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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:24:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Differentials

I can't be sure, but I think that the standard rover differentials are
interchangeable - providing that they are both the same type.

I have just serviced mine, and having them both on the bech at the same
time, I could not see any difference between them.

Usual disclaimers though...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
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e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 08:33:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Breather alternative

Bill and Dave both recommend a simple raised breather.

Thanks for the good advice.  I did call Summit and they confirmed that
indeed there is no check ball or valving in their breather to prevent
water ingress.  So raised breathers it shall be for me!

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 09:00:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hoisting the guts

About lifting the engine and gearbox together.  I have also done that,
recently.  I had bought my LR without the drivetrain in it, so when
I had reassembled the engine, I figured it was easier to attach it
to the gearbox outside the vehicle.  By the way, instead of a clutch
alignment special tool, I used a trick from an old mechanic: use a
1/2" socket extension, and roll some tape on the ends until it snugly
fits the hole in the clutch plate and the flywheel opening; worked 
great.  When I lifted the whole thing, it did hang down at the gearbox 
end, but that suited me fine, as I was reinserting the works with
the bulkhead attached (I had to lift up the bulkhead a bit to make it
fit through.  I should note that in making the new frame for my LR,
the PO cleverly constructed a removable frame crossmember for the
gearbox: what I did would probably be undoable on a regular LR (at
least, not a one-person job as was the case for me.  I would think
that with the bulkhead attached on a regular LR chassis, the engine
and gearbox would have to be put in separately.
My only problem was ending up stripping the threads on one of the new
engine mounts, but a die fixed that nicely.
If you're doing this work alone (even with a helper) be very careful,
you're talking about a lot of weight there.  I did it alone with a
regular 1ton block and tackle, and was very careful at every stage so as
not to get caught in a bind.  Lining up the mounting points alone
was probably the toughest job: pushing and pulling while trying to insert
the mounts in the holes (that's how I ended up stripping one).
Hopefully I did a good job (first time!) putting the whole thing together,
and won't have to lift it out for a long time!
Anyways, good luck, and be careful.
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

From: rat@hitech.net.au (The Rat !)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:02:34 +1000
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:01:05 +1000
Subject: 6000 miles in 3 weeks (kind of wordy) - NO LR

Bill Rice wrote (among many other things):

>so no worries (as our annoying waiter at Outback steakhouse 
>said the other night right before I strangled him).

What!?  Don't tell me that Aussie saying has infiltrated in the USA now!

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila" 
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 06:57:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 6000 miles in 3 weeks (kind of wordy) - NO LR

>Bill Rice wrote (among many other things):
>>so no worries (as our annoying waiter at Outback steakhouse
>>said the other night right before I strangled him).
>What!?  Don't tell me that Aussie saying has infiltrated in the USA now!

Only in these "roach steakhouses" where everyone in the waitstaff tries to
act as if they themselves are from "down under".. the steak is lousy and
the general atmosphere got on my nerves after a bit.  I wonder if Bill had
the same experience??

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 07:09:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Frank Elson

I was glad to see someone mention that Frank was "away" and not "gone
away".  I know that I didn't notice his post mentioning going to Billing,
and when someone brought up his recent absence given his recent heart
problems...it wasn't a far stretch to come up with some rather grim
possibilities.  I'm sure he will be atleast slightly amused with the
"where's Frank?" interest.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

------------------------------

From: "Len N. Perdic" <lnp@worldchat.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:23:29 -0400
Subject: Zenith Carb Adjustment

Hi All!

It's seems that the Series III is running a tad rough these days.  She idles
way too low and when I start 'er up, I get black smoke coming from the
exhaust (not a lot).
I checked the plugs and they're all carboned up, so I suspect that the
mixture is too rich.  I cleaned the plugs and went for a ride around the
block.  I checked them again and sure 'nough, they're all black again.
So now I attempt to adjust the mixture and slow idle, but how.  In the
Haynes manual, thay say to:

1.  screw the mixture control screw right in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns
2.  turn the slow running screw in until it touches the stop, then rotate
one complete turn
3.  bring the engine up to running temp
4.  adjust the mixture screw in the required direction until engine speed
increases and runs smoothly
5.  adjust slow running screw until idling speed is approx. 500rpm

My questions (as they relate to the above steps):

2.  when the screw stops, IT STOPS... it doesn't go any further.  Now what?
4.  what is the REQUIRED DIRECTION?  what does turning left do compared to
turning right?
5.  if you don't have a tach, how do you know when the rpm's are at 500

I know that these may seem rather trivial questions to those that are more
mechanically adept, so please pardon the "newbie-ness".  I would appreciate
any and all comments.

