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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 08:46:51 -0500
Subject: cummins

TeriAnn

I hate to even mention this since I am taking so long to get it done, but I 
have a 109 series coil chassis with a Cummins diesel installed in it 
sitting in my barn right now.  Most people don't know that the very same 
engine, less two cylinders, is available as the Cummins 4BT, 3.9 L, 115 HP, 
260 ft/lbs torque at 1200 rpm, 300 at 2600, turbo with water jacket 
intercooler or air exchange intercooler.  And it is just slightly larger 
than the LR 2.25 if you add in the carburettor, though it weighs 705 lbs 
and requires some creative engineering of mounts.  I will be using it with 
the recessed grill nose and minimum rework of the 110 bulkhead  where the 
13 inch !!! clutch housing and Ford 5 speed F350 trans go.  It wll not fit 
in an 88 due to length of the drivetrain, ( ZF 5 spd transmission and NP 
205 transfer case, GM 14 bolt rear, F250 front.)  Anyway, the point is it 
will fit between the rails, it will require beefier drive train, but could 
probably use LR Defender coil axles if driven carefully, (see 4.2 petrol 
engine specs), and will require some mods to a galv coiler frame, (mine is 
a Walker which has the front crossmember ahead of the breakfast, and the 
removable crossmember must be repositioned.  It also has a 1.5 inch body 
lift.)

The back end of the engine and most of the accessories are the same as the 
Dodge 5.9 cummins, so the easiest route to go would be to use a Dodge 
diesel NV 4500 and an earlier NP 205 to match the front axle you 
choose, since the width of the later chain drive transfer cases is a 
limiting factor.  I would do this if I were starting over.  I have made and 
learned from all the mistakes possible here so would be glad to speak 
privately to anyone interested, or would post jpg's to the DELRC website if 
anyone cares.  As I said, I'm rather embarrassed as old hands on this list 
will remember I started this project 5 years ago.  I have no idea how it 
will turn out as a road vehicle, but have worked out the rpm, tranny, axle 
ratio,  tire size thing for this engine and it looks rather promising, both 
at cruise and in low 4WD, and Dodge trucks do well using the same rpm 
ranges .  Interestingly enough it will be a two doormobile like yours, 
since I have a Dormie top, so I have been lurking rather heavily on your 
own progress, and profiting from your own adventures.  That's the plan 
anyway, though if noise, vibration, heat or other things make it more 
uncomfortable than a 2.25 109 Dormobile at 75 mph, I may just use it 
offroad. (humor intended).

See also Cummins 6AT for even more fantasy.  Same size as a Chevy six. 
Comes with factory adapter plate for GM trans.  Both these engines are 
well thought out and relatively common replacements for Ford and Chevy 
pickups.  There is a company in the Southwest doing several a month.  They 
were also used in delivery vans and bread trucks.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: Allen Northwood <nella@enternet.com.au>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 23:10:19 +1000
Subject: breaking axles

Hi everyone.

In the discussions/surveys about broken axle shafts, are we discussing
Rover *and* Salisbury diffs/axles?

The Salisbury axles supposed to be a fair bit stronger, but do they also
break under normal use?

TIA

Allen
'69 109
Sydney, Aust.
 

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From: Joseph Broach <mbroach@utk.edu>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 10:05:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 80 psi, what the...

Hey gang,

In preparation for its planned launch from the garage, I bought some new
tires for Sidney, my IIa 88 frameover. I was lucky enough to find 4
Trac-Edge clones (Country Squires by name) at the local Co-op. The tire
(like the Trac Edge) is rated at a max press of 80psi, but I always figured
that this was just for heavy pickup loads or something. The guys mounting
the tires, though, said they wouldn't run them below 65-70 psi, even with
the radial tubes I had mounted. Surely this isn't right. What pressure do
you run in your Trac-Edges and similar? Thanks,

overinflated in knoxville,
joseph
'67 IIa 88 "Sidney" bumblingly restored by his faithful owner

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 12:08:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 1959 SII distributor timing q's, please help

