[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 13 | Re: How do you set headlights? |
2 | NADdMD@aol.com | 17 | Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover |
3 | "David R. Bobeck"[dbobec | 19 | Re[2]: Color for trop roof? |
4 | "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe | 12 | RE: Dwell - Timing |
5 | NADdMD@aol.com | 18 | Re: Dwell - Timing |
6 | NADdMD@aol.com | 11 | Fwd: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover |
7 | NADdMD@aol.com | 12 | Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket |
8 | "David R. Bobeck"[dbobec | 19 | Re: loose hub caps |
9 | "chris risely" [risely@m | 31 | Series 1 gearsets |
10 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 26 | Re: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover |
11 | TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema | 28 | Re: loose hub caps |
12 | "David R. Bobeck"[dbobec | 22 | Re: Poly vs Standard bushes |
13 | NADdMD@aol.com | 17 | Re: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover |
14 | Thomas Spoto [tspoto@az. | 24 | Re: Dwell - Timing |
15 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 30 | TW loose hub caps |
16 | TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema | 31 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
17 | "Dr. Gary.A.Bauer" [baue | 16 | New Member |
18 | "David R. Bobeck"[dbobec | 13 | Re[2]: Bronze Greens |
19 | TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema | 39 | Re: TW loose hub caps |
20 | TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema | 51 | I got this itch |
21 | MRogers315@aol.com | 16 | Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers |
22 | MRogers315@aol.com | 16 | Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers |
23 | Russell Dushin [dushinrg | 45 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
24 | "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" | 14 | LaSalle trim |
25 | john cranfield [john.cra | 23 | Re: Power for Kenlow fan on 110 |
26 | Casey McMullen [st93wxta | 21 | LR books from Amazon.com |
27 | asfco [asfco@banet.net> | 14 | Re: LaSalle trim |
28 | Lodelane@aol.com | 13 | Re: LR books from Amazon.com |
29 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 27 | Re: TW loose hub caps |
30 | "Hastelow, Simon - DM/NT | 13 | Re: LaSalle trim |
31 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 39 | Re: LaSalle website |
32 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 46 | Organic solvents (Xylene) |
33 | Peter Thoren [Peter.Thor | 27 | Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? |
34 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 46 | FWH's |
35 | "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" | 13 | RE: LaSalle trim |
36 | Tim Harincar [harincar@C | 31 | trop top colors |
37 | Michael Carradine [cs@la | 25 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
38 | NADdMD@aol.com | 25 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
39 | "Peter M. Kaskan" [pmk11 | 15 | Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket |
40 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 35 | Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket |
41 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 37 | xylene and MSDS |
42 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 14 | Waxoyl MSDS |
43 | "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" | 28 | The 90 I'm about to buy |
44 | Frankelson@aol.com | 22 | Re: I got this itch |
45 | Frankelson@aol.com | 27 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
46 | Frankelson@aol.com | 24 | Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers |
47 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 31 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
48 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 47 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
49 | Michael Carradine [cs@la | 25 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
50 | "Chris Velardi" [tchris@ | 24 | Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket |
51 | "Jeffrey Jackson" [jcjcj | 12 | Helpful Hint |
52 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 32 | Re: The 90 I'm about to buy |
53 | Zaxcoinc@aol.com | 19 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
54 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 20 | Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
55 | Zaxcoinc@aol.com | 13 | Re: Helpful Hint |
56 | Jarvis64@aol.com | 18 | Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
57 | "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" | 21 | RE: The 90 I'm about to buy |
58 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 11 | Re: WAXOYL MSDS WEBSITE |
59 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 17 | 85W140 oil |
60 | "Chris Velardi" [tchris@ | 11 | Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
61 | NADdMD@aol.com | 18 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
62 | NADdMD@aol.com | 22 | Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) |
63 | NADdMD@aol.com | 22 | Re: 85W140 oil |
64 | NADdMD@aol.com | 17 | Re: Helpful Hint |
65 | Russ Wilson [rwwilson@mh | 20 | Big Sticks... |
66 | antonio manega [gazergro | 14 | Tires for sale |
67 | Steve Rochna [75347.452@ | 19 | New 2.25 engine |
68 | Jarvis64@aol.com | 18 | Leaky Toro o/d |
69 | James Wolf [J.Wolf@world | 23 | RE: Clubs |
70 | James Wolf [J.Wolf@world | 14 | RE: hub caps |
71 | car4doc [car4doc@concent | 13 | Dormobile adiction/ itch |
72 | "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe | 9 | RE: hub caps |
73 | Zaxcoinc@aol.com | 17 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
74 | hstin@cts.com (Henry Sti | 13 | Series III Tach |
75 | "C. Marin Faure" [faurec | 50 | Re: No oil in swivel |
76 | Dale Smith [smithdv1@yah | 18 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
77 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 18 | Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) |
78 | Kathleen Hollington [kho | 20 | Color for trop roof - THANKS! |
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:18:14 EDT Subject: Re: How do you set headlights? The way I used to do it, was to park my car about 40 feet from a wall (on level ground, of course), and set the beams about 3 feet off the deck. Nowadays, I use the handy-dandy headlight adjustment tool, purchased at Trak Auto, a few years ago. Works great. Charles - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:25:16 EDT Subject: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover Hi all, Any suggestions on how to remove the 2 slotted screws on the gearbox top cover (where the second gear stop adjusting bolt is)? I've tried heat, heat and penetrating oil, more penetrating oil, impact screw driver, swearing and a combination of all three. I don't like to try easy outs myself (too much risk of complicating the situation--BTDT too many times). Any other ideas before I stop by the machine shop? Thanks Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 09:12:27 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? >How about aluminium details which are left nonpainted on the body? I have >seen pictures of cars with and without such unpainted details. I mean the >aluminium around the tail lamps and such. also would have been galvanised steel. the body cappings on the tub and the top edge of the door bottom too. and the windscreen, and just about all the other stell bits except for the toolbox, frame, firewall, and breakfast. the rivets can be drille dout and they can be removed and sent off for regalvanising if necessary, or you could try stripping them on the car, just cover the