Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 13:29:52 +0200
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor

Hi all

>cable on the right side rides on top of the wheel box, and rides underneath
>the left wheelbox (again-left-right as above).

On mine, the cable (pipe) comes from the motor, over the left-hand box and
under the right-hand one.

>I don't understand how changing the
>cable position could possibly change the park position, even for the
>wheelbox which remains the same. 

Assuming the cable parks in the "out" position. If the cable moves over the
wheel, in-out would translate to anticlocks-clocks (from the inside). IOW
parking to the right. Under the wheel in-out -> clocks-anticlocks, IOW
parking to the left.

You want the lefthand wiper to park to the right and the righthand wiper to
park to the left. No worries.

So, tell me about distributors. The yellow Rand-Lover started behaving
really badly yesterday, misfiring like crazy. So I bought new plugs, dizzy
cap, coil, nothing worked. Then suddenly it came right, so off I went. And
then on my way home it got bad again, had to rip the dizzy from my wife's
'55 to get the yellow monster home. Sounds like there's something loose in
there, but I can't see anything obvious, looking at the weights and springs.

W 

------------------------------

From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 07:28:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

Hi Charles,
 When you replace your engine there will be a point when you have it
almost in place & will need to get tge trans & engine alined to slide
them together.  If you make two studs about 8 or 10 inchs long to guide
them together you later replace with bolts.it will help you.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 14:19:28 +0100
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

From:          "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>

Subject: 109 Ride Height

-Sadly, after having the new springs fitted, I find that :
-1) the front is still sitting higher than the rear

-2) the vehicle still noticeably lists to the passenger side

-As I had changed the springs in an effort to right these problems, I
-had failed miserably. Can anybody tell me if there is a special way 
-to set the springs to ensure a level vehicle?

Someone suggested getting my chassis checked for alignment, as I had a
listing rover since the day I bought it.

Okay, to be that much out of lign sounds very ulnikely indeed!
So get out a tape measure an measure the bloody thing..
Park her on a level spot, unloaded. start measuring, and comparing,

Left and right distances on the front and back axles,

Floor to underside of axle, (Left and right should be the same)

Top side of axle to frame,  any difference here results in result in 
a list to one side. If these distances are the same and she is 
still listing,  your chassis or bodywork is out of alignment.

If there is a difference, between top of axle and chassis,
Check the positions on the chassis where the springs are attached to, 
are they of the same height?(saw some awful welding on a car which 
caused listing!) Are your shocks working OK? Are your axle straps of 
the same length? Have you tightened your U- bolts with similar torque? 
(They tend to" strech" the springs.)
Loosen your springbush bolds and retorque them after driving 500 
yards and retorque.

If it is not all of this, its just the bloody 
springs.....................
Get out a hammer and anvil and recurve the flat one....
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: JKwas61947@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:24:32 EDT
Subject: Dizzy troubles?

W-

    You might want to check the fuel filter first.  My car was missing badly,
and after replacing everything except the distributor, I was convinced that I
had a burnt or sticking valve.  Well, one head job later, the problem
remained.  Turns out it was that fuel filter.  
    As I've heard one thousand times before,  check the cheap and easy first
(do as I say, not as I do)

John Kwasnik 
Sherburne NY

>.

------------------------------

From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 00:05:15 -0400
Subject: Rehab for Fairey ODs

No, this is not a social commentary about drug abuse treatment for strung
out forest-dwellers.

I bought a used Fairey OD and would very much appreciate some advice on
getting it ready for installation.  I'm only doing the externals:  "clutch
sleeve", seals, gaskets, and whatever else is recommended.  Has anyone on
the list done this or know of any articles about it on the web or in print?

