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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:58:48 EDT
Subject: Re: How do you set headlights?

In a message dated 8/31/98 11:09:39 PM, CWolfe@smdc.org writes:

I know how to adjust the headlight using the screws but I do not know
what I should settings I should use as my standard.  What benchmarks do
you use to set headlights?>>

Park on a not-so-busy residential street (could be right out front of your
house) and turn the headlamps on when cars are approaching from the opposite
direction. Slowly start adjusting the beams higher and higher, until oncoming
motorists start giving you the bird... then lower by two or three screw turns.

Oh, that won't work, people up there are much too polite to give the ol'
middle finger.

Find a wall (if it is daylight, you can usually find a convenient one inside a
parking garage) and back the rover up from it about 15 feet or so and you
should see the beam patterns on the wall pretty clearly. Walk up to your
headlamps and see where abouts they are in height relation to your body. (ie:
center of lamps is at your belt, knee, elbow, shoulder, etc.) then walk over
to the wall and see if the beams are above or below that just found-point (it
will have another purpose later on). The tops of the beam ought to be at or
below that point, for a good starting point.

Now you know how high your headlights are in relation to your body (what a
piece of trivia for poker night), so when you wade that stream that looks too
deep, you'll know exactly when your headlights go under and crack if you
forget to turn them off (like I did).

(Of course, headlight setting is just a theory that exists to keep headlight-
setting-screw-makers in business, seems that mighty few people round these
parts know about it; maybe it was taught in school, after reading)

--pat.

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:07:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Color for trop roof?

When I get a bit of time, I'd like to lay a coat of paint on the white
cover of my tropical roof.  Any suggestions about what kind of paint
I should use on there (glossy vs flat, enamel vs rust paint)?  Also,
the color of the cover is now an off-white, was the tropical roof when
new a pure white color?  If so I'll paint it that color.  Thanks!
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: "A.G.Dolsa" <agdolsa@mx4.redestb.es>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:17:00 +0200
Subject: RE: ARO latest

I have some experience on 4x4 Aro .

They are the all terrain vehicles of worse quality that I have  known ,
together with the UAZ.

              ===============   Alfons G. Dolsa
             //  ||--------||   Entomologist
            //   ||        ||   Museum of Butterflies of Catalonia
   __####__//____||________||#| http://www.emporion.net/museu
  [-------/ -----Land Rover-|#| 86" - 88"III - 88"III
  |_____  |      |   _____  |#| http://emporion.net/landrover.htm
  //---\\_|______|__//---\\ |_
[-<  o  >\_________/<  o  >\_]
   \___/             \___/

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:16:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

Re: Tropical roof colour:

Most if not all of those I've seen had the roof itself in limestone (a
colour well simulated by Rustoleum Antique White), and the sun sheet (the
bit above the roof) was natural aluminum, unpainted.

If it's already been painted white, you could do 1 of 2 things:

1. Remove it, strip it and reinstall.

2. Paint it to match again. If I were going to paint I think I'd go with
the limestone to match the original roof - seems more pleasing to me that
way.

Either, that, or a large Canadian flag would fit well....<grin>

                         Ajr

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From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 05:59:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

Good day,

Just out of curiousity, will dwell angle matter at all if ignition
timing is set dynamically (by strobe)? and if it does, why? and what
would be the typical dwell of a straight six?

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

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From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:03:51 +0100
Subject: Lost Brakes...

So, there we are again.

I rebuilt the brake cylinders (all 5 of them) on the SIIA 
a few weeks ago. Top braking then, hard pedal and all.

Since then, not driven much, maybe 80 miles, I registered
a slight loss in pedal, although the braking action was
still fine, no pumping required. Yesterday, I lost all
brakes.

What I find very strange, is that the top rim on the fluid
reservoir is filled with fluid. Which must have come out
the reservoir.

Checking the master cylinder from the outside, all seems
well and dry. 

I think I have seen a bit of a bubble out of the reservoir
cap while pushing the pedal.

So to me that suggests that instead of pressurizing the 
brake lines the pressure goes straight up to the reservoir.

That again points to a mis-functioning retaining seal in the master
cylinder (CB type, by the way).

I can only think of two possibilites here:  1) The seal is in 
the wrong way round, or 2) the seal is dead.

1) I put in the seal according to the green bible's "dismantling,
cleaning and re-assembling" section, with the cavity pointing 
towards the "Big Nut" at the end of the cylinder. Hmm. Looking at
the cut away drawing of the master a few pages earlier, it might
be constructed that the seal cavity should point towards the other,
pushrod end, thus allowing fluid to enter through the refilling 
holes. Still, I can't quite make sense why that should/would 
pressurize the reservoir.

2) Dead seal. Why is it dead? It was new, smeared with rubber grease
etc. It did lay assembled in the dry master cylinder for two weeks
or so. Now I read about wrong brake fluid eating rubber seals.
Hmm. Is there any common opinion about that? I was using DOT 3
fluid as recommended in the original Land Rover manual.

Sigh! 