body paint so you don't ruin it. later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:06:32 -0500 Subject: RE: Dwell - Timing In regards to timinig, which is advance and which is retard. To my mind, advance would be firing that occurs at increasing degrees before top dead center. Retard would be closer and closer to TDC. Is this correct? cwolfe - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 10:13:16 EDT Subject: Re: Dwell - Timing In a message dated 9/2/98 10:10:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, CWolfe@smdc.org writes: << In regards to timinig, which is advance and which is retard. To my mind, advance would be firing that occurs at increasing degrees before top dead center. Retard would be closer and closer to TDC. Is this correct? >> And for us simple minded ones: Turning the Dizzy clockwise retards? and Counter-clockwise advances? Nait - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 10:17:46 EDT Subject: Fwd: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover Sending again...it seems it may have been eaten by AOL.... --part0_904745866_boundary Content-ID: <0_904745866@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> [Attachment removed, was 17 lines.] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 10:32:55 EDT Subject: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket Hi all, Anyone used the LR Supermarket aftermarket exhaust manifold? Any problems with aftermarket exhaust manifolds in general? Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 10:49:12 -0500 Subject: Re: loose hub caps >>Is there a trick to getting a loose hub cap tight? technically you are supposed to replace them every time you have them off but for a group that can't even replace a silly cotter pin, it really isn't feasible. I haven't had any trouble gettin gmine to stay put, but I imagine that making a few dimples with a center punch on the outer surface of the hub flange would create enough of an interference fit to make it hold. spread some blue locitite on there for extra holding power. Same trick worked to keep the frisky little adapter ring for the weber carb in place. later daveb - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "chris risely" <risely@mailexcite.com> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 07:42:51 -0700 Subject: Series 1 gearsets I'm looking for information on the availability of LOWER ratio gears for the early S1 heavy duty axles. My current axles sport ENV part numbers on the gears, and I have been told that their were ratio's of both 5.26:1 and 5.57:1 available for the ENV axles (for the early 1 tons, and forward control models). Does anyone know of the availability of these gearsets? Also I have heard a whisper of an even lower 6.125:1 gearset being available in the UK from an aftermarket supplier: if anyone knows of these gears, or of any other low ratio gearsets for the S1 axles, please let me know how to contact the suppliers. My vehicle is heavily modified, and the lower ratio gears are as much for on-road driveability, as for off-road traction. For full details on the modifications, please check out my club web site at http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1236, the specifications are listed under the authors rig column. Anyone with information please e-mail me back direct to risely@mailexcite.com. Many Thanks Chris Risely DeWinton Alberta Canada Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 17:02:03 +0200 Subject: Re: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover Hi nate, If all else fails, try welding a small metal item (washer or bolt) to the head of the screw - the welding heat should loosen the screw - take it out, and repair/replace the screw afterwards. Good luck Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 08:10:45 -0700 Subject: Re: loose hub caps > Is there a trick to getting a loose hub cap tight? ; They are supposed to be a tight friction fit. My problem has always been getting the bloody things off. It looks like ether your caps are streached or the outside of your axle flanges are badly worn. I would guess the caps are streached. They are inexpensive new so you might spring for a new set. Even a tight fitting cap will leak oil if oil is getting past the felt washer at the end of the axle shaft. One trick that Scotty tought me for dry wheels is to put a bead of RTV on the surface there the cap fits over the flange before assembly. It really works. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 10:54:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Poly vs Standard bushes aftermarket/genuine springs. all crap. you never can tell. I know people who have had genuine springs from RN fail dismally after five years. Also AB springs tend to go flat after a saomewhat shorter duration. go Parabolic, or get a decent set of 2nd regular springs. hard to tell fi they're any good till you put em on though. polybushes. got em. (OME) can't complain, easy to change. less likely to fail than rubber. probly not much difference in the ride though. In the sporting world polybushes are made to deflect less and therefore offer a stiffer suspension feel and better handling. In the rover world they just seem to make things easier and probably have a longer life since they are impervious to solvents and oils and I think they probalby can rebound more time before they crack. later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 11:10:27 EDT Subject: Re: Stuck Slotted Screws on the Geabox Topcover In a message dated 9/2/98 11:02:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, channel6@post2.tele.dk writes: << If all else fails, try welding a small metal item (washer or bolt) to the head of the screw - the welding heat should loosen the screw - take it out, and repair/replace the screw afterwards. >> Excellent idea! the real problem is getting sufficient torque on the screw. Thanks Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com> Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 08:11:58 -0700 Subject: Re: Dwell - Timing NADdMD@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/2/98 10:10:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, CWolfe@smdc.org > writes: > << In regards to timinig, which is advance and which is retard. To my > mind, advance would be firing that occurs at increasing degrees before > top dead center. Retard would be closer and closer to TDC. Is this > correct? >> > And for us simple minded ones: Turning the Dizzy clockwise retards? and [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > Counter-clockwise advances? > Nait I don't know about your distributor, but the rotor in mine spins counterclockwise. So turning the body of my distributor clockwise advances ignition timing. Tom - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 17:19:08 +0200 Subject: TW loose hub caps TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: Even a tight fitting cap will leak oil if oil is getting past the felt washer at the end of the axle shaft. One trick that Scotty tought me for dry wheels is to put a bead of RTV on the surface there the cap fits over the flange before assembly. Hi TA What's RTV? cheers Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 08:23:19 -0700 Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) Baseball bats are low caliber. Try a handle from a removable handle pick axe. Not only hefty but it has a steel jacket around the tip. It can do double duty by helping get you through situations where you could not ordinarilly drive. ; ><< just buy an aluminum baseball bat, >> ;>dunno about USlaws but if we (UK) carry a baseball bat without a ball, it is ;>an offensive weapon and we can be nicked (UK for arrested). However, carry a ;>tennis ball or whatever as well and we're ok. ;>The Law is a wot??? ;> ;>Best Cheers ;> ;>Frank TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Dr. Gary.A.Bauer" <bauerg@iafrica.