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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:07:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Party at Lanham Creek, Maryland

Party put on by LRNA at Lanham Creek, Maryland.>

I second that Mike, LRNA were gracious hosts Saturday and we 
thoroughly enjoyed the day. For me, the star of the day was the early 
Shorland, light cannon and all. Would certainly make someone think 
twice about about having a bout of road rage. I did wonder if the 
owner every took it into the center of DC! Another hit was the 
officers carawagon which had arrived from England the day before. Very 
nice

The following day also saw a large LR turnout at the Bowie British Car 
show. It was nice to see R.O.V.E.R.S and Blue Ridge flying the Land 
Rover & 50Year banners they received from Dave at LRNA the day before 
for having the best member turnout at Lanham. Way to Go!!!

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:31:17 EDT
Subject: FS - S3 109

For Sale - 1972 Series 3 109 three door.  43,000 km (26,000 miles).  Great
condition.  Ex-MOD still in camo paint. Full canvas tilt.  $8000.00 (USD)

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
(804) 530-5202
e-mail:  lodelane@aol.com

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:55:50 -0400
Subject: Stuck Steering Relay

Wow is it stuck!  I am trying to remove the steering relay
from my '71 IIA and am having no fun.  I've been trying to
force it upwards with a hydrolic jack but I'm not sure how
much I should limit the force to avoid damage.  Any ideas
out there?  Anybody ever take on out before?

Rick_Snyder@hp.com
'71 IIA

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:17:34 -0400
Subject: RE: LRNA Weekend Event at Lanham Creek, MD

Rich Biby wrote: The only "other" major complaint from people I heard 
a lot was the length of line to drive and to ride the with the Camel 
Drivers. I don't know if you should have had a time appointment type 
of thing going or what, but that was too much sun & waiting for most 
folks.

People are never bl**dy satisfied!
I personally did not have a problem waiting to drive the test track. 
The only problem was waiting for the Camel Trophy vehicle, it seemed 
all the male drivers wanted to travel with Daphne! I actually went 
around 3 times (one as a driver, twice as a passenger). I also hopped 
on the bus to and fro without any wait at all. I think Rich must have 
gone at prime time along with most everybody else.
Once again, thanks to all at LRNA for a great day.

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:29:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel pump rebuild question

Has anyone figured out a replacement for the oil seal in the bottom of the
pump?  Last time I rebuilt one, the seal was split and from what I could find
out, LR (and the aftermarket folks) stopped putting the oil seal in the kits
in the mid-70's.  Tried matching it with wheel and clutch cylinder boots at
NAPA, but couldn't get anything small enough that had the right sized hole for
the shaft.  Ended up gooping the split up with RTV.  So far, so good (touch
wood).

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:50:07 -0400
Subject: S.II and S.IIa - same water-pump rebuild kit?

Reason I ask is that I have a 1959 S.II dead in my driveway for want of one
of these.....

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:03:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: S.II and S.IIa - same water-pump rebuild kit?

On Mon, 29 Jun 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> Reason I ask is that I have a 1959 S.II dead in my driveway for want of one
> of these.....

According to the BP catalog they are.  That makes sense, the rebuild
kit is just the bearings and joint washers isn't it? 

David

------------------------------

From: russw@lycosmail.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:06:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Original Paint Colors and Parabolic Springs

 ---- you wrote: 

> My second question regards springs.  My old ones are shot.  Should I put on
> new LR 88" springs or non-original parabolics? 

I just returned from the Solihull Society Rally and had my first ride in a 
rover with Parabolic springs.  I was very impressed with the ride on the 
pavement and the off-road action.  The $ difference between parabolics and 
"regular" springs isn't a 
factor here in Colorado because shipping of "regular" springs will kill you and 
you can drive to Colorado Springs and buy your parabolics from Frank Jakos.  
Hope this helps.

Russ W. and the Pig

 

Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:05:04 -0400
Subject: Re: S.II and S.IIa - same water-pump rebuild kit?

