1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:19:01 +1000 Subject: Bellhousing Plug Ben wrote: >bellhousing plug on my '65 2.25 88". .. >This is the plug that seals the oblong hole (about 2" by 3") on >the lower left-hand side of the bell housing. .. >I can't seem to find it in any of the usual catalogs. Does anyone > know of a source? I don't have a Series so I may be wrong. I found what appears to be it in the Australian company, Four Wheel Drives, catalogue. "Bell housing Plain grommet. Rubber grommet for gearbox bellhousing. Fits all models '50 to Series IIA on left side of gearbox bell housing" Price A$4.00 (US$2.55) or "Bell Housing Grommet. Gearbox bell housing grommet with hole for clutch rod. Suits Series I to Series IID inclusive. LWB and SWB" Price is A$5.50 (about US$3.50) or "Bell Housing Grommet. Gearbox bell housing clutch shaft grommet Suits Series II E to Series III. LWB and SWB" Price is A$5.00 (about US$3.15) Any any good? IF so contact them email at fwd@mail.fwd.com.au web site: www.fwd.com.au. Usual disclaimers. Ron Price is ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca> Date: 22 Jul 1998 09:19:00 -0400 Subject: military purchases Marin Faure writes >use-it-until-it-breaks-and-then-throw-it-away world, I wonder if an >armed service would really care one way or the other. If unibody >construction made the Defender more affordable, I suspect that would >take priority in the mind of today's military forces than how easy it >was to work on. Other's opinions may vary... You have not seen the Canadian military in action. Fixable is paramount since we will use these things until they either fall apart or last thirty plus years (which ever comes last) The other, much smaller consideration, in Canada is evaluating the vehicle. In the past, a piece of kit could get up to 100 points. 90 points were assigned to such militarily important considerations as: job creation, regional development, political considerations, Canadian content etc. 10 points could go to the ability of the equipment to accomplish the intended task. We won't discuss what a snowmobile asembler did to a German military 4x4 to make it meet Cdn spec and profit margins... ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:41:50 +0100 Subject: Re: Nicked again Ron writes:---------------- What am I doing wrong? I put a Mitsubishi L300 4wd wheel with Desert Dueler tyre that had lots of tread (about 1/4") out in front of my place, leaning against a tree. And noone took it. It was there for days. Eventually, I had to paint the word "FREE" on it before it went - and it still took another day. ----------------------------------- A while ago I damaged a tyre beyond repair, so after changing it I took it up to the tip one morning on my way to work. Although there was plenty of tread left on it, there was a lump missing out of the sidewall. When I came home for tea, the tyre was propped up by the back door of the house. That evening, I took it up to the coup again. On my return from work the next day, the bloody thing was back at the house. It turned out that two neighbours had been up to the coup as well, and had both brought back the tyre thinking it looked pretty good and would probably fit my Land Rover. The tyre then began a new life as a fender on a prawn trawler. I still see it occaisionally, although I never invite it back to the house. Tom Stevenson SNL Mussel Project University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel: 01475 530581 Fax: 01475 530601 Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:05:07 -0400
Subject: RE: military purchases
That's how the Canadian Military ended up with the Bombardier 4x4 !!!
That doesn't even come close to a Defender...
/ , | |
/\ \|/ /\ | Marc-Andre Leger |
|\\_;=._//| | Network Eng. |
\." "./ | WEFA inc. |
//^\ /^\\ | 800 Baldwin Tower |
.'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'. | Eddystone Pennsylvania |
/ , `'\.---./'` , \ | USA |
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/` ( '.'-.-'.' ) `\ | (610) 490-2763 |
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) ( | |
My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|
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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:31:42 -0400
Subject: Smoked Camels
Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> can you please supply the missing word as this statement
>> left me confused :-).
> " Eat " ??
No, I don't think you want to do that. When I was in Africa with the Peace
Corps (requisite LR content: had a diesel 88 to use on the job) I had smoked/
roasted camel many times. Definitely not for the feint of heart and/or
palate or those with store-bought teeth. It seemed that about the only
time meat was available was when some animal died of old age....
*----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
| |
| A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| Association of North American Rover Clubs |
| 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
|(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
*----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
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]From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:29:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Eats in the GP Area (Ithaca) Worst traffic (per capita)?! Where did you read that? After visiting relatives in central MA in my IIA, there's nothing nicer than returning to Ithaca and not needing to drive more than a mile or two to get all you need. You can find my house on Buffalo St. by looking for the largest series of oil stains - which will give'em something to protest! Cheers - Peter (BTW - I am often considered a 'food snob' - because I hate mass-market crap (see, I told you) - which is why I gave the list of some nicer 'mom and pop' places. But remind me again, wasn't Trevor looking for a place to go on his anniversary?) Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:03:51 +0200 Subject: Re: gearbox, how warm is normal? Peter Thoren wrote: > Dear fellow Land Rover owners, > I noticed yesterday that the floor and left side of the aluminium (inside > the truck) covering the gearbox was rather warm after 30 km of highway > speed (90 km/h). It was not extremely warm but it made me start worrying. > What is a normal temperature for the gearbox? The reason I am a little bit > worried is that I have a whining sound from the gearbox which increases > with revs and I suspect it mucht be a bushing. Could this be the cause of [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)] > peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se > ********************************************************** Hi Peter, I doubt that the heat you feel is coming off the gearbox at all. A far more likely source of heat is the exhaust pipe. The gearbox shouldn't generate any appreciable heat. Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:05:53 -0400 Subject: FOR SALE: HELLA Ralley 3000 Driving lights For Sale: Pair of HELLA Ralley 3000 driving lights. I'm looking to mount a little something different and need to get rid of these before I can get what I want. I am asking $135.00 for the set. They are in good condition. It's just the lights, no wiring harness. E-mail me directly Cheers, Christopher Dillard Database Administrator Phone: 864-987-8633 BONUSCARD Marketing Fax: 864-675-5456 Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.) E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com Greenville SC USA www.bi-lo.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joel Baskin <joebas@symix.