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> Out once again on the truck doing this and that. I proceeded to set the
> timing and handcranked the engin over to where the TDC, 3*, and 6* markings
> were on the flywheel. The manual says to set to 6* which I did, and then
> connect a test light between the LT at the distributor and ground which I
> did.
> Looking at the engine from the right hand side of the truck, the rotor was
> basically towards 6 o'clock: this I would assume would be the start of
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> get good acceleration). Do I have the advance off? I just don't understand
> why the rotor appears to be starting contact with plug 2 and not plug 1!!!!
Remember the Distributor turns counterclockwise. your plug wires are in
the right place. Now bearing in mind that the motion is counterclockwise 
are you sure that the rotor is not nearing number 1 ?
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 12:14:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 59 SII engine RPM questions

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> After setting my timing (see previous posting and associated problems), I
> turned to trying to determine my RPMs in an attempt to set the Rochester
> idle mix. I broke down several months ago and picked up a Fluke 88 (one of
> the really nice Flukes which comes with an RPM inductive lead). I follow (I
> think :>) the instructions on getting an RPM reading: connect inductive lead
> around a plug wire, with specific side of pickup toward spark plug, set
> meter to RPM, set to type 2 (4cycle, non-DIS) and then start engine (at
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> What am I missing here??
> TIA,
 try reversing the direction of the inductive pickup. I don't supose
it'll work though. sounds like you may have the meter on the wrong
scale.You bought the best when you got the Fluke. check the book with
the meter there may be a help line to Fluke. They used to have one.
     John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 12:18:44 -0300
Subject: Re: rochester adjustments on 59 SII

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> As you may have read severl other recent posts, I am trying to time and set
> carb for said vehicle. I have the rochester carb and no real info on how to
> properly set the mixture correctly. If I have the ignition set correctly,
> then the last step should be setting the carb correctly. I have bluish smoke
> all of the time and it sputters black droplets out the tail pipe and the 100
> miles new plugs, I believe properly gapped, have a dry block suet all over
> them (not wet). The Haynes manual suggests this symptom is caused be overly
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> doesn't adequately explain setting the carb up. Any pointers would be
> greatly appreciated.
sounds like your float level is too high. you may have to bend the tab
that pushes the needle valve shut so that it closes a little sooner.
There is a measurement for this for various vehicles but I could never
find the spec for a Land Rover application so you'll have to experiment
a bit.
     John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 12:24:58 -0300
Subject: Re: breaking axles

Allen Northwood wrote:
> Hi everyone.
> In the discussions/surveys about broken axle shafts, are we discussing
> Rover *and* Salisbury diffs/axles?
> The Salisbury axles supposed to be a fair bit stronger, but do they also
> break under normal use?

 very rarely. This a version of the Dana 60 axle used in full sized 3/4
ton 4x4 Fords with a 7.3 diesel. The only trouble I have had with mine
is the splines in the driver wearing out but that is easy to spot and
easy to fix as it is right at the outerend in the center of the hub.
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 12:33:06 -0300
Subject: Re: 80 psi, what the...

Joseph Broach wrote:
> Hey gang,
> In preparation for its planned launch from the garage, I bought some new
> tires for Sidney, my IIa 88 frameover. I was lucky enough to find 4
> Trac-Edge clones (Country Squires by name) at the local Co-op. The tire
> (like the Trac Edge) is rated at a max press of 80psi, but I always figured
> that this was just for heavy pickup loads or something. The guys mounting
> the tires, though, said they wouldn't run them below 65-70 psi, even with
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> the radial tubes I had mounted. Surely this isn't right. What pressure do
> you run in your Trac-Edges and similar? Thanks,
 That guy must be the brother of your dentist. That pressure will shake
your teeth out!. It is unlikely that you'll need more than 30 psi. Much
more than that will wear out the center of the tread prematurely as the
will only be a narrow band of tread on the road. You can check this by
wetting your tire and driving over a dry piece of paper and comparing
the imprint with the actual tread.
     John and Muddy.
  Ps you may have started a lenghty thread here as some people are
convinced that you need lots of the restore the original "ride" of a
Land Rover on 600-16 biasply tires :)

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 18:35:06 +0100
Subject: 50TH anniversary Defender.(long)

Just thought I would let you all know that I have just come back from an
Evans Halshaw driving event at Waterhouses near Leek. They wanted
experianced [g] drivers to take vehicles round with some of there
customers. So arrived this morning Saturday to see various Range Rovers,
Discoveries, FreeLanders a Defender 110 and finally a Defender 90 50TH 
anniversary limited edition numbered GB076 just waiting to be driven!.