Re: rebuild kits:

Thanks, David - much appreciated.

               aj"Just making sure....."r

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 98 10:29:01 EST
Subject: Re: Swivel Ball Problems

brett
first check to make sure all the bearing races and bushes are properly 
installed, i.e. in all the way, etc. Check the fit of the pins with the 
assmebly apart. compare the pins. are the pins new? if not compare them to the 
old ones, etc. same with the bushes. did you put the balls in rightside up?
I don't know, just guessing on these but it should all work. maybe you messed 
up the bushes and races driving them in with the old lump hammer :) or did you 
have them pressed in?

later
daveb

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 98 10:38:35 EST
Subject: Re: Drive shaft alignment?

>The bolts holding the shackles on the leaf springs are loose.  The PO 
>told me he had put 109 springs in the back, could that account for the 
>high lift?  Any recommendations on how to correct the sitiuation would 
>be greatly appreciated.
>Regards,
 ->-Robert

robert
the answer to all fo your questions is yes. the springs will sit a little lower 
after installing the body panels and driving the truck around. leave them the 
way they are and then drive around the block a few times to let them settle to 
their "normal" position, then torque first the shackle bolts, then the nuts. as 
an aside I would recommend fitting the regular 88 springs, as the 109 springs 
are  a bit stiffer and will cause you no end of problems off the road unless 
you are quite heavily laden or are quite heavy (1000lbs) yourself. You may need 
to load up the springs just to get the shocks on. I did. 
On another note, i actually remembered to pick up a fuse box for you at the 
bowie MD british car day. its a four fuse lucas fusebox that is designed to 
mount to a bulkhead. I paid $10 US for it. It is in VGC exceot for slight 
melting of the cover near one of the spade connectors, however I would say this 
is cosmetic only and it does not seem like it affects the sealing, fit, or 
function of the cover. I tried to find a better cover but they all had some 
evidence of this. Not surprising...
If you are interested send me some mail and we'll figure this out.

later
daveb

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:58:02 -0700
Subject: A tip for mixing from code. (was Limestone substitutes)

A tip when having paint mixed.

I marched happily down to the local Dupont supply shop with my Limestone
paint code # 38505 and plopped the code on the table.  I asked for this
code for a 1961 Land Rover.  There was a furious flapping of
micro-fiches and tapping of keyboards with no luck (except in lacquer,
which I though was a bit much for a Rover).  I asked them to check the
listings right up to 1974, the year of the great abandonment, with no
luck.  Out of desperation, I suggested that they look it up under Range
Rover, 1987-88.  Presto!  There was the code!  I had a sample tin mixed
up.  A perfect match for my 37 year old beast!

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:41:40 +0200
Subject: Clutch bleeding

I have just filled my clutch system with new DOT4 - the mastyer and
slave cylinders have been serviced properly, the pipes replaced.

I have followed the "1-open bleed nipple, 2-pedal down, 3-close bleed
nipple, 4-pedal up cycle for several minutes (at least 10?) - I have
refilled the master cylinder five times, and the jam jar at the end of
the pipe is half full. Now and again the pipe makes bubbly noises.

But there is no pressure on the pedal. If I close the bleed nipple and
pump a few times, there is pressure, but it disappears after a few
seconds.

No pipes are leaking fluid out, so I guess that none are letting air in.

But no pressure at the pedal, and no clutch action - any ideas? Have I
missed something?

Advice welcome!

 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 98 09:09:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel pump rebuild question

>Has anyone figured out a replacement for the oil seal in the bottom of the
>pump?

Ben Smith used a brake cylinder boot once when his died in the field.  He 
says it works.  He has an 88 so I assume it was from an 88 wheel 
cylinder.  It was a number of years ago.  I think it is still in Dora.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

------------------------------

From: Michael Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:18:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding

Adrian,

You may have step 1 and 2 mixed up.

