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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 8:42:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height...parabolics are the answer

I have just installed parabolic springs all 'round on my 109 station 
wagon, and I couldn't be happier with them. The four leaf rear springs 
are complete overkill, but I'm gonna live with 'em. The rear now sits at 
the very limit of the axle check straps, and after I put on some 
longer-travel shock units, it'll sit even higher when I remove the 
straps. The diesel filler is about nipple--high now. These springs are 
rated to take a load of 2750 KILOS ! I believe it. If I ever take a 
second job transporting depleted uranium fuel rods, the Rover'll 
certainly be up to the task. The front end is about 1.5 inches higher 
than stock on the standard two-leaf units. Wow. All you heavy-haulers out 
there plan on warming up your checkbook for a set of Paul's wonderful 
springs. Dormobile and Carawagon owners should fit these as a mattter of 
course.
The ride is a bit on the stiff side, but still very comfortable. Doesn't 
lean either way, and due to the nature of these things, probably never 
will.
See 'em at Greek peak.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:58:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Start Me Up

Wes,

Welcome back from the Benning School for Wayward Boys!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:59:29 -0500
Subject: RE: "V8 powered motors"  ???

>I've heared of motors running on electricity and fuel, but never V8....?
>NL

Ohh, I get it, 
more of this USA-British diferent languages stuff!!

------------------------------

From: Leger Marc-Andre <ma.leger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 11:10:21 -0400
Subject: Canadian imports

There was a question last week about importing a Land Rover to Canada
before bringing it to the USA.

For Info on importing a car to Canada You can call ACIS (Automated
Customs Information service) locally in the following cities: 

Calgary, Alberta              (403) 292-8750         
Edmonton, Alberta             (403) 495-3400         
Halifax, Nova Scotia          (902) 426-2911         
Hamilton, Ontario             (905) 308-8715         
Moncton, New Brunswick        (506) 851-7020         
Montréal, Quebec              (514) 283-9900         
Ottawa, Ontario               (613) 993-0534         
Québec, Quebec                (418) 648-4445         
Toronto, Ontario              (416) 973-8022         
Vancouver,  British Columbia  (604) 666-0545         
Windsor, Ontario              (519) 257-6400         
Winnipeg, Manitoba            (204) 983-6004         

If you are outside of the local calling area, you can access ACIS free
of charge throughout Canada by calling 
1 - 800 - 461 - 9999. 

The code for the category "Importing a motor vehicle" is 1120. 

Also there is a provincial requirement for the province you bring in to,
but it only applies if you intend to get "tags" for to be able to drive
it. These requirement vary from province to province.  For Quebec, my
province of origin, this info can be found at http://www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca
<http://www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca>   but it's all in french ! Quebec does have
very simple requirements... you should see some of the cars on the road
there !!!  I have a friend who returned to Canada from Europe a few
years ago (4 or 5) with an '86 Mustang (not made in Canada) purchased in
Germany, with no problems.

I'll see if I can find some info in english.

This assumes that you are a canadian citizen, if you are not I'm not
sure what the issues would be ! but as I have mentionned, it could be
possible to pay someone in Canada to act as an intermediate. If you have
work done there (restoration) the mecanic would probably accept to be an
intermediate for you... As you can get a good restorer in Canada for
about 20$CAN an hour, or about 14$US, this may be a good option. I just
had my Lightweight fully restored near Montreal by a person charging
that price who did an excellent job... and saved a lot compared to doing
the work in the USA. 

Info on US DOT importation restrictions (airbags and so) are available
from http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov <http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov>  , state
requirements may vary, of course, but in my experience they require a
form from Customs, a certificate of conformity and a certificate from
the manufacturer. Of course as someone has stated this may vary it the
vehicle is more than 25 years old, but you will need to prove this !

Hope this helps...

Marc-Andre Leger

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 11:52:32 EDT
Subject: Re: 83 Rangie Brothers