So after taking my mates series 1 trialler round with a few people
strapped in tightly I was waiting to get in a slightly newer motor and 
one of the club members pulled up in the Defender 90 and asked if I
would like to take over from him so I did not refuse!. The 90 is awesome
with that 4 litre V8 up front and is effortless to drive with the
automatic taking care of things, the accelaration in low-box was so
instant I could not believe it. The engine was so silky smooth it was
an absolute dream to drive it goes sideways ever so easy it was only
shod on BFG Tracedges so when it got a bit greasy you know what happens.
But for the anniversary model there is a couple of things it should have
electric windows and central locking on a £26000 car should be a must.
Still it was a fabulous thing to drive and i will probably always
remeber it.
-- 
andy Smith
1965 V8 ser2a swb 
1971 2.25 Petrol swb
Staffs and Shrops Land Rover Club.
Tamworth Staffs.

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 11:42:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Newbie Question for the experts...

Hi Dave, 
My `96 Disco SD has been very good mechanically and after the hub seals,
headliner , dash.   Overall everything has been cosmetic in nature. So I say
to you find a `96 or  `97 that is still under warranty , leave it outside so
that you can get the dash replaced when it starts to curl.
RGDS, Rick

`63 SIIa 88'' (for sale)
`65 SIIa 88''
`94 D-90 soft top
`96 Disco SD
`98 BMW Z-3

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 08:57:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Diesel Dreams...

>In a message dated 22/08/98 23:41:03 BST, you write:
><< leave this to the twisted souls doing a coiler conversions or a hybrid of
> some sort. One can always dream.... >>
>How about in a hopped up rolling chassis Russ??? :-)>

The thought never even crossed my mind...;)

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 09:37:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake lines.  Is thread tape kosher/

Wolfe, Charles wrote:

> I replaced all my brake lines and during bleeding I found that my brake
> line connection to the rear right brake cylinder is leaking.  I
> disconnected and reconnected and it does not appear to be cross
> threaded.  Is pipe thread tape exceptable?

I suppose it would be acceptable from reaction with fluid perspective... but
I would take exception (exceptable :) )

I'd be very hesistant about hiding a symptom of an underlying problem on the

brake system.

Just my opinion

Jeremy

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 09:38:19 -0700
Subject: RE: 1959 SII distributor timing q's, please help

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> Out once again on the truck doing this and that. I proceeded to set the
> timing and handcranked the engin over to where the TDC, 3*, and 6*
markings
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 24 lines)]
> get good acceleration). Do I have the advance off? I just don't understand
> why the rotor appears to be starting contact with plug 2 and not plug
1!!!!

Remember the Distributor turns counterclockwise. your plug wires are in
the right place. Now bearing in mind that the motion is counterclockwise
are you sure that the rotor is not nearing number 1 ?
    John and Muddy

As far as it appears to me!! When the flywheel marking is at 6* the rotor is
pointing straight down with the leading metal flange just about where the #2
wire would be. #1 wire is still up at around 2 o'clock. I even went so far
as to put the #1 wire down at the 5 o'clock position and reposition the
other wires after that to fire in the correct 1, 3, 4, 2 order. No firing
and strange cranking. The only two things that come to mind are that that
come to mind are that the distributor is in wrong (out by 90 degrees) or
that the rotor wasn't fully down when I set the timing and therefore got an
incorrect reading of where the rotor was.

The engine runs acceptably when these wires are in the "correct" listed
order. I also had the original cap around and the po had scratched the
number of lines in the wire stepup for the correct plug.

This suggests that #2 is firing when the #2 piston is completing its power
stroke. I definitely don't understand something simple here!!!!!!!

