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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:12:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Series III Tach

>         I may have the dipswitchs set incorrectly.  I have the wire to the
> gauge from the low tension lead side of the coil.  Is the Series III coil
> system what is refered to as a "pulse" system?  Or did you set your tach for
> a normal 4cyl. motor?  If it is a pulse system does anyone know the rate of
> pulse per second?  Thanks again....

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> pulse per second?  Thanks again....
>                                                         Hank

Hank-

I set mine up for 4 cylinders-works fine!

Art

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From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:18:30 -0400
Subject: Removing Chassis Bushes

In order to fit polybushes on my series IIa, I had to remove the
existing chassis bushes.  Tom Bache came up with an excellent tool
for the job.  Its an OTC 7248 bushing press (we are located in the
NE USA: I'm not sure if these are available worldwide).  In order
to apply force to the outside sleeve of the bushing we needed a suitable
diameter plug, and found that a 7/8" Sears Craftsman socket (1/2" drive,
shallow, 6pt) did the trick (but check carefully before you try, since
a long socket from the same company was just too wide to fit).  With
the OTC press (and some care in lining everything up) the bushes
press out in no time at all.

Peter Monk

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:08:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

I prefer the fire and sawzall method...far more satisfying, and it really 
clogs up the neighborhood with lots of thick black smoke!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:07:16 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

In a message dated 8/31/98 10:04:10 AM, Bill Adams wrote:

<<I prefer the fire and sawzall method...far more satisfying, and it really 
clogs up the neighborhood with lots of thick black smoke!>>

That must be an affliction that comes with ownership of a LR like Bill's...
(109 Diesel)

--pat.

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:46:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Rancho Shocks

Luis ,
I installed the RS 9000's on my D90, not for their ajustability but for
their extended travel. But I have found their ajustability to be very
advantageous. At different loads and different driving conditions the shocks
can be set to different dampening levels, whether it be the entire vehicle
or just the front (added winch & bullbars) or just the rear (extra large and
heavy loads) Or highway use compared to off- road use.
Chris "V"

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:43:26 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Ser IIa and PCV valves 

>Rover began installing PCV valves on NADA Land-Rovers (Ser IIa) in 
>approximately 1964/1965.  hose.  My '65 88 had this system, and I 
>think I have seen a few '64's with it.

really? Are you sure this equipment wasn't a retrofit?

maybe a later engine? what year did the US start requiring such things?

later

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:40:00 -0500
Subject: Re: What winds, indeed 

>> the Bootsucker Bog is now *open water* with fish living in it.

excellent. more wildlife to be squished under my Dunlops...

opps, that wasn't very PC was it...

oh well 

later

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:03:37 EDT
Subject: Engine choices?

Anyone care to check my options for engine / replacements in a 4-cylinder
Dormobile?

1	Stay with original/replacement
		Automotive Concepts (?  they advertise in LROI.  One Dormie 
owner in the
northwest US has one and apparently loves it.  He could easily keep up with me
in northern AZ but I couldn't tell how hard he was pushing it.)
		Turner
		Local rebuilder
2	Scotty's adapter (how much work to put one in w/ 4-cyl bulkhead?)

3.	Other adapters if suitable engines can be sourced in the US.

Goal:  cruise a Dormobile with ease at 60 MPH.  I have a Turner in Tigger and
can easily go 65 to 70.  I'm afraid the extra weight of a 109 wouldn't work.  

Transmission mods:  I don't plan to use an overdrive but will use the
Ashcroft's transfer case solution.  Any comments?  Anyone done one?

Time to start making serious plans to begin working on HD as the weather cools
down!  High today is supposed to only be 108.  Friday, it was 114... lovely
drive home in Tigger.  Should have stopped and purchased a roast on the way
home.  It would have been done..... I was!

Later....
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'73 Series III "Tigger"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces)
'95 Disco "Great White"

Thanks!
Gerry

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:09:00 +0200
Subject: HOT/COLD cable and levers

Adjusting the HOIT/COLD lever is a seasonal task. The problem is, that
the travel of the lever (and cable) is less than the travel of the valve
which it operates.

This means, that if you adjust the wire incorrectly, you end up with the
valve either not closing fully, or not opening fully. I have decided
that, in the winter, I will live with it not closing fully, whilst in
the summer, I will live with it not opening fully.