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:12:54 +0200 Subject: New Member Hi All This is just a short message to introduce myself as a new ZA member of the list. Live in Cape Town and have a 1975 Series III SWB petrol, and a 1949 Series I 80". Look forward to all the news from around the world, and would like to thank those who helped me subscribe. Regards Gary Bauer - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 11:30:11 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Bronze Greens >Whaddya wanna bet the paint store clerk was Joe Brown? Or maybe it was that >former mountaineer and *alpinist*, Mr. White... that's *Mrs.* White, in the parlor with Colonel Mustard, and the candlestick... later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 08:42:04 -0700 Subject: Re: TW loose hub caps >TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: ;>Even a tight fitting cap will leak oil if oil is getting past the felt ;>washer at the end of the axle shaft. One trick that Scotty tought me ;>for dry wheels is to put a bead of RTV on the surface there the cap fits ;>over the flange before assembly. ;>Hi TA ;>What's RTV? ;>cheers ;>Adrian Redmond Hi Adrian Up late at night again I see. Are you sure that you are not a vampire or something? I'm not sure that you have ever sent an e-mail during your daylight hours. But it is nice to be able to chat real time. RTV is an accronym for Room Temperature Vulcanizing It covers a family of rubber like sealents that comes in a tube. It is generally used to seal gaskets or replace gaskets. It comes in several colours and temperature classifications. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 09:03:08 -0700 Subject: I got this itch This morning I started packing for my trip to Portland. I figure five nights on this trip. It will be one of my shortest trips this year and comes about a month after I got back on my run from California to New York and back for the Greek Peak LR meet. I got out the chase lounge pad that is my Wolf Hound's bed when on the trail. She took one sniff and layed down on it as I was gathering stuff. First load out to the Green Rover and she was excited and ready to be back on the trail. As I was walking out to the car I felt a lightness and a smile. I have been home a whole month and was ready and eager to be back on the trail. As I load the car I have to keep reminding myself that this is just a short 5 day run and not to pack the usual amount of stuff. As it turns out I still have enough to stay in the field indefinitly. What has happened to me? I used to be a home girl who seldom went anywhere other than work related trips. Owning a dairy heard that needed milking twice a day every day did that to me. Well the dairy goats are sold and I have developed this itch to be on the trail. I "finished" the expedition conversion to the Green Rover a year ago just before last year's Portland all British field meet. When I return from this meet I will have been on the trail living in my Dormobile conversion for a total of 20 weeks during the past year. Packing the car and doing the final checks is like scratching a deep itch It feels so right. Sigh, how can I keep me down on the farm when my Rover, my hound and I all have an itch? Well I need to get out & finish the packing so I can cet back home on the trail To those going to Portland, see ya soon! TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MRogers315@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:02:10 EDT Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers What's all this nonesense about heater controle cables? Are you all going soft? The best system by far is the one I use. Half inch rotary steam valve plumbed into the heater circuit, under the bonnet. I just have to decide before I drive if the heater will be required or not. Probably get more heat from the exhaust through the floor anyway :-) Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid + Rolling RR chassis (awaiting the right body) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MRogers315@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:02:02 EDT Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers What's all this nonesense about heater controle cables? Are you all going soft? The best system by far is the one I use. Half inch rotary steam valve plumbed into the heater circuit, under the bonnet. I just have to decide before I drive if the heater will be required or not. Probably get more heat from the exhaust through the floor anyway :-) Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid + Rolling RR chassis (awaiting the right body) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russell Dushin <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 12:38:42 -0400 Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) TeA wrote (??!!??): Baseball bats are low caliber. Try a handle from a removable handle pick axe. Not only hefty but it has a steel jacket around the tip. It can do double duty by helping get you through situations where you could not ordinarilly drive. I've got one of these...it's a WWI or WWII Brit Army surplus trench digging tool. Certainly could hurt someone with it, but frankly, I'd rather flee than fight (being all of 135 lbs but fast on foot...). Besides, it ain't no match for gunpowder... I keep it behind the seat as a useful tool, or just to use in a sandbox should I come across one. Allright, I'd also use it to beat the crap out of some punk that chose to paint his name on the outcroppings of my favorite hillsides... But TeA, methinks it's time to change the .sig: (being all of 135 lbs but fast on foot...). Besides, it ain't no match TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. (being all of 135 lbs but fast on foot...). Besides, it ain't no match How's about "Swing a pick axe handle wherever you go on earth and all her creatures will get the hell out of your way"?? rd/nige - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 11:38:55 -0500 Subject: LaSalle trim Does anyone know at what adress was the www-page of LaSalle trim located? I had it but lost it. Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A. E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr Tel: (506) 296 2743 Fax: (506) 296 2744 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 15:10:00 -0300 Subject: Re: Power for Kenlow fan on 110 Endersby, Gordon wrote: > Can anyone suggest the best place to connect the 12volt feed for a > Kenlow electric fan ? > I can not get a manual for the 110 2.25 petrol station wagon. So I > Idealy I would like to wire it into the existing fuse box. > If I attach it to say a lighting circuit, Could I just increase the fuse [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > rating ? > Gordon Endersby Do Not connect your fan to any lighting circuit as the wiring is only just heavy enough to do its job any way. The Best place to connect is at the solenoid connection and use an inline fuse for protection. If you want it to turn off with the ignition switch you should use a relay that is triggered by the ignition switch and powered from the solenoid connection. This not a difficult job. John and Muddy - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Casey McMullen <st93wxta@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 15:06:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: LR books from Amazon.com Does anyone