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:29:14 -0400 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? A related question: In my rover, the dashboard near the steering column gets warm. How typical is this? And how warm is too warm? Thanks, Joel Baskin 1966 Series IIa ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: caloccia@senie.com Date: 22 Jul 1998 15:54:36 -0000 Subject: Land-Rover.Team.Net: shameless commerce division Hi all, If you're travelling to the ANARC Land Rover 50th Celebration at Greek Peak, you'll have the opportunity to get some STUFF with the LRO list plaque (designed & copyright by Soren Vels) at the Store there. If you want a pre-view of the designs for the t-shirts, mugs and mousepads, check out http://www2.land-rover.team.net/stuff/ Prices will be reasonable, but I haven't got numbers for the mousepads and mugs yet, when I've got all the figures I'll add them to the page. Cheers, -B ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 08:44:17 -0400 Subject: R/R Spring Update Thanks to those of you who replied to my question about removing the bolts at the front of the rear spring pack. I decided not to use the torch since I have a leak in my gas tank and that area is sort of, well...flammable. Two days of soaking with penetrating oil and it still wouldn't budge. So last night I broke down and spent some time on my back with a hacksaw. Cutting through the bolts was actually far less painful than I expected, requiring only about a half-hour per side and very little swearing. As I stated before, we are talking about the bolts at the FRONT of the rear spring pack. These are not threaded into the frame as the shackle bolts in the rear are threaded into the shackles. I gather that they ARE threaded on a 109", hence some of the "why don't you just unscrew it you moron" replies I received. Thanks again, Ben ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:05:14 +0200 Subject: Re: gearbox, how warm is normal? Joel Baskin wrote: ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 12:33:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: gearbox, how warm is normal? Paul You say the gearbox shouldn't generate any appreciable heat. But how long have you driven it before you checked? The couple times I've felt mine it was burning hot, hot enough to fry a couple dozen eggs! (I use my IIA for more highway use than off-road, but....) My diffs get warm, but you can still touch them. I once checked my OD oil level after about an hour on the highway - I had to lift the bolt/dipstick out with a pliers! (I was real careful not to get that oil on my hands!) Should I be concerned? Cheers - Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 09:48:27 -0700 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium clean The gearbox shouldn't generate much of it's own heat, but it is bolted directly to the engine, which does generate a lot of heat. After a long drive, the gearbox acts like a big heat sink for the engine and can reach pretty much the same temperature. After driving my SII to work for about a week now, I've noticed that the drivers side footwell gets plenty toasty due to it's proximity to the exhaust manifold and down pipe. I think that it's time to invest in one of those heat shields... Now that I have all the parts for my wiper motors (Thanks Dan!), it's time to start cleaning them up. Does anyone recommend a particular cleaner for the aluminium motor housings? Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 Victoria, BC Canada http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 11:27:49 -0400 Subject: RR tires, RR prices, Ithaca food. tires: just put on 215/85s on the wifie's '88 RR. The cheapest PepBoys tires (made by Cooper/Gen'l) at $70 ea. Runs great on the road, a little noisier tread. Haven't tried'em offroad. BTW Sam's club and Costco don't carry the good tires in 16" sizes anymore. Bummer. RR prices: FWIW, I paid $4300 for the '88 RR and drove it home. Put new pads and tires, still needs a few hours of work, but it's a good daily ride/babymobile. Luckily AC is Ice-cold, too. I often see them in the $7k range in local papers. Ithaca food: Didn't see Kaskan's post, but I'd say places downtown are more of what you'd expect from a restaurant than up on the hill in collegetown. Except there are a couple of small places (Indian I think and a pizza place, a Greek diner) on Eddy st. I heard of a good sushi place on rt.13 near Triphammer (or is it Pyramid?) mall. For true Ithaca granola experience check out Moosewood downtown (Dewitt mall). Judging from Peter's looks, he probably suggested it.. :) Oh yeah - Statler hotel on campus (CU, I know nothing of IC or the South hill) is run by the hotel school, and students "practice" cooking and serving food to the guests. They won't kill you, but they come up w. some funky dishes. Dunno if it's open in summertime. BTW Ithaca is 25-30 mins away from Greek Peak (45 in a Series), I've never had anything in Ithaca worth the drive (not food anyway :) Rgds. Jan. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:00:27 +0100 Subject: RE: Landrover Screensaverss At 12:01 22/07/98 +0200, you wrote: >On Tue, 21 Jul 1998, Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: >> 20 minutes??? It can't be. >> I was worried because it took this thing 2:30 min to download it. >2:30? Hm. Took me 45 seconds here from Norway. This is rapidly turning >into a bandwidth d***size war. On downloads i average between 1.0k and 15k per second. Thats normal really! EY S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick" Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:07:07 -0600 Subject: Re: Bellhousing Plug (Ben Nibali) and Paint Colors (Steve Parker) TerriAnn, My Rover's serial number begins with 1440 which indicates a 1960 Series II LHD Export model. Steering arms connect on the bottom of the swivel-ball housings; black-knob, screw-style air vents; welded door-stop housings; 2.25 motor (the 2.0 was only used on 1958 88" Series II models); horn button is on a stalk attached to the steering column; turn signal switch on the dash. Sounds and looks like a 1960 Series II to me. Do you concur? Also, regarding the wading plug in the bellhousing: do you put it in only when crossing water? I've read that it should be left out under normal conditions to provide an escape route for any oil that leaks into the bellhousing so as to not damage the clutch. Seems like a lot of oil to me! Thanks. Keith ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:58:41 +0200 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium Paul, Could you describe the heat shield you are talking about? If this was an earlier thread I am sorry if I missed it. Peter -------------------------------------- Peter Thoren 1975 109" SIII Diesel Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club Långmyrtorp 740 20 Vänge Sweden phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56 peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se -------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:21:35 -0700 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium Hi Peter, I don't have my parts books with me right now but the heat shield that I am talking about was a factory part that bolts on to the manifold and extends down between the manifold and footwell area. I haven't seen one in a long time, but I remember that they kind of looked like they were made out of asbestos..!! Any body know for sure? Anyway they were a standard LR part so they should be obtainable from any parts supplier...unless they've been declared hazardous material and banned... Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "bill.di" <bill.di@mci2000.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:14:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Sand Ladders
If anyone is interested in something that might work as a "sand ladder" or
flotation mat for keeping your rover moving over soft ground, then check out
http://www.harvestsite.com/calumet/psp.htm
The company, Calumet, is located in Oklahoma. I spoke with one of Calumet's
rep's, and they will ship individual planks of the pierced steel planking for
$24.95 each plus freight. Freight to Albuquerque is $33.54 for 10 foot plank.
Similarily,
freight for one bundle (30 planks) is $141. Am thinking one plank could be cut
in half or thirds, to come up with a couple of not-too-heavy and relatively
cheap flotation mats. Seems they might be good when there are not any trees
around for
winching.