My mother thanks you, my father thanks you, and I thank you,*

Neil Sheridan

Ripped off from George M. Cohan, American vaudevillian

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 14:43:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

Hi Charles,

When you replace your engine you will have to align your clutch 
plate or the gearbox and engine won't slide together.
Try to find an old gearbox axle or otherwise use a peace of 
round steel bar  of the right size, to align your clutchplate.
Another trick is to fasten the clutch plate so it can still move 
some, slide the engine on the the gearbox in which action it 
will center the clutchplate, retract it for 4 to 5 five inches  
(careful not to shift the plate ) and toque down the bolds. Last 
week I proved myself it can be done on eye judgement but the odds are 
against making it in one try. A few extra (strong) hands to realign 
the engine to slide it on the gearbox and/or some extra hoists and 
ropes might come in handy!

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 09:31:23 -0400
Subject: Shims for Steering Relay?

On the question of reducing the play in the body of the steering relay 
relative to the frame, many have suggested that the hole in the front frame 
cross member is too large and that the use shims could solve the problem.  
When I worked on mine I noticed that the Hole in the cross member is in 
fact significantly larger in diameter than the body of the relay.  Also I 
noticed that the hole is really a thin wall tube that runs up and down - 
obviously not designed to restrain the relay in place.  Shims fitted up 
into this tube may not be the best answer.  Check that bottom retaining 
collar - you need it!

Rick S.

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:35:51 +1000
Subject: Bangkok

>John M. Baker writes from Bangkok

Gahhhh!  Here I have just returned from a week in the Central Plaza Hotel in
Bangkok without anyone to talk to about Rovers!  Although I did see a blue
Series III at CAT headquarters.

I even wrote to the list seeking a Bangkok lister but to no avail.  Ah,
well.  Next time.

Oh, I did spend most of the days at CAT in meetings but I had two full free
days --- err, actually one full free day.  The second free day (my last day)
was spent not too far from the bathroom.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 11:04:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Whatzit

TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> wrote:

>This isn't one of those fittings that require a sealing nipple is it?  On 
>most mechanical oil pressure fittings there is this little brass bead 
>that threads over the tube and gets crushed between the two connectors 
>forming a pressure tight seal.  is this what you are refering to?

Nope, that's a ferrule, integral part of US "compression"-style fittings.
The other styles are flare nut and inverted flare.  The sending end is
neither.  And BTW, the original electrical oil pressuse unit is not 1/4"
NPT, it's *one thread* per inch off...I guess it's some British "standard".
 (Hafta go back and read the archives on all those other "standardized"
thread pitches.)

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 08:39:19 -0700
Subject: Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 19:55:39 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

In a message dated 7/14/98 11:20:54 AM, you wrote:

<<Do what we do at Boeing to make wings fit tightly: drive some small
metal shims in around the relay to wedge it tightly into the hole.
<<Do what we do at Boeing to make wings fit tightly: drive some small

>Just curious, but do the shims ever wiggle out? ;-)

They can't.  And just for the record, the wing "fit" clearance (when
they install the wings to the center wing box) on the 777, which was
designed entirely on computer, was one ten-thousandth of an inch on
three sides of the box and a fraction greater on the fourth side.
Obviously, it didn't need any shims.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 12:01:24 EDT
Subject: Transmission Rebuild Pointer

Hi all,

There has been a fair amount of traffic recently about transmission rebuilds.
I am presently finishing off the last of a SIIa rebuild and wanted to mention
this one item:

During disassembly, there is a sleeve attached to a cross-shaft which actuates
the clutch withdrawl bearing.  Be very careful in removing the pins from the
sleeve and cross shaft.  I had to resort to drilling out the remains of the
pin and altered the shape of the hole in the cross shaft.  This piece is a
real pain to find--although a machine shop could probably manufacture a
replacement.  The pin in the shaft is already prone to shearing and if the pin
is not a very snug fit, the risk of shearing is much greater.

I'll keep the old one as a spare but it has taken me calls to all the North
American suppliers (except BNW) and several faxes to the UK to find a
replacement.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Krister Bergknut <krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 18:50:32 +0200
Subject: Land Rover Fifty50 Challenge.

 Dear friends,

The above event, where 50 employees from Land Rover start a trip where they 
will 
attempt to pass through 50 countries in fifty days, and altogether 60 countries 
in 
some 60 days, will start on August 1.
You can read more about it in the July issue of Land Rover World.
The LROCs, Land Rover Owner Clubs, in the Nordic countries will support the 
teamin all possible ways including on Nordkapp, Cape North, which is an 
important point for the team.

