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From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 12:09:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Inner Hub Bearing Stuck

Great! More opportunity to learn...
		
							What happened
>was that,like yours the hub would turn perfectly OK,but it
>wouldnt come off.It was the oil seal that was stopping it.
>Walloping the thing eventually got it off,but the oil seal stayed put
>on the stub axle.I never did get the bearing off.

Hmm, the seal is just loosely sitting behind it, it can 
be turned, too. Like it's supposed to be, only sans hub.
It seems to be the inner race (as opposed to the outer race
in the hub shel) that doesn't move, and so retain the bearing.

I guess I'll try with one of these bearing extractor thingys.
And looke up a few part numbers...

	thanks, and cheers, Axel

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 07:41:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Inner Hub Bearing Stuck

If you've got a bearing that's sitting on the stub axle and just stuck, see
if you can get a bearing rmover behind it before you put a puller on it.

The remover is a 2-piece metal device held together with threaded rods.
This gets fitted behind the recalcitrant bearing and provides a firm
support for the puller to pull against. Without this, a lot of times the
bearing will simply be pulled apart, leaving you with the collar and no way
to get it off.

A bit of heat on the bearing interior race might be a good thing too -
sounds like Mr. Bearing got a bit to hot somewhere along the line and
welded himself to the stub axle.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 98 08:32:39 EST
Subject: Re: I say, Chaps!

>Dave Bobeck replied:
>speshly when theys butt-nekked.
>I say, Dave, have you been watching the Gay & Lesbian Parade that occurs 
>every year down here in Sydney?  I noticed there were a few pairs of chaps 
>worn with butt-nekked male cheeks.

I was referring to the aforementioned fairer sex. Please do not confuse these 
two similar yet very different fashion statements.

thank you
the fashion police

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 98 08:40:44 EST
Subject: Re: slow 2-1/4L engine...but it ran long hard trips

>This is the engine that was vandalized by pouring dirt down the oil 
>filler tube & by the looks of things maybe down the carb just after a 
>complete rebuild.  

yikes.
when did this happen, and did you catch the varmints? were you able to do 
anything to minimize the damage? how did you find out? 
I would tie the little sh*ts to the towball and retrace the Saab Pull course if 
it was my rover...then they could drink the crunchy milkshake out of the 
sump....mmmm

later
daveb

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:50:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Inner Hub Bearing Stuck

If you have to go as far as removing the stub axle, before replacing it, I
would take it to a machine shop and see if they can press it off.  A good
machine shop has a load of tricks for just such problems.

Nate

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:57:38 -0400
Subject: Steering Relay is OUT!

With one final push and lots of penetrating oil the steering relay is out.  
It fought to stay in its hole the entire way out but my hydraulic jack 
prevailed. One hour later the new relay was installed with the only problem 
being that the bottom bolt heads on the new relay were larger than the 
oringinal 8mm and consequently protruded beyond the edge of the relay body. 
This prevented the relay from fitting downd into the hole and the bottom 
collar plate from fitting around the relay bottom.  The solution was to 
simply use the four (special) bolts from the original relay.

What a difference the new relay makes in the steering!  I longer have to 
negotiate with the steering wheel.  On to the next proect....

Rick S.
'71 IIA

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 09:32:50 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: slow 2-1/4L engine...but it ran long hard trips

In a message dated 7/6/98 8:54:48 AM, you wrote:

>I would tie the little sh*ts to the towball and retrace the Saab Pull course
if
>it was my rover...

Dave, you wouldn't happen to have been vacationing anywhere near *Jasper,
Texas* lately, have you?

--pat.

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 98 07:15:43 -0700
Subject: Re: slow 2-1/4L engine...but it ran long hard trips

;>>This is the engine that was vandalized by pouring dirt down the oil 
;>>filler tube & by the looks of things maybe down the carb just after a 
;>>complete rebuild.
  
;>yikes.
;>when did this happen, and did you catch the varmints? were you able to 
do 
;>anything to minimize the damage? how did you find out? 
;>I would tie the little sh*ts to the towball and retrace the Saab Pull 
;>course if 
;>it was my rover...then they could drink the crunchy milkshake out of 
the 
;>sump....mmmm

Dave,
This is an old story.  The event happened in the early nineties.

The short story is that a Land Rover owner who wanted me to give him the 
sides off my hard top poured dirt down the crankcase of my freshly 
rebuilt engine.  

He was very aggressive about making me give him my sides.  He was coming 
up to my house and hanging out around my car while I was at work. I 
locked my sides to the car in case he wanted to steal them told him he 
could have them sometime after hell froze over.  Immediately afterwards 
the deed was done.  

I did not have an actual witness to the deed, though someone saw him 
going up my driveway at about the correct time, so could not prosecute.  
I did not retaliate.  I had nothing against his Land Rover.  But I 
noticed that he started parking his LR under his living room window and 
keeping lights on in his yard all night.  I let him deal with the issue 
while I went on to other things.

