L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea13The springs are sprung, her arse is riz.
2 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l14Re: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED!
3 Leger Marc-Andre [ma.leg11RE: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED!
4 Axel Pawlik [axelpawlik@19Re: "withdraw the stub axle"... hah!
5 "The Becketts" [hillman@29Bangkok
6 Adrian Redmond [channel631Battery maintenance
7 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l20Re: Battery maintenance
8 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema28Re: Greek Peak - lets find each other
9 "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" 29getting dizzy
10 Joseph Broach [mbroach@u19Should I paint a new galvanised frame?
11 NADdMD@aol.com 64Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!
12 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M12Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart mime
13 NADdMD@aol.com 20Re: Freelander to Come to North America!
14 Russ Wilson [rwwilson@mh17Re: Should I paint a new galvanised frame?
15 Leger Marc-Andre [ma.leg9RE: Freelander to Come to North America!
16 Russ Wilson [rwwilson@mh26Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart
17 "Steve Swiger" [steve@sw10Re: Freelander to Come to North America!
18 "Ray Burton" [Ray_Burton8Re: Freelander to Come to North America!
19 "Ray Burton" [Ray_Burton29Re: Freelander to Come to North America!
20 "Chris Dillard" [cdillar18Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart
21 "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa36Land Rover listing to one side
22 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M19Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart
23 John Mill [john@brimax.d50It's a landrover after all
24 JKwas61947@aol.com 14Re: Land Rover listing to one side
25 CIrvin1258@aol.com 28Not just Freelanders...
26 NADdMD@aol.com 15Re: Not just Freelanders...
27 DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com 13RE: Not just Freelanders...
28 "Tackley, John" [jtackle17RE: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz.
29 "Ray Burton" [Ray_Burton34Re: Not just Freelanders...
30 DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com 21Ticking noise coming from D90
31 NADdMD@aol.com 18Re: Not just Freelanders...[multipart mime alternative 6 lines
32 JKwas61947@aol.com 15Re: It's a landrover after all
33 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l12Re: It's a landrover after all
34 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe17Wanted: Smith Oil pressure guage and any Smith guages
35 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe22POR neophyte - again!
36 "Tackley, John" [jtackle36Breather alternative
37 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml19Rovers first journey.
38 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l17Re: Rovers first journey.
39 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml15RE: Rovers first journey - Brake problem solved
40 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml18A Leak of Rovers.
41 CIrvin1258@aol.com 9Re: Not just Freelanders...
42 Stephen Brown [sbrown@ne58Series II for Sale
43 caloccia@senie.com 16Re: Should I paint a new galvanised frame?
44 Kevin Rank [ksrank@erols26A few questions from a newbie
45 "Richard Clarke"[Richard13diffs and unsprung weight
46 Adrian Redmond [channel693Re: A few questions from a newbie
47 James Wolf [J.Wolf@world18springs
48 con & greg [seitl@ns.sym16Re: A Leak of Rovers.
49 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe5Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?
50 SPYDERS@aol.com 19Re: Breather alternative
51 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe18Diconnecting the headlights
52 SPYDERS@aol.com 12Re: Re: A Leak of Rovers.
53 SPYDERS@aol.com 20Re: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?
54 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe12RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.
55 SPYDERS@aol.com 15Re: Re: Breather alternative
56 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns16Re: A Leak of Rovers.
57 "John C. Hinkle" [defend13Freelander and defenders to US
58 "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti13Re: A Leak of Rovers.
59 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns15Re: A Leak of Rovers.
60 NADdMD@aol.com 30Re: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?
61 NADdMD@aol.com 13Re: A Leak of Rovers.
62 Russ Wilson [rwwilson@mh16Re: A Leak of Rovers.
63 Brian Cramer [defender@u26** 1989 RANGE ROVER FOR SALE **
64 "Richard Marsden" [rmars13Re: A Leak of Rovers.
65 "Richard Marsden" [rmars55Re: A few questions from a newbie
66 "Richard Marsden" [rmars35Re: Diconnecting the headlights
67 "Richard Marsden" [rmars27RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.
68 "Richard Marsden" [rmars15Re: Rovers first journey.
69 "Richard Marsden" [rmars55Re: Not just Freelanders...
70 Terje Krogdahl [tekr@nex27RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.
71 Mick Forster [cmtmgf@mai30Re: A few questions from a newbie
72 "LT S. ROCHNA" [rochnas@12Perth


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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:52:00 -0400
Subject: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz.

Fitted the new parabolics tonight. Front rides 1 3/4 inches higher. (19 at
bottom of bumper to 20 3/4) Rear is 2 inches higher (20 at corner off X
member to 22). Sits level, rolls slightly more on corners but feels more in
control, front dips under braking, manhole covers go unnoticed, overall
quality of ride is smoother ,quieter and a short off road excursion felt
like a different vehicle altogether. Longer term report after the weekend.
See them, touch them, feel them at Greek Peak.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 07:50:21 -0400
Subject: Re: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED!

WARNING!

THe Java Scripts to this page are messed up - they've managed to crash IE4
and Netscape 4 on me.

Do yourself a favor - DON'T Go THERE!

          aj"Damn spammers"r

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:13:17 -0400
Subject: RE: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED!

I've had no problem, but I have the most recent version of I.E.
(4.72.2106.8) that came with the latest patches CD and the latest
Netscape just downloaded from their web site. I had some problems with
the IE Java virtual machine previous to this upgrade... some of my Java
on my own web pages would crash my browser...

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From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:17:11 +0100
Subject: Re: "withdraw the stub axle"... hah!

