Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 06:04:35 -0000
Subject: Re: Engine Noises

>front main bearing I noticed a piece of metal under the timing chain.

This the timing chain vibration dampener.  It is more than just a piece 
of metal.  It should have an asbestos pad attached to it that the chain 
floats slightly above.  Whipping of the chain tears it apart.

Check your oil pressure.  Low pressure is death for Rover chains, 
eventually allowing for slack, stretching of the chain, and whipping on 
deceleration that takes the tensioner out.

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:39:23 +0200
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding

This DOT4 discussion confuses me. I have checked with my LR workshop
here in Denmark, and no-one uses Castrol Girling DOT 4 over here - just
a generic DOT4 which complies with the SAE J 1703 and IVO 116 standard
which the manual proscribes.

I don't know about the US and UK, but over here DOT 4 is DOT 4?

Does this make sense?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:53:08 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: bye bye

Today it's my last day at work (end contract) so i will be loosing E-mail 
also. So bye, bye and thanks for almost 3 years of rovering on the web.

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'80 FFR lightweight.

------------------------------

From: Dave Haynes <david.haynes@roke.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:56:11 +0100
Subject: Clutch Bleeding

Adrian

I had the same problem with my '78 Rangie, when I changed the slave
cylinder. I wimped out (time pressure, no tools, blah, blah blah) and
visited the local garage. They had a bleed tool that used compressed air
to suck fluid out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple. Five minutes and
five portraits of our illustrious majesty later, I had a perfect clutch.
The manual bleed method seems to either take an inordinate amount of
time or just not work in my case. I think an 'eazibleed' type tool that 
pressurises the master cylinder should work OK.

Cheers n Beers

Dave

Adrian Redmond wrote:-
> But no pressure at the pedal, and no clutch action - any ideas? Have I

 

Dave Haynes				Tel : +44 1794 833583

Roke Manor Research Ltd.		Fax : +44 1794 833586

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:07:21 -0400
Subject: Lanham

Hi All,

Just put up a batch of pictures taken at Lanham this past weekend. 
They include the Shorland, which is my personal favorite. Love one to 
go into New York! The D110 is #1/500

Peter Goundry
67 GS 109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: "Alex Easton" <easton@big.net.au>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:35:48 +1000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

----------
>unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:21:22 EDT
Subject: Re:  RE: Chassis Maintenence

In a message dated 6/27/98 11:04:26 AM, you wrote:

>May
>have to buy a Norton motorcycle to give the rovers a summer vacation.

Well, they *are* easier to push than a LR...  ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:38:35 EDT
Subject: Re:  LRNA Weekend Event at Lanham Creek, MD

In a message dated 6/28/98 10:39:14 AM, you wrote:

>The facilities are excellent,
>LRNA has the instructors and class material already, why not create one
>or two day "light" versions of some of the classes and sell them to the
>largest potential market -- the customers? Once a month? Once a quarter?
>$200 - $600 a weekend?

Doubt they'd consider doing it. For one it would take away from the $$$ their
dealers rake in (causing them to howl)... and it would probably also lead to
many cases of owners getting into something over their heads. I think that a
lot of what can be a DIY job on modern LRs is pretty apparent already once you
read through the factory manual.  The amount of tools one would need to even
lightly delve into a modern gearbox or ignition is enough for most owners to
take the vehicle to someone who does it everyday.

.02

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:14:55 EDT
Subject: Re:  bye bye

What?! Lose contact with lro-list? Not! Go to the digest on the web... get a
hotmail acc't... I think even lycos or maybe yahoo offer free e-mail...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:11:07 +0200
Subject: Re: Stuck Steering Relay

Hi Rick and all

>Wow is it stuck!  I am trying to remove the steering relay
>from my '71 IIA and am having no fun.

I had similar problems, and decided to leave the %$*^^ thing in there. But
I'll have to remove it sometime. What I was thinking of doing is to remove
the innards, and then to saw the relay body in three and to then knock it
inwards.

So tell me how it works out...

Wouter

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:22:37 EDT
Subject: Color question

Were series rovers ever *white*? I saw one this weekend, and it looked funny.
They may have been going for the Alpine White of D/RR LRs, but  they ended up
with Caddilac White, with original (faded) roof and wheels. Hmmm. Oh well, I'm
about to send all the LR paint codes to the owner so he can have a look at
what the car should look like.

--pat.

ps:

Q: Why do the men in Scotland wear kilts?
A: Because the sheep can hear a zipper a mile away.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:30:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Color question

My Humble Opinion, but All White Land Rovers, should have black "UN"
lettering on them...

Richard (who just chose a new watch, because it had an Aluminium Case)

SPYDERS@aol.com on 06/30/98 02:22:37 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Color question

Were series rovers ever *white*? I saw one this weekend, and it looked
funny.
They may have been going for the Alpine White of D/RR LRs, but  they ended
up
with Caddilac White, with original (faded) roof and wheels. Hmmm. Oh well,
I'm
about to send all the LR paint codes to the owner so he can have a look at
what the car should look like.
--pat.
ps:
Q: Why do the men in Scotland wear kilts?
A: Because the sheep can hear a zipper a mile away.