The engine was a freshly rebuilt series III engine.  It had all kinds of 
new parts & was balanced.  I started it and ran it in for 3 or 4 hours 
while reassembling the car & doing other work.  The exhaust was off.  It 
wasn't until the exhaust was on that I started noticing something was 
amiss.  I checked all kinds of things that could make strange noises and 
suspected something was wrong with e new clutch until I changed the oil & 
filter at 300 miles.

The engine was cleaned as best as possible without disassembly.  Bearings 
were checked.  The new timing chain, gears & tensioner were replaced as 
the tensioner was clogged and not working.

The engine never developed it's full potential and I have felt never felt 
good about it since then.

As I have said I never retaliated.  The last thing I wanted was to become 
emotionally involved in a feud.  Being away from home 10 hours or so a 
day, I would loose any feud.  He lives a 10 minute walk from my house and 
has much shorter hours than I did.  besides I just do not want to focus 
on creating violence.

         | TeriAnn Wakeman
         | twakeman@cruzers.com
         | http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
         |
         | "The Green Rover"
         | 1960 109 two door
         | Expidition equipped
         |
         | _______     ____
      .==|"======="==='    `=============.
     /   |	                               \
     | ._|_______________________________. |
     |/  |    	___________________	    .. \|
    ,|___|____/ _________________ \____||__|,       
     | .-|-. | |	                | | .-||. |
     | | | | | |	                |'%,||||| |	
     | | | | | |                	| | ||||| |	
 _   | | | | | |_________________| | ||||| |  _	
(_)  | | | | |                    	| ||||| | (_)
   \ | `-|-' |        	==	        '% ||||' |/
   ,'====|===|=====================|=||||===` 
   |(o)  | 0||	        ||	        ||0||||(o)|
   |(o)  o  ||	        ||	        || ||||(o)|
   ||   ==  ||	        ||        	|| ||||  ||
   ||  ____ ||	        ||	        || ||||__||
   || |7050|||        	||	        || |____/||
   ||  ---- ||_________||_________||   ||  ||
   ||_______|______________________|___||__||
   | |	    |	        | _ |	         |	    | |
   |_|_____|_________[ - ]__________|_____|_| 
    | Land  |~~~~~~~~'~~~.___/~~~~ | Land  |
    |   /   |                      |   /   |
    | Rover |	                     | Rover |
    |_______|                    	 |_______|
     |\\~//|	                       |\\~//|
     |_\_/_|	                       |_\_/_|

  [Key -Dormobile top, military bummperettes,
   rear whip antenna, vertical rear mounted 
   hiLift jack, tail gate, side hinged lift gate]

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:29:26 +0100
Subject: FW: Halfshafts

------------------------------

From: "Stude, Herman L." <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 08:45:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Keonig Clutch.....

Peter & Julie Rosvall wrote:
> Anyone ever adjust the clutch in a Keonig winch? Any tips or info
> would much help.

I'd like to know as well, never done it.

Thanks

------------------------------

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From: "Mark L. Freeman" <baker@iland.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 09:30:34 -0500
Subject: Light Socket, Series II, III Plug Part Number
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Elwyn York asked:

On my S3 there are 2 Inspection Light Sockets, also on the S2's.  I know =
it has been before so can anyone tell me the Lucas Part Nos for these =
connections?

If you are refering to the red and black colored female recepticles on =
the lower right of the instrument cluster, the male plug and wire =
adaptor is LR part # 560617.  Be advised that this plug has one pole =
sightly larger diameter than the other and may require that you drill =
one of the female terminals to accept the larger plug.  At some point =
the plug and socket configuartion changed and the older plug is NLA.

Best Regards,

Mark Freeman
Sedalia, Missouri
1974 88 petrol
1975 109 hybrid
1997 Disco

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------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 10:26:00 -0400
Subject: Weber Vapour Lock

The "vapour lock" on Webers is I believe not actual vapour lock but flooding
due to a combination of excessive fuel pressure and manifold heat. What
happens is the fuel in the float chamber starts to boil and the reduced
density due to the vapour bubbles reduces the force of the float on the
needle valve (At high altitudes the boiling will occur at lower temperatures
agravating the problem). This in turn allows the valve to open if the fuel
pressure is high and the fuel level rises above the main jet and it spills
into the manifold flooding off the engine.
The solution is a low pressure fuel pump or pressure regulator and a heat
shield under the carb to protect it from directly radiated heat off the
manifold.
My Weber was always coated with tar from overflowing fuel until I made these
changes. Now it stays clean enough to eat off. (But too cool to cook on)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 10:54:00 -0400
Subject: LaSalle Trim

The address http://www.lasalle-trim.co.uk worked fine for me
It opens as http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 06:56:48 -0900
Subject: Clutch or lack of clutch

I have had a driven disc frozen to the flywheel twice. The first time I R&R
the tranny and pried it off. Several months of disuse and it was stuck
again. This time I drove the Rover in 1st gear with the clutch pressed in
and accelerated and decelerated as violently as I could. Within 1/2 block
it broke loose. Worth trying before you r&r tranny. REgards, JimDuchanin

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:10:36 +0100
Subject: O K my Series 3 is Rebuilt and Running, kinda

