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From: Philip and Aimee Houser <pahouser@fidnet.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 08:06:24 -0500
Subject: RE: front end alignment q's

   Don't blow thew cash - do it yourself.

>Do you find that you get good enough accuracy? I would think with a tape
 measure that getting down to a few mm's would be very tough. I have thought
 about attaching my depth gauge doohickey to a stiff stick and checking
 things that way between the insides of the wheels, but various components
 get in the way!

 Thanks,

 Clayton

~~~~~~~ It is recomended that when doing toe-in measuring that you only
	roll forward to keep all the parts loaded the same as if you were
	driving. - unless you spend most of your time driving
	backward! :-b
	    I made a jig out of some steel conduit.  A long (about 7ft/2m)
	horizontal piece is connected to 2 short (about 8in/20cm) vertical
	pieces at the ends.  I used electrical junction boxes and fittings
	to connect it together.  At the top of the short pieces is a screw
	run through both sides of the "pipe".  The point of the screw is
	used to mark a hole in a small piece of masking tape on the
	tire/tyre.
	     In use; I lay the jig on the ground behind the front
	tires/tyres with the short pieces pointing up and the screw points
	poking the tires/tyres.  I put a small piece of masking tape on the
	tire/tyre to mark the poke.  I then remove the jig, roll the car
	forward, put the jig in _front_ of the tires/tyres, stick one point
	in a tape mark and look at the other piece of tape and measure the
	toe-in by measuring the distance between the tape mark on that tire/
	tyre and the screw point.

	I hope that made at least a _little_ bit of sense!!

			Philip

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 09:23:24 EDT
Subject: Re:  Spare Time

In a message dated 7/8/98 1:54:38 AM, you wrote:

>I really avoid asking people what they do with their spare time.
. .

What's that? 

You *do* drive a LR don't you?

--pat
(LR daily driver; no spare time...)

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 09:46:03 EDT
Subject: Re:  4ft x 2.756435 metres

In a message dated 7/8/98 3:56:49 AM, you wrote:

>Land Rover content: I also bought some marine ply from him for my roofrack
>(4ft x 2.756435 metres)

I too have marine ply on my roof rack (110 w/3/4 rack). I put it up 2+ years
ago, and it is still good.  I chose marine ply (i think it is at least 1/2
inch thick) because it was easier to attach than any of the metals like
aluminum sheet or expanded metal and because it is also easier to attach
things to. I was easily able to attach pad-eyes, rings, other peices of wood,
etc. i just used some epoxy and screws/bolts wherever I needed. The plywood is
attached to the rack with hoseclamps around the perimiter and that has held
well over the years as well.

Probably the greatest benefit I got from the plywood being there was using it
as a sleeping platform while I was in New Mexico, the dog hated it because he
couldn't get up there without a forklift ;-)

Before I placed the wood up there, I treated it with Thompsons Water Seal, the
stuff people put on their homes' wodden decks to shed standing water. Even
with marine ply it really helped considering the untreated surface of the ply,
in the sun/rain environment. My other options were resin coat or varnish, but
I don't have the wood dash to match... and the cost more.

Today I think I will take the whole rack off in preparation for my trip up
north. I may have to fit into some garages or other height-restricted
places... I've already torn down one garage door and front wall by accident.
ooops. I rarely feel the need to carry cargo up there anymore, and would
rather have PAP bolted down over the roof, at least it is thinner and will
provide some form of shade... which the plywood also does.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 10:33:00 -0400
Subject: FW: S11A Headlining-Roof Vents?

The headlining is 120 quid for SWB (140 with radia/speaker housing) Door
trims are 80 a pair , so shipping is good chunk of the cost.
Anyone in the Southern Ontario/New York regions interested in a joint
shipment?
See details of the trim at http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim
 ----------
From: LaSalle
Subject: Re: S11A Headlining-Roof Vents?
Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 9:49AM

Trevor Easton wrote:

 I am interested in your SII headlining. I have an 88'' station Wagon
 with a tropical top and four roof vents. The picture on your web site
 doesn't show any holes for the vents. Do you have a roof vent version or
 must the holes be cut? What is shipping cost to Canada? How does
 shipping price vary with quantities for this light but bulky item?

 Regards
 Trevor Easton
 Grimsby, Ontario

Hi Trevor

Thank you for your E Mail.  Yes, the roof vents do have to be cut out,
and the photo on the web is how they look once they have been cut.

Shipping costs are about £150.00.  For this price you could have
headlining, sides and door trims for the same price, or two headlinings.
So if you know anyone else who wants trim it would save alot of
carraige.  The carraige mentioned is by air freight.

If you should need anything further please do not hesitate to contact
us.

regards
Clive Newman

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 12:15:00 EDT
Subject: Water pump question

Hi all,

Just curious, on the old SIII water pump, the fan hub is a square thing with
threaded bolt holes at the corners.  In the rebuild kit, the hub is a disc
shaped piece instead.  Bolt holes line up so it shouldn't be a problem putting
the fan on but I'm curious if SIII's (and late SIIa) originally had a square
fan hub.  (My SII is a disc shaped hub but the pump housing is different and I
suspect things could have changed).

