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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:04:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

It is a petrol 2.25 sorry!

Neil

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 07:00:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Neil Brownlee wrote:

> I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' 
>speed
> should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl 
>engine?.
My 1973 88 2.25 pulls along along at 65 mph no prob. Reach speeds of 
72-74 when it sort of tops out. Carb is a bit small I think. That's with 
overdrive as well BTW. On Sunday I had a tow-dolly on her and pulled home 
a 1975 Range Rover and held a speed of 55 on the flats. I could have gone 
a little faster I guess, but I really didn't want tp push my luck with 
that kind of weight on the back. Stopping was another matter. When 
pulling up to a stop sign, I hit the brakes harder than normal and 
actually heard a distinct clunk, which turned out to be my wheel cylinder 
freeing up a bit more. Now my front right wheel runs hot, so with any 
luck, just cleaning the grundge from around the pistons may be all that 
it needs! ....And the Range Rover?? Parked it outside with all the other 
LR's, and it sure looks like the LR's all moved away from it overnight!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:16:31 EDT
Subject: Re:  New Phone Numbers

In a message dated 7/1/98 12:48:13 AM, you wrote:

>Here are some updated telephone numbers:
>Mobile Phone-Usually in my pocket- 602-469-3986
>Pager- 602-270-9490
>Office-602-833-1800
>Fax 602-833-7490
>Email(best address) fns@primenet.com

Yeah, but *who* are you? I don't recognize fns@... this early in the
morning...

--pat.
(now having to dial 10 digits...)

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:25:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch Bleeding

Frank, 

Sure, but the ultimate credit should point to Larry Smith
(Lodelane@aol.com, who taught me this very effective technique.

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:44:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding

Ahh, there you go John.  Taking credit for others ideas.  8^)

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:57:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding

See, that's what I get for using "Flush Mail" on AOL.  Fingers get faster than
the mail in the queue for delivery.  Thanks for the nod John.  I'm happy that
you're putting the info out for people to use.  That's what this service is
supposed to be all about!

later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:28:32 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

In a message dated 7/1/98 6:24:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

 If the springs are good and there's no significant wear of the pressure
 plate itself, you can reuse the pressure plate - I have.
 
 However, make very sure it's in good shape, because if it isn't, then you
 have to do the whole miserable job over again.....
  >>

What my mechanic friends tell me is you will have a higher likelihood of
clutch shuddering and possibly less effective clutch plate surface area if you
reuse a pressure plate.  This is due to, they tell me, normal wear patterns
which develop between the driven and pressure plate.  In the trade, the rule
is: if the clutch is old enough to have worn down a driven plate, the pressure
plate probably should be replaced too.  

I missed the front end of this thread, but generally it is considered good
form to turn the flywheel and replace the pilot bush too.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Dave Haynes <david.haynes@roke.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 13:38:18 +0100
Subject: Clutch Bleeding for a fiver

Frank wrote :-

<<If you find an easy bleed type kit tyhat has a top which actually fits
a Land
Rover one,...*CUT*
... did you honestly get someone to bleed your
clutch for a fiver?? Not worth getting under with the placky tube for
that.>>

I found myself stuck on the Isle of Wight, with a failed slave cylinder,
very
few tools and less spare time. Bit of a disastrous job really. Took only
5 mins
to get the old slave off. I was a bit over keen with the cleaning rag
and managed
to pull the actuator arm and clip out of the release arm. Trying to
refit the clip
through that little hole, covered in oil, mud and brake fluid was a real
test
of patience! (I failed). Then I couldn't refit the pipe to the slave,
and didn't
have a file to 'adjust' it! Next day buy a file and finish the job -
uh,oh can't
bleed it. Give up - go to F*rd garage round the corner. Like stepping
back 30years.
Showroom big enough for 1 Fiasco, desks full of oily invoices, my kind
of place.
Looked more like your local LR independant than a main dealer. But yes,
IIRC it
cost me just a fiver. It was a clever device, I've not seen before. Sort
of like a
spray gun in reverse. It used compressed air to suck fluid from the
slave bleed nipple
into a bottle.

How about one of those 1/2 litre syringes from machine mart. They have a
pretty good 
suction. I guess I'd try that if I had to do it again. Of course, they
cost a bit 
more than a fiver (but less than a tenner :-)

Cheers n Beers

Dave

Dave Haynes				Tel : +44 1794 833583

Roke Manor Research Ltd.		Fax : +44 1794 833586

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 09:52:37 -0300
Subject: Re: Drafting

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
> john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >A better solution is to remain in the fast lane when there is a good
> supply >of heavy trucks around. These usually have plenty of power to
> assist your >rate of speed.
> Woof...drafting behind big lorries...not for the feint of heart.  Yes, the
> Rover does that quite well.  If you pull up within 5-10 feet (where the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>   |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
>   *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

Actually I was suggesting that you stay infront of the trucks and
receive a "mechanical" assist. This is much more exciting but could
result in some minor body damage.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:55:16 +0100
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

AJR wrote,

If the springs are good and there's no significant wear of the pressure
plate itself, you can reuse the pressure plate - I have.