I should however appreciate if someone on the list could give me contacts, 
advises etc concerning the Baltic states. How to pass the frontiers ? What 
about 
fuelling and paying for it, overnight stays etc ??

Any kind of information is of interest !!

If you are interested in the program for the ride through Denmark, Sweden, 
Norway 
and Finland - just get back to me !

Krister Bergknut, Norway           krister.bergknutÉpostbox.postnet.se

Telephone + 47 92635966

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 11:26:58 -0600
Subject: Re; Engine replacement
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi There-

Along with the other folks suggestions, I would replace the motor mounts =
(better to do it now while it's easy than later-don't ask me how I =
know!)Have the Radiator boiled out and change all the hoses. This an a =
new set of plugs, points etc should lead to a trouble free setup!

Any Help?

Art

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
WebSite  http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6339/
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"-Missing front bumper-great approach =
angle, but bugger all for frontal protection
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BDAFE3.7AAAE8E0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 14:07:23 EDT
Subject: Re-Billing / Beer Tent Etc.

After much hard negotiating I have secured a "listers" meeting place for
anyone interested in putting faces to names on Sunday. At the Lightweight
owners club stand.

So if  anyone wants to meet at Billing on Sunday. I will make a point of being
with my Lightweight hybrid on the Lightweight owners club stand at Noon and
again at 3pm (or thereabouts).

I will be the tall bearded guy lurking around the Lightweight hybrid with
bright yellow wheels, you can't miss it it's by far the best looking Land
Rover at the show :-)

Mike Rogers.
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 11:25:25 -0700
Subject: SII Windshield Wipers

This is kind of an embarrassing newby question... ;-)

Could someone please explain to me the operating procedures / controls
for the older windshield mounted wipers?  I've never actually seen a
complete motor in working order. All the Rover that I have driven before
getting mine had the newer single motor setup.  

On mine, there is a power switch on the left, and a threaded shaft
sticks out on the right that is missing what, in the pictures that I
have seen, looks like a control lever..  What is the function of this
lever?   Right now the motor is working but no motion is being
transferred to the wiper arm.  Looking outside right now at the pouring
rain here in sunny BC, I think that I'll be needing the wipers quite
soon!

Anybody have any spare wiper motor parts?  Both my motors work good, but
I am missing most of the control knobs/switches.

Tx.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:09:40 +0200
Subject: Noisy FWH?

Why should sing free wheel hubs (AVM 405/6) in 4x2 mode make the
transfer box rattle/ring more? (SIII diesel 88")

any ideas?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:06:49 +0200
Subject: Re: Land Rover Fifty50 Challenge.

Let me know what's going on in Denmark / Jutland - I'd love to meet
these guys. A stopover at LR deal Team Bertelsen in Sjelle, west of
Århus is to be recommended!

cheers

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 19:33:17 +0100
Subject: "withdraw the stub axle"... hah!

So, in my quest to fix the leaking brake master I have one
more part loose and dangling...

I want to remove the stub axe to try and press the 
stuck hub bearing off. So now the stub axle is disconnected
from the swivel pin housing, only to bump against the (slightly
thicker) end of the axle shaft splines.
 
According to the manual it should be a case of "withdraw the
stub axle". Hmm. Any ideas?

	thanks, Axel (and the slowly desintegrating '68 SWB SIIa)

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 98 15:47:58 EST
Subject: Re: "withdraw the stub axle"... hah!

>I want to remove the stub axe to try and press the 
>stuck hub bearing off. So now the stub axle is disconnected 
>from the swivel pin housing, only to bump against the 
>(slightly thicker) end of the axle shaft splines.

