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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca> Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:52:00 -0400 Subject: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz. Fitted the new parabolics tonight. Front rides 1 3/4 inches higher. (19 at bottom of bumper to 20 3/4) Rear is 2 inches higher (20 at corner off X member to 22). Sits level, rolls slightly more on corners but feels more in control, front dips under braking, manhole covers go unnoticed, overall quality of ride is smoother ,quieter and a short off road excursion felt like a different vehicle altogether. Longer term report after the weekend. See them, touch them, feel them at Greek Peak. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 07:50:21 -0400 Subject: Re: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED! WARNING! THe Java Scripts to this page are messed up - they've managed to crash IE4 and Netscape 4 on me. Do yourself a favor - DON'T Go THERE! aj"Damn spammers"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:13:17 -0400 Subject: RE: LAND ROVER 88 BLUEPRINT UPLOADED! I've had no problem, but I have the most recent version of I.E. (4.72.2106.8) that came with the latest patches CD and the latest Netscape just downloaded from their web site. I had some problems with the IE Java virtual machine previous to this upgrade... some of my Java on my own web pages would crash my browser... ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:17:11 +0100 Subject: Re: "withdraw the stub axle"... hah! >They aren't a press fit to begin with, so once you break the binding they tend >to work off, then you clean up the shaft w/ a file and some emery cloth. >The splines on the end of the axle should not be bigger than the I.D. of the >stub axle. If they are then something is terribly wrong, or it is not a LR >part... they were, by maybe 1.5 mm. Just at the outer edge. Anyway, a bit of filing worked wonders. Now that I could tackle the bearing properly, that came off, too. Now it's back to cleaning and reassembly. cheer, Axel ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:42:29 +1000 Subject: Bangkok Pat wrote: >That's probably why they gave you *two* days, one to enjoy yourself, >and the following one to see they doctor... ;-) Fortunately I took some gastro stopper with me to BKK. I was able to fly back that night without worrying if I'd make the toilet without an "acccident" >(My parents just there too, on the way to and coming back from the ruins >at Angkor in Camodia) I wanted to see the temples and Grand Palace in BKK. I'd like to go to Cambodia but every time my company advertises a job there, I can't convince my wife to let me apply for it. I'd be happy to try Vietnam as well - especially as I *didn't* want to go there back in 1967. 8-) (I failed the army medical so I got out of the call-up). >Ancient Thai Parable: "If man go through airplane door *sideways*, > chances are, he going to Bangkok!" get it? It took a couple of reading but, yes. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 14:23:35 +0200 Subject: Battery maintenance So what does the combined wisdom of the list have to say about battery maintenance? Here's a thread which can run a few days eh? If I have a spare battery, which has previously been "tired", but which gives 12 volts without a charge and 13.3 volts after an hour of charging, but is missing a little fluid - what would everyone recommend? Top up with distilled water or sulphuric acid? In what amount? Or should I empty the cells and refill with new acid? Whats the opinion/experience on the best way to bring a fair battery back to excellent - and to keep it that way? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:50:28 -0400 Subject: Re: Battery maintenance Personally, I rotate my batteries in and out of Mr. C. This way, all of them get "exercised", so to speak. On refilling the acid/replacing the acid - I doubt the acid concentration is a problem. i'd just top it up to the proper level with distilled water and go with it that way. Getting it into operation for a while will help it too - lead-acid batteries will sulphate up if left sitting discharged for too long. If the battery charges up and then rapidly discharges (over a period of hours/days), then most likely one of the cells is shorting out and it's going to go bad sooner rather than later. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 98 05:57:34 -0700 Subject: Re: Greek Peak - lets find each other >I think the CB channel is a very good idea and not just in the USA ;>but possibily in SA as well or other countries. I am in a very good ;>position for skip conditions and would find it great. I think the ;>only problem is that in SA we are limited to channels 19 thu 27. But ;>I guess that is our problem. Where I live in Northern California, CB channel 7 is THE standard channel for just about all British car convoys. My Triumph club uses it and the Northern California Rover club uses it, the West coast e-mail list uses it for outings as well. A standard channel comes in handy if you are joining a group late. You know which channel to use to atempt contact as you near the area where they are supposed to be. TeriAnn Wakeman The Green Rover, rebuilt and Santa Cruz, California and maintained using parts from twakeman@cruzers.com British Pacific 800-554-4133 http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:00:21 -0400 Subject: getting dizzy >David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> wrote: >I am in the process of reassembling my engine following the minor overhaul >-- head, rings, rod bearings, oilpump. I have everything back together, >except that I can't fit the dizzy. It doesn't go down far enough to >engage the drive. Obviously, I have done something wrong. There is a spacer or adapter that fits between the distributor drive gear and the dizzy itself. Look around, it's this steel donut with a keyway slightly off center. As for the leftover parts, ignore 'em. ;-) I had a bunch left over after my engine rebuild...obviously unnecessary parts the factory puts in to fool chaps us! *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joseph Broach <mbroach@utk.edu> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:50:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Should I paint a new galvanised frame? Well, I was all set to paint my new galvanised frame with POR-15, and I just couldn't do it. I wonder if it would really do that much good. I mean, before painting, one has to etch it with a noxious acid solution, and doesn't that just ruin the galvanising? The cappings, in a better environment I suppose, have withstood 30+ years without rust, whose to say the frame won't as well? What about just spraying the frame with Waxoyl or LPSIII every year or so? I guess whatever decision I make is pretty final, as it will be a while before I want to take the body off again! Thanks fro you suggestions. -joseph knoxville, tn '67 IIa 88 ...almost there... ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:50:41 EDT Subject: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! Can you believe this? Nate --part0_900600642_boundary Content-ID: <0_900600642@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Freelander to Come to North America! All New Land Rover to Be Available in Early 2001 LANHAM, Md., July 16 /PRNewswire/ -- Despite previous reports to the contrary, it was announced today by Dr. Walter Hasselkus, Rover Group Chairman and Chief Executive, that the enthusiastically received new Land Rover Freelander will be available in North America beginning in calendar year 2001. Speaking about the announcement, Dr. Hasselkus said, "The timing is right for Freelander to enter the American market. Freelander has already taken the 4x4 market by storm and we are now ready to introduce this new Land Rover to a broader public." Charles R. Hughes, President, Land Rover North America, Inc., said, "This is extremely exciting news. Countless people on both sides of the Atlantic have worked long and hard to make Freelander a feasible business proposition for the North American market. The launch of Freelander is another stride in LRNA's expansion and will add new energy and excitement to our business. Freelander has a character all its own and will attract a large array of buyers, some new to the brand, some already in our stable. This is truly great news." The North American Freelander will be available only as a five-door model and will be revised and updated to meet numerous U.S. safety regulations - and the demands and tastes of the North American sport-utility segment. Freelander is a tough and rugged Land Rover that is the featured vehicle in the 1998 Camel Trophy Adventure, to be held this August in Chile and Argentina. Land Rover North America, Inc., is a member of the Rover Group, importing Land Rover vehicles manufactured in Solihull, England. The Rover Group is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the BMW Group, Munich, Germany. SOURCE Land Rover North America CO: Land Rover North America; Rover Group; BMW Group ST: Maryland IN: AUT SU: PDT 07/16/98 10:42 EDT http://www.prnewswire.com To edit your profile, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:NewsProfiles"> NewsProfiles</A>. For all of today's news, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:News">News</A>. --part0_900600642_boundary-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:56:14 +0000 Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart mime alternative >Freelander to Come to North America! Point is though Nate,do you *want* it? Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:09:55 EDT Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America! In a message dated 7/16/98 10:58:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk writes: << Point is though Nate,do you *want* it? >> Personally...No. However, it would be nice to see Land Rover compete effectively against T*yota RAV4, S*zuki Sidekick, and K*a Sportage in the co-ed and teeny-bopper American market. It helps support the continued production of Series spare parts. ;o) Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:14:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Should I paint a new galvanised frame? >Well, I was all set to paint my new galvanised frame with POR-15, and I >just couldn't do it. What I have seen done, if you are concerned with cosmetics, is to just paint your rear crossmember. Go to your local sporting goods store and buy "Camoflage paint" for Alum boats. It's used by duck hunters to paint their boats and sticks to Alum. Good luck Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:24:41 -0400 Subject: RE: Freelander to Come to North America! If Land Rover North America does well, we all win ! Let's have a vote... I vote go for it ! ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:24:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart >>Freelander to Come to North America! >Point is though Nate,do you *want* it? None for me. Thank you very much. I think that the Freelander is a fine vehicle for certain segments of the population...mothers, high-school girls, people who need Viagra, etc. A fine vehicle for folks that want a tiny step upfrom their Rav 4 or their GEO. What makes me sick is how they are trying to pass it off as a rugged off-road vehicle by using it in the CT. Did everyone see the pictures in the latest LRO??? The phrase "You cant' make chicken salad from chicken shit" kept coming to mind. Oh well, I guess it's "cources for horses" and the CT will be tailored to make the Freelander look good zipping around from the mountain bike race to the bridge competition (bridge as in cards that is....) Happy with my truck made when LR had more concern with mfg than marketing.... in the words of Dennis Miller, That's just my opinion, I could be wrong. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Steve Swiger" <steve@swiger.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:24:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America! Anyone want to speculate on how successful the Freelander will be in the Camel Trophy this year? That's a pretty bold move... Steve and Moose (III 88 SW) ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:35:53 -0400 Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America! When has LRNA ever been concerned about selling vehicles to anyone but the stinking rich!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ] From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:38:32 -0400 Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America! Content-Disposition: inline According to the Camel Trophy '98 team member I met at the LRNA Open House on June 27th, Camel Trophy '98 will not bew challenging for the vehicles. It will be more team tasks rather than driving challenges. (Embedded image moved "Steve Swiger" <steve@swiger.com> to file: 07/16/98 11:24 AM pic17666.pcx) Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Ray Burton/VEN/USAIR) Subject: Re: Freelander to Come to North America! Anyone want to speculate on how successful the Freelander will be in the Camel Trophy this year? That's a pretty bold move... Steve and Moose (III 88 SW) --0__=No8k5ev2nI5HzeQciXsiSwBydk6Nvf7NiEszxDjDrOj4PZMFQgAVO2xY ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:41:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart Very well said Russ and ditto!! It's hard to imagine a "REAL" Camel Trophy with the Freelander. It's kind of like well.... nevermind!! Cheers, Christopher Dillard Database Administrator Phone: 864-987-8633 BONUSCARD Marketing Fax: 864-675-5456 Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.) E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com Greenville SC USA www.bi-lo.