I have my 9 year old helper push the pedal
then open the bleed valve let the air and bubbles out
then close it before I tell her to let up on the pedal.

Mike Johnson
73 88 Chester
*** This space available ***
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

>I have just filled my clutch system with new DOT4 - the mastyer and
>slave cylinders have been serviced properly, the pipes replaced.
>I have followed the "1-open bleed nipple, 2-pedal down, 3-close bleed
>nipple, 4-pedal up cycle for several minutes (at least 10?) - I have
>refilled the master cylinder five times, and the jam jar at the end of
>the pipe is half full. Now and again the pipe makes bubbly noises.
>But there is no pressure on the pedal. If I close the bleed nipple and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
>e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
>Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:36:18 -0700
Subject: Re: considering a disco...  Thoughts?

> OK, my wife has agreed to separate with her F*rd Exploder; she's
interested in a Discovery (used, 94/95-ish?).  I like my Wrangler, and
cheerfully turn wrenches when necessary.... but don't want to do so
more than necessary.  I remain concerned about parts availability in
certain areas of the
US; anybody have specific wisdom on this?  Based on what I've read, it
sounds like the basic structure of the Discovery is sound; only minor
complaints on build quality and difficulties with the 'frosting' that
LRNA deems necessary to sell iron in the colonies...

There has been a great deal of discussion about the Discovery on the
newsgroup rec.autos.4x4 during the past couple of years.  A fair number of
US buyers have been extremely disappointed in their vehicles for a number
of reasons.  You mentioned you are interested in the '94-'95 range.  These
were probably the worst years for Discoveries.  Defects reported include
manual transmission failures before 30K miles, de-laminating dashboards,
rust on steel parts, corrosion on aluminum parts, countless electrical
faults, failed door hinges, and on and on.

The cause of these problems was two-fold.  The booming demand for
Discoveries worldwide forced the factory to ramp up production before they
were ready.  As a result, build quality suffered and quality control was
often poor or non-existant.

The other half of the problem was with the suppliers.  As I'm sure you
know, Land Rover doesn't actually make anything.  The factory at Solihull
is an assembly plant.  Virtually every part comes from a supplier, most of
whom are in the greater Birmingham area.  Even Land Rover frames are no
longer made by Land Rover.  I was given a factory tour in 1992, and Land
Rover had just subcontracted out their frame construction which marked the
end of all on-site manufacturing processes.  Land Rover does manufacture
their engines, but from parts that are rough-cast or machined by suppliers.
So when Discovery orders took off, many of the suppliers were unable to
cope with the demand.  Like the factory itself, the suppliers struggled
with quality and inspection problems.  The manual transmission used in the
earlier Discoveries suffered some pretty severe quality problems which can
result in, among other things, the drive splines wearing out in less than
30K miles.  Many, many manual transmissions were replaced under warranty in
'93-'95, not just in the US but around the world in Discoveries and
Defenders.  The good news is that the new transmissions seem to be fine.

The ZF automatic used in the Range Rover and Discovery, on the other hand,
is an outstanding piece of equipment.  Made by the gear division of the
Zeppelin Company (the same folks who built the airships in the 1920s and
30s), the transmission used by Land Rover is a derivative of the
transmission used by Mercedes and BMW.  Properly looked after, it will
remain trouble-free for years.

So be very, very careful if you're shopping for a US-spec Discovery in the
'94-'95 range.  Make sure the vehicle has all the documentation of any
warranty work that was done, including manual transmission replacement.

Regarding parts, dealer parts and labor prices are fairly staggering.
Parts markups are at least 100 percent (true of all dealers, not just Land
Rover), and labor charges often exceed $90 an hour.  This is the price you
pay for the Land Rover's "luxury" image in the US (the rest of the world
knows better.)  Very few independent mechanics are familiar with Land
Rovers, so unless you happen to live somewhere where there is a qualified
independent, your maintenance choices will be your dealer or yourself.  As
the V-8 engine requires (and they're not kidding) premium fuel, ownership
of a new Land Rover (1987 on) in the US can be a somewhat expensive
undertaking, especially if you are going to be relying on a dealer for
service.