New Cam Chain. Big end, mains, Cam sprocket crank sprocket, piston rings 
and tappet slider all refitted by me. I have no social life left and the 
landy is still not running beautifully, Well sometimes it is, thats the 
confusing part.
Other times I have blue smoke and rough running, So far it has been 
suggested that air might be getting in the fuel supply or that I have a 
sticky valve, or the injectors.
Has any one hade the same symptoms and what was the cure?
Martin Lough
Frank W. Murphy Ltd
Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext. 245)
Fax: +44 1722 410088
Email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

Visit our website at: http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 10:11:07 -0500
Subject: Re: seat belts 

>>>>> "Benjamin" == Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com> writes:

    Benjamin> In message
    Benjamin> <bulk.28479.19980704092819@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

    >> Isn't this just asking for a broken collarbone (or worse)?  I've
    >> never put 3-points in the TR-4 for this reason.

    Benjamin> 	It seems to me that using the LR bulkhead 3 point
    Benjamin> 	Now, I agree that the 3 point will probaby break the
    Benjamin> collar bone.  But with a lap belt, you will probably hit
    Benjamin> the steering wheel with your chest or face or dash with
    Benjamin> your face.  Which is worse?  You pick your poison.

    Benjamin> 	But both choices are better then not wearing one.  I've
    Benjamin> pulled way too many bloody pulps out of wrecks on
    Benjamin> backboards because they weren't wearing a seatbelt.

I guess what I was looking for was a "real" solution to mounting a three
point belt in a soft-top.  One where it would be high enough and far
enough back to prevent the downward compression of my spinal column and
the fracture of my clavicle.  Maybe it's time I got out the sliderule
and started trying to figure one myself...
								-MM

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 11:19:35 EDT
Subject: Re:  O K my Series 3 is Rebuilt and Running, kinda

In a message dated 7/6/98 11:10:08 AM, you wrote:

>I have no social life left and the 
>landy is still not running beautifully, Well sometimes it is, thats the 
>confusing part.
>.

Don't worry about the social life's temporary absence. 

As soon as your engine is purring like a BMW, and the rover is running smooth,
quiet and leak free (both oil & water), it will miraculously transform itself
into an irresistible babe-magnet. Have patience (or is it perseverance), and
it will happen... you'll be amazed at what sort of interest it attracts. (Now,
if the only form of interest is from train-spotting anoraks, it must be
*you*...)  ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

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From: Donald Abbot <dlanod@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 14:32:05 +0200
Subject: re: Can't get into gear

On Saturday Lawrence Lee wrote:

The Rover refuses to get in gear!

Changed clutch slave and have on a relatively new (less than 1000km)
master pump. Adjusted freeplay to its max, but still I cannot get it
into gear with the engine running.

I had a problem like this with my SIII. It turned out that I had let it =
stand too long and the clutch had rusted solid onto the pressure plate. =
Needed a whole new unit installed. I hope your problem isn't this =
drastic.

Donald
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------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:25:42 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Brake test lamp circuit

On Sun, 5 Jul 1998, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> Dont ask me - I have just reinstalled  the wiring loom on a new
> firewall. They are in series, so how do they work?
> Or do they just satiosfy some obscure vehiocle safety requirement by
> making a lamp light up?

The circuit looks like this:

     servo sw. diff.sw.   test sw.
        +---------+---------+-------Lamp---- +v
        |         |         |
        \         \         \  normally open switches
        |         |         |
       gnd       gnd       gnd

Now, if either of the switches close, the lamp lights up. 
As you see, the switches are actually in parallell. What makes
this confusing is that on for instance, the diff. switch, there
are two cables entering the switch, but they are connected together
inside the switch. The metal the switch is screwed into provides
the ground connection.

Thus, removing a switch without connecting the ends together
will ruin the circuit.

Any clearer? There't a much better description in the beginning
of the brake section of the factory SIII shop manual.

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 2.25 petrol (brake warning system currently disconnected :-)

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 11:35:40 -0400
Subject: FINSUPdate: Life with Turner

Got FINSUP back from the hospital late Thursday evening. As many of you
know, she was undergoing an engine transplant. "In for a penny, in for a
pound" I went ahead and sourced a "high peformance" Turner long block
through Rovers North. Thanks to Charlie and the lads for terrific service,
prompt delivery and for answering my questions along the way.

I had a local shop do the work. Precision Performance in Wilton, CT. Nice
guys, and so far as I can tell they do good work. While they have a
'civilian' clientelle as well, they specialize in performance and off-road
vehicles.

So long as the motor was going to be out, I also had the clutch, fuel pump
and all of the hoses replaced. Originally the water pump was going to get
changes too. I purchased a rebuild kit with the intention of installing it
in the "core" (my *first* water pump) that's sitting in the basement.
However, the core proved to be unworthy of the effort, so I kept the
current water pump and have since obtained a better core to rebuild as a
spare.

