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From: Norman Lewis <norm@kpco.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 07:53:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Ser IIa and PCV valves

Rover began installing PCV valves on NADA Land-Rovers (Ser IIa) in
approximately 1964/1965.  These were used with the Solex carb.  The PCV
valve was mounted on the intake manifold and attached to a fitting that
vented into the manifold between the intakes for cylinders 3 and 4. 
Venting of the crankcase was via a steel line to the oil filler tube. 
The breather on the rocker cover was vented to the carb air hose.  My
'65 88 had this system, and I think I have seen a few '64's with it.

Norm Lewis

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 10:02:46 -0500
Subject: RE: Ser IIa and PCV valves

The way I understand  it the problem with venting into t he intake
manifold directly cause uneven distribution.  THis results in too lean a
mixture to the 3 cylinder with resulting problems.  

My solution was to go with the zenith.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 10:05:16 -0500
Subject: RE: British Brake Double Flare

Teri Anne

Where did you get this tool and the appropriate dies?  I would be
interested.

cwolfe

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ]
From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 09:18:31 -0600
Subject: Re: tach on a Series III

> Hello all,
>         I just finished putting a Tach in my Series III and wired it as per
> the directions to my Lucas "Sport" Coil.  The gauge seems to read OK at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>                                                 Hank Stinson
>                                                 '73 88' SHED

Hank-

Got a Tach on "The Beast" -Works great! Also a good "tool" for letting me know
when the points are going bad-the tach needle fluctuates then.

I'm assuming that the ground wires are attached to good grounds and the tach is
set for 4 cylinders? You said you ran the tach sensor wire to the wire going to
the distributor. HMMMM?

The ways the tach works is that it picks up the the points opening which 
triggers
the tach. assuming you got the wiring correct and your vehicle runs good, I'd 
say
you have a bad tach. Find a buddy with a points system in their car and temp 
wire
it up on their engine.

Can't see where the coil itself would have any effect--

Art

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From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 09:36:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Series III tach

Hello all, Art,
        I may have the dipswitchs set incorrectly.  I have the wire to the
gauge from the low tension lead side of the coil.  Is the Series III coil
system what is refered to as a "pulse" system?  Or did you set your tach for
a normal 4cyl. motor?  If it is a pulse system does anyone know the rate of
pulse per second?  Thanks again....

                                                        Hank

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 14:19:23 -0300
Subject: Re: British Brake Double Flare

Michael Carradine wrote:
>  Anyone know how to make British Brake Flares?
>  I'm forced to make a whole new brake system for our
>  Series I 80" with 3/16" lines and fittings, replacing
>  the existing 1/4" system.  Snap-On tools has a standard
>  (as opposed to metric) "American" double flare tool, but
>  I'm sure this is the proper one.  The fittings are BSF
>  (British Standard Fime) and supposedly commonly used in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>  adapter necessary at the master cylinder.  Any help or
>  advice is very much appreciated!
 The Snap On double flare kit will work just fine ( except that it is 
the same kit that others sell for less money but thats another issue)
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 14:47:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 

LEBLANC_CJ wrote:
> Howdy
> I know this is the Series vehicle list but please bear with me.  I'm am
> considering buying a 1988 US spec Range Rover.  Is there anything known
> to be majorly wrong with this vehicle?
> It was hit on the passenger side.  Both doors, middle post and a little
> floor damage need fixing.  The roof, fender and rear quarter panel are

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> intact.  If properly repaired is this still a safe vehicle?
> Sorry for the coiler questions but I have no real knowledge of this
 because the Range Rover is a body on frame vehicle the minor damage you
describe will not affect the safety unless exhaust fumes get into the 
interior. Stuff to look for: rust around the innner fenders and
footwells. Suspension bushes etc will need to examined.
     John and Muddy

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From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:12:01 -0400
Subject: TW brake flaring tool

Hi TeriAnn
I recently replaced my brake lines on my 74 S3 88. 
I tried to use American type fittings with some of the 
British fittings and can see exactly why it shouldn't
be done.

I like your suggestion on buying the straight lengths 
and cutting to fit and reflaring the end. In your post 
you stated that only one flare needed to be redone.

Are the American and British flares the same and only
the fittings different? 

If I walked into my local auto parts place exactly what
would I ask for in the way of  flaring tools.

I enjoyed talking with you at Greek Peak and took some 
real nice pictures of the Green Rover. Did you go on to 
the Atlantic Coast?

