L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Joost Kramer [jkramer@be11Re: Mud
2 NADdMD@aol.com 22Re: Mud
3 Jan Schokker [janjan@xs432Re: Mud
4 "Huub Pennings" [hps@FS122Re: Mud
5 Marc-Andre Leger [ma2@we31WARN 12000 Winch
6 Joost Kramer [jkramer@be17Re: Mud
7 Jan Schokker [janjan@xs422Re: Mud
8 Peter Goundry [peterg@ai15Lightweight
9 "Saunders.Richard" [Rich18Billing 98
10 SPYDERS@aol.com 14I want my mug...
11 Lodelane@aol.com 13Fairey Hubs
12 Jett.Hogger@prodigy.com 13Mailing list archives Wolfe
13 Lawrence Lee [lawrencele40Re: Can't get into gear
14 john hess [jfhess@dcn.da41finsup
15 john hess [jfhess@dcn.da50BP and projects delayed
16 Peter Goundry [peterg@ai18Interesting piece of news
17 "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa50Re: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes
18 "Spencer K. C. Norcross"34Re: Fairey Hubs
19 "Clayton Kirkwood" [kirk24RE: front end alignment q's
20 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l17RE: front end alignment q's
21 MRogers315@aol.com 16Re-Anyone have on-board air?
22 SPYDERS@aol.com 25Re: Re-Anyone have on-board air?
23 Frankelson@aol.com 25Re: Mud
24 Benjamin Smith [bens@psa62British Pacific
25 "Wolfe, Charles" [CWolfe22RE: British Pacific
26 "The Stockdales" [mstock30Brake Shoes
27 "The Becketts" [hillman@23Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates
28 "The Becketts" [hillman@27I say, Chaps!
29 Dale Smith [smithdv1@yah43Re: I say, Chaps!
30 CIrvin1258@aol.com 21Re: British Pacific
31 DONOHUEPE@aol.com 23Re: Whitworth
32 Frankelson@aol.com 30Re: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates
33 Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuart@e29Re: Fairey Hubs
34 Frankelson@aol.com 37Re: Whitworth
35 Matt Wilson [GB50LR@zamb40GB50LR on air again this weekend.
36 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M12Re: Whitworth


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From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 13:44:09 +0200
Subject: Re: Mud

> a perfect rust environment.

But how do I get a power hose into the chassis to rise it?

Joost Kramer

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:52:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Mud

In a message dated 7/7/98 7:46:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jkramer@best.ms.philips.com writes:

<< > Use a power hose to get the mud out of your chassis, wet mud creates
 > a perfect rust environment.
 But how do I get a power hose into the chassis to rise it?
  >>
Hi Joost,

There are large holes in the bottom plate of the chassis rails.  Snake the tip
of a power washer up one of those and turn it loose.  On the right side, be a
bit careful since the rear electrical harness runs in there (From just under
the toewell, just behind where the brakeline junction sits to the rear of the
right rail).  If there are holes in the insulation, it could be exciting.

Nate

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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 13:58:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Mud

Dag Joost,

At 10:07 7-7-98 +0200, you wrote:

- snip - 
>Now I have two questions:
>1. Is it likely the front diff is filled with water, because I've simple
>breathers?
Water is heavier then oil. Just drain some oil from the diff. If it
contains water the answer is Yes.

>2. Yesterday I discovered lots of mud in the chasis (at the front). How
>do I get it out?
Use a garden hose and a lot of water. I suggest you take the rubber plug
out where the wiring goes into the frame behind the engine and point a hose
to the front. On my rover the big holes are in both chassisrails, so the
side without the wiring is easy.
It is very important that you clean it out thoroughly. I have had some rot
in the rear crossmember and the rear springhangers because they were filled
with wet mud.
I would advise everyone to check the drainholes in the springhangers every
now and then.
They were completely blocked.

Regards,
Jan.