By this time the ship fitters disease had struck and I decided to also
replace my exhaust system--crushed head pipe, ZippyWeld [TM] custom muffler
and all. A call to Eric "ext. 231" Riston at A.B. had a new stainless steel
system at Precision the next morning. Actually, the decision to replace
that bit came while I was underneath Eric's Rangie slapping POR-15 on
"everything that was black to start with." I wonder if the fact that "ol'
231" kept whispering "Exhaust, exhaust" had anything to do with my
decision? (And exactly what kind of brother is it that tattoo's a part
number on his sisters midriff?)  As long as the pipe was being renewed, I
took a tip from Sandy Grice and wrapped the head pipe with heat-retaining
header wrap. We'll see how that works out.

Finally, I went ahead and jobbed out two little jobs that I was going to do
myself *before* this whole thing happened--but decided that once I picked
the car up from the shop I wanted to *enjoy* it for a few weeks before I
had to crawl under it again. Those jobs were replacing the push rod for the
clutch and the tie rod ends--the latter being 'upgraded' to Range-Rover
bits which I'm told are a bit more durable.

So with all of this done the result is...WONDERFUL! Smooth and powerful
don't begin to describe it. I've been advised against using full throttle
for the first 500-800 miles but it hasn't mattered. There's enough power to
get to highway speed without pushing it. I'm amazed at how 'bad' FINSUP
used to be--at least relative to how she behaves now. And my neighbors are
sure to appreciate how the new pipes have quieted her down. (I guess it
didn't *always* sound like I was running glass packs, huh?)

So far, (about 100 miles) there has been NO oil consumption at all. (That's
using the Turner-provided break-in oil.) I've been advised by Pat at
Precision to use a 10-W-30 Diesel grade oil at the 500 mile oil change.
(Anyone have anything to say about that?) I figure I'll do 1500 miles with
that in the crank, then move to the recommended 20-W-50. Charlie Haigh says
not put Synthetic in for (at least) the first 7,000 miles. After that I'll
probably go ahead and give it a try--assuming this engine isn't consuming a
quart per tank of highway driving.

I did make one minor modification myself. I installed one of those magnet
straps around my oil filter. (I have a PH8A spin-on adaptor.) It might just
be a gimmick, but it seemed cheap enough relative to the cost of the
project that I figured I'd use it for whatever good it might do.

Next week: Jeff installs a winch. Wish me luck. And if anyone has a source
for a vernier throttle, please let me know.

RoverOn!

jeff

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	You say you're gonna to get your act together
	Gonna take it out on the road
	         --John Hiatt, Memphis in the Meantime

------------------------------

From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:34:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: I say, Chaps!

Good parade was it then Ron?......;-)
Smitty

---The Becketts  wrote:
Also, when they are worn by the fairer sex, it frames the rear
end to perfection!
 Dave Bobeck replied:
speshly when theys butt-nekked.
I say, Dave, have you been watching the Gay & Lesbian Parade that occurs
every year down here in Sydney?  I noticed there were a few pairs of
chaps
 worn with butt-nekked male cheeks.
 Ron

------------------------------

From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 11:37:12 -0400 
Subject: NATO paint codes

Does anyone happen to have the paint codes for the NATO tan color?

Thanks,
Doug

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:02:30 EDT
Subject: Anyone have on-board air?

Does anyone have on-board air in the form of a compressor plumbed in to a
mounted tank? (As opposed to a pony bottle rolling around the bed) Did you get
a diagram off the web? I'm looking for a tank/valve/compressor schematic to
follow...

I ask because I am in the process of making a potato cannon and I've heard
that the compressed air versions kick b*tt compared to the good ol' hair spray
propelled versions. 

Believe it or not, I've thought about adding a compressor to the rover, but
this may just be the deciding factor...

Please pass along any comments (both air & cannon related...)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:10:20 EDT
Subject: Australian for...

For those who collect Land-Rover related stuff...

Last week, I was given a poster from Foster's Beer, you know, their campaign
with (grossly exaggerated) Australian definitions for things, then below, a
picture of their product saying Australian for Beer...

Anyway, some friends more-or-less forced me to meet them at the local Red
Lobster for dinner. As we walked in, I saw a poster on the Womens' Room
door...

A beat-up IIa 109 (looks like it was originally a 3 door, then two doors were
added about 7 inches behind the first set) with full rack, extended bonnet,
roo bar, etc. (y'know really outback looking). Below it it says *Australian
for Limo*  I looked at it for maybe 3.5 seconds.

As we're leaving, one of the girls hands me a rolled up poster. I quickly left
before we were caught taking it.

Anyway, it is neat looking. 

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:10:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Anyone have on-board air?

Re: On-board air:

DOn't bother - a CO2 bottle is cheap, cheap to fill, and does a great job
with tyres, inflatables (no, not your girlfriend...), beer kegs and the
like.

I do NOT recommend it for potato cannons, though - HP CO@ is nasty to mess
with.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Rob Horstman <robh@molienergy.bc.ca>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 09:21:15 -0700
Subject: RE: Anyone have on-board air?

I have on-board air systems on BOTH of my 4x4's.

 The Landrover system consists of a Quickair II compressor mounted under
the hood, plumbed to an old Air brake tank off a Semi, with both a
regulated output, and an unregulated output. Both with standard "quick"
connects. With this setup, I can maintain approx 110 to 115 psi of
pressure.