know if Amazon.com is for real on their listings of Land-Rover books? They seem amazingly cheap, has anyone gotten them or do you just sit on backorder? Title Amazon Typical LR Parts House Series II Workshop pt.I & II $100 $126-$170 Series III Parts Catalogue $35 $96-$120 I saw these at http://www.gvtc.com/~outback/bookstore/ thanks, Casey M '72 sIII 88 casey@drexel.edu http://httpsrv.ocs.drexel.edu/undergrad/st93wxta/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: asfco <asfco@banet.net> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 15:20:44 -0400 Subject: Re: LaSalle trim Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: > Does anyone know at what adress was the www-page of LaSalle trim Manuel; >Several postings regarding Lasalle here in the last month or so I suggest you check the archives Rgds Steve Bradke - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 15:20:54 EDT Subject: Re: LR books from Amazon.com Been there, done that, got the books - good prices, good service. They list and ship what's advertised. If it shows "Usually ships in XXXX hours/days" on the screen, it does. Longest I've waited was a week and a half for a non- Rover book that was listed as being in limited quantity. Larry Smith Chester, VA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 21:30:45 +0200 Subject: Re: TW loose hub caps Hi TA, Call this late (HOWL!!!) it was 18:00 when I answered your mail - just finished work - it's only quarter after nine now! Plenty of time yet. Room temperature vampirising? Who me? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Hastelow, Simon - DM/NT" <simon.hastelow@dailymail.co.uk> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 98 21:25:00 PDT Subject: Re: LaSalle trim Their web address is www.lasalle-trim.co.uk e-mail lasalle.trim@virgin.net - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 22:42:48 +0200 Subject: Re: LaSalle website <grouch mode on> The La Salle website must be the slowest website which i have visited in yonks! And the tinny music - aaaarrrrggghhhhh! Also a pity that the pictures are so small - hardly any detail even on my 17" screen. As someone who makes websites professionally - I was disappointed! <grouch mode cancel> having said that - the products look nice, the idea is appealing, and the prices seem very reasonable. Has anyone tried this? This could be an idea for my 110 rebuild next year.... Did I say rebuild? next year? aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrgggghhhhhh! cheers Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 22:49:58 +0200 Subject: Organic solvents (Xylene) I missed the posting on xylene from Alan Bishop - but having used this stuff in moderate quantities, and having always experienced slight headaches and ghandi's revenge when using them, I was interested in the thread. I always use a filter mask - not piped fresh air, but a filter suitable for filtering organic solvents. I usually have the workshop doors open too. I guess I have used 5 liters a year in this way for the past five to eight years - mostly for spraying in short concentrated periods - never more than an hours "exposure" without a break (and the break includes the mask which also comes out into the fresh air). Besides this is a few hours cleaning surfaces and paint brushes, spray gun etc. I have often tried to look up the recomended safe exposures and conditions of use for this stuff (Xylene thinners). I am told it's "safer" than Cellulose or Mineral Terpentine, and having once started to use Xylene (knowing the bubbling problem if it becomes mixed with other thinners or other paints thinned by other thinners) I have made it the standard. Does anyone have any advice or elucidation on this issue. I want to keep rovering safe - and more safe than "Keep death off the road - die in the workshop" Cheers folks... Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 22:47:26 +0200 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? >the rivets can be drille dout and they can be removed and sent off for >regalvanising if necessary, or you could try stripping them on the car, just >cover the body paint so you don't ruin it. What is the easiest way to strip these? I would asume sanding might not be the best way if you dont want to regalvanize? Peter Peter Thoren, PhD Work: Department of Genetics Uppsala University Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala Phone: +46 18 67 12 69 Fax: +46 18 67 27 05 e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se Home: Långmyrtorp 740 20 Vänge Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56 e-mail: same as above - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 22:56:52 +0200 Subject: FWH's Well the autum is setting in, we've just had another avid paint colour code thread, and it strikes me that it's been a week or two since the Freewheel Hub Flame wars.... No but seriously folks. I mounted a set of AVM's on my 88 during the last rebuild (They do look nice eh?) - I have heard that they can reduce noise when in 2x4 - so I thought it was worth a try. Problem is - when they are in 2x4 the axle/diff noise reduction (if any?) is more than outweighed by the severe increase in noise/rattle/ringing from the transfer box. In FWH 4x4 mode, whilst in 2WD, the tranny's of both axles rotate at more or less the same rate, so even though they are not engaged in the transfer case, they are still moving together (the front one freewheeling relative to the driving rear). In 4x2 mode, the front tranny and diff stays still, so something inside the transfer case is now ringing/grating/whining/winging whilst the drive tranny turns but the front tranny doesn't. Can anyone explain this phenomena? Sholdnet FWH's at least give less noise? Hoping not to start a flame war advocating the removal/banning/taxation of FWH's - just interested in a little theoretical mental gymnastics on subjects mechanical... Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 14:54:10 -0500 Subject: RE: LaSalle trim Thanks for the info. Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A. E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr Tel: (506) 296 2743 Fax: (506) 296 2744 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 16:23:12 -0500 Subject: trop top colors Michael Carradine wrote: > There must be at least three (or four) color schemes then, because on > some models the wheels, roof and sides are painted Alpine White, a > brighter white with no yellow tinge. The use of Alpine White versus > Limestone depends on the base body color, for instance, our 1972 Marine > Blue Series III has Alpine White wheels, roof and sides. I believe > the Poppy Red Land Rovers also use Alpine White. Any others? > -Michael My poppy IIa SW ('66) has limestone wheels. This I am sure of as I just repainted the rears w/genuine paint from RN last summer and they match the fronts which I have no reason to believe are not original. I am almost positive the sunshade is also limestone, but I'll try to confirm that - it has never appeared to be a bright white. The roof itself, being a SW, is all poppy. A photo of this is at http://www.pconline.com/~harincar/rover/. