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From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 07:37:36 -0500
Subject: steering relay moves

David Hope wrote:
>some play in the bottom of the steering relay.  When I moved the wheels I
>can see the base of the relay move from side to side.

You have fallen victim to the myth of the stuck relay. Some relays actually
are not jammed in place by decades of rust.

Baby's relay did the same thing. At the top of the relay are two long bolts
that are supposed to belay the relay against rotary play. These bolts were
loose, but it didn't show when we looked at the relay from below (duh). The
pinch action of this setup is essentially kludge engineering, but what the
hell, it's British.

1. Tighten the two bolts til they are painfully tight.

2. Oil the relay with 90 weight. This will reduce the tendency to rotate.

3. Underneath, tighten the retainer screws.

    _____
___(_____)                  Any Coalition that espouses
|Baby the\                  hate, bigotry, and ignorance
|1969 Land\_===__           doesn't seem very Christian to me.
   ___Rover   ___|o
|_/ . \______/ .  ||
 __\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 08:00:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Start Me Up

So Wes,

Playing Army at the Big FIG, eh??  Never been there, never done that - by the
way, is the littel road house just outside the gate going toward the race
track still open?  <GRIN>

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:50:36 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor

On Tue, 14 Jul 1998, John Baker wrote:

> to proceed down below the window frame. I don't understand how changing the
> cable position could possibly change the park position, even for the

If both go the wrong way, I fail to see any other solution than both
boxes being upside down? I've never seen any way to readjust the
motor, but I guess someone will correct me if I'm wrong there.

Btw:
I made the same mistake when I replaced the bulkhead of my 88", but as I
managed not to discover the mistake before the vehicle was completely
reassembled, my passenger side wiper still parks in the top position :-)

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 98 06:06:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor

>Hope a reader or readers can help me with this.
;

Set the wiper gear boxes up so that the cable passes to the top of the 
left wiper box and to the bottom of the right wiper box.  Remove the 
wiper arms.  Run the motor once and let it park.  Place the arms back on 
the spindles with the arms along the bottom pointed to the centre of the 
windscreen.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Calzoni Marco <teies53@teidns1.tei.ericsson.se>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 15:11:49 +0200
Subject: (no subject)

------------------------------

From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 13:01:57 +0100
Subject: BIllting Beltring 98

Hello,

I´am off the list for about one or two weeks. I´want to travel to the
UK. I´am in Beltring (MV show) on Thusday and Friday, then I will 
drive to Northhampton to the LRO Show at Billing. I will stay there
until Monday.

I drive my light green 109 Diesel with canvas and rear mounted antenna
mast. The mast will be fitted with a 2m 9 elm YAgi.
The regristation no. is SO-XA 245.

Bye

Oli
DG5DBV   (soon M/DG5DBV/M ) :)

1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "slow & smokey"
dg5dbv@qsl.net
http://www.qsl.net/dg5dbv

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:37:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor

Hi John,

I have just done this too! I discovered the fault when the dash panel
was reinstalled. instead of \ / i got / / !

I solved it this way -

1.	Remove wiper arms from axle
2.	Install one (the most accessible) axle mount so that it sits on the
opposite side (above/below) of the drive spiral to the other. (The LR
set up is designed so that the left side sits below and the right side
sits above, but having got it wrong (both above) i could only get to the
right side, so I switched that instead)

3.	Run the motor and turn it off, so that it parks in the correct
position (do you have auto parking on your motor?)

4.	Then remount the wiper arms on the axles.

it should work - if you don't have auto parking, then you will need to
remount one arm so that you can see where in the rotation the axle is
when you turn off. then adjust both arms to suit.

I hope this helps

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:23:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering Relay Moves

David,

When I put my new steering relay in the frame I was tempted to not install 
the bottom retaining collar because it was somewhat mangled in the process 
of removing it.  I realized, however, that this collar is there to keep the 
bottom of the relay from moving around!  It sound to me like you don't have 
this collar installed.  It is secured to the bottom of the frame with four 
screws and fits securly around the bottom part of the rely - the part that 
protrudes through the bottom of the frame.

Hope this helps.

