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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:36:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Solex Adj.

Hi Everybody -
	I followed the adjustment procedures in the blue book for adjusting
my Solex.  After a few months I pulled the plugs to find evidence of a rich
mixture.  How do I make the mixture less rich?  Is it the 'needle screw' I
turn - which way?	Thanks - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:08:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Southdown, USA

In a message dated 19/08/98 00:53:24 BST, you write:

<< Does anyone know how to contact Southdown, (USA) ? I believe they are
 somewhere in MA...
 
  >>

Hi Pat,
Southdown USA never seemed to get off the ground. I know Dave Wilkinson (UK
owner) is quite miffed about it all.
Try him on Phone: (UK) 01363 83819 or fax: (UK) 01363 83472

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:20:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Southdown, USA

Could be wrong about this but I seem to remember LR Metro West in
Natick, Ma having something to do with Southdown Products.
Might be worth a check, let the list know regarding this 
Rgds
Steve Bradke 68 series lla
             96 Discovery

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:27:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel storage and capacity in 88's

I too have seen an 88 with a fuel tank installed under the rear tub in front
of the rear crossmember.  The filler tube came up through the rear load bed
beside the stay for the rear door.

Paul in Victoria.

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From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:29:58 -0500
Subject: Removing the early style Series llA steering wheel

Mine is jammed on very hard.  However, I need to get it off because my horn
has ceased to function and I know the problem lies in the wire connection to
the steering wheel.

No amount of pulling will get  the wheel to move.  Yes' this is after I
remove the bolt at the base of the wheel.

Thanks for any help.

David Hope
64 llA

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:45:04 -0700
Subject: RE: Removing the early style Series llA steering wheel

The wheel is just sitting on a splined shaft.  Try some penetrating oil and
a little persuasion.  Maybe rent / borrow some sort of shaft puller?

Paul in Victoria.

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:46:46 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Southdown, USA 

  

>Hi Pat,
>Southdown USA never seemed to get off the ground. I know Dave Wilkinson (UK 
>owner) is quite miffed about it all.

The reason for this is that the name is very wimpy sounding for the American 
market. The owners of LRNA products (especially yellow Defenders) are much more 
excited by names that appeal to their yuppy, pseudo-rugged-individualist-
environmentally-sensitive-until-we-get-behind-the wheel sensibilities, like 
"Safari Gard" and "Desert Rat." "Southdown" sounds like a company that makes 
feather pillows and comforters. Perhaps a more macho name like "Gonzo Gear" or 
"Honcho" would be better. Of course Series LR owners prefer to just keep 
breaking our trucks, which is why they don't make this stuff for us...
Diff guards? Why bother...no oil in there anyway...

My $.02
daveb

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:50:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Southdown, USA 

It's too bad that they didn't "get off the ground" here as they make a great
set of protection pieces of the undercarriage.

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:42:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Removing the early style Series llA steering wheel

Hmmmmm...

Did you try spreading the split joint down at the bottom a bit? Might be
that just being clamped for 40-odd years might be holding it.

The other thing to try might be a bit of dry ice on the steering colum
itself that's inside the wheel - differential contraction might break it
loose.

Or (for the less-technical-supply-enabled), how about just running a bit of
penetrating oil into the spline from above and letting it sit? Sometimes a
good soak will break them loose.

                    ajr

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From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:02:57 -0400
Subject: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

with all the talk here about the buy/sell deals, I want to ask the Q
about my current dispute.

I sold my Bronco to a guy, a local marine mechanic.   ( I replaced it w.
the 109 2 yrs ago, and now I am ford-free! -> LR content :).
This is how it went:  Fri (7/25 I think)  - I parked it w. a FS sign.
Sun he calls, wants to look at it- I offer to leave it at his boat yard
for the day on Mon.
Mon nite - he calls, we agee on a price, I am to pick up the check on
Tue.
Tue night - he's not there
Wd night - I work late.
Thu night - he gives me a check on his Co. acct for the sum, but dates
it next Mon(8/3) "not enough $$ to cover it 'til Monday, >>>I'll call if
there's a prob<<<" - key phrase..
Sun night he calls - "more probs w the car, let's talk Monday"
Mon. lunchtime  - he said "new problems w. the car , I now offer $500
less, don't deposit the check"
I was *this* close to just dismissing the whole deal and taking the car
back, but somehow this arrogance and disrespect for the deal got to me.
So I went and cashed the check, sent him the title by registered mail.
He fumes, gets a lawyer to write me a letter ".. conditional sale, he
called to cancel the deal, blah blah".
I am sticking to my guns : IMO the deal was made when we verbally agreed
on Mon.  I was nice enough to accept the postdated check for $ reasons,
not 'cause I gave him 3 more days to think about it...
The lawyer I use tells me that  legally the deal was done on Thu: the
offer and acceptance was when he gave me the check, end of story.
legal opinions?
thx
Jan

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:11:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

At 02:02 PM 8/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I am sticking to my guns : IMO the deal was made when we verbally agreed
>on Mon.  I was nice enough to accept the postdated check for $ reasons,
>not 'cause I gave him 3 more days to think about it...
>The lawyer I use tells me that  legally the deal was done on Thu: the
>offer and acceptance was when he gave me the check, end of story.
>legal opinions?