Bill
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]From: RykRover@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:25:40 EDT Subject: Greek Peak Camping Mid-Atl/ROVERS group Was wondering who was going up Thursday/early Friday? Could someone in one of my groups save me a place for the pop-up trailer? TIA, Rick ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joel Baskin <joebas@symix.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:28:15 -0400 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Shields - Aluminum How about a removable heat shield for those cold winter drives! That would be worth the time to put it on and take it off. Joel ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Keith Addison <gruno@att.net.hk> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 04:35:38 +0800 (HKT) Subject: Iffy prop-shaft Hi all I checked out a 1978 Series III 109 diesel yesterday which my partner's planning to buy. It's been off the road for about a year and the licence has expired so I couldn't give it a road test, just forward and back a few metres in the guy's yard. But it's a runner and generally nice enough, quite clean, fairly well looked after, bit of rust but nothing severe, needs a new wheel cylinder or two, electrics okay, started immediately, sounds smooth enough, exhaust quite clean, engine compartment clean and neat, it steers, all the gears are there, clutch okay, everything works, very nice car. Only thing that bothered me was the front prop-shaft, which is a mess, wear on the splines and UJs, and I could rotate the whole thing 5-10 degrees by hand (the car didn't budge at all of course, I ain't no Superman). Easy enough to replace the shaft (in fact I've got a spare), but does the rotation mean there are problems with the front diff and/or the output drive (4wd) box? There's no rotational play at all on my lightweight. Very grateful for any advice - she's due to hand over the money tomorrow (Friday) and I'd like to give her a better idea of what she might be letting herself in for. TIA All best Keith Addison Lantau Island Hong Kong 1973 Series III Lightweight ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Joseph H. Huston Jr." <JHH@stevenslee.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:57:20 -0400 unsubscribe lro "Joseph H. Huston,Jr."<JHH@stevenslee.com subscribe lro digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Joseph H. Huston Jr." <JHH@stevenslee.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:58:03 -0400 subscribe lro digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Wed, 22 Jul 98 16:55:32 EST Subject: Re[2]: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Alumini > I haven't seen one in a long time, but I remember that they kind of >looked like they were made out of asbestos..!! Any body know for sure? >Anyway they were a standard LR part so they should be obtainable from .any parts supplier...unless they've been declared hazardous material >and banned... every time I put mine on the manifold would come loose again...taking it off solved the problem. sort of like the effects of carrying or not carrying spares... they are sheet metal, and I think they work, because now that i don't have it in, the feetsies are melting agzin. keeps the toes dry in the rainy season though. No toe fungi for me thank you. later ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Joseph H. Huston Jr." <JHH@stevenslee.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:45:17 -0400 unsubscribe lro "Joseph H. Huston Jr."<JHH@stevenslee.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JKwas61947@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:56:47 EDT Subject: Restraunts at Greek Peak? Who needs restraunts? Fill up your coolers with meat and beer and you'll be all set! And don't be tempted to chill your keg with dry ice. I froze one solid in college with the stuff... John Kwasnik Sherburne NY >. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:01:17 -0700 Subject: Re: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium clean Paul, you are an outdoorsy guy In the summer wear Tevas and use a water bottle to hose your feet every once in a while - it has prevented mine from bursting into flames. Cheers David Full-time father of a 3.5 year old 1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD" S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home wahooadv@earthlink.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Shaun Oriold <soriold@worldchat.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 19:29:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Land-Rovers? Do you think you could upload or send me a picture of it. I have seen a LR bike before but i looked all crazy with tubes going everywhere, I don't know if it is made by univega though. Shaun CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote: > Hey...Univega bicycles (for those who don't know) has two lines of mountain > bikes - at least, they did for a good 10 years: the Land Rover (of which, I > have one), and the Range Rover! > Don't know if Land Rover ever took them to court or not, but I know this - the > shop I got the bike from, wanted to buy it back from me a few years ago! (got > it in 1986) > Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gareth Lowe" <gareth@allbran.demon.co.uk> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:04:29 +0100 Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US >Marin Faure wrote: >"Defender is an extremely expensive vehicle to assemble. It's bolted >together, >which means someone has to do the bolting." >>BULL#&%T! >>Chevy trucks are bolted together! They don't cost a whole lot. I remember reading somewhere (LRO magazine I think) that Defenders take something like 3 times the man hours to assemble than the new Range Rover. Also while all other LR products are painted in the new super duper spray shop at Sollihull (one of the most modern in the world) Defenders still have to be sprayed by hand. Personally I like it that way, it means they are flexible and easy to work on. Land rover are looking into ways of reducing construction time and cost for the Defender replacement including monocoque chassis and composite materials. I'm sure they will get it right. G. ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LeeTrue@aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:12:55 EDT
Subject: Hi, folks. The Workmans are alive!
Hi, everyone. We have recently completed our Fairbanks, Alaska to Columbus,
Georgia pilgramage in "Baldwin", the '65 109" SW. We travelled about 6500
miles in June and July. (Sorry, Bill, not trying to out bid you) Everyone
made it fine sans the front tires that are bald. I won't bother you with the
particulars, now, but highlights included visiting Malcolm Engleman in
Edmonton, Creed Evans in Montana, Mountain Rovers and Terry Neal in Montana,
attending the Solihull Society Rally in Steamboat, picking up our 88" in
Charleston and cruising on in in tandem to Columbus. The Rover corral has
increased in the last week with the purchase of a 1990 Range Rover from
Atlanta this week.
Thanks to everyone who offered on-road assistance and technical help along
the way in there respective locals. The offers were and are greatly
appreciated, I'm just thankful that I didn't need to take anyone up on them.
Now, Bill Rice and I will start buging the SOLAROS club members now that we
are neighbors.
A few notes:
SOLAROS please send me a membership registration form, or give me a call
Solihull Society: I never paid for the festival feast at the Lodge, could
someone
call me collect and tell me where to send the grub money?
Finally, to everyone I met: It is very reassuring to be in the company of
fine folks like we have had the honor to meet on our trek. We plan to take
more pilgramages in the coming years, always in a Series Rover, and always not
just to get somewhere, but to see the land and the people.
