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From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:54:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Southdown USA

Southdown USA is alive and well here in the US.  They were at the Greek
Peak event with their products(as well as Dave Wilkinson from the UK).
They are making all the products for Rovers currently, just as they are
made in the UK.  Jim Pappas is heading up the effort here in the US, but I
don't know his phone #.

regards, John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: 1970 Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery "Chukka," 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966
Series IIA 88" "SWAMBO,"  1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller,"  1968
Porsche 911L, Series 109" Project

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From: ILeone@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:16:58 EDT
Subject: the list....

please send address list....i hope i have this right....thanks		

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 06:55:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE (com. content)

>1967 RHD 88  Galv. Frame, Rebuilt engine w/ unleaded head & weber 2bbl.
>*Fairy Overdrive* Tailgate/liftgate, new wires, new springs.. Needs paint
>and some new seats. Has been my daily driver for over 3yrs.... very
>dependable truck. $7,500 obo
>1972 LHD 88 Tropical Top, full galv roof rack, warn hubs, new gastank, new
>fuelpump, new clutch master, new rear crossmember. 16" wheels,  Frame is
>solid but needs two outriggers installed(included)  Engine is smooth.
>Tranny is quiet and does not jump out of gear.  $7,500 obo
>303-485-0434
Sorry for the brain cramp....the vehicles and myself are in Denver, Co.
$500.00 will ship a rover just about anywhere in the U.S. from here
though......

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 07:15:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel storage and capacity in 88's

Hi, 
I have the 88 that Zack mentioned with a rear tank. It's Sherman 69-88.
For a quick description of it:
The tank is from a CJ7 using unleaded this gives a thinner fill hose which
helps the fit.
The tank comes with a skid plate for a mounting.It holds 15-17 gallons.
I had to flatten the side lips to fit it between the frame. I made a front
support by bolting a steel bar across in front after mounting the skid
plate and tank to the rear crossmember.
The fill pipe is new gasproof hose and it curls up through the frame and
bottom of the tub on the right side. (By using an unleaded tank with the
thinner fill hose, it snakes through without any cutting.) 
The filler came from the same CJ7 and fit on the flat rear of the tub near
the right tail light as high as I could go without interfering with the top
of the fenderwell. It is approx 4"x5" plastic recessed box so the fill cap
doesn't protrude. 
Take a look a the rear of a CJ to see what I mean. The CJ filler makes a
lot more sense than having the filler inside.
Of course I added a brass tank switch valve on the right center of the
seatbox.
Oh,, One more thing, The float works with a Stewart Warner gauge, so I have
an extra fuel gage in the panel. Nothing matches either of the L-R
float/guages, 
But the American companies like Stewart Warner and others have the AMC units.
 
Any questions I'll be happy to try to answer.

One thing I forgot to mention, The muffler would be in the way. I decided
the rear tank was much more valuable than the original muffler, so now
Sherman has a flat muffler under the driver more or less like a CJ. I am
quite happy with this. There are probably other muffler options a good
muffler shop could suggest.

Bob Bernard

Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Shorty"

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 98 07:14:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Distributor bummer

>So I am getting closer to firing up the turner.  Was securing the
>distributor in place and realized that is was not engaged.  Hmm.
;>Realized that the distributor was not reaching far enough to engage.  I
;>think I found another difference between a II and a IIA engine.  It
;>appears that the mounting block for the distributor is too thick.  Will
;>have to call RN in AM to confirm my suspicions.  Really bums me out.
;>Means I am at least a UPS roadtrip from VT to MN away from cranking her
;>over.

It may be a blessing in disguise.  Your old distributor is probably well 
worn and may be in dire need of a rebuild anyway.

Brand new Lucas distributors are available for cheaper than the price of 
getting an old one completely rebuilt.  I think I got mine for under $100 
from British Pacific.  Its been a couple of years so who knows where the 
price is today but it is a nice feeling to have a distributor with no 
wear or grunge buildup inside. 

Besides, after the price of a Turner, a new distributor is cheap and a 
worn distributor could have kept the newly rebuilt engine from working 
properly.