Ray: I will forward a copy of my earlier reply.
Regarding parts, I buy the most from a supplier in the UK when I know in
advance exactly what I need. Having the Parts Catalogue is a must. Usually
have the stuff in hand a week or so after ordering by email or phone. 
 For "need-it-tomorrow" I would contact DAP or Rovers North, in that order. I
dont have much experience with the others, although I have used Atlantic
British in the past for some items. I find their prices currently in the
Rovers North range, without the benefit. I am thinking about SICP for some
brake parts. Another company is Nisonger, who generally sell to shops, but I
have a friend who owns a sports car restoration company and I could order
through him.
   Regarding the swivels, I replaced the swivel seals, checked the play in the
swivel joints, replaced the hub bearings and seals, and overhauled the brakes
within the first month of ownership. That was 50K miles ago. Do it all at once
and get it over with. I still use 90wt, so call me old fashioned. I'll have to
give it some more thought (some other day...)
   I replaced the points with a Crane XR-700 about 18 months ago. So far, its
been great. An easy conversion. Replace the cap and wires too. Stock Lucas
works for me. Bad wires are a common cause of misfire on the V8.
 Regarding the sills. You might find some good used ones, but since they
require welding they'd have to be cut off ther donor. Probably better to buy
new. In which case I would seriously inquire of UK sources first.
Its not surprising that you would get a better response on the lro list. By
dint of the age of their rides they have to be more technically oriented. I
prefer that list myself, even though I sold my Series 2A four years ago.
 A Gray (or Grey) Market Owners Group (GMOG?) sounds interesting. Lets see who
else is in. Cheers, Andy

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:58:49 -0700
Subject:  It won't stop... / Cold Start

Hi Ian,  Didn't see any responses to your queries from Friday so thought
I would chime in...

Solex Cold Start:
This is basically a second throttle body that is set provide a very rich
mixture, unlike a choke which operates by restricting the air flow into
a carbs main throttle body, thereby enriching the mixture.  Pulling on
the cold start cable opens or shuts off this throttle body from the main
throttle.

My 1961 SII also had problems running without the cold start on.  I
found the main problem to be MANY vacuum leaks around the intake system.
Make sure that all of your manifold to head, carb to manifold bolts are
tight and any gaskets are in good shape.  Check all of the fittings in
the intake manifold for leaks.  The throttle shaft on my Solex is very
worn, allowing air to leak in around the shaft.  I am trying to get this
re-bored as we speak.  Check this area by spraying a bit of carb cleaner
on the outside of the carb with the engine running.  If the carb cleaner
gets sucked into a leak,  the idle will pick up noticeably -
momentarily.  A vacuum gauge help too.

Shutting it off:
There definitely should be a key in the circuit. (At least I am assuming
that there are keys in Series Ones, I've never actually been in one!)
The key would only energize the ignition circuit.  The starter button
only turns over the motor.  Turning off the key kills the power to the
coil, thereby shutting off the motor.  The ignition key should be in the
middle of the dash panel.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 98 09:08:43 -0700
Subject: RE: "V8 powered motors"  ???

>>I've heared of motors running on electricity and fuel, but never V8....?
>>NL
;
;>Ohh, I get it, 
;>more of this USA-British diferent languages stuff!!

V8 is a brand of tomatoe juce based vegatable drink.  I think he was 
refering to it as a fuel source for cars.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 98 09:10:56 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height...parabolics are the answer

>I have just installed parabolic springs all 'round on my 109 station 
>wagon, and I couldn't be happier with them. 
;
<SNIP>

;>See 'em at Greek peak.

Bill Please look me up at the British Pacific booth.  I would very much 
like to take a look at those new springs of yours.  They are on my list 
of mods once I get employed and a positive cash flow going.

Thanks!

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:22:49 -0700
Subject: Snail Cam Size

Well, my vehicle has now been sitting in the local British Car repair
shop for about three weeks.  As of last Friday, all they had done was
replace one last rusty brake pipe, and rebuilt one sized wheel cylinder.
(the only one that I didn't replace myself...).  As some of you may
remember, I am having problems keeping any brake pedal pressure when
actually moving.  After two weeks at the shop with little activity, the
mechanic finally came to the same conclusion.  Put on your best west
midlands accent: "I can't get it to keep a f*cking pedal!"  he says.
Well duh...   They left a dead leg bracket on the pedal overnight and it
held its pressure fine, but roll the car forward and it's gone.

Anyway, they decided to start at the beginning and at the top by
rebuilding the (new) master cylinder.  This didn't help.  Then they
found that they couldn't adjust the shoes out far enough to lock the
wheel, even with new pads.  The drums are not oversize.

Now they are looking at the snail cams.  The ones on the car look okay,
but I provided them with a snail cam kit that I bought from Paddocks in
Britain just in case.  There are definitely two different sized of snail
cams in the kit.  One is black metal, the other is anodized (gold
coloured).  I cannot find a reference in the manual for different sized
snail cams.  Should I fit the larger ones?  Anybody know why there are
two sizes?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88.  'in the shop'
Victoria, BC  Canada
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:32:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Snail Cam Size

In a message dated 7/13/98 12:28:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Paul_Quin@pml.com writes:

<< I cannot find a reference in the manual for different sized
 snail cams.  Should I fit the larger ones?  Anybody know why there are
 two sizes?
  >>

Hi Paul,

If it is the same kit I had (and it sounds like it is), this kit fits several
vehicles, not just Land Rover.  The instructions actually stated which cam
goes with the rover and also which side of the backing plate the spring goes
on.  I saved the insert from mine and will send on the info from it when I get
home this evening.