Bren Workman
109 Dublinsky St.
Ft. Benning, GA 31905
(706) 689-2934
'72 88" "Tilly"
'65 109" SW "Baldwin" Resting from his Alaska to Georgia cross continetal
Land Rover Anniversary pilgramage: A wife, a daughter, two cats, a German
Shepard named "Rover", and me, as the idiot
'90 Range Rover (as yet unnamed)
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]From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 19:41:08 -0600 Subject: Difference in SII and SIIA Teri Ann Wrote: The difference is between a series II and a series IIA. There were a number of parts changes between the two years. Obvious things are: 2L vs 2-1/4L engine, How the steering arms bolt to the swivel hubs, screw vs lever scuttle vent openers, turn signal indicators on the steering column vs on the instrument panel, cylinder for door stop bolted to bulkhead vs welded to the bulkhead. If you have a series II rig and order parts for a '61 you will sometimes get the wrong parts. If you have a IIA & order parts for a 1960 you have the same problem. So I suggest that you go '60 if you have a series II rig or '61 if it is a IIA rig. THIS IS NOT NECESSARILY SO. One of the biggest differences in a SII to SIIA rig is the Engine itself. They are both 2.25 l but there are many differences. The water pump is different, and if your pump fails and you call for a replacement at any of the normal US suppliers (RN, AB, BP, BB), be sure to let them know that you have a SII 2.25 l. (BTDT). only savings is that the rebuild kit is the same Other engine differences. If you have the SII 2.25, you have a boat anchor waiting to happen. You cant get bearings for it any more. No rebuild buddy. (I've got two boat anchors and no boats) That quaint little turn signal switch. NLA no matter where/who you buy from. Original SII exhaust manifold. NLA, not even the front pipe is available if you want to use the original manifold These are just a few of our SII nightmares. Perhaps Dixon the SII expert could put out a more complete list. Thanks if you can. Mitch and the Red Dinosaur 1959 SII 88" SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sski3@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:54:12 EDT Subject: Range Rover Diffs HI all; A friend of mine just bought a 109 and wants to convert to range rover diffs.Now he needs to find a set, so that leads me to the question. Does anyone know of a set for sale and how much? He's willing to travel within reason. He is located in Henniker New Hampshire. I guess I'll take any messages for him since he doesn't have a computer. Thanks in advance Steve F. 69 SIIA 88 65 SIIA 88 project ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:25:16 -0600 Subject: Overdrive advice pls I'd like some thoughts about the utility of fitting an overdrive to my SII. I've just spent the past 4 weeks touring on vacation around the northern US states and eastern Canada (in a Subarau) and in the process I got a chance to talk to two friends with three series vehicles each and a "stockist" in Ontario about overdrives. One of the friends and the stockist had good condition overdrives sitting on their shelves and both more or less refused to sell them to me. The third friend had had an overdrive on his 63 but took it off and sold it. Essentially their arguments were that OD's were not needed with 16" wheels, that they stressed the gearbox, wouldn't last more than 40K miles, and were of limited value for the money. They also said that the most effective performance enhancement I could add to my machine was a Zenith carb and to forget the overdrive. This is all contrary to what I had read and believed. I don't know what to think now. Can I get some opinions please? Rick Grant 1959, SII "VORIZO" rgrant@cadvision.com www.cadvision.com/rgrant Cobra Media Communications. Calgary, Canada Aboriginal and International Relief Issues ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:09:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Hi, folks. The Workmans are alive! lro@playground.sun.com writes: >Now, Bill Rice and I will start buging the SOLAROS club members now that >we >are neighbors. > A few notes: > SOLAROS please send me a membership registration form, or give me a >call Excellent! We look forward to being bugged. <GRIN> There's a rally next month if you want to play on some serious trails. Otherwise, I look forward to more Series expertise, since I just got mine. <GRIN> Sean P. Murphy Project Director, LearnLink Emory University ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:23:23 -0400 Subject: Series IIA and a half? I recently came into possession of a new toy, but I can't exactly pin down what it is. At first, I made the ass-umption that it was a Series III because it sported a plastic grill and had fender headlights. However, it also has a metal dash with black instrument panels. The chassis number is in the 11,000 range and says that it's a IIa, but has a B at the end of the chassis number, so it must be a fairly late one. The plates are E-reg, but it wasn't registered until September of 1971. Other oddities include a factory Fairey overdrive. Is this just a bit of previous owner conglomeration? Sean P. Murphy Project Director, LearnLink Emory University ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:43:53 -0400 Subject: Re: Overdrive advice pls rgrant@cadvision.com writes: >Essentially their arguments were that OD's were not needed with 16" >wheels, >that they stressed the gearbox, wouldn't last more than 40K miles, and >were >of limited value for the money. They also said that the most effective >performance enhancement I could add to my machine was a Zenith carb and to >forget the overdrive. [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] >This is all contrary to what I had read and believed. I don't know what to >think now. I've been wondering a bit myself. I've got a Fairey overdrive in my new truck and it seems to be original. Whether or not it has been rebuilt is anyone's guess, but it works quite well but for the rattle of the shifter. It makes a nice difference on the highway and keeps those revs low. I've never understood how 16" wheels were going to make ANY difference in cruising speed. The diameter of the tire and the size of the wheel are two different critters. I have 16" wheels on my Series IIa and 15" wheels on my Defender. Of course, there's a wee bit of difference in diameter. At least in the US, it's easier to find a variety of sizes in a 15" tire than a 16". I can't see how an overdrive could overstress the transmission if you only use it when already in top gear. Driving around town with it engaged would certainly be silly, but who needs it to go 35mph? As for wheels, unless someone else can shed light on this phenomenon, I'd say what you need is the correct tire size, not the correct wheel size. Sean P. Murphy Project Director, LearnLink Emory University ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 13:09:42 +1000 Subject: don't nick that tyre (Tire) From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 06:27:49 +1000 Subject: Nicked again Sandy GRice wrote: >Yup. Some miscreant nicked the spare off my 88 two weeks ago. > had the bonnet up and laid the spare on the ground beside the > vehicle. What am I doing wrong? I put a Mitsubishi L300 4wd wheel with Desert Dueler tyre that had lots of tread (about 1/4") out in front of my place, leaning against a tree. And noone took it. It was there for days. Eventually, I had to paint the word "FREE" on it before it went - and it still took another day. Ron Maybe it was that great big rotweiller that you also had tied up to the tree (if you'd tied it to the tyre someone would probably have stollen the tree) :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:14:47 -0500 Subject: Don't be alarmed...things could be worse! To Keith and anyone else concerned: Back during the 1950's and 1960's, it was commonplace for import car dealers to title a a leftover vehicle in the year in which it was sold. Apparently, the logic was that since European cars outwardly changed so little