The good news is that Land Rover parts and accessories for all models are
readily available from several excellent suppliers in North America, Rovers
North and Atlantic British being two of the best.  Parts prices, while not
cheap, are significantly lower than the dealers in most cases.  Land
Rover's factory service manuals are among the best in the world.  I have a
set of Series II/IIa manuals, a Series III manual, and a Range Rover
manual.  I was pleased to see that the manual I purchased with my 1991
Range Rover was just as clear and concise as the manual I purchased with my
new Series III back in 1973.  So if you are handy with tools and have
access to a lift, you can do a lot of maintenance and repair yourself.  For
example, when a front caliper on my Range Rover started seaping fluid at a
piston seal at about 80K miles, the dealer wanted $800 to $1,000 to replace
both front calipers.  At the suggestion of a good friend who owns an
independent BMW shop, I pulled the front calipers myself, gave them to my
friend who sent them to the same rebuild shop the Land Rover, BMW, and
Mercedes dealers us.  I had them back in two days.  Total cost to me was
$124 plus a few hours of my time.  So there are ways to keep Land Rover
ownership costs under control, but you have to be willing to work at it.

While I do not own a Discovery, I have a fair amount of driving time in
them as we have been renting them since 1992 on every visit we make to the
UK.  Of course, all these vehicles have been diesels which offer many
advantages over the V-8.  I have found the Discovery to be a delightful
vehicle to drive, with very precise steering and handling.  Visibility is
excellent, and the interior has a lot of clever and useful features.  The
only negative comment I have is the lack of cargo space, but this has been
remedied.  As I'm sure you know, there is a new model of the Discovery
about to be released.  It is longer than the current model to add space in
the cargo compartment.  However, I imagine the price will be pretty steep.
Hope all this helps.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:36:03 -0700
Subject: Brake Fade on a '69 SWB

Friend Sussex, no a list member, but the guy who supplied my 'project'
vehicle is having problems with the brakes on his 1969 Series IIA, as
pictured on my web page.

This vehicle has the dual circuit, power assisted brake system.  

When he starts off in the morning with a cold vehicle, he has a good
solid brake pedal with good stopping power.  With lots of stop and go
driving, the pedal eventually falls to about half of its 'cold' height,
with a corresponding loss of braking power.  If he pushes hard enough on
the pedal, the rear wheels will lock up.  It feels to him like the front
brakes are doing nothing.  All components are quite new, including the
drums.  The oldest bits would be the flex hoses, but they *appear* to be
in good shape

How are the dual circuits split for a IIA?  Front / rear, or X wise?
Might there be moisture in one (or both) circuits that is boiling when
things heat up and causing fade?  The pedal never hits the floor but
there is a definite loss of pressure.

Maybe it's time for a complete fluid change?  

Any suggestions welcome.

Paul in Victoria.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:46:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake Fade on a '69 SWB

As well as water contamination, and dodgy hoses,   howabout a vacuum leak?

In the later stages of a vacuum problem in my Zenith,  you could feel the
effect in the brakes!
Could be a hundred and one things, but perhaps something is expanding with
head, and letting a small amount of air in.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Paul_Quin@pml.com on 06/29/98 05:36:03 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Brake Fade on a '69 SWB