Am I talking sense, or am I way out?

	thanks, and cheers from sunny Ireland, Axel

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 09:10:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

> Re: Tropical roof colour:
>The roof on both my '72 series lll (which I just sold) and my '68 lla have a 
limestone sunsheet the rest of it matches the body color

Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 98 07:08:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

There are basically two colour schemes used on the roofs of series Land 
Rovers.  The stationwagon colour scheme has a sides and roof the colour 
of the body and the "sun shade" limestone white.

The colourscheme used on non-stationwagons has the top all limestone 
white.

DuPont paint code # 38505 Any automotive paint shop should be able to 
research it and convert it to the brand of paint that they carry from 
that number.  Atlantic British carries the paint.  I'm not sure about 
regulations about shipping paint across the border though.

>When I get a bit of time, I'd like to lay a coat of paint on the white
>cover of my tropical roof.  Any suggestions about what kind of paint
>I should use on there (glossy vs flat, enamel vs rust paint)?  Also,
>the color of the cover is now an off-white, was the tropical roof when
>new a pure white color?  If so I'll paint it that color.  Thanks!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 10:47:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

>"Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> wrote:

>I prefer the fire and sawzall method...far more satisfying, and it really 
>clogs up the neighborhood with lots of thick black smoke!

I dunno...Bill may be onto something here...anything that is that much of a
pain to remove needs to be dealt with destructively. ;-)  The holesaw to
remove the rubber part of the bushing was a novel approach, tho'.

I've made a removal tool by welding a .401 pointed Parker shank tool into a
generic 13/16 socket.  (Someone else uses a 7/8" Craftsman - chose whatever
fits.)  Grab the air hammer and lay into it.  It'll remove all but the most
stubborn bushings in about five seconds and refit 'em (clean and coated
with anit-seize) in less than one.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:51:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

Dwell/timing

You have the cause and effect backwards........a miss-set dwell will give
you an errous timing reading. The dwell tells the contact points 'when' to
make and break (the same as the point gap setting, but more accurate).
Timing is based on the points being set accurately.

Tune up in this order:
Clean carb
run then stop
new plugs, wires, cap, condenser
new points - set to dwell of 52 degrees on a 2.25
new rotor
check/set carb

then check/set timing

timing is the last thing to play with after everything else is perfect.

Dwell on a six...........I would love to know with extreme accuracy from
anyone out there (any six cylinder performance guys?)......I believe it is
38-42 - What is yours now Lawrence?

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: Bill Morrow <wmmorrow@sover.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 11:00:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but there is a brokerage
service for on-line transactions.  You might want to visit them at:

	http://www.trade-direct.com/default.asp?R=c2k

I am not associated with them nor have I done business thru them(almost
once).  Their fees are 5% for transactions up to $3000.

They are bonded and insured and have the added attractio of even
allowing buyers to use credit cards(add 3%).

Bill Morrow

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:04:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Points/Ignition Series III Tach

This is the deal with the ignition.
Standard points collapse a field through a winding in the Coil.  The field
collapses when the points OPEN.  Points gapped at fully open is a standard
setting based on the design of the Point cam, which being known to the
designer will set the Dwell,  ( the amount in degrees of distributor shaft
turn that the designer wanted the electrical field to build up in the coil).
The next step beyond point gap setting is dwell setting which isn't really
that important for 4 cylinders.  This is the same as static timing first, then
dynamic timing after the engine is capable of being made to run.  I set the
point gap, knowing that my distributor is in pretty good shape. then I ignore
the dwell, set the static timing, then the Dynamic timing.  Then I listen for
Pre-ignition and occasionally vary the timing a little forward or back
depending how things are running.

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:23:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

Ignition,

Point gap is dwell, period end of story. adjusting one adjusts the other.
Point cam wear can alter the factory spec versus the actual worn part, but the
difference is almost always academic.  Dwell becomes much more important on
eight cylinder engines where the time available to build the electrical field
at the coil is much reduced.  On four or six cylinder Rovers, this should not
be a problem, especially if the rest of the ignition system is in decent
shape.  If you aer going to take your rover off road or very far from home, it
is well to remember that over 90% of the "mechanical" problems which will face
you are going to be electrical in nature.  Ignition is a much better suspect
than other mechanical Zebras.  (in diagnosis, first look for the horses,
Zebras are much less common.)

Zack Arbios
67 88" sw
87,88 RR

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:35:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

In a message dated 9/1/98 11:28:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Zaxcoinc@aol.com
writes:

<< you are going to be electrical in nature.  Ignition is a much better
suspect
 than other mechanical Zebras.  (in diagnosis, first look for the horses,
 Zebras are much less common.) >>

Unless you're on the African savannah.....

Nate

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:41:08 -0400 
Subject: RE: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

	> With all due respect;  phbtbthhbhbhthbhbtppbtptpt....:-)
	Smitty, thanks for that opinion...
> I don't know about everyone on the list, but I don't have a "club"
> anywhere near me...  
	Do you have a mailbox near you?
	> Even if I did, why would they want to have anything
> to do with people's private business transactions. 
	The donation or fee man.  It goes in the club's coffers...
	> If something were to go wrong, wouldn't they share some
responsibility in our great legal system?
	Not in my opinion... 
	> If someone decides they don't want to sell you something after
all,
> how is involving more people going to change that? 
	Well, you would get your money back... 