Rick Snyder
'71 IIA  

------------------------------

From: "Giles Warham" <giles@g7tgr.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:53:07 +0100
Subject: Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

>frame piece is simply too large in diameter.  Does anyone have ideas about
>how I can get rid of this annoying play in the relay.

I packed mine with washers and bent the two up-right bits of metal (top side
of chassis) to take up the remaining play (using special tool #1 (Big Lump
Hammer!)).   That seems to have fixed it - the problem is quite common - its
probably not that the new component is at fault - when rebuilding on a new
chassis and fitting a new genuine relay, I still had this problem.  The
bottom is held in place securely by a sort of flanged thingy bolted to the
chassis - so that end should be free of play.

Hope that helps!
Regards,
Giles.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:39:23 EDT
Subject: Re: 1970 land rover -whats it worth?

Shaun: Regarding your question : It depends on a lot of factors. I assume that
its in the US for starters. A rough guide (my gut feeling, top o' me head)
would be:

Basket case/parts car  $500 to $1500
Running, restorable, rough, needs work: $1500 to $3500
Usable to Good Condition Overall   $3500 to $7500
Very good to Excellent    $7500 to $10000
Over Restored (every gew-gaw in the Rovers North catalog, plus a few):  "What
the market will bear"

Look in Hemmings Motor News for an indication of asking prices (invariably too
high). What someone is willing to pay will depend on how desparate they are to
own one, and on local availability of others to choose from. Good Luck . Andy

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed;  ]
From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 10:41:07 -0400
Subject: Re: whitworth wrenches
Content-Disposition: inline

Ron,

Have you thought about buying up all these 50 cents wrenches and re-selling
them to other Rover owners?

Cheers,

Ray Burton
'64 109 SW "Lulu"
'70 88
'84 RR "Brown Bess"

                                                                  
 (Embedded                                                        
 image moved   "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>               
 to file:      07/13/98 05:52 AM                                  
 pic00979.pcx)                                                    
                                                                  

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Ray Burton/VEN/USAIR)
Subject:  whitworth wrenches

From: David Scheidt  wrote:

>As where to buy these infernal things comes up from time to time,  I
>thought I would pass along that Moss motors have Whitworth
Just to annoy you, David.  I went to a local junk shop on Saturday and
noticed they had boxes of spanners and sockets,  Many in Whitworth sizes at
50 cents each.

Ron

--0__=zHQxYFv2q2eQgugaE2cCBgBaBr4WPJ8Zx6jd0M3hI9HBIvsFqDlP7xrO

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 07:42:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

> My car appears to sit level front to rear.  But I have a massive
winch up front.

I have a roofrack on the rear half, and the spare is mounted aft on
the door and 80litre petrol tank on the rear. I figured that using the
109 station wagon springs would raise the rear; thinking that having 7
passengers in the back would need stronger springs. I was wrong. Even
by fitting on 1 ton shackles, the back still sags.

Yesterday, I did a comparison of other 109s that have level or
slightly raised rear ends. Found that they were using 9 leaves on the
rear springs, but these were rather thick leaves. I am using 11 thin
leaves. I understand that the thicker leaves give a harsher ride, but
once loaded till the rover is level, they ride as well as the 11 leaves.

> This is also my biggest peeve.  My left hand drive 109 looks like it
>is listing about 10 to 15 degrees to the right (right side down).
Drove around and sought the advice of 2 different workshops - one a
chassis shop and the other, a panel beater with over 30 years'
experience panel beating Birmabright. Guess what their respective
opinions were?

The chassis shop claims that my chassis is twisted, something he is
well equipped to fix. Panel beater said that the bodywork had been
poorly put together - all the curves and panels don't line up too
good, and that is why the rover leans one side. Again, he is well
equipped to undertake that job of fixing the lean.

Both sound like reasonable answers to the problem.

> Rover has stronger springs for the driver's side to keep the car
level 
> when traveling.  Their cars have the driver and the under seat fuel
Although I seat a driver and 1 passenger at the rear upper side, the
rover is still not level. Anyway, there is no difference in the road
springs for the rear.