Thanks,
Len

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 98 08:20:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Differentials

>  Can anyone tell me if the front and rear differentials are interchangeable?
;>  I'm referring to the unit as a whole; from the front of the driving 
;>flange to
;>where the bevel pinion housing mates to the axle case, and everything in
;>between.

Dan, Assuming that you have the same diffs in the front and back, the 
complete differential assemblies are identical and will interchange.  

I have moved the front diff to the rear when a chip from a broken axle 
broke the ring & pinion gear.  It kept me going on rear wheel drive until 
I could afford another ring & pinion.  Now that I have a Salisbury in the 
rear and Rover diff in the front i can no longer switch them back & 
forth.  

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 11:36:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US

"Defender is an extremely expensive vehicle to assemble. It's bolted together,
which means someone has to do the bolting."

BULL#&%T!

Chevy trucks are bolted together! They don't cost a whole lot.

Ford trucks are bolted together, as are Chrysler trucks!

This is the area, where the accountants are trying to "justify" certain
things, versus what everybody knows works. Typical of a present-day, large
British company. I've worked for British Airways for 9 1/2 years now, so I've
been there, done that, and seen some pretty incredible stuff - like the
repainting of the tails of all the planes (now, they're talking about putting
the old colors back, because the public hates the new colors just as much as
we employees do! Oh well...only 17 million Pounds Sterling down the drain),
and only giving the employees 2 1/2 days pay for profit sharing - after having
record profits! (not a smart way to keep the profit makers happy)

Unibody construction rarely goes over well with the military, because it costs
more to fix it, and some designs are not general-maintenance friendly - which
is where the existing design shines, costly or not.

Re-designing Defender could go the same way as the MG-R: build it with the
U.S. in mind, and not take it there, because nobody would buy a $40,000 MGB.
Granted, people are throwing $53,000 at new Range Rovers, but as I said in
another post, Defendrs are NOT Range Rovers. Last time they were here, they
started at $26,000 (BTW - Discos started at about the same price, but since
Defender is gone, it's jumped to $35,000), and since the Disco price has gone
up, I can't see them trying to ask more for a Defender, since it's at the
bottom of the (financial) food chain.

Charles

------------------------------

From: ggg@mediaone.net (Gerald)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:43:27 GMT
Subject: Seeking coil sprung frame over experience

Anyone here done a Series frame over to a coil sprung chassis? Or know
someone who has?

I am seeking advice from an "amateur" who has done it. Not someone who
bought one converted or paid professionals to do it. Thanks

--
Gerald
ggg@mediaone.net

------------------------------

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:19:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: FS:1958 Series I

I am considering selling my 88", diesel, Home(RHD) canvas, bronze
green(original
paint)......in Maine....email directly for details.

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, USA, 04655
207-255-4036

Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks Italian, the mechanics
German, the lovers French, and it is all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where the chefs are British, the lovers Swiss, the mechanics
French, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians.

Note:  In order to address any potential flames concerning the above...
	please be advised that my heritage is as follows:
	Grandfather #1 was a KURZ (Germany)
	Grandfather #2 was a MOULEN (France)
	Granndmother#1 was a ROBINSON (England)
	Grandmother #2 was a SALDARINI (Italy)
Concerning the Swiss component..... they really are just a nasty
combination of the above...and I'll argue that one with you anytime.

------------------------------

From: jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:30:10 -0400
Subject: SOLAROS Tellico Rally

The Southern Land Rover Society would like to invite you to our First
Annual Unofficial Tellico Rally from August 21st to the 23rd.  All the
information is available on our club web page at
http://www.learnlink.emory.edu/solaros and follow the link to the Rally
info page.  Please sign up for a ride if you plan on attending.

The Upper Tellico Off-Road Vehicle Area is located at the southern end of
the North Carolina  Tennessee border between Murphy, NC and Tellico
Plains, TN.  The area contains what are regarded as some of the most
difficult trails on the East Coast.  Trail rides are planned for Friday
and Saturday, and will range from relatively easy to incredibly heinous. 
Impromptu rides are likely on Thursday and Sunday.  All types of vehicles
are welcome.  Camping is on-site and hotels are available nearby.

Sean Murphy
'94 D-90 Loaded with toys, *NEW* 1970 SIII 88!
Rally Organizer
Jules@learnlink.emory.edu

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 19:27:30 +0100
Subject: V8 0-60

Apparently it is a shade under half a minute for a Series V8!

EY
S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 01:23:45 +0700
Subject: Wipers

Thanks to everybody for their suggestions on the wiper problem. I had
installed the cable on the wrong side of the the boxes, so I spent today
tearing out the dash and redoing it--works fine now and parks OK. 