>They aren't a press fit to begin with, so once you break the binding they
tend 
>to work off, then you clean up the shaft w/ a file and some emery cloth.
>The splines on the end of the axle should not be bigger than the I.D. of the 
>stub axle. If they are then something is terribly wrong, or it is not a LR 
>part... 

they were, by maybe 1.5 mm. Just at the outer edge. 
Anyway, a bit of filing worked wonders. 
Now that I could tackle the bearing properly, that
came off, too. Now it's back to cleaning and reassembly.

	cheer, Axel

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:42:29 +1000
Subject: Bangkok

Pat wrote:
>That's probably why they gave you *two* days, one to enjoy yourself,
>and the following one to see they doctor... ;-)

Fortunately I took some gastro stopper with me to BKK.  I was able to fly
back that night without worrying if I'd make the toilet without an
"acccident"

>(My parents just there too, on the way to and coming back from the ruins
>at Angkor in Camodia)

I wanted to see the temples and Grand Palace in BKK.  I'd like to go to
Cambodia but every time my company advertises a job there, I can't convince
my wife to let me apply for it.  I'd be happy to try Vietnam as well -
especially as I *didn't* want to go there back in 1967. 8-)  (I failed the
army medical so I got out of the call-up).

>Ancient Thai Parable: "If man go through airplane door *sideways*,
> chances are, he going to Bangkok!" get it?

It took a couple of reading but, yes.

Ron

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 14:23:35 +0200
Subject: Battery maintenance

So what does the combined wisdom of the list have to say about battery
maintenance? Here's a thread which can run a few days eh?

If I have a spare battery, which has previously been "tired", but which
gives 12 volts without a charge and 13.3 volts after an hour of
charging, but is missing a little fluid - what would everyone recommend?

Top up with distilled water or sulphuric acid? In what amount? Or should
I empty the cells and refill with new acid?

Whats the opinion/experience on the best way to bring a fair battery
back to excellent - and to keep it that way?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:50:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery maintenance

Personally, I rotate my batteries in and out of Mr. C. This way, all of
them get "exercised", so to speak.

On refilling the acid/replacing the acid - I doubt the acid concentration
is a problem. i'd just top it up to the proper level with distilled water
and go with it that way. Getting it into operation for a while will help it
too - lead-acid batteries will sulphate up if left sitting discharged for
too long.

If the battery charges up and then rapidly discharges (over a period of
hours/days), then most likely one of the cells is shorting out and it's
going to go bad sooner rather than later.

                              ajr

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 98 05:57:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Greek Peak - lets find each other

>I think the CB channel is a very good idea and not just in the USA 
;>but possibily in SA as well  or other countries. I am in a very good 
;>position for skip conditions and would find it great. I think the 
;>only problem is that in SA we are limited to channels 19 thu 27. But 
;>I guess that is our problem.

Where I live in Northern California, CB channel 7 is THE standard channel 
for just about all British car convoys.  My Triumph club uses it and the 
Northern California Rover club uses it, the West coast e-mail list uses 
it for outings as well.

A standard channel comes in handy if you are joining a group late.  You 
know which channel to use to atempt contact as you near the area where 
they are supposed to be.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:00:21 -0400
Subject: getting dizzy

>David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> wrote:

>I am in the process of reassembling my engine following the minor overhaul
>-- head, rings, rod bearings, oilpump.  I have everything back together,
>except that I can't fit the dizzy.  It doesn't go down far enough to
>engage the drive.  Obviously, I have done something wrong. 

There is a spacer or adapter that fits between the distributor drive gear
and the dizzy itself.  Look around, it's this steel donut with a keyway
slightly off center.

As for the leftover parts, ignore 'em.  ;-)  I had a bunch left over after
my engine rebuild...obviously unnecessary parts the factory puts in to fool
chaps us!

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Joseph Broach <mbroach@utk.edu>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:50:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Should I paint a new galvanised frame?

Well, I was all set to paint my new galvanised frame with POR-15, and I
just couldn't do it. I wonder if it would really do that much good. I mean,
before painting, one has to etch it with a noxious acid solution, and
doesn't that just ruin the galvanising? The cappings, in a better
environment I suppose, have withstood 30+ years without rust, whose to say
the frame won't as well? What about just spraying the frame with Waxoyl or
LPSIII every year or so? I guess whatever decision I make is pretty final,
as it will be a while before I want to take the body off again! Thanks fro
you suggestions.

-joseph
knoxville, tn
'67 IIa 88 ...almost there...

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:50:41 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!

Can you believe this?

Nate

--part0_900600642_boundary
Content-ID: <0_900600642@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Freelander to Come to North America!

All New Land Rover to Be Available in Early 2001

 LANHAM, Md., July 16 /PRNewswire/ -- Despite previous reports to the
contrary, it was announced today by Dr. Walter Hasselkus, Rover Group Chairman
and Chief Executive, that the enthusiastically received new Land Rover
Freelander will be available in North America beginning in calendar year 2001.

Speaking about the announcement, Dr. Hasselkus said, "The timing is right for
Freelander to enter the American market.  Freelander has already taken the 4x4
market by storm and we are now ready to introduce this new Land Rover to a
broader public."

Charles R. Hughes, President, Land Rover North America, Inc., said,  "This is
extremely exciting news.  Countless people on both sides of the Atlantic have
worked long and hard to make Freelander a feasible business proposition for
the North American market.  The launch of Freelander is another stride in
LRNA's expansion and will add new energy and excitement to our business.
Freelander has a character all its own and will attract a large array of
buyers, some new to the brand, some already in our stable.  This is truly
great news."

The North American Freelander will be available only as a five-door model and
will be revised and updated to meet numerous U.S. safety regulations - and the
demands and tastes of the North American sport-utility segment. Freelander is
a tough and rugged Land Rover that is the featured vehicle in the 1998 Camel
Trophy Adventure, to be held this August in Chile and Argentina.

Land Rover North America, Inc., is a member of the Rover Group, importing Land
Rover vehicles manufactured in Solihull, England.  The Rover Group is a
wholly-owned subsidiary of the BMW Group, Munich, Germany.

