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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:35:36 +0100
Subject: Blown Fuses!

I have a 1978 Series III, with four fuses in the column. When I indicate
right, it blows the fuse...any hints, help or obvious things wrong?

Neil

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From: LEBLANC_CJ 
</DD.XMRROUTE=Leblanc#l#u#r#Cj#l#a#r#AM#l#a#r#R20105/@csc-scc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 29 Aug 1998 15:36:53 +0000
Subject:  

Howdy

I know this is the Series vehicle list but please bear with me.  I'm am
considering buying a 1988 US spec Range Rover.  Is there anything known
to be majorly wrong with this vehicle?

It was hit on the passenger side.  Both doors, middle post and a little
floor damage need fixing.  The roof, fender and rear quarter panel are
intact.  If properly repaired is this still a safe vehicle?

Sorry for the coiler questions but I have no real knowledge of this
vehicle.  I've been focusing all my attention on the rebuild of my IIA.

Thanks all

Charles 
88 bugeye "bugger"
CHARLES.LEBLANC@ATL.csc-scc.csc-scc.x400.gc.ca 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 18:01:05 +0200
Subject: Re: Blown Fuses!

You have a short circuit on the right indicator circuit.

Remove the positive lead from the battry, insert a spare lamp (sidelight
or indicator bulb) in series between the battery positive and the
positive cable. The lamp will light if anything in the vehicles positive
circuit is grounded, but the impedence of the lamp will prevent you from
drawing too much current and blowing fuses or frying wires.

Now turn the indicator switch - the test lamp will light if the circuit
has a short.

With the test light on, remove parts of the indicator circuit one at a
time - by undoing the bullet connectors in the radiator/wing area - when
you remove the faulty part of the circuit, the test light will go out.

If the test lamp stays on - the fault is higher up the chain - say the
indicator switch or the cable loom itself.

My guess is one of the following -

1.	Rusty and corroded lampholder (most likely - esp if you have metal
lampholders)
2.	Broken positive wire to one of the indicators, shorting to earth.
3.	Short circuit between positive wire somewhere and earth - inside
chassis to rear indicators, inside rear light wiring housing, inside
cable loom in dash panel.

The advantage of this fault finding method, is that it allows you to
"see" the fault - the test lamp remains alight just as long as something
somewhere is putting the positive side of the circuit to ground. And it
saves fuses and cooked wire looms.

This method is also brilliant for discovering those phantom little
shorts which drain the battery at night!

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:21:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedo

Kirk Hillman wrote:

>     Back to the problem at hand.  Should the speedo need power at all?
> Again, this is all new to me.  I understand that the indicator lights
> would require power, thus all the misc. wires coming out the back of the
> speedo, but my choke light works, and that is the only other thing on
> there I am worried about.  I don't even know if a Smiths is the original
> speedo or not (I am sure to find out soon though).

Kirk, in my '66 the spedo requires no power to operate. I can't comment
on the wires as I only have an ammeter, high beam indicator, and fuel
gauge. I would check the cable, or if you can find a small square drive
that will fit in a drill, you can test the spedo and rule it out for
sure.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 98 09:51:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Blown Fuses!

>I have a 1978 Series III, with four fuses in the column. When I indicate
>right, it blows the fuse...any hints, help or obvious things wrong?

Probably a short to ground in ether the wire going from the flasher to 
the front or from the flasher going to the rear.  Check the insulation 
for cracks, check the sockets & the lamp.  But Lmaps normally fail open.  
I would guess the insulation has been rubbing against a grounded metal 
edge, like where a wire goes through a bulkhead and the grommet is 
missing.

Assuming Rover followed the official Lucas colouring code, check the 
green wires with the white stripe (Complete Lucas colour code table in my 
web site).

Good luck with your detective work.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 98 09:53:34 -0700
Subject: Re: 

>Howdy
>I know this is the Series vehicle list but please bear with me.  I'm am
>considering buying a 1988 US spec Range Rover.  Is there anything known
>to be majorly wrong with this vehicle?
>It was hit on the passenger side.  Both doors, middle post and a little
>floor damage need fixing.  The roof, fender and rear quarter panel are

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>floor damage need fixing.  The roof, fender and rear quarter panel are
>intact.  If properly repaired is this still a safe vehicle?