Regards,

John Baker
Bangkok

------------------------------

From: "LT S. ROCHNA" <rochnas@stennis.navy.mil>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:06:35 +0000
Subject: Eng change

Hi all:

Like many I'm facing an engine change in the near future.  I'm 
curious, since I'm in there already, what a tranny rebuild would 
involve in both time and cost.  I'm pretty much satisfied with it as 
is but I know there is a tooth missing from the 1st sync ring as 
evidenced by it clinking into the pan during an oil change.  If it is 
fairly straightforeward I might mess with it.  The other major 
question is what is involved in the fitting of higher ratio hi-range 
gears into the transfer case.  I've heard of them and since most of 
my driving is on pavement it sounds like a good move (at least to 
lose the screaming coming from the OD).

Thanks for the help - Steve
'72 SIII 88"

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:12:23 EDT
Subject: Re- Frank Elson

>Has anyone heard from Frank lately?  He was pretty regular on the lists
>until very recently.

>I hope he hasn't had another heart attack.

>Ron

Frank was 100% when I spent an hour or so with him at Billing today.

Mike Rogers

--part0_900882744_boundary
Content-ID: <0_900882744@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
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	  Contents:

			Message Digest Contents

 msg Sender                             Lines Subject
   1  MARCINKO3@aol.com                   13 Re: Group of LR's??
   2  NADdMD@aol.com                      22 Re: Hoisting the guts
   3  RWilli4013@aol.com                   7 Unsubscribe lro
   4  "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatic   16 Re: Solex Spindle Size
   5  "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatic   13 Re: A Leak of Rovers.
   6  Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <t   26 Solex Questions
   7  "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.c   15 Greek Peak
   8  "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.c   24 Not just Freelanders
   9  "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.c   12 Frank Elson
  10  "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pi   34 3 - 4 tube radiator
  11  "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pi   15 OIl press gauge
  12  Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.   26 Wheels and stuff
  13  bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue   23 switch on cable
  14  Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.c    7 (no subject)
  15  JKwas61947@aol.com                  20 Transmission Breathers
  16  "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@e   40 Re: Not just Freelanders
  17  James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.n   30 Breathers
  18  MRogers315@aol.com                  11 Re-A Cloud?? of Rovers.
  19  "bill.di" <bill.di@mci2000.com>     41 Overheating
  20  andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co   17 Re: Frank Elson
  21  Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cg   15 Differentials
  22  "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon   49 Re: Freelander and defenders to
US
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------------------------------

From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 07:15:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Group of LR's??

Call me crazy, but I have always called a group of Rovers an Armada. (Hence
the name)

Rover on...

Steve 
Armada Off-Road LLC

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:03:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Hoisting the guts

In a message dated 7/17/98 10:43:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
car4doc@concentric.net writes:

<< Hi All,
  Well I am sure I should know this but I will ask for advise anyway.  I
 am doing a frame over on a 109 regular.(Dad's Toy)  The new frame is
 rolling & I want to lift the old engine & trans in to the new frame from
 the old frame.  I have new mounts ready & now I wonder if I can or
 should lift the engine & trans as a unit.    Any one done this? >>

BTDT twice.  Works quite well with at tractor front end loader.  NB: The
transmission will tend to cause the whole unit to rotate downward so I wrap a
separate strap from the back of the transmssion (around the transmission
brake) to the bucket (or hoist) to counteract this.

Nate

------------------------------

From: RWilli4013@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:06:44 EDT
Subject: Unsubscribe lro

unsubscribe lro

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 09:20:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Solex Spindle Size

Paul Quin wrote:
> Does anybody know the exact size (diameter) of the throttle spindle on a
> Solex?.

Paul: Just measured a new shaft.  .3135"
      Fluctuated at the center of shaft, probably due to the cut out for 
the plate.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 09:24:50 -0700
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

Russ Wilson wrote:

> LRO or Playboy.  I'm stuck with the LRO myself..
You know too much about me!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:43:42 +0000
Subject: Solex Questions

OK the fumes must have gotten to me.....Of course I mean SOLEX not
Weber!  I'll rephrase the question again....

The PO had put a bolt in the top of the carb where the correction jet
goes, so it idled beautifully (with Full choke) but did little
else....stalled when I put the gas to her....  I took it out and put a
jet in, now it runs rrrrrich (with no choke)  lotsa smoke in the garage,
lost the back wall at one point!

Question is...what size jet goes in the correction tube?  I have a 240,
170 and a 160.

Cheers, Ian

-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:37:32 +1000
Subject: Greek Peak

Charles Wolf wrote:
>Unfortuanately, I will not be able to attend Greek Peak.
>I spent my formulative years bombing down those hills
>and talking about girls on the way up the chairlift.

You learned to ski young Charles - whilst still on formula.  That's the best
way to chat up girls, they just love babies.  8-)

Ron

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:34:12 +1000
Subject: Not just Freelanders

Douglas Boehme wrote:

>A 110?  Dream big!  I'm shooting for a 300Tdi 130!
>If it does become available, I'll be trading in my D90
> without a second thought.

