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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:35:08 EDT
Subject: Re:  Jumping out of Fourth Gear, SIIa

In a message dated 8/24/98 12:01:28 AM, you wrote:

holding it in gear, figuring the detent spring had gone, but to my horror, I
felt it pop out of gear with some force. I tried resisting the force and
holding it in gear, but that caused it to feel as though it was skipping a
tooth, and then it tried too jump out of gear again, so I let it.>>

So, you've got a "Mexican Overdrive"... automatically puts it in Neutral for
the downhills to save gas.

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:41:26 EDT
Subject: Re:  steering wheel removal

In a message dated 8/24/98 3:21:04 AM, you wrote:

<<>Actually, an alcohol-based penetrant (castor oil and alcohol mixed, or the
>like) might work better -
Hmm, that's model aero engine fuel - 20% castor oil, 80% Menthanol.
Assuming it doesn't have nitromethane in it.>>

So will it do double duty? Penetrate to loosen, then ignite to heat if
penetration doesn't work?

--pat.

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From: "Donald Abbot" <donald@bateleur.co.za>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:27:39 +0200
Subject: Re: Jumping out of Fourth Gear, SIIa

On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 00:00:35 EDT PDoncaster@aol.com wrote:

>I was on cruising on the highway and all of a sudden, the shifter jumps
>out of fourth gear.

>Soon, it became somewhat predictable, always just before the crest of a
hill.
>Sometimes, however, again just after the crest, on the down slope.

I suspect that it happens on overrun. I had the same problem in my SIII. I
was sorted out by replacing the 3/4 synchro unit. The only problem was
getting the mechanic to understand what I meant. After he had pulled the
gearbox and replaced it twice I demonstrated what the problem was.

Donald

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 8:53:11 -0400
Subject: Last word on TeriAnn's diesel...

After seeing the WakeMobile at GP, I have very little doubt that:
1. Whatever motor she chooses, she WILL fit it in there somehow.
2. It will be simple, elegant and look like it was meant to be that way 
all along.
3. With all the set tanks that are installed, she'll only refuel twice a 
year.

PS, Glad to have another diesel convert!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:06:11 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: brake lines continued

Wolfe, Charles wrote:
: ... removed and refitted the right rear brake line from the brake cylinder.  
: All mating surfaces appeared good ...  it leaks.  Not from the threads but
: rather between the line and the coupleing nut
: Is it likely to be the mateing surface of the cylinder?

Yes. As long as the fittings (thread type and number) have been matched to the 
ones that were removed, there really should be no problems.

It sounds like there was some dirt or a foreign body in the union as it was 
tightened, thus deforming the pipe olive as the joint was tightened.

Are you sure the pipe endings are of the correct (single flare) design ? 
Double flare is (usually) used when connecting to flexible pipework.

To leak between the pipe and fitting, strange, is it possible you are using 
metric pipe with an imperial fitting ? (if feasible)

PTFE tape shouldn't be used anywhere near the brake cylinders, as someone else 
has pointed out, you are masking the problem on a system where you really 
shouldn't.

Should an insurance inspector spot this 'bodge' after an accident then you can 
be almost certain where the blame will be placed.

Just my 2L.

Cheers,

Paul.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 98 06:39:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Rust in Series III

> But,
>there is rust in the sill area directly below the rear doors  - i.e. the
>doors on the side, not the very rear door.  I'm not sure what area one would
;>call it but is it hard to cut this area out and repair it?

Ron from your discription I would call it the rear frame member.  If it 
is REAL bad, you can  pruchase a rear frame section, cut off the old 
section and weld a new one in.

Rear  frame crossmembers are prone to rust because it collects mud thrown 
up from the rear wheels and people don't clean it off after a run.  

You can call the door the rear door if you want.  Think front doors, 
middle doors & rear door.

Good luck with your new project.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 98 07:25:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Last word on TeriAnn's diesel...

>After seeing the WakeMobile at GP, I have very little doubt that:
>1. Whatever motor she chooses, she WILL fit it in there somehow.
;>2. It will be simple, elegant and look like it was meant to be 
;>that way all along.
;>3. With all the set tanks that are installed, she'll only refuel
;> twice a year.