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:24:55 -0400
Subject: Plea

OK, gang, here's what I need ya' to do....SEND IN THE REGISTRATIONS FOR THE
50TH AT GREEK PEAK!  I realise what an anthema the whole concept of
pre-registration is to Rover owners, but ya' gotta do it.

Fo the past four years at the Mid-Atlantic (which, BTW is limited this year
to pre-regs as of September 1st), half of the folks would simply show up
the day of the event.  Does anyone have any idea how hard it is to arrange
for meals for several hundred people 30 miles from the nearest stoplight?
Especially when you don't know half of them are coming?

The organizers at ANARC have put *A LOT* of work into this event to make it
the biggest and best ever in North America.  In involves unprecedented
cooperation amongst an bunch of clubs, and the least you chumps can do is
send in the bloody forms.

Now don't say you don't have 'em.  The registration form has been available
to download since April (at <rover-clubs.org>), I've mailed out 700 and
handed out another 250...and I imagine all the other clubs involved have
done the same.  So get off your collective butts, pry open that wallet or
cheque book and send in the form.

Rover owners are the most parsimonious bunch on the face of the earth.
(I've seen people on the list asking for used parts that only cost a couple
o' quid new.)  The meals are at cost and the registration fee is only half
that at Stowe.  And one thing is for sure, if you don't pre-register, you
won't get fed.  Greek Peak is very much out in the sticks, and with the
exception of one pricey (but very good) restaurant, there is *nothing* else
around.

SOOOO....get out of low range, find the form, stroke a cheque, drop it in
the mail.  Do it today!  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:25:00 -0400
Subject: Drafting

john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:

>A better solution is to remain in the fast lane when there is a good
supply >of heavy trucks around. These usually have plenty of power to
assist your >rate of speed.

Woof...drafting behind big lorries...not for the feint of heart.  Yes, the
Rover does that quite well.  If you pull up within 5-10 feet (where the
driver can't see you), you can back *way* off on the pedal.  The square
back end of the rover will really push you along.  YMMV

I was once on the road in a severe squall with 60+ MPH winds from dead
astern.  Once up to speed, the winds would push me along the interstate at
40 MPH...

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:27:58 -0400
Subject: Switching sides...

Just musing, has anybody changed the swing of their rear door to hinge on 
the left instead of the right. This has been a constant annoyance to me. 
Discoverys carry on this tradition to this day. I would have thought that 
the factory could have arranged for door swing according to country of 
destination.
I think that the handle and latch from a LH side door could be installed 
and the hinges swapped without too much headache.
I don't want to change to a tailgate, as the gate gets in the way, IMO.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:52:53 -0700
Subject: brake fade

Hi Paul,
The 69 brakes are split front/rear.
In the master cyl there is a tipper valve in each circuit to release the
pressure when the pedal is back to the top.
The one that does the rear is not sealing properly. You can watch the
plastic reservoir and pump the pedal, you will see the surge of fluid
leaking back to the reservoir.
Sometimes when it is failing you can do a quick re-pump and regain the full
braking.

Good luck,
Bob Bernard
Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Shorty"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:44:26 -0700
Subject: leaky valves - was -  brake fade

Thanks for the info Bob,

Does this leaking valve problem often only crop up when things get hot?
This problem only occurs after extended stop and go driving, and
disappears after the car (and it's brakes) cool down again.  Double
pumping doesn't help matters at all.

Paul in Victoria.

	 Bob wrote:

	Hi Paul,
	The 69 brakes are split front/rear.
	In the master cyl there is a tipper valve in each circuit to
release the
	pressure when the pedal is back to the top.
	The one that does the rear is not sealing properly. You can
watch the
	plastic reservoir and pump the pedal, you will see the surge of
fluid
	leaking back to the reservoir.
	Sometimes when it is failing you can do a quick re-pump and
regain the full
	braking.

	Good luck,
	Bob Bernard
	Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
	Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
	69-88 "Sherman"
	65-88 "Olivia"
	51-80 "Shorty"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:47:38 -0400
Subject: Re: leaky valves - was - brake fade

The change with fading makes me wonder if the brake master pushrod might be
misadjusted. I saw a similar problem on my 109 with a misadjusted pushrod -
the brakes would lock when the system warmed up because the pushrod would
never completely release, hence the input valve wouldn't release the fluid.

Might be worth a check, 'specially if you've had a new master on or some
such.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:01:07 +0100
Subject: Re: leaky valves - was - brake fade

I suggested this as a "might just be". If two of us have suggested it, then
perhaps its true! :-)

I've seen the problem with the clutch pedal. Really strange symptoms, in
that the problem went away after a few minutes!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com on 06/30/98 04:47:38 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: leaky valves - was - brake fade

The change with fading makes me wonder if the brake master pushrod might be
misadjusted. I saw a similar problem on my 109 with a misadjusted pushrod -
the brakes would lock when the system warmed up because the pushrod would
never completely release, hence the input valve wouldn't release the fluid.
Might be worth a check, 'specially if you've had a new master on or some
such.
                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:22:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel pump rebuild question

Someone asked:
>Has anyone figured out a replacement for the oil seal in the bottom of the
>pump?