Nate

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:33:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Snail Cam Size

One more thing Paul:

Are you sure you got the wheel cylinders on the correct wheels?  Front and
rear have different diameter bores.   

Nate

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 09:51:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Snail Cam & wheel cyclinder size.

Thanks in advance for the info Nate!  I didn't get any instructions with
my kit...

I put the bigger wheel cylinders on the front, small ones on the rear.
This makes sense as 70% of the stopping power comes from the front
brakes.

Paul Quin
Victoria.

------------------------------

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:51:17 -0500
Subject: RE: "V8 powered motors"  ???

I know TeriAnn, what I mean is calling "motors" to cars-trucks by the
British.
:-)
-----Mensaje original-----
De: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Para: lro@playground.sun.com <lro@playground.sun.com>
Fecha: Lunes 13 de Julio de 1998 10:09 AM
Asunto: RE: "V8 powered motors" ???

>>>I've heared of motors running on electricity and fuel, but never V8....?
>>>NL
>;
>;>Ohh, I get it,
>;>more of this USA-British diferent languages stuff!!
>V8 is a brand of tomatoe juce based vegatable drink.  I think he was

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
>Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:36:39 EDT
Subject: For Sale - Series Parts

To all,

Have the following for sale -

Series III clutch set (plate, disk, throwout bearing) $175.00
Rear Bench Seat Bottom (New) $50.00
Left and Right Door Tops (New) $125.00

All prices plus shipping.

Miscellaneous used stuff including engine, transmission/transfer, steering box
and shaft, diff.

Please e-mail direct:  lodelane@aol.com

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 14:43:25 EDT
Subject: Billing

Only 18 posts on the list today!!

Does this mean a lot of members have set out for Billing already. I should be
there Sunday only with the hybrid on the Lightweight owners club stand. Come
and look me up (mine is the one with yellow wheels).

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:26:33 +0100
Subject: Re: V8 Pwrd Motors

In message <bulk.20669.19980712162248@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, David
Scheidt <david@infocom.com> writes
>On Sun, 12 Jul 1998, Elwyn York wrote:
>> PS. Is there a V8 Defender? apart from the specials?
>yup.  The NAS defenders all have V8s in them.  There were V8 110s, I don't
>know if there have been any (non-NAS) 90s with V8s.  

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>know if there have been any (non-NAS) 90s with V8s.  
>David

There are loads of V8 90`s about you just have to weed them out. There are a
couple of factory built 90 V8`s in the Staffs and Shrops who RTV regular.-- 
andy Smith

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 16:35:04 -0500
Subject: New steering relay moves in the cross member

I recently checked over my steering components and noticed that there is
some play in the bottom of the steering relay.  When I moved the wheels I
can see the base of the relay move from side to side.

The relay came from British Pacific and is fitted to an after market front
frame piece which came from DAP.  I suppose that the hole in the relacement
frame piece is simply too large in diameter.  Does anyone have ideas about
how I can get rid of this annoying play in the relay.

David Hope
64 llA

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 20:13:02 +1000
Subject: Straps

christopher seaman  asks:

>Can anyone help me concerning what appears to be a pair of
>canvas straps that run underneath the rear axle from the chassis.

>2, Apart from restricting axle articulation, what do they do,

You got it.  The prevent the drive shaft coming off the splines at full
articulation.

Some say they are highly desirable.

Pat wrote:
>Oh well, let's hear it from the strapless crowd (No parade references,
>please, Ron...)

I wouldn't dream of it.  However, I was looking at Sally from 3rd Rock From
the Sun and think how nice she looked strapless.  Her front suspension
seemed to articulate quite nicely.  (Ring 800-555-RonB to complain about
sexist jokes).

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 20:07:14 +1000
Subject: Re the 90hp 4 cylinder

re British taxes on motor vehicles, I recall that initally the tax was based
on RAC HP which is a fairy tale way of determining the power e.g. my old
1938 Vauxhall model J was a 6-cylinder 14hp car of about 2 litre capacity.