Friend Sussex, no a list member, but the guy who supplied my 'project'
vehicle is having problems with the brakes on his 1969 Series IIA, as
pictured on my web page.
This vehicle has the dual circuit, power assisted brake system.
When he starts off in the morning with a cold vehicle, he has a good
solid brake pedal with good stopping power.  With lots of stop and go
driving, the pedal eventually falls to about half of its 'cold' height,
with a corresponding loss of braking power.  If he pushes hard enough on
the pedal, the rear wheels will lock up.  It feels to him like the front
brakes are doing nothing.  All components are quite new, including the
drums.  The oldest bits would be the flex hoses, but they *appear* to be
in good shape
How are the dual circuits split for a IIA?  Front / rear, or X wise?
Might there be moisture in one (or both) circuits that is boiling when
things heat up and causing fade?  The pedal never hits the floor but
there is a definite loss of pressure.
Maybe it's time for a complete fluid change?
Any suggestions welcome.
Paul in Victoria.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@BC.Sympatico.CA>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:54:09 -0700
Subject: LaSalle Trim

Has anyone fitted LaSalle trim to their Series vehicle?  If so, I would
be interested in impressions.  Please email me backchannel as I cannot
get onto the regular digest that often.

Regards
Clinton Coates

Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:58:03 +0100
Subject: Re: Brake Fade on a '69 SWB

Or, it *might just* be a badly adjusted brake pedal?

I had a really strange "hour into a journey" problem with my clutch pedal.
This turned out to
be a badly adjusted pedal. The UK listserver did a very good job of
diagnosing my strange symptoms!
(the problem appeared after 1hr, then disappeared within 5 mins or so,
after stopping!)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:26:14 -0500
Subject: Re: 109 springs on rear of 88, why??????

Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote:

>         I cannot see how the 88 could ever carry enough to justify heavier
> springs.  I have put as much as 800 pounds of fertilizer over or aft of the
> rear axle and noticed little compression of the springs.  The ride is
> greatly improved as the springs will actually deflect on bumps rather than
> act as catapults as they do when unloaded.  Putting stiffer springs would
> mean even less deflection on bumps and an extremely harsh ride.  

	I think that it depends upon what you are using your 88" for.  The
previous owner of my 88" fitted Suburban springs to my 88".  A very harsh
ride.  When thouse leaf springs broke, I had the hack job of spring mounts
cut off and proper spring purchases welded back on.  I fitted standard 88"
springs.  Within 1 or 2 years the springs had flattened and were riding on the 
bumpstops without any load.  And even when new, bottoming out when off-road 
was common.    These were genuine springs.   Now I typically
load the 88 down with lots of gear for heavy off-roading.  And there were a
few cross country runs with way too much gear in there. Next I tried using a
used set of rear 109" -ton springs with one leaf removed.   This was a
fairly harsh ride with little axle articulation.   After about a year of
that I bought a set of 109" Station Wagon rear springs.  I've had these on
for about 3 years with no problems.  It's a little springy in the rear
when unladen.  Bot most of the time I'm driving 500+ miles with a full
laden Rover to get to the trailhead.

Ben 
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 15:20:32 -0400
Subject: Paint question

"Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> wrote:

>	What primer would I use on galvanising? 

Rustoleum makes a product called "GalvaGrip"...a dull gray primer.  Other
options are of 'etching' primers like old fashioned (and illegal/hard to
find) zinc chromate.  The hard, invisible zinc oxide skin is what makes
painting galvanizing so difficult.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:36:09 +0100
Subject: Re: 109 springs on rear of 88, why??????

> The real problem with the rover is not stiff enough springs but limited
>suspension travel.  If memory serves me right, its less than 5 inches up
>front where most of the weight is concentrated.  Extended shackles or the
>mythical parabolics would seem to be a better choice than increased spring
>stiffness.

Although I've never driven or been in a series motor with parabolic springs,
my little 101 has them, as do all 101s. Admittedly, the 101 is designed for
a 1ton payload, and it is better off-road with some weight in the back
(several people or a load of fire-wood generally does the trick), the
parabolic springs are surprisingly good on the road. I'm not saying coil
sprung ride quality

Whether or not they are too much for an 88 is another matter, but on a 101
they are very good.