Good luck getting your rebuild in & working well!!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:27:08 -0400
Subject: Diff guards

David R. Bobeck <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> wrote:

>Diff guards? Why bother...no oil in there anyway...

Ahhh...I guess that would explain why there was such a *small* puddle of 90
wt. under your truck in LRNA's stain-free parking lot! ;-)  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:27:09 -0400
Subject: Starters

pat wrote:

>Anyone ever see a "starter/generator"? Once the engine was started using the
>starter, a switch was flipped and the starter now became a generator. neat
>idea but perhaps only practical if you have a Rover Turbine ;-)

No, but how about an alternator/power steering pump?  For a while in the
late 1960's and early 1970's Rover was toying with the concept of power
steering.  They simply appended a pump on the back of an alternator, so one
spinning shaft could do double-duty.  Now if you could find one of these
jewels, you could have an alternator *and* a hydraulic winch....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:27:13 -0400
Subject: Distributor woes

"Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> wrote:

>So I am getting closer to firing up the turner.  Was securing the
>distribuutor in place and realized that is was not engaged.  Hmm.
>Realized that the distributor was not reaching far enough to engage.

You've got the distributor drive gear adapter, right?  That little steel
donut that sits on top of the drive gear?  When I rebuilt my engine, I
forgot about that little piece when I static timed/refitted the helical
drive gear.  At final assembly, timing was 180 out.  I had to refit the
drive gear and the little grub screw *in situ* and that is no picnic. Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Casey McMullen <st93wxta@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:19:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

How do you measure your jet?  I rebuilt my Rochester a few months back 
and it's run rough and rich ever since.  I got a rebuild kit from the 
local parts store, gave them the model number, could it have come with 
the wrong jet?

It also could be because my throttle linkage is worn and wobbly.  I can't 
set the idle very accurately.  The set screw is almost all the way in, 
and 1/8 of a turn makes a dramatic diference in running speed.  The 
throttle flops about though, and sometimes tapping the bottom of the acc. 
pedal slows it down when it's too fast (acc. linkage seems solid).

Tightening the manifold bolts (as per Jeff Aronson's Greek Peak series
Daily Driver seminar) helped a lot, smoothed it out and gained about 5 mph
of comfort.  Can I easily get a new throttle arm from Mr. Goodwrench? 
What else should I try?  

Help!  

Thanks,
Casey McMullen 
'72 sIII 88" 
casey@drexel.edu
http://httpsrc.ocs.drexel.edu/undergrad/st93wxta/

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 98 07:47:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

>How do you measure your jet?  
;
There is a number stamped in the top of the jet.  That number is the jet 
size.  I believe it is matched to drill sizes.

;>I rebuilt my Rochester a few months back 
;>and it's run rough and rich ever since.  I got a rebuild kit from the 
;>local parts store, gave them the model number, could it have come with 
;>the wrong jet?

Humm, I'm not sure what you got.  Main jets normally do not come with 
rebuild kits because one kit can handle a wide range off applications and 
a jet is a little more tailored to the engine.  They normally come with 
gaskets, a new accelerator pump and a new float valve.

If you developed the problem after you did the rebuild, you may have left 
some dirt in, set the float level wrong or just made a mistake on the 
rebuild.

:>It also could be because my throttle linkage is worn and wobbly.

May I suggest that you find a carburator rebuilding shop and ask them if 
it is rebuildable and if they have a good condition Rochestor that is the 
correct carb for a 1954 Chevy 236 six cylinder???  Carb shops are used to 
dealing with antiquers and hotrodders so are experienced at rebuilding 
old worn out carbs.

They should be able to fix the arm by reeming it out & installung 
bushiings or a larger diameter shaft.

Good luck!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:53:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

I just bought a reconditioned Rochester from British Pacific and ran
across
the following from Paul Donahue during my research into which carburetor
was
best for me.

Regards,
Keith Cutler
1960 SWB Truck Cab

On Tue, 11 Feb 97, David Bobeck wrote: where would one get such a carb
and
would it bolt straight on?

To get one of these fine carburetors, you must first make a pilgrimage
to
Rochester NY after which you will be called Haji and people will respect
you.  Or you could visit a junkyard.