However, make very sure it's in good shape, because if it isn't, then you
have to do the whole miserable job over again.....

How can I makesure it is in a good shape, how to distinguish between 
good and bad.........................

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:17:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Lanham

Steve: 
the web address is http://www.aircast.com/peterg 
Cheers
Peter

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:18:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel pump rebuild question

Thanks Ben!  Will file the info away for the next time.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:39:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Hi Neil,

	My 109" manages to cruise quite happily at 65mph (on the flat) 
without any strain. Mind you, the GPS seems to think the actual speed 
is more like 60mph. I prefer the speedo version.

Cheers,

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 09:53:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Switching sides...

Adams, Bill wrote:
> Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge on
> the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to me.

/...> 'Why???
Just wondering
Rgds
Steve Bradke 72 series 111 88 ( for sale)
             68 series lla 88
             96 Discovery

------------------------------

From: DBoehme@HQ.NovaCare.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:55:42 -0400 
Subject: RE: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Peter,
Your 109" was cruising quite happily at 70mph coming back from LRNA!

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:14:55 -0400
Subject: Steering Relay Progress!

It's not out yet but
I have made some progress on removing the relay.
I suspended a plate of 1/2 inch steel below the
relay with chains wraped around the frame - it looks 
like a swing. Frank from RN also came up with that idea. 
With this arrangement I could put the 
jack on the steel plate and use its full force against 
the relay without lifting the vehicle.  The jack 
supposedly develops 2000Kg.

Last night I was able to push the relay up about 1/2 inch.  
The frame is rusted in the area on top around 
the relay (OK around the bottom) so I have been trying
to push it up  a little then pound it back down to 
gradually work it out without damaging the frame.  On 
my first full-force push I bent the bottom of the frame 
up slightly right in the vicinity of the bottom of the
relay!  Then I back off, pounded it down and tried again.

I gave it a rest with that 1/2 inch of progress 
and soaked it well with WD40 for the 100th time.  I'll try 
for a little more progress on it tonight.  I at least
have more confidence now that it will come out.

Thanks to the many people who have given good advice
to me on this problem.  This is a real excercise in
patience.

Rick Snyder
'71 IIA

------------------------------

From: russw@lycosmail.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:20:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  LaSalle Trim

>Has anyone fitted LaSalle trim to their Series vehicle? 
>  Now I don't have any LaSalle stuff but I do have some trim that fell of my
> 1970 Caddy convertable you could have cheep.
> Rgds Quintin
Q, You'd better check the ventilation in your darkroom because I think those 
chemicals might be getting to you. 
Somehow I think a 1970 Caddy convertable would suit you just fine though..

Russ W. and the Pig

Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:24:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

>>>>> "Richard" == Richard Marsden <Richard> writes:

    Richard> Well, I get 60mph no problem - 70mph under the
    Richard> right conditions in a 109" with the 2.25l petrol
    Richard> engine.  You didn't say whether you had petrol or
    Richard> diesel...

    Richard> With a heavy load, 60 is still no problem, but
    Richard> acceleration is, err, lacking.

I've got about the same experience in my 109".  60 is easily
reachable, but loud.  I can make 70 with a tail wind or
gravity assist, and it's even louder.  I took "Da Truck" in
for emissions last week, and it was amusing as heck to see the
mixture of terror and glee on the test drivers face as she
wound it up to the 60MPH mark.  A moment of indecision as she
thought about 5th gear (and I held up 4 fingers), and then she
just held on and enjoyed the ride.  Afterwards, she told me
the story of how she schlepped around Britain in one when she
was a schoolgirl.  I swear, everyone I meet lately has fond
memories of these beasts.
							-MM

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 09:30:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?') 

In message <bulk.23627.19980701024700@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

> I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' speed
> should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl engine?
> 45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right? It's a bit low

	My '72 SIII 88" does not currently have an overdrive, but is fitted
with 32" tyres.   I'm also using the Webber single barrel carb.  On the flats
I try to keep the speeds down to 60mp.  It can go faster, but the rpms are 
fairly high at 60.  One I hit hills, I loose speed, though. :-)

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:42:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?') 

Hi,

So my SIII does appear to a bit slow, can you explain to me if the following
is true :-

I have been told in 4 wheel drive (yellow lever down!) that she will  be
slower.....

I have overdrive - what benefit is this (I'm fairly new to these beasts and
lets just say an owners manual is something you only get with new cars
because the controls are so bloody finnicky!)

Meil

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:58:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

On Wed, 1 Jul 1998, Neil Brownlee wrote:

> I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' speed
> should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl engine?
> 45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right? It's a bit low
> methinks, but then I do tend to shoot about the motorways over here in my
> *DELETED* (ha ha!) at slightly more than 45!

45 seems awfully slow.  Are you sure you don't have a mechanical problem?
A distributor that isn't advancing would go about this fast.  Been there,
done that, not a lot of fun.  A burned valve or something like that could 
be a problem.  