Logic? follow me...

In the summer -
Loosen the grub screw which holds the cable into the valve arm. Set the
lever on the dash to COLD, manually push the valve arm to close (down),
and whilst holding it in position, tighten the grub screw.

In the winter -
Loosen the grub screw which holds the cable into the valve arm. Set the
lever on the dash to HOT, manually push the valve arm to open (UP), and
whilst hoilding it in position, tighten the grub screw.

I usually do this about the same time as we set the clocks back and
forward :-)

It does help, once in a millenium, to remove the cable from the car,
remove the inner cable and clean it, light emery cloth/sandpaper, and a
squirt of WD40, The same with the out spiral - soak in petrol, and blow
clean with an airline, (mind your eyes) and light lubrication with WD40

To clean the outer if it's really clogged with rust and crud, hold the
spiral in a vice, oil the inners, and insert the wire, then grip the
wire tightly in the chuck of a battery drill, pushing the wire into the
spiral so that there is not more than 1/2 inch sticking out, and rotate
rapidly with the drill, thius loosening the cable and spiral.

When using WD40 as a lubricant, it works best if all rust is removed, so
that WD40 does not run reddish brown, but clear.

Do not oil or grease these parts, they will absorb dust and crud, the
oil will be washed out when you wash the car, the dust and crud will
absorb water, and the corrosion and crud-pack will be back again.

The same with the lever mechanism - clean the levers and moving parts,
remove all crud, and lightly lubricate with WD40.

I don't know why, but the spiral and cable is always too short for it to
be a tidy arrangement - usually (even with a new cable) the cable rubs
against the rocker cover, intake manifold and breather lever, and the
oil breather cap. Maybe it's becasue the cable was originally
dimensioned for RHD? I would love to find a source of a similar, but 8"
longer cable.

Funnily enough, the grub screw is not a supplied part when you order the
bush which grips the cable in the valve arm - typical. I usually have to
rethread the bush to 4mm.

Of course, this process and attention to detail assures you that your
cable and levers work properly, but whether you get any heat when you
want it, or any cold when you don't, is another matter. I still suspect
that the valve outlet and hose dimensions limit the throughput
efficiency of the heater element - I am sure that a larger hose and
valve, bringing the entire loop up to the inside diameter of the heater
element inlets and outlets, would work wonders for the freezin'
tootsies. Any experience  on this one out there?

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 98 09:20:49 -0700
Subject: Re: No oil in swivel

 Be sure to check the wheel bearings over real well if they were not 
packed in grease.

I once saw an 88's front bearings sieze to it's spindle because the guy 
was in a hurry and didn't check fluids.  The spindle resavor was empty 
and the front wheel bearings were not packed in grease.  I understand 
that he had to replace a passle of parts on that side.

Lockout hubs do not keep the wheel bearings from spinning.  

>Thanks to TeriAnn, David, and William for the info. I actually didn't
;>tell you the whole story. I continued 4-wheeling for 2 more days, and
;>then drove 150 miles home. I do have lockout hubs, so the highway
;>shouldn't have hurt anything. One of the holes was stripped out during
;>the subsequent 4-wheeling, so I retapped it and put in a 1/2" NF bolt
;>when I got home. I will order studs for the other 3. My friend in the
;>Bronco was impressed that the rover could be fixed, let alone that I
;>could continue torturing it on the trail.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:34:11 +0200
Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers

Grease is great - whilst it lasts - when it turns to wax, or gets washed
out to be replaced by rust - then it's not happy! OK - Horses for
Courses...

As to cycle brake cables - I have thought of this but discarded the
idea, beacuse brake cables pull, whilst the LR version is a push/pull.
OK a spring on the valve could fix the push, but I had dubbed this
ironware as being too flimsy for the job. maybe...

As to lawn-mowers - well i have a mower with self-powered back wheels,
operated by a belt tension clutch using a cable to the handlebar. This
has broken three times a year for the last five years. No cable seems to
be able to take the strain. Bad design. Actually, I am cosidering
mounting the Landy HOT/COLD cable onto my mower.

The landy unit works fine, its just that for us LHD'ers, I would like it
to be eight inches longer, so that I could lay the cable more tidyly
under the bonnet.