Doug, they don't turn around corners on trails as well as a D90.
They are cramped in the back (both 110 and 130)

BUT I want one.  And I want a Series.  Don't ask me why.  The Rangie is far
more practical than any of them. My 2¢ worth

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:30:24 +1000
Subject: Frank Elson

Has anyone heard from Frank lately?  He was pretty regular on the lists
until very recently.

I hope he hasn't had another heart attack.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 09:13:29 -0400
Subject: 3 - 4 tube radiator

 Bill    -
At 60 mph you should not notice any difference in the rad cooling. between a
2 and a 3. In any wevent both typoes are significantly larger than the rad
that was fitted to the original car. One significant difference however is
in the type of radiator construction. The LR radiator is known as a  G.O.T.
Construction  ( gill over tube ) this type of rad is typically used in off
highway vehicles because there is more clearance between the gills ( the
copper plates through which the tubes pass ) and they are less likely to
clog with debris. The heat exchange performance is inferior to CT type which
was fitted to your donor car. These can be identified by the corrugated fins
between the tubes. This type typically has fine louvres in the fins which
can clog very easily and reduce performance. However in clean condition the
heat exchange performance is superior to the old LR type.

 Did the engine run cool prior to the rad change, or is it  the ambient
temperature change. 
What methd are you using to determine what the coolant temperature is ?
Vehicle temp gauges are notoriously inacurate. 
 What temp setting thermostat are you using. 
There is nothing wrong with running 210 deg F  water, at pressure the
boiling point is raised. ( Thi assumes you have a tight system with a good
pressure cap. ) 

 When you changed the rad did you change all the cowl arangement also, this
would be useful at low speeds. At high speeds the engine fan is less
effective than the speed effects.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 09:16:38 -0400
Subject: OIl press gauge

Sandy writes
Touble is, I now need a 1/4" male
BST to 1/8" male BST union to hook it up...at *that* is unavailable on this
continent....

 You  will find that a National Pipe thread fitting will fit. At these sizes
the pitch is the same, only the thread angle is different.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 14:21:48 +0100
Subject: Wheels and stuff

Hi Folks

OK. Its a nice sunny warm saturday. I figured it would be OK to swap the
750r16 off-road noisy tyres for on-road biased tyres.  A freind gave me 5
205r16 with colway remoulds, the onroad type...

We also have a shed on its side, so had most of the tyres and wheels
holding it in its position, half up.

Once in the garden i found my 5 rims & tyres had gone down to 2. that is,
the ones not holding the shed up!

So. Some kind neighbour has helped themselves to 3 rims and tyres.... if i
find out who did it i will put the hi-lift it good use... Oh well. Just
have to stick to the Deestones. Bugger, aint it!!!

Cheers
EY
S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 06:53:59 -0700
Subject: switch on cable

>From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
>Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 17:40:06 -0500
>Subject: Name that switch/relay!

So what is the wiring relay/ switch which is directly above the starter
switch solenoid and directly below the fuse box?  It has three wires on
it connecting to two points.  It is attached to the firewall by a
bracket and appears to use to have some form of cable (old heater adjust
maybe?) underneath it but on the same bracket.

cwolfe

Hi Charles,
It sounds like the switch that is originally on the Choke cable to light
the cold start light when the engine warms as a reminder to push in the choke.

Bob B

------------------------------

From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 08:21:41 -0700
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: JKwas61947@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 12:56:40 EDT
Subject: Transmission Breathers

Recently I've noticed a film of 90wt coating my back window.  It looks like
it's being pushed out the back of the transfer case.  I'm thinking that the
pressure's rising inside and forcing it out.

My question:  Where are the breathers on the tranny and transfer cases?  I've
looked and can't find them.  If they don't have breathers as stock, how do I
fit them?

Thanks

John Kwasnik
Sherburne NY

>.

------------------------------

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 18:56:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders

Hi Guys,

Just got back from Billing (it's about 2 mins from my house.....sigh!), what
a lot of VERY nice vehicles, except that ABORTION of a Land Rover - the
bloody Freelander.

I own an Explorer, okay, it's a big estate car - FINE. I like it, it's built
on a chassis, it can some rough handling, it's easily bellied, but it cr*ps
on boy racers. One 4 Litre V6 over here = 10 Vauxhal (Opel/GM) Nova/Corsas
okay! - BUT I KNOW IT CANNOT TOUCH A LANDY OFFROAD WITHOUT SERIOUS MODS.

At Billing Land Rover are 'selling' the FreeLander as an Off road vehicle -
GET REAL.