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@camworks.com Camworks, St. Paul, MN http://www.camworks.com Internet Solutions that Power Business - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 14:33:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) At 10:49 PM 9/3/98 +0200, Adrian Redmond wrote: :I missed the posting on xylene from Alan Bishop - but having used this :stuff in moderate quantities, and having always experienced slight :headaches and ghandi's revenge when using them, I was interested in the :thread. ... :I guess I have used 5 liters a year in this way for the past five to :eight years - mostly for spraying in short concentrated periods. The problem with organic solvents is that the effects are cummulative, molecule by molecule. "Organic" does not refer to the solvent itself, but to you, the organism being dissolved. Over time they dissolve the fatty tissue in your body, especially the fatty layer around your nerves... that's right, the insulation in your bio-electrical system. It does not regenerate itself. Spending the rest of your days trapped in a short circuiting body makes your Land Rover troubles with Lucas seem incidental. -Michael "0 tolerance for solvents" Carradine - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:35:49 EDT Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) In a message dated 9/2/98 4:51:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, channel6@post2.tele.dk writes: << Does anyone have any advice or elucidation on this issue. I want to keep rovering safe - and more safe than "Keep death off the road - die in the workshop" >> Xylene is considered an irritant by NIOSH. Flashpoint 26.2 C (79 F) Vapors may cause irritation of nose and throat. High concentrations may result in nausea, vomiting, headache, ringing in ears and severe breathing difficulties. High vapor concentrations are anesthetic and central nervous system depressants. Aspirated liquid can cause hemorrhagic pneumonitis. Vapors are irritating to eye tissue, liquid droplets can cause hemorrhagic inflammatory lesions. Generally not considered a carcinogen. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:55:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket I put in a e-manifold from AB about 7 months ago - no problem yet. It is just starting to rust - Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 18:06:32 EDT Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket In a message dated 9/2/98 5:56:23 PM, you wrote: <<I put in a e-manifold from AB about 7 months ago - no problem yet. It is just starting to rust - Peter>> Peter mentions it just starting to rust... I think I have about 6-10 months left on the tail end of my exhaust sytem, and will have to start replacing bits from the back, forward at some point. In order to help prolong the system I put in, I'm considering 2 options: 1. "Stainless" Steel system 2. Regular steel tubing, but sending to "Jet-Hot" (www.jet-hot.com or www.jethot.com?) for coating. I've seen turbo exhaust manifold coated by them, and they've withstood the heat and the environmental exposure. I've read varied responses on the list re: stainless, Double-S, SS etc., and have contributed my two bits on that topic, but I haven't seen any mention of coatings that I can recall. Anyone use them and care to share the experience? My other option is trying to locate a place that offers the same thing as www.zincrich.com, in lieu of galvanizing. Incidentally, I plan on having some tubes bent up for me at a local speed shop, following the dimensions and bends of the factory system, with the exception of the mufflers, I'll be going aftermarket by that point in the vehicle's life... --pat - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 18:12:38 EDT Subject: xylene and MSDS Adrian wonders about the safety of xylene... *** Does anyone have any advice or elucidation on this issue. I want to keep rovering safe - and more safe than "Keep death off the road - die in the workshop" *** Just about any substance made or sold by mankind has an associated MSDS sheet (Material Safety Data Sheet). Yes, even sand. And yes, even sand is considered toxic...just imagine what would happen to little Johnny if he ingested a ton or so of the stuff...he'd sink like a stone in the next puddle he played in. OK, so maybe those who require MSDS sheets have gone overboard (nah, they haven't) and maybe those who draw them up are a little paranoid of being sued (sure they are, why else would sand be considered toxic?), but they do serve a useful purpose - to keep those who use the products informed as to what the health risks are AND, better still for folks like me who work with nasties all the time, to inform users where and how to dispose of the stuff. For an internet listing of where to find MSDS sheets on line see: http://www.ilpi.com/msds/index.chtml BUT, I'm not so sure you'll find Waxoyl there, but you might.. cheers, and don't drink the stuff, it's nasty, rd/nige - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 18:16:09 EDT Subject: Waxoyl MSDS whattaya know, the Cornell site has Waxoyl... read all about it folks, at: http://MSDS.PDC.CORNELL.EDU/msds/hazcom/202/50977.txt roll yer own!!, rd/nige - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 16:16:10 -0500 Subject: The 90 I'm about to buy OK. I'll tell you all my real concern about this truck. The engine is OK, paint is OK, needs shocks, great wheels and tires, needs a new dashboard, needs some fixes on the seats, needs new door seals, but all of this is no big deal. My BIG doubt is that it's got a split windscreen, the same as a SIII. AND the rear side windows are series-like windows. Could this be correct? According to its VIN it is what it is supposed to be, assambled in Solihull around late 1985. Everything else is typical-90, from the waist line down. Could it be that I'm completly wrong and it is a totally normal truck, OR I have a strange mutation in front of me? Anyway, It looks great, so I think (but this no good parameter of comparison since I'm desperate for getting at last my LR) I would appreciate any comments ASAP, 'cous I have to take a desicion. I trust you guys and girls. LUIS MANUEL "confused" GUTIERREZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frankelson@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 18:33:30 EDT Subject: Re: I got this itch In a message dated 02/09/98 17:03:25 BST, you write: << Rover, my hound and I all have an itch? >> E45 will do it for the hound and you, but goodness knows what for the Rover?? have a nice time.. Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|”_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 "(o)======(o)" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frankelson@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 18:33:25 EDT Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) In a message dated 02/09/98 14:30:30 BST, you write: << You could carry a cricket bat,though.Makes just as good a weapon.And someone might just offer you a game as well..... >> I do carry a cricket bat - but not for hitting people with. I've seen baseball, rounders for boys, they might as well hit people with the bat as play it. BTW a cricket bat without a ball is also an offensive weapon... BTW 2 where do you buy those baseball hats with the peak at the back. I tried to get one for my grandson but all the ones I saw in the shops had the peak at the front.... Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|”_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 "(o)======(o)" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frankelson@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 18:33:31 EDT Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers In a message dated 02/09/98 17:03:34 BST, you write: << nto the heater circuit, under the bonnet. I just have to decide before I drive if the heater will be required or not. Probably get more heat from the exhaust through the floor anyway :-) >> now I'M getting two of your messages Mike.. significant factor is aol.... have you reported it, I have and they said they'rre working on it, that was a week ago... Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|”_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 "(o)======(o)" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 00:33:49 +0200 Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) Nate wrote - Aspirated liquid can cause hemorrhagic pneumonitis. Vapors are irritating to eye tissue, liquid droplets can cause hemorrhagic inflammatory lesions. Hi Nate! hemorragic what? What does this mean in English? Something about bleeding lungs and red swelling? Do I take it, that this stuff, whilst not being fit for a childrens party, is basically safe, as long as one is sensible? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 98 18:41:32 EDT Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) MC wrote: *** The problem with organic solvents is that the effects are cummulative, molecule by molecule. "Organic" does not refer to the solvent itself, but to you, the organism being dissolved. Over time they dissolve the fatty tissue in your body, especially the fatty layer around your nerves... that's right, the insulation in your bio-electrical system. It does not regenerate itself. Spending the rest of your days trapped in a short circuiting body makes your Land Rover troubles with Lucas seem incidental. *** Oh bullshit. Ain't you never heard of metabolism and/or excretion? Sure, some substances cannot be metabolised and may stick around forever, but you really can't make such broad generalizations that "organic solvent ...effect are cumulative". Popycock. Take toluene, for instance. Completely and 100% metabolized (over time) to benzoic acid. You piss it out. Bye bye, down the drain it goes as something else. Know what? It's just got one little ol' carbon and 3 hydrogens attached to a *benzene* (a potent carcinogen) ring. Go figure. Others may not be metabolized at all, and may be excreted unchanged, either through your lungs, your skin, your whizz, or your crap. Those that don't might hang out for awhile or forever, but your body is chock full of enzymes and antibodies whose function it is to attack foreign substances, chew them up, and spit them out. Bet you never thought of yourself as a toxic waste reclaimation system, eh? I've worked with toxic substances for over 20 years, and frankly, provided I use a hood (or simple ventilation using over the counter stuff at home) and gloves, I worry far more about what I breath from that Ford ahead of me with the bogus catalytic... The key is to know what you're dealing with...consult the MSDS. r"still love the smell of ethyl acetate"d/nige - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 16:07:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) At 12:33 AM 9/4/98, Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> wrote: :>Nate wrote - :>Aspirated liquid can cause hemorrhagic pneumonitis. :>Vapors are irritating to eye tissue, liquid droplets can cause :>hemorrhagic inflammatory lesions. : :hemorragic what? What does this mean in English? Something about :bleeding lungs and red swelling? Yup, bleeding lungs. Pneumonitis ...filling up your lungs with liquid, as in pneumonia ...death by self imposed drowning in your own blood, asphyxiation. :Do I take it, that this stuff, whilst not being fit for a childrens :party, is basically safe, as long as one is sensible? How would it not be good for children, but good for you? -Michael - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:12:57 -0400 Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Genuine vs Aftermarket I have used Jet Hot for the headers on my '61 MGA and think it's a great product. But. If you can buy replacement headers for your rig for under $150 think twice about it . I think the pipes for my "A" new plus the Jet Hot coating came to $300 . You can get headman headers for a Range Rover now for $85 ....How long are you going to own the vehicle? You can buy almost 4 sets of bran new headers for the $ of one that will last probably longer than the vehicle. Jet Hot also lets the engine exhaust easier and lowers engine temperatures and you could get better performance through it's use, and less installation bills (it's not fun replacing headers every year. Exhaust system vary in life expectancy by driving habits . If you drive short distances in humid climates the exhaust will not last the humidity you see dripping out the tail pipe on startups will not completely evaporate and rust it to pieces from the inside out. Longer commutes will put enough heat through the system to cure the problem . In so many words if your system is expensive or hard to find and you plan to keep it for years to come use Jet Hot. If your just driving the vehicle until you can afford a new one and the systems are easy to find and cheep save yourself some cash. Chris "V" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Jeffrey Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:09:39 -0400 Subject: Helpful Hint When removing the old-style, metal-framed oil seal from the transfer case front output seal retainer, a 1 7/8" trailer ball makes a dandy drift. Whack vigorously (that works on so many levels). Jeff "A garage full of assorted crap is fully the equal of a Snap-On Tool Box" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:17:23 EDT Subject: Re: The 90 I'm about to buy In a message dated 9/2/98 6:23:02 PM, you wrote: <<According to its VIN it is what it is supposed to be, assambled in Solihull around late 1985. Everything else is typical-90, from the waist line down.>> 18 years after it was built, who's to say what's *typical* about it... One of the benefits of these trucks is the upgradeability of their parts, but consequently, it means many older parts fit newer vehicles. Maybe someone did a "Seriesous Modification" (sp?) on the 90. VIN #s have been known to migrate... and it has been known for Land Rovers to be passed off for something other than they really are. (I don't mean to be negative here, just letting you know if you don't already) It does have *Coil* springs, right? If not it could be some type of Stage-1. Measure the actual wheelbase, hub-center-to-hub-center to see if it is an 88 coil-sprunc conversion or a 90 chassis. (I understand that Stage 1 88's are less wheelbase than a 90 which is 92.something, right?) You have the money, and he has the truck. He wants the money. Ask qustions, and "Buyer Beware" certainly applies if you have doubts/butterflies/second guesses about the vehicle or the deal. Best of Luck to you, luis manuel. --pat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:19:45 EDT Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) Michael, my personal opinion is that Sodium cyanide is good for most children, emphasis on the most, there are exceptions. For example the ones I see at Land Rover campouts or picnics are generally exempt. Whether or not they sniff Xylene, Acetone or Arsine is a matter for parental controls or evolution whichever comes first. Zero tolerance for solvents includes water, I refuse to abstain, as well Ethyl alcohol, I refuse to abstain. All things in moderation except for lubricants in the Rovers. Good wishes, Zack Arbios - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:21:00 EDT Subject: Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) In a message dated 9/2/98 6:35:21 PM, you wrote: <<BTW 2 where do you buy those baseball hats with the peak at the back. I tried to get one for my grandson but all the ones I saw in the shops had the peak at the front...