Thanks,

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[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 Received: from nathan.enteract.com 
(dscheidt@207.229.143.6)

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 13:52:42 EDT
Subject: Re:  80 psi, what the...

In a message dated 8/23/98 10:06:24 AM, you wrote:

<<The tire
(like the Trac Edge) is rated at a max press of 80psi, but I always figured
that this was just for heavy pickup loads or something. The guys mounting
the tires, though, said they wouldn't run them below 65-70 psi, even with
the radial tubes I had mounted. Surely this isn't right.>>

I've got 245/75R16 Trac Edges on my 110. They were mounted with Michelin
Radial Tubes and balanced, etc. at 80 psi. I was then returned the truck with
70 # in each tire. I thought that was way too much, but didn't know the tires
were "Load Range *E*", rated up to 80#/tire. I told the Michelin Dealer who
mounted them that LR suggested 28/38 or something like that for tyres on the
110. He laughed and told me to try it, and I did. The truck rode like with the
OEM tires, (nice & comfy) except it steered a little vaguer, and I thought it
was bordering on dangerous cornering on freeway offramps. The next day I went
offroading in a forest in N. FL and pinched the two front tubes. I put in my
spares and re-inflated the whole set to 60#/tire. I've been running them at
that, or close to it since.  

Contrary to 99% of public opinion, I did not air down at all for offroading at
Greek Peak. I took my truck up the hill and through all the courses with 60#
of air in the tires, and for some sections, up to four people in the truck
(during marshalling and setting-up the courses). The tires worked *as well for
me as anyone else's did for them*, IMHO. 

We all saw tricked out trucks get stuck, even with 25#s in their mud terrains;
while others too lazy to air down (me) and too cheap to spend for mud terrains
(you go nameless) got through ok. I'll bet I wasn't the only one to turn up
and leave their tires alone...

Unless I'm in rock terrain with ledges and such to contend with and a need for
acres of contact patch, I don't think I'll be taking too much air out of my
tires. The skinny, tall shape of these things I'd rather keep, than air down
and have them go all over the place. On the other hand if I had tires designed
for flotation, I'd air them down and try like hell to float.

I just drove 5500+ miles this past month, and with rotations every 2000 miles,
I have not noticed abnormal wear yet.

I did notice at GP that the people with 235/85R16 Trac Edges can't run them at
anywhere near 80#. That size isn't rated for it.

What may be harsh on you is the ride at high pressure, as I'm sure the coils
treat me a little better, even at 60#s.

--pat.
93 "rolling on rocks" 110

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 13:59:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake lines.  Is thread tape kosher/[multipart mime alternative 5 
lines de

In a message dated 23/08/98 01:01:15 BST, you write:

<< Unlike Frank, I have never used PTFE on the brakes - but on the heater
 valve and temp. sensor - that's another question! >>
Adrian,
I don't mind you taking a different view - just so long as you are
there!!!!!!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 14:29:02 EDT
Subject: Re: 80 psi, what the...

In a message dated 23/08/98 16:32:45 BST, you write:

 > the radial tubes I had mounted. Surely this isn't right. What pressure do
 > you run in your Trac-Edges and similar? Thanks, >>
They have to be kidding!!!

With my General Grabbers on Disco steels I run 37lbs all round on my 110 which
is loaded (roll cage, winch, tools, recovery gear etc).Go up to 46 on the rear
when towing my caravan which is perfect then, but if I forget to drop 'em when
the 'van is off the roadholding at rear is rubbish.
65lbs and you wouldn't get round the first bend in the rain - and probably not
in the dry either.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 14:29:20 EDT
Subject: Re: 80 psi, what the...

In a message dated 23/08/98 18:53:56 BST, you write:

<< I put in my
 spares and re-inflated the whole set to 60#/tire. I've been running them at
 that, or close to it since.  
 
 Contrary to 99% of public opinion, I did not air down at all for offroading
at
 Greek Peak. I took my truck up the hill and through all the courses with 60#
 of air in the tires, and for some sections, up to four people in the truck
 (during marshalling and setting-up the courses). The tires worked *as well
for
 me as anyone else's did for them*, IMHO. 
 