And TerriAnn responded:
> Ben Smith used a brake cylinder boot once when his died in the field.  He 
> says it works.  He has an 88 so I assume it was from an 88 wheel 
> cylinder.  It was a number of years ago.  I think it is still in Dora.

	Actually what I used was the flatish round bit that seals to the
inside of the brake cylinder.   

	A number of years ago I was driving from the Mojave Desert to north
of the San Francisco Bay area.  Along I-5 I noticed that something was wrong.
So I pulled over.  I couldn find anything, but low oil.  So I topped that
off and started off again.  Withing the next 10 miles I lost most of my 
engine oil.  At freeway speeds, I heard a whirring sound, glanced at the oil
pressure gauge and saw it dropping.  So I shut off the engine and coasted
to a halt at a nearby off-ramp in the middle of nowhere.   

	About now someone with a trailer pulled of next to me and offered to
town to the next town for $200.  I hadn't even looked to see what the problem
was, so I declined.

	I quickly determined that the oil was missing (the buildup on the
rear door confirmed this :-) and that on onlhy major source of leaks was
the fuel pump.  The fuel pump????!?!?!    So I pulled that.   Now for those
not familiar with the Series fuel pump, it is mounted on the side of the
engine and mechanical.  A finger rides on the cam and thus is covered in oil.
After muttering a prayer to the goddess of auto repair, I took the screws off
that clamp the two parts of the fuel pump together and separated them.  In
between them is the diaphram for pumping.   I didn't have a rebuild kit with
me, so if I buggered the diaphram, getting Dora running would be a wee bit 
harder.  The Gods smiled and it came apart ok.   I then took the diaphram,
which has a rod attached to the center to drive it, out.  That rod goes
through the aformentioned oilseal (which I later found is not in the rebuild 
kit).  Next a metal retainer is crimped over the oil seal.  Once this was out
I was down to the oil seal, which was torn alomst in half.

	So how was it leaking that much oil, you ask?  Well the lower half of
the pump as a hold drilled in it to allow air in so thay the pump is not
fighting pressuer when the diaphram is pulled down to draw in fuel.  That 
displaced air is forced out the hold.  Likewise when the rod pushed the diaphram
up to pump the fuel into the line, air is drawn in through the hold.  When
the oil seal is ruptured, oil is drawn in via the rod and is expelled out 
that little hole.   A lot of oil.

	So off I went to my spares box to see if I had a spare oil seal.  No
luck, but I did find a new gasket for the fuel pump.  In the container for 
brake parts I found the inner seal.  It is flat and about the correct size.
It did have a crown lip around the perimeter, but that was easily removed with
my swiss army knife.  I then poked a hole in the middle for the rod.  It
looked like it would work.  So I put it all together.  Now all was going
too well.  When I hooked up the fuel lines, I cross threaded one of them.  
The steel of the line buggerd the aluminum threads of the fuel pump. I could
get the line in, but it wouldn't quite seal and gas woudl esacpe by the
threads.  Drat.  So off I was to the spares box.  And I found a little 
rubber grommet of the correct diameter.  With a prayer that this was not the
type of rubber that gas eats, I put it at the bottom of the fuel line hole
and threaded the fuel lin in behind it.  The grommit made a good seal!  So
I fired up Dora and was on my way again with only a few hour delay.

	That fuel repair held for the next 40,000 miles over 3 years.  Knowing
Rovers it probably only held because I procued a spare fuel pump from Dixon
to swap in when the repair failed.  The repaired fuel pump died when it's
diaphram got weak and could no longer draw fuel from a half full tank at
7000 or 8000 feet, which I discovered on the trail.  In needed the head
pressure from the tank to work.   So at the end of that trip last summer I
replaced the fuel pump.  The old pump is in pieces on my workbend awaiting
a rebuild.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "bill.di" <bill.di@mci2000.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:00:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Assessing Compression Ratios

Checking the compression ratio on two 2.25 litre engines with designed 8:1 
compression ratios, I found the following results:

       A              B
     127          113
     121          117
     118          116

This is with the engines hot, with the carburator throttle valve wide open, and 
with the air cleaner assembly hose removed from the carburator.  A service and 
repair manual specifies a compression pressure of 160 to 170 PSI.  So the above 
measured 
ratios seem *awfully* low, to an inexperienced person like myself, as well as 
perhaps a little irratic in the case of engine "A".

Anyone care to disect these ratios (e.g., do these engines have one foot in the 
grave already)?

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:18:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Assessing Compression Ratios

Re: Rover feet in the grave:

Yes and no.

Yes, the numbers are very low for an 8:1 engine. No, that does not mean the
engines are scrap.

I'll lay big odds they use buckets of oil....

I think an oil-test might be in order. A tablespoon or two of oil in the
bores, rotate the engine once or twice, then see what the compression is.
Odds are, it will go up over 10%, which points to worn rings.

