0100
Subject: For some reason only some messages seem to get through, trying this 
one again?!

Since Saturday my Series III has been sitting in one place on my once
pristine drive (not!). There is new oil on the old stuff (left there years
ago by my wifes old Hyundai Pony (Binky) and a minor aberration on my part,
a Montego!), anyway, the oil seems to be dripping (not a lot mind) from the
propshaft, where it leaves the gearbox gubbins, and around the gearbox,
transfer.

Anyway, before I start getting too worried, is this normal?! I'm just a bit
worried, 'cos it's been 3 years since I drove a manual gearbox, and the
clutch and gearstick are conspiring against me - why is there no discernible
'clunk' to my gear selection!!!! Reverse at 15mph is not good as I
understand, but it seems my arm thinks it is first gear! Soon get it right I
hope! My first offroad foray with her (nicknamed 'The Rancor') is on the
13th (oh dear) and we're going greenlaning on the 20th, but it may be a tad
embarrassing if I can't drive her properly (much driving around the estate
and stopping is in order!) oh, and getting used to NO power steering!

Still she's a great beast to drive (when I eventually wind her up into
4th!) - wouldn't swap her for anything (except maybe the same with an auto
box tee hee). Brief history, she belonged to the 31st Signals, has a
salisbury diff and zenith carb. Engine is very quiet for an LR! Only 4300
miles on the clock......

Also, as this is a British car, why on earth is the indicator stick on the
&*^&* right?! Very odd, in the UK I thought only Japanese cars were like
that!

Neil

SIII '78 2.25 Petrol LWB Canvas - BNH 449S Salisbury Diff. Zenith Carb 'The
Rancor'

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 10:59:42 +0000
Subject: Re: For some reason only some messages seem to get through, trying 
this one

 the oil seems to be dripping (not a lot mind) from the
>propshaft, where it leaves the gearbox gubbins, and around the gearbox,
>transfer.
Out of the handbrake drum? Mines done that for years....Rear gearbox oilseal.
 Reverse at 15mph is not good as I
>understand, but it seems my arm thinks it is first gear!
Traditionally,you only worry about that when stopped in a line
of traffic.Backing away from traffic lights upsets people.I cant think why.

>Also, as this is a British car, why on earth is the indicator stick on the
>&*^&* right?! Very odd, in the UK I thought only Japanese cars were like
>that!
Its an *old* British car.When that was built,the Japanese werent invented.
Its perfectly logical.Your left hand,as you point out,is fully occupied with
that funny gearstick thingy(And you've got two more down there somewhere
as well).So your *right* hand can play with the indicator stalk.Steering?
Whaddya mean,steering? Got *knees* havent you?
On the other hand,if it's ex army,it will have been designed for operation
by squaddies.In squads.As the name suggests.Sarn't sits in the back,giving
orders."H'on the command..HUP..change gear" (That's the Corporal's job.He's
the clever one.They gave him two stripes to prove it.He sits in the left
hand seat)."H'on the command H'INDICATE..wobble that thingy h'on the right"
That's *your* job.You're the mug(all squads have one.You do all the work).
However,look on the bright side.It probably doesnt work.Or if it does,dont
worry about it.It soon wont,and you'll be able to forget all about it.
Feel better now?

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 06:38:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Compression Questions

Dave Scheidt adds on the valve issue:

>Assuming that you did that, you might have a valve that isnt' closing
>properly. That carbon could well do it, or you could have a badly worn
>seat.

>David

Of course, Dave, you'd know nothing about this problem.....8*)

What I was going to add is to check and see that the valves on #4 aren't
hung - do they close fully into their seats? A burnt valve is usually
pretty obvious, as the one I'm kidding David about had 2 wedges missing
from it.

               aj

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 11:33:33 +0000
Subject: Re: major swivel pin leak

 and throw away the spring.
, place around the axle, screw it back together
>and refit to the seal.
I dont think Frank actually meant throw it away,literally.Probably
just assumed no-one else would use the spring to hold their socks up...

Mike Rooth

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