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 14:06:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Mud

Hello Joost,

I have some very convenient holes which seem to be there for this 
situation. They are locate in my rear crossmember and are in line 
with the two main beams. If they were not there I would consider 
drilling them myself. Just shove in the garden hose and clean your 
driveway afterwards. I think it is worth while to drill these holes 
for this purpose since it gives you a good opportunity to do some 
rustprevention. Much better than having wet salt and mud laying in 
there for years. These holes can be used for applying waxoil as well!
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma2@wefa.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:17:11 -0400 
Subject: WARN 12000 Winch

I just got wind of a friend of my brother who has 4 Warn 12000 winches
for
sale, he used to own a towing company and went Belly-up but managed to
keep
a few toys... Anyway, if anyone is interested they are 900$ each + UPS
delivery... They where 5 and I got one...

This is a Killer winch...

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger       |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.           |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.              |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower      |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                    |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                  |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763         |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma@wefa.com     |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com    |
           )   (            | http://www.leger.qc.ca |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never
 tried anything new."  Albert Einstein 

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From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 14:12:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Mud

Thank you all for the hints and tips!
I'll rinse the chassis with lots of water. After it is dry again, a new wax oil
job would be nice.

> I would advise everyone to check the drainholes in the springhangers every
> now and then.

Are there drainholes from the chassis close to the bumper nuts? Or is this of
rust?

Joost Kramer

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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 14:28:38 +0200
Subject: Re: Mud

At 14:12 7-7-98 +0200, you wrote:
>Thank you all for the hints and tips!
>I'll rinse the chassis with lots of water. After it is dry again, a new

wax oil
>job would be nice.
>> I would advise everyone to check the drainholes in the springhangers every
>> now and then.
>Are there drainholes from the chassis close to the bumper nuts? Or is this of
>rust?

Sorry, what I meant was the rear springhangers. The drainholes for the
outriggers (front side of the rear spring) are in the springmount. Between
the two plates. At least on my SIII.

Jan.

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:41:43 -0400
Subject: Lightweight

Hi Elwyn, you can me to your list. I have a S3 73. It is currently in 
England and will be at Billings. My web site is at 
http://www.aircast.com/peterg . A photo of my beast casn be found 
under members rovers.

Best Cheers,

Peter Goundry
67 GS 109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

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From: "Saunders.Richard" <Richard.Saunders@haltoncollege.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:55:28 +0100 
Subject: Billing 98

Hi all Series Three Owners,

The Directors of the Series Three Owners Club Ltd and myself would welcome a
visit from Series Three Owners from around the world and UK, you do not have
to be a club member. Just come and enter your name and address in our
visitors book.

See you all at Billing

We will be at the club stand on Friday through to Sunday.

Richard Saunders

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:31:59 EDT
Subject: I want my mug...

August 98, Pl*yb*y, Page 163...  (Don't worry, it is Rated PG-13)

Looks like the back end of Jim Pappas' LR maybe...  ooops, it is a *rare* IIa,
so maybe it is one of Kellogg's LRs.

I want a mug...

--pat.

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:40:00 EDT
Subject: Fairey Hubs

I am trying to disassemble a set of Fairey freewheeling hubs on a '73 Series
III.  I have taken out the stop screw from the selector cap, but can't figure
out how to get the selector cap off the hub.  Any help figuring this one out
would be appreciated.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: Jett.Hogger@prodigy.com (MR JOHN M ROSSI)
Date: Tue,  7 Jul 1998 09:53:16, -0500
Subject: Mailing list archives Wolfe

Hello Charlie.   Have notice your posts and last name (Wolfe).  My 
mother's brith name is Wolfe.  Do you have any kin in upstate N.Y.  
Columbia co.  I live in NW ga..  good luck,  John Rossi   Flintstone, 
GA

____
John  Rossi

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From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:14:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Can't get into gear

For all those that wrote to advice, Thank you for your effort.

Due to the months of sitting in the sun and rain, the clutch plate is
seized (probably rust) and that is why it won't get in gear.

Attempted one of those "third leg" manoeuvre as detailed in the
archives for freeing frozen clutches and presto! It's going well again.

What I did:

1) Warmed up the engine, pushed the rover out to the road, stopped the
engine.

2) Locked FWH (it came with the rover, please dont start THAT
discussion again), engaged 4x4 high, engaged 2nd, started the engine
in gear.