My 88 currently goes as fast as I can push it, but when it had a fully
assembled engine, it cruised happly at 60 or 65, and once with a brisk
tailwind and a maniacal girlfriend at the wheel we reached 94.7 according
tomy handheld GPS.  That is much, much too fast.

David

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 09:58:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Peter Goundry wrote:

>        My 109" manages to cruise quite happily at 65mph (on the flat) 
> without any strain. Mind you, the GPS seems to think the actual speed 
> is more like 60mph. I prefer the speedo version.

	About year ago I decided to see how close the GPS was to the
truth.  Over a 100 mile marked highway length with data points taken
every 10 mile markers, if found the trip odometer to be accurate to 0.1%.
Likewise timing with mileposts, I found the GPS to be accurate to less than
1%.  In all cases I used a Garmin 12XL.   

	Now I used the GPS for for a speedo in both Rovers.  One thing to
keep in mind is that the speed is average speed for a couple of seconds.  
So while increasing or decreasing speed the GPS will lag behind the true
value.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:13:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Switching sides

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:27:58 -0400
Subject: Switching sides...

>Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge
on 
the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to me.

Discoveries carry on this tradition to this day. I would have thought
that 
the factory could have arranged for door swing according to country of 
destination.

This is an interesting question which prompts me to ask what difference
does it make?  Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see any
advantage one way or the other as to which side the door is hinged on.
As for left hand vs right hand drive, the 1970s-era US station wagons
that had tailgates that could drop down or hinge open like a door were
hinged on the right just like a Land Rover.  At least the ones we had
did.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:22:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Switching sides

At first sight, it would seem to matter on driving position, but thinking
about it, its more likely
to depend on handedness. (right-hinge => easier to open with righthand)

It isn't a great problem - I'm lefthanded, and  haven't had a problem!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Marin.Faure@pss.boeing.com on 07/01/98 04:13:10 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Switching sides

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:27:58 -0400
Subject: Switching sides...
>Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge
on
the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to me.
Discoveries carry on this tradition to this day. I would have thought
that
the factory could have arranged for door swing according to country of
destination.
This is an interesting question which prompts me to ask what difference
does it make?  Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see any
advantage one way or the other as to which side the door is hinged on.
As for left hand vs right hand drive, the 1970s-era US station wagons
that had tailgates that could drop down or hinge open like a door were
hinged on the right just like a Land Rover.  At least the ones we had
did.
__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:26:51 -0700
Subject: Re: What Speed?

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:46:39 +0100
Subject: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

>I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top'
speed
should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl
engine?
45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right?

Back in the early 1980s I drove my 1973 Series III-88 (petrol) to
Montana and back.  The overdrive was out of it at the time due to my
letting it run low on oil one too many times and suffering the
consequences (which are severe, by the way).  So I was running on the
standard gearbox.  I never take my engine over 3,000 rpm as anything
much higher thrashes the heck out it and shortens its life needlessly.
At one point, I drove under an overpass which was fitted with one of
those radar/electronic speed readout thingies.  As you approached the
display it indicated your exact speed in big numbers on the readout.  My
speedometer had died in the Yukon in 1977 and I'd thrown it away and
replaced it with a tachometer, a much more useful instrument anyway, so
this readout device on the bridge was the first time in ages I'd seen
what speed I was driving.  At 3,000 rpm I was doing exactly 42 mph.  At
the time, the vehicle was fitted with Norseman tires which were slightly
larger in diameter than the stock tire.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 17:20:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Neil Brownlee wrote:
> Hi,
> So my SIII does appear to a bit slow, can you explain to me if the following
> is true :-
> I have been told in 4 wheel drive (yellow lever down!) that she will  be
> slower.....

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> because the controls are so bloody finnicky!)
> Meil

OK, to be fair I've got a Weber 36 DCD and free flow exhaust system.
Also, although I haven't got an overdrive (standard 4 speed box), I have
750X16 tyres so I gain about 15% on the topend but suffer on the hills
by an equivalent degree.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:38:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Switching sides

>It isn't a great problem - I'm lefthanded, and  haven't had a problem!

Ah,but you forget Richard,we left handed people use *both* hands,
right handed people only use one........

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:47:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Switching sides

This is true.

I read somewhere, that left-handed people are meant to make better drivers
- they can use both
hands equally - so things like changing gear isn't a problem...

I find having a new steering box helps a lot - inside lane on a roundabout
at moderate speed with one hand on the wheel!  :-)

I annoy most of the people here, by having my mouse on the left-hand
side...   hehehe

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk on 07/01/98 05:38:14 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Switching sides

>It isn't a great problem - I'm lefthanded, and  haven't had a problem!

Ah,but you forget Richard,we left handed people use *both* hands,
right handed people only use one........
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:00:30 -0400
Subject: Left hand swing...

The problem is that in order to place items in the rear, one must 
sometimes step into traffic.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 98 12:08:25 EST
Subject: Re: Left hand swing...

>The problem is that in order to place items in the rear, one must 
>sometimes step into traffic.

lord almighty it must be a tight fit back there!

yikes

daveb

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:37:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Left hand swing...

You got that right bro-man!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:42:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?') 