> My current plan is to switch over to the Santanna parabolics when I
>get spare $$$.
I had thought about them at length and had to give in to buying stock
springs also because of $$$. However, I heard that in order to realise
the full potential of your parabolics, U have to also use special
dampers. In fact, the local Old Man Emu dealer will not sell me the
parabolics if I don't install them with corresponding OME shocks. His
reason is that because of the parabolic's greater articulation, longer
lasting, but softer dampers are needed. "Stock LR dampers heat up and
lose its damping ability too soon. Moreover they are too hard. It can
damage the parabolics and this damage is not covered in our warranty"
he claimed.

For me, I'll take the easy way out to fixing my problem, till I find a
job and this present economic doom over Asia blows over - I'll add
leaves of my old spring to the rear till the rover levels out!

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 08:19:23 -0700
Subject: Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:35:04 -0500
Subject: New steering relay moves in the cross member

> I recently checked over my steering components and noticed that there
is
some play in the bottom of the steering relay.  When I moved the wheels
I
can see the base of the relay move from side to side.

> The relay came from British Pacific and is fitted to an after market
front
frame piece which came from DAP.  I suppose that the hole in the
relacement
frame piece is simply too large in diameter.  Does anyone have ideas
about
how I can get rid of this annoying play in the relay.

Do what we do at Boeing to make wings fit tightly: drive some small
metal shims in around the relay to wedge it tightly into the hole.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:43:04 -0400
Subject: Fuel gauges

Ran out of fuel a few blocks from the house...it seems that the "empty"
point on the gauge has moved north by a good bit.  Previously, I could go
well below "E" and when the needle began waving madly ("get fuel, fool"), I
knew I had only miles left.  Now at "E" it's bloody *empty*.

So I grab the jerry can and walk a block to the station.  3.5 gallons puts
the needle on "half" !?!?!

So it appears that the resistance in the system has increased, most likely
corrosion on the coil or the little tab that rides on the coil in the
sender unit.  I've pulled these things apart before, but how do you clean
wire that fine?  If you've never pulled one apart, we're talking fine as a
strand of hair....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:46:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel gauges

Cleaning:

My favorite methoid for things like this is the old Pink Pearl trick (get
your mind out of the gutter!)

Get a gum pencil eraser "Pink Pearl" or equivalent brand. Soft is good -
ink erasers are too coarse and abrasive.

With the wire section in front of you, rub the wire gently IN THE DIRECTION
OF WINDING with the eraser - it will remove the surface oxidation and leave
a clean surface.

Make sure you clean the moving contact, and that its resistance to the
pivot hasn't gone up!

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:55:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel gauges

Sandy,

When you pull it apart try sprying it with "Greased Lightning" and cleaning
it w/ an old toothbrush.  That stuff is great for removing all kinds of
"varnish" that accumulates on various parts.  It even peals paint and
disolves the gunk that collects on the filter in the range hood in the
kitchen.

Cheers,
Ray

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 12:02:00 -0400
Subject: Convoy to Greek Peak from Toronto

LROI North America and The 4X4 Experience are planning a convoy to Greek
Peak, truly a once in a life time event and expected to be the largest ever
gathering of Land Rover vehicles in North America.  Located just a few hours
away from Toronto in upstate New York this is expected to be the premier
event of the year.  If enough owners are interested they propose leading a
convoy of vehicles starting at Land Rover North Toronto and proceeding via
Land Rover Toronto, Land Rover Metro West and Budd+s of Oakville adding to
the convoy as they go

Please contact Kevin Girling if you are interested in joining the convoy at
any point between Toronto and Greek Peak
Telephone 905-436-3147
http://www.lroi.com
1-888-lroshop.

Carl Rogerson of LROI will be arriving in Toronto Friday July 31st and
riding down to Greek Peak with Kevin.

Have you registered for Greek Peak yet? Deadline for preregistration is July
17th if you don't mail your registration by then it may not arrive in time.
Get an on-line registration form at http://www.rover-clubs.org

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 98 09:59:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel gauges

Sandy, 
Being a believer in check the easy & cheap things first, have you cleaned 
all the wire connections?  Gauge to sender, sender to ground?

It has been a while since I looked inside a sender but you should 
basically have a coil of wound wire with a wiper that moves along the 
coil as the fuel level changes.  You need to have insulation between the 
adjacent coils of wire but not between the wiper and the surface of the 
coil it rides against. You could slip a very fine grade of sandpaper 
between the wiper and the coil.  just don't get too overzealous cleaning 
the coil side.