CRAP CRAP CRAPPITY CRAP

IT IS A TOY. A JACKED UP ROVER MAESTRO (did you get those in the US? -
British rust buckets) - Forget it, buy a Vitara or a Rav 4 if you want a
'hairdresser mobile' (as we call them over here) - at least they are sold as
pavement cars.

My 2 cents worth (is that 3/4 of a pence?)

Neil

Mines been beers with twigs in for some hours.........

P.S. Robin is for sale - some severe welding is in order..........Noi MOT
for this baby in the UK for a while!

1974 Series III - 'Robin' - SHJ 299M
1998 Ford Explorer - 'What Boy Racer? Where? I Can't see him!?' - NIB 4318
1998 Daewoo Lanos - 'Well, the wife has to take the kids to nursery in
something!'

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 13:45:21
Subject: Breathers

>I wouldn't bother spending $10 on new breathers that aren't even raised.
Just
>get 1/4" pipe fittings w/ the 1/8 NPT thread on the other end, some clear
1/4"
>hose from Home Depot (or fuel line, which costs more and you can't see
>contamination bubbling up in), and some 1/4 " in-line fuel filters and make
>your own raised breathers for about the same cost.  No water will get in if
>the end of the tube's not in the water.
>Plus this allows the axle to suck air in when rapidly cooled (immersed in a
>pond, for instance), which isn't a problem for most of Summit's customers,

but
>which is for us.  If the axle can't suck air in as it cools, it will
develop a
>vacuum inside and possibly suck water in through your hub or pinion seals.
>So go w/ the raised breather.
>your own raised breathers for about the same cost.  No water will get in if
>the end of the tube's not in the water.

You can also use the flexable brake hose, they screw into the breather hole
in the axle. The other end can then be raised and positioned where ever you
want to put it.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:33:43 EDT
Subject: Re-A Cloud?? of Rovers.

How's about a Rattle of Rovers:-)

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
+ a rolling RR chassis awaiting the right body!

------------------------------

From: "bill.di" <bill.di@mci2000.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 15:46:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Overheating

Have seen a few notes about overheating, so here's my problem if anyone has
any 
offerings.

It's a 109" LR with 2.25 ltr 4 cylinder that overheats at highway speeds (~60 
mph) after about 15 minutes or so of pulling up a slight incline.  The needle 
gets into the red and, after shutting down, it won't start for awhile (~45 
minutes in  90 
degree weather) - turns over but none-to-little firing.  The overheating has 
also happened in the dead of winter, with of course a faster cool down time to
next startup.  The radiator is probably series IIA, if that matters.  In the 
winter, I 
thought the problem was freezing coollant in the radiator tubes, but have
since 
confirmed that the coollant is at a 50-50 mixture.  After it overheated the 
last time, we were fine as long as speeds were at or below 50 mph.

I recently opened it up to inspect the thermostat ... and there was none!  I 
suspect someone had previously removed it in an attempt to alleviate the 
overheating problem.  Both the radiator cowling and fan shroud are in place.

Being new to Land Rovers, I'm a little hesitant to finger the radiator as the 
culprit ... but that's what I suspect.  Ignition timing is okay.  I guess I 
could also have a significant blockage somewhere in the engine's cooling 
channels.  Am also 
wondering if it could be bad cylinder rings -> excessive blow-by of exhaust 
gases -> excessive heat up of cylinder wall -> overheating of coolant (you 
might recall some compression ratios I put out awhile ago, which were 113,
113, 
117, & 116).

Any and all offerings are welcome!

Bill in Albuquerque

P.S.  I suspect that the 45 minute delay to restart is because of vapor lock, 
or boiling in the carburetor fuel bowl as someone thoughtfully mentioned
awhile 
ago.

------------------------------

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:58:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Frank Elson

In message <bulk.13109.19980718054703@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, The Becketts
<hillman@bigpond.com> writes
>Has anyone heard from Frank lately?  He was pretty regular on the lists
>until very recently.
>I hope he hasn't had another heart attack.
>Ron

He went to Billing at the beginning of the week he did tell us.

-- 
andy Smith

------------------------------

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:02:06 -0400
Subject: Differentials

Hi
  Can anyone tell me if the front and rear differentials are interchangeable?
  I'm referring to the unit as a whole; from the front of the driving flange
to
where the bevel pinion housing mates to the axle case, and everything in
between.

Thanks in advance.
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT.

------------------------------

From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 19:31:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 02:39:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US

>I doubt very much, that Defender would be drastically changed from what it is
now, simply because of military contracts: to completely change their design
just for one market (not to mention, the risk of not doing very well), and
possibly lose military contracts, could be disasterous!