3) Picked up sufficient speed, slammed on the brakes while
simultaneously stepping on the accelerator and clutch (similar to
"heel and toe" manoeuvre but with the clutch added). After 2 tries,
managed to free the clutch!

By the way the archives is a really great piece of work!

Cheers!

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

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From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:05:17 -0700
Subject: finsup

jeff wrote in part:

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 11:35:40 -0400
Subject: FINSUPdate: Life with Turner

Got FINSUP back from the hospital late Thursday evening. As many of you
know, she was undergoing an engine transplant. "In for a penny, in for a
pound" I went ahead and sourced a "high peformance" Turner long block

now I add:

I know the feelings you have.  I got my 6 rebuilt and felt the extra power
quite noticable.  Loved it.  Love the sound of the 6 instead of the 4.

But, about the high performance Turner, what are it's claims?  I got snail
mail from Automotive components awhil back advertising miodifications of
the LR4 as well as outright sales of modifed 4s.  They claimed 90 hp.  Just
talk as far as I was concerned, but on the red rocks trip (led by TeriAnn),
one of the dormies (eric and ann mills) had one of these recently installed
engines.  It was amazing!  Normally, I pull away from 4 cylinder rovers on
hills;  not this one.  He had a dormie, I had a dormie, he had a 4 and I
had a 6.  We were about even in performance.

cheers,

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster oops, not anymore, he has a top!  Needs door tops and
upper and lower tailgates.
 "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

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From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:18:27 -0700
Subject: BP and projects delayed

from the list:
> Now I am
> totally set back in my project.  Tried to get a hold of BP to vent and
> correct the situation but phone is always busy.  I had operator check
> and no one is on line so either phone is out of order, unintentionally
> off hook or intentionally off hook.  Very frustrated.

Yes, BPs phone is busy ALOT.  I talked to Steve yesterday morning and he's
busy.  The shop's busy.  They had a computer die and are trying to hire a
new person now with plans for another new person in the fall.  I would say
they are busy.  About a month ago, I was on hold forever(I had asked for
Steve and was told he'd be there in a minute) and hung up.  About an hour
later, Steve called me back.

As far as parts, things happen.  I once ordered brake shoes for my dormie
from AB.  Made sure that the set was for one axle, not one wheel.  When
they arrved, of course, it was one wheel.  I called.  They checked, checked
again.  yes, I was supposed to have received one axles worth.  They sent
out new ones  (in fact a whole set, so I still have extras), but of course
the weekend project was gone.

I buy everything from BP.  Shipping is usually ON even with UPS ground (I
live 400 miles north of them).  I have bought stuff from DIngo and done
boat freight for things I knew I would need in a couple of months (lots of
rubber bits for restoring a top).

When talking to normal people who seem to sort of like the rover, I tell
them to buy an old Bronco.  289 or 302 with drivetrain that doesn't break.
Weak link axle shafts are a sorry excuse for an under built part IMHO.  If
they aren't completely infected with Roveritis, they won't put up with
parts by mail, parts NLA, or the odd Whitworth bolt that shows up just when
you think that the job is going well and you'll be done in time for (name
your pleasure).

cheers,

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster oops, not anymore, he has a top!  Needs door tops and
upper and lower tailgates.
 "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 11:43:16 -0400
Subject: Interesting piece of news

Tuesday, July 7, 1998 Published at 13:41 GMT 14:41 UK

Business: The Company File

Pound may drive Rover abroad

See article at 
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/business/the_company_file/newsid_12800  
0/128104.stm

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:41:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:41:54 -0500
Subject: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

>Recently order replacement shoes for rear brakes on 109 IIA.  Tried to
go with my usual vendor, RN, but they were out.  Called BP and they had
some and they were about ? price compared to RN.  Ordered a set.  UPS
had some bad weather so it took 1 ?  weeks for them to arrive.  When
arrived, I found out they were rebonded after market Minitex brakes.  I
became truly bummed when I found out that they were not a correct set.
There were three with one polarity and a fourth of the other.  Now I am
totally set back in my project.  Tried to get a hold of BP to vent and
correct the situation but phone is always busy.  I had operator check
and no one is on line so either phone is out of order, unintentionally
off hook or intentionally off hook.  Very frustrated.