Myself, I'd get 'em open and have a look at the bores and the valves. If
the bore wear isn't bad, then ridge-cutting, deglazing and a new set of
rings would probably significantly improve oil control. I realize that this
statement will offend the purists who would insist on a rebore with new
pistons and rings, but it's an easy way to get performance back if the
bores aren't badly worn.

While you've got the head off, re-lapping the valves and replacing the
seals is also cheap and easy. All of these things can also be done with the
engine in the car, which saves a boatload of work.

Whattheheck, rings and gasket sets are cheap...8*)

                                   ajr

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:27:34 -0700
Subject: RE: Assessing Compression Ratios

I cut the following section from a wonderfully informative web page that
I recommend to everyone.

http://www.autosite.com/garage/encyclop/tocdoc.asp

This is their scoop on compression testing...Hope it pastes well enough
to be readable.

Paul in Victoria.

Begin Past.

B. Diagnosing Compression Problems

Compression: You can't leave home without it. It's one leg of the tripod
that supports internal combustion, just as important as
fuel and ignition. Regardless of all the geewhiz technology in modern
engines, that basic physical fact is exactly the same now as
it was well over a century ago when the Otto cycle was invented. So,
underneath that high-tech exterior there's still just a piston
pump. 

Sure, today's cars typically go a long, long way before they develop
conditions that reduce compression. But the key word
here is "typically" -- there will always be plenty of exceptions. Then
there are vehicles that have exceeded that long, long way,
but are still worth fixing. 

The following is intended to help you cope with cases of weak
compression. Since nothing will damage the pride you take in
your knowledge of cars more than a misdiagnosis, I'll devote plenty of
space to testing procedures. And I'll add some practical
advice on policies and decision-making. 

Hark

The first thing to do is listen carefully, both to what your brain is
trying to tell you about the symptoms and to the power-plant
itself. Asking a few question in your head will help: Is the idle
uneven? Are power and fuel mileage declining? Does it smoke
and use a lot of oil? How about backfiring, hard starting, or high
emissions that resulted in failure of a state pollution test? Has
the engine been properly maintained? What work has been done on it? Take
the time to be sure of your answers. 

Start it up and note if it cranks unevenly or takes a long time to fire
up, both of which suggest poor compression. Go for a ride
to confirm the complaint. 

If you happen to have access to a scope, use it to find out if the
ignition system is in good shape -- it would be pretty
embarrassing to pull a head only to find that a bad plug, wire, or cap
was really the culprit. If you had a computerized engine
analyzer, you could do electronic or relative compression and cylinder
balance tests. 

Of course, most do-it-yourselfers, and even some technicians, like to
get an initial idea of the situation with a manual cylinder
balance check. You know, where you pull one plug wire at a time to find
out if a particular hole has little or no effect on idle
quality and speed when disabled. This is still about the most useful
troubleshooting trick known to man, especially where there's
a definite miss. That is, if you remember to disable whatever
computerized idle stabilization device is present. And use well
insulated boot pliers or that hotstuff electronic ignition might blow
your pacemaker. Where possible, kill injection instead of
spark. 

Sucker test

A vacuum gauge can be helpful at this point, although its readings may
be inconclusive or ambiguous. You'll get the most useful
results at curb idle speed with the engine fully warmed up. A typical
healthy power-plant will produce 1520 in. Hg. 

A steady low reading may be caused by a vacuum leak or late valve timing
due to a worn or jumpedcamshaft drive mechanism.
If the needle drops at regular intervals, suspect a leaking valve,
whereas if such drops occur irregularly, a sticking valve is
indicated. Floating over a wide range suggests a bad head gasket seal.
Rapid needle vibration is evidence of loose valve guides.

Since back-pressure can interfere with cylinder filling, check for a
clogged catalytic converter or crimped pipe by holding 2,500
rpm. The reading will drop when you first open the throttle, then
stabilize. If it starts to fall afterwards, there's probably an
exhaust restriction. 

PSI

Whether or not you've isolated a cylinder or two as the source of the
problem, it's time to unscrew the spark plugs and do a
traditional dry/wet compression test. You probably already know how to
do that, but here are a few subtleties that'll help you
avoid a costly mistake: 

     On aluminum heads, better loosen those plugs with the engine cold,
then just snug them back down enough to fire it up. 
     Readings will only be accurate at normal operating temperature. 
     Blow out the plug wells or flotsam and jetsam could hold a good
valve off its seat. 
     Pull all the plugs at once to make cranking easier. 
     Make sure the battery and starter are up to the task of achieving
normal cranking rpm. 
     Block open the throttle plate and, if you're working on a car with
a carb, the choke. 
     Disable the ignition, preferably on the primary side. Letting those
dangling wires arc won't only zap the secondary circuit
     components with more voltage than they might be able to take, it's
also asking for an explosion. 
     Even though the clear-flood mode is supposed to halt injection
during WOT (Wide Open Throttle) crank, you can be
     doubly certain to eliminate gasoline spray by shutting down the
fuel pump and blowing the residual pressure through the
     rail's test Schrader into a rag, or by unhooking injector
connectors. 
     You need at least four pulses per cylinder. 