What is needed is a titanium wire in a teflon-lined carbon fibre tube,
held in place by bronze chassis mounts. The valve should be
magnesium/titanium allow, the operating handles should be carbon fibre,
though tipped with hand-carved ivory knobs with hot/cold icons engraved.
Of cousre the water should probably be distilled or blessed. If the
Series III had been built by Lockheed for the USAF, this would probably
be the case. Extra bottle jack, withstands 9G, price $52,652.42c or
something like that!

I could always move the motor back to slacken the cable I guess?

Adrian Redmond

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:09:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Shipping help !!!

Fed X will take longer and larger (and heavier) packages but they only offer
next day ; 2 day and now 3 day economy freight (to some business location)
and their dimensional weight is more costly than UPS's dimensional air
cargoes (LxWxH divided by1.94 for Fed X ; UPS is LxWxH divided by 1.89). You
can also call AEI  1-800-234-2778; or Team Air 1800-877-1531; or Modern
Express 1-718-656-6044
Chris "V"
-From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Subject: Shipping help !!!

>I just bought a fibreglass top from my D90 Softtop. but UPS will not

deliver
>it. It's too big!

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Shipping help !!!

If you want to do surface (or and LTL carries my business does this(Mail
Boxes Etc. ) for the nearest one to you for a quote call 1800-789-4 MBE Tell
them it's to large for UPS and you want them to get a quote from TSI (it our
in-house oversized carrier) tell them that A Center owner gave you the info
and they will do the price hunting for you . Or if you want I can arrange it
for you .
Chris "V"

>Marc-Andre Leger wrote:
>> I just bought a fibreglass top from my D90 Softtop. but UPS will not

deliver
>> it. It's too big!
> [ truncated by lro-lite (was 15 lines)]

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:16:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

I use a hole saw to saw through the rubber first, then a hacksaw or sawzall to
go through the outer part of the bushing. Just remember to take the pilot bit
out of the holesaw before you chuck it into your drill.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

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From: "Fred Herman" <hfherman@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:21:27 PDT
Subject: Rover envy

This past weekend I saw the ultimate in Land Rover envy.  I was driving 
down the street in Northern Virginia when an old style Isuzu Trooper 
passed me.  All of the Isuzu badging was removed and replaced with Land 
Rover emblems.  Seems like the hard way to get a "Land Rover".
Fred Herman
67 SIIa 109 SW

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:23:19 -0400
Subject: RE: Rover envy

I think I my have seen the same one here in King Of Prussia, PA.  Did he
have the Land Rover spare tire cover?

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 11:55:30 -0700
Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers

At 06:34 PM 9/1/98 +0200, you wrote:

>As to cycle brake cables - I have thought of this but discarded the
>idea, beacuse brake cables pull, whilst the LR version is a push/pull.
>OK a spring on the valve could fix the push, but I had dubbed this
>ironware as being too flimsy for the job. maybe...

Actually, the shifters on most bicycles these days are Push/Pull.  Being
very sensitive to position, the shifters require consistant travel and
minimal friction.  Additionally, Gore-Tex lined cable housing (for further
minimized friction) is available.  I have never used, but would lend itself
nicely to LR applications.

bboT

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:09:33 -0400
Subject: RE: HOT/COLD cable and levers

I think Shimano makes the Gore-Tex line cable.  The cables themselves work
great and I've never had a cable rust when using the Gore-Tex lined cables.
Any other cable would have already rusted. (on my bike, that is)  The cable
is very easy to route and comes in pretty long lengths.

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:11:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Shipping help !!!

AEI and Team Air, are mainly international freight forwarders/customs brokers,
and they can be expensive.

Try Yellow Freight/Roadway, or one of those trucking companies.

Charles

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:14:22 -0400
Subject: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

As I promised to do on 8/17/98, here are my comments and suggestions for
making parts transactions between LRO List members a more 'trusted
domain', (if you will allow me a network related term).

My comments:

Many of you will remember my former message in which I described a parts
transaction gone bad between two list members.  
To briefly summarize, I was the buyer.  The seller however changed his
mind and did not sell me the items, as had been previously agreed to.  

In response to that message, I counted 36 replies from other LRO List
members.  35 of those messages were positive (only one was negative).