SOURCE  Land Rover North America  

CO:  Land Rover North America; Rover Group; BMW Group

ST:  Maryland

IN:  AUT

SU:  PDT

07/16/98 10:42 EDT http://www.prnewswire.com

To edit your profile, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:NewsProfiles">
NewsProfiles</A>.
For all of today's news, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:News">News</A>.

--part0_900600642_boundary--

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:56:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!	        [multipart mime 
alternative

>Freelander to Come to North America!

Point is though Nate,do you *want* it?

Mike Rooth

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:09:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America!

In a message dated 7/16/98 10:58:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk writes:

<< Point is though Nate,do you *want* it?
  >>
Personally...No.

However, it would be nice to see Land Rover compete effectively against T*yota
RAV4, S*zuki Sidekick, and K*a Sportage in the co-ed and teeny-bopper American
market.

It helps support the continued production of Series spare parts. ;o)

Nate

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:14:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Should I paint a new galvanised frame?

>Well, I was all set to paint my new galvanised frame with POR-15, and I
>just couldn't do it.
What I have seen done, if you are concerned with cosmetics,  is to just
paint your rear crossmember. Go to your local sporting goods store and buy
"Camoflage paint" for Alum boats.  It's used by duck hunters to paint their
boats and sticks to Alum.

Good luck

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:24:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Freelander to Come to North America!

If Land Rover North America does well, we all win !

Let's have a vote... I vote go for it !

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:24:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!	        [multipart

>>Freelander to Come to North America!
>Point is though Nate,do you *want* it?

None for me. Thank you very much.  I think that the Freelander is a fine
vehicle for certain segments of the population...mothers, high-school
girls, people who need Viagra, etc. A fine vehicle for folks that want a
tiny step upfrom their Rav 4 or their GEO. What makes me sick is how they
are trying to pass it off as a rugged off-road vehicle by using it in the
CT.  Did everyone see the pictures in the latest LRO???  The phrase "You
cant' make chicken salad from chicken shit" kept coming to mind.  Oh well,
I guess it's "cources for horses" and the CT will be tailored to make the
Freelander look good zipping around from the mountain bike race to the
bridge competition (bridge as in cards that is....)

Happy with my truck made when LR had more concern with mfg than marketing....

in the words of Dennis Miller, That's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

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From: "Steve Swiger" <steve@swiger.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:24:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America!

Anyone want to speculate on how successful the Freelander will be in the
Camel Trophy this year?  That's a pretty bold move...

Steve and Moose (III 88 SW)

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From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:35:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America!

When has LRNA ever been concerned about selling vehicles to anyone but the
stinking rich!!!

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed;  ]
From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:38:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America!
Content-Disposition: inline

According to the Camel Trophy '98 team member I met at the LRNA Open House
on June 27th,  Camel Trophy '98 will not bew challenging for the vehicles.
It will be more team tasks rather than driving challenges.

                                                                  
 (Embedded                                                        
 image moved   "Steve Swiger" <steve@swiger.com>                  
 to file:      07/16/98 11:24 AM                                  
 pic17666.pcx)                                                    
                                                                  

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Ray Burton/VEN/USAIR)
Subject:  Re: Freelander to Come to North America!

Anyone want to speculate on how successful the Freelander will be in the
Camel Trophy this year?  That's a pretty bold move...

Steve and Moose (III 88 SW)

--0__=No8k5ev2nI5HzeQciXsiSwBydk6Nvf7NiEszxDjDrOj4PZMFQgAVO2xY

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:41:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!	 [multipart

Very well said Russ  and ditto!!

It's hard to imagine a "REAL" Camel Trophy with the Freelander. It's kind
of like well.... nevermind!!

Cheers,

Christopher Dillard
Database Administrator        Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA             www.bi-lo.com

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:44:58 -0700
Subject: Land Rover listing to one side

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>

>>Marin Faure wrote:
>>A certain degree of side-to-side list is acceptable in a Series Land
Rover.  The Land Rovers sold in the UK were set up with a higher spring
camber on the driver's (right) side to compensate for the fact that the
driver, the battery, and the gas tank were all on one side (I don't know
if this applied to Model 109s, but it did to Model 88s).  Left-hand
drive Land Rovers have no need of this compensation as the driver is on
the opposite side from the battery and fuel tank

>Don't forget the significant extra weight of the transfer case and the
diffs.

The differentials are on the axles which is unsprung weight, so they
would not affect the amount of body lean.  As for the transfer case,
it's weight seems to be pretty much centered, so I doubt it would
contribute too much to the tendency of the vehicle to lean to the right.
It is my understanding that the Land Rover parts suppliers in the US
don't even bother to stock the higher-camber right-hand spring sets as
they are unnecessary on a left-hand drive vehicle.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:02:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America!   [multipart

>Very well said Russ  and ditto!!
>It's hard to imagine a "REAL" Camel Trophy with the Freelander. It's kind
>of like well.... nevermind!!

Agreed.I looked at the pics of the CT Freebie and thought"In any sort
of hard going,those roof lights wont last long,in that nice pretty
pod thing". And as for a *demountable* winch...there you are,up to
your ears in muck and bullets,stuck,sinking fast"Oh I say Charles/Justin/
Robert/whatever,just go round the back and fetch the winch,there's a
good chap......" "No I *cant* do it myself,dear boy,I'll get my nice
new trainers all *muddy*".
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: John Mill <john@brimax.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:09:12 +0100
Subject: It's a landrover after all

Since I started subscribing to the list several weeks back I have gained
much enjoyment and information from reading the mails that pass between
you all following a request for information.

Anyway to introduce myself. My name is John Mill. I live in the New
Forest which is in the South of England although I am originally from
Scotland. I have a 5 year old Range Rover which I use a my day to day
work transport. I'm a contract computer consultant so my mileage varies
from 30 to 1000 miles a week. hence the fact that I do not use my Series
III 109 for work.
Willing to work anywhere as my plan to win the lottery has not come off
yet. I'm starting a contract next week in Holland. 