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:48:41 +0100
Subject: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

Cheers for the chassis treatment info - much appreciated. Am thinking that
saving my pennies (loads of overtime coming up!) and shelling out on
galvanising might be a good long term move, then cover it with something
hard. But not Hammerite. Seems daft to spoil the ship for a hapenneth of
tar. Or something like that...

Anyway, I have just acquired some elderly series parts, including 4 axles
casings, and 4 diffs. Two of the casings are SIII, but two are more bulky,
and would appear to be ENV axle casings, which I understand to be about as
common as rocking horse doo-doo. The top of the casing has extra bracing on
the top of the axle from the diff bit to the end bits - hence my assumption.

The ENV axles were used on the IIBs (and maybe some other Landys) because
the standard axles were not strong enough. The casings would seem to be
stronger, but did they contain standard diffs, and if not, what's the
difference between the diffs? The four I have seem to be the same...

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:17:31 -0400
Subject: Brake shoe lining materials and cetane ratings

Hello;
1. Have heard of people getting their brake shoes relined with a variety
of materials from something with kevlar to carbon metallic linings.

What is the difference between all these types of linings and what is on
the stock shoes?

2. Most gas stations in NY and NJ where I fuel up have 40 cetane diesel,
Hess carries Super Detergency, New and Improoved, better than before 42
cetane diesel.
With all the discussion on octane ratings and timing settings, how does
2 cetane affect a diesel engine?

Can I gain speed in a headwind by tacking across 4 lanes of traffic?

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:05:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Fade on a '69 SWB

In a message dated 29/06/98 17:41:55 BST, you write:

<< something is expanding with
 head, >>
fnar fnar

anon

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:15:40 +0100
Subject: Not sure if file attachments work using the Major...

A little something from the excellent 101 Register magazine - Six Stud.

Made me laugh anyway!

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

X-deleted-begin 666 Drinker.doc

	[Attachment Drinker.doc removed, was 285 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:25:15 +0100
Subject: Re: Not sure if file attachments work using the Major...

>A little something from the excellent 101 Register magazine - Six Stud.
>Made me laugh anyway!
>Cheers,
>Micky
> [Attachment Removed, was 285 lines.] (101 in bits)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Micky
> [Attachment Removed, was 285 lines.] (101 in bits)

Nope, guess they don't!

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:45:51 EDT
Subject: Re:  LaSalle Trim

>Has anyone fitted LaSalle trim to their Series vehicle?  If so, >I would
>be interested in impressions.  
WHAT walnut dashboards were not enough ??!!
Now we want chrome trim. What next ... FINS ?
 Now I don't have any LaSalle stuff but I do have some trim that fell of my
1970 Caddy convertable you could have cheep.
Rgds Quintin

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:05:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 101 springs

Micky writes

 Although I've never driven or been in a series motor with parabolic springs,
 my little 101 has them, as do all 101s.

 Whether or not they are too much for an 88 is another matter, but on a 101
 they are very good.
 
 Micky
 (101 in bits)

Micky,

   This isn't quite correct. The 101FC is fitted with TAPERED leaf springs,
 not PARABOLIC. The 101 was the first LR product to experiment with them. There
 are two leaves, that taper in thickness from about 3/8" at the axle case to
 approx 1/4" at the eyelet/pivot. The term "Parabolic" refers to the way that 
the 
 leaves are bent in different arcs, such that they only touch at the axle case
 and eyelet. This eliminates the friction of the leaves rubbing on each other
 giving a more compliant ride for a given spring rate than normal elliptic 
springs.
 The 101 has semi-elliptic springs, but with a tapered thickness instead of a 
 constant thickness. THis allowed them to get the same load carrying ability as
 a thick stack of "normal" springs, while something like 35 lbs per spring. The 
101's
 primary spec called for a stripped down weight of 3500 lbs for airlift 
operations.
 With the wheels,sides,top,windscreen all removed and the fuel tank empty, it's
 supposed to weigh 3499.5 lbs. Seriously. The tapered leaf springs were just 
part
 of the weight loss campaign. Even when assembled, it weighs less than a 
Rangie, and
 can turn tighter than an 88" due to the close spacing of the front leaves. If 
you
 take off the ENORMOUS anti-sway bar and change the shocks to ANYTHING other 
than
 stock, it rides nicely and does have reasonable axle articulation. With the 
stock
 suspension, unless you carry a ton (literally) of ballast, it rides like it 
has no
 suspension, and the articulation is really 'orrible.
   Check Paul's site for some great pics of PARABOLIC leaf springs, you'll see 
right
 away what I'm refering to.
   http://www.ticonsole.nl/
 Love to see some pics of your project. Did you already get the latest Six Stud?