Bill Fishel
Bristolville, Ohio

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From: "Alberto Guimarăes" <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 11:08:06 -0700
Subject: Range Rover's body position

Hi all,^MI have a 1992 two doors RR, with a 2500 Turbo Diesel VM engine. I'm 
very happy with it, but lately I've been noticing that the height of the car 
isn't the same 
in all ends. In the back, the distance to the ground in the right side is 
smaller than in the left. Already asked the local LR dealer and they answered 
that it 
was a  characteristic of this cars. Is this correct? Or should I verify it 
better?^M^MGreetings from Portugal^M^MAlberto 
Guimaraes^Ma.guimaraes@mailcity.com^M^MMember of the Land Rover Club of Portugal

Now MailCity offers forwarding so you can check your MailCity messages and 
other e-mail all in one place.  Go to http://www.mailcity.com

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From: "Alberto Guimarăes" <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 11:13:55 -0700
Subject: Range Rover's body position

Hi all,^MI have a 1992 two doors RR, with a 2500 Turbo Diesel VM engine. I'm 
very happy with it, but lately I've been noticing that the height of the car 
isn't the same 
in all ends. In the back, the distance to the ground in the right side is 
smaller than in the left. Already asked the local LR dealer and they answered 
that it 
was a  characteristic of this cars. Is this correct? Or should I verify it 
better?^M^MGreetings from Portugal^M^MAlberto 
Guimaraes^Ma.guimaraes@mailcity.com^M^MMember of the Land Rover Club of Portugal

Now MailCity offers forwarding so you can check your MailCity messages and 
other e-mail all in one place.  Go to http://www.mailcity.com

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From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 16:02:56 EDT
Subject: Wiring harness

Hi all; does anyone know the URL for the British wiring company in the US? I
think it may be time for a new harness for the SIIA 88. And do these come
labeled or not?
Thanks in advance
Steve F
69SIIA 88

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From: trowe@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 98 15:32:01      
Subject: Any 5-door lwb's for sale?

Hello all, it's me again. Thought I'd pop 'round for a visit.

I'm moving from Madison next month, heading to Atlanta , Georgia.
I'm wondering if anyone knows of any decent 5-door 109's for sale
within a couple of states of me. WI, MI, IL IA, MN etc.?
I don't want one someone's put a lot of work into (ie, it should be
under about $9,000), but it needs to be able to get me and my family
from WI to GA with minimal preperation.

Cheers.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 16:31:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Any 5-door lwb's for sale?

In a message dated 98-08-30 16:25:33 EDT, you write:

<< Hello all, it's me again. Thought I'd pop 'round for a visit.
 
 I'm moving from Madison next month, heading to Atlanta , Georgia. >>

What's with Georgia these days? You're about the third person in these past
two months, from the list, moving to Georgia... 

Will you tow the 88 behind the 109? If you do a flat tow, you can put a kid in
the 88 to start the engine and give it some gas on the uphills ;-)

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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 14:42:27 -0700
Subject: Speedo

Frank,
    I did have fun, that is true.  I went out west (Rocky Mountains)
yesterday and a friend and I did some serious off roading of a different
sort.  The area where we were 'playing' has a great deal of swamp and
muskeg.  A dead end on a cut line after hairy swamp run (didn't get
stuck though) helped us decide to take an alternate route out.  The
alternate route ended up being far worse.  After a short, fast, bumpy
run, we came to an abrupt stop when our front wheels dove about two and
a half feet into a small water flow that crossed the trail.  In this
area there are a good number of little streams no wider than a foot or
so that have eroded these channels that are quite deep.  The ground is
quite soft (swamp) so digging the winch out wasn't too hard.  After a
LOT of work we were turned around and heading out the original trail,
only having to winch once more.  I truly wish we had a camera with a
flash.  The rover was sitting at about a 45 degree angle on it's side,
enough that my co-pilot knew there was no way to get out his door.  On a
half mile run through this muck, we had to get stuck in the last five
feet, go figure.
    We had fun the whole time and I think that is what it is all about.
After some trail side rewiring we were at the camp sight.  What I
learned from this trip was that my little rover will do amazing things
in the mud, rewiring the rat's nest of wires in my truck is a must, and
that the spare electric fuel pump that happened to be hiding under the
tunnel was worth its weight in gold.  I am sure that reading this
message is quite a chore.  I have tried very hard not to write something
long and take up space, but throw in a -few- of the details from my most
recent adventure.
    By the way, Frank and everyone else, my speedo cable was broken so
the new one should be here on monday.  Also, my co-pilot from this past
trip has since agreed to help rewire (properly) my truck this winter.

NB - The work... it's all worth it!

Cheers,
Kirk Hillman
and 'Nameless' :-)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 98 13:46:04 -0700
Subject: Re: TW brake flaring tool

>Are the American and British flares the same and only
>the fittings different? 