 Agreed!

 Jan Ben 1 ---  Scumbag 0

 By the way, postdated checks are good on the day tendered,
 regardless of the date.  Of course it is smart to wait until
 funds are in the bank, call and verify before depositing or
 cashing the check.

-MC

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:20:28 -0400
Subject: Half shafts

In my considerable experience in the UK, the short half shafts are the ones
that break the most ( 9 out of 10 times ) however the consensus on the list
seems to be that the long ones break. perhaps this is related to the fact
the over here in the US we drive on the wrong side of the roasd !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:35:47 -0400
Subject: Alternators

Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com> wrote:

>You can also have a self exciting alternator. Which at a specific rpm starts
>spitting out the electrons. Only one wire goes to the Alternator.

I've seen these "one wire" alternators advertised in JC Whitless and marine
supply catalogues.  Always wondered how they could work....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:31:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Southdown, USA/ thanks.

Thanks, all, for the info. I posted to the list not even realizing my
"subscribe" command hadn't gone through. aargh. all's sorted now. damn
electrons.

--pat

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Alternators

>You can also have a self exciting alternator. Which at a specific rpm   
starts
>spitting out the electrons. Only one wire goes to the Alternator.
> I've seen these "one wire" alternators advertised in JC Whitless and   
marine
> supply catalogues.  Always wondered how they could work....  Cheers

Hmm... What's the difference in a one wire and a two wire alternator?
I've got a Delco, and it's always only had the + wire... (well, when I   
first
got it, it was a + coathanger wrapped in electrical tape)

Should I hook up the ground? why would I need to... every other circuit
acts as the chassis as ground?

thanks,
Scott  

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:51:33 EDT
Subject: Re:  Alternators

In a message dated 8/19/98 2:28:16 PM, you wrote:

<<>You can also have a self exciting alternator. Which at a specific rpm
starts
>spitting out the electrons. Only one wire goes to the Alternator.
I've seen these "one wire" alternators advertised in JC Whitless and marine
supply catalogues.  Always wondered how they could work...>>

I didn't know RPM was a factor. (I thought it only took a little boredom and
some loneliness to self-excite) I always figured they used the "one wire" as a
two way street, in that it gave initial voltage to the alternator, and then
once it was charging, the current flowed the opposite way.

Anyone ever see a "starter/generator"? Once the engine was started using the
starter, a switch was flipped and the starter now became a generator. neat
idea but perhaps only practical if you have a Rover Turbine ;-)

--pat.

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From: Joel Baskin <joebas@symix.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:09:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Alternators

Hello,

That bastion of home projects, Popular Mechanics, had a blurb in the
February 98 issue about a starter/alternator/flywheel that monitors engine
and driving conditions. Even assists the engine for acceleration, saving
energy and increasing pickup. 

Joel Baskin
1966 SIIa 88"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:41:46 EDT
Subject: syting

Spotted off I-95 , in South Carolina:

A bright yellow 109/110 with the rear cargo area in canvas ala 130 style.
Didn't think it was a 130, my brief glance at it as I went by indicated the
body was one piece, ie: not a separate bed like in 130's and 110 Hicaps.  I'm
not really sure what it was, but it didn't look factory. It also didn't look
like the extended cab 110 pickups I've seen in Malaysia.

It was on a vehicle carrier with some non-descript sedans.

--pat.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:11:18 +0200
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

This seems like a classic case of having to decide whether you want to
be right, or whether you want to keep your shirt.

As they say here in Denmark - "You can't have flour in your mouth and
blow at the same time"

Caveat Rovor or something?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:52:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Alternators

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
> Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com> wrote:
> >You can also have a self exciting alternator. Which at a specific rpm starts
> >spitting out the electrons. Only one wire goes to the Alternator.
> I've seen these "one wire" alternators advertised in JC Whitless and marine
> supply catalogues.  Always wondered how they could work....  Cheers

	I figured out where they come from. First you let the bearing in the
generator die. Then you install a standard Delco alternator. Connect the
output terminal to the battery, the sense wire to the battery, and the
wire which is supposed to go to the battery gets connected to the
warning light. Next something inside the regulator fries, and you no
longer need the two wires going to the plug. A one wire alternator!. At
least that's what happened to mine. Yes it starts charging once a
certain rmp is reached, but then continues to charge below that speed

Jim Hall

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:46:02 -0700
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

I was once told by my bank manager that if a post dated check came thru he
could, to paraphrase ..lock up the account.. . Something about the federal
banking laws.