As I mentioned in a previous post, Land Rover has been contemplating the
redesign of the Defender for quite awhile.  But I don't think this
re-design concept is in response to the requirements of the US market.  As
I said, the Defender is extremely expensive to produce.  It's a
bolt-together vehicle, which means someone has to do all the bolting.  It's
not a vehicle that lends itself to automated assembly.  Land Rover got a
big military contract with the Wolf long-wheelbase Defenders.  However, I
suspect any redesigned version of the Defender would stand on its own
merits, and so would not jeopardize the company's ability to compete for
further military contracts.  In fact, a re-designed vehicle, especially one
that was cheaper to produce, could put Land Rover in an even more favorable
position to win military contracts.  If in the process they can stick in
airbags and side impact protection to meet US specs, fine.  But I doubt
that any major redesign effort will be spurred by a desire to once again
import the Defender to the US; it will be motivated by the need to make the
darn thing cheaper to produce.

Compared with their UK and worldwide markets, the US market for Land Rovers
is very small despite the large numbers of them that are seen in cities
with a wealthy component of residents.  There are so many competing
vehicles in the US in the form of home-grown pickups and sport utilities
that Land Rovers are simply not a cost-effective choice for someone who
wants a vehicle to use on the job.  In overseas markets, where often
virtually every vehicle must be imported, Land Rovers, particularly the
utility versions, are a viable choice for someone who wants to cart around
a load of plywood or plumbing fixtures.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

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------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:12:35 EDT
Subject: Freelander in USA

It seems that the US is to get Freelander in 2000 complete with the new KV6
engine, If V W is still willing to supply the engines that is, following BMWs
decision not to continue supplying Rolls Royce with engines now that V W has
bought them!!!

Mike Rogers

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:20:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US

In a message dated 7/19/98 11:37:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
CIrvin1258@aol.com writes:

<< Chevy trucks are bolted together! They don't cost a whole lot.
 
 Ford trucks are bolted together, as are Chrysler trucks!
  >>

My understanding of why heavy work trucks are still body on chassis design is
that the unibody just does not hold up well to the stresses applied to the
sheetmetal joints and suffers failure much sooner than the standard body on
chassis design.  I am no engineer--ask my wife :o) but I do not understand why
most of the assembly of a defender couldn't be relatively automated with
relatively minor changes to the way the sheetmetal is placed on the truck.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:59:59 -0500
Subject: Loose sterring relay: thanks for everyones help

As several people correctly diagnosed, the steering relay had play in it
because the collar at the bottom was missing.  A call to Rovers North, a
groveling apology for not using a Genuine Part relay, promises only to use
Genuine Parts in future, and I secured a new collar for about $5.

The improvement in steering has been dramatic.  The feeling of "bump steer",
where the vehicle would bounce around after hitting a bump, appears to have
vanished.

The two bolts at the top of the relay were both also loose - after only
2,000 miles.  I'll check them regularly in future.

David Hope
64 llA
95 D90 SW - SOLD to a new LR dealer looking for inventory.  They even
offered me $10,000 cold hard cash for my llA.  I declined and my wife thinks
I've gone insane.

------------------------------

From: jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 18:22:07 -0400
Subject: New truck, new problems...

I just bought a 1970 Series III and have been going through it changing
fluids, adjusting cards, setting timing and all of the other things that
PO's generally screw up.  I've found a few problems that I could use some
advice on, though:

The steering wheel swings about 180 degrees without moving the wheels. 
The ball joints are good and they steering arms aren't moving.  Where is
the play in the steering and can it be tightened up or fixed?  Is it
likely to be a pain to get RHD parts or are they for the most part
interchangeable?

I've got a knock that sounds like the number four piston tapping the
cylinder head.  It's barely audible at idle, but gets louder as engine
rpm's increase.  Has anyone had similar experience?  What can cause a
knock like this and how can I diagnose it without pulling the entire
engine apart?  I'm blowing a bit of black smoke, but it looks fairly
Rover-normal to me.

1970 SIII RHD Nameless as yet
1994 D90 (LRNA10)

Sean P. Murphy
Project Director, LearnLink
Emory University

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 18:42:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Loose sterring relay: thanks for everyones help

In a message dated 98-07-19 17:55:44 EDT, you write:

> steering 

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:20:03 +0200
Subject: Re: Differentials

I am thinking of buying a paiur of standard rover axles to make "standby
axles" which I can renovate, then change when needed, so that i don't
have to keep the trucks off the road for a week every time I strip the
axles and swivel balls.

I have 2 88" SIIIs and a 109". The 109 has a salisbury.

Can I (in theory) use a standard axle on a 109" whilst I am servicing
the salisbury, or do I have to have a spare salisbury too?

Is it just a matter of using a different trasmission shaft to compensate
for the different distance between diff and gearbox output, and driving
carefully so as not to bust the weaker axles in the standard rear axle?

Do salisburies and standard diff's have the same ratio?