 We all saw tricked out trucks get stuck, even with 25#s in their mud
terrains;
 while others too lazy to air down (me) and too cheap to spend f >>

Two points if I may gentlemen.

1. Tyres heat up, and the air inside expands. The MAX pressure has nothing at
all to do with what pressure you run the vehicle on under normal motoring-
it's just a safety figure for when you're overloaded and to stop the tyre
going BANG. however, running a tyre ten lbs below maximum pressure means that
you could reach that on a long highway journey, then it would go BANG.....

2. Pat's laziness. Been there, done that got the tshirt filthy in deep English
mud....but often (enough for comparisons) got through when I would expect to
have aired down. Then spoke to a geezer from Yokohama Tyres who said that
their research has shown that harder tyres throw the mud out of the treads
better than aired down. So you're getting the same result for different
reasons: aired down equals better flotation but treads fill up hence slicks
and less grip. Hard tyres equals less flotation but treads selfclean hence
better grip.
Me I take the lazy option and never air down until I'm stuck (therefore the
dirty tshirt)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 14:29:01 EDT
Subject: Re: 80 psi, what the...

In a message dated 23/08/98 16:32:45 BST, you write:

 > the radial tubes I had mounted. Surely this isn't right. What pressure do
 > you run in your Trac-Edges and similar? Thanks, >>
They have to be kidding!!!

With my General Grabbers on Disco steels I run 37lbs all round on my 110 which
is loaded (roll cage, winch, tools, recovery gear etc).Go up to 46 on the rear
when towing my caravan which is perfect then, but if I forget to drop 'em when
the 'van is off the roadholding at rear is rubbish.
65lbs and you wouldn't get round the first bend in the rain - and probably not
in the dry either.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 15:05:07 EDT
Subject: More Power for a Land Rover!

                   
On Sat, 22 Aug 98 TeriAnn Wakeman wroteabout the 5.9L Diesel conversion:
"I figure I could cut a day off the drive to Moab & do it more often.  I also
want to set a trailer up as a mobil film processing lab.  I would like to be
able to pull it."

Aha!  The trailer is the answer to your dreams.  Install in the trailer,
facing forward, a big honking Deetroit V8 with a drive shaft going through the
rear crossmember hole to connect to the back of the transfer case where the
overdrive should be.  There are a few minor details to be worked out about
driveline, U-joints, slipjoints, etc.

This simple and elegant solution will allow you the power to pass those pesly
VW vans as well as those pokey 2.25 things, and this method is simpler and
safer than the JATO and Allison V12 conversions.

Think outside of the aluminum box.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover Dormobile (without power enhancement trailer)
Denver

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 15:52:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake lines.  Is thread tape kosher/

That would be a negative.

Pipe threads are tapered and crush to fit.  Brake lines have a fit to bottom
which the fitting crushes a flange at the bottom.

Pipe dope or tape will come out when you wnat it most.

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 15:59:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Diesel Dreams...

In 1980 or so the kid down the block put a cat V8 diesel into his 4wd chevy,
at idle it would allow a drop into Fourth gear with driver maintained hard
pressure on the brakes and roll away with the brakes on and squealing without
changing idle speed.  Now that is power.  He was using it to tow large boats
to Tahoe from Sacramento.  He took it out later, couldn;t keep the rest of the
rig together.  Too much for a Series, so sad.

Zack Arbios

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 14:49:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake lines.  Is thread tape kosher/

Pipe tape is normally wrapped onto the threads. The threads in this application
are not the sealing system, but as has been mentioned already the tube flare to
wheel cylinder interface is. If the wheel cylinder to tube are not sealing, you
can wrap the threads in tape and the brake fluid will run out between the tube
and the nut. I'd find out why the flare leaks. Two months ago I replaced the
brake lines on a 109. The brake lines provided by the owner who bought them
locally had the wrong nut on the end of the line. The threads were not long
enough to bottom the tubing flare out in the wheel cylinder and allow it to
seal. Maybe you have a similar problem.

Tom

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From: John Wood <jwood@solihullsociety.org>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 16:37:03 -0600
Subject: Aug. 29th - 30th :Great Sand Dunes, CO

All,
Just wanted to be sure to invite all those able and wanting to the next 
Solihull Society outing:

The Great Sand Dunes National Monument.