Sounds like a great donnar car to build a Dakar based dune buggy ;*)

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:54:26 -0700
Subject: Lack of oil

The last four days I spent on rugged trails in the beautiful Colo.
rockies. However I had a problem on the second morning. As I was going
up the trail, the steering was starting to feel a little vague, no not a
little vague but more like stop to stop with no resistance or effect
vague. After going up the trail a little way by caster steering to a
flatter spot, I discovered that I had lost all four of the studs that
hold the bottom right swivel pin on. Since the swivel ball oil seal
retainer was now taking most of the stress, it is quite bent and the
seal is trashed. I replaced the studs with some of the bolts from the
top pins and continued my trip. 
	My question is that aside from swivel ball related bearings/bushings,
is the lack of oil damaging to anything else as in the halfshaft
bearing, or is it greased? I'm just trying to figure what all I will
need or want to replace while everything is torn apart.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 98 10:21:44 -0700
Subject: Re: British Brake Double Flare

> Anyone know how to make British Brake Flares?

Yep, I replumbed my entire brake system when I went to dual power brakes 
a few years ago.

I own a pair of Eastwood flair tools.  One for double flares and one for 
bubble flares.  I would be happy to lend them to you as long as they come 
back in the same condition that they left in.

Rovers North carries the new British fittings.  DO NOT INTERMIX BRITISH 
AND US FITTINGS!!!

British fittings have a longer threaded area.  The male fittings have a 
long section before the threads to help you line threads up.  American 
male fittings will be completely in with only a few a few threads 
engaging a British female fitting.  

I cut my tubing to length when I was fabricating my brake system.  One 
thing I did to save money is purchase a slightly longer length of made up 
brake lines with the correct flare from my local auto parts store.  I cut 
one flare off, removed the US fittings, added the British fittings and 
made up the second flare.

Mail order companies tend to mail brake tubing coiled up.  It is almost 
impossible to straighten it out and have it look straight.  So purchasing 
straight sections at my local auto parts store allowed me to build a 
neater brake system.

My old master cylinder had some sort of adapter between the adaptor and 
the brake line.  It may be what you are after.  While mine is long gone, 
check with other owners of early series II rigs to see if that is the 
adapter that you want.  If it is some one is bound to have a master brake 
cylinder somewhere with the adaptor still there.

Let me know if you need to borrow my flare tools

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 98 10:45:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Lack of oil

Everytime I think I have heard all the failure modes, someone comes up 
with another.

The resavor in the swivel ball lubercates the 'U' joint in each front 
axle.  Chances are that the 'U' joints are still in good condition.  
Being imersed in oil is why they seem to last forever while the Toyota 
and Jeep people are replacing theirs all the time.

>The last four days I spent on rugged trails in the beautiful Colo.
>rockies. However I had a problem on the second morning. As I was going
;>up the trail, the steering was starting to feel a little vague, no not a
;>little vague but more like stop to stop with no resistance or effect
;>vague. After going up the trail a little way by caster steering to a
;>flatter spot, I discovered that I had lost all four of the studs that
;>hold the bottom right swivel pin on. Since the swivel ball oil seal
;>retainer was now taking most of the stress, it is quite bent and the
;>seal is trashed. I replaced the studs with some of the bolts from the
;>top pins and continued my trip. 
;>	My question is that aside from swivel ball related bearings/bushings,
;>is the lack of oil damaging to anything else as in the halfshaft
;>bearing, or is it greased? I'm just trying to figure what all I will
;>need or want to replace while everything is torn apart.
;>
;>Jim Hall
;>Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 13:18:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Lack of oil

On Sat, 29 Aug 1998 jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

> is the lack of oil damaging to anything else as in the halfshaft
> bearing, or is it greased? I'm just trying to figure what all I will
> need or want to replace while everything is torn apart.

The wheel bearings are oiled by the swivel oil supply.  They may, or may
not, have been packed with greese by whoever fitted them.  You should
inspect them for blueing or wear, and replace them if required.  You
should be able to get aset from a local bearing shop, as they are a
standard timkin part.  There is also the U-joint in the swivel housing, I
dont' know if you will have damaged it or not.

David

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:42:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedo

In a message dated 29/08/98 07:07:24 BST, you write:

<<  (nameless) >>
Kirk,
glad you had fun and even got a liottle scary - that's what it is all about!!

good name for your Land Rover!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:37:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tach on Series III ?

Hello all,
        I just finished putting a Tach in my Series III and wired it as per
the directions to my Lucas "Sport" Coil.  The gauge seems to read OK at
idle, but, as soon as I run the revs up the dial is very erratic and reads
over 5000 revs at around 30mph in 4th gear - clearly not right.
        I suspect it is the coil since the directions that came with the VDO
gauge show a male connecter specifically for reading RPM's at the base of
the coil.  Mine didn't have one so I put it on the terminal conecting to the
dist. itself.  Is the Series Rover ignition system not compatible with
modern RPM gauges.  The VDO directions also allowed for the gauge to be run
off the alternator - would this be the only way to do it?  Thanks in
advance.....

                                                Hank Stinson
                                                '73 88' SHED

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