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:55:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

At 07:08 AM 9/1/98 -0700, TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> wrote:
:There are basically two colour schemes used on the roofs of series Land 
:Rovers.  The stationwagon colour scheme has a sides and roof the colour 
:of the body and the "sun shade" limestone white.
:
:The colourscheme used on non-stationwagons has the top all limestone 
:white.

 There must be at least three (or four) color schemes then, because on
 some models the wheels, roof and sides are painted Alpine White, a
 brighter white with no yellow tinge.  The use of Alpine White versus
 Limestone depends on the base body color, for instance, our 1972 Marine
 Blue Series III has Alpine White wheels, roof and sides.  I believe
 the Poppy Red Land Rovers also use Alpine White.  Any others?

-Michael

 50-80, 72-88, 89-RR
 55-404S Unimog 
 

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:58:03 -0400 
Subject: RE: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

Well, there ya go...if only I knew then what I know now.

Thanks Bill.

> I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but there is a
> brokerage
> service for on-line transactions.  You might want to visit them at:
> 	http://www.trade-direct.com/default.asp?R=c2k
> Bill Morrow

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:02:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

At 07:08 1998-09-01 -0700, you wrote:
>There are basically two colour schemes used on the roofs of series Land 
>Rovers.  The stationwagon colour scheme has a sides and roof the colour 
>of the body and the "sun shade" limestone white.
>The colourscheme used on non-stationwagons has the top all limestone 
>white.

At least my 1975 SIII 109" Stationwagon has got a limestone white sun shade
and also a limestone white roof which I am pretty sure is the original
coulor scheme. Should my wheels also be limestone? They are now black and I
would like them to look more original. Also my bumpers are black but what
is the original?

Peter 
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: "james howington" <jphowington@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 09:18:33 PDT
Subject: Re: Joining List

Welcome aboard!

Hope you enjoy the ride.

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:12:12 -0700
Subject: test ping

ping - sorry for the inconvenience, no messages have gone through

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net
           

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:17:59 -0700
Subject: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

Dwell/timing

You have the cause and effect backwards........a miss-set dwell will give
you an errous timing reading. The dwell tells the contact points 'when' to
make and break (the same as the point gap setting, but more accurate).
Timing is based on the points being set accurately.

Tune up in this order:
Clean carb
run then stop
new plugs, wires, cap, condenser
new points - set to dwell of 52 degrees on a 2.25
new rotor
check/set carb

then check/set timing

timing is the last thing to play with after everything else is perfect.

Dwell on a six...........I would love to know with extreme accuracy from
anyone out there (any six cylinder performance guys?)......I believe it is
38-42 - What is yours now Lawrence?

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 10:19:44 -0700
Subject: Lucas Ignition Systems-was Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

May I make a suggestion. Find a copy of;

 Tuning Lucas ingition systems

Published by Speedsport Motobooks (sic)
ISBN 0 85113 06 3 1

chapter 1 Ignition Coil - How it works
chapter 2 The Coil Itself - Function and Troubleshooting
chapter 3 Distributors - Contact Breaker, Centrifugal and Vacuum Advance,
                                     Condenser and Insulation
chapter 4 Leads and Spark Plugs
chapter 5 High Performance Engines
chapter 6 Transister Assisted Systems
chapter 7 Use of the Strobe Lamp
chapter 8 Troubleshooting
Appendix Test Data for Distributors

The whole book is 93 pages long, and is an easy read. The copy I have was
published in1972, I don't know if there are more current versions out there or
not.

Tom

	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 33 lines.]	

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@unimog.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 10:24:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

At 06:02 PM 9/1/98 +0200, you wrote:
>Should my wheels also be limestone? They are now black and I
>would like them to look more original. Also my bumpers are black but what
>is the original?

 Wheels should be Limestone, bumpers galvanized.

-Michael

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 13:47:38 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

>Most if not all of those I've seen had the roof itself in limestone (a 
>colour well simulated by Rustoleum Antique White), and the sun sheet (the 
>bit above the roof) was natural aluminum, unpainted.

Al, I think the sun reflecting off of the roof may have affected your eyesight. 
for an early IIA, i.e., headlights in grille, the sunsheet should be limestone, 
the roof itself and roofsides (and doortops) should be body color. Later IIa's 
or III's with limestone roof sides should have the entire mess painted 
limestone. If one wants to paint the roofsides body color then i don't think 
the purists will mnid if you revert to the earlier color scheme. This of course 
is all pertinent only to NAS land rovers. Don't know what the spec was for the 
UK. Generally it seems UK and US spec for body styles and colors were the same 
up until the headlights moved. From there on station wagons became a different 
thing here than in the UK. BTW if you want it to look right then go with the 
deluxe bonnet too folks.

ok?
later
daveb (traded trop top for roll-bar)

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:52:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

For what its worth, my 67 88 Station Wagon Safari top has original paint, is
limestone everywhere, in out, underside of tropical top, .... everywhere.
Wheels included.