I have typed/talked to some of you off line and bounced some of my ideas
around.  
My thanks to those of you who listened and even contributed your own
ideas.  You know who you are.
So, in order to improve the nature of parts or vehicle transactions
between LRO List members, making future transactions more reliable  (and
hopefully making a positive experience out of a negative one), I would
like to make the following suggestion.

My suggestion:

I propose that the Secretaries of the various Rover Clubs, (or ANARC as
the club of clubs), act as an escrow agent between buyer and seller.

Here's a typical scenario:

1.  Buyer and seller could agree on a transaction, then communicate it
to the appropriate Club Secretary.
2.  Buyer would send a certified check or money order to the club sec.,
payable to the seller (including a prepaid, pre-addressed envelope to
the seller)  
3.  Club Sec. would simply hold the funds until satisfactory delivery is
accomplished.  
4.  Seller checks in w/ club sec. to verify that check has arrived.
Once confirmed, he ships parts to the buyer.  
5.  Buyer then notifies club sec. all is "OK" on receipt of parts. (any
disputes must be resolved by the buyer and seller - the club cannot act
as a referee)
6.  Club Sec. drops the check into the mail to the seller.  

This would/could be a service provided to club members by the various
[spamkill: small fee input: %s]	 clubs.  Clubs might even charge a small fee or 
request a 'donation' for

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:24:29 -0400
Subject: RE: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

Hopefully, the club will have some form of commercial insurance.  If there
are 36 transactions and one is bad, that bad one could cause a lawsuit that
names the opposing party as well as the club.

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

[spamkill: small fee input: %s]	 > clubs.  Clubs might even charge a small fee 
or request a 'donation' for

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:24:59 -0400
Subject: test - please ignore

test post - please ignore

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From: Casey McMullen <st93wxta@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: HOT/COLD cable and levers

They are called Gore "RideOn" cables, I've never used them but have 
heard from other mtn. bikers that they are pretty nice.  As far as I know 
most bike shifters are still pull only.  That is, the derailleur is held to 
one end of the gear cluster by a spring, and when you shift it pulls 
the derailleur across the gears.  The wires used are multistrand so they 
might not do for push/pull, also the wires are coated w/Gore-Tex 
themselves, so replacing with stiff wire wouldn't be as beneficial.  Also 
the housings have a plastic sheath which might not stand up to much abuse 
under a bonnet.  
It still may be possible, worth trying.  They are supposed to be 
maintenance free (on a Rover? never!)
More info: http://www.gore.com/rideon/

Casey
'72 sIII 88
'94 Jamis eXplorer, wearing slicks as my "daily driver"
casey@drexel.edu
http://httpsrv.ocs.drexel.edu/undergrad/st93wxta/

According to Todd Schlemmer:

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:29 -0500
Subject: RE: Shipping help !!!

> Try Yellow Freight/Roadway, or one of those trucking companies.

I worked for ABF for a while on the dock... I'll never ship anything with   

any trucking company... The guys who are handingyour stuff are crazy...
Unless it's something industrial or in well packaged boxes... ie 200   
liter
barrels or crates of stereo equipment, it's gonna get thrown around,
scratched, etc, and there's NO insurance... something like $0.07 on the
pound or something silly like that. I would not trust them with something
that has glass in it, definately...

So far the best bet sounds like the Boxes, Etc thing...

 -Scott  

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From: Wen-Kai Hsiao <hsiao@MIT.EDU>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:36:50 -0400
Subject: 61 Land Rover Series IIa 88 with Perkin 4-203 Diesel Conversion

Hi, all,

This is the first time I e-mail to this list.  I have some urgent
questions that I want to ask.  Hopefully, some kind souls out there can
help me out.

I have a chance to purchase a RHD 61 Series IIa 88 with a Perkins 4-203
diesel conversion.  The paint on the frame is mostly chipped, and there
are some surface rusts ( I poked most of it with a screwdriver and the
metals seem to be solid.  The paint on the body is chipped as well, but
is presentable.  My question is: is the Perkins conversion common?  Does
it add or reduce the value of the vehicle?  Does diesel Rover always
shake like crazy at idle (or it just feels that way)?  Is there anything
else that I should look for?  

Thanks,

Wayne H.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 21:43:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

The idea of a club as go between sounds nice - but would it work?