Is there anything which i haven't considered here?

words of advice welcome...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 18:49:49 EDT
Subject: hub seal failure

This D-90 is starting to P#@* me off. first i`m on my second starter in 3
weeks, think that the throttle position sensor(which was cleaned about 4K mile
ago) needs another cleaning, now the rear hub seal failed about 5 hours from
home. 
Can I do damage to the rear bearing driving it home while checking the fluid
level?
Thanks in advance, Rick

Ps why does this always happen before vacation or a rally?????????????

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 01:23:15 +0200
Subject: Re: hub seal failure

I don't know about the D90, but with the SIII many vehicles leak for
years without the bearings cooking. But then the series uses grease
rather than oil - unless it's oil overpressure from the diff/axle?

So my answer may be totally wrong if the D90 is radically different from
the series (that was a disclaimer!)

If your leak is a slow dribble, then I guess you can limp home - keep
the speed down, top the oil up, and check that the hub isnt too hot
every so often.

Maybe if you do have oil in yours - you could try grease instead as an
emergency measure? Just thinking aloud...

Good luck.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 01:30:45 +0200
Subject: Re: New truck, new problems...

I don't know about the steering - sounds like a tricky steering gear to
me (is the steering wheel screwed ALL the way on?)

As for the know - how do you know its no.4 cylinder? 

This sounds like the timing being too far advanced - you don't say
whether is diesel or petrol - if petrol, retard the distributor a few
degrees (I seem to remeber that this is anti-clockwise). If diesel,
retard the distributor pump a few degrees (this is anti-clockwise).

It may improve the smoke problem - it may make it worse. A proper
time-up distributor to TDC would be a better bet.

My experience is that different diesel rovers can begin to knock at
different timing positions - maybe this is due to the calibration of the
timing chain, this altering the relative timing position?

good luck anyway...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 98 17:08:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Differentials

>I am thinking of buying a paiur of standard rover axles to make "standby
;>axles" which I can renovate, then change when needed, so that i don't
;>have to keep the trucks off the road for a week every time I strip the
;>axles and swivel balls.

!!!!!!!!  EVERYTIME YOU STRIP AXLES & SWIVEL BALLS????  Adrian How often 
do you do this and why do you do this???? You should be able to go years 
& years whithout needing to open up the axle housings.  With three Rovers 
it seems one can be down a week when you do open one up.  

Axle housings are big HEAVY things, take a couple of people to wrestle 
around and would need to be stored in a dry location.  Unless you are 
carefull about dry storage, you spares would be rusty and need cleaning 
before they are assembled.

If you REALLY REALLY wanted spares I would suggest one each rebuilt LR & 
Salisbury diffs, a set of front & rear axles, and a fresh set of ball 
joint/front axle assemblies that you can quickly bolt on.  Replacing 
these assemblies would be quicker than swaping out the whole axle 
assemblies. Transporting them would be a lot easier & storring them would 
be easier.

I keep wondering what you are doing that you plan to break Salisbury rear 
ends and ball joint assemblies on a regular basis.
>I have 2 88" SIIIs and a 109". The 109 has a salisbury.
>Can I (in theory) use a standard axle on a 109" whilst I am servicing
>the salisbury, or do I have to have a spare salisbury too?

The Salisbury has a shorter rear prop shaft.

>Do salisburies and standard diff's have the same ratio?
>Can I (in theory) use a standard axle on a 109" whilst I am servicing

The same ratios are available.
>Is there anything which i haven't considered here?
>Can I (in theory) use a standard axle on a 109" whilst I am servicing

Dealing with rusted & banged up 'U' bolts and spring shackles.  Moving 
the axle asembly and linging everything up on both sides really goes 
easier with one or two helpers.  You really need to be doing something 
brutal to do in a good condition Salisbury & front swivel ball assemblies.
>words of advice welcome...
>Can I (in theory) use a standard axle on a 109" whilst I am servicing

Dont.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 02:17:11 +0200
Subject: Re: Differentials

Now that I have my 88 in shining condition underneath, I want to keep it
that way - and the other trucks too - trouble is, I have the odd day to
spend in the workshop, but not always weeks of free evenings, so spare
axles can be restored properly at liesure, and then swapped, so that
gradually, I get round all the trucks, without having to rush it.

If you use landies for a business, and let other people drive them, they
need looking after...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 13:34:14 +1000
Subject: diffs - interchangability

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:02:06 -0400
Subject: Differentials
Hi
  Can anyone tell me if the front and rear differentials are
interchangeable?
  I'm referring to the unit as a whole; from the front of the driving
flange to
where the bevel pinion housing mates to the axle case, and everything in
between.
Thanks in advance.
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT.

in a swb - yes

if you had a lwb with a salisbury rear end - no

if you had a Range Rover - yes

if you had an old Range Rover and wanted to put them in a swb - they would
fit in the swb but the ratios would be different

if you had a swb and wanted to put them in an old  Range Rover - you
couldn't bolt up the locator at the back

newer Range Rover- I think they now have fine spline inners ?