Varied selection of cars of the last 20 years with the distinct
advantage of most of them having been company cars - no need to get your
hands dirty.
Weekends the RR sits in the drive and I use the 109. No offroad as yet
athough I do use it to collect wood and did once tow some foreign make
out of the the forest.

However I did wonder if I was driving the same sort of vehicle as you
all as 

1 - No oil ponds on the drive
2 - its a 109 but sits even (no apparent list in any direction)

Anyway with all this I must admit to developing a certain smugness but
have wondered about the vehicles pedigree.

Anyway it definetly is a landrover 'cause today I spotted a pool of
brakefluid by the front nearside wheel.

Plus side is I now have a good reason to take the Rangie to Billings.
Pity I will say to myself as I turn up the air-con and stereo etc  - I
really wanted to drive the 150 miles in the 109.....

So thanks in advance for all the info on doing brakes. I shall reread
and then fix.

-- 
John Mill
S plate 109 (Weekend toy)
M plate RR Vogue SE (Go to work toy)
 

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From: JKwas61947@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:20:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Land Rover listing to one side

    Series Land Rovers are supposed to lean to one side (at least I've never
seen one that didn't at least a little).  When I'm asked about the lean, I
tell people that I've got it set up that way for Saturday night races at the
local dirt track...

John Kwasnik
Sherburne NY
72 sIII 88

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:28:58 EDT
Subject: Not just Freelanders...

I tried emailing a friend of mine Tuesday (it was bounced back to me), about a
trip I made to a local Land Rover dealership, and THIS is the news they gave
me...

1. Freelander will be here by 2001

2. Defender will be back by the same date

3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130
form!

4. Engine options are still up in the air, but they (the folks at LRNA)
believe that the Tdi will finally get here, since enough people have
complained about not having it as an option.

5. There's still talk about Rover bringing their cars back to the U.S. - but
this is, as far as anybody knows, still un-decided.

I originally emailed this to somebody privately, because I didn't want to
start rumors. But, it looks like the info was accurate afterall.

Charles

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:34:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...

In a message dated 7/16/98 12:32:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
CIrvin1258@aol.com writes:

<< 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130
 form!
  >>
Wahoo!  I'd love to get my hands on a 110 (for less than 40K)

Nate

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:40:33 -0400
Subject: RE: Not just Freelanders...

A 110?  Dream big!  I'm shooting for a 300Tdi 130!
If it does become available, I'll be trading in my D90 without a second
thought.

Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:41:37 -0400
Subject: RE: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz.

>Treavor wrote about the new spring in his Rover's step,

I have heard that new shocks with longer travel should be fitted due to
the increased axle articulation the parabolics provide.  The stock
shocks are at their limit just beyond the axle straps.  Have you
lengthened or removed the straps?  If so, do you intentd to replace the
shocks? What replacement shocks can be used with the parabolics.  (I
guess you could just enjoy the improved ride characteristics and
'never-mind' about improving axle articulation and off-road performance
;-)
See you at the Peak! (I'll bring Alex's old 'you know what' )

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed;  ]
From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:49:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...
Content-Disposition: inline

In your dreams!  You don't expect LRNA to let you have a 110 for 40K, do
you?

                                                                  
 (Embedded                                                        
 image moved   NADdMD@aol.com                                     
 to file:      07/16/98 12:34 PM                                  
 pic03349.pcx)                                                    
                                                                  

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Ray Burton/VEN/USAIR)
Subject:  Re: Not just Freelanders...

In a message dated 7/16/98 12:32:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
CIrvin1258@aol.com writes:

<< 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND
130
 form!
  >>
Wahoo!  I'd love to get my hands on a 110 (for less than 40K)

Nate

--0__=TEiJhxLXS6RUy6N2yqxUqSiFJ5wjdlmyVGYQvPQ9dz3TmknxJSW9yBDV

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From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:49:58 -0400
Subject: Ticking noise coming from D90

I've been hearing a weird "clicking" sound coming from my 90 as I
drive.(It's not really clicking, but I'll be damned if I can reproduce a
sound in sentence form :>)  As the revs increase, so does the frequency at
which it "clicks".  A while back 3 of the exhaust header bolts were loose
and upon tightening them, the sound went away.  Well, that was a year ago,
and the noise is back, yet all of the bolts are tight.  I've heard mention
of a "doughnut" in the exhaust that can deteriorate over time and also cause
this sound. (possibly near the cat-converter)

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Douglas Boehme
dboehme@hq.novacare.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:53:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...[multipart mime alternative 6 lines 
deleted.]

In a message dated 7/16/98 12:50:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Ray_Burton@usairways.com writes:

<< In your dreams!  You don't expect LRNA to let you have a 110 for 40K, do
 you? >>

Not new, not LRNA, but if they come back to NA, then there will be 5 year old
110's in 2006 which are no longer the favored toy of the suburban
elite...kinda like 1987-92 Range Rovers now...(8-14 K)

Nate

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From: JKwas61947@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:01:19 EDT
Subject: Re: It's a landrover after all

John

    Now that you've said that your Rover sits even, and that there are no
pools of oil to be found underneath, I'll bet if you go right out and look
again you'll find that things have changed.
    Our Rovers can read our minds, and they like us to know who's boss!

John Kwasnik
Sherburne NY

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:04:49 -0400
Subject: Re: It's a landrover after all

Re: Not leaking and sitting level:

Why can't Nigel's Disease work in reverse? If it did, now all of our Rovers
would stop leaking and the springs would straighten up...

          aj"I should be so lucky"r

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:22:58 -0500
Subject: Wanted: Smith Oil pressure guage and any Smith guages

ANybody have any smith Oilpressure guages (mechanical)?  I really could
use one.  I am also interested in good tachometer for rover.