I would be most apt to guess ground connection.

See you at Greek Peak ;^)

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 07:21:18
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

Have you tried changing the springs from side to side.  A pain in the a**
but it would answer any question about a bent frame or what ever.  
Aloha Peter

At 07:42 AM 7/14/98 -0700, you wrote:
>> My car appears to sit level front to rear.  But I have a massive
>winch up front.
>I have a roofrack on the rear half, and the spare is mounted aft on
>the door and 80litre petrol tank on the rear. I figured that using the
>109 station wagon springs would raise the rear; thinking that having 7
>passengers in the back would need stronger springs. I was wrong. Even
>by fitting on 1 ton shackles, the back still sags.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 68 lines)]
>Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
>A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 13:51:32 -0400
Subject: whatzit

I'm replacing the electric oil pressure gauge with a mechanical one.
Bought a used Smith's gauge at Bowie for $5 and a
still-in-the-original-blister-pak Smiths fitting kit for $10.  One end with
this strange flat connector fits the gauge, but the other is unlike
anything else around.  It has a hose barb terminated in what appears to be
an inverted flare, but a collar or sealing ring that threads up as 1/8" NPT
but won't seal.  (The original sending unit is 1/4" NPT, BTW.)  The
hydraulic fitting place that has every esoteric fitting/union/ whatever
used in the US can't even identify it.  Any guesses?

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:23:56 -0400
Subject: Breather

Does anyone know the thread size of the common brass breathers for a
Series III ?

If 1/8 or 1/4 NPT, I saw some awesome replacements in Summit's Racing
equipment catalog...

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:22:09 -0400
Subject: Breathers

Does anyone know the thread size for the common axle breathers on a
Series III ?

If 1/8 or 1/4 NPT, I saw

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 13:39:53 -0500
Subject: Where to buy POR 15?

Despite extensive searching, there is no place in the Duluth MN area to
buy POR 15.  Any sources such as mail order?

Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 13:44:40 -0500
Subject: Planning engine replacement

I am going to order a Turner long block this week.  This will be the
first time I pulled a rover engine.  Would greatly appreciate any tips
and advice.  What other jobs should I do while I doing this job?
What parts should i order besides the engine?

Thanks
cwolfe

------------------------------

From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 14:12:56 -0500
Subject: Paint and Wipers

Hi,
1961 series II/IIA 88" basic 

1) I want to paint my axle and all, can I use handy Rustoleum black?  Will
it stay on with the heat of the axle? it is not rusted.

2) I ordered wiper arms from RN on 2 occasions now I have one long arm and
one short arm.  What are the differences?  Which should I keep?

3)  I am replacing the wheel cylinders and flex lines on the front wheels.
The drums and pads are good but the pads are definately not the same type
on left vs right. Is it ok to do them a pair at a time?  If I adj the pads
will the type matter. 

BTW I contacted POR via the web and they sent me a wonderful color catalog.
Steve Fullwood

http://www.asft.ttu.edu/grad/steve/stevef.htm

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 15:04:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

In a message dated 7/14/98 2:49:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CWolfe@smdc.org
writes:

<< I am going to order a Turner long block this week.  This will be the
 first time I pulled a rover engine.  Would greatly appreciate any tips
 and advice.  What other jobs should I do while I doing this job?
 What parts should i order besides the engine?
  >>

Hi Charles,

I would use blocks to support up the transmission and engine.  Next, remove
wings and radiator panel.  Although not necessary to pull engine, it greatly
increases the margin of error if the engine starts to shift during the lift.
Follow the workshop manual--it's not all that difficult to do.

While you have it out, you might want to replace the clutch if there's any
doubt about it, turn the flywheel and replace the pilot bush.  If the new
engine is relatively bare, you will probably want to replace/rebuild the
waterpump at this time.

Nate  

------------------------------

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 16:11:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Where to buy POR 15?

Wolfe, Charles wrote:

> Despite extensive searching, there is no place in the Duluth MN area to
> buy POR 15.  Any sources such as mail order?