If it's any consolation, by the time my 101 got up to 65mph, I needed an
overdraft and a new set of underwear.

At that speed (about flat-out) it didn't so much wander across the lane as
veer violently from one verge to the other, at the same time having a fairly
disastrous effect on the consumption - 7.5mpg! :(

Is this the kind of consumption the government is trying to tax off the
road? :)

Cheers,

Micky.

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:38:43 +0100
Subject: Re: axle housings

>Subject: Chassis treatment and ENV axles
>"Anyway, I have just acquired some elderly series parts, including 4 axles
>casings, and 4 diffs. Two of the casings are SIII, but two are more bulky,
>and would appear to be ENV axle casings, which I understand to be about as
>common as rocking horse doo-doo. The top of the casing has extra bracing on
>the top of the axle from the diff bit to the end bits - hence my
>assumption."
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>to the flanges where the axles/swivels bolt on  -  very common in Australia
>now-a-days

Yeah. Coming to the conclusion that they are not ENVs after all - pity.
Could have done with the cash at the next sort-out! I assumed they were ENVs
because my father (from whom I acquired the parts) used to have a IIB. He
seemed to think they ENVs, and I took his word for it. Then when I saw them,
became less sure. The fact that all 4 diffs are the same size should have
been a bit of a give-away...

The army spec is likely as he was also the owner of a IIA/III Lightweight
(the RAF rolled the IIA bit and put it on a III chassis) and presumably
these axles came from that.

Don't suppose anyone wants some army axle casings, do they?

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:55:14 -0400
Subject: Compression

"bill.di" <bill.di@mci2000.com> wrote:

>Checking the compression ratio on two 2.25 litre engines with designed 8:1 
>compression ratios, I found the following results:

Only *three* cylinders?  I only thought that Dixon ran on three...or
rather, two..., ;-)

>Anyone care to disect these ratios (e.g., do these engines have one foot
in >the grave already)?

It depends on what the next reading is.  Put a teaspoon of oil in each
cylinder to seal the rings.  (All plugs are out, right?)  If the pressure
comes up to 160+, it's the rings.  if it stays more or less the same, it's
probably funked up/burnt valves.  Adjacent low reading is the gasket (or a
crack).  good luck.

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:55:17 -0400
Subject: Galvanizing

Adrian Walden <a.walden@wave.co.nz> wrote:

>Could anybody with experience galvanising the chassis or bulkhead of a 
>110 landrover please share their experiences ?

Can't comment on the 110 and the possibility of thinner/different frame
sections from series vehicles, but one guy here in town had his frame and
bulkhead done as one unit.  The only problem was he put in the hinge bolts
to exclude the zinc...which it did not.  Hell of a time extracting them.
Either use a wooden dowel or plan to chase the threads later.

With the box-sectioning of the Rover frame, I can't see how the temps of
galvanizing would distort it.  it seems thta any temporary distortion would
be relieved as the metal cooled.  The local galvanizing place uses a "heat
soak" prior to the actual dipping.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Elwyn <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 18:36:27 +0100
Subject: Speed

I have a S3 1972 4cyl Petrol. my average cruising speed is 45mph and tops
is 50mph. I dont exactly want to push it hard, as my luck with engines and
main bearings are none existent!

Cheers
Elwyn

S3 '72 Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk (Direct)

------------------------------

From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 11:07:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Steering Relay Remove

Hello,
        I spent about two weeks getting this part out of the chassis.  I
heard it can be rebuilt in place but didn't think I had the tools or the
patience to attempt this procedure.  (translation.... I buggered up the
relay housing trying to hammer it out before I heard this could be done)  I
did however, remove the guts of the relay while in place to allow me to heat
the part more effectively.  BE CAREFUL OF THE SPRING if you decide to do
this.  It launchs out with some force.  
        What I ended up doing was spending a few hours everyday soaking the
relay in Kryol (liquid wrench type product) and working the part around with
any motion it had to loosen up the rust.  I also applied heat and perhaps
the most effective thing I did was to take a very small drill bit and on my
back drill small holes between the Relay and the walls of the chasis
cylinder housing in which the relay sits.  If you get a small enough drill
bit you will not drill into the frame but simply drill out some of the rust
from the gap between the relay and the frame cylinder it sits in.  I made
about six of these holes around the relay and then used them to get the
kryol further up to loosen the rust.  Once this was done I managed to get
more and more movement and simply kept working it out.  
        It was a frustrating and time consuming procedure.  I got some other
suggestions using small jackhammers and such but find I tend to get over
zealous when using power tools.  Hope this helps......

                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                       '73 SWB SHED     

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:32:05 EDT
Subject: Re-Stuck Steering Relay

>I had similar problems, and decided to leave the %$*^^ thing in there. But
>I'll have to remove it sometime. What I was thinking of doing is to remove
>the innards, and then to saw the relay body in three and to then knock it
>inwards.