I don't know where you live, but if it's in a city or town of any size,
the chances are good there is at least one brake and clutch shop in your
area.  I purchased my Series III new in 1973.  When the original brake
linings wore out after a year or so I bought a replacement set of shoes.
This and the original set are only two sets of brake shoes I have for
the vehicle.  When one set wears out, I replace them with the other set
and have the worn set relined at a local brake supply shop.  It's very
cheap and the advantage is that you can specify what kind of lining you
want.  While asbestos has long since been removed from brake lining (a
big mistake in my mind) there are still different grades of lining
available.  Some is quite hard while some is relatively soft.  I've
always gone for the softest lining available as it pretty much
eliminates brake squeal and you stop faster.  The softer lining is also
easier on the drums as far as wear is concerned.  The downside is that
the soft lining wears out sooner so you have to periodically pull the
drums to see how they're doing.  But unless you've let the lining wear
down to the point where the shoes (and drums) have been damaged, you
shouldn't ever have to buy new shoes unless there is no brake supply
company in your area (or if the one there is doesn't do a good job).

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <snorcross@spectator.org>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 13:18:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Fairey Hubs

> I am trying to disassemble a set of Fairey freewheeling hubs on a '73 Series
> III.  I have taken out the stop screw from the selector cap, but can't figure
> out how to get the selector cap off the hub.  Any help figuring this one out
> would be appreciated.

larry,
there is a little plastic strip that holds the inner and outer pieces of
the hub together. its pull ring is underneath the screw. it's a similar
concept to the the little pull and peel deal that holds on gallon milk
container tops in the supermarket. 

get a fine screwdriver, and pull up the ring underneath the screw, and
gently pull the strip out from the hub. the plastic strip fits into a
groove in both the cover and the hub itself and locks the cover in
place.
be careful to not bugger up the plastic strip, i believe they are NLA

and lets NOT get into the merits of FWH vs. no FWH ;)

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA
1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Kimayo <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 11:32:10 -0700
Subject: RE: front end alignment q's

> There's only one alignment to set on a Rover - toe-in. This can be done
> with a tape measure, story stick, trammel points or any one of a dozen
> different ways in your driveway.
> Don't blow thew cash - do it yourself.

Do you find that you get good enough accuracy? I would think with a tape
measure that getting down to a few mm's would be very tough. I have thought
about attaching my depth gauge doohickey to a stiff stick and checking
things that way between the insides of the wheels, but various components
get in the way!

Thanks,

Clayton
>                     aj"I do!"r
> with a tape measure, story stick, trammel points or any one of a dozen
> different ways in your driveway.
> Don't blow thew cash - do it yourself.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 15:56:18 -0400
Subject: RE: front end alignment q's

Re: Accuracy:

Suits me - I may not be deadly accurate to the millimeter, but I haven't
had a problem with handling and the tyres on the front have lasted 50K
miles....

A story stick is easy enough to rig - either that, or paint a mark on the
center of the tyres and use that for registration, rolling it back and
forth as necessary.

               ajr

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:01:20 EDT
Subject: Re-Anyone have on-board air?

Pat. wrote
>Does anyone have on-board air in the form of a compressor plumbed in to a
>mounted tank? 

>I ask because I am in the process of making a potato cannon 

What the hell is a potato cannon?

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:57:13 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re-Anyone have on-board air?

Mike Rogers would like to know:
>What the hell is a potato cannon?

It is a plactic-plumbing-pipe device for shooting bits of potato, hence the
name potato cannon. Some refer to them as spudguns, tater-shooters, etc. but
they all do the same thing, and depending on where you are, they are legal
(check local authorities' views on the matter) Here in the USA, the ATF
considers them more of a toy and an amusement to hillbillies ;-)  They are
great fun for making noise and shooting potatoes! One would have thought the
Irish (&the IRA) would have some form of it for their Portadown
celebrations...

Here's a wwwsite with some links to potato cannon sites:

http://www.angelfire.com/ia/superboom/index.html

stay safe!

--pat.