Meeting in Colorado Springs at 9:00am on Saturday 29, August

Also meeting in Bradford, off HWY 69 west of I-25 at 12:00noon

Continue to Medano Pass and over into Great Sand Dunes.
We will camp for the night at the dunes and look to do some driving both on and 
around the dunes.

All are invited. If you have questions please contact 
John Wood at 303/774-9225 or jwrover@colo-net.com 

Yours'
John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society 

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 17:51:06 -0500
Subject: brake lines continued

I went out to the shop and removed and refitted the right rear brake
line from the brake cylinder.  All mating surfaces appeared good.
Threads well.

I retighted.  When systme was pressurized, it leaks.  Not from the
threads but rather between the line and the coupleing nut!!.  I don't
like this.

So what would you do?  Is there a simple fix.  Should I get another
line?  Is it likely to be the mateing surface of the cylinder?

Please advise!

Cwolfe

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 18:19:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: brake lines continued

> I retighted.  When systme was pressurized, it leaks.  Not from the
> threads but rather between the line and the coupleing nut!!.  I don't
> like this.

This is likely a mismatch between the end of the brake line and the mating
surface in the wheel cylinder.  I don't know what sort you should have,
but I'll bet it is the same on the other side.  It is also possible that
you don't have enough threads on the swivel nut.

David

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 01:23:57 +0200
Subject: Re: Brake lines.  Is thread tape kosher/[multipart mime alternative 5 
lines de

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
Adrian,
I don't mind you taking a different view - just so long as you are
there!!!!!!!

Hi Frank - (and all)

Yep - I'm still there - just getting over my
post-greenland-landy-trauma. When I wrote last, I had just returned from
a mind-blowing three weeks in the Arctic, having covered the Inuit
Circumpolar Conference for Alaska Public Radio Network. I had native
politics on my mind as well as the many challenges which I face at the
moment - how to keep my company running for the coming year when i will
be working away a lot in Alaska. Three weeks of intense human issues,
combined with utter arctic tranquility when dissapearing up the fjord,
where a land rover is as good as a glass eye, had rendered all things
european totally useless.

The Arctic has this effect on people. It has for me for the past 13
years - all that space and air, the problems of back-home seem both
irrelevant and a waste of time.

I got a pile of replies to my mail - Dixon, Bill Adams, Frank, to name
but a few managed to put things in some form of perspective. Ned Heite,
with his quaker economy of words summed it all up - "Patience". It was
heartwarming to hear that I'm not alone with these very unroverly
feelings!

My 88 is running fine after the mammoth rebuild - the drivers window
jumps out (in) when you slam the door because the latch doesn't line up.
The gearbox pops out of 4th with a will of it's own, but she drives like
a rocket (ok - a deisel rocket). She doesn't smoke too much, there still
isn't a spot of oil under the hood after over 1300 kilometeres since the
rebuild (yep - I did fill oil in the motor, and it has stayed there),
and the lights are still working. What have I to complain about? Well
the seat belt lock doesn't, and the lack of door seals which were not on
stock at the time let's a smidgeon of water in. But it seems that the
rebuild was worth it.

The 109" star5ts, runs, smokes a little, but does not seem the worse for
wear considering that the lid has been opened about three times this
year. It seems a case of "if it works, don't repair it". Having just
changes a complete firewall on the 88, I am all to aware of the fun
which awaits on the 109. the same is true for the axles and swivel balls
- when you actually have one which is in perfect condition, you start to
notice the drips and rusty bits on the other.

That was actually the point of my spare axle thread before the holidays.
I want to have these cars in tip-top nick, but I don't fancy a mammoth
frame-up every year, or having a dismantled rover clutter up my studio
for six months at a time. So I will probably find a couple of spare
axles (I am already on the trail of a salisbury) which i can rebuild at
leisure, then change quickly, then rebuild the old ones when i feel like
it. I have the idea that having such parts on the shelf will take some
of the trauma out of rovering.