When I replaced one of these it was a pig of a job. I Oiled, jacked, hammered,
heated and swore at it for hours. Eventually I had to abandon the job for the
day as family commitments had to be attended to. Next morning I arrived to
renew the battle and found the relay was almost out! I had left the thing
jacked up on the relay and the weight of the vehicle had slowly pushed it out.
Perhaps all the oil etc had eased it?

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid 

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:32:17 EDT
Subject: Re-Breckland LRC 50 th

Christopher 
I went along on Sunday and it was quite good, plenty of trade stands and an
auction 3pm. Exelent off road course, better in fact than other fun days held
at Bircham. Only downer was that it was rather poorly attended.

Does this make you bronze green with envy or just a little NATO matt.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:32:19 EDT
Subject: Re-Power steering and MOT

Thanks to all who sent advise on sorting my power steering problems. It now
seems fine following adjusting the box and re-fitting the drop arm, along with
a few new suspension bushes. That drop arm nut takes a torque setting of 125
Lb/Ft no wonder they can be difficult to remove.

Tommorow sees the annual visit to the MOT tester, wish me luck.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:55:11 +0200
Subject: Subjects chaps?

<whinemode>

Has everyone forgotten the purpose of subject lines? Just wondering?

</whinemode>

Happy rovering!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 19:58:16 +0100
Subject: Power steering

Hi...

Since the subject has been brought up, I would appreciate comments (not too
derogatory) on power-steered 101s. (101s - one track mind here :)

Along with the unfortunately not ENV axles, I also acquired a hydraulic ram
from a Massey Ferguson combine harvester. The ram is totally self
contained - all it needs is constant pressure from a pump. The valves are
internal, and it simply amplifies any movement in the steering. I thought
this would be far easier that screwing around with LHD Rangey power steering
units (and the problem of the 90 degree bend between the ps unit and the
steering box) and the mess this makes of things in general.

However, I have heard that these units are not very precise at speed, and
are therefore used only on low (combine harvester) speed vehicles. Which is
a pity, 'cos it is a nice, small compact unit. I read somewhere (possible
LORi) that an Italian manufacturer makes kits similar to this for Landys.

Has anyone fitted one of these to their vehicle? Has anyone any horribly
dreadful tales of woe that happened to someone else who had this bright(?)
idea?

Cheers,

Micky.

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:09:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Power steering

On Wed, 1 Jul 1998, Micky Cormack wrote:

<snip about massy tractor steering box.>
 
> However, I have heard that these units are not very precise at speed, and
 are therefore used only on low (combine harvester) speed vehicles. Which is
 a pity, 'cos it is a nice, small compact unit. I read somewhere (possible
 LORi) that an Italian manufacturer makes kits similar to this for
> Landys.

I have no experience with the ram you have, but the general problem is
that at speed the amount of effort that is required for steering is much
reduced.  If your power source doesn't adjust forthis, you get a vewhicle
that is rather unstable, since the ram overboosts, and you compensate by
jerking the wheel back the other way, which is over amplified by the ram,
etc.  

david

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:01:30 +0200
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

Never heard that one Nate - after all the clutch plate doesn't "know"
that the vehicle has been taken apart, so it doesn't "know" that it
hasn't been replaced? (Maybe too philosophic, but you get my drift?)

I expect a pressure to be clean and shiny, no scratches or stains, no
tracks. if that's the case, I change the driven plate and reuse the
pressure plate. IMHO its the spring leaves which are critical.

At the end of the day, it's a question of money - how much are you
prepared to overmaintain your rover, contra how many times are you
prepared to pull the gearbox because you used something once too often.

If I pull the box, I always change the driven plate.

I am now assuming that the driven plate is the fibre disc which sits
between the flywheel and the other bit which revolves and has lots of
spring splines - which i also presume is called the pressure plate - if
I have got the terminonoly a**e-about-face adjust my comments
accordingly!

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:05:24 +0200
Subject: Re: Switching sides...

Adams, Bill wrote:
Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge
on the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to
me.

asfco wrote:
 /...> 'Why??? Just wondering
Rgds > Steve Bradke 72 series 111 88 

Adrian asks:

Does Steve live in the UK and drive on the right? Here in DK, I have
often wished that the rear door opened towards the pavement (sidewalk)

If steve is LHD - then sorry for the snide comment - no harm inteded!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
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Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:24:02 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

In a message dated 7/1/98 3:15:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< At the end of the day, it's a question of money - how much are you
 prepared to overmaintain your rover, contra how many times are you
 prepared to pull the gearbox because you used something once too often. >>

This probably is exactly the point:  For a mechanic, the main cost to the
client is the time pulling the thing apart.  If one does not mind the hassle
of pulling the gearbox, then it would be worthwhile replacing the fewest parts
possible at each repair.

For me, if I'm in there, I'd rather renew all possible/probable trouble spots
and put it back together.  This is based on my driving habits--I get 100K-150K
miles on a clutch without a problem, regardless of make or model.  I do know
some motorheads who are rough on a clutch and 50K is an optimistic goal for
them.  In that case, I may try to get by with just a driven plate.  All I know
is, I have never had chronic clutch problems following this regimen.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:39:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Hi Neil,

60 and 70 are possible, but the Land Rover engine needs kindness.