I guess any club can see the logic in your suggestion, but would any
club accept the responsibility? And if the club acted without assuming
any responsibility, would their participation offer any protection.

When a financial institution act as guarantor or  issue a completion
bond, they take a responsibility, charge a fat fee, and accept the risk
that if all turns sour, they could be piggie in the middle.

I think the sad but unavoidable fact is, that at the end of the day, we
must all accept responsibility for our own transactions - whether buying
or selling, and if we need a go between, use a professional, or meet the
other party in person for the exchange of goods and money.

Buying and selling long distance is complicated, it is a risk, and if we
want to avoid the pitfalls, we must reduce the risks - the simplest is
to examine the wares before you buy, and accept only cash or irrevocable
payments if you sell. Let's face it, thousands of businesses can't be
wrong, and they have been doing this for years.

In Denmark we can send things with the postman - when he delivers the
goods, he collects the payment in return - no checkie - no goodies. OK
you can't post a whole vehicle - but what about a bit at a time ? :-)

If you meet up and examine the goods, haggle on the price, and agree,
then you must accept the terms and the seller must accept the transfer
of ownership. If this process is concurrent, then there is less
likeliehood of things going wrong.

That's my pennyworth...

Adrian Redmond

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:45:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

In a message dated 31/08/98 14:27:29 BST, you write:

<< a 7/8" Sears Craftsman socket (1/2" drive,
 shallow, 6pt) did the trick (but check carefully before you try, since
 a long socket from the same company was just too wide to fit) >>

in the UK my friends and I use one socket that we pass around... it's so old
we have no idea who made it... but I can confirm that other 7/8 don't do it..

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:45:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing Chassis Bushes

In a message dated 31/08/98 15:04:10 BST, you write:

<< clogs up the neighborhood with lots of thick black smoke! >>

not to mention the bad language !!! (from the person doing it)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:17:01 -0500
Subject: Frame FS

crossposted because of dual application possibilities:

1991 Range Rover 100 inch frame for sale, Like new, no rust or damage.  
includes only swaybars, no suspension or drivetrain. replace crash damaged 
frame or for use in hybrid project.  $900 or BRO.  207-666-5614

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:29:51 -0500
Subject: D90 pictures

Does anyone know where I can find any pictures of a pre-1986 D90.

I have some doubts about the origin of some of the characteristics of the
truck I'm about to buy, and so I need some reference of what it should look
like.

I'm a little concerned about the PO's work.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:52:15 -0400
Subject: Roof top tent

Anyone know of a source for the car top tent that RN had for sale about a
year ago ? Does anyone have one for sale ????

1988 Range Rover..

Loaded up for the rough stuff

1993 Range Rover..

Plushmobile

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:53:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

At 03:14 PM 31/08/98 -0400, Tackley, John, wrote

>I propose that the Secretaries of the various Rover Clubs, (or ANARC as
>the club of clubs), act as an escrow agent between buyer and seller.

Go-betweens are often used in the commercial and governmental world but for
vastly more complex and expensive transactions than would likely occur
between list members.  Such services do slow transactions, cost extra money,
and there are financial and performance bonds attached.

Speaking for myself only, my preference is to assure myself as either buyer
or seller of the bone fides of the other party and enter into an honorable
agreement.  If honor is lacking on one side or the other there isn't a lot
that can be done other than perhaps bringing in a lawyer.

I've never had a problem in a handshake deal with a list member.  I've also
had two large projects in my business that came about in the initial stages
from contact over the Internet that involved a degree of initial trust.

What can I say; buyer or seller beware; my word is my bond; a deal is a deal
--- principles as old as human commerce.

I see your point, it is not a bad idea, I understand the intent -- but I'd
rather deal direct and take my own risk.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:11:28 EDT
Subject: Re: 61 Land Rover Series IIa 88 with Perkin 4-203 Diesel Conversion

In a message dated 31/08/98 20:39:47 BST, you write:

<<  is the Perkins conversion common?  Does
 it add or reduce the value of the vehicle?  Does diesel Rover always
 shake like crazy at idle (or it just feels that way)?  Is there anything
 else that I should look for?   >>
The 4203 conversion used to be fairly common in the UK.
Now, tho' it could be called outdated. It's a heavy, low down torquey engine
and, yes, it has been known to be a little unbalanced (as in shaking like
crazy).
Also, there is a big question mark in this country as to whether it will
continue to reach the emmission tests.
I dunno where you live, but in the UK I would counsel leaving it alone and
looking for a more modern diesel if not Land Rover itself.
Of course, if it is cheap enough and the rest if ok, buy it and convert it
back (not as easy as it sounds tho')