Thanks Bill

Considering the distances that I drive, the weight of the car and all 
those beautiful mountans between my starting point and intended location 
I feel that if I have more reliable HP than a 2-1/4 petrol can reliably 
produce I might be able to get ... say from home to Moab a day quicker.  
That would translate to two more days I could stay in the Moab area if I 
wanted to.

WHile looking at more powerful petrol engines I kept getting the feeling 
that fuel economy leaves a bit to be desired.  I kinda like the idea of 
being able to drive past a filling station.

Lately I have been having dreams of taking the Green Rover on an extended 
tour of Europe where petrol is REAL expensive and diesel is just 
expensive.

SO maybe a diesel could be an answer to my quest.

As it turned out I looked at LR conversions, RVs, boats & van conversions 
for about 2 years before I started any work on the interior of my car.  
I'm still in the early stages of getting a feeling for powerplants.

Whatever powerplant I end up with I want more power than I can reliable 
get from the LR 4 cyl petrol, as good or better fuel milage and for parts 
to be easy to get.

Bill I'm sorry that you had to leave GP early. I was hoping to have more 
time to say hi & ask about your new springs.  Please keep me informed as 
you sort out the new springs to get them to perform properly and please 
accept my condolences.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:43:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Jumping out of Fourth Gear, SIIa

Hi Peter this is Ray Wood at Wise Owl in Vancouver.

This is one of the most common faults on the series transmission. We
rebuild a lot of these and here is my experience on the matter.

Most things which cause jumping out of 4th gear can only be fixed by
removing the transmission. Usually the problem is that the rear mainshaft
is riding back and forth pushed by the helical gear in the transfer case.

 One fault which occasionally happens and causes this (and which can be
corrected with the transmission in place) is when the castle nut on the
rear of the mainshaft loosens up.  To check this nut remove the top square
cover on the transfer case and also the overdrive (Or the round cover where
the overdrive fits). Bend up the locking tab which retains the castle nut
and retighten the nut. A bit of blue locktite helps retain the nut and a
new lockwasher is part 217476. Another thing worth checking is the dedent
spring. The 3&4th spring is the one located under an "L" shaped bracket
bolted to the left hand top cover of the gearbox.

If the castle nut is tight and the dedent spring strong you will need to
repair the transmission or replace it with a rebuilt unit.

Common faults to look for when rebuilding a transmission with your symptoms
- these are rated in order of the most likeley.

1. The main distance piece bushing part 571218 is broken.

2. the rear main bearing (1614) is badly worn,

3. The steel bushing which embraces bearing 1614 has become loose in the
housing and is working back and forth. This can usually be repaired by
knurling the outside and pressing it back in using red locktite.

4. The syncro hub assembly is worn out (the teeth on the ends are worn
down) If the teeth look OK the flat springs (RTC1956) may be worn or
broken.

While you have the unit apart you may want to check the first gear on the
layshaft as they usually need replacing.

These are the main things to look for. I can also give you a few other tips
but it would save time if we did it on the phone. My number here is
1-888-880-2600

 

----------
> From: PDoncaster@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Jumping out of Fourth Gear, SIIa
> Date: Sunday, August 23, 1998 9:00 PM
> Hi everyone, I'm having a problem with the transmission on my '64 IIa 88"

Does
> anyone have an Idea what could be wrong? It all started about two weeks
> ago....
> I was driving back up to Maine from Conn., it was the weekend after Greek
> Peak, I was on cruising on the highway and all of a sudden, the shifter
> Hi everyone, I'm having a problem with the transmission on my '64 IIa 88"
jumps
> out of fourth gear. Then about five min. Later, it does it again, and
keeps on
> about every five to ten minutes. 
> Soon, it became somewhat predictable, always just before the crest of a
> I was driving back up to Maine from Conn., it was the weekend after Greek
hill.
> Sometimes, however, again just after the crest, on the down slope. I
tried
> holding it in gear, figuring the detent spring had gone, but to my
horror, I
> felt it pop out of gear with some force. I tried resisting the force and
> holding it in gear, but that caused it to feel as though it was skipping
a
> tooth, and then it tried too jump out of gear again, so I let it.  
> Well, friends, it was a sunny Saturday morning, so I pulled in to a rest
> I was driving back up to Maine from Conn., it was the weekend after Greek
stop
> and called RN. Lanny gave me some theories and off I went to go open the
> inspection covers. All this was complicated because  I had two passengers
who
> were uninitiated into the world of Vintage Land Rovers. Unfortunately,
the
> inspection ports revealed nothing of the problem. What else to do? I
decided
> that I would drive on to the next town. 
> The problem kept happening, but it wasnt getting worse, so I decided to
> I was driving back up to Maine from Conn., it was the weekend after Greek
just
> go as far as I could before giving up, less distance to tow it anyway. As
it