Sounds like you are a new owner?

Bung a bottle full of STP/Wynns/Red X for petrol in half a tankfull and go for
a thrash on the motorway. Middle of the night is a good idea 'cos if it hasn't
been looked after all manner of substances are going to come out of the
exhaust pipe.

Then give it a really good service, new plugs, air filter (breathing is
everything with the infernal combustion engine) fuel filter, timing, new
engine oil - the lot....... (probably a dozen things I've forgotten as well)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Alan Bishop" <alan@owls-house.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 21:34:48 +0100
Subject: Another S2 Q - Tyres

Back again with another question!

The series 2 has 205x16's on its wheels touching the road (wait for it!) and
a 7.5x16 on its spare. I have just noticed this whilst preparing / servicing
before driving from Worcester to Liverpool for a wedding this weekend (I am
picking up a bumper for the S3 on the way - why waste a journey!!).

Now even I can tell that these are not compatible seeing as side by side
there is about a 4" height difference. The question is which is best - the
S3 has 7.5X16 the spare being brand new, so the ideal would be to have them
all the same but what difference does this make to the speed and speedo
readings etc.

Any advice or pointers would be gratefully received because I don't want to
go out and buy a spare 205x16 to find this is not the best option, nor do I
want to take the wheels off the S3 to find it causes major problems.

TIA

Regards

Alan.

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:53:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Re-Stuck Steering Relay

In a message dated 01/07/98 19:33:24 BST, you write:

<< When I replaced one of these it was a pig of a job. I Oiled, jacked,
hammered,
 heated and swore at it for hours. Eventually I had to abandon the job for the
 day as family commitments had to be attended to. Next morning I arrived to
 renew the battle and found the relay was almost out! I had left the thing
 jacked up on the relay and the weight of the vehicle had slowly pushed it
out.
 Perhaps all the oil etc had eased it?
  >>
That's the world record, Mike.
Not the swearing, you have to swear at it for days to be in with a chance of
the also rans.....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:12:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Left hand swing...

>Bill Adams:
>The problem is that in order to place items in the rear, one must 
>sometimes step into traffic.

So?
:-]

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:17:04
Subject: Re: different size and type spare

	The series 88's came stock with 700x16 and the 109's with 7.50x16.  I
assume the diameter of the 700x16's to be less than the 750's so the 205's
may approximate the 700x16 tires.  In any case the wrong diameter tire will
affect the accuracy of your speedometer, any tire dealer can tell you the
diameters of the various size tires.  It is no problem having a different
sized spare if you don't use it on a driven axle.  On a driven axle it will
make the diff think its constantly in a turn and greatly increase wear.  If
the spare is good, you could change the road tires to the spare size when
they wear out or vice versa.  If you keep the spare and have a flat, make
sure the same size tires stay on the rear axle which may require a double
change (spare to good front, front to flat rear).  I have a 750x16 spare
with 235/85/16's on the road.  Have used the spare occasionally for short
distances and it works ok as the diameter is nearly identical to the
235/85's.  The reason I keep the 7.50x16 is that it is hood (bonnet)
mounted and the lower profile makes it easier to see over.  
	Of course the 7.50 is bias and 235's radial and it is not recommended 
that
radial and bias tires be used together.  If you do go that route be very
careful while driving especially in poor traction or high speed as the side
grip of the two types of tires are very different and can make handling
interesting.  From experience, I think it is more of a way for sleazy
lawyers to get money out of tire dealers.  Driven to the edge the different
types of tires may make a difference, however.  
	I do what you are doing but only use the spare as a spare.  I
change/repair a flat at the first opportunity, like the next gas station.
Aloha Peter

At 09:34 PM 7/1/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Back again with another question!
>The series 2 has 205x16's on its wheels touching the road (wait for it!) and
>a 7.5x16 on its spare. I have just noticed this whilst preparing / servicing
>before driving from Worcester to Liverpool for a wedding this weekend (I am
>picking up a bumper for the S3 on the way - why waste a journey!!).
>Now even I can tell that these are not compatible seeing as side by side

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
>Regards
>Alan.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:39:02 EDT
Subject: Re:  Subjects chaps?

Ok, so you wanna talk about chaps. I had a pair way back when my momma used to
dress me up for halloween like a cowboy (last year), and you see rodeo riders
wearing them, but in a Land Rover? I think even the mostest biggest urban
cowboy won't wear chaps in his LR... well, maybe if it has one of those fancy
wooden dashes....    ;-)

.02 ECUs

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Elwyn <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 22:43:34 +0100
Subject: Main Bearings

Hi Folks

OK. I know what that rumble/grinding noise is! Yep, once again it is the
Main Bearings, or a rumble from them, a freind mentioned when he last drove
it! Just my luck!

OK. While in the pub this evening a freind mentioned some sort of
engine-oil additive which could make the main bearing not "go critical" so
soon.

Any help would be much apprecieated.  Afterall, i only put the sod in the
end of May!!!