I can run most air tools, fill tires, boats, etc.... I've even
airbrushed for a guy with it !

The problem with CO2 is that if you run out in the bush, it's a long
walk to re-fill the bottle !

As for the my other truck, same setup, except I run 2 air tanks, one on
each side of the frame.

Just my 2cents.

Rob

Rob Horstman, Network Systems Administrator
Email : robh@molienergy.bc.ca
Moli Energy (1990) Ltd.
20000 Stewart Crescent,                  Direct Line - (604) 466-6681 
Maple Ridge, BC, Canada                Main #       - (604) 466-6654
V2X  9E7
              Visit us on the WEB  @  www.molienergy.bc.ca

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 13:29:32 -0400
Subject: JATO

Irvin1258@aol.com wrote:

>Apparently, you didn't hear about that "chap" in Arizona, who strapped a
>ATO nto his Chevy... the locals who found the wreckage on the hillside,
>hought it was a plane crash!

Clear, hand's down winner of that year's "Darwin Award" for doing the
world's gene pool the greatest good by removing himself from it.  At impact
- a hundred feet up a cliff face - he was doing an estimated 300 mph,
having been airborne for the better part of a mile.  Considering the thrust
these things produce, and the likelyhood that no one is *that* stupid, it
might just be an "urban legend"  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 19:55:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Brake test lamp circuit

An interesting explanation Terje! But the differential valve switch is
nylon, though there is a metal ball at the bottom which marries with the
valve plunger - which itself "floats" in brake fluid - and the ball has
contact with the plunger all the time. So how does this switch make
contact to earth? This switch must be a normal switch, which makes
contact between both wires.

Terje Krogdahl wrote:

The circuit looks like this:
servo sw. diff.sw.   test sw.
+---------+---------+-------Lamp---- +v
¦         |         |
\         \         \  normally open switches

gnd       gnd       gnd
 
Now, if either of the switches close, the lamp lights up.
As you see, the switches are actually in parallell. What makes
this confusing is that on for instance, the diff. switch, there
are two cables entering the switch, but they are connected together
inside the switch. The metal the switch is screwed into provides
the ground connection.
 
Thus, removing a switch without connecting the ends together
will ruin the circuit.
 
Any clearer? There't a much better description in the beginning
of the brake section of the factory SIII shop manual.
 
Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 2.25 petrol (brake warning system currently disconnected :-)

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 13:10:34 -0500
Subject: Fast Idle

Yep, just mentioned last week that my daily driver was running
like a champ, and now look what happened!!!

The wife and I just got back from a 400 mile weekend of light
off-roading (first time, and it was great!), and highway travel.

About 10 miles from home, I noticed that the Rover started idling
much faster than normal.  (If normal is 800rpm, its now idling at
1200rpm).  At the time, I thought it might have something to do 
with finishing up the 3+ hours at 60 mph, but it was still
doing it this morning.   I've got a single barrel Weber carb,
and just installed a RN tune-up kit about six months ago.   Is
it as easy as adjusting the idle screw on the carb?  Could it
be the timing has somehow advanced itself (how does that
happen?)?

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

-cjc

P.S. -- I've been running 91-92 octane with lead-additive if that
          matters.

*********************************************************
* Christopher Clanton               *   *     Andersen Consulting		
*
* clantoc@cscoe.ac.com           *   *     Minneapolis, MN USA		*
*                                             69 IIa 88				
*
*********************************************************  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 14:18:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Fast Idle

I'd check the timing - the other thing to look at is the possibility of a
part-closed or a floating choke butterfly causing a rich mixture.

Nose around - you'll find it.

               ajr

------------------------------

From: Elwyn <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 19:40:55 +0100
Subject: Lightweight Club

Hi

Can all you out there with or w/o lightweights let me know your email/web
site addresses? So's I can put them on my "Lightweight" page?  Cheers

Elwyn
S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Elwyn <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 19:48:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Lightweight Club

At 19:40 06/07/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi
>Can all you out there with or w/o lightweights let me know your email/web
>site addresses? So's I can put them on my "Lightweight" page?  Cheers

OK. Those with a lightweight, w/ or w/o being in the Lightweight club.
Wrong wording, sorry!

Sorry about the crosspost too!

>Elwyn
>S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
>Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Eric Zipkin <ericzip@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 15:10:40 -0400
Subject: Series One 1.6 Generator Pulley

Anyone have one in the U.S.?  Please respond via direct e-mail as I'm not
on the list in this machine.  Thanks.

Eric
Eric Zipkin
Bedford, NY  USA 

------------------------------

From: "BROWN DAVID E (DAVE)" <debrown@srp.gov>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:18:22 -0700 
Subject: Axle breaking survey.

> From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
> Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:56:44 -0700
> Subject: rear axle shafts
> Survey time---
> If you have ever broken a rear axle shaft, please email this back to
> me.
> I'll compile the answers and post them.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> If you ever broke and axle shaft, was it the long one or the short
> one?
	[Dave's reply;]  Both, first one was at a stop light, a VERY
easy start, just a BANG noise, and then no motion. 