The double flair used in the US and on "pre-metric British cars" are the 
same.  The bubble flare used on "Metric British cars"  is the standard 
bubble flare used on all European cars.

;>If I walked into my local auto parts place exactly what
;>would I ask for in the way of  flaring tools.

Ask for ether a double or a bubble flare depending youn what you need.  
My conversion ended up with some of both.

Call Eastwood and ask for their catalogue 1-800-345-1178  Hmm looks like 
they have a web site.  I ned to check this out. http://www.eastwoodco.com

;>I enjoyed talking with you at Greek Peak and took some 
;>real nice pictures of the Green Rover.

I'd like to see the jpegs one of these day if you get around to it.

;> Did you go on to the Atlantic Coast?

Nope.  I was only sponsored for Greek Peak and being unemployed I 
couldn't afford to juet hang for a while.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 16:52:00 EDT
Subject: Re: TW brake flaring tool

In a message dated 98-08-30 16:43:59 EDT, you write:

<< > Did you go on to the Atlantic Coast?
 
 Nope.  I was only sponsored for Greek Peak and being unemployed I 
 couldn't afford to juet hang for a while. >>

What?? BritPac didn't need any more engine blocks from massachusetts? T'wasn't
too much further on... but I guess there wasn't enough room in TGR ;-)

--pat.

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 22:17:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Blown Fuses!

Thanks for all your help guys!

I tracked it down to the front right indicator, all others had been replaced
with the newer (?) plastic mounts, but this one was still a rusty metal
husk! Cleaned her out and now all is hunky dory!

Have just one more problem, the heater selector (i.e COLD or HOT) won't stay
on hot, it keeps springing back to COLD, I have disassemled it and seen the
way it works, a small pin on a spring slots into a dip, but the pin won't
stay! I suspect the dip has worn and the pin simply slides out due to the
fact that no vertical/horizontal side is present.....anyone else had this
problem and solved it - before I start breaking bits....

Just can't wait till her number plates come through.............

Neil

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 18:33:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Blown Fuses!

Neil Brownlee wrote:
> Thanks for all your help guys!
> I tracked it down to the front right indicator, all others had been replaced
> with the newer (?) plastic mounts, but this one was still a rusty metal
> husk! Cleaned her out and now all is hunky dory!
> Have just one more problem, the heater selector (i.e COLD or HOT) won't stay
> on hot, it keeps springing back to COLD, I have disassemled it and seen the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> stay! I suspect the dip has worn and the pin simply slides out due to the
> fact that no vertical/horizontal side is present.....anyone else had 

 I am pretty sure that the cable is not moving and is causing the
control to just spring back. Go under the hood and try moving the arm on
the temp. control unit beside the upper rad hose. if it is stuck then
you willneed a new cable and/or control unit.
    John and Muddy

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 17:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedo

In a message dated 30/08/98 21:42:36 BST, you write:

<<  I am sure that reading this
 message is quite a chore. >>
reading about rovering is second only to doing it. As I'm still 'excused
games' it's also all there is for me at the moment. 
keep on doin' it....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: m@pingpong.se
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:12:55 +0100
Subject: Wanted: L R STW SII, SIII or Defender

I'm not an owner of a Land Rover - yet. But do you have a well treated
STW, short wheelbase, SII (A or B), SIII or Defender for sale - drop me
a few lines with details. Or if you know anyone who has. I promise, I
will take good care of the one I'll buy. Mail me: m@pingpong.se

M Nilsson
Stockholm

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 18:37:17 -0400
Subject: Shipping help !!!

I just bought a fibreglass top from my D90 Softtop. but UPS will not deliver
it. It's too big!

It measures: Length - 87 inches X width (height) - 63 inches X depth - 16
inches
It weighs 90 pounds.
It's un Utah, I'm in Philly.

I was going to drive there, but I must go on business to the Persian Gulf
region for a month, and won't be able to take a week off when I return as I
must return 1 month later to the same place with a complete web site ! A lot
of work to complete !

Any suggestions ?
Help !!!

Marc-Andre Leger

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 19:49:44 -0300
Subject: Re: Shipping help !!!

Marc-Andre Leger wrote:
> I just bought a fibreglass top from my D90 Softtop. but UPS will not deliver
> it. It's too big!
> It measures: Length - 87 inches X width (height) - 63 inches X depth - 16
> inches
> It weighs 90 pounds.
> It's un Utah, I'm in Philly.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> of work to complete !
> Any suggestions ?
Do a search for LTL (less than truckload) companies in the area where
the top is to come from. Since you know the weight and dementions you
can get quotes from several.
        John and Muddy

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From: "William S. Kowalski" <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 18:48:20 -0400
Subject:  Re:  Any 5-door lwb's for sale?