Toodle for now

Elwyn
S3 '72 Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk (Direct)

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:57:56 EDT
Subject: Re:  Main Bearings

In a message dated 7/1/98 5:45:09 PM, you wrote:

>OK. While in the pub this evening a freind mentioned some sort of
>engine-oil additive which could make the main bearing not "go critical" so
>soon.

Did he give you specifics at the start of the evening or a vague description
at the end? ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 00:03:24 +0200
Subject: Re: Chaps subjects?

So what are these chaps spuders is referring to chaps?

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, so you wanna talk about chaps. I had a pair way back when my momma used to
> dress me up for halloween like a cowboy (last year), and you see rodeo riders
> wearing them, but in a Land Rover? I think even the mostest biggest urban
> cowboy won't wear chaps in his LR... well, maybe if it has one of those fancy
> wooden dashes....    ;-)
> .02 ECUs

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> .02 ECUs
> --pat.

-- 
Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 00:00:51 +0200
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

My feelings entirely Nate!

Though many users who are rovering on a shoestring would maintain that
our regimen (I didn't know that pathologists had a regimen!) is
extravagent. Having pulled a gearbox three times in a weekend last year
- on my own - I wouldn't take to many chances. (I made exactly the
mistake you refer to - and paid the price in sweat!)

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/1/98 3:15:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:
> << At the end of the day, it's a question of money - how much are you
>  prepared to overmaintain your rover, contra how many times are you
>  prepared to pull the gearbox because you used something once too often. >>
> This probably is exactly the point:  For a mechanic, the main cost to the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> is, I have never had chronic clutch problems following this regimen.
> Nate

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
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------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 19:43:32 EDT
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

In a message dated 7/1/98 6:16:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< (I didn't know that pathologists had a regimen!) >>

Oh My Adrian!

Pathology is a very British speciality!  Protocol and regimen! Regimen and
protocol!
Autopsy protocol
Lymph node protocol
Bone Marrow protocol
Leukemia protocol
Carcinoma versus sarcoma protocol
Breast protocol
	Breast biopsy protocol
	Breast mastectomy protocol
		Breast mastectomy protocol following breast biopsy protocol
		Breast mastectomy without prior biopsy protocol

You get the point.

Guess it was natural to lean towards British cars

Nate

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:44:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Chaps subjects?

On Thu, 2 Jul 1998, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> So what are these chaps spuders is referring to chaps?

They are a sort of half pant that cow folk wear to keep their pants from
getting soiled by their horse.  Lumberjacks wear a similiar thing to keep
from cutting their legs off with a chainsaw. 

David

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:47:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

On Wed, 1 Jul 1998 NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> 		Breast mastectomy without prior biopsy protocol
> You get the point.
> Guess it was natural to lean towards British cars

The only Land-Rover repair protocol is hit with a lump hammer until fixed,
using as large a hammer as available, isn't it?

David

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:00:20
Subject: DOT-4

Adrian, check the PH! The more acidic the shorter the life of your rubber
seals. I use silicon brake fluid, PH of about 7.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:38:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Switching sides...

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Adams, Bill wrote:
> Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge
> on the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to
> me.
> asfco wrote:
>  /...> 'Why??? Just wondering
> Rgds > Steve Bradke 72 series 111 88
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> If steve is LHD - then sorry for the snide comment - no harm inteded!
>>>>Steve is LHD  most times
Rgds
Steve Bradke NY USA

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:43:58 -0400
Subject: Steering relay

  Once again the subject of removing steering relays has come up, found the
following in my out box, ( I usually delete them after a few days ) 

 The best advise is. don't. It is not necessary to remove the steering relay
to overhaul it, if you want to remove it to put in another frame then just
cut the old frame away. Whilst the relay is secure in the frame, it is in
the best place, trying hard to remove it will only damage it. I have also
seen cases where after removal the fit of the idler in its location was poor
and this caused steering  problems due to movement. 
 Start by removing the top and bottom  steering arms, then the lower end
cover, then push the shaft down slowly until the phenolic split bearings
start to appear, put a jubilee ( hose ) clip around the bearing and continue
to push the shaft downwards until the second bearing appears, place a hose
clip around that one also and completely remove the shaft and bearing
assembly. be very careful, the spring between the bearings is very strong
and can propel the bearing pieces and anything else in its path quite a long
way. The first time  I stripped a steering idler part of the bearing went
through the ceiling after parting my hair, I did not look at a diagram and
did not know the thing was spring loaded.
 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:31:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Chaps subjects?

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> So what are these chaps spuders is referring to chaps?.

Leggings, made out of leather. Make you walk funny, but keep you from 
getting chapped where you don't want to be chapped, otherwise you would 
be walking funny. Primary use is with a horse, but I'm sure someone in 
the crowd does the role playing thingy ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Robert M McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:43:22 -0400
Subject: steering relay removal

good luck with removing the relay, they can be very hard to remove if
they are rusted up. i tried all the usual and a few unusual methods of
removing it and managed to bang up the frame a bit.  if it is frozen in
place as bad as you say, it will fight you till the very last 1/16 of an
inch. by far the fastest, easiest and least damaging to the rover and
yourself way of removing the relay is to press it out with a hydraulic
port-a-power or an upright press. saves many hours of frustration, IMHO
the penetrating oil has to travel a good ways so it won't be of much use

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:52:22 -0400

 >Checking the compression ratio on two 2.25 litre engines with designed 8:1 
compression ratios, I found the following results:

       A              B
     127          113
     121          117
     118          116

 You have two very rare vehicles here, I thought only Wartburgs were 3 cylinder.