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:44:58 -0700 Subject: Land Rover listing to one side From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG> >>Marin Faure wrote: >>A certain degree of side-to-side list is acceptable in a Series Land Rover. The Land Rovers sold in the UK were set up with a higher spring camber on the driver's (right) side to compensate for the fact that the driver, the battery, and the gas tank were all on one side (I don't know if this applied to Model 109s, but it did to Model 88s). Left-hand drive Land Rovers have no need of this compensation as the driver is on the opposite side from the battery and fuel tank >Don't forget the significant extra weight of the transfer case and the diffs. The differentials are on the axles which is unsprung weight, so they would not affect the amount of body lean. As for the transfer case, it's weight seems to be pretty much centered, so I doubt it would contribute too much to the tendency of the vehicle to lean to the right. It is my understanding that the Land Rover parts suppliers in the US don't even bother to stock the higher-camber right-hand spring sets as they are unnecessary on a left-hand drive vehicle. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:02:00 +0000 Subject: Re: Fwd: Freelander to Come to North America! [multipart >Very well said Russ and ditto!! >It's hard to imagine a "REAL" Camel Trophy with the Freelander. It's kind >of like well.... nevermind!! Agreed.I looked at the pics of the CT Freebie and thought"In any sort of hard going,those roof lights wont last long,in that nice pretty pod thing". And as for a *demountable* winch...there you are,up to your ears in muck and bullets,stuck,sinking fast"Oh I say Charles/Justin/ Robert/whatever,just go round the back and fetch the winch,there's a good chap......" "No I *cant* do it myself,dear boy,I'll get my nice new trainers all *muddy*". Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: John Mill <john@brimax.demon.co.uk> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:09:12 +0100 Subject: It's a landrover after all Since I started subscribing to the list several weeks back I have gained much enjoyment and information from reading the mails that pass between you all following a request for information. Anyway to introduce myself. My name is John Mill. I live in the New Forest which is in the South of England although I am originally from Scotland. I have a 5 year old Range Rover which I use a my day to day work transport. I'm a contract computer consultant so my mileage varies from 30 to 1000 miles a week. hence the fact that I do not use my Series III 109 for work. Willing to work anywhere as my plan to win the lottery has not come off yet. I'm starting a contract next week in Holland. Varied selection of cars of the last 20 years with the distinct advantage of most of them having been company cars - no need to get your hands dirty. Weekends the RR sits in the drive and I use the 109. No offroad as yet athough I do use it to collect wood and did once tow some foreign make out of the the forest. However I did wonder if I was driving the same sort of vehicle as you all as 1 - No oil ponds on the drive 2 - its a 109 but sits even (no apparent list in any direction) Anyway with all this I must admit to developing a certain smugness but have wondered about the vehicles pedigree. Anyway it definetly is a landrover 'cause today I spotted a pool of brakefluid by the front nearside wheel. Plus side is I now have a good reason to take the Rangie to Billings. Pity I will say to myself as I turn up the air-con and stereo etc - I really wanted to drive the 150 miles in the 109..... So thanks in advance for all the info on doing brakes. I shall reread and then fix. -- John Mill S plate 109 (Weekend toy) M plate RR Vogue SE (Go to work toy) ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JKwas61947@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:20:15 EDT Subject: Re: Land Rover listing to one side Series Land Rovers are supposed to lean to one side (at least I've never seen one that didn't at least a little). When I'm asked about the lean, I tell people that I've got it set up that way for Saturday night races at the local dirt track... John Kwasnik Sherburne NY 72 sIII 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:28:58 EDT Subject: Not just Freelanders... I tried emailing a friend of mine Tuesday (it was bounced back to me), about a trip I made to a local Land Rover dealership, and THIS is the news they gave me... 1. Freelander will be here by 2001 2. Defender will be back by the same date 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130 form! 4. Engine options are still up in the air, but they (the folks at LRNA) believe that the Tdi will finally get here, since enough people have complained about not having it as an option. 5. There's still talk about Rover bringing their cars back to the U.S. - but this is, as far as anybody knows, still un-decided. I originally emailed this to somebody privately, because I didn't want to start rumors. But, it looks like the info was accurate afterall. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:34:56 EDT Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders... In a message dated 7/16/98 12:32:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CIrvin1258@aol.com writes: << 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130 form! >> Wahoo! I'd love to get my hands on a 110 (for less than 40K) Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:40:33 -0400 Subject: RE: Not just Freelanders... A 110? Dream big! I'm shooting for a 300Tdi 130! If it does become available, I'll be trading in my D90 without a second thought. Douglas Boehme dboehme@hq.novacare.com '95 Red D90 #2767 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:41:37 -0400 Subject: RE: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz. >Treavor wrote about the new spring in his Rover's step, I have heard that new shocks with longer travel should be fitted due to the increased axle articulation the parabolics provide. The stock shocks are at their limit just beyond the axle straps. Have you lengthened or removed the straps? If so, do you intentd to replace the shocks? What replacement shocks can be used with the parabolics. (I guess you could just enjoy the improved ride characteristics and 'never-mind' about improving axle articulation and off-road performance ;-) See you at the Peak! (I'll bring Alex's old 'you know what' ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ] From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:49:15 -0400 Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders... Content-Disposition: inline In your dreams! You don't expect LRNA to let you have a 110 for 40K, do you? (Embedded image moved NADdMD@aol.com to file: 07/16/98 12:34 PM pic03349.pcx) Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Ray Burton/VEN/USAIR) Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders... In a message dated 7/16/98 12:32:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CIrvin1258@aol.com writes: << 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130 form! >> Wahoo! I'd love to get my hands on a 110 (for less than 40K) Nate --0__=TEiJhxLXS6RUy6N2yqxUqSiFJ5wjdlmyVGYQvPQ9dz3TmknxJSW9yBDV ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:49:58 -0400 Subject: Ticking noise coming from D90 I've been hearing a weird "clicking" sound coming from my 90 as I drive.(It's not really clicking, but I'll be damned if I can reproduce a sound in sentence form :>) As the revs increase, so does the frequency at which it "clicks". A while back 3 of the exhaust header bolts were loose and upon tightening them, the sound went away. Well, that was a year ago, and the noise is back, yet all of the bolts are tight. I've heard mention of a "doughnut" in the exhaust that can deteriorate over time and also cause this sound. (possibly near the cat-converter) Any thoughts? Thanks, Douglas Boehme dboehme@hq.novacare.com '95 Red D90 #2767 ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:53:27 EDT Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders...[multipart mime alternative 6 lines deleted.] In a message dated 7/16/98 12:50:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Ray_Burton@usairways.com writes: << In your dreams! You don't expect LRNA to let you have a 110 for 40K, do you? >> Not new, not LRNA, but if they come back to NA, then there will be 5 year old 110's in 2006 which are no longer the favored toy of the suburban elite...kinda like 1987-92 Range Rovers now...(8-14 K) Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JKwas61947@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:01:19 EDT Subject: Re: It's a landrover after all John Now that you've said that your Rover sits even, and that there are no pools of oil to be found underneath, I'll bet if you go right out and look again you'll find that things have changed. Our Rovers can read our minds, and they like us to know who's boss! John Kwasnik Sherburne NY ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:04:49 -0400 Subject: Re: It's a landrover after all Re: Not leaking and sitting level: Why can't Nigel's Disease work in reverse? If it did, now all of our Rovers would stop leaking and the springs would straighten up... aj"I should be so lucky"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:22:58 -0500 Subject: Wanted: Smith Oil pressure guage and any Smith guages ANybody have any smith Oilpressure guages (mechanical)? I really could use one. I am also interested in good tachometer for rover. Unfortuanately, I will not be able to attend Greek Peak. I spent my formulative years bombing down those hills and talking about girls on the way up the chairlift. Wish I could make it. If anyone finds some good guages there, oil pressure, circular ampmeter, or tachometer, I would be interested. Thanks Cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:28:36 -0500 Subject: POR neophyte - again! I order 4 quarts of POR15 and 1 can of the etching spray. They tell me it won't stick to anything except rust or something that has been etched with their spray. My frame has some rust but still has a lot of good spots with rustuleum black paint in good condition. Do I have to spray etch everything that is not surface rusted? I have mixed feelings about spraying acid on a surface that looks good. Same question: I have a rebuilt frame, never used, now rolling awaiting the body. It has mint chassis black paint on it. I am considering painting it with POR15 before putting it back together. Do I have to etch thsi great mint paint job before Doing the POR15 thing? Should I not do the POR15 thing until it has seen 5 or so Minnesota winters? Thanks Cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:36:00 -0400 Subject: Breather alternative Was looking thru Summit's Racing equip. catalog (800-230-3030) and came across the following: Aluminum Differential Vent: ...hexagonal aluminum diff. vents have a pipe-threaded stem and install into diff. or other gear housings to provide ventilation; brushed or polished aluminum finish. p/n SUM-E730310 3/4" hex head, 1/8"NPT, brushed............each $9.99 p/n SUM-E730311 3/4" hex head, 1/8"NPT, polished............each $9.99 The picture indicates a vent hole on each of the 6 bevels of the hex faces. They appear much more robust and would seem to provide more pressure relief than the stock ones. Can't tell if they have the check ball to prevent water intake though. And if Bill Leacock says they will fit the 1/8"BSP threads in the rover diffs, I believe him! Think I'll order up one or three, my OD could sure use some relief, too. (though I could use one of the old axle breathers (one is still OK) on the OD and save 10 bucks) ...hhmmm There's also a nice selection of gauges from Summit, AutoMeter, AutoGage and VDO (for the non-purists) at good prices, including a VDO 2-1/16" Clock that would fit that blank third hole in the dash panel....hhmmmm........ ...do I really wanna know how long it takes to get to Greek Peak, or how long my feet have been baking, in my SIII ? nahhhhh. ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 10:51:26 -0700 Subject: Rovers first journey. Well, I'm happy to report that my '61 88 has made it's first real journey in seven years! I drove it in to work this morning (about 17 km). No problems at all, just a little slow on the hills. Re-bushing the carburetor should help that, I hope. It's now parked outside my office, beside Sussex's '69 88, with a healthy little pool of oil underneath :-) One point of interest: I haven't bolted down the floor boards yet, so at about 60 km/h, they start to float... Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 13:55:38 -0400 Subject: Re: Rovers first journey. CONGRATULATIONS, PAUL! Bravo! It's great to see another join the throng of Rovers. BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a leak? A leak of Rovers - I like it......8*) aj"Or is it a leek of Welsh Rovers?"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 11:02:55 -0700 Subject: RE: Rovers first journey - Brake problem solved Nate asks: Congrats on getting back on the road. What was the outcome with the brake problem? Any solutions? I had the brakes fixed at a shop down town. Apparently there is a fluid return valve of some sort in the CB type master cylinder. It seems that this was faulty (new cylinder). An $8 rebuild kit and all was well. I had the brakes thoroughly cleaned and adjusted while there. It has a nice firm pedal now :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 12:10:38 -0700 Subject: A Leak of Rovers. Alan writes: "BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a leak?" A leak of Rovers - I love it! Here's a picture of a leak of Rovers - Sussex's & mine taken not 10 minutes ago, July 17th 1998. Title picture of my web page. Text will be updated soon... http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 15:20:31 EDT Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders... I myself, would be very happy (albeit a bit poor) with a 110 Tdi. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@ner.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 18:05:48 GMT Subject: Series II for Sale Hi all, I live in central Vermont (between WRJ and Montpelier) and have a 1960 Series II (not a IIa) 88 inch wheelbase Landrover with a hard top for sale. It is a New Mexico truck with great integrity (the only rust to speak of is on the door tops), in fact you can still read the serial number on the frame. I've waxoyled it since I moved to New England. It is always in the garage when not being used. It is driven fairly often. The odometer says about 90,000 and based on what I know, I believe it to be true. I put on new leaf springs and new front seats (offical landrover parts). I put in seat belts for safety's sake in front and back and added a right fender rear-view mirror. My friend helped me weld up a sturdy roof rack. I have put in a new Weber carburetor and electric fuel pump with pressure regulator -- both required after an extreme bout with bad (dirty) gas from %$%^%^, and have switched it to negative ground and put in a GM alternator to replace the failed generator. The tires are pretty good Cooper's, tall and skinny 16 inch radials. It has locking hubs on the front. I've replaced several oil seals and the propeller shaft U-joints. I put in a new gas tank and the related filler hoses, since the old one leaked badly. It has a VW bug horn. The heater is the little round Smith's shin roaster. Everything (what little it has) works. I have replaced the series II thermostat housing and thermostat with the series IIa variety, since the old thermostats are so hard to come by. Other than the few "necessary" upgrades, it is pretty original. I have a complete record of its previous owners and all the work I've done on it plus the owner's and shop manuals and many parts catalogs. It even holds a bit of history: there is a bullet wedged in the tailgate from a long-ago domestic dispute in Albuquerque (I wasn't involved). Oh yea, I have a tow bar for it (I've never used it though!). If you have web access, you can see a picture of it (and, as an extra bonus, me on my 1950 Farmall tractor!) at my friend's web site in Perth, Australia (I'll explain how the photo got there another time). http://www.ned.dem.csiro.au/unrestricted/people/CoxSimon/gallery/srbtract.jpg I'm forced to sell it because I've changed jobs and now I must commute quite far (about 80 miles round trip) each day. There is undoubtedly more work to be done toward resoration (for example the exhaust system is in dire need of repair), but it is a good runner as is. $3500.00 or best reasonable offer. Email me if you're interested. Thanks, Stephen Brown Brookfield, Vermont browns@sover.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: caloccia@senie.com Date: 16 Jul 1998 20:23:04 -0000 Subject: Re: Should I paint a new galvanised frame? Why paint your frame ? 'cause it is a series IIa, and thats what it ought to look like. Mine is painted with PPG's epoxy primer, then chassis black. Should stick as long as there is steel to hold on to. -B http://Land-Rover.Team.Net/Repairs/frame-over/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kevin Rank <ksrank@erols.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 17:25:08 -0400 Subject: A few questions from a newbie Hi all - After seeing some Series L-Rs at a British meet, I've gotten the bug. I'm just starting to do some research, and have some questions. 1- I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III. I may be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer, i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it? I understand Series Rovers aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible. The thought of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think. 2- In perusing some for sale ads, I've seen a few vehicles that have been converted to other engines, namely a fair number of Chevy inline (?) sixes. I'd prefer to keep the original engine, however, is it possible to drop the famous Rover aluminum V-8 into a Series? I'm sure you all are aware it's a popular conversion for an MGB, but I don't know about a L-R. Thanks in advance. Kevin ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:15:04 +1000 Subject: diffs and unsprung weight Richard Writes:*Don't forget the significant extra weight of the transfer case and the diffs. The diffs are actually unsprung weight. (their weight sits directly on the wheels, not on the springs) Paul in Victoria * 'oops' - you're quite right - my mistake ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 00:43:12 +0200 Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie "Series Land Rovers are not too long on power?" I guess that this is a moot point, depending on whether you have a Series III or a 300TDI D90. It also depends on your definition of power. A series land rover is slow to accelerate in "normal driving conditions" (compared with a disco or a jap. saloon. It's torque, compared with a V8 or a TDi, or even a Chieftain tank is low. But don't let benchmarks and motortrade specs deceive you. The land Rover