The carburetors you seek were fitted onto 1950's GM sixes.  Model B
Rochesters can be easily identified as the venturi is completely
surrounded
by float bowl.  This family of carburetors was made in 3 basic sizes
with
venturis measuring 30.9mm, 33mm and 38.5mm.  Get the smaller ones.  Be
sure
to get one with provisions for a manual choke.  Get the ones with sleeve
style air inlet.

During the last 20 years I have used Rochesters and original Solexes on
my
Dormobile.  My impression is that the greater flow of the Rochester
gives
better performance on the highway, especially at our altitude in
Colorado
(starting at 5,000' and including 13,000' passes).  With it's float bowl
surrounding the venturi the Rochester also operates well at angles.

On 30 Dec 1996, Jim Allen reported the results of his flow bench test of
several common LR four cylinder carburetors:

    "Listing the carbs according to airflow and size, here's how they
    stacked up on the flow bench.  Flow rates are in cubic feet per
    minute at 1.5 inches of mercury.

        Rochester Model BV 1bbl   - 30.9mm venturi - 167cfm
        Weber 34ICH 1-bbl         - 29mm venturi   - 138cfm
        Zenith 36IV 1-bbl         - 27mm venturi   - 127cfm
        Solex 1bbl                - 28mm venturi   - 115cfm
        Weber 32/34DMTL 2bbl      - 26/27mm        - 194cfm
        Weber 32/36DGV 2bbl       - 27/27mm        - 191cfm
        Weber 38DGAS 2bbl         - 36/36mm        - 424cfm

    The big Rochester, with it's oil drum sized venturi, was the winner
    overall (though a slight loss at the low end was noted)."

The Rochester may or may not be a bolt-on fit.  The Zenith adaptor may
fit
(I have not seen one) or you could make one.  Otherwise you may need to
enlarge the bolt holes in the carburetor base flange.  As the base is an
iron casting this should be removed and done on a drill press or a
mill.  Or
you can check with your tool supplier for hole mover.  Fuel, vacuum and
throttle linkage should be easy to connect.

Happy Converting,
Paul Donohue
1965 Rochester fueled 109

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From: David Scheidt <david@cs.earlham.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:02:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Distributor woes

On Thu, 20 Aug 1998, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

> "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> wrote:
> >So I am getting closer to firing up the turner.  Was securing the
> >distribuutor in place and realized that is was not engaged.  Hmm.
> >Realized that the distributor was not reaching far enough to engage.
> You've got the distributor drive gear adapter, right?  That little steel
> donut that sits on top of the drive gear?  When I rebuilt my engine, I

Early engines haven't got this bit, do he might not have it to forget ot
install it.  

David Scheidt

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From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:14:41 -0400
Subject: RE: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

Thx all who replied... I hope you're on my side not just 'cause I am a
LR owner, and he's a F*rd owner now :)   ...

anyway, as far as fraud, misrepresentation etc etc. that Manuel brought
up:
1. I told him nothing about it - just gave him the key and let him
inspect it for 4 days before I got the check.
2. he's a mechanic himself, both marine and auto.
3. his "after the fact" complaint was about the charging system, and
I stopped by and offered him $100 back to buy 2 (not 1) rebuilt
alternators.   FWIW I never had any charging problems w. it
(the 109 is another story.. but not the Frod).

So I am sticking to my guns, even tho' I can't sleep at night when
I know there are people out there who don't like me :)

thx again
Jan

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:09:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Diff guards 

Sandy Grice wrote:

> Ahhh...I guess that would explain why there was such a *small* puddle of 90
> wt. under your truck in LRNA's stain-free parking lot! ;-)  Cheers

	Well it was a stain-free parking lot.  The all of the Series Rovers
did a a good job of deflowering that parking lot, eh?  :-)

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

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From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:24:09 -0400
Subject: 1, 2 winch...

>>In all seriousness it's a rotten situation and you do have my sympathy, for
>>whatever it's worth.

> Hey atleast you got your damn winch....  ;)

And a splendid winch it is!