My other 88" is still in mothballs. But she's clean as a whistle, needs
a little work on the engine and the brakes, including an update to the
later series III servo, and I have space to let her stand in the
workshop - so she will wait for another summer. (perhaps 2000)

All in all, I guess that my rovers are worth the pain, and the cost of
having them is far less than the cost of tin boxes of the other ilk. But
it's been a heavy year. The good part is, that if our household manage
to avoid rolling a wagon over, we probably won't have to use big bucks
on the 88 for about 5 years.

So yes, I'm alive and kickin, lurkin' away in some corner of the list,
but still to occupied to make my presence felt...

Enjoy the break guys...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 20:51:46 +0100
Subject: Is everyone working on their brakes?

Okay... sorry about more brake questions, but I'm not quite sure what to do 
now besides re-ajust my left front brake once a week. 

My brakes were originally pulling to the right, so I got down and set the 
adjuster so that they were even... This is proof that it's the simple things
in life that make you happy... well, until they start fucking up again... 

So they start pulling again, and I get down, and what do you know,
I have to really crank the adjuster bolt to get the shoes where they should
be. So then I drove around again. Happy that my brakes aren't pulling,
but wait... as I near the end of my sunday afternoon cruise of setting off 
car alarms, they are slighly pulling again, and I'll bet the more I drive,
the more they pull... 

I could almost justify this as anything, except that as long as I get 
down there and adjust the brakes, then everything's fine for a few miles
of stop and go, but after that, they seem to progressively pull more 
to the right... Any ideas?

And while I'm here... Maybe I'm in the only place in the world that 
this could happen, but I can be working on my car on one block
and meet the nicest people in the world... An old north african
guy who barely spoke english, but was telling stories about how
great these things were in the desert... He could have been telling
me they saved his life one day for all I know, and  an 11 year old boy 
who just wanted to hang out and hand me tools while I was working 
(at 11 he even knew what an old rover was)... and then I'm literally 
two blocks the other direction and a bunch of cocky teenagers are 
pointing and laughing as I work on the truck... yeah... fuck them, I 
know, but it just pisses me off... but I'm easily pissed off at the 
moment... my first REAL web site goes live in a week, and I'm 
about to go crazy... Thank god I have something that I can go work
on that has about as many transistors as I can count on one hand.

well... thanks for letting me vent...

-Scott
 1973 SIII 88"

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 19:10:00 -0600
Subject: Congrats To Wes

Wes; fantastic job, and a great day in the Burgh.  I figure
that the trip down the alley was to the left?  Now that its
running, when are you and the SO making it to the Rockies?
We're waiting.  I'm so happy for you that IM gonna get
another martini right now.

Send pics ASAP

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: Philip and Aimee Houser <pahouser@fidnet.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 14:28:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 5.9 L Cummings diesel

Does anyone know anything about this engine??  I wonder how big it is
compaired to a Chevy 6 cyl petrol and if it would fit into a series LR.