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:07:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Dwell angle and Strobe Timing

I' ll look at my post, and I possibly got it wrong, 
but here's the deal, dwell is only adjustable by varying point gap.  Dwell
meter is more accurate, but has absolutely no relation ship to timing.  Point
gap and Dwell are the same thing, period.  One method of measuring can be more
accurate but dwell cannot be changed without varying point gap unless changing
the point cam.  

Dwell will remain the same whether the dist. is completely out of time with
the firing sequence of the engine.  

Timing sets where the spark occurs in the firing sequence.  Adjusting the
dwell will alter timing by setting the point where the ramp of the distributor
point cam opens the points. 

I am responding to posts which are curious about the timing being related to
full point opening (Which it isn't),  and hopefully helping out just a little.
The amount the points lift is not a quantity which has any importantance to
the running of the engine,  As long as they open at the appropriate place and
remain open long enough for they ignition system, all other things equal out.
Simple evidence is the amount of slop available in most distributors.
Interested parties should gap their points and then look at what happens when
they lean a little weight on the end of the Dist Shaft away and towards the
point cam.  

Zack Arbios

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

>For what its worth, my 67 88 Station Wagon Safari top has original paint, is 
>limestone everywhere, in out, underside of tropical top, .... everywhere. 
>Wheels included.

what color is the body?

later

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:16:26 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

 >>Wheels should be Limestone, bumpers galvanized.

were wheels ever body color on UK spec SIII's?

dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:10:04 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

>There must be at least three (or four) color schemes then, because on some 
>models the wheels, roof and sides are painted Alpine White,

I believe Alpine white is a Defender color.
tops were all limestone for the most part. paint DOES age differently in 
different parts of the world.
Keep in mind also previous owners may (you think?) have swapped stuff around.

later
dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:11:21 -0500
Subject: 75 SIII bumper color

>>. Also my bumpers are black but what is the original?

bumper ought to be galvanised. soak it in stripper or irish whicsky for a day 
or so.

later
daveb

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:39:21 -0700
Subject: Dwell - Timing

Dwell (point gap) sets the moment that the electricity flies down the wire
to the spark plug - correct? Yes.
The dynamic timing light is based on the electricity that is going to the
spark plug - i.e. you clamp the one lead on #1 wire - correct? Yes
If your dwell is out by a bit, you will get firing earlier or later.

Change your dwell or point gap, then check your timing, you will notice that
it moves! Yet you have not adjusted timing.

which effects which dictates the order in which you repair things.
Dwell effects timing - once again you must set the dwell (or point gap - as
you wish) BEFORE timing the engine. You can set the dwell with an engine out
of time. In my experience, dwell/points gap/points errors are 90% of the
cause for "timing" problems - an engine seldom goes out of time UNLESS you
have worn parts, jumped a gear or other such problems.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:54:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof?/wheels/

In a message dated 9/1/98 2:29:29 PM, dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org writes:

<< >>Wheels should be Limestone, bumpers galvanized.

were wheels ever body color on UK spec SIII's?>>

Doubt it. The factory would have had a hell'a hard time matching the left side
to the right side ;-) They'd end up with a number of left overs at the end of
a color run, then you'd get Red trucks with Blue wheels and a Limestone spare,
and it would become an instant collectors item...

 One color makes things so much simpler. look at the british army, even their
tires are green...

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:57:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof?

In a message dated 9/1/98 2:29:58 PM, dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org writes:

<<>For what its worth, my 67 88 Station Wagon Safari top has original paint,
is 
>limestone everywhere, in out, underside of tropical top, .... everywhere. 
>Wheels included.

what color is the body?>>

Yeah, good question. I'm left wondering that myself. Sounds like Earl Scheib
visited Solihull that day... ;-)

--pat.

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From: "A.G.Dolsa" <agdolsa@mx4.redestb.es>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:21:32 +0200
Subject: RE: ARO latest

I have some experience on 4x4 Aro .

They are the all terrain vehicles of worse quality that I have  known ,
together with the UAZ.

              ===============   Alfons G. Dolsa
             //  ||--------||   Entomologist
            //   ||        ||   Museum of Butterflies of Catalonia
   __####__//____||________||#| http://www.emporion.net/museu
  [-------/ -----Land Rover-|#| 86" - 88"III - 88"III
  |_____  |      |   _____  |#| http://emporion.net/landrover.htm
  //---\\_|______|__//---\\ |_
[-<  o  >\_________/<  o  >\_]
   \___/             \___/

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:23:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Dwell - Timing

Well Yes,... changing the dwell will affect the timing.  Dwell is the amount
of time in degrees that the points are open, or conversely closed.  One does
not have anything to do with the other (Timing and dwell) both may be adjusted
to whatever you want...  Changing timing does not affect dwell.  This is as it
is supposed to be.  Yes, set the dwell first then the timing because it is
easier that way, less monkey motion..  Setting the timing by adjusting the
point gap works on a primitive basis, it is most elegant and comfortable to
set the point gap and dwell while the engine is cold then get everything warm,
check and adjust idle etc.  

These things are not rocket science and the accuracy of most of the
adjustments is quite capable of varying while underway, this is why worn
distributors are a large contributor to the loss of tune in older engines.
The slop is also why some of these engines hunt at an idle or under changes in
load.  It is a system, not an absolute.  