Interpretation

If a low reading jumps substantially after the addition of a few squirts
of oil, you've got a ring/bore problem. On the other hand,
if wet readings are only slightly higher, and this rise is roughly the
same for all cylinders, valves are implicated. 

The difficult part is judging how much variation among cylinders, or
between dry and wet readings, represents a serious
problem. Say you've got 80 psi in one, but about 120 in the others, and
adding oil brings them up only five psi or so. Is a valve
job necessary? 

That depends. Obviously, the low one is leaking somewhere, probably
through an exhaust valve, and erosion is going to make
it get worse pretty rapidly, so the proper thing to do is get in there
and attend to the seats and faces. On the other hand, if it's
not bad enough to cause a miss yet, and you've been frittering away your
money on luxuries like food and shelter so you can't
afford major work this month, or if the car is a nearly worthless heap,
maybe you can simply live with it. Just make sure you
understand that no amount of tuning or other external attention will
make that engine run any better or go any farther before that
cylinder loses it altogether. At least there's some good news -- the
rings are okay. 

Poor pressure in two adjacent cylinders should make you think about a
blown head gasket. Confirm this by looking for coolant
in the oil or on the spark plug, and by checking for evidence of
compression in the cooling system. Professionals hold the probe
of an exhaust analyzer over the radiator filler neck to see if they get
an HC reading, whereas a do-it-yourselfer might remove
the thermostat housing and water pump belt, then watch for bubbles. 

Pump it up

Gauging compression isn't the only time-honored procedure that's still
useful for assessing an engine's ability to squeeze air.
There's also the cylinder leakage test, which is done by pumping maybe
90 psi into the spark plug hole with the valves closed
(remove the rockers, or lock the crank at TDC of that cylinder's
compression stroke), and listening to where it escapes. Hissing
at the intake points to the inlet valve, and the same sound at the
tailpipe indicates the exhaust. 

There'll always be some noise at the oil filler hole because even the
best rings can't seal completely (gaps, you know). The trick
is to tell when it's excessive, which you can probably do by comparing
cylinders. And this test is great for fingering a leaky head
gasket -- remove the radiator cap and listen. 

An improvement on this theme is the use of a gauge that lets you know
what percentage of the available pressure is escaping. 

No conclusions yet

There's more to throw into your mental threshing machine before you make
your grand diagnostic pronouncement. Anything
that holds a valve open, such as a broken spring or a sticking guide,
will certainly cause a low compression reading. While these
can usually be fixed without removing the head, chances are the valve is
burned to a crisp (it can only cool when closed, after
all) and/or bent. You can try making the repair and see what happens,
but there's no guarantee of success. 

Low cylinders that don't produce more pressure after oil has been
introduced into them may not have valve sealing trouble. A
wiped cam lobe or a pulled rocker stud can result in a miss because the
cylinder isn't being properly packed. Check lift and
stud protrusion before you start unscrewing head bolts. 

Absolutely no compression in a cylinder does not necessarily mean a
valve is stuck open or burned away, either. There could
be a hole in the piston, and I remember one Triumph engine that was
still running, albeit roughly, even though the piston was
entirely gone along with the whole rod so that when I yanked the head
was looking down on what was left of the crank pin. 

In cases where the car suddenly refused to start and you got weird
compression readings, a snapped OHC drive belt or a
jumped timing chain is a more likely possibility than bad valves, which
deteriorate gradually. If the power-plant isn't
freewheeling (that is, the valves hit the pistons if they're out of
synch), however, you're going to have to remove the head
anyway for the replacement of some bent stems. 

Probabilities

As far as probabilities are concerned, the most likely culprits are
burned valves, a violated head/block seal, valve train or lift
troubles, failed rings, and damaged pistons, in that order. 

With everything except failure of the parts that actuate the valves, the
head will have to come off, and it makes sense to service
the valves and replace the stem seals even if the head gasket was the
problem. In cases where only a couple of valves were
leaking, it would be pretty silly to just fix them since the others are
probably on the ragged edge of survival. Do a whole valve
job. 

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:57:40 EDT
Subject: Re: FS - S3 109

In response to a couple of questions on the notice I posted yesterday about
the truck I have for sale.  It is Left Hand Drive.

Digital photos are available if interested.