Unfortuanately, I will not be able to attend Greek Peak.  I spent my
formulative years bombing down those hills and talking about girls on
the way up the chairlift.  Wish I could make it.

If anyone finds some good guages there, oil pressure, circular ampmeter,
or tachometer, I would be interested.  Thanks

Cwolfe

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:28:36 -0500
Subject: POR neophyte - again!

I order 4 quarts of POR15 and 1 can of the etching spray.

They tell me it won't stick to anything except rust or something that
has been etched with their spray.  My frame has some rust but still has
a lot of good spots with rustuleum black paint in good condition.  Do I
have to spray etch everything that is not surface rusted?  I have mixed
feelings about spraying acid on a surface that looks good.

Same question:  I have a rebuilt frame, never used, now rolling awaiting
the body.  It has mint chassis black paint on it.  I am considering
painting  it with POR15 before putting it back together.  Do I have to
etch thsi great mint paint job before Doing the POR15 thing?  Should I
not do the POR15 thing until it has seen 5 or so Minnesota winters?

Thanks
Cwolfe

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:36:00 -0400
Subject: Breather alternative

Was looking thru Summit's Racing equip. catalog (800-230-3030) and came
across the following:

Aluminum Differential Vent:
...hexagonal aluminum diff. vents have a pipe-threaded stem and install
into diff. or other gear housings to provide ventilation; brushed or
polished aluminum finish.

p/n SUM-E730310  3/4" hex head, 1/8"NPT, brushed............each $9.99
p/n SUM-E730311  3/4" hex head, 1/8"NPT, polished............each $9.99

The picture indicates a vent hole on each of the 6 bevels of the hex
faces. They appear much more robust and would seem to provide more
pressure relief than the stock ones.  Can't tell if they have the check
ball to prevent water intake though.

And if Bill Leacock says they will fit the 1/8"BSP threads in the rover
diffs, I believe him!  Think I'll order up one or three, my OD could
sure use some relief, too. (though I could use one of the old axle
breathers (one is still OK) on the OD and save 10 bucks) ...hhmmm

There's also a nice selection of gauges from Summit, AutoMeter, AutoGage
and VDO (for the non-purists) at good prices, including a VDO 2-1/16"
Clock that would fit that blank third hole in the dash
panel....hhmmmm........

...do I really wanna know how long it takes to get to Greek Peak, or how
long my feet have been baking, in my SIII ?   

nahhhhh.

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:51:26 -0700
Subject: Rovers first journey.

Well, I'm happy to report that my '61 88 has made it's first real
journey in seven years!  I drove it in to work this morning (about 17
km).  No problems at all, just a little slow on the hills.  Re-bushing
the carburetor should help that, I hope.   It's now parked outside my
office, beside Sussex's '69 88, with a healthy little pool of oil
underneath :-)

One point of interest:  I haven't bolted down the floor boards yet, so
at about 60 km/h, they start to float...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:55:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Rovers first journey.

CONGRATULATIONS,  PAUL!

Bravo!

It's great to see another join the throng of Rovers.

BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a leak?

A leak of Rovers - I like it......8*)

          aj"Or is it a leek of Welsh Rovers?"r

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:02:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Rovers first journey - Brake problem solved

	Nate asks: Congrats on getting back on the road.  What was the
outcome with the brake
problem?  Any solutions?  

I had the brakes fixed at a shop down town.  Apparently there is a fluid
return valve of some sort in the CB type master cylinder.  It seems that
this was faulty (new cylinder).  An $8 rebuild kit and all was well.  I
had the brakes thoroughly cleaned and adjusted while there.  It has a
nice firm pedal now :-)

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:10:38 -0700
Subject: A Leak of Rovers.

	Alan writes: "BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a
leak?"

A leak of Rovers - I love it!

Here's a picture of a leak of Rovers - Sussex's & mine taken not 10
minutes ago, July 17th 1998.  Title picture of my web page.  Text will
be updated soon...

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

Paul in Victoria. 

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:20:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...

I myself, would be very happy (albeit a bit poor) with a 110 Tdi.

Charles

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From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@ner.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 18:05:48 GMT
Subject: Series II for Sale

Hi all,

I live in central Vermont (between WRJ and Montpelier) and have a 1960
Series II (not a IIa) 88 inch wheelbase Landrover with a hard top for
sale. It is a New Mexico truck with great integrity (the only rust to
speak of is on the door tops), in fact you can still read the serial
number on the frame. I've waxoyled it since I moved to New England. It
is always in the garage when not being used. It is driven fairly
often. The odometer says about 90,000 and based on what I know, I
believe it to be true. I put on new leaf springs and new front seats
(offical landrover parts). I put in seat belts for safety's sake in
front and back and added a right fender rear-view mirror. My friend
helped me weld up a sturdy roof rack. I have put in a new Weber
carburetor and electric fuel pump with pressure regulator -- both
required after an extreme bout with bad (dirty) gas from %$%^%^, and
have switched it to negative ground and put in a GM alternator to
replace the failed generator. The tires are pretty good Cooper's, tall
and skinny 16 inch radials. It has locking hubs on the front. I've
replaced several oil seals and the propeller shaft U-joints. I put in
a new gas tank and the related filler hoses, since the old one leaked
badly. It has a VW bug horn. The heater is the little round Smith's
shin roaster. Everything (what little it has) works. I have replaced
the series II thermostat housing and thermostat with the series IIa
variety, since the old thermostats are so hard to come by. Other than
the few "necessary" upgrades, it is pretty original. I have a complete
record of its previous owners and all the work I've done on it plus
the owner's and shop manuals and many parts catalogs. It even holds a
bit of history: there is a bullet wedged in the tailgate from a
long-ago domestic dispute in Albuquerque (I wasn't involved). Oh yea,
I have a tow bar for it (I've never used it though!).