    Try    www.por15.com    You can order it through E-mail, or use
1-800-457-6715, they also have a fax #
            Dan. '61 SIIA 88 HT

> Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:08:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

><< I am going to order a Turner long block this week.  This will be the
> first time I pulled a rover engine.  Would greatly appreciate any tips
> and advice.  >
>Hi Charles,
>I would use blocks to support up the transmission and engine.  Next, remove
>wings and radiator panel.  Although not necessary to pull engine, it

greatly
>increases the margin of error if the engine starts to shift during the
lift.

I'll testify to this - alright, I was takiing the engine out of a Mini
instead, but the hoist gave way as I moved the vehicle out from under the
engine. It landed on the wing.

Engines and wings don't mix. :(

BTW, although no-one in their right minds would do this, the workshop manual
for a 101 suggests removing the engine by lifting it off the mounts, moving
the chassis a couple of inches, and lowering the engine to a waiting trolley
below. Then all you have to is tip up the remaining 101 and slide it out
from below. Surely it would be easier to remove the canvas?

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:23:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Breather

In message <bulk.4772.19980714113403@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Tackley, John
<jtackley.dit@state.va.us> writes
>Does anyone know the thread size of the common brass breathers for a
>Series III ?
>If 1/8 or 1/4 NPT, I saw some awesome replacements in Summit's Racing
>equipment catalog...

They are indeed 1/8 npt
-- 
andy Smith

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 98 15:26:55 -0700
Subject: Re: whatzit

This isn't one of those fittings that require a sealing nipple is it?  On 
most mechanical oil pressure fittings there is this little brass bead 
that threads over the tube and gets crushed between the two connectors 
forming a pressure tight seal.  is this what you are refering to?

;>I'm replacing the electric oil pressure gauge with a mechanical one.
;>Bought a used Smith's gauge at Bowie for $5 and a
;>still-in-the-original-blister-pak Smiths fitting kit for $10.  One end 
with
;>this strange flat connector fits the gauge, but the other is unlike
;>anything else around.  It has a hose barb terminated in what appears to 
be
;>an inverted flare, but a collar or sealing ring that threads up as 1/8" 
NPT
;>but won't seal.  (The original sending unit is 1/4" NPT, BTW.)  The
;>hydraulic fitting place that has every esoteric fitting/union/ whatever
;>used in the US can't even identify it.  Any guesses?

         | TeriAnn Wakeman
         | twakeman@cruzers.com
         | http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
         |
         | "The Green Rover"
         | 1960 109 two door
         | Expedition equipped
         |
         | _______     ____
      .==|"======="==='    `=============.
     /   |	                               \
     | ._|_______________________________. |
     |/  |    	___________________	    .. \|
    ,|___|____/ _________________ \____||__|,       
     | .-|-. | |	                | | .-||. |
     | | | | | |	                |'%,||||| |	
     | | | | | |                	| | ||||| |	
 _   | | | | | |_________________| | ||||| |  _	
(_)  | | | | |                    	| ||||| | (_)
   \ | `-|-' |        	==	        '% ||||' |/
   ,'====|===|=====================|=||||===` 
   |(o)  | 0||	        ||	        ||0||||(o)|
   |(o)  o  ||	        ||	        || ||||(o)|
   ||   ==  ||	        ||        	|| ||||  ||
   ||  ____ ||	        ||	        || ||||__||
   || |7050|||        	||	        || |____/||
   ||  ---- ||_________||_________||   ||  ||
   ||_______|______________________|___||__||
   | |	    |	        | _ |	         |	    | |
   |_|_____|_________[ - ]__________|_____|_| 
    | Land  |~~~~~~~~'~~~.___/~~~~ | Land  |
    |   /   |                      |   /   |
    | Rover |	                     | Rover |
    |_______|                    	 |_______|
     |\\~//|	                       |\\~//|
     |_\_/_|	                       |_\_/_|

  [Key -Dormobile top, military bummperettes,
   rear whip antenna, vertical rear mounted 
   hiLift jack, tail gate, side hinged lift gate]

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 98 15:31:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Planning engine replacement

>I am going to order a Turner long block this week.  This will be the
>first time I pulled a rover engine.  Would greatly appreciate any tips
;>and advice.  What other jobs should I do while I doing this job?
;>What parts should i order besides the engine?