Thanks for the bandwidth.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:37:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding

In a message dated 30/06/98 12:58:20 BST, you write:

<< five portraits of our illustrious majesty later, I had a perfect clutch.
 The manual bleed method seems to either take an inordinate amount of
 time or just not work in my case. I think an 'eazibleed' type tool that 
 pressurises the master cylinder should work OK. >>

If you find an easy bleed type kit tyhat has a top which actually fits a Land
Rover one, and which operates from a spare tyre with more than 10lbs pressure
- therefore not spraying fluid all over the garage - then please let me know.
Until then it's manual or.... did you honestly get someone to bleed your
clutch for a fiver?? Not worth getting under with the placky tube for that.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:38:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Plea

Sandy, don't flim-flam, just come right out with it. What is the point you're
trying to make? :-)>

wish I could be over there with you guys, it sounds like a really good event.

enjoy

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:35:54 -0900
Subject: camshaft chainwheel

Is there a way to tell which key way is more advanced or retarded on a 1965
petrol cam sprocket? The only mark on the wheel is a spiral line scribed
into the face of the wheel. It looks like a factory mark. Thanks, Jim
Duchanin

------------------------------

From: "LT S. ROCHNA" <rochnas@stennis.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:52:22 +0000
Subject: Perth and Hobart visit

Hi out there:

Are there any Roverheads in the Perth and/or Hobart area on
this list?  I hope to be heading to both places if things go
well and would like some advice as to where to spend a few
days chilling out after sitting in a ship doing circles in
the Persian Gulf for months on end.  Not to mention good
eyeball liberty on some Aussie Rovers.

E-mail me direct.  Thanks.  Steve

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:03:41 -0600
Subject: Steamboat Springs rally
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!

Just finished posting an account of by trip to the Steamboat Springs =
National rally and some pictures.

It's at http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Camyon/6339/

Hope you had less damaging week than I did!!

Art

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"-Missing front bumper-great approach =
angle, but bugger all for frontal protection
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDA42F.E3ECB140
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:04:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch Bleeding

Either you forgot or didn't read my message of last year re: bleeding
brake/clutch fluids.  (the archives will remember...)
So here's an abbreviated version.  Get a bicycle inner tube,a fat one.
Cut it in half opposite the valve.  Tie one of the loose ends in a tight
knot.
Stretch the other end over the filled brake or clutch reservoir and
clamp. (I used the carb hose clamp...BTW the tube will fit all
years/models of LR reservoirs.)
Gently pump up the tube using hand pump or small 12v compressor; you
don't want but 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.
Now go loosen the bleed screw until fluid flows (just be careful not to
drain the reservoir...repeat fill - pump - bleed if needed).  
When new clear fluid emerges without any air bubbles, close the bleed
screw.
You're done.  Have a beer....and maybe a Fuentes, too....

You're welcome...

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:39:56 EDT
Subject: Re:  RE: Clutch Bleeding

In a message dated 6/30/98 5:06:04 PM, you wrote:

> Get a bicycle inner tube,a fat one.
>Cut it in half opposite the valve.  
[snip]
>You're done.  Have a beer....and maybe a Fuentes, too....

Almost. Tie up the other end, then carefully replace the tube into the kid's
bike which it was *borrowed* from. Re-inflate and wait around to see how it
rides. Howl with laughter as they try to figger it out... there'll be this
funny bump/flat/bump area on the wheel...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 00:12:29 +0200
Subject: searching for a lr90

Hi!
Has anybody of you a def90 for sale?
pricing should be about 10000-15000.- DM
best would be a def90 with truck-MoT (3 seats)
and Tdi

Bernd Jonas
ex LR88 SIII 2,25 diesel ´72 "Best I ever had"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:49:10 +1000
Subject: axle housings

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:48:41 +0100
Subject: Chassis treatment and ENV axles
"Anyway, I have just acquired some elderly series parts, including 4 axles
casings, and 4 diffs. Two of the casings are SIII, but two are more bulky,
and would appear to be ENV axle casings, which I understand to be about as
common as rocking horse doo-doo. The top of the casing has extra bracing on
the top of the axle from the diff bit to the end bits - hence my
assumption."

These may just be 'army' spec standard axle housings - with like a rounded
section of channel fixed from the 'round bit where the diff centre bolts up
to the flanges where the axles/swivels bolt on  -  very common in Australia
now-a-days

Cheers,
Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 18:52:54 EDT
Subject: Re: bye bye

Philippe,

Rover on!

Steve 
Armada Off-Road LLC 

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:00:45 -0500
Subject: Test (please ignore!)
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I warned you.
There is nothing interesting here to read.
And please, I mean it, do not answer this !!!!!
:-)

------=_NextPart_000_0353_01BDA448.9F4A7720
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 19:07:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Lanham

Peter,

     Where is your site? 

Steve 

------------------------------

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:07:02 -0500
Subject: RV: Test 2 (please ignore!)

I warned you twice.
There is nothing interesting here to read either.
And please, I mean it, do not answer this one too !!!!!
:-)

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 19:36:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding

In a message dated 30/06/98 22:40:55 BST, you write:

<< >You're done.  Have a beer....and maybe a Fuentes, too....
 Almost. Tie up the other end, then carefully replace the tube into the kid's
 bike which it was *borrowed* from. Re-inflate and wait around to see how it
 rides. Howl with laughter as they try to figger it out... there'll be this
 funny bump/flat/bump area on the wheel... >>

now that's the best idea I've had all day....
 only one problem, he'd only bring it to me to fix - he reckons his granddad
can fix anything........ rats....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 19:36:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding

In a message dated 30/06/98 22:06:04 BST, you write:

 Either you forgot or didn't read my message of last year re: bleeding
 brake/clutch fluids.  (the archives will remember...)
 So here's an abbreviated version.  Get a bicycle inner tube,a fat one.
 C >>

John,
 wasn't on last year.
That's the second good idea I've heard today. I'm going to try both.
Can I put yours in LRO with appropriate name check?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:45:31 -0400
Subject: Water pump rebuild

Al.    I am sure that in the past I have mixed and matched the water pump
rebuild kits, the differences are there are 3 types of casting, each with a
different number of fixing holes ( 7, 8 and 9 ?  ) and when stuck I have
removed parts from one and instrallled them in the other
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "Peter (Kangaroo)Thomson." <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:36:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Not sure if file attachments work using the Major...