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:20:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Rust in Series III

The Becketts wrote:

> I'm looking at a Series III LWB SW.  It seems pretty much clear of rust,
> especially in the bulkhead and chassis.  In fact, I can't see any.  But,
> there is rust in the sill area directly below the rear doors  - i.e. the
> doors on the side, not the very rear door.  I'm not sure what area one would
> call it but is it hard to cut this area out and repair it?

On the station wagon/ Safari the front doors hang on a door post that is part of
the side frame that goes under the middle doors and then up at an angle to be
riveted to the rear body.On mine these frame had to be renewed, they fell apart
when I tried to dismantle them.
Take a look at http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html the
bottom left picture shows the state of the right -side frame before I removed
it.

Is this the area you are concerned with?

  Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:29:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 80 psi, what the...

There is a difference between floating and digging. You can float the tires
through deep mud or you can dig through the shallow stuff to float you have
to air down. If you don't air down you better hope the muds not to deep .
Nothing came close to stopping me at Greek Peaks a good part of which I will
attribute to my 35" 12.5 BFG M/T's aired down to 20 lbs. . Then of course
nothing seemed that difficult any ways. I don't think any one really needed
to air down for the courses except for one spot that was sloppy . I do air
down more or less as a precaution in advance to a trail instead of waiting
until a bad section and holding everyone up.
Chris "V"

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 21:27:33
Subject: Re:  80 psi, what the...

	I had the 7.50/16 Goodyear Wrangler AT's balanced on my 88 many years 
ago.
 I live nearly two miles down a lava road.  Within the first 50' after
turning on my road I had bounced off the roof of the rover twice and my
back was terminal.  Slowed down to a crawl and nursed the rover home.  When
I checked the tire pressure I found that some well meaning soul at the tire
store had bumped the pressure up from the 25#'s I had been running to
50#'s.  Don't know how anyone in a series, that actually goes off road,
could run tire pressures anything over 35#s.  I know you have to be weird
to drive a series but kidney failure, cervical compression fractures, and
concussion are not pleasures that we are forced to endure.  
	Bias ply tires ran at lower pressures because you could distort the 
shape
of the tread with resulting odd tire wear with either too much or too
little pressure and the sidewalls were more stable.  Radials hold their
tread shapes with greater extremes of pressure.  Higher pressures will give
you better mileage, up to a point, and a more stable tire for those 1 g
side loads we regular experience in the rover.  Unfortunately, if a little
dirt is in the picture you will have to suffer big time with higher tire
pressures.  Just because your tires are rated at 60#s or more pressure
doesn't mean you have to be dumb enough to run at those pressures.  I have
had very satisfactory all around service as low as 20#s though the gas
mileage did suffer.  Running at around 35#'s seems to be a good compromise
between comfort and gas mileage.  Anything more than 40#s is just self
flagelation.  Remember that an 88 running 235/16's actually has a very
light load on the tires.  Even a loaded 'TerriAnn mobile' doesn't stress a
tire intended to carry more than 2,000#s per tire so shouldn't require any
where near 60#s.  

>I've got 245/75R16 Trac Edges on my 110. They were mounted with Michelin
>Radial Tubes and balanced, etc. at 80 psi. I was then returned the truck with
>70 # in each tire. I thought that was way too much, but didn't know the tires
>were "Load Range *E*", rated up to 80#/tire. I told the Michelin Dealer who
>mounted them that LR suggested 28/38 or something like that for tyres on the
>110. He laughed and told me to try it, and I did. The truck rode like with
the
>OEM tires, (nice & comfy) except it steered a little vaguer, and I thought it
>was bordering on dangerous cornering on freeway offramps. The next day I went
>offroading in a forest in N. FL and pinched the two front tubes. I put in my
>spares and re-inflated the whole set to 60#/tire. I've been running them at
>that, or close to it since.  