>> Same place where you get the baseball caps with the peaks to the sides... and the ones with the tags permanently attached... If you do find that shop, better make your selection quick or when you get back to where you parked the 110, it may be winch-less ;-) haha... --pat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:21:47 EDT Subject: Re: Helpful Hint Jeff, how close do you have to back the trailer to the seal, and how fast does it have to be going? and I've never used a Snap-On toolbox as a tool, but it might work if I need to jack something up. Good wishes Zack Arbios - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis64@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:27:40 EDT Subject: Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) TeriAnn says bats are low caliber. I think anything smaller than .357 is low caliber. Here in Georgia, we can have a loaded pistol with us in our Rovers, provided it is either a) in plain view--used to have a holster on the side of my seat or b) in the glove compartment. Not that I advocate violence over flight, but there are times when flight simply isn't realistic/ responsible (i.e. someone else is in danger). Of course, if you get a permit to carry ($45 and about 30 day wait for a background check), the pistol can be tucked away in your belt. Bill Rice Columbus GA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:24:02 -0500 Subject: RE: The 90 I'm about to buy >It does have *Coil* springs, right? If not it could be some type of Stage-1. >Measure the actual wheelbase, hub-center-to-hub-center to see if it is an 88 >coil-sprunc conversion or a 90 chassis. (I understand that Stage 1 88's are >less wheelbase than a 90 which is 92.something, right?) >Best of Luck to you, luis manuel. >--pat. It is coil-sprung, the right lenght, Discs in front, Drums in the rear and everything down there seems to be 90-original. I think a long talk with the guy is in order. Thank you, Pat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:33:16 EDT Subject: Re: WAXOYL MSDS WEBSITE Very interesting info, thanks for unearthing it Russ. I guess I'll stop using it as sunblock now ;-) --pat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:36:44 EDT Subject: 85W140 oil I saw 85W140 gear lube on sale (US$ 1.80/qt) when I bought engine oil yesterday. Anyone using it? By my understanding of the label, it should have the same pour- viscosity/thickness as an 85wt oil, right, therefore should be useable? It satisfies the same requirements as the 85W90 and plain 90wt that isn't on sale. Any dangers to using it? (I am in South Florida where it is hot outside, and inside) I think I'll get one or two just to have before the discount or stock ends. --pat. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:42:08 -0400 Subject: Re: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) In CT and MA no weapon can be worn in plain view. It can only be carried concealed. And can never be left in a vehicle (that's considered failure to safeguard a weapon) and in Mass. It's a 1 year mandatory jail sentence for an unlicensed owner. Chris "V' - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 19:59:59 EDT Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) In a message dated 9/2/98 5:34:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cs@landrover.net writes: << that's right, the insulation in your bio-electrical system. It does not regenerate itself. >> Not totally true. Schwann cells (myelinating cells along the peripheral nerves) do regenerate the myelin sheath after it is damaged as long as the perineural tract is not significantly disrupted. Pretty complicated really but if anyone wants further info, email me off list. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 20:04:47 EDT Subject: Re: Organic solvents (Xylene) In a message dated 9/2/98 6:36:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, channel6@post2.tele.dk writes: << hemorragic what? What does this mean in English? Something about bleeding lungs and red swelling?>> Right-o. Unless diffuse and severe, it is relatively self limited. <<Do I take it, that this stuff, whilst not being fit for a childrens party, is basically safe, as long as one is sensible? >> Yup. Irritating substance is probably the best way to think of it. We dispense it from 55 gal. (US) drums of it at the lab. Generally not my favorite for cologne but a little dab don't worry me. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 20:07:43 EDT Subject: Re: 85W140 oil In a message dated 9/2/98 7:37:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SPYDERS@aol.com writes: << By my understanding of the label, it should have the same pour- viscosity/thickness as an 85wt oil, right, therefore should be useable? It satisfies the same requirements as the 85W90 and plain 90wt that isn't on sale. Any dangers to using it? (I am in South Florida where it is hot outside, and inside) I think I'll get one or two just to have before the discount or stock ends. >> Charlie at RN totally agrees with this and recommends it for those in the warmer climes. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 20:13:08 EDT Subject: Re: Helpful Hint In a message dated 9/2/98 7:17:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcjcj88@email.msn.com writes: When removing the old-style, metal-framed oil seal from the transfer case front output seal retainer, a 1 7/8" trailer ball makes a dandy drift. Whack vigorously (that works on so many levels). >> Excellent! I like that much better than my method of prying with a big Craftsman screwdriver and drifting it with the 1/2 socket extension. Nate - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:34:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Big Sticks... > Baseball bats are low caliber. Try a handle from a removable handle >pick axe. Not only hefty but it has a steel jacket around the tip. It >can do double duty by helping get you through situations where you could >not ordinarilly drive. "Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures carrying a big stick and you will create mayhem and chaos wherever you go"??? It was something like that right?? TW, you do say some interesting things from time to time..;) Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner "That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...." Dennis Miller - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 66 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: antonio manega <gazergroup@pdq.net> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 19:42:08 -0600 Subject: Tires for sale Hello, I'm selling a set (5) of Michelin XPC 235/70R16 (stock tires on 97 Discovery) with 7900 miles. The spare is brand new. If you are interested please drop an e-mail Thanks Antonio gazergroup@pdq.net - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 67 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 20:57:07 -0400 Subject: New 2.25 engine All: I've just accquired an engine rebuilt for the Brit Army for my SIII. It has no PCV system. Is it worth putting on the one from my current engine? I haven't looked closely at it and am wondering if the large top comes off of the tube coming out of the timing cover for oil filling. It also has provisions for an oil cooler. Where do I get an oil cooler locally (US)? Can I cap these off for now without doing any harm? If anyone has experience with these engines I'd like to know if there is anything special that needs to be done with them. Thanks - Steve - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 68 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis64@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 20:59:58 EDT Subject: Leaky Toro o/d Howdy everybody, My overdrive is leaking. I'm not sure this is possible, but it seems to be leaking more than my rear t-case output seal. It looks like the o/d leakage