Tom

Michael Carradine wrote:

>  Agreed!
>  ...snip...
>  By the way, postdated checks are good on the day tendered,
>  regardless of the date.  Of course it is smart to wait until
>  funds are in the bank, call and verify before depositing or
>  cashing the check.

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:51:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Alternators

Mine works great. 80 amps and Coast Guard approved. Picked it up at a local
industrial starter, generator, alternator, whatever else electrical goes on a
boat, ship, or other piece of heavy equipment.

Tom

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:58:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Alternators

> ...snip...
> Anyone ever see a "starter/generator"? Once the engine was started using the
> starter, a switch was flipped and the starter now became a generator. neat
> idea but perhaps only practical if you have a Rover Turbine ;-)
> --pat.

...snip...  Suzuki used them on some of their motorcycles, but no switch to 
flip.
Volvo Penta  used one as well on some of their marine diesels, worked off an 
~16"
flywheel using a fanbelt. Compession release a must or you'd burn out the 
starter
real fast.

Tom

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:04:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Alternators

In a one wire set up the alternator self excites itself to creat the minor
voltage needed to get the alternator to put out the ~13.8 volts from the
voltage regulator.
In a two wire set up the minor voltage is supplied to the alternator.
Without this voltage the alternator won't "put out". Hope I've got that
right. It's been a while since I had my automotive classes. Anyone else.

Tom

Wilson, Scott wrote:

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From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:55:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Southdown, USA

There was a truck and table at the Greek Peaks from Southdown they didn't
look to organized but they were there. I believe they are located in
Massachusetts.
Chris "V"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:03:41 -0500
Subject: RE: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

>The lawyer I use tells me that  legally the deal was done on Thu: the
>offer and acceptance was when he gave me the check, end of story.
>legal opinions?
>thx
>Jan

>From what you say your lawyer said, and what we have been talking about the
subject, I can tell there is a difference between our two legal systems.
Ours, or maybe I should say mine, Roman-Germanic system aknowledges the
contract perfected since there is agreement on the goods and the price.
Traslation is not required for the contract to exist.
In your case, according to my knowledge, the deal was closed on monday. But
in your commonwealth system (as we call Brits and Yanks law), maybe the
moment is another one for the contract to be perfected.
Anyway, and I think this is a global concept, checks are not credit
instruments, they are payment methods. If he gave you a check on thursday,
you have already been paid, and as Michael said, postdated checks can be
cashed right away, because they are inconditional pay orders. You cant put
any condition on a check.
You never said, as I understand, you agreed on any conditional sell. But you
have to be responsible for what you sell. I don't know the exact term in
english, but what you sell can not have hidden defects, that can't be
predictible. And if you are aware of them and do not say so, that is fraud.
I think this is not the case (or I hope at least).
The guy has no right to argue anymore the price. He cant offer you 500 less,
because he already paid you. What he can do is negotiate some kind of
payment on your part for any repairs that had to be made IF he couldn't or
shouldn't have presumed them. That is a whole new story.
As I understand there were no conditions agreed on and if he said he would
call if he had problems I would have understood it as simple information he
wanted to pass over, not that you needed.
Stick to your position, if you feel you are correct.

Anyway, as someone keeps reminding us, "this is just my opinion, but I could
ne wrong", in your country that is, not in mine!!!!!
:-)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: BSharp4601@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:21:16 EDT
Subject: Rochesters (again)

Does anyone use a fuel pressure regulator with a Rochester?  If so, what
pressures work best?  I have the floats set at 1 9/32 to 1 3/4 but it seams as
though I'm getting too much fuel into the bowl (or would it be not enough?)
especially when it is hot (all the time in Tucson).

TIA,

Bob Sharp
Tucson, Az.
96 Discovery
60 Series II
63 Series IIa
72 Series III
(Yes, my driveway is considered a Class I oil spill by the E.P.A. ;-)

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:51:34 EDT
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

I'm not a lawyer,  (good for somebody, not my bank account.) but here goes
what I allegedly think.