Discoveries - those rubber link things (some models) - I think they're only
on the back

How's that for a complicated answer to a simple question (when yes would
have done)  :-)

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 02:58:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Freelander and defenders to US

<<but I do not understand why some of the assembly of a Defender can't be
relatively automated with relatively minor changes to the way the sheetmetal
is placed on the truck.>>

It's easy - $$$$$$$$$$.

To automate an assembly line of this nature, can cost BIG bucks to begin with,
and even bigger bucks, if the initial machines break down. This in turn,
causes down-time, which slows production, which can only be made up for by
raising prices. When prices go up, customers look elsewhere. There's also the
"teething" period, where the end product has to return to the line, because it
wasn't put together correctly.

Sometimes, it's cheaper to have people at the top of the payscale, rather than
machines that may end up costing more than they're worth. The same rule
applies to other areas - such as the debate we have at the office all the
time: some BA stations in the U.S. are operated by BA staff, while others are
handled by contractors. The BA run stations are always better with regards to
customer service, as well as overall performance. Some of these stations cost
the company more to operate, but in the long run, we're the ones that retain
customers = more business. The contractors get the job done, but not
correctly, and some of the customer service isn't!

Really - the Defender design is the very same one that's existed since the
Series 1, albeit with minor changes.  This design obviously works. If Land
Rover were to convert it to unibody, the military would shortly after lose
interest in it, simply because the unibody design doesn't have a cab made up
of nothing more, than a bunch of access panels. There could be tremendous
costs involved with this, that may not be gained back with sales. This would
be a very big risk, after 50 years.

Charles

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 08:27:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Zenith Carb Adjustment

If adjusting the idle doesn't make any difference, you might have a
carburettor fault.

I had a sooted up engine - until the weekend, when I drove the truck to
Duxford and back (via
Beltring).  Still get the white smoke on startup, but gone is all the black
stuff on idle/acceleration.
Engine runs much smoother too.   :-)

There was a lot of hardware and Landies on the roads yesterday, strangely
enough...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

"Len N. Perdic" <lnp@worldchat.com> on 07/19/98 03:23:29 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Zenith Carb Adjustment

Hi All!

It's seems that the Series III is running a tad rough these days.  She
idles
way too low and when I start 'er up, I get black smoke coming from the
exhaust (not a lot).
I checked the plugs and they're all carboned up, so I suspect that the
mixture is too rich.  I cleaned the plugs and went for a ride around the
block.  I checked them again and sure 'nough, they're all black again.
So now I attempt to adjust the mixture and slow idle, but how.  In the
Haynes manual, thay say to:

1.  screw the mixture control screw right in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns
2.  turn the slow running screw in until it touches the stop, then rotate
one complete turn
3.  bring the engine up to running temp
4.  adjust the mixture screw in the required direction until engine speed
increases and runs smoothly
5.  adjust slow running screw until idling speed is approx. 500rpm

My questions (as they relate to the above steps):

2.  when the screw stops, IT STOPS... it doesn't go any further.  Now what?
4.  what is the REQUIRED DIRECTION?  what does turning left do compared to
turning right?
5.  if you don't have a tach, how do you know when the rpm's are at 500

I know that these may seem rather trivial questions to those that are more
mechanically adept, so please pardon the "newbie-ness".  I would appreciate
any and all comments.

Thanks,
Len

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 08:29:21 +0100
Subject: Re: V8 0-60

I've never timed mine but the military quote just under 30 seconds for
a 2.25l 109", so there's something wrong with the figures somewhere...

The Army figures tend to be pessimistic too.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 12:21:34 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: H4s(90/145)  vs Vision Plus (60/55)

On Fri, 17 Jul 1998, Wolfe, Charles wrote:

> What are your recommendations:  H4s (90/145) or Rover North Hella Vison
> Plus (60/55). Any problems with going with the higher wattage H4s?  I

Well, provided you have the battery and alternator capacity to power
the higher wattage, you will probably wany to install heavier gauge
wires to the headlamps, along with relays using the original wires
as triggers. Add some fuese while you are at it. On the SIII (which
I have) the power to the headlamps is unfused, although the
light horn circuit has a fuse on it.

Not 100% sure about the fuses, but I'm quite sure that you will
get a significant improvement in the voltage to the headlamps
usingr relays and heavier wire. The power measured at the headlamps
on my SIII went from about 10.5 volts to about 12 when I installed
the relay setup.

Also, don't forget the fire hazard from overheating the original,
thin wires.

Terje Krogdahl
Telenor Nextel AS

------------------------------

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