	2nd time was in stop and go traffic, when, in anger, I revved
the engine and dumped the clutch... Again, BANG, no forward motion...
Sigh... 

> Where did it break?
> Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:56:44 -0700
	[Dave's reply;]  EASY (stop light) break was a LONG break,
splitting, and twisting the axle over around 18" in length - a REALLY
nasty looking break, especially when it was under such easy use at the
time.  I figured that it had been twisting slowly over a number of
years, and finally gave up!  I was able to easily extract the broken
pieces and then the axle without dropping the 3rd member.  Second time
(in anger) it broke at the planetary gears, and I had to drop the 3rd
member, and FORCE it out with a mallet and punch.  

> Was it genuine or aftermarket or unknown?
> Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:56:44 -0700
	[Dave's reply;]  Unknown

> Did you replace both with new ones?  genuine or other?
> Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:56:44 -0700
	[Dave's reply;]  Replaced with ones from my 88, that I wasn't
driving at the time.  Ordered and installed originals to replace the
ones I robbed from the 88.

> end
> Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 17:56:44 -0700
	[Dave's reply;]  Thanks, Dave...
> end

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Fast Idle

Also look to see if any vacuum lines have come loose.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: JATO

Go for the Urban legend, I heard that story for the first time in 84
when I was stationed in Az. It has been around a long time for it
never to have never been confirmed.
Smitty

---"A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> wrote:
> Irvin1258@aol.com wrote:
> >Apparently, you didn't hear about that "chap" in Arizona, who

strapped a
> >ATO nto his Chevy... the locals who found the wreckage on the
hillside,
> >hought it was a plane crash!
> Clear, hand's down winner of that year's "Darwin Award" for doing the
> world's gene pool the greatest good by removing himself from it.  At
impact
> - a hundred feet up a cliff face - he was doing an estimated 300 mph,
> having been airborne for the better part of a mile.  Considering the
thrust
> these things produce, and the likelyhood that no one is *that*
stupid, it
> might just be an "urban legend"  Cheers
>   *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
>   |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
>   |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
>   |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
>   |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
>   |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>   *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
>   ** 'lro' mailing list information from
'majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net'
> might just be an "urban legend"  Cheers

------------------------------

From: Keith Addison <gruno@att.net.hk>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 04:59:40 +0800
Subject: Re: Lightweight Club

Hi Elwyn

This is me:

Keith Addison
gruno@att.net.hk
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Lightweight

>Hi
>Can all you out there with or w/o lightweights let me know your email/web
>site addresses? So's I can put them on my "Lightweight" page?  Cheers
>Elwyn
>S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
>Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:32:15 -0500
Subject: JATO

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
>One of those things the
>military experimented with but used very sparingly and probably not at all
>except under war time conditions.  Does the term "they were expendable"
>have a ring here.

If I recall correctly, they were used during Operation Deepfreeze in the
Antarctic to get heavy planes off light carriers. Then there was the Darwin
award winner who improved the gene pool by leaving it with JATO tanks
strapped to his Cadillac.

    _____
___(_____)                  BE ALERT!
|Baby the\
|1969 Land\_===__           The world needs more lerts!
|  ___Rover   ___|o
|_/ . \______/ . ||
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:33:10 -0500
Subject: Mailing list archives

With reconfiguration of my computer, I lost my web site bookmarks.  I
would appreciate the web sitie that allows searching the archives.
Thanks

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:41:54 -0500
Subject: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

Recently order replacement shoes for rear brakes on 109 IIA.  Tried to
go with my usual vendor, RN, but they were out.  Called BP and they had
some and they were about ½ price compared to RN.  Ordered a set.  UPS
had some bad weather so it took 1 ½  weeks for them to arrive.  When
arrived, I found out they were rebonded after market Minitex brakes.  I
became truly bummed when I found out that they were not a correct set.
There were three with one polarity and a fourth of the other.  Now I am
totally set back in my project.  Tried to get a hold of BP to vent and
correct the situation but phone is always busy.  I had operator check
and no one is on line so either phone is out of order, unintentionally
off hook or intentionally off hook.  Very frustrated.

1)	What are your experience and opinions of BP service?
2)	Have any on you used rebonded Minitex replacement shoes instead
of official LR replacements?

Thanks,

Drinking a cool wheat ale and trying to aim my energy in a more
constructive path.

Cwolfe

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 15:04:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

I've always been pleased with the response I get from BP. Generally
knowledgeable and good prices, willing to make the effort.

Clayton

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 17:13:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes 

In message <bulk.22757.19980706144431@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

> Recently order replacement shoes for rear brakes on 109 IIA.  Tried to
> go with my usual vendor, RN, but they were out.  Called BP and they had
> some and they were about ½ price compared to RN.  Ordered a set.  UPS
> had some bad weather so it took 1 ½  weeks for them to arrive.  When
> arrived, I found out they were rebonded after market Minitex brakes.  

	BP usually has genuine and aftermarket parts.  If you don't 
specify which, they usually send the aftermarket part so long as they
think the aftermarket piece part is not a piece of crap.

> I became truly bummed when I found out that they were not a correct set.
> There were three with one polarity and a fourth of the other.  