The fact that it is a robust system is why most of us admire these beasts.  It
remains a fact that the most accurate timing consists of advancing the timing
until detonation occurs and then retarding the timing until slightly before
the point where detonation is detectable.  (detonation being referred to as
Ping, not explosions with shrapnel.  

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:27:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof?

Regarding Earl Sheibs' visit to Solihull the day they painted my 88,

I believe he was there conferring with Joe Lucas regarding Quality control and
convinced the Hon. Mr. Lucas that quality control was a great waste of time
and money.  Which apparently is a LR attitude through today....

Zack Arbios

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:19:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

At 02:10 PM 9/1/98, "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> wrote:
:>There must be at least three (or four) color schemes then, because on some 
:>models the wheels, roof and sides are painted Alpine White,
:
:I believe Alpine white is a Defender color.

 Yes it is, also for the Disco in 'modern' color schemes.  The paint
 may have the same name as an earlier version, but not the part number.

>tops were all limestone for the most part. paint DOES age differently in 
>different parts of the world.

 I've owned an all Limestone '72 88" for 16 years, and this new to me
 Marine Blue '72 88" definetly has Alpine White wheels and hardtop roof
 with sides.  The colors are distinctive, Limestone being near the hue
 of a manila file folder, and Alpine White being a tone off from a white
 sheet of paper.

 Paint does age, and so do I.  For color matching I seek out an undisturbed
 part of the object that has been covered and not exposed to light, small
 enough to be carried off to the paint store.  The underside of the D plate
 of the hi-low shifter works well, looks as new as the day it was painted.

>Keep in mind also previous owners may (you think?) have swapped stuff around.

 Nope, not on this truck.

-Michael Carradine

 50-80"  Bronze Green, not to be confused with the '60-70's Bronze Green.
 72-88"  Marine Blue with Alpine White wheels, roof top and sides, not
         to be confused with the Defender and Disco Alpine White.
 89-RR   Savannah Beige metallic, often mistakenly referred to as Light
         Brown.

 

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:18:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Lost Brakes...

In message <bulk.28353.19980901060833@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Axel Pawlik
<axelpawlik@tinet.ie> writes

Get rid of the CB type cylinder they are crap. When we built my V8
trialer the bulkhead that we used had a LWB CB type on it which was
shot. 
we replaced it with a new CB type and the brakes still did not work
properley, so we spoke to a man who knows and he told us to throw the 
CB type away and use the CV type. The end story is that with the CV type
fitted the brakes have worked for the past 18 months or so without any
major problems.
 
-- 
andy Smith
1965 swb V8 
1971 swb 2.25P

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 13:46:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Color for trop roof? 

My '71 SIIA 88" (pastel green) has an Alpine White Hardtop and wheels...
no safari top, tho

Todd

At 01:19 PM 9/1/98 -0700, you wrote:
snip
> I've owned an all Limestone '72 88" for 16 years, and this new to me
> Marine Blue '72 88" definetly has Alpine White wheels and hardtop roof
> with sides.  The colors are distinctive, Limestone being near the hue
> of a manila file folder, and Alpine White being a tone off from a white
> sheet of paper.
...
>-Michael Carradine
> Marine Blue '72 88" definetly has Alpine White wheels and hardtop roof
end snip

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 13:50:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Ignition Systems-was Dwell angle and Strobe

No Joy at Amazon nor HotBot looking for "Tuning Lucas ignition systems"

Todd

At 10:19 AM 7/1/98 -0700, you wrote:
>May I make a suggestion. Find a copy of;
> Tuning Lucas ingition systems
>Published by Speedsport Motobooks (sic)
>ISBN 0 85113 06 3 1
>chapter 1 Ignition Coil - How it works

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>The whole book is 93 pages long, and is an easy read. The copy I have was
>published in1972, I don't know if there are more current versions out
there or

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 16:59:56 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: Color for trop roof?  

 >>I've owned an all Limestone '72 88" for 16 years, 
 
 Wasn't this one in a fire or something? Might have changed the tone a 
 bit. Is it up and running now?
 
 later
 

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 17:01:30 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: Color for trop roof?  

>My '71 SIIA 88" (pastel green) has an Alpine White Hardtop and wheels... 
>no safari top, tho

>Todd

I think you guys are getting confused.

ther ain't no way in god's creation that LR would have painted late IIa roofs 
more than one color. Just wasn't in their MO at that time.
they were all factory limestone. end of story.

dave

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 17:12:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Color for trop roof?

>My '71 SIIA 88" (pastel green) has an Alpine White Hardtop and wheels... 
>no safari top, tho
>Todd
I think you guys are getting confused.

ther ain't no way in god's creation that LR would have painted late IIa roofs 
more than one color. Just wasn't in their MO at that time.
they were all factory limestone. end of story.

dave

NUFF SAID    :^)
RGDS, Rick

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From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:26:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

Michael Carradine wrote:

>  50-80"  Bronze Green, not to be confused with the '60-70's Bronze Green.
>  72-88"  Marine Blue with Alpine White wheels, roof top and sides, not...

Mike,

Is the paint code for '50s Bronze Green different than the '60-70s Bronze Green?
Is it the latter that is on your website?  If they are different, do you have 
the
code for the earlier version?