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 18:11:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Mud

In a message dated 07/07/98 09:09:01 BST, you write:

<< Now I have two questions:
 1. Is it likely the front diff is filled with water, because I've simple
 breathers?
 2. Yesterday I discovered lots of mud in the chasis (at the front). How
 do I get it out? >>

1. Good chance, drop the oil to find out....

2. Use a hose pipe....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 17:42:46 -0500
Subject: British Pacific

	The owner of BP sent me this and asked me to post it for him (as
he is not on the LRO list).  Since a customer publically stated some
issues about BP, I felt that it was fair that BP got to publically address 
these issues.   Please send any follow up to Steve directly and not to me.

Ben

------- Forwarded Message
From: BRITPAC@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 18:35:02 EDT
Subject: Re: FYI from the LRO list

Thanks, Ben. You could post this for me if you like.

First, Mintex are not re-bonded, but they are bonded linings (they are all
new, not relined). They last longer than riveted (Genuine are all riveted).
Due to the new enviornmental laws which prohibit arcing shoes, all shoes have
to be made thinner to assure they will fit in the drums. New riveted linings
last about 1/2 as long (and cost twice as much). We choose to sell only bonded
linings (they actually are safer than riveted because they are attached over
their whole surface as opposed to just a few points), and we use them on our
own trucks. They work great, and I contend they are superior to Genuine.
Further investigation would no doubt show that Mintex makes them for Land
Rover, as they are the OE manufacturer for Lockheed and other major brands.

Secondly, we do sometimes have trouble with the parts in the box not being
right (even wit Genuine), so that sometimes happens. We are always quick to
correct it when that happens, and usually expedite ship out a replacement set
at our expense.

Thirdly, last week our 800 line was altered by someone to call in on the same
line as our 818 number, which effectively cut our available lines by half.
That was fixed this Monday.

Finally, the collapse of our main frame forced us back on paper for a week,
which also slowed down each call and created a backup. There remain several
other ways to contact us; local line (818) 841-8945, fax (818) 841-3825, e-
mail (britpac@aol.com or steve@britishpacific.com), or over the website (on-
line ordering page, http://www.britishpacific.com). There are always ways to
reach us!

We are working on all of these customer service issues, just as hard and as
fast as we can. We are interviewing for additional counterpeople, and we hope
to have 2 more answering phones shortly. Our mainframe is back up, too.

I hope this addresses Mr. Wolfe's concerns. One further point; operating a 30+
year old vehicle normally has a few delays associated with parts supplies. LR
continues to discontinue Series IIA parts, and I'm grateful for every
aftermarket part we can get! 

Steve Hedke
Owner
British Pacific Ltd.

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------
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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:54:00 -0500
Subject: RE: British Pacific

I want to clear the air.  I was not complaining about BP but rather
trying to gather other experience with this vendor.  I just  started to
deal with them and I wanted to get more input.  I will say that my
telephone experience with BP was excellent.   I realize that mistakes in
packing can occur from their supplier.  I was frustrated.  I did not
want to give the impression that I hold BP to blame.  I just wanted to
gather more data.  Again, I have had only polite and informative
conversations with them.   I apologize if I came off like a bit of an
ass.

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------
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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 19:59:50 -0600
Subject: Brake Shoes

Okay, its time I let this out to the rest of the world.

How much would you pay for new brake shoes on your Series
Rover?

??????????????? Da Da Da DADA Da Da Da????????????????????

Well Alex that would be $30.00

Don't believe me?  Well thats what I pay, yes all 4 wheels
for $30.00

Since we don't want to spoil the list with commercial
content you might want to contact me directly.  And BTW the
supplier is in PGH, PA, USA.  Shipping will be up to you.

Your old shoes, and new linings, all four wheels for $30.00.
Prices may vary in you area.

PS it is convenient to have a spare set of shoes to do this,
thant way you can keep going while the other set is sent
out.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:51:35 +1000
Subject: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates

>What can I use to clean up a used pair of brakes shoes?

First thing to do when stripping any brake system is to hose it with water
from the tap (faucet to you Americans).

Water will wash off brake dust and the residue from brake fluid and will
often leave the brakes looking like new.

I know you guys won't believe me and will go on wasting money on expensive
solvents etc.  BTW this is safer than blowing brakes out with air.

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L "The Last Aquila"
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------
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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:44:01 +1000
Subject: I say, Chaps!