is coming from the seal around the back plate (held on by 4 or 5 bolts). So, for anyone w/ a Toro o/d: How big a deal is it to take this plate off? Will I get into all kinds of trouble w/ bearings and pre load and pressing stuff on and off? Thanks for any help on this one, Bill Rice Columbus, Georgia (not the former republic of the USSR) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 69 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 21:44:08 Subject: RE: Clubs ><< (most > of these are with the British contingent on base). >> > You can just tell all those British chaps that it is a requiremant that >they join the club. Yea, you could even collect dues! Cash and Rovers to off >road with! Or make them bring the beer! (Or some of that cider! Wicked stuff!) ><< (most This sounds like an excellent idea. If one watches PBS, then one knows all about THE CLUB that all right thinking British Subjects want to belong to. You could even require them to purchase the correct leather "CLUB" chairs, and provide 15-20 year old malt whisky 8^). If they won't go that far, then they will probably go for a get togather at a good pub to swop Landy tails. Jim Wolf - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 70 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 21:49:35 Subject: RE: hub caps >Is there a trick to getting a loose hub cap tight? Charles, I have used (guess what), DUCT TAPE!! It works and you can still get them off when needed. Just clean the end of the hub and start putting it on, try a small piece on one side first and go from there. I never had one come off, without prying. Jim Wolf - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 71 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 19:47:02 -0500 Subject: Dormobile adiction/ itch Hi TeriAnn, Just got my roof installed on my 109 for the first time. I love the look & almost hear it calling me to the road & camping. I guess I got that itch also. Regards, Rob Davis_Chicago - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 72 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 22:05:23 -0500 Subject: RE: hub caps The four elements: Earth, Air, Water and Duct Tape. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 73 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 23:29:00 EDT Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) I am Jealous of your enlightened gun laws, I'm from California does that say enough? However 38 special and 38 Smith& Wesson are both .357" there is no replacement for displacement. My V8 Rovers do outpower my 2.25L series. .4" or bigger, thats where it's at just don't use it if you don't have to. Above all, don't take a bat to a gunfight. Zack Arbios - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 74 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson) Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 21:42:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Series III Tach Hello all, Thanks for all the input on the tach installation. After a few calls to VDO it turns out a diode was needed in line on the gauge feed from the coil for vehicles employing points ignition systems. Later.... Hank Stinson '73 SWB SHED - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 75 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 21:55:36 -0700 Subject: Re: No oil in swivel From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Mon, 31 Aug 98 09:20:49 -0700 Subject: Re: No oil in swivel >Be sure to check the wheel bearings over real well if they were not packed in grease. >I once saw an 88's front bearings sieze to it's spindle because the guy was in a hurry and didn't check fluids. The spindle resavor was empty and the front wheel bearings were not packed in grease. I understand that he had to replace a passle of parts on that side. I've seen several posts regarding greasing the wheel bearings on a Series Land Rover, and I find them rather puzzling. While the shop manual recommends coating new wheel bearings in grease when you first install them, I have never seen any recommendation from Land Rover, either in the shop or owners manuals for my Series III to keeping them packed in grease. The reason is pretty simple: you can't. Even if you pack the wheel bearings as you would a car or pickup, as the hub warms up during driving the grease thins out and mixes readily with the lube oil coming through from the swivel ball. The grease will not stay packed in the bearings in the manner of a regular car hub. The only lubrication required in the front hubs is the oil in the swivel ball housings. If you let this run low, you could be in for problems, but if you keep the proper level in the housings, there is no reason whatsoever to grease the bearings. This is why it is so critical for the owners of Series Land Rovers with locking hubs to run them regularly with the hubs locked. Not only does the oil being thrown around by the U-joints on the stub axles lubricate the upper swivel bearing, it also circulates oil out to the hub bearings. At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, I bought my Series III new in 1973, have never put any grease on any of the wheel bearings (the rear ones are lubricated by oil from the differential), and have never had any wheel bearing problems whatsoever. I installed Warn hubs in 1974, and have been careful to run the vehicle with the hubs locked in about half the time. ________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle, WA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 76 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 23:44:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) : BTW a cricket bat without a ball is also an offensive weapon... I always use to just carry an extra pair of trainers, "sorry officer, my mate has the ball with him" : BTW 2 where do you buy those baseball hats with the peak at the back. I tried : to get one for my grandson but all the ones I saw in the shops had the peak at : the front.... What kind of hat would that be, a peak at the back does not sound familiar to me. Smitty - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 77 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 09:44:25 +0000 Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs) >BTW a cricket bat without a ball is also an offensive weapon... Not in the hands of an England batsman,its not.. >BTW 2 where do you buy those baseball hats with the peak at the back. I tried >to get one for my grandson but all the ones I saw in the shops had the peak at >the front.... Go to Cumberland (Cumbria).Ask for a cap wi' 't neb at 't back.They've had 'em in stock for years.They also supply wellies with an extra long bit of string so you can take a full stride. Glad to be of assistance:-) Cheers Mike Rooth - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 78 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 06:52:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Color for trop roof - THANKS! Thanks for all the replies to my question re: the color of the tropical roof on my LR. Looks like mine being a light green station wagon, the roof itself is the same color as the body, and the solar panel on top is limestone (off-white). Someone pointed me to the BC Land Rover club pages, where there are extensive instructions on painting Land Rovers. Very informative. The URL is: www.roverlanders.bc.ca/bclandrover/faq/lrpaintmain.html Thanks again to all. --Robert -- Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 79 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980903 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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