If you have web access, you can see a picture of it (and, as an extra
bonus, me on my 1950 Farmall tractor!) at my friend's web site in
Perth, Australia (I'll explain how the photo got there another time).

http://www.ned.dem.csiro.au/unrestricted/people/CoxSimon/gallery/srbtract.jpg
 
I'm forced to sell it because I've changed jobs and now I must commute
quite far (about 80 miles round trip) each day. There is undoubtedly
more work to be done toward resoration (for example the exhaust system
is in dire need of repair), but it is a good runner as is. 

$3500.00 or best reasonable offer.

Email me if you're interested.

Thanks,

Stephen Brown
Brookfield, Vermont

browns@sover.net

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From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 16 Jul 1998 20:23:04 -0000
Subject: Re:  Should I paint a new galvanised frame?

Why paint your frame ?

	'cause it is a series IIa, and thats what it ought to look like.

Mine is painted with PPG's epoxy primer, then chassis black. Should
stick as long as there is steel to hold on to.

	-B

	http://Land-Rover.Team.Net/Repairs/frame-over/

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From: Kevin Rank <ksrank@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:25:08 -0400
Subject: A few questions from a newbie

Hi all -

After seeing some Series L-Rs at a British meet, I've gotten the bug.
I'm just starting to do some research, and have some questions.

1-  I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III.  I may
be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer,
i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it?  I understand Series Rovers
aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible.  The thought
of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think.

2-  In perusing some for sale ads, I've seen a few vehicles that have
been converted to other engines, namely a fair number of Chevy inline
(?) sixes.  I'd prefer to keep the original engine, however, is it
possible to drop the famous Rover aluminum V-8 into a Series?  I'm sure
you all are aware it's a popular conversion for an MGB, but I don't know
about a L-R.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:15:04 +1000
Subject: diffs and unsprung weight

     Richard Writes:*Don't forget the significant extra weight of the
transfer case and the
     diffs.
The diffs are actually unsprung weight.  (their weight sits directly on
the wheels, not on the springs)
Paul in Victoria
  * 'oops' - you're quite right - my mistake

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 00:43:12 +0200
Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie

"Series Land Rovers are not too long on power?"

I guess that this is a moot point, depending on whether you have a
Series III or a 300TDI D90. It also depends on your definition of power.

A series land  rover is slow to accelerate in "normal driving
conditions" (compared with a disco or a jap. saloon. It's torque,
compared with a V8 or a TDi, or even a Chieftain tank is low.

But don't let benchmarks and motortrade specs deceive you. The land
Rover was, is, and always has been a workhorse.

I have driven series rovers for 15 years, during which time I have
pulled horse-boxes, trailers, and heavy loads in the tub. I have dragged
other land rovers, cars, uni-mogs and even a lorry out of mud and snow,
and I have felled/uprooted a few trees with these noisy, draughty, rusty
beasts.

The choice for you is just as much a matter of personal taste as can be.
If you want maximum power (torque) and fast motorway driving with a
trailer full of shires, then a V8 or TDi may be the right choice.

If you want simplicity, reliability, and an engine which you can repair
yourself with the minimum of tools and bother, then a Series 2.25 Diesel
is for you.

Petrol is also OK, depending on where you live (fuel price/emmission
regs) - IMHO diesel is better, and more reliable. Every petrol series
owner i know spends months trying to get the carbs to perform properly,
and stay that way... (but I am sure others will contradict me)

If you go for series, and if you go for diesel, there are three options
-
the stock 2.25 liter 3 bearing diesel (I have three of these)

the stronger 2.25 liter 5 bearing diesel (I am told they are stronger,
but I have yet to try one or have the need to try one, so i cannot
comment)

the newer 2.5 (or is it 2.6) liter 5 bearing diesel (there seem to be
many of these on the market for around the £2,500 mark - I am
considering putting one in my 109".

The choice of wheelbase is also important.

If you want space, then the 109 is good, but it is a little more
sluggish on the 2.25 liter motor. In countries where the maximum towable
load is calculated on the basis of towing vehicle weight - the 109
theoretically permits a heavier trailer. In countries where the max.
towable load is calculated on the basis of car plus trailer max X Kgs,
then the 88 gives a bigger load. here in denmark the vehicle weight
determines the max tow - trailer and its load must not exceed 50% of tow
vehicle unladen weight (which argues for the 109") whilst the drivers
license allows up to 3500 Kg for total vehicle and tow, which favours
the 88".

Whilst not advocating such parctices, I guess that most series owners
have contravened one or both of these clauses at some time or other.

But don't ask me - I'm biased - a confirmed Series III afficionado - the
88" SIII Diesel would be my choice - all the power of a landy, still a
small truck and easy to park and manouver, good and nippy in terraen and
bad weather conditions, easy to repair and lasts forever.

And about leaks, and bad fittings - I have to my suprise discovered that
if you actually change many minor parts like complete windscreen wiper
arms and original blades, door seals, hinges, and the like - you
actually solve 90% of the problems associated with these old cars. The
chassis might last forever, with the help of a little paint, and the
motor might run a million miles given a few gaskets, rings and rebores,
but the body furniture wears out and replacing it, combined with a lick
of paint and a cup of furniture polish actually gives you the feel of
having a new car, for a lot less than the cost of a disco. But then it's
still a series....

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:00:34
Subject: springs

>Fitted the new parabolics tonight. Front rides 1 3/4 inches higher. (19 at
>bottom of bumper to 20 3/4) Rear is 2 inches higher (20 at corner off X
>member to 22). Sits level, rolls slightly more on corners but feels more in
>control, front dips under braking, manhole covers go unnoticed, overall
>quality of ride is smoother ,quieter and a short off road excursion felt
>like a different vehicle altogether. Longer term report after the weekend.
>See them, touch them, feel them at Greek Peak.