Pinch flats on a tire inflated to 35#s would seem to indicate extreme abuse
like hitting a cement block at 30 mph.  Higher tire pressures will
definitely help to alleviate snake bites (where the rim punctures the tube
when the tire tread is forced against the rim under extreme deflexion
loads).  It is all a matter of how much abuse your body will take.  Lower
pressures will allow the tire to flow around lumps in their path and are
particularly reccomended for rock climbing.  Low pressure is also good for
sand as you want as much of the tire in contact with the sand for
flotation.  In mud it would seem that keeping the treads clean and digging
into the goo would be more important so low pressure could be self defeating. 

Aloha Peter 

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:38:42 -0500
Subject: heater wiring

I can not find the heater circuit on my wiring diagram.  I would
appreciate any input as to wire colors for this circuit. 

thank you\

cwolfe

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:53:32 -0400
Subject: Ideas

"Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com> wrote:

>Not everyone will agree with that statement, unless you're refering to
>      swill like "Passport".  So let's have a taste test at
>Mid-Atlantic  You bring some of your favorites and I'm sure there will be a
>      number of Scotchs there to compare with.

Now here's a great idea.  I always like it when the "Clan Cuddeagh o
Usquebeath o Corn"  (my poor attempt at typing Gaelic - translation Society
of the Drinkers of the Water of Life) set up at any of the Scottish games
in Virginia - before the revenooers made 'em stop giving away likker.  I'll
bring the Glen Morangie....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: David Scott <birddog@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:37:19 -0600
Subject: Prince Charles

To the elders on the list:  Prince Charles my total nut and bolt restoration 
with Galv frame Turner engine and Trans and most of my wallet spread his wings 
and 
left the nest under his own power.  The whispers of insanity from the crowd 
were at last quietened.  It took two angioplasties and an open heart bypass to 
finish.  As I drove him around for his test flight and I thought about all that 
money and all this noise I knew the crowd was right, but none had a smile on 
their face like mine.  Peace!  birddog (limestone 67 88 with vented trop roof)

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:48:06 -0500
Subject: Re: steering wheel removal

>>>>> "Alan" == Alan Richer <Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com> writes:

    Alan> Actually, an alcohol-based penetrant (castor oil and
    Alan> alcohol mixed, or the like) might work better - but
    Alan> don't waste good Irish whisky. First off, it
    Alan> contains too much flavoring, and secondly it's too
    Alan> damned expensive.

I will recite an ancient Irish proverb (or at least so I was
told by an ancient Irishwoman).  Pardon my feeble attempt at 
writing in dialect, but I hear it that way in me head.

"When ye die, you're hung head down in a barrel full of all
the whiskey yee've ever wasted, and if ye droown, the divil
taaks ye.  Sae be careful with that whiskey, or larn to drink
it fair fast."

I leave it to the reader to decide if using it for penetrating
oil constitutes a waste...
							-MM

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:23:52 EDT
Subject: RE Prince Charles and a voice from the past

Birddog and Prince Charles rides again!  It is good to here that you're still
kicking.  I may not qualify as an experienced owner but I do remember your
posts so I guess that makes me an elder.  

There is a God indeed who looks favorably on old Land Rovers and their owners!
Or is that "old owners and their Land Rovers" ?

Kindest Regards,
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'73 Series III "Tigger"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces)
'95 Disco "Great White"

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From: christine <genova@apple.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:55:42 -0700
Subject: Looking for a RR

Greetings --

I'm in the market for a late 80's to early 90's Range Rover.  Anyone have 
any leads, please let me know.  While I don't have any specific 
requirements, I would like to point out that this won't be a 
"grocery-getter."  I recently moved to wonderful house down a 2-mile, 
one-lane, cliff-hugging, dirt road that just beckons for one of these.... 
 I've admired them from afar for quite some time, and now I finally have 
a good reason to buy one!

Thanks for any help you can give.