Dale Smith asked:
>Good parade was it then Ron?......;-)

After Ron Beckett  wrote:
>I say, Dave, have you been watching the Gay & Lesbian Parade that
>occurs every year down here in Sydney?  I noticed there were a few
>pairs of chaps worn with butt-nekked male cheeks.

To which I respond:
So I'm told.  I'm not saying whether I watched it on TV and I won't tell you
it goes down the street in which I work.  I also won't tell you that
everyday I walk to and from the railway station through that area of town
which is well known for the people who go in the parade.

Nor will I tell you of the incident that happened about 25 years ago when
"happy" people weren't so well accepted in the community, i.e, we had a BBQ
and, when two of the happy chaps left, they kissed me on the cheek (not the
chapped cheeks!) because they had such a good time.  Odd, though, that they
only shook my wife's hand when she did all the work.  Hmmm.

Ron

------------------------------
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From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:39:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: I say, Chaps!

As we say in the modern military; "Don't ask, don't tell, don't pursue"
Didn't mean to slight "happy" people, I'm sure that I "probably" work
with several "happy" people every day. After being stationed in the UK
and hearing about Welshmen(or was it aussies) and sheep all the time,
I really avoid asking people what they do with their spare time.
Thought you may have seen the TV special that was on recently, telling
all about the parade. (also taking a cheap shot at a joke, but that is
nothing new to the list)
Sounds like it was a good BBQ, what was on the menu? Swordfish,
mountain oysters, or just some mussels.....:-)  
Cheers
Smitty

---The Becketts  wrote:
 Dale Smith asked:
Good parade was it then Ron?......;-)
 After Ron Beckett  wrote:
I say, Dave, have you been watching the Gay & Lesbian Parade that
occurs every year down here in Sydney?  I noticed there were a few
pairs of chaps worn with butt-nekked male cheeks.
 To which I respond:
 So I'm told.  I'm not saying whether I watched it on TV and I won't
tell you
 it goes down the street in which I work.  I also won't tell you that
 everyday I walk to and from the railway station through that area of wn
 which is well known for the people who go in the parade.

 Nor will I tell you of the incident that happened about 25 years ago
when
 "happy" people weren't so well accepted in the community, i.e, we had
a BBQ
 and, when two of the happy chaps left, they kissed me on the cheek
(not the
 chapped cheeks!) because they had such a good time.  Odd, though,
that they
 only shook my wife's hand when she did all the work.  Hmmm.
 Ron

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 02:04:53 EDT
Subject: Re: British Pacific

Uh...I do have to differ with Steve on the issue of cost, for genuine brake
shoes:

I personally purchased genuine shoes front and rear, for my 109 1 1/2 years
ago, (from BP) and they were a good 1/3rd cheaper than aftermarket! Perhaps
this has changed since then?

I also prefer rivited shoes. Reason for this - sometimes (though, not too
often, but I've seen the aftermath) the bonded lining can "pop" loose, making
for some interesting side effects.

ALWAYS ask for prices for both genuine, and aftermarket - sometimes the parts
person is even suprised.

Charles

------------------------------
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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 02:15:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Whitworth

On: Tue, 7 Jul 1998, Mike Rooth wrote: "Wrong again.  Ferkin was his
cousin,a brewer by trade.His first child was called Kilderkin,the second was
Tun (a big baby,by all accounts) and the third was Pint,a premature
offspring and small with it.  Ferkin it was who rationalised the BSS,or
British Standard Slurp."

This sums it up quite well.  Let there be no doubt that when it comes to
obfuscation, the pommies win the award.  Are they not the ones who gave us
inches, feet, yards, miles, pounds, stones, and all those other perfectly
logical measures.  It still remains a mystery why they abandoned their
marvelous old currency of 12 pence to the shilling and 20 shillings to the
pound.

Paul Donohue
1965 RHD Land Rover 109 with 139.5 cubic inch engine.



------------------------------
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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 03:54:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates

In a message dated 08/07/98 03:51:48 BST, you write:

 Water will wash off brake dust and the residue from brake fluid and will
 often leave the brakes looking like new.
 