OK,OK, so where did they come from and how much were they? I have a 109
petrol, does this one take different front springs? 

Jim Wolf

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From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:31:26 -0700
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

>         Alan writes: "BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a
> leak?"
> A leak of Rovers - I love it!.

 Yes! Great! You could have big leaks and little leaks. Sort of reminds 
me ( I don't know why....) of the old adage.." What do you call a 
boomerang that doesn't come back? "

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:32:29 -0500
Subject: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:35:36 EDT
Subject: Re:  Breather alternative

In a message dated 7/16/98 1:39:12 PM, you wrote:

<<There's also a nice selection of gauges from Summit, AutoMeter, AutoGage
and VDO (for the non-purists) at good prices, including a VDO 2-1/16"
Clock that would fit that blank third hole in the dash
panel....hhmmmm........

...do I really wanna know how long it takes to get to Greek Peak, or how
long my feet have been baking, in my SIII ? >>

No, but you could use it to guage performance by measuring acceleration... ;-)

--pat.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:35:44 -0500
Subject: Diconnecting the headlights

After I pull the engine I am going to replace the wiring harness and put
in halogen headlights.  Prepare for a large barrage of questions.

I cannot find out how to disconnect the wires from the headlight
assembly.  I cannot find any disconnects on the wires and it doesn't
look like the three prong connector at the end of the wire is suppose to
disconnect.  

Where do I disconnect the headlights in a SII?

Thanks
cwolfe

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:38:23 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: A Leak of Rovers.

In a message dated 7/16/98 9:34:29 PM, you wrote:

<<" What do you call a 
boomerang that doesn't come back? ">>

stick?

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:42:00 EDT
Subject: Re:  Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?

In a message dated 7/16/98 9:36:47 PM, you wrote:

<<OK>  I'm ready

Fenders, Apron radiator off.  Oil drained, floors out, choke and
throttle linkage and heater hoses disconnected.  Distrubutor and leads
out.  I am ready to hoist the engine.

So what is the best way to hoist it?  Where should I anchor my chains or
wrap the chains?  Never done this before.>>

Rovers North sells an anti-gravity mat, STC1890N, which when placed below the
engine, greatly diminishes the effort needed to pull it up and out.... They
may be on Summer Special in July...

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:41:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.

I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question.  I
removed the plug from the headlight bulb.  But I want to remove the
headlight assembly.  I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the
assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring
harness.  So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring
harness.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:44:12 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re:  Breather alternative

Oh so sorry, forgot to change the Subject line on that last posting...

As atonement, I'll just suggest getting some D-90 breathers, they fit and you
can run the leads from axle to roof if you want.

I've seen the *Hex-Head-Bolt-Breathers* and I wouldn't cross a puddle with
them... if they are the same as Summit's part.

--pat.

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:00:16 -0700
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> <<" What do you call a
> boomerang that doesn't come back? ">>
> stick?
>.Very good Pat.....Mama never dropped you did she? ;-)

  So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak and sits level?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:05:46 -0500
Subject: Freelander and defenders to US

If they bring defenders into the US in 2001, they won't look like they do
now.
They will have front and side airbags. Probably unibody construction and the
bumpers will be plastic and rounded, sort of like a Lexus. And a 300 Tdi
engine, I doubt it - probably a BMW diesel.  Still want one?

Chris Hinkle

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:04:24 -0500
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

>>>>> "Con" == Con P Seitl <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> writes:

    Con>   So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak
    Con> and sits level?

Bone dry and on two flat tyres?
					-MM

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:13:19 -0700
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

"Mr. Mike" Passaretti wrote:
> Bone dry and on two flat tyres?
>                                        . Impressive. We've got a crowd 
building now. This ones a little harder. 

What magazine am I looking at?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:20:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine?

In a message dated 7/16/98 9:36:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CWolfe@smdc.org
writes:

<< OK>  I'm ready
 
 Fenders, Apron radiator off.  Oil drained, floors out, choke and
 throttle linkage and heater hoses disconnected.  Distrubutor and leads
 out.  I am ready to hoist the engine.
 
 So what is the best way to hoist it?  Where should I anchor my chains or
 wrap the chains?  Never done this before.   >>

Hi Charles,

On most 2.25 engines I've seen there is a plate bolted to the front and back
of the head with a slot in it.  Use this with either a lifting sling or else
bolt the chain to them--use hardened bolts.  Lift slowly so that if necessary
you can lower it again and adjust the leverage of the lift.  BTW, check for
grounding straps from the starter to the chassis and from the battery box to
the block

Good luck

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:22:31 EDT
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

In a message dated 7/16/98 10:02:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
seitl@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

<< So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak and sits level?
  >>

Empty with broken springs?

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:01:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

>"Mr. Mike" Passaretti wrote:
>> Bone dry and on two flat tyres?
>>                                        . Impressive. We've got a crowd
>>building now. This ones a little harder.
>What magazine am I looking at?

LRO or Playboy.  I'm stuck with the LRO myself.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

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From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 01:44:29 -0400
Subject: ** 1989 RANGE ROVER FOR SALE **

***1989 RANGE ROVER FOR SALE***

White with Sorrell beige leather, excellent condition inside and out, never
off road, new tires around, 103k miles, no leaks, brushbar, lamp guards, CD
changer, rust free upper tailgate, sunroof. Email for photos. I'd like to
sell this truck by months end. 

Cheers,

Brian Cramer

'94 D90 (#1251)									
(888)434-4678 office
'90 RR County									
	(609)665-4451 office fax
'70 IIa Lightweight								
	(609)273-9708 home
'89 Range Rover (For Sale: $8,995 OBO)			(609)458-6671 cellular
'60 II SWB (soon)								
	ICQ #5696173	

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:24:01 +0100
Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers.

Last time collective nouns came up, I think "Leak" and "Lurch" came out the
favourites.