You Got the Money, Nuff said.  He wants it back make him take it.  If he
didn't want to pay he didn't have to deal or write the check.  I don't know
what representation you might have made to him, if any.  I don't, as well,
know what Smog arrangements you made either. In CA you are responsible for the
Smog passing.  There is a lot more responsiblity than just selling the car, I
hope you might have reported the change in ownership to DMV?

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 20:00:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Alternators

One wire alternators work the same as the others.  Spin the front and the
lights get brighter.....
Jest Joshin...

Zack Arbios

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From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:43:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

BSharp4601@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone use a fuel pressure regulator with a Rochester?  If so, what
> pressures work best?  I have the floats set at 1 9/32 to 1 3/4 but it seams as
> though I'm getting too much fuel into the bowl (or would it be not enough?)
> especially when it is hot (all the time in Tucson).

I think I have the same problem and I'm just using the standard mechanical pump.
The problem only surfaces when going uphill.  Today I spoke to the manu who
rebuilt the carb and he thinks the jet I have in there is too large, thus 
causing
the flooding.  I am going to try and get smaller jets.

Frank

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From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:53:01 -0700
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:

> subject, I can tell there is a difference between our two legal systems.
> Ours, or maybe I should say mine, Roman-Germanic system aknowledges the
> contract perfected since there is agreement on the goods and the price.
> Traslation is not required for the contract to exist.
> In your case, according to my knowledge, the deal was closed on monday. But
> in your commonwealth system (as we call Brits and Yanks law), maybe the
> moment is another one for the contract to be perfected.

No .. once the offer is accepted the contract is formed.

Frank.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 03:03:21 +0200
Subject: Re: can I ask a Q about buy/sell contract..??

Something about "A gentleman's word is his bond" ?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:43:33 +0100
Subject: Brake Stuff, since everyone's asking.

Well, got out to my truck today... had no brakes... I won't get into 
the story again... either you remember or you don't. But the 
problem was just the adjuster cam "starting over" and now they
work better than ever... good solid pedal and it's not pulling one
way or another.

The only weird thing is that I was afraid that I would have air in
the line cause the brake fluid reservior was empty, but I filled
the reservior, some air bubbled out, and the pedal is still solid.
That's good. I'm not complaining...  just thought it was a bit odd.

So anyway... for everyone who was saying their brakes are
pulling one way or another, then you need to adjust your brakes
as per the manual (I believe one person said they had a stage
one... are those disks or drums?) and if you have drums then 
the adjuster cam can "restart" and it will feel like you have no
bakes whatsoever, and no matter how much you pump, nothing
happens. 

The only thig is that the manual says to let the brake pads touch
and then back off two notches. I belienve someone already said this,
but the best way to do it is to actually tighten them until they are just 
touching. You'll know when this happens cause you can spin the
wheel, and instead of slowly coming to a stop, they'll eventually
go from slowly spinning to dead stop. Have some common sense
here please... I think you know what I mean. But don't back off at
that point. they are now perfect.

-Scott
 1973 SIII 88"

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:55:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

Hi Frank,
  I am running a rochester Carb on both my 88 & my brothers 88.  We have
no pressure regulator & are running a 45 & 46 jet on a 7:1 & 8:1
respectively  I believe
that 46 or 47 jet  are about right.   You should install a tach to keep
a check on the RPM because you can over rev the engine with that carb
installed.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: Arthur Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:31:56 -0400
Subject: Rich Chala search

Greetings,

Anyone know the whereabouts of Richard Chala, formerly of Oregon?
Any leads appreciated.

Art
'72 S3 88
'69 TR6 PI
Boston, MA
USA

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:10:59
Subject: Re: Starter/generator called a Dynamotor, I believe.

	The old Volvo MD2 had a starter/generator.  Think it put out a whopping 
15
amps or something ridiculous like that.  I used mine for years without the
compression releases and never had a problem until it physically fell off
the engine.  The mounting bolts fractured.  From then on I hand cranked the
Volvo.  Then I used the compression releases.  Easier to start with a crank
than the rover.  It was a bit more acrobatic, however.  I had to have the
crank extended because of the furniture in the boat.  Get the old volvo
spinning as fast as I could with the compression releases up, drop the
crank, dive into the engine compartment and drop one compression release
hoping the engine would catch.  Drop the second release as soon as it was
running on one cylinder.  Usually caught the first time.  It was also
easier to start while sailing as the prop helped to turn the engine over.
	Not much rover content but the mention of what I think they called a
Dynamotor reminded me of my tales of the South Pacific.

Aloha Peter

>Volvo Penta  used one as well on some of their marine diesels, worked off
an ~16"
>flywheel using a fanbelt. Compession release a must or you'd burn out the
starter
>real fast.
>Tom

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:53:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Stuff, since everyone's asking.