I managed to get my stuck bearing off w/ a pipe wrench.
They aren't a press fit to begin with, so once you break the binding they tend 
to work off, then you clean up the shaft w/ a file and some emery cloth.
The splines on the end of the axle should not be bigger than the I.D. of the 
stub axle. If they are then something is terribly wrong, or it is not a LR 
part... 

later
daveb

------------------------------

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 16:12:18 -0400
Subject: Re: SII Windshield Wipers

Hey Paul,
    The threaded shaft that is on the right hand side of your wiper motor is
the opposite end of the shaft that your wiper arm attaches to on the out
side the vehicle and  controls the position of your wiper arm. It allows you
to manually park your wiper blades so their out of the way.  All you do is
pull out on the shaft using the lever that sounds to be missing on yours and
swing it down.
    I happen to have two units that I recently replaced with the single
motor system as well as two that were pulled from a SII that I parted out.
These last two -one of which is missing the on/off switch lever- don't work,
however they were never taken apart and cleaned or inspected but they both
have the arms that you require. If you'd like them they are yours for the
asking and shipping. E-mail me direct with your particulars if you'd like
them.
     Dan SII 88 HT

Paul Quin wrote:

> This is kind of an embarrassing newby question... ;-)
> Could someone please explain to me the operating procedures / controls
> for the older windshield mounted wipers?  I've never actually seen a
> complete motor in working order. All the Rover that I have driven before
> getting mine had the newer single motor setup.
> On mine, there is a power switch on the left, and a threaded shaft
> sticks out on the right that is missing what, in the pictures that I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Victoria, BC  Canada
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 16:51:34 -0400
Subject: driving thru NC to NY?

Anybody driving to Greek Peak from/through NC towing a trailer ?
If there's room, couldja drag a spare alum block up there?
I know space is usually at a premium on trips like that, but I thought
I'd ask anyway.
Thx
Jan

------------------------------

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 21:47:24 +0100
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

In message <bulk.22700.19980715051604@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, car4doc
<car4doc@concentric.net> writes
>Hi Charles,
> When you replace your engine there will be a point when you have it
>almost in place & will need to get tge trans & engine alined to slide
>them together.  If you make two studs about 8 or 10 inchs long to guide
>them together you later replace with bolts.it will help you.
>Regards,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Regards,
>  Rob Davis_Chicago

What me and my mate do is when you are ready to shove the engine on to 
the gearbox or vice versa is to flick the starter switch it works every time.

By the way disconnect the coil first chaps
-- 
andy Smith
1965 ser 2a v8 swb
1971 ser 2a 2.25 petrol swb
 

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 17:29:23 -0400
Subject: RE: driving thru NC to NY?

> Anybody driving to Greek Peak from/through NC towing a trailer ?

No, but I did it last weekend with an entire recording studio in the back 
of a 74 SIII that I just got... I thought I'd be cool and take the blue ridge
parkway part of the way to get some cool pics of my new toy... 
Surprisingly the only thing that happend was the PO's handmade
alternator mount broke, but I could fix it... 

To whoever said that engine braking was easy... damn... there's
a huge difference between third and fourth... I think that's what broke
the mount... and it seems that only one brake is working... it was
the only one smoking after the first couple of hills and I wasn't even 
using it that much... bad sign.... but I'll have a couple of questions
about that later...

-Scott

------------------------------

From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:24:52 +1000
Subject: comments from yesterday's digest

From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:55:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel gauges
Sandy,
When you pull it apart try sprying it with "Greased Lightning" and cleaning
it w/ an old toothbrush.  That stuff is great for removing all kinds of
"varnish" that accumulates on various parts.  It even peals paint and
disolves the gunk that collects on the filter in the range hood in the
kitchen.
Cheers,
Ray

*I'd be verrrrry careful about using anything that stripped varnish as the
*insulation on those wires is varnish - the current must not move between
the *wire (coil) - just from the coil to the pick-up

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 13:39:53 -0500
Subject: Where to buy POR 15?
Despite extensive searching, there is no place in the Duluth MN area to
buy POR 15.  Any sources such as mail order?
Thanks
*I  emailed them from the web and asked them who their Australian
distributor was - they sent me an *email address and phone number - I then
contacted the Australian distributor who gave me the name, *address and
phone number of my local supplier.  I know you're not in Australia but the
same process *would probably work