Frank

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From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:41:06 +0100
Subject: RE:steering freeplay

Try to check where the freeplay is.  This can be done by having someone turning 
the wheel and the other one checking the various steering components.

One possible cause can be the steering cross coupling which is in the linking 
from the stearing wheel to the power steering.

Check also the tie rod ends for play and also if there is oil in the system.

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

Luis Manuel Gutierrez:

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From: "Alberto Guimarães" <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:43:08 -0700
Subject: RR question

Hi all,I have a 1992 two doors RR, with a 2500 Turbo Diesel VM engine. I'm very 
happy with it, but lately I've been noticing that the height of the car isn't 
the same in all ends. In the back, the distance to the ground in the right side 
is smaller than in the left.
Already asked the local LR dealer and they answered that it was a
 characteristic of this cars. Is this correct? Or should I verify it 
better?^M^MGreetings from Portugal^MAlberto Guimaraes ^Ma.guimaraes@mailcity.com
Member of the Land Rover Club of Portugal

Now MailCity offers forwarding so you can check your MailCity messages and 
other e-mail all in one place.  Go to http://www.mailcity.com

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:28:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Bronze Greens 

At 02:26 PM 9/1/98 -0700, "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
:>  50-80"  Bronze Green, not to be confused with the '60-70's Bronze Green.
:>  72-88"  Marine Blue with Alpine White wheels, roof top and sides, not...
:
:Is the paint code for '50s Bronze Green different than the '60-70s
:Bronze Green?

 Yes, I am told it is.

:Is it the latter that is on your website?

 Yes, the later Bronze Green is at  www.landrover.net/paint

:If they are different, do you have the code for the earlier version?

 Sorry Frank, I don't have a code or know if a paint code even
 exists for the early Bronze Green or Light Green.  Apparently the
 Light Green was WWII surplus material used to paint the inside of
 fighter airplane cockpits.  The Dark Green came later, maybe from
 a tractor color or the Rover sedan cars of the era.

 Mike Green at 925-606-8301 had the color matched for powder coating
 the 86" frame he's working on (took him two tries!).  Now he ordered
 spray paint matched for the body.  I'll wait and see how it turns
 out and compare it to the seatbox behind the door of our '50 80"
 before ordering any.  DuPont and other manufacturers initially had
 their paint matched to LR colors, then assigned numbers to their
 formulations that they keep on record.  It costs about $30-50 to
 have the paint matched, but it is still the preferred method.

 Tower Paint will match paint and send you spray cans, as will most
 paint shops.  They mix up a quart from which they then fill cans,
 one or more, up to 6-8 cans, whenever you need them.

-Michael 
  

 

 

  

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 20:15:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Bronze Greens

In a message dated 9/1/98 6:31:34 PM, cs@landrover.net writes:

<<Apparently the
 Light Green was WWII surplus material used to paint the inside of
 fighter airplane cockpits.  The Dark Green came later, maybe from
 a tractor color or the Rover sedan cars of the era.>>

You can still see it being used. Ever fly Continental or TWA? take a peek in
the cockpit of those DC-9's, sure looks like the same paint... (although most
WWII vintage fighter's I've seen were painted black in their cockpits,
probably done recently due to that surplus supply running out...)

 <<Mike Green at 925-606-8301 had the color matched for powder coating
 the 86" frame he's working on (took him two tries!). >>

Mr. *Green*, how appropriate. ;-) 

Whaddya wanna bet the paint store clerk was Joe Brown? Or maybe it was that
former mountaineer and *alpinist*, Mr. White...

--pat.

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 20:46:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

In a message dated 98-09-01 12:01:24 EDT, you write:

<< Well, there ya go...if only I knew then what I know now. >>

    What are you talking about?  What would have that changed?  A guy changed
his mind about selling.  You lost no money, correct?  
    I thought in America, a man can change his mind about anything.  Land of
the Free and all that, or is that just a line in a song?

Enzo

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 21:22:49
Subject: RE: PTT ETC.

>With all due respect;  phbtbthhbhbhthbhbtppbtptpt....:-)
>I don't know about everyone on the list, but I don't have a "club"
>anywhere near me.

Where are you? This might be a good time to start one. 

Jim Wolf

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 21:47:26 -0400
Subject: Perkins 4 203

The Perkins 4 203 ( 4 cylinder 203 cubic inches, approx 3.2 litres ) is an
agricultural / industrial engine, most commonly fitted to tractors and fork
lift trucks, some were fitted to Dodge ? commer commercial vehicles in the
UK, the  maximum revs are 2600 rpm which means that a standard geared 88  on
600 tyres would have a top speed of 40 miles per hour. it would do this up a
1 in  1 grade.  They are heavy, noisy and long lasting, weak on valve heads
and cylinder liners. In order to make them useful in a Land Rover it is
necessary to change the gearing, this strains an already weak transmission.
I opertated  one for a short period, it was capable of 90 miles an hour, on
the governor in overdrive top, I was regularly able to average 70 miles an
hour for the 200 miles from London to Yorkshire until one day it pulled the
cylinder liner and died.  One big problem was the oversize tyres were like
huge flywheels and the brakes were therefore useless. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 98 21:18:34      
Subject: Re: Perkins 4 203

William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> wrote:
 
> The Perkins 4 203 ( 4 cylinder 203 cubic inches, approx 3.2 litres ) is an
> agricultural / industrial engine, most commonly fitted to tractors and fork
> lift trucks, some were fitted to Dodge ? commer commercial vehicles in the
snip

Perkins also made a vehicular version of the 4.203 (I have one), but they don't 
turn 
much faster. I suggest 750x16 tires, overdrive and RR diffs if you fit one. 
Unless
of course you are building an off-roader, in which case top speed is less 
important 
than crawling and gobs of torque at low revs.