between model years (compared to Detroit's offerings during the same period), no one would know the difference since, after all, they were new cars. I've personally encountered cars produced three years prior to being titled and have heard of some that were considerably older than what the title reflected! This is especially common for the slower-selling imports like early Japanese cars and many of the French makes. I would suspect that your Land-Rover was imported later in the year of 1960 and for whatever reason wasn't sold until 1961. Since it was a new car and seemingly little different than a true 1961 model, the dealer probably simply had the paperwork recorded as such. How could it be worse? Well, my Land-Rover is titled as a 1960. The catch is that it was titled as a "1960 Jeep!" And the red tape required by this state to correct it is (sadly) more trouble than it's worth. So to answer your question, call it a 1960. If we had to use what was listed on the title, I'd have to call mine by the J-word. Brian Willoughby 1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor" ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:40:54 -0700 Subject: Re: Series IIA and a half? Sean P. Murphy wrote: > I made the ass-umption that it was a Series III > because it sported a plastic grill and had fender headlights. The chassis > number is > in the 11,000 range and says that it's a IIa, but has a B at the end of > the chassis number, so it must be a fairly late one. The plates are > E-reg, but it wasn't registered until September of 1971. Offhand I'd say you've got a late IIA where the metal grill has been replace by a plastic one. cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 10:01:46 -0400 Subject: LAND-ROVER RANCH - A Greek Peak Ballad Honoring 50 Years of Landies LAND-ROVER RANCH by Neil Sheridan A Ballad Re-Written for the 50th Anniversary ANARC Celebration at Greek Peak, Cortland, NY (Sung to the tune of "Cadillac Ranch" with apologies to the Boss: Original lyrics copyright 1980 Bruce Springsteen; parody verses copyright 1998 Neil Sheridan. The "Cadillac Ranch" is a cemetery.) Well she sits, Buddy, justa leakin' in the sun There to greet a working man when his days are done I'm gonna pack some oil and I'm gonna pack a wrench For when they take me down to the Land-Rover Ranch Rippled wings, Baby, holey frame, no skirts Rides just like a little bit of Hell right here on earth Well, Buhddy when I die throw my body in the rack Drive me to the junkyard on my Series trahck Lan-deee Landie Rov uh Boxy and dented, muddy all over Open uuuuhp your engines, let 'em roar Tearin' up the highway like a big old dinosaur TeriAnn in THE Green Rover 1 OH 9 Zippy towin' through the woods (hain't mine) Even Alan Richer in that British Diplomat All gonna meet down at the Land-Rover Ranch Lan-deee Landie Rov uh Boxy and dented, muddy all over Open uuuuhp them engines, let 'em roar Tearing up the highway like a big old dinosaur Little Girlie in new coveralls so white Ridin' a Rangie through the Greek Peak night You're my last love Baby, you're my last chance Don't let 'em take me to the Land-Rover Ranch Lan-deee Landie Rov uh Boxy and dented, muddy all over Taylor pulled up to buy my truck today Came but left my old lump ta stay! ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:33:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: stuck springs, bow high rover ---Richard Clarke <Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> wrote: > spring pack. The nuts came right off, but it seems that each bolt has rusted itself quite solidly to the inside sleeve of its bushing. No amount of pounding will budge them because the bushing absorbs the impact. So my only idea is to cut the bolts themselves in two places: just inside I just changed my springs and faced a similar problem. The inner shackle plate is threaded. If you can remove that, heat up the bush with a blowtorch. The melting rubber gives off an odourous stench, but otherwise, it is easy to withdraw the bolt from then on. When removing the outer sleeve of the bush, use a hacksaw to carefully saw a groove in the casing, avoiding damaging the spring mounts. A small chisel can then finish the job quite nicely. Do not try to rush. It only results in frustration ;-) Now that I have replaced the rear springs with proper parts, Kerbau stands squarely and rides well. Gone are the bow high attitude and list to the passenger side :-) Cheers! == Lawrence Lee Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216 Singapore 570022 Tel: (65) 456 7815 Mobile: 9 684 3678 Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l "Kerbau" A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud. ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@MAGNET.MT> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:35:31 +0100 Subject: RE:Tooll Box Rust Is use underseal that can be painted by brush. this will keep out humidity, is a rust preventer and is thick and forms a good sound barrier. Thanks Geoffrey MIME:lro@playground.sun.com: >Dear List; >Anyone have any good ideas for keeping out rust from under the driver's >seat in my SIII 88. Drain holes, super paint, under coating, etc. >Looking for ideas. >Thanks, [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] >Thanks, >Herman ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:14:05 -0400
Subject: VERY LONG - Great Long Haul Driving / Riding Tips
With an eye toward the long trips that many of you will be making next week,
I wanted to share these long haul driving tips with you. These are
reproduced with permission from the "Iron Butt Association" which recognizes
documented long haul motorcycling feats such as the "50CC" which is riding a
bike coast to coast in 50 hours (no kidding, people do it). Michael
Kneebone, one of the association's leaders, sends his best wishes.
I've edited out a few tips that are strictly motorcycle related.
(c) 1998 Iron Butt Association, Chicago, Illinois
Please respect our intellectual property rights. Do not distribute any of
these documents,
or portions therein, without the written permission of the Iron Butt
Association.
-- 28 Long Distance Tips --
1. Know your limits
2. Forget high speeds
3. No caffine
4. Prepare your bike
5. Maintenance & Accessories
7. Pack wisely
8. Prepare yourself
9. Avoid boredom
10. Towing service
11. Stop to go Faster
12. Know when to stop!
13. Positive mental attitude
14. Eat healthy foods
15. Eating times
16. Separate your stops
17. Obtain fuel early
19. Carry a flat repair kit
20. Cellular phones
21. Upgrade your tool kit
22. Carry extra water!
23. Asprin/Tylenol
24. Take vitamins
25. Mapping software
26. Crossing county lines
27. Outriding your eyes
28. Semi-truck dangers
1. Know your limits and plan your trip around them.
If the longest ride you have ever taken is 300 miles in a day, don't plan
a trip with a string of endless five- hundred mile days. Iron Butt
Association surveys also warn of an important trend in long distance trip
planning (see Chart A). Discounting weather or other problems; after an
initial mileage peak on days one and two, daily average mileage will
steadily drop during trip days three to seven. On day seven of a trip, the
typical long distance rider will comfortably ride about 65% of the average
daily mileage that they would book on a two day trip. If the pros have this
type of mileage attrition rate, would you plan on any less?
Also include large easy-to-cut loops into your trip plan. If you do get
behind schedule, this is the easiest way to skip part of your trip without
ruining the rest of it.
CHART "A" - Average Mileage expectations of an experienced Long Distance
Rider
MILES
^^
^^ X
^^ X X
^^ X
^^ X
^^ X
^^ X X X
^^ X X X X X X
^^ X X X X X X X X
^^
MILES
DAYS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Whether you are capable of riding 300 miles per day, or 1,000, the ability
to make miles tends to decrease as the length of the trip increases. The
most severe loss is in days 3 through 7, where Iron Butt types then level
out to about 65% of their peak capacity.