-Christine     

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:19:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for a RR

May I recommend the 1989 RR it was the first year with a 3.9 liter engine
(more power) and heated windscreen and mirrors. but it was also the last
year that did not have air suspension and anti lock brakes (less really
expensive parts to replace or repair. And although the body is aluminum the
seams where the aluminum and the steal are connected do rust (check the back
window frame and tailgate. I don't know where you are from but try to get
one from Arizona or some where where it doesn't snow (or a place they don't
use salt to battle snow and ice.
Good luck and welcome to our little fanatics group.
Chris "V"

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:23:10 EDT
Subject: Cooling system questions

Hi all,

Correct me if I'm wrong here:

The waterpump goes 'round pumping coolant and when the appropriate temp is
reached, the thermostat directs the coolant flow into the top hose and through
the radiator.

THEREFORE:  The temp measured in the coolant at the radiator cap should be
within a couple of degrees of the coolant passing the water temp sending unit.

If this is true:

My questions are:
1.  If the water temp gauge reads high but the radiator coolant temp is 175 F,
what are the possibilities?

B. Could this be caused by a partially opening thermostat?  (Holding my finger
in the radiator cap opening I can feel when the thermostat is starting to
open)

THIRD.  Since I've replaced the voltage stabilizer this year and the
thermostat and sending unit 2 years ago, what are my culprits here? ( I assume
the radiator is ok since the coolant temp in the radiator is where it should
be with the thermostat open)

FINALLY.  Should I just pull the thermostat and run it to see what that does?

Thanks

Nate

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:37:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions

On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> The waterpump goes 'round pumping coolant and when the appropriate temp is
> reached, the thermostat directs the coolant flow into the top hose and through
> the radiator.
> THEREFORE:  The temp measured in the coolant at the radiator cap should be
> within a couple of degrees of the coolant passing the water temp sending unit.

makes sense to me.
> 1.  If the water temp gauge reads high but the radiator coolant temp is 175 F,
> what are the possibilities?

1. Stuck or sticking thermostat
2. Bad gauge, sending unit, voltage stabalizer.
3. Bad therometer used to measure the tempature inside the radiator.  

I would just replace the thermostat with one I knew opens at the right
tempature.  If that fails to resolve the problem, then look into the
gauge,  sending unit and voltage stabilizer.

David 

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From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:52:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for a RR

Christine - I saw your e-mail, looking for a Range Rover, and although 
this might not be the vehicle your looking for, it is a real bargain on a 
really good, clean, well running Rover, albeit with two existing problems 
- but then...  hence the price.

The truck is a 1990 Range Rover County, graphite gray/gray leather, with 
115,000 miles.  I bought it two years ago when I lost my 1989 Rover in a 
flood.  The truck has never been off-road, from what the previous owner 
told me (he didnıt seem the type anyway), and Iıve kept it on pavement 
for the two years Iıve had it.

The truck has been extremely well maintained, and is exceptionally good, 
inside and out, and under the hood.  The exceptions to this are listed 
below, as well as the maintenance that Iıve done to the truck.  The P.O. 
was finicky as well.  He was strictly a "take it in to the dealer when 
any little thing went wrong" kind of guy.  I checked out his service 
records before I bought it.  Hereıs the good and bad list for the truck:

Problems:

Right after I decided to sell the Rover, I parked it at my office, 
forgetting to put it in park.  The truck rolled into a tree, crunching 
the right front corner.  The insurance company has settled generously, 
but I decided to offer the truck before I had the work done, discounting 
the damage, for someone who wanted a good, cheap, Range Rover.  The 
damage is not serious, but since the body shop uses "Genuine" replacement 
parts and marks them up 25%, the estimate was expensive - $4,322.  The 
parts are: front chrome bumper - $790;  bumper end cap - $90;  "Genuine" 
bush bar - $675;  parking lamp - $118;  side marker lens - $22;  hood 
(this is steel, so it might be repairable) - $788;  2 Rover info labels - 
$9;  Range Rover" letters - $35;  right fender - $475;  and fender 
retaining rail - $5.  They estimate 11.9 refinishing hours and 14.6 labor 
hours @ $40/hour for $1,060 in elbow grease.  The entire job is replacing 
parts except where the hood was pushed back into the right side of the 
cowl, which is slightly dented.  This will need some body work.

For the do-it-your-selfır, searching out used parts would be a major 
savings ($790 for a simple bumper!), as well as doing the "bolt off ­ 
bolt on" assembly of fender, hood, bumper, etc. parts.  Another way to 
approach it would be to  a) not replace the bush bar;  b) replace it with 
an after market bar (half the price/stronger bar);  c) forget the bumper, 
the bumper end cap, and the bar ($1,550) and install an ARB bar with 
winch mount (replaces bumper) for $750;  or  d) bend the old bar (and the 
bumper, possibly) back out and keep them.  The bumper is hardly visible 
with the bush bar in place, and the bar, with the exception of a small 
dent and a scratch, is in good condition.