Tom Rowe
Madison, WI
trowe@ibm.net

Four wheel drive allows you to get
stuck in places even more inaccessible

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:24:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

Paint colors listed in '64 & '68 parts books include both Limestone and
Off White. A '61 SI parts book doesn't list either.

Our '60 SII 88 SW was purchased from the original owner. Body was
originally red with a white tropical roof. While the red was repainted
by original owner (with a brush) blue, the tropical roof paint appears
to be original, and is white, not limestone. The entire body other than
the tropical roof panel was originally red. I've seen one or two other
SII/early SIIA SW's with white tropical roofs.

The only sales literature I can find which calls out color combinations
is from '66/'67 and late SIIA. It calls for limestone tropical roof
panels.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:28:17 -0400
Subject: Wheel Colors

Mid-'60s and late IIA sales literature state that wheels were Limestone
except for:
Bronze Green body had Bronze Green wheels
Red body had Red wheels
Mist Coat Grey body had Primer wheels

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Cutler Family <cutler_family@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 20:39:19 -0600
Subject: RE: How do you set headlights?

Charles Wolfe wanted to know how to set (aim) his new Hellas.  Check out
the explanation given at
http://www2.land-rover.team.net/Repairs/lighting.faq.html
under the title "Aiming Head Lamps (Main beams).

Thanks.
Keith
'60 SWB Truck Cab awaiting its new Turner

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From: "Peter Hope" <shdwrvr@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 07:27:29 -0700
Subject: Re: D90 Pictures

>>From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
>>Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:29:51 -0500
>>Subject: D90 pictures
>>Does anyone know where I can find any pictures of a pre-1986 D90.

I just wanted to mention that the "Defender" name/badging was not introduced
until 1989, so if the one your looking at has these badges, I would suspect
something.  Before 89 the vehicle should have a "Land Rover 90" badge on the
front, above the radiator
grill.
The 110 model was released in the 1983 model year, but the 90 model was not
introduced until June 1984, so a pre-86 mean an 85.  The wheel base on the
90 is actually 92.9 inches.  Prior to this they were still Stage I, Series
III, 88's with leave springs.  Also these 88's continued to be produced
until the summer of 85.
In 85 the vehicle only came with the LT230R transfer case in full time 4wd,
the LT77 5 speed transmission, and had either the 2.3 petrol or the 2.5
diesel engine.  The 2.5 petrol was not released until the 86 model year, the
same year the 90 was first offered with the 3.5 V-8 and the diesel turbo.
The vehicle had disk front and drum rear brakes and was offered in 4 body
styles.
According to the book written by James Taylor, "Land Rover since 1983", the
number for the first 90 released in June of 94 was 213333.  229956 begining
January 1985, and 256593 in January 1986.  The number would be in the form
SALLDV@%*BA###### where
@= A or B for body style
%=Letter for engine option
*= Number for LHD or RHD and transmission option (7 would be RHD 5 spd, 8
LHD)
###### = the above mentioned series number
This same book has a couple of good pictures in it.  I am in the middle of a
move, otherwise I would scan them and e-m them to ya.
Hope the info has helped.
Pete
Still looking for my 88 and the wife is helping, haha

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:06:09 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 9/1/98 9:24:11 PM, J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net writes:

<<>With all due respect;  phbtbthhbhbhthbhbtppbtptpt....:-)
>I don't know about everyone on the list, but I don't have a "club"
>anywhere near me.
Where are you? This might be a good time to start one. >>

I've got one, a club that is. Keep it behind the center console.

Started it in my friend's woodworking shop. Made it to measure.

I highly recommend anyone without a club to go out and start your own, time's
passing. The satisfaction of having your own club, whose direction you alone
control, is great. It can also have many functions, among them, persuading
hesitant sellers to part with the bleedin' part (no pun intended).

Oh, a Land-Rover Club... in that case, just buy an aluminum baseball bat,
paint it "Bronze Green" and drip some 90wt on it; it'll look like a "LR Club"
 ;-)
--pat.

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From: Art Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 00:57:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Wanted: used S3 petrol starter in US

Greetings,

Anyone have a used (working nicely, of course) S3 starter? The later type
without the band around the brushes. Please email directly.