You might come the the British Car Festival, September 13, 1998, in
DesPlaines Illinois, USA, usually have quite a few Land-Rovers, always a
few for sale, and of course, every vehicle ultimately has a price. Check
out the web page <www.qth.com/bcu>

Bill Kowalski
Hinsdale, Illinois

'67 Land-Rover IIA 109" (Not for sale for any price) ( Will be at Stowe)
'63 Austin-Healey "BJ-7"
'53 RR Bentley "R"  ( For sale-never used off road--could probably beat a
LR though, with proper modifications!!)

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 19:59:53 -0400
Subject: Trans problem

Braman, your trans problem sounds like the classic symptoms of  a failed
spring in the 3/4 synchro hub.
 There are 3 springs, evenly spaced around the gear, if one breaks it
permits the gear to tip onm the shaft making gear selection extremely difficult.

 The springs can be replaced from the top of the box. ( most LR shops would
pull the box to do it, as I used to do, )  It is a tedious job, requiring
patience and dexterity, but is is a lot easier than pulling the trans.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 20:55:47 -0400
Subject: No oil in swivel

 It is unlikely that any of the parts in the swivel housing will have
suffered from lack of oil, assuming there was some in before the bolts came
out. Loss of the bolts would not cause loss of oil from the wheel bearings.
In any event the partts are tough and since you did not run for a prolonged
peroid without oil I doubt there will be a problem.
 when you strip the housing to replace the seal etc, look very carefully at
the tapped holes, it is possible that they could have become worn due to the
previous loose studs, or a few  threads could have been pulled out. I have
seen similar problems in the past, if not taken care of, you will find that
the repalcements will fall out again relatively quickly.  If the threads are
damaged they can be salvaged by fitting Helicoil inserts, much cheaper than
a replacement housing. I strongly reommend the use of Loctite thread sealant
when you re assemble the steering. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Chris Browne <cbrowne@ici.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 21:35:50 -0400
Subject: BSROA Fall Heritage

BSROA's Fall Heritage is now headquartered in VT, and being held over the
fourth weekend in September. Registration form can be found at our web site
BSROA.com. 

	Please preregister if you want the complete meal plan, as packed lunches
cannot be done on the day! 

	Email me privately if if you have any questions!
	
	Thanks

	Chris Browne

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 21:31:03 -0700
Subject: Re: No oil in swivel

Thanks to TeriAnn, David, and William for the info. I actually didn't
tell you the whole story. I continued 4-wheeling for 2 more days, and
then drove 150 miles home. I do have lockout hubs, so the highway
shouldn't have hurt anything. One of the holes was stripped out during
the subsequent 4-wheeling, so I retapped it and put in a 1/2" NF bolt
when I got home. I will order studs for the other 3. My friend in the
Bronco was impressed that the rover could be fixed, let alone that I
could continue torturing it on the trail.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

William L. Leacock wrote:
>  It is unlikely that any of the parts in the swivel housing will have
> suffered from lack of oil, assuming there was some in before the bolts came
> out. 
> In any event the partts are tough and since you did not run for a prolonged
> peroid without oil I doubt there will be a problem.
>  when you strip the housing to replace the seal etc, look very carefully at
> the tapped holes, it is possible that they could have become worn due to the
> previous loose studs, or a few  threads could have been pulled out.

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 22:39:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: British Brake Double Flare

At 10:21 AM 8/29/98, TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> wrote:
>> Anyone know how to make British Brake Flares?
>Yep, I replumbed my entire brake system when I went to dual power brakes 
>a few years ago.
>I own a pair of Eastwood flair tools.  One for double flares and one for 
>bubble flares.  I would be happy to lend them to you as long as they come 
>back in the same condition that they left in.
>Rovers North carries the new British fittings.  DO NOT INTERMIX BRITISH 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
>cylinder somewhere with the adaptor still there.
>Let me know if you need to borrow my flare tools

 Thanks for the offer TW.  With so many British cars in
 my life, the time has come to invest in flare and bending
 tools.  Snap-On (as well as Discount Tools) has the double
 flare tool kit for $40, and my local Snap-On guy has a
 *used* kit, so it will cost even less.  Again, thanks for
 the offer, and everyone for the helpful tips.

 BTW-  BSF threaded fittings are used in US air conditioning
 systems, so they should be available nearly everywhere.

-Michael

 50-80, 72-88, 89-RR, 72-TR6
 55-404 Unimog

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