The second problem is a possible blown head gasket.  In this case the 
parts are cheap (about $200 the Rover dealer tells me), and the rest is 
labor.  From what Iıve learned on the Rover List, the job is straight 
forward, and any mechanic who can work on a Buick V8 can do this one.

Other little things that need to be taken care of on the truck are:  rear 
wiper shaft needs to be disassembled and un-siezed (thereıs been a fix 
posted on the Rover List for this);  rear lift gate spring retainer 
(two-bit hardware store part) needs replacing;  one original fog lamp 
needs repair;  and the steering dampener is nearing the end of its life.

Whatıs right with the truck:

To begin with, Iıve done a lot of custom installations, new parts, and 
upgrades.  Starting at the rear:  Trailer wiring has been added.  The 
truck has a new lift gate and glass, brand new exhaust system, fuel tank 
and fuel filter.

The cargo area inside has been customized with a gorgeous matching wood 
tool box on the right side that holds an Alpine fiber-optic 6-CD changer, 
sub-woofer, and room for all kinds of tools and recovery gear.  The 
standard box that goes around the spare tire cover on the left has been 
reinforced with aluminum channels, and mounts securely with locating pins 
in the floor and custom aluminum brackets to the body.  This can now hold 
another slew of tools and recover gear.  The rear cargo cover is in good 
condition.  Iıve never used it.  There is also a custom-fit rear cargo 
liner thatıs been used once, I think.

The interior is in excellent condition.  The gray leather is near 
perfect, the carpet is in good condition, and I had the head-liner 
replaced a few months ago.  The floor mats arenıt much to speak of, but I 
have a second set of beige mats and carpet that I pulled from my drowned 
Rover that are in excellent condition.  I always meant to have these 
carpet-dyed gray to replace the worn mats, but I never got around to it.  
The beige mats are the extra-plush "Genuine" ones.  

The dash wood is perfect, although the door, shifter, and window lift 
panels have some age cracking in the finish.  These can easily be removed 
and re-lacquered. .  The glass is all good, with the exception of one 
tiny (weıre talking really tiny here) pit in the windshield.  All the 
heated glass ­ front and rear ­ work.  All gauges and controls work.  The 
Rover radio and speakers have been upgraded to the top of the line Alpine 
system (about a $2,000 stereo).  In the dash is a remote controlled 
Alpine AM/FM/cassette.  Six new Alpine speakers are in the doors and the 
rear, along with the sub-woofer and fiber-optic CD changer in the tool 
box.

Underneath, the truck has all new suspension bushings (two months old), 
and Bilstiens that I put on when I bought the Rover.  The tires have good 
tread and are the original specıd Michelins.  

The transmission, transfer case and the rest of the running gear is good. 
 Under the hood I have just replaced the power steering pump and belts 
(last Saturday), and last month the Rover got a new water pump, all new 
radiator and heater hoses, temperature sending unit, and the radiator was 
removed for a small seepage leak, fixed, cleaned and flushed.  The ECU, 
complete distributor, distributor amp, starter motor and all HT wires 
were replaced with new last winter.  It has a brand new heavy duty 
battery (the biggest one that would fit), and last winter the major 
105,000 mile service was done at the Rover dealer.

Other pluses are bush bar mounted Hellas and the fact that, even at 
115,000 miles, oil consumption is almost negligible.  Oil changes were 
done religiously at 3,000 mile intervals.

Rust on the vehicle is minimal.  There were a few problem areas ­ the 
driver footwell and the right rear mud flap bracket ­ that I ground out, 
sealed with silicone, and then undercoated when I bought the truck.  
Further corrosion in these areas has stopped.  The paint (other than the 
damaged areas) is very good.  Very few scratches or nicks, and only a few 
minor door dings on the driverıs side.  Touch up paint is included.

To sum it up:

The car is exceptionally clean and has been very well maintained, and, to 
date (except for the head gaskets and the body work), every problem has 
been fixed ­ not patched.  In addition, there has been a good deal of 
custom work done to make this a functional and comfortable truck.