Thanks,
Art
'72 S3 88
'69 TR6 PI
Boston, MA
USA

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From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:34:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: (clubs)

---SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
 In a message dated 9/1/98 9:24:11 PM, J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net writes:
\ Where are you? This might be a good time to start one. >>
A very sensible solution, but I'm at a little place called Ramstein.
The problem with being in the military is no one stays at any one
place for too long. Last year there were only three or four Rovers
here, I think this year it has probably doubled to six or seven (most
of these are with the British contingent on base). Next year that
number could drop back down to one or two. Of course I could start my
own personal club, but then I would get stuck always buying the beer
and having to listen to my own stories.....;-)     Maybe not enough
Rovers? The other problem would be where I work. I would hardly ever
be around to do much. 200+ days gone the last two years....:-)  Combat
Comm..first in, last out...hua

\ I've got one, a club that is. Keep it behind the center console.
I have an old cricket bat for just such things, it confuses the hell
out of  people  who have never seen one before
Smitty

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From: SFmms@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 01:55:10 EDT
Subject: Poly vs Standard bushes

Hi All:

I am considering replacing the 23 year old springs and the original bushes on
my SIII 88 in the near future. I have heard both good and bad things about
aftermarket springs and polyurethane bushes. I would appreciate some feedback
regarding peoples experiences with these items as opposed to genuine springs
and the standard rubber bushes.

Thanks in advance,

Karen Sindir - sfmms@aol.com
'74 SIII 88 Red Rufy
'95 Disco EFE

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 02:05:26 EDT
Subject: Re: (clubs)

In a message dated 98-09-02 01:46:18 EDT, you write:

<<  (most
 of these are with the British contingent on base). >>

     You can just tell all those British chaps that it is a requiremant that
they join the club. Yea, you could even collect dues! Cash and Rovers to off
road with! Or make them bring the beer! (Or some of that cider! Wicked stuff!)

Rover on...

Steve 

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 01:15:48 -0500
Subject: RE: How do you set headlights?

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 01:17:12 -0500
Subject: loose hub caps

	Is there a trick to getting a loose hub cap tight?

	Cwolfe 

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 02 Sep 1998 08:47:07 +0200
Subject: Re: Color for trop roof?

How about aluminium details which are left nonpainted on the body? I have
seen pictures of cars with and without such unpainted details. I mean the
aluminium around the tail lamps and such. My 1975 SIII Stationwagon have
these painted and I would like to know how it originally looked like.  

Peter
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:49:49 -0700
Subject: loose hub caps - fix

I learned it the other day from a fellow here in Seattle - Gord'n uses tape
(masking) on the inside of the cap to hold the loose ones on and make them
leak proof.
I used duct tape (standard issue) on my loose one - seems to work quite
well, prevents them flying off at 70 or being knocked off by shrubs.
You could do like everyone else and buy new ones................

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.7 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 06:08:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Bronze Greens

In a message dated 02/09/98 01:17:26 BST, you write:

<< Or maybe it was that
 former mountaineer and *alpinist*, Mr. White... >>
you snowing us, Pat?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 06:08:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Bronze Greens

In a message dated 01/09/98 23:31:34 BST, you write:

<< Sorry Frank, I don't have a code or know if a paint code even
  exists for the early Bronze Green or Light Green.  Apparently the
  Light Green was WWII surplus material used to paint the inside of
  fighter airplane cockpits.  The Dark Green came later, maybe from
  a tractor color or the Rover sedan cars of the era.
  >>

I can confirm the lioght green was surplus colour. Never have been able to
find out about the dark green.

Do you have Tekaloid in the States? I paint my vehicle with Tekaloid 'Land
Rover Dark Bronze Green' (sorry no number) which is a match for the Ser 1
Bronze Green.
Up until the early 60s the Dark Brinze Green varied hardly at all.
We've looked into sending a few tins to friends in the US and Australia but
shipping of paint is tough as it is inflammable.
Best of luck getting a decent match IMV the ONLY colour for a Land Rover!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 06:08:24 EDT
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

In a message dated 02/09/98 04:12:41 BST, you write:

<<  just buy an aluminum baseball bat, >>
dunno about USlaws but if we (UK) carry a baseball bat without a ball, it is
an offensive weapon and we can be nicked (UK for arrested). However, carry a
tennis ball or whatever as well and we're ok. 
The Law is a wot???

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Markus Korth <mkorth@systline.de>
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:26:07 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

 > <<  just buy an aluminum baseball bat, >>
 > dunno about USlaws but if we (UK) carry a baseball bat without a ball, it is
 > an offensive weapon and we can be nicked (UK for arrested). However, carry a
 > tennis ball or whatever as well and we're ok. 

Similar here in Germany...

Ciao
 Markus

-- 
Markus Korth              |      SYSTline 
mkorth@systline.de        |      Heiden Lemmermann 
Essen/Germany             |      Systemhaus GmbH
Key fingerprint = FA 10 36 1E A1 F7 F3 02  0D A9 14 60 A8 51 E4 D3

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 11:28:24 +0000
Subject: Re: PTT ETC. (clubs)

dunno about USlaws but if we (UK) carry a baseball bat without a ball, it is
>an offensive weapon and we can be nicked (UK for arrested).
That's because we're English,Frank.Everyone knows we only play rounders.
You could carry a cricket bat,though.Makes just as good a weapon.And someone
might just offer you a game as well.....

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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