	I would think that this is more of an issue with BP's supplier.

> Now I am
> totally set back in my project.  Tried to get a hold of BP to vent and
> correct the situation but phone is always busy.  I had operator check
> and no one is on line so either phone is out of order, unintentionally
> off hook or intentionally off hook.  Very frustrated.

	Based on past experienes with BP, I would think that their phone was
somehow out of order.  I too have experience busy signals, which I also
get from RN, but when I have been in their shop, I have always seen them
immediately answering the phone.

	I have order many of my parts from BP over the last 4 years and
have no issues with them.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:17:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

Thanks for all the good response regarding BP.  I have had good phone
interaction with them.    I am frustrated about the delays but such is
our existence.  I realize that it is not there fault but I just want to
be mad at somebody.  

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:18:54 -0500
Subject: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates

What can I use to clean up a used pair of brakes shoes?  They still have
a lot of lining left but they are dirty and maybe oily.  Will paint
thinner work?

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 18:39:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates

In a message dated 06/07/98 23:21:44 BST, you write:

 What can I use to clean up a used pair of brakes shoes?  They still have
 a lot of lining left but they are dirty and maybe oily.  Will paint
 thinner work? >>

pour some petrol (gasoline) on them - stand well back and throw a match...
honest, this works, would I lie to you?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:19:57 -0700
Subject: front end alignment q's

Having done a fair amount of front end work recently, I know I have to do an
alignment. Having perused various catalogs, I have noted a variety of front
end alignment tools. Do any work and are they worth the cost/effort, or am I
better off going to the local alignment non-specialist? I hate to spend $40+
each time I go screwing around with the front end just to have the alignment
nudged but I realize that end the end the alignment should be done.

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

------------------------------

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:25:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Cleaning up brake shoes and backing plates

I like the citrus based brake parts cleaner that I get at NAPA. Relatively
environmental friendly (so it says), and it works.

Clayton

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 18:30:30 -0500
Subject: 109 11" IIA brake ?'s  Springs and adjusters

Do both brake springs go outside the shoes or on the backing plate side
of the shoes?

Which shoe goes in the front, the one with the adjuster knob closer to
the cylinder or the one with it closer to the middle.  I guess I could
figure it out at least by trial and error but so confirmation would be
nice.

Thanks
Cwolfe

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 20:01:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Bummed Out about BP Minitex Brakes

I've been dealing with BP on most of my purchases, mainly because they're only
30 or so miles from me. From what I've seen (and I have expressed myself on
this issue more times than I care to remember!), some of their prices are very
competitive - other times though, they're absolutely rediculous! (example: the
$479.00 2nd speed maingear! I got a rebuilt S-3 tranny/transfer case from
England for about the same price!)

Their service is usually very good, unfortunately, Lawrence (their star
customer service lad, and all-round good fellow) has quit. He had more Land
Rover knowledge than all the guys there put together. (BTW - his new job is
not LR related)

>From what I've heard on the list over the years, all the other parts importers
in the U.S. are pretty much the same with regards to prices/service/etc., so I
guess it really boils down to who's closer to you, how much the part will
cost, versus ordering the same part from England, and waiting for it to
arrive. Sometimes, you can save a few bucks by ordering from out of state
(living in Nevada, and ordering from BP), and not paying sales tax - sometimes
it isn't worth it.

Charles

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 19:30:27 -0500
Subject: 109 11" IIA brake ?'s  Springs and adjusters- More?s

I am trying to figure out how to put this brakes back together.

Top spring.  Longer with two spring sections.  Which holes does it go
in?  There are 3 holes on the top of the shoe.  1st is closer to top
(cylinder) and somewhat to inside of radius.  The second is a little
further down and more to the outside of the radius (closer to the
friction plate) the third is further yet from the cylinder and is more
oblong hole rather than circular.

Which ones to use?  I figure number three.  I also guess that the top
spring should hook from the backing plate side of the shoe to keep the
shoes pulling in toward the plate.

Same questions regarding the bottom spring.  There are three holes in
the bottom of the shoe that run in a sort of diagonal straight line
running from the outside bottom of the shoe toward  away from the end
and toward the center.  Which holes should be used by the spring?  I am
guessing the one in the middle.  I also think that the bottom spring has
to be on the outside of the the shoes (toward the drum).  

Any guidance or reference in this matter would be appreciated.  Any tips
about pulling it all together would also be greatly appreciated.  I
can't get my answers from my workshop manual.

Thanks
Cwolfe

C. R. Wolfe M.D.
Emergency Medicine
Sun Dog Kennels						SMDC
Grouse and Woodcock English Setters				Duluth,
MN
Alborn, MN

------------------------------

From: gggBADGES@mediaone.net (Gerald, don't need BADGES to email)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 00:43:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Mailing list archives

http://land-rover.team.net/search/

On Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:33:10 -0500, you wrote:

>With reconfiguration of my computer, I lost my web site bookmarks.  I
>would appreciate the web sitie that allows searching the archives.