I have always worked on my vehicles to keep them good looking and long 
running.  My Series IIa that I bought new in 1970 (olı Lulubelle) is 
still running like a top after 28 years and 343,000 miles.  However, 
unlike the Range Rover, that truck is not my primary transportation.  
With the nearest Rover dealer 90 miles away and not enough time in my 
life right now for my family and business commitments, these last two 
problems have pushed me to the decision to sell the Rover.

I truly love the Range Rover, and if I had the pennies in my pocket Iıd 
buy a new one.  So before I go ahead and have the body & heads done and 
then put it for sale at market price, I thought Iıd offer it as a bargain 
to someone on the list who felt the same as I do about the trucks and 
would prefer to do the work on it themselves (oh yes..  I have complete 
shop manuals too).  Believe me, youıll end up with a real gem if youıre 
capable.  I have tried to make this condition-assessment of my Rover as 
comprehensive as possible.  Range Rover owners are usually Rover lovers, 
and I wouldnıt want to fob off any hidden problems on someone who is 
passionate about the vehicles.

So right now Iım holding it out of the body shop for a week to see if 
anyone is interested.  After that I will make all of the necessary 
repairs and advertise it for sale.  The Edmundıs Blue Book is $14,900 for 
the truck.  Iıll be selling it fixed for $13,500, or "as is" for $6,500 
firm.

If you have any questions, please call.

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

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From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:35:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Last word on TeriAnn's diesel...TW

 Lately I have been having dreams of taking the Green Rover on an
extended 
 tour of Europe where petrol is REAL expensive and diesel is just 
 expensive.

When you do plan your trip, make sure to budget for fuel. Current
prices over here run $1.00 to $1.10 per liter for unleaded and around
$.60 for diesel. The prices for diesel and unleaded run about the same
in the UK($1 + per liter). I'm pretty sure the conversion rate is 3.2
liters per gallon.
Smitty

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From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@MAGNET.MT>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:37:44 +0100
Subject: RE:Re: Cooling system questions

I am having a slightly similar problem.

My temp gauge will go almost to the end of the white band and then after a 
while 
all of a sudden the needle will go down again to the middle of the white band.  
Is it normal or is there something fishy going on.

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

David Scheidt:

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From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:50:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Looking for a RR

This tends to be a bit of a global list. What part of the world be ye
in, there Chris??????.....:-)
Smitty
---christine  wrote:
 Greetings --
 I'm in the market for a late 80's to early 90's Range Rover.  Anyone
have 
 any leads, please let me know.  While I don't have any specific 
 requirements, I would like to point out that this won't be a 
 "grocery-getter."  I recently moved to wonderful house down a 2-mile, 
 one-lane, cliff-hugging, dirt road that just beckons for one of
these.... 
  I've admired them from afar for quite some time, and now I finally
have 
 a good reason to buy one!
 Thanks for any help you can give.
 -Christine     

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From: "Jos de Vries" <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:58:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Last word on TeriAnn's diesel...TW

Dale smith wrote:
I'm pretty sure the conversion rate is 3.2 liters per gallon.

sorry , all wrong, 1 gallon = 4,546 liters
but he is right about those fuel prices.

 

greetings

Jos de Vries

Land Rover SANTANA 109 D SW '71 
Land Rover 88 ex-mod '75

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From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
Date:          Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:40:13 +0200
Subject:       Re: Last word on TeriAnn's diesel...TW

> in the UK($1 + per liter). I'm pretty sure the conversion rate is 3.2
> liters per gallon.

Depneds if it's an Imperial gallon or a U.S. Gallon.  Imperial 
gallon is 4.5 Litres 

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:34:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Cooling system questions

makes sense to me.
 1.  If the water temp gauge reads high but the radiator coolant temp is 175 F,
 what are the possibilities?
1. Stuck or sticking thermostat
2. Bad gauge, sending unit, voltage stabalizer.
3. Bad therometer used to measure the tempature inside the radiator.

I would just replace the thermostat with one I knew opens at the right
>tempature.  If that fails to resolve the problem, then look into the
>gauge,  sending unit and voltage stabilizer.

I agree,but check the fan belt isnt slipping first.(Easiest and Cheapest
First).

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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