ANyone know enough about this engine to speculate??????

~~~~ Don't know enough to speculate on the fit in a LR, but it is a fine
engine.  Been around for a while and in my opinion its the best small
diesel available in a new vehicle (small meaning less than 10L).  Quite a
lot of those dodge trucks have done over-the-road type service, with
100,000 miles a year with GVW as much as 15 short tons.  Pretty rough
service, and they do well!  Cummins has a web site, but I don't remember
the URL for sure.(www.cummins.com?)

If it fits, I think it would be a worthy modification!!

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 23:27:07 EDT
Subject: Re: brake lines continued

Could be either a bad flare on the end of your tubing, or a bad seat on the
end of the tapped hole into the cylinder.  If the end of either isn't good,
the leak you describe will occur.  Predictably, the brakes won't happen
either.  perhaps a mirror on a stick will allow you to view before you remove
for inspection.  But then perhaps access to a different brake line for testing
purposes is easy for you

Zack Arbios

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 21:57:06 -0600
Subject: Re: brake lines continued

At 05:51 PM 23/08/98 -0500, Wolfe, Charles, wrote

>I retighted.  When systme was pressurized, it leaks.  Not from the
>threads but rather between the line and the coupleing nut!!

This drove me nuts for a day until I just sat down and thought out how the
flared end, the nut, and the cylinder had to work.  

It turned out that the flared end was not meeting, or mating, with the brake
cylinder connection at exactly the right angle.  There was also a bit of
roughness on the back of the flared end that probably didn't help.  After
carefully lining up the mating angles and polishing the back end as well as
the front end of the flare I was finally able to achieve a leakless connection.

(by the way, I too also use sealing tape on bleed nuts + a whole bunch more
stuff)

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 21:57:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Is everyone working on their brakes?

At 08:51 PM 23/08/98 +0100, Scott Wilson, wrote

>down there and adjust the brakes, then everything's fine for a few miles
>of stop and go, but after that, they seem to progressively pull more 
>to the right... Any ideas?

I had a similar problem and I thought that the answer was new adjusters.  I
ordered a full set but before they arrived I decided to just run a
triangular file down the valleys of the serations of the adjuster cams to
provide more bite for the brake lining post.  That did the trick; no more
progressively screwed up brakes.

I think that there must be a fair bit of vibration between the brake lining
post and the adjuster cam, so much so that after a while the cam gets worn
down and the thing gradually starts to un-adjust itself.  I would imagine
that weakened return springs would make the problem manifest itself rather
quickly.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 00:00:35 EDT
Subject: Jumping out of Fourth Gear, SIIa

Hi everyone, I'm having a problem with the transmission on my '64 IIa 88" Does
anyone have an Idea what could be wrong? It all started about two weeks
ago....

I was driving back up to Maine from Conn., it was the weekend after Greek
Peak, I was on cruising on the highway and all of a sudden, the shifter jumps
out of fourth gear. Then about five min. Later, it does it again, and keeps on
about every five to ten minutes. 

Soon, it became somewhat predictable, always just before the crest of a hill.
Sometimes, however, again just after the crest, on the down slope. I tried
holding it in gear, figuring the detent spring had gone, but to my horror, I
felt it pop out of gear with some force. I tried resisting the force and
holding it in gear, but that caused it to feel as though it was skipping a
tooth, and then it tried too jump out of gear again, so I let it.  

Well, friends, it was a sunny Saturday morning, so I pulled in to a rest stop
and called RN. Lanny gave me some theories and off I went to go open the
inspection covers. All this was complicated because  I had two passengers who
were uninitiated into the world of Vintage Land Rovers. Unfortunately, the
inspection ports revealed nothing of the problem. What else to do? I decided
that I would drive on to the next town. 

The problem kept happening, but it wasnt getting worse, so I decided to just
go as far as I could before giving up, less distance to tow it anyway. As it
turned out, we made it to Maine only a couple hours late. As far as I can
tell, none of the other gears are effected, only 4th. 

Does anyone have an idea of what it could be?
Should I try to fix the tranny, or just buy a rebuilt one and drop it in?

Thanks in advance,

Peter Doncaster
'64 IIa 88" SW

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From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 01:46:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaving for 2 weeks

Hi Everyone:
    Just a quick note to say I'm unsubscribing for a couple of weeks while I
go to Alaska.  Hope ya'll have as good a time as I will!  See ya when I get
back.

Yours:

Drew Squires
66 109 (Still Getting Dressed)
drewteri@concentric.net

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From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 02:51:32 -0400
Subject: Re: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 20:20:56 +1000
Subject: Rust in Series III

I'm looking at a Series III LWB SW.  It seems pretty much clear of rust,
especially in the bulkhead and chassis.  In fact, I can't see any.  But,
there is rust in the sill area directly below the rear doors  - i.e. the
doors on the side, not the very rear door.  I'm not sure what area one would
call it but is it hard to cut this area out and repair it?

I sold my last remaining Hillman yesterday and am looking at a replacement
restoration vehicle.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 20:40:03 +1000
Subject: steering wheel removal 

Someone wrote:
>Actually, an alcohol-based penetrant (castor oil and alcohol mixed, or the
>like) might work better -

Hmm, that's model aero engine fuel - 20% castor oil, 80% Menthanol.
Assuming it doesn't have nitromethane in it.

Ron

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