 I know you guys won't believe me and will go on wasting money on expensive
 solvents etc.  BTW this is safer than blowing brakes out with air.
  >>
Yep, Ron, that has my vote as well, soon as the drum comes off the whole job
gets a good wash down with the hose pipe (''Eh Ethel, look at this, some guy
says to get water on m' brakes, some nut from the UK, and an Oz says it as
well'')
 but seriously, by the time you come to put the brakes back together, they'se
all dried out anyhow.
Doesn't work for oil/brake fluid contaminated shoes tho and that'd when you
set fire to them - but AWAY from the car and house....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------
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From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 08:55:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Fairey Hubs

Larry asked:
> > I am trying to disassemble a set of Fairey freewheeling hubs on a '73 Series
> > III.  I have taken out the stop screw from the selector cap, but can't 
figure
> > out how to get the selector cap off the hub.

Spencer replied:
> there is a little plastic strip that holds the inner and outer pieces of
> the hub together. its pull ring is underneath the screw.

> get a fine screwdriver, and pull up the ring underneath the screw, and
> gently pull the strip out from the hub.
I find that holding the *body* of the strip and rotating the 'hub from
4x4 to 4x2 & back helps to ease the plastic strip out.

+-----------------------------------+-----------------------------------------+
|Ian Stuart                         | Land
Rovers:                            |
|Computing Services                 |   First because they
Last               |
|The University of Edinburgh       
> gently pull the strip out from the hub.
+-----------------------------------+-----------------------------------------+

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 03:54:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Whitworth

In a message dated 08/07/98 07:21:38 BST, you write:

<< , miles, pounds, stones, and all those other perfectly
 logical measures.  It still remains a mystery why they abandoned their
 marvelous old currency of 12 pence to the shilling and 20 shillings to the
 pound. >>

Yeah, I wondered about that as well.......really odd, just upped and changed
it for no reason at all.

Mind you, the new government has a plan for the changeover to driving on the
right hand side of the road. They're going to do it gradually, over a period
of a week, cars one day, m/cycles the next, vans the next etc etc....

So I went for some timber, I wanted 2" x 2". but the bloke said it was metric
now. So I had to go away and work out if I wanted the just-too-small or the
just-too-big.
Got back to the yard and said I wanted six metres and he said: "Will three
lengths of seven feet do or do you need longer lengths? He honestly didn't
know why I cracked up...

Land Rover content: I also bought some marine ply from him for my roofrack
(4ft x 2.756435 metres)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------
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From: Matt Wilson <GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 08:33:31 +0100
Subject: GB50LR on air again this weekend.

This weekend (11th & 12th July) at the Ardingly Vintage Vehicle 
Show the Radio Amateur Special events station with the callsign 
GB50LR will be operating as a follow on to the Shugborough Hall 
event.  

The Ardingly show is based at the South of England Showground,
Ardingly, near Haywards Heath, West Sussex. It covers all 
classic cars with crafts and autojumble, and there is a special
large collection of Land-Rovers to mark the vehicle's 50th 
anniversary.  Overall it's a brilliant day out for the
family.

The station will be operating at various times during the
weekend on 80m (3.7Mhz +- QRM), 40m  2m S.S.B. and FM.  
You'll just have to listen for the C.Q. over the weekend, but 
that's part of the fun!  

Packet Radio messages for GB50LR can also be sent over the
weekend via B.B.S. GB7ZZZ.

All contacts made throughout the weekend will receive a 
commemorative GB50LR QSL card.

Testing on the Friday while the station is set up will use 
the callsign GB5LR. Any licensed amateurs attending the 
Ardingly event are invited to help out running the station 
during the weekend.  The station will be located next to
the display of Land-Rovers.

Good luck and safe journey to all who are attending the show,
and we hope to hear all the 'hams on the air over the weekend.

- Matt Wilson  
- GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 10:14:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Whitworth

Yeah, I wondered about that as well.......really odd, just upped and changed
>it for no reason at all.
Dead easy.Its so they could put the price of a packet of crisps up from
a tanner to two bob in under a week......

Mike Rooth

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  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 36 lines 1687 [forwarded 67 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1207 [content 1019  forwarded 67 (cut  0) whitespace 0]

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