A certain degree of side-to-side list is acceptable in a Series Land
Rover.  The Land Rovers sold in the UK were set up with a higher spring
camber on the driver's (right) side to compensate for the fact that the
driver, the battery, and the gas tank were all on one side (I don't know
if this applied to Model 109s, but it did to Model 88s).  Left-hand
drive Land Rovers have no need of this compensation as the driver is on
the opposite side from the battery and fuel tank

*Don't forget the significant extra weight of the transfer case and the
diffs.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 16:06:01 -0700
Subject: RE: comments from yesterday's digest

	Richard Writes:*Don't forget the significant extra weight of the
transfer case and the
	diffs.

The diffs are actually unsprung weight.  (their weight sits directly on
the wheels, not on the springs)

Paul in Victoria

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 01:32:06 +0200
Subject: Hot running SIII?

Having got my 88" on the road, it's time to look at the 109, which has
been severely ignored for several months.

Just checked all the holes - oil and water OK, engine running well and
without undue smoke, no apparant problems.

But the temp meter has being showing a little high for ´several months,
without any other indications of problems .- no loss of water or oil, no
smoke, no bad runing, and no overheating (boilover)

But the radiator top is almost completly clean brass, as if the paint
has cooked off?

I have changed the thermostat and the temp sensor twice since the
winter, no problems and no improvement.

Is there a problem or what?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:36:26 -0400
Subject: Fuel gauges

 Sandy, the fuel gauge reading can be adjusted, on the back opf the gauge
are a couple of nuts fitted to studs which pass through the rear case of the
instrument, the holes are slotted allowing the position to be changed. There
is always the cruder approach, just bend the pointer !!  See you at the end
of the month !!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:35:11 EDT
Subject: Re:  Bangkok

In a message dated 7/15/98 9:35:47 AM, you wrote:

<<Oh, I did spend most of the days at CAT in meetings but I had two full free
days --- err, actually one full free day.  The second free day (my last day)
was spent not too far from the bathroom.>>

That's probably why they gave you *two* days, one to enjoy yourself, and the
following one to see they doctor... ;-) (My parents just there too, on the way
to and coming back from the ruins at Angkor in Camodia)

Ancient Thai Parable: "If man go through airplane door *sideways*, chances
are, he going to Bangkok!" get it?

--pat.

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:42:50 -0400
Subject: Oil fittings

Sandy, the oil pressure fittings are 1/8" British Standard Pipe thread ( BSP
) the NPT are similar except for thread angle ( you  Yanks are poor copiers-
someone di 'nt do a good job of copying old Joe Whitworths woirk ) 

 The oil pressure gauge on the LR normally terminates at a special Banjo
fitting at the oil pressure sender, which on most series vehicles is a 3/8
Whitworth thread, which is fitted with a special extension piece. 

 Bring the parts to Greek Peak.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 20:44:10 -0400
Subject: Breathers

John writes   Does anyone know the thread size of the common brass breathers
for a
Series III ?

 It is 1/8 " BSP but NPT will fit. the difference is the thread angle.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Harry Brown <hbrown@hbs.edu>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:01:22 -0400
Subject: Greek Peak - lets find each other

Hi there,

I took the liberty of making a couple gifs that we can post on our rovers
and maybe help us find each other. Throw 'em on one of your windows.

You can find them at:

http://www.people.hbs.edu/hbrown/greekpeak.html

How 'bout also deciding on a CB channel to monitor as we all travel to the
site ? I'm sure some of us will be running into each other on the road, but
we may be able start a few unplanned convoys.

Any suggestions ?

cheers,

Harry

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
  '96 Discovery             	   Harry Brown II
                      		   Harvard Business School
 "When the Going gets Weird,            Dept. For Information Technology
           The Weird turn Pro. "                mailto:hbrown@hbs.edu
                       Hunter Thompson           http://straylight.hbs.edu
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:52:00 -0400
Subject: The springs are sprung, her arse is riz.