Your file attachment is like a true 101 Don't work.

----------
> From: Micky Cormack <Micky101@email.msn.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Not sure if file attachments work using the Major...
> Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 4:15 PM
> A little something from the excellent 101 Register magazine - Six Stud.
> Made me laugh anyway!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Micky
> 	[Attachment Removed, was 285 lines.]	(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: Fred Schwartz <fns@primenet.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:41:51 -0700
Subject: New Phone Numbers 

Here are some updated telephone numbers:

Mobile Phone-Usually in my pocket- 602-469-3986
Pager- 602-270-9490
Office-602-833-1800
Fax 602-833-7490
Email(best address) fns@primenet.com

------------------------------

From: SFmms@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 01:34:40 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 98-06-30 07:01:55 EDT, you write:

<< If I close the bleed nipple and
 pump a few times, there is pressure, but it disappears after a few
 seconds. >>

Adrian:

I had the same problem on my SIII 88 after I had a local garage replace the
slave cylinder, which was worn out. The mechanic ended up using a "power
bleeder" (piston-like device) at my suggestion, which goes on in places of the
cap on the master cylinder and forces fluid out using pressure with the bleed
screw slightly opened. The problem on the SIII master cylinder is the way the
lines are routed upwards out of the cylinder, allowing air to be trapped. Once
the bleeding was done in my case, I have had no problems. By the way the
device works for brakes too. 

Hope it helps,

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88, Red Rufy
'95 Disco, EFE

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 07:53:41 +0200
Subject: Re: Color question

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> Were series rovers ever *white*? I saw one this weekend, and it looked funny.
> They may have been going for the Alpine White of D/RR LRs, but  they ended up
> with Caddilac White, with original (faded) roof and wheels. Hmmm. Oh well, I'm
> about to send all the LR paint codes to the owner so he can have a look at
> what the car should look like.
> --pat.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Q: Why do the men in Scotland wear kilts?
> A: Because the sheep can hear a zipper a mile away.

Plenty of series vehicles were white - in fact most that I have seen.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Adrian Walden <a.walden@wave.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 98 19:58:41 +1200
Subject: >Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

Hi Everybody, 
I have followed with interest the discussion on chassis galvanising. I 
have a 1986 110 3.5 which I intend to strip and rebuild. In doing so I 
would hot dip galvanise the chassis and the bulkhead (amongst various 
other items) as the protection offered by this treatment is second to 
none. However, despite doing a bit of research on the subject, including 
searching the archives of this list, I remain in the dark about couiple 
of issues.

A local (Auckland, New Zealand) non franchise Land Rover specialist is of 
the opinion that the chassis are too britle after hot dip galvanising 
treatment. John Middleton (apparently an ex LR employee) writes in the 
May 1998 edition of LROI that the LR factory investigated the galvanising 
option but found that the heat caused up to two inches of chassis 
distortion making reassembly of the vehicle unworkable. The Galvanising 
manual (1980, John Eade and Associates, ZALAS, Australia) attributes 
distortion effects to design and does not make any hard and fast rules..
I am aware of various suppliers advertising hot dip galvanised chassis 
for the series landrovers and presumably these chassis are fabricated for 
galvanising based on old designs. I am also aware that the Australian 
Army used to galvanise the chassis of every one of its Land Rovers, 
including 110s.

Could anybody with experience galvanising the chassis or bulkhead of a 
110 landrover please share their experiences ?
Does anybody have a useful contact in the Australian Army ?

Cheers

Adrian Walden

1986 Land Rover 110 3.5
1964 Daimler 2.5
1986 Toyota Corrolla 1.3

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:56:52 +0100
Subject: clutch rebuilding

Hi all,

In the rebuilding process of "Rusty", I have now disassembled the 
clutch mechanism. The friction plate is badly worn, and should be 
replaced. My parts supplier tells me I should replace the entire 
group, not just the friction plate. Is there anyone out there who has 
experience with just replacing the friction plate? 
Is there a home mechanic way of testing the clutch pressure 
mechanism?
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:03:16 +0200
Subject: Re: >Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

Adrian Walden wrote:
> Hi Everybody,
> I have followed with interest the discussion on chassis galvanising. I
> have a 1986 110 3.5 which I intend to strip and rebuild. In doing so I
> would hot dip galvanise the chassis and the bulkhead (amongst various
> other items) as the protection offered by this treatment is second to
> none. However, despite doing a bit of research on the subject, including
> searching the archives of this list, I remain in the dark about couiple
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> 1964 Daimler 2.5
> 1986 Toyota Corrolla 1.3