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:11:18 EDT
Subject: Re: 61 Land Rover Series IIa 88 with Perkin 4-203 Diesel Conversion

In a message dated 31/08/98 20:39:47 BST, you write:

<<  is the Perkins conversion common?  Does
 it add or reduce the value of the vehicle?  Does diesel Rover always
 shake like crazy at idle (or it just feels that way)?  Is there anything
 else that I should look for?   >>
The 4203 conversion used to be fairly common in the UK.
Now, tho' it could be called outdated. It's a heavy, low down torquey engine
and, yes, it has been known to be a little unbalanced (as in shaking like
crazy).
Also, there is a big question mark in this country as to whether it will
continue to reach the emmission tests.
I dunno where you live, but in the UK I would counsel leaving it alone and
looking for a more modern diesel if not Land Rover itself.
Of course, if it is cheap enough and the rest if ok, buy it and convert it
back (not as easy as it sounds tho')

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Alberto Guimarăes" <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:10:37 -0700
Subject: Range Rover's body position

Hi all,^M^MI have a 1992 two doors RR, with a 2500 Turbo Diesel VM engine. I'm 
very happy with it, but lately I've been noticing that the height of the car 
isn't the same 
in all ends. In the back, the distance to the ground in the right side is 
smaller than in the left. Already asked the local LR dealer and they answered 
that it 
was a  characteristic of this cars. Is this correct? Or should I verify it 
better?^M^MGreetings from Portugal^M^MAlberto 
Guimaraes^Ma.guimaraes@mailcity.com^M^MMember of the Land Rover Club of 
Portugal^M^M>^M>^M>Now MailCity offers forwarding so you can check your 
MailCity messages and other e-mail all in one place.  Go to 
http://www.mailcity.com^M>

Now MailCity offers forwarding so you can check your MailCity messages and 
other e-mail all in one place.  Go to http://www.mailcity.com

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:15:23 EDT
Subject: Re:  Engine choices?

Gerry,
I've got a 109SW w/ a Scotty's adapter and the Iron Duke 4 cyl. engine (mine's
out of a 1980 Pontiac Sunbird--driving excitement!).  I cruise easily at 65
mph, only b/c I don't like running the rpms any higher, but easily could.  She
pulls very well, even low-end off road.  Drove across PA on Rt. 80 (decently
hilly) this summer and never took her out of 4th gear, o/d.   Only time I've
really wished for more power was out in CO on the Interstates at 11,000 feet,
where my carb jets are all wrong and so I can't even make a stab at what she'd
run like w/ proper jets at that altitude.

I've had one of these engines for about 2 1/2 years in her and am pretty
pleased.  May look at a V8 when this one eventually dies, but for a fairly
easy conversion w/ dramatically improved highway performance I'd recommend
this.

Don't know how much a Dormobile weighs, but I drove from NJ to GA tipping the
scales at 4800 lbs. and she was a bit more sluggish than normal, but still
moved right along with ease.  Also usu. get 16-18 mpg on the highway.

Bill Rice
Columbus GA

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:15:29 EDT
Subject: Hot tip

Howdy folks,
Due to increasing amounts of tiny droplets of that precious substance of which
most folks aren't aware--80w-90 all over my back windows I decided to install
breathers on all my oil-dispensing components.

So I bought the hose fittings, fuel line, fuel filters to do a similar setup
to my axle breathers on my tranny, t-case, and o/d.

Sat. I removed the front floor and tranny tunnel, and THEN decided to take out
the access panel between the front seats.  At this point it dawned on me that
I am an idiot.  The inspection for all three components are right there.  No
need to remove the floor and add several hours (or only one hour if you've got
the customized minimum-hardware-necessary setup I have) of work to the job for
nothing.

Once I realized that my o/d cover had somehow not been tightened down properly
and was causing the whole setup to leak far worse than it has sans breathers,
my problems seem to have been diminished.  Now if that rear output seal ever
arrives . . .