Did you have your girlfriend help you lift it onto the pallet? ;-) ;-)

Chris

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:34:44 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Distributor bummer

In a message dated 8/20/98 10:12:43 AM, TeriAnn wrote:

<<Besides, after the price of a Turner, a new distributor is cheap and a 
worn distributor could have kept the newly rebuilt engine from working 
properly.>>

Yeah, a worn ditributor, or even the #1 plug lead not being on tight, can
prevent a new Turner from developing that "extra power"...  just ask Jeff "30%
More" Berg...

--pat.

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:33:03 -0500
Subject: RE: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

So I am sticking to my guns, even tho' I can't sleep at night when
I know there are people out there who don't like me :)
thx again
Jan

Dont let this guy scare you. Stand on your position, it seems right.
You are not a $100 bill to liked by everyone, that shouldn't bother you
either!
:-)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:51:49 -0400
Subject: Starters/power steering...

Actually, I have a generator/power steering pump sitting on my bench that 
came out of an old (very shabby) Rover Saloon. Same 12V genny as the one 
in the 109 save for the tang-driven PSP bolted to the back. I have 
thought of using it for my winch, but it appears to me that the pump 
volume is so miniscule that winching with it would be a time consuming 
affair.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:45:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Diff guards and oil spots

In a message dated 8/20/98 12:10:43 PM, Sandy & Ben wrote:

<<> Ahhh...I guess that would explain why there was such a *small* puddle of
90
> wt. under your truck in LRNA's stain-free parking lot! ;-)  Cheers

	Well it was a stain-free parking lot.  The all of the Series Rovers
did a a good job of deflowering that parking lot, eh?  :-)>>

Same for Greek Peak's driveway. They can almost paint lines between the spaces
just by going on where the drips are...  any truth to the rumor the EPA will
have a booth at GP2?  ;-)   (Or maybe *Exxon* can turn up as a sponsor, just
to make the Series rovers look *clean* underneath...)

--pat

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:06:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Starters 

>  Now if you could find one of these jewels, you could have an alternator 
>*and* a hydraulic winch....  Cheers

Bill Adams has one of these. thought it was a genny though and not an 
alternator...oh well, I tihkn he's gonig to use it to run his Ramsey...
Right Bill?
Bill?

later
daveb

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:21:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Southdown USA

rovah@agate.net wrote:

> made in the UK.  Jim Pappas is heading up the effort here in the US, but I
> don't know his phone #.
> regards, John
> Ahah!! I see my memory has not failed me I knew Metro West was in the 
equation there somewhere...Call Jim at land Rover Metro West

natick, Ma.
Rgds
Steve Bradke   68 series lla
               96 Discovery

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:54:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Distributor woes

Whoooooops!

Drive adaptor gear was still in my old block.  All is good now.  Is
there a good way to get a ballpark timing done?  I put the engine about
6 degree before TDC and eyeball lined up the distributor so #1 is
firing.

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:23:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 1, 2 winch...

> Hey atleast you got your damn winch....  ;)
>And a splendid winch it is!
>Did you have your girlfriend help you lift it onto the pallet? ;-) ;-)
I used the brute force that was available...nice big Clark forklift.  Glad
that everything worked out for you.  It's a Warn 8274 that will be living
on the front of my Dormie.  Which is one of the few vehilces where I think
you may actually use all of the gunt that the winch has.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:46:02 -0700
Subject: Tach and odd clunk

    For the first time I actually have a problem with my rover (I've had
it for less than two weeks).  I thought it would be time to ask
questions about the oddities of rovers rather than how to 'trick' them
out.
    Two days ago I started to notice a chunk in my rover.  It happens
almost exclusively when rounding a right turn, especially tight ones.
It isn't really loud but you can also feel a little jolt to the whole
vehicle when it happens.  I believe it is coming from the rear of the
truck.  My initial thought was the crown in the differential, but why
wouldn't it happen both directions?  I know very little mechanically,
but I AM mechanically inclined so I should pick it up quickly.  I was
going to pull off the diff. cover just to take a look.  Has anyone
recently had a similar problem that might lead me to the likely culprit?