was, is, and always has been a workhorse. I have driven series rovers for 15 years, during which time I have pulled horse-boxes, trailers, and heavy loads in the tub. I have dragged other land rovers, cars, uni-mogs and even a lorry out of mud and snow, and I have felled/uprooted a few trees with these noisy, draughty, rusty beasts. The choice for you is just as much a matter of personal taste as can be. If you want maximum power (torque) and fast motorway driving with a trailer full of shires, then a V8 or TDi may be the right choice. If you want simplicity, reliability, and an engine which you can repair yourself with the minimum of tools and bother, then a Series 2.25 Diesel is for you. Petrol is also OK, depending on where you live (fuel price/emmission regs) - IMHO diesel is better, and more reliable. Every petrol series owner i know spends months trying to get the carbs to perform properly, and stay that way... (but I am sure others will contradict me) If you go for series, and if you go for diesel, there are three options - the stock 2.25 liter 3 bearing diesel (I have three of these) the stronger 2.25 liter 5 bearing diesel (I am told they are stronger, but I have yet to try one or have the need to try one, so i cannot comment) the newer 2.5 (or is it 2.6) liter 5 bearing diesel (there seem to be many of these on the market for around the £2,500 mark - I am considering putting one in my 109". The choice of wheelbase is also important. If you want space, then the 109 is good, but it is a little more sluggish on the 2.25 liter motor. In countries where the maximum towable load is calculated on the basis of towing vehicle weight - the 109 theoretically permits a heavier trailer. In countries where the max. towable load is calculated on the basis of car plus trailer max X Kgs, then the 88 gives a bigger load. here in denmark the vehicle weight determines the max tow - trailer and its load must not exceed 50% of tow vehicle unladen weight (which argues for the 109") whilst the drivers license allows up to 3500 Kg for total vehicle and tow, which favours the 88". Whilst not advocating such parctices, I guess that most series owners have contravened one or both of these clauses at some time or other. But don't ask me - I'm biased - a confirmed Series III afficionado - the 88" SIII Diesel would be my choice - all the power of a landy, still a small truck and easy to park and manouver, good and nippy in terraen and bad weather conditions, easy to repair and lasts forever. And about leaks, and bad fittings - I have to my suprise discovered that if you actually change many minor parts like complete windscreen wiper arms and original blades, door seals, hinges, and the like - you actually solve 90% of the problems associated with these old cars. The chassis might last forever, with the help of a little paint, and the motor might run a million miles given a few gaskets, rings and rebores, but the body furniture wears out and replacing it, combined with a lick of paint and a cup of furniture polish actually gives you the feel of having a new car, for a lot less than the cost of a disco. But then it's still a series.... Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:00:34 Subject: springs >Fitted the new parabolics tonight. Front rides 1 3/4 inches higher. (19 at >bottom of bumper to 20 3/4) Rear is 2 inches higher (20 at corner off X >member to 22). Sits level, rolls slightly more on corners but feels more in >control, front dips under braking, manhole covers go unnoticed, overall >quality of ride is smoother ,quieter and a short off road excursion felt >like a different vehicle altogether. Longer term report after the weekend. >See them, touch them, feel them at Greek Peak. OK,OK, so where did they come from and how much were they? I have a 109 petrol, does this one take different front springs? Jim Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: con & greg <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:31:26 -0700 Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. > Alan writes: "BTW, What DOES one call a group of Rovers - a > leak?" > A leak of Rovers - I love it!. Yes! Great! You could have big leaks and little leaks. Sort of reminds me ( I don't know why....) of the old adage.." What do you call a boomerang that doesn't come back? " Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:32:29 -0500 Subject: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine? ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:35:36 EDT Subject: Re: Breather alternative In a message dated 7/16/98 1:39:12 PM, you wrote: <<There's also a nice selection of gauges from Summit, AutoMeter, AutoGage and VDO (for the non-purists) at good prices, including a VDO 2-1/16" Clock that would fit that blank third hole in the dash panel....hhmmmm........ ...do I really wanna know how long it takes to get to Greek Peak, or how long my feet have been baking, in my SIII ? >> No, but you could use it to guage performance by measuring acceleration... ;-) --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:35:44 -0500 Subject: Diconnecting the headlights After I pull the engine I am going to replace the wiring harness and put in halogen headlights. Prepare for a large barrage of questions. I cannot find out how to disconnect the wires from the headlight assembly. I cannot find any disconnects on the wires and it doesn't look like the three prong connector at the end of the wire is suppose to disconnect. Where do I disconnect the headlights in a SII? Thanks cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:38:23 EDT Subject: Re: Re: A Leak of Rovers. In a message dated 7/16/98 9:34:29 PM, you wrote: <<" What do you call a boomerang that doesn't come back? ">> stick? ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:42:00 EDT Subject: Re: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine? In a message dated 7/16/98 9:36:47 PM, you wrote: <<OK> I'm ready Fenders, Apron radiator off. Oil drained, floors out, choke and throttle linkage and heater hoses disconnected. Distrubutor and leads out. I am ready to hoist the engine. So what is the best way to hoist it? Where should I anchor my chains or wrap the chains? Never done this before.>> Rovers North sells an anti-gravity mat, STC1890N, which when placed below the engine, greatly diminishes the effort needed to pull it up and out.... They may be on Summer Special in July... ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 20:41:27 -0500 Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question. I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question. I removed the plug from the headlight bulb. But I want to remove the headlight assembly. I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring harness. So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring harness. ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:44:12 EDT Subject: Re: Re: Breather alternative Oh so sorry, forgot to change the Subject line on that last posting... As atonement, I'll just suggest getting some D-90 breathers, they fit and you can run the leads from axle to roof if you want. I've seen the *Hex-Head-Bolt-Breathers* and I wouldn't cross a puddle with them... if they are the same as Summit's part. --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:00:16 -0700 Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. SPYDERS@aol.com wrote: > <<" What do you call a > boomerang that doesn't come back? ">> > stick? >.Very good Pat.....Mama never dropped you did she? ;-) So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak and sits level? Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:05:46 -0500 Subject: Freelander and defenders to US If they bring defenders into the US in 2001, they won't look like they do now. They will have front and side airbags. Probably unibody construction and the bumpers will be plastic and rounded, sort of like a Lexus. And a 300 Tdi engine, I doubt it - probably a BMW diesel. Still want one? Chris Hinkle ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:04:24 -0500 Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. >>>>> "Con" == Con P Seitl <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> writes: Con> So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak Con> and sits level? Bone dry and on two flat tyres? -MM ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 23:13:19 -0700 Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. "Mr. Mike" Passaretti wrote: > Bone dry and on two flat tyres? > . Impressive. We've got a crowd building now. This ones a little harder. What magazine am I looking at? Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:20:55 EDT Subject: Re: Hoisting the engine. Where to wrap chain or connect to engine? In a message dated 7/16/98 9:36:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CWolfe@smdc.org writes: << OK> I'm ready Fenders, Apron radiator off. Oil drained, floors out, choke and throttle linkage and heater hoses disconnected. Distrubutor and leads out. I am ready to hoist the engine. So what is the best way to hoist it? Where should I anchor my chains or wrap the chains? Never done this before. >> Hi Charles, On most 2.25 engines I've seen there is a plate bolted to the front and back of the head with a slot in it. Use this with either a lifting sling or else bolt the chain to them--use hardened bolts. Lift slowly so that if necessary you can lower it again and adjust the leverage of the lift. BTW, check for grounding straps from the starter to the chassis and from the battery box to the block Good luck Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 22:22:31 EDT Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. In a message dated 7/16/98 10:02:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, seitl@ns.sympatico.ca writes: << So now what do you call a Rover that doesn't leak and sits level? >> Empty with broken springs? ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:01:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. >"Mr. Mike" Passaretti wrote: >> Bone dry and on two flat tyres? >> . Impressive. We've got a crowd >>building now. This ones a little harder. >What magazine am I looking at? LRO or Playboy. I'm stuck with the LRO myself. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 01:44:29 -0400 Subject: ** 1989 RANGE ROVER FOR SALE ** ***1989 RANGE ROVER FOR SALE*** White with Sorrell beige leather, excellent condition inside and out, never off road, new tires around, 103k miles, no leaks, brushbar, lamp guards, CD changer, rust free upper tailgate, sunroof. Email for photos. I'd like to sell this truck by months end. Cheers, Brian Cramer '94 D90 (#1251) (888)434-4678 office '90 RR County (609)665-4451 office fax '70 IIa Lightweight (609)273-9708 home '89 Range Rover (For Sale: $8,995 OBO) (609)458-6671 cellular '60 II SWB (soon) ICQ #5696173 ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:24:01 +0100 Subject: Re: A Leak of Rovers. Last time collective nouns came up, I think "Leak" and "Lurch" came out the favourites. There's also "convoy" but that's boring (unless in camo, and with the right convoy flags!) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:28:35 +0100 Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie Yeah, no problem. The engine is relatively low power, but the petrol engine is unsual in its low-end grunt spec (almost like a diesel, but not quite so). Also, you have the transfer case. Even in "High", its lower than a normal car. To give you an idea, my truck is meant to be "3/4 tonne" - ie. payload. The army regularly towed 3/4 tonne trailers behind it as well. The Paras are usually blamed for reports of towing 105mm guns behind 3/4tonne 109"s... (eventually knackers the rear cross-member). There's also 1 tonne variant. I have "1tonne steering" on mine (lower gearing). The V8 conversion became so popular that during the '70s Rover did it themselves, prodcuing the "Stage I". This replaced the 6cyl option. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) PS: "FFR" = Fitted For Radio - ie a 24v Radio Wagon Kevin Rank <ksrank@erols.com> on 07/16/98 10:25:08 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: A few questions from a newbie Hi all - After seeing some Series L-Rs at a British meet, I've gotten the bug. I'm just starting to do some research, and have some questions. 1- I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III. I may be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer, i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it? I understand Series Rovers aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible. The thought of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think. 2- In perusing some for sale ads, I've seen a few vehicles that have been converted to other engines, namely a fair number of Chevy inline (?) sixes. I'd prefer to keep the original engine, however, is it possible to drop the famous Rover aluminum V-8 into a Series? I'm sure you all are aware it's a popular conversion for an MGB, but I don't know about a L-R. Thanks in advance. Kevin ------------------------------[ <- Message 66 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:32:56 +0100 Subject: Re: Diconnecting the headlights When I fitted halogens, I had to change the "socket" - ie. had to cut the wires. I've since seen an FFR with 3-pin sockets like my halogens take. Hmmm, I guess HM Army never kept everything entirely standardised. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> on 07/17/98 02:35:44 AM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Diconnecting the headlights After I pull the engine I am going to replace the wiring harness and put in halogen headlights. Prepare for a large barrage of questions. I cannot find out how to disconnect the wires from the headlight assembly. I cannot find any disconnects on the wires and it doesn't look like the three prong connector at the end of the wire is suppose to disconnect. Where do I disconnect the headlights in a SII? Thanks cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 67 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:34:18 +0100 Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question. I can't remember if my pulled through, but as I said in my previous email, I had to cut the wires anyway. Halogens are a really upgrade, btw - well recommended. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> on 07/17/98 02:41:27 AM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question. I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question. I removed the plug from the headlight bulb. But I want to remove the headlight assembly. I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring harness. So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring harness. ------------------------------[ <- Message 68 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:38:05 +0100 Subject: Re: Rovers first journey. >One point of interest: I haven't bolted down the floor boards yet, so >at about 60 km/h, they start to float... Hmmm, perhaps I have too much underseal on mine... Currently half-bolted down, but I'm sure I've been at 60mph with them unbolted. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 69 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 08:43:20 +0100 Subject: Re: Not just Freelanders... I'm sure there's quite a market for the 110 and 130 in the US, but hold on guys! If the Defender hasn't been replaced by 2001, it will be shortly afterwards. The curvy shaped thing in all the mags - probably not like that. When I first saw it, I thought it was an April's Fools by the magazine in question. Its been in rather a lot of other magazines, so perhaps it isn't. But then, Land Rover celebrated their anniversary in April. Perhaps it was an April Fool's pulled by Land Rover - and the motoring press took it hook, line, and sinker? Anyway, who cares by 2001? I'll be back in the UK by then... Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) - and still waiting on the Visa... CIrvin1258@aol.com on 07/16/98 05:28:58 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Not just Freelanders... I tried emailing a friend of mine Tuesday (it was bounced back to me), about a trip I made to a local Land Rover dealership, and THIS is the news they gave me... 1. Freelander will be here by 2001 2. Defender will be back by the same date 3. NOT ONLY will Defender be back, but it will be back in 90, 110, AND 130 form! 4. Engine options are still up in the air, but they (the folks at LRNA) believe that the Tdi will finally get here, since enough people have complained about not having it as an option. 5. There's still talk about Rover bringing their cars back to the U.S. - but this is, as far as anybody knows, still un-decided. I originally emailed this to somebody privately, because I didn't want to start rumors. But, it looks like the info was accurate afterall. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 70 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 10:44:59 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: RE: Diconnecting the headlights/ rephraseing the question. On Thu, 16 Jul 1998, Wolfe, Charles wrote: > I read my original and I realize that it is a poorly worded question. I > removed the plug from the headlight bulb. But I want to remove the > headlight assembly. I have unscrewed the fasteners and have the > assembly off the apron but i cannot remove the assembly from the wiring > harness. So how do I disconnect the headlight assembly from the wiring > harness. I've never taken a II or IIa apart, but I guess it's more or less the same as on the SIII. There are bullet connectors, either inside the radiator panel, or on the right hand side of the panel. Disconnect there, pull the wires out through the wings, and finally out through the headlight assemblies themselves. That is, out of the hole where the headlight iself fits :-) Sorry if this is inaccurate, but that's how my SIII is wired. Terje Krogdahl Norwegian Land Rover Club http://www.land.rover.no 1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 71 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 10:31:27 +0100 Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie Kevin Rank wrote: > 1- I'm most interested in a Series IIA or possibly a Series III. I may > be off my rocker in asking this, but could I use one to pull a trailer, > i.e. a trailer with an MGB race car on it? I understand Series Rovers > aren't long on power, but I'm wondering if it's possible. The thought > of using a Landie to pull my B is pretty neat, I think. Off your rocker, maybe not yet, but given time .......... Have a look at http://trent49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/blv55a/blvaq.html for an example of towing with a Series III. The journey was from Telford to Stoke-on-Trent, not too far but the Severn Valley around Iron Bridge slowed us down a bit. Mick Forster 1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol 1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol Very sad Metro :-( http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/ http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/LWBrst/LWBrst.html (Details will appear as time allows) ------------------------------[ <- Message 72 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "LT S. ROCHNA" <rochnas@stennis.navy.mil> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 13:25:37 +0000 Subject: Perth Just checking again if there are any People familiar with Perth on the list. I'll be there for a few days in a couple weeks and will talk Rovers over beer if possible. It's been months since I've smelled 90wt. Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 73 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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