2. Forget about high speeds.
Forget what you've been told; high speeds and long-distance riding have
little in common. A steady rider can book more miles, enjoy more mountain
vistas and ride more twisty miles than a canyon carver bent on making the
best times across a mountain pass. Besides the obvious effects on fuel
mileage, which means more time wasted looking for gas, and the fatigue
caused by fighting the effects of pushing a motorcycle through the wind,
riding much beyond the flow of traffic will land you a hefty speeding
ticket. While you are on the side of the road having a spirited discussion
with a Police officer about your 10/10ths riding style, the turtle-like
rider on the Honda 250 will wave as he sets himself up for the next set of
corners.
3. Leave your drugs and coffee supply at home.
It's this simple, drugs and other stimulants do not work! If you need
No-Doze or other drugs to stay alert (the Iron Butt Association includes
coffee and colas on this hot list), it's time to stop for the day and get
some serious rest.
4. Prepare your motorcycle before the trip.
With vacation time in short supply, why would you waste time during a trip
to have your tires replaced? It is often cheaper to replace tires and chains
at home rather than squeezing the few remaining miles from them to only find
that they are not available. Additionally, quality motorcycle oils can go
the distance. It is not unheard of Iron Butt types grinding away 10,000 or
more miles between oil changes. Running hours between oil changes and work
load means more than miles. A motorcycle ridden around town will need more
frequent changes than one used on a long trip.
5. Avoid adding accessories or doing maintenance immediately before a trip.
If it can be avoided, don't use a trip as a test bed for a new exciting
accessory and don't forget, even the best mechanic can make a mistake. Try
and avoid picking up your motorcycle and heading out directly on a 10,000
mile trip. A trip is also not the best time to try out that new rainsuit,
helmet or packing technique!
7. Pack wisely; keep personal supplies handy.
While many riders use a tank bag, what they pack in them is not always
well thought out. Sun screen, skin lotions, eye cleaner, eye lubricant, a
flash light, a tire gauge, maps and other essentials should all be kept in a
handy location. If these items are not on-hand when you need them, you won't
use them. That can lead to costly mistakes like missing a road because you
didn't want to find your map or roasting your face and then facing painful
sun burn for days into a trip (ever try wearing a helmet over a sun-burnt
head? - do it once and you will never forget to pack the sun screen where it
is handy).
On the other hand, things like registration and insurance papers should be
kept in a secure water tight area of the motorcycle. Assuming you probably
will only need these items while talking to the Law, having them stowed away
gives you time to talk to the officer and convince him you are human and not
some crazed-biker - that could work to your advantage.
8. Be ready before you leave, don't waste time shopping on the road.
The same rules that applies to your motorcycle should apply to your riding
gear and essentials. Maintain a check list of items to carry and then check
it before you leave. Buying toothpaste at 7-11 is no big deal, but having to
shop around for a sweater or swimsuit or specialty medicines that you left
at home can eat up valuable riding or rest time.
9. Learn how to avoid boredom.
Long rides usually mean riding across areas you might not consider prime
riding spots. To some riders U.S. 50 across Nevada is a beautiful ride. To a
canyon carver it can be a long, hot boring, dull highway to hell. For times
like this, carrying a tape player with your favorite music can prove
invaluable. Some of the other tricks of the trade are to stock up your tank
bag with a supply of tart candies that you can munch on while riding. A sour
lemon drop will shock your senses and keep you going another twenty miles!
10. Join a towing service!
Break downs happen and there is nothing like being stuck with no one to
turn to for help. MTS, AMA, Cross-Country motor club, some insurance
companies and some auto clubs have plans that will tow you out of trouble.
This is not a matter of just money (the cost of the plan versus the risk of
the cost of a later tow), these clubs have contracted with tow companies
around the U.S. Skip the insurance and you can spend hours burning up the
phone looking for a tow company. Pay a little now or pay a lot later in the
form of money and wasted trip time.
11. Learn to Stop to go Faster.
On the surface this tip may not make sense, but the successful long
distance rider uses this strategy to their advantage. Since each rider is
different, no one can predict a comfortable speed average for every rider.
What is important is to know what speed your internal riding clock runs by
and when your speed falls below that average, take time out and get some
serious rest. Wasting time on coffee stops or milling about gas stations is
time that could be better spent in a comfortable room sleeping or even
better, taking a walk to stretch tired and sore muscles and get some oxygen
pumping back into your brain.
12. Know when to stop!
As soon as you are tempted to close an eye, even "for just a second", find
the nearest safe place to pull over and take nap!
Other symptoms to watch for:
Inability to maintain a desired speed. If you find yourself slowing down and
constantly having to speed back up, you are ready to fall asleep!
Forgetting to turn high beams down for oncoming traffic.
Indecision. Can't decide to stop for gas or continue? Can't decide what turn
to take? These are all a result of fatigue.
13. Maintain a good mental attitude.
If you really hate rain, you just may be better off taking a time-out and
hold-up in a motel for a day. The same goes for excessive heat (if possible,
try riding at night) or a host of other conditions that can put you in such
a bad mental state that riding is no longer fun (if you are concentrating on
being miserable, you are not concentrating on the road). Yes, answering to
your boss why you are a day or two late can cause some stress, but at least
you might make it safely home!
14. Eat healthy foods.
Fast foods and a big road trip are a bad combination, but realizing that
this is the real world, try these time-proven combinations:
In the mornings stick to oatmeal, cereals or one egg with toast (no butter
please!). Lunch should be skipped in favor of a light, healthy snack. Dinner
should include a salad with a light pasta dish (quickly and readily
available at the long distance riders all-time place to hate; Dennys and
most Wendys).
If all else fails, our motto is, "If you can't eat right at least try and
eat light!"
15. Eat at the right times of the day.
On weekdays, eating breakfast after 9 a.m. is usually the best time to
beat the working stiffs not lucky enough to be out on a ride. The opposite
is true on weekends, when people tend to sleep in and crowd restaurants
later in the morning. Dinner is best eaten early (remember, we skipped
lunch) to beat the dinner crowd. Additionally, eating after dark with a long
ride ahead is a bad idea - it will put you to sleep.
Whenever we speak of eating out, the subject of time management always comes
up. Specifically, how can the long distance rider afford to waste time
sitting around while a restaurant cooks their meal? Here is a time proven
method that works: After you enter the restaurant and get a seat (if the
restaurant is crowded, try the counter for faster service) explain to your
waitress that you are in a hurry. In extreme cases, we recommend giving her
a generous tip up front and quickly give her your order, ask her to leave
the check with the meal and explain that you will be back shortly. This is
now your free time to take care of important business.
Although riders differ in technique, most will go to the bathroom and wash
up (even if you are not "dirty", washing your face with warm water is a
refreshing experience) and reapply sun screen or skin lotion. If you have
phone calls to make, quickly make them now. In most cases, your meal will be
sitting for you ready to eat. With this technique, meal stops can be cut to
a reasonable twenty to thirty minute window - that may sound fast for a full
meal, but when handled properly with good time management, you will have a
relaxing hot, meal while your fellow riders are choking down a cold sandwich
standing around a gas station.