Great, Scott,

You have pumped air down into the straw that is your brake line and pumped it
back up, which is why you don't have air left in your lines.  Brakes are
simple, which is why when you start to have brake problems you need to get
back to first principles.  Your successful foray into the world of hydraulic
principles should help you next time, guaranteed to be just a little bit more
difficult.  Remember brakes need conservative thoughts, I always ask myself
just what will happen if I let this substandard part go a little longer.

Good luck and lucky beaks

Zack Arbios

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:57:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

Rob, could you please measure the venturi inside your carb?  I've heard a lot
about which venturi is the best for the 2.25 liter Rovers, but I don't know
which size is the (preferred) small one.  You check, I'll check and maybe we
can find which size is floating around.  I've been told there are three sizes.
Any body who knows is welcome as well of course.

Zack Arbios

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:07:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: FOR SALE (com. content)

1967 RHD 88  Galv. Frame, Rebuilt engine w/ unleaded head & weber 2bbl.
*Fairy Overdrive* Tailgate/liftgate, new wires, new springs.. Needs paint
and some new seats. Has been my daily driver for over 3yrs.... very
dependable truck. $7,500 obo
1972 LHD 88 Tropical Top, full galv roof rack, warn hubs, new gastank, new
fuelpump, new clutch master, new rear crossmember. 16" wheels,  Frame is
solid but needs two outriggers installed(included)  Engine is smooth.
Tranny is quiet and does not jump out of gear.  $7,500 obo

303-485-0434

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:11:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

Has anyone used the carburettor from a Chevy Vega? They were 140 c.i. engines. I
picked one up but never mounted it as I recall. Just wondering if anyone else
tried the same thing.

Tom

Zaxcoinc@aol.com wrote:

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 98 23:02:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Rochesters (again)

>Rob, could you please measure the venturi inside your carb?  I've heard a lot
;>about which venturi is the best for the 2.25 liter Rovers, but I don't 
know
;>which size is the (preferred) small one.

The correct carb is the one that came on the 236 Chevy six cylinder.  The 
others are for the larger Chevy 6 cly engines.  Someone from a carb shop 
would be able to look the numbers up for you.

My carb is the correct one for a 1954 Chevy 236 Chevy.  Unfortunatly the 
little number tab has broken off. 

Here are my individual test results:

 I live at sea level.  a #48 jet is too lean of my car and causes high 
RPM hesitation.  A 50 or 51 main jet works fine.  A 56 jet runs rich and 
fouling of the spark plugs ocasionally happen.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:04:31 -0500
Subject: Distributor bummer

So I am getting closer to firing up the turner.  Was securing the
distribuutor in place and realized that is was not engaged.  Hmm.
Realized that the distributor was not reaching far enough to engage.  I
think I found another difference between a II and a IIA engine.  It
appears that the mounting block for the distributor is too thick.  Will
have to call RN in AM to confirm my suspicions.  Really bums me out.
Means I am at least a UPS roadtrip from VT to MN away from cranking her
over.

cwolfe

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:11:56 +0000
Subject: Re: Starter/generator called a Dynamotor, I believe.

>        The old Volvo MD2 had a starter/generator.  Think it put out a
>whopping 15
>amps or something ridiculous like that.    Not much rover content but the
>mention of what I think they called a
>Dynamotor reminded me of my tales of the South Pacific.

Called a Dynastart in the UK.My old man had one on a prewar Talbot.
He never had any trouble with it,or so he always maintains.
Its roughly the same method used to start a loco traction diesel,by
motoring the genny.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:34:12 +0100
Subject: FWH & Foxes

Hi Folks

That tyre time has come again.  On Tuesday, while driving from a freinds to
my job interview i swerved to miss a fox. I ended up in the ditch and found
a large hissing from the front. The deestone tyres i have, which i thought
were very strong, were shreded from a rock. I had also ripped off the
passenger side freewheeling hub. Bugger. Oh well, I have a spare... From
the last time!

I drove 2 miles to the nearest garage - as the previous day i had used my
spare on a slow puncture - and got a road-biased tyre.  Chances are i will
pop back to that garage to get either one the same or get 2 SAGs for the
front... and stick the other deestone as the spare... He managed to change
the wheel and get out that ugly dent in the rim in 20 minutes... which
meant i got to the interview with 10 minutes to spare (thank god!)

oh well. it happens.  Also, for reference, i have found out (i think) the
noise i thought from the engine is partly from the gearbox. so i think i
will do an oil change...

OK. Thats it for now.  Will speak again.

Cheers
Elwyn York
LR S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick" [47 FL 06]
ICQ: 17087824

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