Bill Rice
Columbus GA, heat captial of the world
64 109 SW, soon to be renamed "the oven"

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From: ASkatvold@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:41:14 EDT
Subject: ATTN: John Cassidy from Bangor Maine

Sorry about the post but I lost your Email Address and I have important
shipping information for you....

please email me direct..
askatvold@aol.com

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:14:23 -0400
Subject: Re: No oil in swivel

You did say you installed new lock tabs on all the studs.........and made sure
they were properly tabbed over............didn`t you.eh..eh..:-)

jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

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From: dsticht@cyberportal.net
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:40:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: re: Mt Shaw #4 reminder

This is the last reminder for the Mt. Shaw run.
When....Sept 19, 10:00am
Where...Meredith town docks
Bring...Lunch
CB #1
See you all then
Dave

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:05:46 -0500
Subject: The Turner Turnover

So today was the pivotal moment and I started the Turner.  Sounds great.
Got it up to temp and thenshut off, retorqued head and set valves.
Restarted and set idle and idle mixture on the Zenith. 

I still have one more wheel to pull to pack bearing and replace brakes.

Project has included.  Pulling old engine, PORing chassis, new clutch,
new wiring harness, replaceing turner, rid myself of old tired weber and
replacing with zenith, new brake lines all around, new brakes shoes all
around, new rear brake cylinder, relining transmission brake shoes and
cleaning its components and replacing boot, rebuilding mech. fuel pump
and replacing fuel lines, recore to old radiator.  New water pump, new
hoses for rad and heater.  And lots of little stuff.  Should drive
tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help.  I am sure more questions will arrive.  I have
to get 500 miles on it before next week.  I then head out to the Montana
prairie with seven bird dogs, lots of beer, camping gear and cigars for
a week of  hunting.

One susprise.  Guage only says 40 lb/in squared and 20 at idle.  I was
expecting more.

cwolfe

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:22:08 -0500
Subject: How do you set headlights?

I failed to mention I also converted over to Hella halogen headlights.
I know how to adjust the headlight using the screws but I do not know
what I should settings I should use as my standard.  What benchmarks do
you use to set headlights?

cwolfe

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:48:15 -0400
Subject: Gazelles: don't hold your breath

>From Automotive News, August 31, 1998:
"Another would-be importer, Eurasia Motor Corp. of Fort Lauderdale,
Fla., says it is set to begin sales of a Hummer-like French
sport-utility that will be assembled in Brazil." The article goes on to
say that Eurasia was set to unveil the vehicle today in Portland, ME.
Howard Patterson, Eurasia CEO, says sales the vehicle is not certified
for US safety and emission rules, but sales could start by the end of
the year. The sport-utility will be the Gazelle Endura, and the pickup
and sedan versions will be the Gazelle Modesto. Suggested retail prices
will start below $17K.  It is based on French Auverland-Sovamag A3, a
military vehicle with a Peugot engines.

My recollection is that this has a tub type body which also serves as
the frame, is distinguised by a steeply sloping hood (bonnet), and is
related the Portugese built UMM which has been sold in England. It's a
very desirable vehicle but I'd guess it can't meet US regs without a
total redesign.

Eurasia announced the Rage a year or so ago, which was related to the
very desirable LR based IBEX, but with a Ford/Cosworth engine. I don't
think any have made it to US shores yet, and I'm not holding my breath.
A confused description of that vehicle is available at:
http://emcgazelle.com/vehicleindex.htm.

David Cockey

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:51:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Points/Ignition Series III Tach

Hello all,
        My problems installing the VDO tach have led me to scrutinize my
newly installed Lucas (new style) distributor.  Should the points be fully
open when the ignition sparks?  It appears mine spark very early in the
points opening cycle.  Secondly, if the distributor drive coupling is
installed upside down would it cause the problem with the early spark or
would it put the ignition system off to the point that the motor wouldn't
even start?
        Thanks in advance.  I am still in the early stages of learning and
the tach install, which was supposed to be simple, has caused me to second
guess the other work I've done.  Later...

                                                        Hank Stinson
                                                        '73 SWB Shed

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:57:22 -0400
Subject: ARO latest

More from Automotive News on would-be importers of basic 4x4s:
"East European Imports Inc., the company that has struggled for several
years to import the Aro sport-utility from Romanis, has a new partner."
The new partner is a company which lost money last year. East European
claims they will start importing 1000/month by the end of the year with
Toyota engines, but doesn't actually have a deal for the Toyota engines.
Again, don't hold your breath.