--
Gerald
ggg@mediaoneBADGES.net (Don't need no stinkin BADGES to email)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 20:45:43 -0400
Subject: Re: front end alignment q's

There's only one alignment to set on a Rover - toe-in. This can be done
with a tape measure, story stick, trammel points or any one of a dozen
different ways in your driveway.

Don't blow thew cash - do it yourself.

                    aj"I do!"r

------------------------------

From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 22:19:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Whitworth

On July 4th, Tim Sloan wrote:

         " So, along came Mr. Whitworth (I forget his first name)....."

  Tim, rumour has it his name was "Ferkin". Ferkin Whitworth is referred to
quite often when dealing with British machinery.

Hank Rutherford
'63 SerIIa "Gromit"

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 20:03:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Australian for...

My favorite Fosters add is a 109 pickup straining in the mud againsta a tight
thick rope.  

Australian for Dentist.

C

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> For those who collect Land-Rover related stuff...
> Last week, I was given a poster from Foster's Beer, you know, their campaign
> with (grossly exaggerated) Australian definitions for things, then below, a
> picture of their product saying Australian for Beer...
> Anyway, some friends more-or-less forced me to meet them at the local Red
> Lobster for dinner. As we walked in, I saw a poster on the Womens' Room

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Anyway, it is neat looking.
> --pat.

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 11:33:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Lightweight Club

You can add me to your list Elwyn..........David Lowe. Toronto. Canada.(Ex
Llan Ffestiniog) 79 series 3 ..24 volt FFR

Elwyn wrote:

> Hi
> Can all you out there with or w/o lightweights let me know your email/web
> site addresses? So's I can put them on my "Lightweight" page?  Cheers
> Elwyn
> S3 '72 (Dented) Lightweight. "Green Brick"
> Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk & Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 06:04:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Fast Idle

Christopher J. Clanton wrote:
> Yep, just mentioned last week that my daily driver was running
> like a champ, and now look what happened!!!
> The wife and I just got back from a 400 mile weekend of light
> off-roading (first time, and it was great!), and highway travel.
> About 10 miles from home, I noticed that the Rover started idling
> much faster than normal.  (If normal is 800rpm, its now idling at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> *                                             69 IIa 88                       
  *
> *********************************************************

Chris,

After you've checked for anything 'obviously' wrong (loose pipes,
screws, etc), throw some Redex (alt: diesel or even brake fluid) in with
your next tank of fuel. I find that with the Weber on my 4cyl that
because there is no tappet cover breather hose going into the air
cleaner and lubricating the carb, that the carb sometimes becomes jammed
with gunk residue from the fuel.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 09:25:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Brake test lamp circuit

> An interesting explanation Terje! But the differential valve switch is
> nylon,

Only the top of the switch is nylon to seal it for water. The casing of the
switch is metal, so this switch operates like the others.

> though there is a metal ball at the bottom which marries with the
> valve plunger - which itself "floats" in brake fluid - and the ball has
> contact with the plunger all the time.

This ball only is mechanical connection to the switch and the shuttle in side.
When it floats in brake fluid, it is necessary to overhaul this part. It have
to be dry!

> So how does this switch make
> contact to earth?

By its casing.

> This switch must be a normal switch, which makes
> contact between both wires.

Nope.

Joost Kramer

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:07:14 +0200
Subject: Mud

Hi,

Last weekend I was driving nice green lanes in Holland, when the road
became more of a swamp I went through. But after a few meters it was to
deep, the front of the LR diving in something more like a pond (wheels
under water). So I want to go back, but there was no traction anymore.
The good part was, we where with two LRs, so after 6 strong pulls I was
out.....

Now I have two questions:
1. Is it likely the front diff is filled with water, because I've simple
breathers?
2. Yesterday I discovered lots of mud in the chasis (at the front). How
do I get it out?

Thanks in advance,

Joost Kramer

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 10:08:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Whitworth

  Tim, rumour has it his name was "Ferkin". Ferkin Whitworth is referred to
>quite often when dealing with British machinery.
>Hank Rutherford

Wrong again.Ferkin was his cousin,a brewer by trade.His first child
was called Kilderkin,the second was Tun (a big baby,by all accounts)
and the third was Pint,a premature offspring and small with it.
Ferkin it was who rationalised the BSS,or British Standard Slurp.
This was arrived at in a totally logical manner and works out at
.308564 of one Imperial pint.It represents the gob capacity of
Ferkin's head dray driver,multiplied by the cube root of the number
of teeth of the off leader of his dray team.It is of interest that
the off leader was chosen,because it was the only horse in the team
that drank bitter.The other three rather fancied nips of cherry brandy
and it was considered that the Scots had the definitive nip.
The Americans,as is their wont,converted the BSS into something smaller
which they then re-named the ASS.Which may,(or may not) say something
about American drinking habits.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 12:38:35 +0100
Subject: Re: Mud

Hello Joost

You should check your diff and hubs for water, when submerged they 
will cool and this will create underpressure. If the submerge was 
short, I don't think you will have any trouble. To check you remove 
your draining plugs and the water will come out first because it is 
heavier then oil.

Use a power hose to get the mud out of your chassis, wet mud creates 
a perfect rust environment.

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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