    Another thing that was odd about yesterday was the tach.  In the
morning when I started the vehicle up it had no reading.  I didn't read
anything for a half mile or so.  Then it just 'kicked in'.  Then today
it didn't work this morning again.  Only this time it never did come
on.  I started the truck up to come home for lunch and it was fine.  Is
there a ghost in my rover or just a loose connection somewhere?
    I am beginning to understand the maintenance schedule for these
things... every day.

Regards,
Kirk

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 15:11:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Tach and odd clunk

In a message dated 8/20/98 3:03:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
khillman@rttinc.com writes:

<<  Two days ago I started to notice a chunk in my rover.  It happens
 almost exclusively when rounding a right turn, especially tight ones >>

Think about U joints, both front and rear.  Think about wheels (lug nuts
tight? Bearings ok?) Think about swivel balls and ball joints.

1.  Block the wheels and shift transfer box into neutral and gear box out of
gear.   Check the U joints and the slip joints for excessive play.  If
negative...

2.  Check the lug nuts, then jack up the rear wheels and check for looseness
in the bearings (wheels should have barely perceptible "wobble")  If
negative...

3.  Jack up the front and check for bearing looseness, swivel ball wear and
worn out tie rod ends.

I strongly doubt the diffs are the problem.
Good luck

Nate

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From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:24:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tach and odd clunk

     Two days ago I started to notice a chunk in my rover.  It happens
 almost exclusively when rounding a right turn, especially tight ones.
 It isn't really loud but you can also feel a little jolt to the whole
 vehicle when it happens.  I believe it is coming from the rear of the
 truck.  My initial thought was the crown in the differential, but why
 wouldn't it happen both directions?  I know very little mechanically,
 but I AM mechanically inclined so I should pick it up quickly.  I was
 going to pull off the diff. cover just to take a look.  Has anyone
 recently had a similar problem that might lead me to the likely culprit?
 
Kirk,

   Nate suggested u-joints, and lugs. However, since it only occurs when
in a right turn, I can almost guarantee that it's one or more spring bushings
that has gone teets up on you. The rubber rots out, and then the two metal
sleeves rub against each other, and also allow a limited amount of lateral
movement as the spring slides over and hits each shackle side plate. This
is the clunk/jolt you are feeling. These are relatively cheap to buy but a
real pain to change out. Had to do all eight of em on my first Ser truck. Not
fun. For some reason, the frame bushings seem to last longer, not as much 
flexing
going on compared to the bushing at the spring eye. Anyway, check em all,
if one bush is gone, others are not far behind. Let us know.

Mike
101FC

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 15:38:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Tach and odd clunk

In a message dated 8/20/98 3:35:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mfredett@ichips.intel.com writes:

<< Nate suggested u-joints, and lugs. However, since it only occurs when
 in a right turn, I can almost guarantee that it's one or more spring bushings
 that has gone teets up on you. >>

Kirk,

I didn't read your note closely enough.  I agree with Mike.  All that stuff I
wrote:  check that AFTER the spring bushings.  I think he's right on.

Nate

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:18:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Tach and odd clunk

Tach? wow, pretty spiffy. I bet that it's a stick-on from a previous 
owner, installed with all yellow wires that lead nowhere, that is 
assuming you are a Series owner. Leave it until the next rally where 
you'll have twenty "experts" show up the second you raise the bonnet. The 
clunk is likely a spring bushing, or rather, the lack of a spring 
bushing. If you are a Defender owner, then the tach is probably toast and 
will cost you at least $700 at the dealer, where upon final payment of 
the bill will fail again. The clunk is normal for these trucks, as it is 
added as the last step of assembly at the factory. When it goes clunk and 
stops moving, then worry.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:27:44 -0400
Subject: Distribotor bummer

Charles,
 there sare two types of quill shaft between the distributor and the
camshaft / oil pump gear, You must have the short version. The mounting
casting is the same for both types, as is the length of the distributor.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:43:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Starters

he alternator Powersteering pump is also found on some J**ps.  Don't kbnow
about the reliability though.  I am not a fan of one gone all gone.  I was
thinking of losing both back in the woods simultaneously, bad bearing or the
like, could be hard to get pieces....