I suffer from chronic shipfitters diesese.  Last time I pulled an engine 
I had the transmission rebuilt and the radiator replaced at the same 
time.  This is a good time to refinish the newly exposed frame and 
repaint the engine compartment.

My transmission had a retaining ring that was mostly worn through so it 
was $$ well spent for prevention.

At a minimum you should replace the clutch while it is out.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:21:09 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 02:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 109 Ride Height

>Sadly, after having the new springs fitted, I find that :

1) the front is still sitting higher than the rear

2) the vehicle still noticeably lists to the passenger side

As I had changed the springs in an effort to right these problems, I
had failed miserably. Can anybody tell me if there is a special way to
set the springs to ensure a level vehicle?

Someone suggested getting my chassis checked for alignment, as I had a
listing rover since the day I bought it.

Also, is it natural for a rover to ride bow high?

After about 10 years, the rear springs on my 1973 Series III-88 began to
sag, and the vehicle took a definite "bow high" attitude.  Before this,
it had set pretty much level fore and aft.  I replaced the rear springs
with a new set of 109 springs (with helper leaves) and the Land Rover
then sat a bit stern high which is all right with me.  When the front
springs began to show daylight through the leaves, I replaced them with
standard Model 88 springs.  The fore/aft trim did not change when I did
this.  So I believe the answer is no, it is NOT natural for an unloaded
Land Rover to ride bow high.

On possible problem is that you tightened the bushing bolts before you
let the vehicle down onto its wheels.  You obviously have to install the
bolts when the vehicle is in the air, but don't tighten and torque them
until you've re-installed the wheels and tires and let the vehicle down
to the ground.  This allows the bushings to rotate to their neutral,
unloaded position.  Then you can tighten and torque the bolts.  If you
tighten the bolts when the Land Rover is in the air, the bushings will
be loaded incorrectly when you let the vehicle down onto its wheels.  I
don't know that this would cause the sag you are experiencing, but it
will cause premature wearing out of the bushings.

A certain degree of side-to-side list is acceptable in a Series Land
Rover.  The Land Rovers sold in the UK were set up with a higher spring
camber on the driver's (right) side to compensate for the fact that the
driver, the battery, and the gas tank were all on one side (I don't know
if this applied to Model 109s, but it did to Model 88s).  Left-hand
drive Land Rovers have no need of this compensation as the driver is on
the opposite side from the battery and fuel tank.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 19:55:39 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

In a message dated 7/14/98 11:20:54 AM, you wrote:

<<Do what we do at Boeing to make wings fit tightly: drive some small
metal shims in around the relay to wedge it tightly into the hole.
<<Do what we do at Boeing to make wings fit tightly: drive some small

Just curious, but do the shims ever wiggle out? ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: "Ray Burton" <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 16:28:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Where to buy POR 15?

At the risk of sounding ignorant.  What is POR15?

------------------------------

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 18:25:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Where to buy POR 15?

They claim it is:
"...POR-15 Inc.®  brings the powerful technology of polymeric isocyanate
derivatives to the consumer rust prevention market for the first time, a
technology vastly superior to competing products currently on the market.
POR-15® is easier and less expensive to apply than epoxies, since it doesn’t
require mixing: and POR-15® dries to a high-gloss or semi-gloss finish like
paint, except that it cannot he scratched or peeled off. Since POR-15®
chemically bonds to metal, the underlying surface does not have to be sanded
before application. As long as loose or flaking rust are removed from the
surface, an application of POR-15® will not only cover up the rust and
prevent it from spreading, but will also strengthen the underlying metal and
seal holes by forming its own membranes."
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Ray Burton <Ray_Burton@usairways.com>
Para: lro@playground.sun.com <lro@playground.sun.com>
Fecha: Martes 14 de Julio de 1998 06:22 PM
Asunto: Re: Where to buy POR 15?

>At the risk of sounding ignorant.  What is POR15?

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 20:44:09
Subject: V-8

>>I've heared of motors running on electricity and fuel, but never V8....?
>>NL
>Ohh, I get it, 
>more of this USA-British diferent languages stuff!!

Depends on how much cabbage, onions etc were in the V8  8^).