16. Separate gas stops from food stops.
After getting gasoline (a mini rest-stop in itself), it takes just as long
to suit-up to ride across the street to eat as it does to ride twenty miles
down the road and then eat. The result is two mini rest-stops for the price
of one.
17. Get gas before you need it.
You only have to run out of gas one time, or take a five mile detour in
search of gas to blow the time you saved by not stopping. When gas is handy,
stop and get it!
19. Carry a flat repair kit and know how to use it!
The majority of tubeless tires punctures can be repaired in just a few
minutes! There is no excuse for not carrying a repair kit, but even more
importantly, you should know how to use it. Practice at home on an old tire
so you are not trying to figure the process out on the side of the road!
While tube-type tires are more of a hassle, once your learn how to patch a
tube, it can be done a lot faster than trying to arrange a tow.
20. Carry a Cellular phone.
They may not work in Death Valley, but you may be surprised at the number
of locations they do work. Thanks to our aggressive farm communities desire
to ride the tractor and be able to call mom at the house, the cellular
industry has cell cites in many places that would surprise you. A cell phone
combined with towing insurance, can make what was once a trip ruining event
a tolerable experience.
21. Upgrade your tool kit.
The tool kit in most motorcycles are at best junk. Use the tool kit as a
guide and purchase quality replacement tools from Snap-On or Sears'
Craftsman. Also add a compact digital voltmeter (Radio Shack sells a pocket
model for less than $20) and a ratchet and socket set.
For possibly the most comprehensive tool listing ever devised, see "Ron
Major's Tool Kit" from his May 1997 post to the LD Riders list.
22. Carry at least one-half gallon of water.
You don't have to be riding in the desert to listen to this advice. For
example, pushing a broken motorcycle a short distance up a hill to get it to
a safe parking place on a cool night can generate a thirst that cannot be
described.
Your water supply should be kept in two sources. One should be used for
casual drinking (i.e., whenever you are thirsty, you drink from that bottle)
and the remainder should be packed away for true emergencies such as
breakdowns. The theory here is straightforward. Once riders start carrying
water, they will use it. Unfortunately, if you drink your emergency supply
away, then you will not have it for an emergency. Do yourself a favor and
pack the emergency supply in an area that is inconvenient to get to and save
it for when you really need it. On a health note, although bottled water has
a fairly long shelf life, to insure that tap water is safe to drink, it
should be changed every few days.
Although it may seem extreme, we also recommend that during the long rides,
you give up local tap water and use purified bottled water. Changes in the
local make-up of the water supply can lead to upset stomach, diarrhea and in
some extreme cases require hospitalization. Besides those concerns, in 1995
the federal government issued a warning that Cryptosporidium, a
disease-carrying parasite, can slip through most municipal water treatment
systems. While a healthy individual can fight off this bug, we recommend
avoiding it, and other potential water-born parasites while on the road by
using purified water. For more information on bottled water brands that use
production processes that are free from parasites contact the International
Bottled Water Association at (800) 928-3711 or NSF International (a product
testing organization) at (800) 673-8010.
23. Carry aspirin for aches and pains.
Aspirin can mask and alleviate a variety of pains and work great to
prevent muscle spasms.
24. Pack a variety of vitamins.
We have to defer this exact advice to a doctor, but in general a minimum
recommendation is to take a one- a-day vitamin. Seek the advice of your
doctor as to what vitamins are best for the type of conditions you are
riding through (hot summer-time conditions has different requirements than
winter riding).
For long distance riding, look for vitamins that will prevent muscle cramps.
25. If you own a computer, consider purchasing a mapping program.
While most mapping programs are far from perfect, in some cases they will
route you in ways that defy logic. For example, they may send you on a U.S.
highway, which in many places are not a highway at all, but surface streets,
through a busy city instead of bypassing the city in favor of the
Interstate, they can quickly and with a high degree of accuracy calculate
point-to-point mileages. Anyone that has ever tried accurately reading
mileages from an Atlas and combining them only to find out the map was wrong
or that they missed 25 miles here or there, will love any of the popular
mapping programs (we use Automap Professional, which is no longer
available).
DeLorme Map-N-Go and Street Atlas are currently among the preferred
standalone mapping software packages within the Long Distance community, as
well as a few others. The DeLorme package has a satellite link with various
GPS navigation tools, and also a interface with the internet to obtain
real-time weather and road construction advisories along your proposed
route. Another trick DeLorme feature is "Exit Services", which outlines all
available services (fuel/food/lodging/etc) at each Interstate exit.
26. When riding back roads, be extra cautious when crossing county lines!
In many states, road maintenance is the responsibility of the county. That
means every fifty miles or so you may be dealing with different pavement
mixes and different engineers ideas of what is a good design. After crossing
a county or state line, take notice of subtle signs of how the local road
department operates. Has the pavement gone from asphalt to concrete? Are the
turns well marked? Do they use decreasing radius turns? Are road repairs
done with rubber sealer (the kind that flexes slightly when hot, which can
cause some riders to panic if they are not used to a motorcycle moving
around underneath them when leaned over), gravel or other hazardous methods?
Is vegetation trimmed back from the side of the road? Do fences exist to
keep animals on the sidelines?
Find out how the locals do it before you get the surprise of your life!
27. Never ride faster than you can stop!
Imagine riding down the Interstate in a heavy fog at 50 mph when all of a
sudden you come across a stopped car in the fast lane. Can you stop before
you hit the car? You may think this is a ridiculous question, but it has
happened. Don't be the next rider killed by out-riding your eyes.
This same tip applies to good weather as well. Is making 10 mph more around
a corner you can't see through worth spending six months in a hospital?
Think about it like that and you may live to ride another day.
28. Do you want to live? Stay away from trucks!
Truck drivers hate having anyone follow them. When you are behind a truck,
you become a liability. Instead of paying attention to the road, a trucker
will start worrying about the people on their tailgate. From a bikers
standpoint, it is not uncommon for a truck tire to explode. Iron Butt
veteran and professional truck driver Mary Sue Johnson warns, "A blowout can
blast off the truck's heavy mudflap with the force of a bowling ball going
60 m.p.h." Suzy goes on to warn that should the truck run over tailpipe or
muffler in the road, you probably won't see it until too late leading to
disaster." Additionally, if a trucker has to get on the brakes hard because
of a of something in the road or someone has cut them off, (it happens to me
once a day or more) AND you aren't alert back there, you will hit the
trailer - it happens all the time!"