RAC HP was based upon engine bore diameters.  That's one reason British
motors were small bore diameters with long stroke.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 20:10:38 +1000
Subject: Lightweights

Elwyn York wrote:

>... and annoucned it was  a ffr due to all the holes in the wings etc
>for radio antennaus?  but a, its 12v system, b, it doesnt have the rest
>of the stuff associated and c, i dont think there is enough holes for
arials.

I always thought FFRs were 24v too.  Until I went to a wreckers  last year
and found an ex-Australian Army FFR (on the plate too) but it was definitely
12 V.  I check the alternator and the light globes.  Maybe the Australian
Army FFRs were different to British Army FFRs.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 19:52:47 +1000
Subject: whitworth wrenches

From: David Scheidt  wrote:

>As where to buy these infernal things comes up from time to time,  I
>thought I would pass along that Moss motors have Whitworth

Just to annoy you, David.  I went to a local junk shop on Saturday and
noticed they had boxes of spanners and sockets,  Many in Whitworth sizes at
50 cents each.

Ron

------------------------------

From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 20:15:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Start Me Up

At 10:58 AM 7/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Wes,
>Welcome back from the Benning School for Wayward Boys!
>Larry Smith
>Chester, VA

Hey, thanks Larry!  Actually, I was just at the PA Army Nat'l Guard's
Imitation Grunt College...  In all actuality, it was surprisingly
high-speed!!  Very happy to be home and wrenching on my forlorn 88 again...

Cheers,
Wes Harris
'64 88 SW

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 21:29:53 EDT
Subject: Snail Cam Size Info

Hi Paul,

OK.  The instructions state for Short wheel base models:

Looking at the backing plate: Black Cam, yellow washer, silver spacer, spring
then backing plate.

If you like, I can email you a copy of the diagram.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Mark Oliver <user@company.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:10:03 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

TeriAnn wrote:
> The Green Rover is about 4800 pounds unloaded, with 5 gallons of
> petrol.  Fully loaded with 42 gallons of petrol 15 gallons of water,
> camping gear, food, the wolfhound and myself, the car weighs about
> 5200 pounds.

What's the reason for a 15 gal water tank?  Is it drinking water that
you're carrying?

-Kent (An inquiring mind wants to know)
'82 Series 3, Stage 1

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 98 22:40:43 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

>TeriAnn wrote:
>> The Green Rover is about 4800 pounds unloaded, with 5 gallons of
;>> petrol.  Fully loaded with 42 gallons of petrol 15 gallons of water,
;>> camping gear, food, the wolfhound and myself, the car weighs about
;>> 5200 pounds.
;>What's the reason for a 15 gal water tank?  Is it drinking water that
;>you're carrying?

Correct, it is my drinking water supply.  I used to carry plastic bottles 
inside or on top of the car.  I now have a stainless steel water tank.  
It fits under the side bench of the 109 two door between the left rear 
wheel and the left under seat fuel tank.  It sits on an outrigger and has 
a flange around the top that sits on the top of the side bench.  This 
allows me to carry the equivelent of three water jerry cans at frame 
level without taking up any space in the car.  The tank fills from the 
outside.  I have an electric water pump that provides water to my two 
sinks.

I have a five gallon propane tank in the same place under the right side 
bench.

         | TeriAnn Wakeman
         | twakeman@cruzers.com
         | http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
         |
         | "The Green Rover"
         | 1960 109 two door
         | Expidition equipped
         |
         | _______     ____
      .==|"======="==='    `=============.
     /   |	                               \
     | ._|_______________________________. |
     |/  |    	___________________	    .. \|
    ,|___|____/ _________________ \____||__|,       
     | .-|-. | |	                | | .-||. |
     | | | | | |	                |'%,||||| |	
     | | | | | |                	| | ||||| |	
 _   | | | | | |_________________| | ||||| |  _	
(_)  | | | | |                    	| ||||| | (_)
   \ | `-|-' |        	==	        '% ||||' |/
   ,'====|===|=====================|=||||===` 
   |(o)  | 0||	        ||	        ||0||||(o)|
   |(o)  o  ||	        ||	        || ||||(o)|
   ||   ==  ||	        ||        	|| ||||  ||
   ||  ____ ||	        ||	        || ||||__||
   || |7050|||        	||	        || |____/||
   ||  ---- ||_________||_________||   ||  ||
   ||_______|______________________|___||__||
   | |	    |	        | _ |	         |	    | |
   |_|_____|_________[ - ]__________|_____|_| 
    | Land  |~~~~~~~~'~~~.___/~~~~ | Land  |
    |   /   |                      |   /   |
    | Rover |	                     | Rover |
    |_______|                    	 |_______|
     |\\~//|	                       |\\~//|
     |_\_/_|	                       |_\_/_|

  [Key -Dormobile top, military bummperettes,
   rear whip antenna, vertical rear mounted 
   hiLift jack, tail gate, side hinged lift gate]

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:43:44 -0700
Subject: Re: 109 Ride Height

Oh, TeriAnn, tell the truth - you think you only add 400# worth of fuel,
gear and living beings................hahahahahahaha...........lets see
42X6=252#'s fuel, 15X8=120#'s H2O - that leaves about 130#'s for you and the
doggie.