Nate

------------------------------

From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 10:51:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Flywheel question??

Hello,
        I've almost finished the assembly of my new Turner motor.  The Land
Rover shop manual calls for a dial gauge to examine the flywheel surface on
reassembly to the motor.  Is this necessary if the flywheel has been
properly resurfaced?  There isn't any room for adjustment on the flywheel
... it simply bolts up.  Thanks....

                                                        Hank Stinson
                                                         '73 SWB Shed

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 10:52:23 -0700
Subject: Re: British Pacific

Wolfe, Charles wrote:
> I want to clear the air.  I was not complaining about BP but rather
> trying to gather other experience with this vendor.  I just  started 
> to deal with them and I wanted to get more input.  I will say that my
> telephone experience with BP was excellent.  
8<

Here's my experience:  I've spent over $5K with these guys, and they are
truly wonderful.  They are almost always cheaper than RN and the
shipping (since I'm in the SF Bay area) is usually overnight.  They
have, on one occasion, sent me the wrong part.  It was a water temp
sender, but that's what I asked for (it was mechanical, so there was no
temp sender, but rather a whole integrated unit).  It's true that RN
would have reminded me that based on the year of my car, I needed a
whole guage and not just a sender, but BP doesn't keep your cars in
their database yet.  Also, the vast majority (about 90%) of the parts
I've gotten from them were genuine--without me asking.  When I ordered
U-bolts from them, they told me I had a choice of genuine or a/m, and
told me that TeriAnn had some problems with the a/m in the past.

Here's a price comparison:

BP had the Defender bonnet spare mount for about $79.  I wanted one
because I have a set of Michelin XCLs and wanted to carry two spares
when I was using them.  BP had them back ordered.  So, I called RN to
see if they had it in stock.  They did.  Their price:  $279!!!!!!  I
asked for a list of included parts, and called BP again.  They listed
the parts (all genuine, BTW), and the list was *exactly the same*!!!  I
decided I didn't need the bonnet mount that fast.  I'm definitely *not*
saying that BP is always that much cheaper than RN, but my GOD.  That's
gouging.

Also, I went through a situation with them where I thought they were
sending me bad Lucas starters.  I got three, and none of them would
crank the engine over.  They were very patient with me as I went through
this, and even sent more startes after they suggested that the problem
was the battery.  Since it was recently replaced, I said it couldn't be
the battery.  Guess what?  It was the battery (no more Excide for me!). 
They were very gracious through the whole thing.

C

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 13:57:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Flywheel question??

In a message dated 7/8/98 1:53:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hstin@cts.com
writes:

<<   I've almost finished the assembly of my new Turner motor.  The Land
 Rover shop manual calls for a dial gauge to examine the flywheel surface on
 reassembly to the motor.  Is this necessary if the flywheel has been
 properly resurfaced?   >>

It is my understanding that the dial gauge examination is to determine if
resurfacing is necessary.  Since you've gone and done it, I would skip the
dial gauge test.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "Alan Bishop" <alan@owls-house.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 19:34:24 +0100
Subject: Re: Seatbelts on a series

This should probably be aimed at 'The Stockdales' really but anyone is
welcome to comment if they so wish.

I have been reading this thread about seatbelts with interest as this is the
next job on my series 2A (and the S3 when running). Can you give me more
details on this solution. I am looking at fitting racing belts which will be
3 or 4 point (but I don't know best). Does this solution put more strain on
the belts than they are designed for? I know that they give various angles
which are ideal for mounting etc.

Also if I used 3 point belts (mainly because I have a roll cage to go in
sometime in the future - needs welding and new spacers etc - so not until
funds are available!) is just one mounting onto the bulkhead enough?

Also I would much appreciate more details on the best fixing points for the
side straps etc.

Any details anyone can supply will be much appreciated.

TIA

Regards

Alan.

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 15:38:05 EDT
Subject: The 90 hp 4 cyl.

On Tue, 7 Jul 1998, John Hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us> wrote: "I got my 6
rebuilt and felt the extra power quite noticable.  ...  Normally, I pull
away from 4 cylinder rovers on hills; not this one.  ...  We were about even
in performance."

When you compare the performance of a stock 2.6 six to a tweaked 2.286 four,
the tiny 312cc difference in displacement will not make as much difference
as will the tuning.

As engines go, the 2.286 is large for a four cylinder engine.  It is also a
very robust design compared to the 2.6 which is small for a six and does not
seem as durable.

It remains a mystery why Land Rover did not produce a six cylinder version
of the 2.286 four instead of destroking their much older, F head, 3 liter.
They would then have had a decent 3.5 six which was just what the North
American market needed.

Displacement of British car engines seems to have had more to do with tax
structure on the rainy island than on the needs of the export market.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover Dormobile, 4 cylinder.
Applying hindsight to critique 35 year old designs.

------------------------------

From: "Keith Cutler Family" <cutler_family@ibm.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 21:59:13 -0600
Subject: Broken Thermostat Housing--Do I Need a New Cylinder Head?