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 02:23:13 +0100
Subject: unusual tread wear

Hi folks

While looking round my 1973 SIII 88" i noticed that the front passengerside
wheel was unusually low on tread - compared with back, the drivers side was
lowish but not as much as the other side. So. Can this be attribited to
tracking off, or also because the springs are knackered. When looking from
the back i noticed that the drivers side one is more flat then curvey. Does
that mean that the flat one is the worst one? or is it the other.

What are the different sizes between a S3 rim and a disco rim?

GFN

Elwyn
S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:11:33 -0400
Subject: Wiper park

The park position of the wiper motor on series 3 's can be changed by taking
the cover of the wiper motor gearbox part and moving the park cam plate thro
180 degrees. The same motor is used on many differenmt vehicles and the park
cam can readily be moved.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 22:16:59 -0400
Subject: 109 brakes

 John writes from Bangkok re  brake problems with a 109. It is unlikey that
your problems are with the servo,  more likely with the brakes in general,
take it down to Pah pong and have them fixed there, I am sure that one of
the traders will have the parts. 

Herewith Bleedin 109 brakes.

  The complication with 109 brakes is that the fluid inlet/outlet
connections on the front wheel cylinders are on the horizontal centre line.
It is thus easy for air to be trapped ABOVE the fliud  entry/ exit. and is
thus difficult to get it out ( the air ) 
 There are a variety of ways to do this, ranging from turning the vehicle on
its side  ( one side at a time ) thro pressure bleeders etc etc.

 My proven technique is to proceed as follows.
 Remove the wheel and brake drum, nearest to the brake master cylinder, i.e.
the drivers side.
add a clear  pipe from the bleed screw into a receptacle
slacken off the brake shoe adjusters so maximum  cylinder travel can be obtained
place a lever against the rear brake shoe to prevent it from moving
 Have an assistant apply movement to the brake pedal to move  the front shoe
only, say about .3" . maintain pedal position
open the bottom bleed screw
push the front brake shoe back, thus expelling fluid and air through the
bottom cylinder close the bleed nipple.
repeat the exercise several times until only clear fluid is expelled from
the system. Note repeat several times, it may take two or three atempts to
clear the top cylinder. 
maintain the fluid level in the fluid reservoir.
 NB do not reuse the fliud, once it has passed through the system it becomes
aerated thus immediate re use justs adds air into the system. If it is
clean, leave it for a few days to settle and use the top of the fliud only,
the dirt will settle to the bottom of the container

Using a lever prevent the front shoe from moving and repeat the exercise
with the rear shoe.
Relace the drum, adjust the shoes and repeat the exercise at the other side

 If necessary bleed the rear brakes in the conventional manner.

Confusion is often experienced when the rear brake hose is clamped and the
pedal improves, this is because more fluid is available for the front
brakes, and not always  the usual indicator that  there is a problem with
the rears

 Hope this helps to clarify the position and my explanation is adequate.
 Happy bleedin
  
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 16:37:01 +0100
Subject: Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

I fitted a new relay to a new galvanised chassis recently, with the
circular plate that is held on  with four screws.
There is no movement of this relay  when the wheels are turned. I tried
it on axle stands with the engine running and the transmission in
4-wheel drive, ( to check balance and things before venturing forth!).
The only problem I had was with the holes in the chassis, I had to drill
and tap them before I could get the four screws to go in.

Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" IIA 2.25 petrol
Very sad Metro :-(
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/Tony4star/
http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/landys/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
(Details will appear as time allows)

------------------------------

From: Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 09:59:50 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: All the right (steering relay) moves 

David Hope Wrote:
:: I suppose that the hole in the relacement frame piece is simply too large in
:: diameter.  Does anyone have ideas about how I can get rid of this annoying
:: play in the relay.

Terje Suggested:
: Seriously though, maybe you could fit a thin metal plate around the relay
: to act as a kind of shim?

Hmm, My relay already has a shim around it to take up the play. I had assumed 
that this was a 'factory' option due to manufacturing tolerances. 

Maybe it was a SPOT, the SPO in this case possibly being the British Military 
!! 

The shim is brass, about 15mm wide, 1mm thick, tapered at both ends and 
encircles the top of the relay for about 270 degrees.

Shimmed or unshimmed that is the question ?

Cheers,

Paul 

------------------------------

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