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:47:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

Casey,
Sounds like you Rochester has a problem called vacuum leaks at the throttle
boddy shaft interface.  Flopping would be the key diagnostic phrase.  vacuum
leaks especially here make your carburetor statistically unreliable at the job
of metering the fuel into the fuel air mix.  try some oil at the shaft entry
to the carb while running.  if the idle changes  while the oil is there,
theres your leak.  similar procedure for other vacuum leaks.  Good hunting.

Zack Arbios

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From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 20 Aug 1998 16:36:00 -0400
Subject: steering wheel removal

Alan Richer writes:

>Or (for the less-technical-supply-enabled), how about just running a bit of
>penetrating oil into the spline from above and letting it sit? Sometimes a
>good soak will break them loose.

Tried Irish whisky?  Has about the same effect as penetrating oil.  Though,
unlike the nice scent penetrating oils have, Irish smells more brutal.  Kinda 
like 
something in the BGB's sump.

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:56:43 -0500
Subject: Re: GP: Comments (absolutely the last) 

>>Remember several weeks ago, the posting which called the Land Rover 
>>community tightwads ...pretty insulting don't you think

As a tightwad, I find THAT insulting :)

later
daveb
the woods are lovley, dark and CHeep...

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:54:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Tach and odd clunk 

>..you can also feel a little jolt to the whole vehicle when it 
>happens. 

Kirk, I would have to argue against everybody here and say that there 
is probably a chipped or missing tooth off of one of the side gears in 
you differential. The only theory offered so far that holds any water 
water at all is the spring bushing theory. The fact that it sends a 
jolt through the truck makes me wonder though. It obviously is not a 
u-joint since it would then happen all the time. However do check them 
a they are easy to inspect. Grab both halves of the joint and twist in 
opposite directions. If they move at all the join is bad and should be 
replaced. Same with the slip joint in the middle of the driveshaft.

check the bushings  before you remove the diff...

also you can jack up both rear wheels and see what happends when you 
try to turn them. Have a helper hold one, try it with the hand brake 
on, etc, you will eventually feleit if there si a tooth missing.

BTDT, bought the greasy LRNA 50th t-shirt...

later
daveb

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 17:22 -0500
Subject: questions about cleaning the engine and drying it with WD-40

Okay... My engine is horribly nasty... nasty layers of coagulated oil
over everything... I'd like to clean this... at least try... some people
have talked about steam cleaning... I'm in NYC, and don't know if there's
a place to steam clean anywhere around... I'll drive anywhere to do it,
really... anything to get me out of the city.... Another option is engine
degreaser and water...

This brings the question of that magic fluid WD-40 and getting a wet
engine running again... I love for someone to tell me a little about
how to do this...

 -Scott  

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 16:33:37 -0500
Subject: 60 AMP DELCO AMP, three prongs?

In using a 60 AMP Delco amp that has three spades for connections,

+
IND

The instructions for wiring have one of the + spades running the wire
that use to connect to the D spade on the VR.  Now that wire is
connected to both the A and A1 wires (to amp and ign)

The line from the IND spade is connected to the Wire coming from the
indicator light.

So Do I do nothing with the other + spade?

So how does it work?  Is the thick wire going to and from the AMP a two
way line that can be recieving electrons and giving them dependent of
the status of the system?

I just want to understand.

cwolfe

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 15:49:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Tach and odd clunk

>I started the truck up to come home for lunch and it was fine.  Is
>there a ghost in my rover or just a loose connection somewhere?

In any case, It is a ghost: either the PO ghost claiming that everything is
fine, behind the loud noises of the engine, or Sir Lucas ghost just waiting
for you to fix it so he can mess with it again.
:-]

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 19:11:35 EDT
Subject: Re: FOR SALE (com. content)

In a message dated 20/08/98 14:56:24 BST, you write:

 >1967 RHD 88  Galv. Frame, Rebuilt engine w/ unleaded head & weber 2bbl.
 >*Fairy Overdrive* Tailgate/liftgate, new wires, new springs.. Needs paint
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
 >Tranny is quiet and does not jump out of gear.  $7,500 obo
 >303-485-0434
  >>
gotta put gas in the Rangie, Russ???

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "ALLAN SMITH" <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 20:19:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Tach 

. If you are a Defender owner, then the tach is probably toast and
>will cost you at least $700 at the dealer, where upon final payment of
>the bill will fail again.