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From: "Lara, David P (Engineering)" <LARADAVI@Mattel.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:28:29 -0700
Subject: Discovery A frame 

One Discovery A frame brush bar kit (black) never used, $300.00 plus
shipping.

laradavi@mattel.com

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:59:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Transactions between LRO List members; a Suggestion.

With all due respect;  phbtbthhbhbhthbhbtppbtptpt....:-)
I don't know about everyone on the list, but I don't have a "club"
anywhere near me. Even if I did, why would they want to have anything
to do with people's private business transactions. If something were
to go wrong, wouldn't they share some responsibility in our great
legal system?
If someone decides they don't want to sell you something after all,
how is involving more people going to change that? 
As the Eagle's said, "get over it".....;-)
Smitty

-"Tackley, John"  wrote:
 As I promised to do on 8/17/98, here are my comments and suggestions
for
making parts transactions between LRO List members a more 'trusted
 domain', (if you will allow me a network related term).
 My comments:
 Many of you will remember my former message in which I described a
parts
 transaction gone bad between two list members.  
 To briefly summarize, I was the buyer.  The seller however changed his
 mind and did not sell me the items, as had been previously agreed to.  
 In response to that message, I counted 36 replies from other LRO List
 members.  35 of those messages were positive (only one was negative).
 I have typed/talked to some of you off line and bounced some of my
ideas
 around.  
 My thanks to those of you who listened and even contributed your own
 ideas.  You know who you are.
 So, in order to improve the nature of parts or vehicle transactions
 between LRO List members, making future transactions more reliable 
(and
 hopefully making a positive experience out of a negative one), I would
 like to make the following suggestion.
 My suggestion:
 I propose that the Secretaries of the various Rover Clubs, (or ANARC as
 the club of clubs), act as an escrow agent between buyer and seller.
 Here's a typical scenario:
 1.  Buyer and seller could agree on a transaction, then communicate it
 to the appropriate Club Secretary.
 2.  Buyer would send a certified check or money order to the club sec.,
 payable to the seller (including a prepaid, pre-addressed envelope to
 the seller)  
 3.  Club Sec. would simply hold the funds until satisfactory delivery
is
 accomplished.  
 4.  Seller checks in w/ club sec. to verify that check has arrived.
 Once confirmed, he ships parts to the buyer.  
 5.  Buyer then notifies club sec. all is "OK" on receipt of parts. (any
 disputes must be resolved by the buyer and seller - the club cannot act
 as a referee)
 6.  Club Sec. drops the check into the mail to the seller.  
 This would/could be a service provided to club members by the various
 clubs.  Clubs might even charge a small fee or request a 'donation' for
 the service.  
 ( 1 or 2%, with, say a $2.00 minimum would help the club's kitty.)
 I think this procedure only need to be done when the dollar amount of
 the transaction was substantial enough to warrant it or where the 2
 parties have no knowledge of one another, etc.. Ultimately, this is
 decided by the buyer and/or seller.  
 By working through a club, LROs might be less likely to renege on
 buy/sell agreements and some confidence may be introduced into the
 process as well.
 I don't wish to start another long thread.  Those of you who want to
 pursue the idea may wish to discuss with your club's officers (or
Sandy,
 as the ANARC President), or contact me directly.  And thanks for the
 opportunity to make this Land Rover community work a bit smoother...
 L8r.
 John Tackley

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From: "David Vella" <landy@digigate.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:11:28 -0000
Subject: is this a series only mailing list ??

is this list only for series land rovers ? as when posting on a 1987
defender i get absolutely no reply.

    -=David=-
GFI Fax & Voice

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From: Niels Josephsen <nielsj@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:43:56 +0200
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe lro-digest

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From: "Dr. Gary.A.Bauer" <bauerg@iafrica.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:51:46 +0200
Subject: Joining List

Dear Sir

I have recived your details from a fellow member of the Cape Land Rover
Club, and would like to join the list.

I own a 1975 Series III SWB, and a 1949 Series I SWB.

If this should not be the correct address, please could you forward the
relevant one to me.

Many thanks

Gary Bauer

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