Tonight's work on the frame-off of my '60 SWB Petrol included removing the
outlet pipe from the cylinder head.  I discovered that the front of the
cylinder head, where the third threaded hole is, was broken off some time in
the past twenty years or more since the vehicle was running.  There is
slightly more than 50% of the threaded hole remaining, what with the front
half of the alloy surrounding the threaded hole missing.

I'd planned on reconditioning the cylinder head with new valve seats, a
shave to provide 8:1 compression, etc., but I'd hate to do that work if the
outlet pipe won't seal properly with 2 1/2 bolts worth of torque.  I don't
know how I could fix the broken part of the cylinder head.  Should I just
get another cylinder head and consider it well spent "peace of mind" money?
Anybody have a fix they can recommend?

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
Former M reg Discovery V8i owner (while living in Beaconsfield, South Bucks)
and future driver of the family heirloom (or piece of junk, depending on the
point of view) SII.

------------------------------

From: Arthur Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 00:29:12 -0400
Subject: Looking for Timm Cooper, Richard Chala

Greetings,

Anyone know the whereabouts of Timm Cooper (Oregon) or Richard Chala (CA). I
have lost track of both and need info on my Series V8 transplant. Telephone
numbers or email addresses would be helpful.

Please email me directly.

Art
'72 LR S3 88
'69 TR6 PI
Boston, MA  USA

------------------------------

From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 22:19:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Darwin awards

Where I work, our safety office puts out monthly Darwin awards to keep
their briefings from being stale. Sorry for the cross post, just had
to share this one. For everyone who ever thought they had a bad day at
work, this Darwin is for you;
Smitty

The Annual Darwin Award Part XVI

PADERBORN, GERMANY - Overzealous zookeeper Friedrich Riesfeldt fed his
constipated elephant Stefan 22 doses of animal laxative and more than
a bushel of berries, figs and prunes before the plugged-up pachyderm
finally let fly -- and suffocated the keeper under 200 pounds of poop!

Investigators say ill-fated Friedrich, 46, was attempting to give  the
ailing elephant an olive-oil enema when the relieved beast unloaded on
him like a dump truck full of mud.  "The sheer force of the elephant's
unexpected defecation knocked Mr. Riesfeldt to the ground, where he
struck his head on a rock and lay unconscious as the elephant
continued to evacuate his bowels on top  of him," said flabbergasted
Paderborn police detective Erik Dern.

"With no one there to help him, he lay under all that dung for at
least an hour before a watchman came along, and during that time he
suffocated.  It seems to be just one of those freak accidents that
happen"

------------------------------

From: Mark Perry <cmperry@autobahn.mb.ca>
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 02:24:55 +0000
Subject: axle breaking survey

I've been through two breaks in past five years, about two years apart. Both
when pulling away from a stoplight,  both the LH shaft, both at the diff end,
just outside the the splined end.
This is on 66 IIA petrol 88"  on which I am running LT235/85R16 tires (Cooper)
so I suppose the larger tire might have aggravated the problem.

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 03:29:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Darwin awards

My current favorite, is the guy that used a .22 long bullet, in place of a
blown headlight fuse in his pickup truck! (come on people - there's a reason
for fuses blowing...)

Of course, the "fuse" continued to heat up, until it ignited, striking the
driver where it hurts most! Thereby causing him to wreck the truck, further
injuring himself, and his passenger.

Charles
(ammunition cookoff can be a harsh mistress.)

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 03:58:32 EDT
Subject: Re: axle breaking survey

I've been through two breaks in 3 years, and one "almost".

The first two went, taking off from a stop sign: THE CAUSE was a dragging
brake, aggrivated by an elongated leaf spring locating hole, which in turn,
was caused by having the incorrect shock absorbers on the truck! (some of you
may remember this experience from last year)

The "almost", was only two months ago: the rear diff "crashed", and twisted
one of the axles (ironically, the short one), at the inner splines.

Upon doing the autopsy, I found: twisted axle
                                                two teeth broken off one
"spider" gear
                                                5 (yes - FIVE) crownwheel
bolts sheared!
                                                no oil in the diff!

Charles
P.S. the only part that hurt, was paying $40.00 for a new set of cronwheel
bolts, and having to drive to Burbank to get them (after being at BP the
previous day!) in traffic. They were the BSF bolts, rather than the UNF bolts
(of course).

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:04:48 +0100
Subject: Diesel Injectors

Does any one know the  correct firing pressure of the injectors for the 
series 3. I ask because I have access to the equipment to do this but do 
not know the figures. The local diesel recon place set them up on a rig 
after cleaning them and adjust them for the correct firing pattern at the 
correct pressure. Seems like money for old rope to me. I mean it takes 2 
minuets for ?20.00. The landy is now humming nicely< any advice on final 
tuning techniques would be appreciated.

Martin Lough
Frank W. Murphy Ltd
Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext. 245)
Fax: +44 1722 410088
Email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

Visit our website at: http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk

------------------------------

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