 Try a squirt of oil in each cylinder and repeat the test, this will
indicate if it is ring or valve wear.  How good is the pressure gauge ? Has
it been calibrated ?
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Elwyn <eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 03:30:34 +0100
Subject: Re:  Main Bearings

At 17:57 01/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 7/1/98 5:45:09 PM, you wrote:
>>OK. While in the pub this evening a freind mentioned some sort of
>>engine-oil additive which could make the main bearing not "go critical" so
>>soon.
>Did he give you specifics at the start of the evening or a vague description
>at the end? ;-)

How do you mean? He said it was some sort of lubricant that gave the
bearings more "slick" to make them last longer. I am not sure whether he
was pulling my leg as this is my third engine, 1st landrover and in 8
months!!!

Cheers 

Elwyn
S3 '72 Lightweight. "Green Brick"
Eyork@ey-eg.demon.co.uk (Direct)

------------------------------

From: russw@lycosmail.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:00:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Color question

 ---- you wrote: 
> Were series rovers ever *white*? 
yes
> Q: Why do the men in Scotland wear kilts?
> A: Because the sheep can hear a zipper a mile away.
Q: What does a Scotsman wear under his kilt?
A: Your wife's lipstick

Glad I could help

Russ W. and the Pig

Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:00:26 EDT
Subject: Car Show with LR class

Hi all; British Cars of NH is having thier car show this Sunday in Milford NH 
at the High Hopes Festival which is right off route 101 bypass in Milford.
Just follow the signs to High Hopes. 
Steve F
69 SIIA 88 bugeye
65 SIIA 88

------------------------------

From: Jtwinkle88@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:24:11 EDT
Subject: Carberators

I have a 1969 Series IIA with a Zenith. It has some problems after a good
cleaning and rebuild that are difficult to overcome. I am considering a
Rochester or Weber single barrel for cost considerations and have read Jim
Allens benchflow information...any suggestions?? I understand a few with weber
single barrels have vapor locked several times due to heat off the manifold at
our altitude(7000 + feet)

Thanks 

John

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 10:35:04 +0000
Subject: Re:  Subjects chaps?

Ok, so you wanna talk about chaps. I had a pair way back when my momma used to
dress me up for halloween like a cowboy (last year), and you see rodeo riders
wearing them, but in a Land Rover? I think even the mostest biggest urban
>cowboy won't wear chaps in his LR... well, maybe if it has one of those fancy
>wooden dashes....    ;-)
Bloody good idea,chaps in a Land Rover.Keep your legs warm,your jeans
(relatively)clean and dry,and they wouldnt get tangled up in the gear
levers like Drizabone.Horsemans overalls.But *dont* get the furry
(Montana?) type.All that grease and crud would make 'em awfully heavy to wear.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Adrian Walden <a.walden@wave.co.nz>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 98 22:01:27 +1200
Subject: Re: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hi Paul and Frank, 
thanks for the replies, you don't happen to know whether those South African 
chassis treated during production were modified for the galvanising or were 
they standard ? 

Perhaps as Frank wrote, LR put them through the process a bit more slowly "cos 
they weren't in so much of a hurry."

Frank, wrt that galvanised 110 chassis your hooning around on-did you do it 
yourself or buy it that way ? What I'm getting at I guess is- is it standard or 
did somebody in the motherland fabricate it for galvanising ?

WRT the bulkheads Paul says go for it no problem, Frank says he is aware of 
some warping cos they are too thin. Hmmm, you can see why this is causing me 
some angst. Perhaps if a make a reinforcing frame up for the chassis and 
bulkhead (thats a 
firewall Paul !) I can prevent any distortion (getting expensive mind you). I 
might also speak to the manager of the galvanising plant about putting  it 
through slowly  in a cooler run perhaps ?

Fortunatly there is a bit of time before I can do this, in the interim I'm all 
ears folks.

Regards

Adrian Walden

>------------------------------
>From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
>Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:07:39 +0200
>Subject: Re: >Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles
>Adrian Walden wrote:
>> Hi Everybody,
>> I have followed with interest the discussion on chassis galvanising. I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 66 lines)]
>            I ____|î_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
>            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 12:50:40 +0200
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Adrian Walden wrote:
> thanks for the replies, you don't happen to know whether those South African 
chassis treated during production were modified for the galvanising or were 
they standard ?

Standard

> WRT the bulkheads Paul says go for it no problem, Frank says he is aware of 
some warping cos they are too thin. 

Hey, what's a little warping between LRO's :->

Only the flat sections warp, not the frame, so the only effect is that
the little bit you see above the bonnet might have a slight wavy effect.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

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