Least you think this is all great theory but will never happen to you, this
real-life incident of the forces involved with truck tires comes from the
June 3, 1997 Chicago Sun-Times titled "Teen dies when wheel fly off
truck..." Two wheels broke loose from an 18-wheel semi-trailer truck on the
Eisenhower Expressway...killing an 18-year-old youth. One wheel rolled up
and over a concrete barrier and struck the sport utility vehicle in which
the teen was sitting in the front passenger seat.
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]From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:22:59 +0100 Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium The parts books list a heat shield which was a piece of bent metal that bolts onto the engine/manifold area. I know, 'cos one of my brackets on this broke. Okay, a bit of Meccano could have repaired it, but too young to remember proper Meccano, I didn't have any! So, got the official part number.... I assumed this was standard, and there's no asbestos on this. I think I've seen a photo in a mag. somewhere (2yrs ago probably), where the heatshield had been replaced with a bean can. Hence the "you can repair the 2.25l engine with a cornflake and a bean tin". The cornflake packet is a get-you-home head gasket btw. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> on 07/22/98 09:21:35 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: RE: gearbox, how warm is normal? - Heat Sheilds - Aluminium Hi Peter, I don't have my parts books with me right now but the heat shield that I am talking about was a factory part that bolts on to the manifold and extends down between the manifold and footwell area. I haven't seen one in a long time, but I remember that they kind of looked like they were made out of asbestos..!! Any body know for sure? Anyway they were a standard LR part so they should be obtainable from any parts supplier...unless they've been declared hazardous material and banned... Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:01:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Land-Rover.Team.Net: shameless commerce division
Will these items be available to list members who won't be there?
I'd be interested in the mousepad, T-shirt, and maybe a mug too...
For shipping, I'll be living in Texas RSN - ie. when the visa finally gets
sorted.
Maybe I could ship a small quantity to the UK in hand luggage on one of my
return visits...
Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
caloccia@senie.com on 07/22/98 04:54:36 PM
Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com
cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)
Subject: Land-Rover.Team.Net: shameless commerce division
Hi all,
If you're travelling to the ANARC Land Rover 50th Celebration at
Greek Peak, you'll have the opportunity to get some STUFF with the LRO
list plaque (designed & copyright by Soren Vels) at the Store there.
If you want a pre-view of the designs for the t-shirts, mugs and mousepads,
check out http://www2.land-rover.team.net/stuff/
Prices will be reasonable, but I haven't got numbers for the mousepads
and mugs yet, when I've got all the figures I'll add them to the page.
Cheers,
-B
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]From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:26:07 +0200 Subject: Re: gearbox, how warm is normal? Peter M. Kaskan wrote: > how long have you driven it before you checked? Generally up to 900kms in a day General rant: This all relates to one of my convictions about L-R engines: No matter that L-R have a reputation for inserting the most inept lumps of metal available into their series vehicles. They further compound the problem by doing their level best to strangle and choke their engines through lousy air cleaners/carburation and even lousier exhausts. How is an engine supposed to perform if it can't inhale or exhale without impediment? This is where my rant gets relevant: Because of the teensy diameter downpipes and main exhaust piping (and the restrictive - read backpressure - silencer), the exhaust gasses can't escape easily, heat builds up and you stand more chance of toasting your exhaust valves. My solution: Fit a large bore freeflow exhaust system (make it stainless while you're at it) for about US$100. Fit a Weber carb for about US$150. Oh, and throw the oilbath aircleaner away. These are my total engine mods, I don't believe in messing with any of the other engine settings or components. They work for me. Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 03:10:51 -0500 Subject: Windowless side panels for 109 PU My standard 109 is now operating as a Pickup but I think I will be using my safari top and using it as a three door. Did they ever make long side panel with out windows for the standard 109? The reason I ask is that I will be using the pickup as a dog truck. I will need to make a six or eight compartment unit to bolt over the bed of the truck under the safari roof. If I could come up with some solid windowless panels, it would make this conversion easier. cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 03:13:57 -0500 Subject: aluminum badness where rear frame member meets rear tub. I have some badness where the one of the two brackets from the rear frame member bolts to the tub. The aluminum of the tub at that location is not great. What caused this problem? How can I remedy it? What can I do to prevent it from happening in the future? Thanks Cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:20:22 +0100 Subject: Re: Windowless side panels for 109 PU If anything, that's the standard. People then *add* windows! :-) Hence, the huge combination of different windows. The hardtops are often seen in bits at Old Sodbury - side panels, tops, rears (well, those two poxy little windows). Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> on 07/23/98 09:10:51 AM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Windowless side panels for 109 PU My standard 109 is now operating as a Pickup but I think I will be using my safari top and using it as a three door. Did they ever make long side panel with out windows for the standard 109? The reason I ask is that I will be using the pickup as a dog truck. I will need to make a six or eight compartment unit to bolt over the bed of the truck under the safari roof. If I could come up with some solid windowless panels, it would make this conversion easier. cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:54:45 +0200 Subject: Re: Iffy prop-shaft Keith Addison wrote: >There's no rotational play at all on my > lightweight. Jambo Keith, There certainly should be! Rotational play, that is. You should have a certain degree of "backlash" setting in your diffs and gearbox. Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:07:02 +0100 Subject: Re: Overdrive advice pls Rick Grant wrote: > Essentially their arguments were that OD's were not needed with 16" wheels, > that they stressed the gearbox, wouldn't last more than 40K miles, and were > of limited value for the money. They also said that the most effective > performance enhancement I could add to my machine was a Zenith carb and to > forget the overdrive. > This is all contrary to what I had read and believed. I don't know what to > think now. I've had a Fairey overdrive on my 109" admittedly a series III, but I can't see that making any difference,for ten years and 60,000 miles with no problems either with the overdrive or the rest of the transmission, apart from swivel housing leaks and brakes. The main advantage is the lower revs make it a little less noisy inside. The engine is a 2.25 petrol with a Weber carb and on a run of 250 miles or so last year with 4 adults and camping gear on a roof rack (the adults were inside, the gear on the roof!) the fuel consumtion worked out at over 20 miles to the gallon (English gallon). As for performance, if I wanted that I would have a Jaguar or something. I very rarely go over 50 m.p.h. and can cope with little old ladies passing me on their push bikes. Overall I have been very pleased with the O/D and would recommend them to anyone. Mick Forster 1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol 1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol Very sad Metro :-( http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/ http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/LWBrst/LWBrst.html (Details will appear as time allows) ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 05:33:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Series IIA and a half? Sean- We need the whole number to look it up (9 numbers). Chris Hinkle ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980723 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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