While some of the prices I've seen from LRNA dealers could mean this wasn't
just  humour, I reaaly hope for your sakes that it was. I put a very nice
70GBP 2 inch dia tach in my  work-oriented D90 300 Tdi. I use it more than
the speedo, and particularly when I want to know how the turbo is going to
respond to the right foot.

Allan
St. Lucia

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 20:39:34 -0400
Subject: Re: steering wheel removal

I originally wrote:

>Or (for the less-technical-supply-enabled), how about just running a bit
of
>penetrating oil into the spline from above and letting it sit? Sometimes a
>good soak will break them loose.

Then Dixon went for the Canadian cheap shot with:

Tried Irish whisky?  Has about the same effect as penetrating oil.  Though,
unlike the nice scent penetrating oils have, Irish smells more brutal.
Kinda like
something in the BGB's sump.

Careful, Dix - that might be Jimmy Hoffa in the BGB's sump. That engine
dates to about the right time...

Actually, an alcohol-based penetrant (castor oil and alcohol mixed, or the
like) might work better - but don't waste good Irish whisky. First off, it
contains too much flavoring, and secondly it's too damned expensive.

Stick with the penetrating oil or something of the like - it's easier.

     aj"Irish beats the Scotch swill you drink, Kenner!"r

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:03:09 EDT
Subject: Fuel Gauge/Ammeter

My 66 s2a has the circular cluster beside the speedo which is supposed to
contain an amp-meter, a fuel gauge and high beam indicator. The fuel gauge is
missing, the ammeter is toast (looks as if it's been on fire) and only the
high beam indicator works. Bill at Bulldog says they can't get the original
fuel gauges but they do have some military-type units which will fit the hole
and which contain an oil temp gauge, fuel gauge and ammeter. Anyone know
anything about these? Are they 24 volt? Bill's not sure. Wonder if the sender
will work with them. Any sage advice will be appreciated.

Ed Bailey
66 S2A 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 19:48:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE (com. content)

>In a message dated 20/08/98 14:56:24 BST, you write:
> >1967 RHD 88  Galv. Frame, Rebuilt engine w/ unleaded head & weber 2bbl.
> >*Fairy Overdrive* Tailgate/liftgate, new wires, new springs.. Needs paint
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
> >Tranny is quiet and does not jump out of gear.  $7,500 obo
> >303-485-0434

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> >303-485-0434
>gotta put gas in the Rangie, Russ???
That and I need a spot to park the Dormobile....

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: "Shaun Fisher" <FisherS@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:30:49 +0200
Subject: Trip log software

Hi all

I am looking for a good trip log program.  Preferably shareware and to be run 
on the DOS or Win 95 platform. If any one Knows where I can find  this 
software, 
I would be greatful

Thanx

Shaun Fisher
SERIES IIA (still under repair)

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From: "LEPRINCE Didier" <leprince@outremer.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 05:04:37 -0400
Subject: Centre PTO Rotational Speed

Didier LEPRINCE
   Morne Poirier
97220  MARTINIQUE
email :leprince@outremer.com

Hello

I own a 68 SERIE II A, and I would like to know at what speed the Centre
PTO at the rear side of the transfer case rotates in fourth gear for
example when the engine runs at 2000 revolutions/min, and if possible in
what direction : clockwise seen from behind ?.

(It is because I would like to put an stronger alternator on a big pulley
for my winch.)

Thank you everybody.

D Leprince

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From: Ketil Oftedahl <ketil.oftedahl@datapoint.no>
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:50:43 +0200
Subject: Re: Centre PTO Rotational Speed

LEPRINCE Didier wrote:

> I own a 68 SERIE II A, and I would like to know at what speed the Centre
> PTO at the rear side of the transfer case rotates in fourth gear for
> example when the engine runs at 2000 revolutions/min, and if possible in
> what direction : clockwise seen from behind ?.

The centre PTO is connected to the gearbox output shaft. In fourth gear
the RPM of the PTO should be equal to the engine RPM.  Also, it rotates
the same way as the engine ( except when in reverse gear ;-) ).

Ketil

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