Fitted the new parabolics tonight. Front rides 1 3/4 inches higher. (19 at
bottom of bumper to 20 3/4) Rear is 2 inches higher (20 at corner off X
member to 22). Sits level, rolls slightly more on corners but feels more in
control, front dips under braking, manhole covers go unnoticed, overall
quality of ride is smoother ,quieter and a short off road excursion felt
like a different vehicle altogether. Longer term report after the weekend.
See them, touch them, feel them at Greek Peak.

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:58:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: refitting the distributor.

I am in the process of reassembling my engine following the minor overhaul
-- head, rings, rod bearings, oilpump.  I have everything back together,
except that I can't fit the dizzy.  It doesn't go down far enough to
engage the drive.  Obviously, I have done something wrong.  But I can't
figure out what it is.  I did find that I have two odd bolts left over,
they are about 3/4" long and 1/4" in diameter, with threads for half the
length, the end being a smallish pin.  I presume these are supposed to be
be doing something useful, like holding the oil pump drive gear up?  

David  

------------------------------

From: "Shaun Fisher" <fishers@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 07:48:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Greek Peak - lets find each other

Hi all

I think the CB channel is a very good idea and not just in the USA 
but possibily in SA as well  or other countries. I am in a very good 
position for skip conditions and would find it great. I think the 
only problem is that in SA we are limited to channels 19 thu 27. But 
I guess that is our problem.

Cheers

Shaun Fisher
THE BIG RED BITCH

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 08:12:00 +0200
Subject: Re: Hot running SIII?

> Is there a problem or what?

Did you check the voltage regulator for the gauges? (mounted at the back of
the speedo)
Mine was out of order, so the temperature gauge reached to high. Now with a
7810 regulator (electronic) it is in perfect order.

Joost Kramer

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden" <rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 09:24:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Hot running SIII?

Is the regulator okay?   (how do the other gauges that sit off it read?)

If its failing and passing high voltage, will give a high reading...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> on 07/16/98 12:32:06 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Hot running SIII?

Having got my 88" on the road, it's time to look at the 109, which has
been severely ignored for several months.

Just checked all the holes - oil and water OK, engine running well and
without undue smoke, no apparant problems.

But the temp meter has being showing a little high for 4several months,
without any other indications of problems .- no loss of water or oil, no
smoke, no bad runing, and no overheating (boilover)

But the radiator top is almost completly clean brass, as if the paint
has cooked off?

I have changed the thermostat and the temp sensor twice since the
winter, no problems and no improvement.

Is there a problem or what?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:45:02 +1000
Subject: whitworth wrenches

Ray Burton asks:
>Have you thought about buying up all these 50 cents wrenches
>and re-selling them to other Rover owners?

I hadn't but someone else (no names) also asked.  But as we don't have
wrenches in Oz, the best I can do is buy Whitworh *spanners* 8-)

Ron

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 23:57:46 +1000
Subject: whatzit

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>This isn't one of those fittings that require a sealing nipple is it?
>On most mechanical oil pressure fittings there is this little brass
>bead  that threads over the tube and gets crushed between the
>two connectors forming a pressure tight seal.

This is called an "olive" in Australia.

A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice wrote:

;>Bought a used Smith's gauge at Bowie for $5 and a
;>still-in-the-original-blister-pak Smiths fitting kit for $10.
;>One end  with this strange flat connector fits the gauge,
;>but the other is unlike anything else around.  It has a hose
;> barb terminated in what appears to be an inverted flare,
:>but a collar or sealing ring that threads up as 1/8" NPT
;>but won't seal.

It sounds like the newer style of Smiths connector.  Last time I bought one
they had changed from the olive to this type.  I remember looking at it and
wondering how the hell it worked but it does.

How are you assembling it?  I'll have to look in the garage for instructions
but it should seal.

You'll get adaptors at your usual car parts place that stocks Taiwanese
guages that come ready for any car.

Ron

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 38 lines 1802 [forwarded 68 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1208 [content 1051  forwarded 48 (cut  20) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>