There's also "convoy" but that's boring (unless in camo, and with the right
convoy flags!)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:28:35 +0100
Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie

Yeah, no problem. The engine is relatively low power, but the petrol engine
is unsual in its low-end grunt spec (almost like a diesel, but not quite
so).
Also, you have the transfer case. Even in "High", its lower than a normal
car.

To give you an idea, my truck is meant to be "3/4 tonne" - ie. payload. The
army regularly towed
3/4 tonne trailers behind it as well.

The Paras are usually blamed for reports of towing 105mm guns behind
3/4tonne 109"s...
(eventually knackers the rear cross-member).  There's also 1 tonne variant.
I have "1tonne steering" on mine (lower gearing).

The V8 conversion became so popular that during the '70s Rover did it
themselves, prodcuing the "Stage I". This replaced the 6cyl option.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
PS: "FFR" = Fitted For Radio - ie a 24v Radio Wagon

Kevin Rank <ksrank@erols.com> on 07/16/98 10:25:08 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  A few questions from a newbie

Hi all -

After seeing some Series L-Rs at a British meet, I've gotten the bug.
I'm just starting to do some research, and have some questions.

1-  I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III.  I may
be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer,
i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it?  I understand Series Rovers
aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible.  The thought
of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think.

2-  In perusing some for sale ads, I've seen a few vehicles that have
been converted to other engines, namely a fair number of Chevy inline
(?) sixes.  I'd prefer to keep the original engine, however, is it
possible to drop the famous Rover aluminum V-8 into a Series?  I'm sure
you all are aware it's a popular conversion for an MGB, but I don't know
about a L-R.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:32:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Diconnecting the headlights

When I fitted halogens, I had to change the "socket" - ie. had to cut the
wires.

I've since seen an FFR with 3-pin sockets like my halogens take. Hmmm, I
guess HM Army never
kept everything entirely standardised.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

"Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> on 07/17/98 02:35:44 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Diconnecting the headlights

After I pull the engine I am going to replace the wiring harness and put
in halogen headlights.  Prepare for a large barrage of questions.

I cannot find out how to disconnect the wires from the headlight
assembly.  I cannot find any disconnects on the wires and it doesn't
look like the three prong connector at the end of the wire is suppose to
disconnect.

Where do I disconnect the headlights in a SII?

Thanks
cwolfe

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:34:18 +0100
Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.

I can't remember if my pulled through, but as I said in my previous email,
I had to cut the wires anyway.

Halogens are a really upgrade, btw - well recommended.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

"Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> on 07/17/98 02:41:27 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.

I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question.  I
removed the plug from the headlight bulb.  But I want to remove the
headlight assembly.  I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the
assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring
harness.  So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring
harness.

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:38:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Rovers first journey.

 >One point of interest:  I haven't bolted down the floor boards yet, so
 >at about 60 km/h, they start to float...

Hmmm, perhaps I have too much underseal on mine...

Currently half-bolted down, but I'm sure I've been at 60mph with them
unbolted.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:43:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...

I'm sure there's quite a market for the 110 and 130 in the US, but hold on
guys!
If the Defender hasn't been replaced by 2001, it will be shortly
afterwards.

The curvy shaped thing in all the mags - probably not like that. When I
first saw it, I thought it was an April's Fools by the magazine in
question. Its been in rather a lot of other magazines, so perhaps it
isn't. But  then, Land Rover celebrated their anniversary in April. Perhaps
it was an April Fool's pulled by Land Rover - and the motoring press took
it hook, line, and sinker?

Anyway, who cares by 2001? I'll be back in the UK by then...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)   - and still waiting on the Visa...

CIrvin1258@aol.com on 07/16/98 05:28:58 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Not just Freelanders...

I tried emailing a friend of mine Tuesday (it was bounced back to me),
about a
trip I made to a local Land Rover dealership, and THIS is the news they
gave
me...

1. Freelander will be here by 2001

2. Defender will be back by the same date

3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130
form!

4. Engine options are still up in the air, but they (the folks at LRNA)
believe that the Tdi will finally get here, since enough people have
complained about not having it as an option.

5. There's still talk about Rover bringing their cars back to the U.S. -
but
this is, as far as anybody knows, still un-decided.

I originally emailed this to somebody privately, because I didn't want to
start rumors. But, it looks like the info was accurate afterall.

Charles

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 10:44:59 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question.

On Thu, 16 Jul 1998, Wolfe, Charles wrote:

> I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question.  I
> removed the plug from the headlight bulb.  But I want to remove the
> headlight assembly.  I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the
> assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring
> harness.  So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring
> harness.

I've never taken a II or IIa apart, but I guess it's more or less the same
as on the SIII. There are bullet connectors, either inside the radiator panel,
or on the right hand side of the panel. Disconnect there, pull the wires
out through the wings, and finally out through the headlight assemblies
themselves. That is, out of the hole where the headlight iself fits :-)

Sorry if this is inaccurate, but that's how my SIII is wired.

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 10:31:27 +0100
Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie

Kevin Rank wrote:
 
> 1-  I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III.  I may
> be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer,
> i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it?  I understand Series Rovers
> aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible.  The thought
> of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think.

Off your rocker, maybe not yet, but given time ..........

Have a look at 
http://trent49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/blv55a/blvaq.html
for an example of towing with a Series III.
The journey was from Telford to Stoke-on-Trent, not too far but the
Severn Valley around Iron Bridge slowed us down a bit.

Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/
http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
(Details will appear as time allows)

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From: "LT S. ROCHNA" <rochnas@stennis.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 13:25:37 +0000
Subject: Perth

Just checking again if there are any People familiar with Perth on 
the list.  I'll be there for a few days in a couple weeks and will 
talk Rovers over beer if possible.  It's been months since I've 
smelled 90wt.

Steve

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