Hi Adrian,

Well distortion, etc notwithstanding (in fact some may argue that
distrotion would make reassembly easier!) L-R in South Africa came out
of the factory for many years with fully galvanised chassis' - I think,
up until the early '90's when LRSA decided the galvanising was too
expensive for most vehicles which never even got off the pavement. I
have friends who have had their series chassis'hot dipped with not
complications, rebuild-wise or otherwise.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:07:39 +0200
Subject: Re: >Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

Adrian Walden wrote:
> Hi Everybody,
> I have followed with interest the discussion on chassis galvanising. I
> have a 1986 110 3.5 which I intend to strip and rebuild. In doing so I
> would hot dip galvanise the chassis and the bulkhead (amongst various
> other items) as the protection offered by this treatment is second to
> none. However, despite doing a bit of research on the subject, including
> searching the archives of this list, I remain in the dark about couiple
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> 1964 Daimler 2.5
> 1986 Toyota Corrolla 1.3

Oh, yeah, and we've just had a couple of series 3 firewalls (known, I
believe, in some far flung colonial outposts as bulkheads), also with no
ill effects. In fact galvanising the firewall enables you to weld up all
the little holes, tears, etc, the once galvanised it looks like new
(only better).
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 05:23:47 EDT
Subject: Re: >Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

In a message dated 01/07/98 08:57:51 BST, you write:

 Could anybody with experience galvanising the chassis or bulkhead of a 
 110 landrover please share their experiences ? >>

Yo Adrian,

I'm just writing up the story of fitting a galvanised chassis to my 110 for
LRO... I'm driving it around so I assume it isn't distorted - although you
might not tell from my driving (g).

I have heard of bulkheads warping because they are too thin, but have no
experince.

I understand that the Land Rover problem came from the speed of the dipping.
For commercial use dippers have to do it faster (?) or somesuch.

So how did Land Rover manage with the early ser 1 which were galved? Did it
slower 'cos they weren't in so much of a hurry.

Talk to a local galvanising firm - and ask what gurantees they give IMA.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:46:39 +0100
Subject: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Hi

'Tis me again, I think my messages are getting through!

I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' speed
should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl engine?
45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right? It's a bit low
methinks, but then I do tend to shoot about the motorways over here in my
*DELETED* (ha ha!) at slightly more than 45!

Any hints would be nice - it's just that locally I only need to do 30mph -
it annoys the boy racers who get stuck behind me - leaking oil/clouding
their vision! (only kidding!) - and that is fine, but when I need to get it
out on the motorway I get passed by Lorries!!!!!!!! (Not something I am used
to!)

Neil

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:55:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Well, I get 60mph no problem - 70mph under the right conditions in a 109"
with the 2.25l petrol engine.
You didn't say whether you had petrol or diesel...

With a heavy load, 60 is still no problem, but acceleration is, err,
lacking.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

metal_thrasher@email.msn.com on 07/01/98 10:46:39 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Hi
'Tis me again, I think my messages are getting through!
I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' speed
should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl engine?
45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right? It's a bit low
methinks, but then I do tend to shoot about the motorways over here in my
*DELETED* (ha ha!) at slightly more than 45!
Any hints would be nice - it's just that locally I only need to do 30mph -
it annoys the boy racers who get stuck behind me - leaking oil/clouding
their vision! (only kidding!) - and that is fine, but when I need to get it
out on the motorway I get passed by Lorries!!!!!!!! (Not something I am
used
to!)
Neil

------------------------------

From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:50:57 +0100
Subject: Wobbly steering

Hi

Have discovered why my steering was wobbly btw. Some git had nicked my
original wheels while Robin (74 Series III) was at the auction, and hadn't
tightened the wheel nuts up again........lucky I only threw one wheel I
guess!

Neil

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 11:55:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Speed (Or Rather 'What Speed?')

Neil Brownlee wrote:
> Hi
> 'Tis me again, I think my messages are getting through!
> I have a question about my 1974 88" Series III - what sort of 'top' speed
> should I be getting from (what I assume to be) a standard 2.25 4cyl engine?
> 45mph seems to be tops at the moment - is this right? It's a bit low
> methinks, but then I do tend to shoot about the motorways over here in my

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> to!)
> Neil

Hi Neil,

Well, my '72 '88 can manage about 115 - 120 km/h without going flat out.
Took a 1500 km round trip last week at about that speed (NOT when going
up hills) tops - average about 100 km/h over the whole trip. Got about
5.5 - 6 km/litre consumption.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 06:20:54 -0400
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding

If the springs are good and there's no significant wear of the pressure
plate itself, you can reuse the pressure plate - I have.

However, make very sure it's in good shape, because if it isn't, then you
have to do the whole miserable job over again.....

                         ajr

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 54 lines 2650 [forwarded 150 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1837 [content 1676  forwarded 72 (cut  78) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>