I added 600#+ and Alexander weighs less than your Wolfhound - gees, I'll bet
you have 120#'s in that roof rack - what about the spares, tools, extra
battery, camping gear, shower, food, fridge, camera gear - didn't you used
to carry a spare diff?

I have got to call you on this one, you better run that beasty over a scale
:-)

I, for one would like an honest weight from a women - at least about her
transportation :-)))

Your other option, of course, is NEVER to discuss weights openly.

Cheers
David - wishing I could keep it to 400# with fuel, water, spares, camping
gear and living beings. -
Full-time father of a 3.5 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:05:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: New steering relay moves in the cross member

On Mon, 13 Jul 1998, David Hope wrote:

> frame piece is simply too large in diameter.  Does anyone have ideas about
> how I can get rid of this annoying play in the relay.

You could let it rust for, say, 25 years. That ought to cure the problem.
Seriously though, maybe you could fit a thin metal plate around the relay
to act as a kind of shim?

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 11:11:08 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Snail Cam Size Info

On Mon, 13 Jul 1998 NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> Looking at the backing plate: Black Cam, yellow washer, silver spacer, spring
> then backing plate.

If this is the same kit as the one I bought through Mismatch... err...
Bearmach, you might find that the new snails are fractionally smaller
than the originals. Yes, I'm sure I'm using the right snail. The
difference is hardly noticable, but is enough to make sure you
change the brake shoes before the lining is completely worn out. I guess
this is some sort of marketing ploy to make you buy more shoes,
preferably from the dealer that sold you the snails :-)

Apart from that, the snails work nicely on my 88". A word of warning
to the 109" crowd though: I haven't been able to verify this myself,
but apparently there is a mistake in the instructions that
might cause you to mount one of the spacers for the rear snails
on the wrong side of the back plate. If you do so, the snails have
a tendency to end up on the inside of the post on the shoes, rather
than against them. As I have an 88", I don't know if this is true,
can anyone else verify this?

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 17:34:19 +0700
Subject: Wiper Motor

Hope a reader or readers can help me with this. I have a 1975 SIII 109. I
reinstalled my wiper motor and the cable assembly along with the wheel
boxes. First time around I accidently installed the cable on the topside of
both wheel boxes so that both wipers would move in the same direction, and
the wiper on the right side of the LR (passenger side on US models) would
be in the normal park position, and operate normally, but the left side
(driver's side on US models) would have to be parked to the outside of the
windshield as it would swing in the same direction as the right side wiper.
I then realized that the cable installation was wrong and changed that. The
cable on the right side rides on top of the wheel box, and rides underneath
the left wheelbox (again-left-right as above). Now the wipers turn towards
each other, but Park in the up position! In other words, if I installed the
wipers in the normal parked position and turned the motor on they would try
to proceed down below the window frame. I don't understand how changing the
cable position could possibly change the park position, even for the
wheelbox which remains the same. Formerly the right side wiper would park
and operate normally, and I did not change the cable/wheelbox relationship
for that side. Is it possible to adjust or change the motor park position?
If I could do that everything would be OK. Have I done something else to
goof it up? I have tried to describe this as best I can, but it is
difficult to work out even when the LR is in front of me. Would appreciate
any advice/tips, as it is now the rainy season here!

Regards,

John M. Baker
Bangkok

------------------------------

From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 17:39:03 +0700
Subject: Lockheed Servo

Can I ask two questions in one day? I have a 1975 SIII with a remote
Lockheed brake servo, with a single master cylinder (not a tandem system).
I have replaced all brake components and rebuilt the servo, and have been
unable to bleed the system properly as the brakes are still spongy. I
understand that the LR system is hard to bleed, but in addition to the
normal difficultly, I read in the archives that the remote servo unit has
to be bled as well, twice in fact. Can anyone tell me the sequence/drill
for bleeding my brake system described above. I should point out that there
is no bleed nipple on the cylinder attached to the servo unit, unlike some
I have seen pictures of.

Thanks in advance for any help.

John M. Baker
Bangkok

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