Cheers 
Mike
  

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:57:53 +0200
Subject: Shining up the galvanised parts

My 88" chassis and engine is now finished - now for the tub, doors,
sides, windscreens and roof.

My galvanised profiles on tyhe tub and doors, and the windscreen frame
are in fine condition - no rust. The problem is that the galv. finish is
very dull - original (1979) but dull. Is there any way I can "shine"
this up a bit - clean it with something toxic, polish it or otherwise. I
don't want to regalvanise just to make it shiny, but a tad brighter will
be better.

Any idea or words of wis. out there?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:37:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Shining up the galvanised parts

 
Adrian asks,
 
  Is there any way I can "shine"
 this up a bit - clean it with something toxic, polish it or otherwise. I
 don't want to regalvanise just to make it shiny, but a tad brighter will
 be better.
 Any idea or words of wis. out there?
 Adrian Redmond

Adrian,

   PPg Ditzler makes a nifty product called appropriately, "Metal Cleaner"
 Comes in 1 liter and 1 gal bottles. Purple liquid, kinda looks like Windex,
 it's a mild phosphoric acid solution. Dilute it with water per instructions,
 then get some rubber gloves and some Scotch-Brite pads. Dunk the Scotch-brite
 pads in the cleaner solution and then scrub your galvy trim, shine/brightens
 it up nicely. Make sure you DON'T get the product called "Galvanized Metal 
 Conditioner" This is a different product, which gives a phosphate conversion
 coating (DARK GREY) to galvy so that primers and paints will stick to it.

Cheers 
Mike 

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:42:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Chassis treatment and ENV axles

In a message dated 29/06/98 20:59:00 BST, you write:

 Cheers for the chassis treatment info - much appreciated. Am thinking that
 saving my pennies (loads of overtime coming up!) and shelling out on
 galvanising might be a good long term move, then cover it with something
 hard. But not Hammerite. Seems daft to spoil the ship for a hapenneth of
 tar. Or something like that...
  >>
why cover the galvanising up?
OK so mines only a few months old but it's weathering to a nice 'gone off
silver' and it's got a 15 year guarantee - unpainted.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:33:31 -0300
Subject: Re: LaSalle Trim

Unlike some large gentlemen from the Eastern side of the US of A there
are those among us that realise that there is a LaSalle that is not a
Caddy. The La Salle in question is a purveyor of interior trim for Land
Rover vehicles and not a scrap of chrome to be found.
  However Muddy has to make do with some rather tatty bit of carpet and
a good coat of the outdoors in side.
     John and Muddy

QROVER80@aol.com wrote:
> >Has anyone fitted LaSalle trim to their Series vehicle?  If so, >I would
> >be interested in impressions.
> WHAT walnut dashboards were not enough ??!!
> Now we want chrome trim. What next ... FINS ?
>  Now I don't have any LaSalle stuff but I do have some trim that fell of my
> 1970 Caddy convertable you could have cheep.
> Rgds Quintin

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:46:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> I have just filled my clutch system with new DOT4 - the mastyer and
> slave cylinders have been serviced properly, the pipes replaced.
> I have followed the "1-open bleed nipple, 2-pedal down, 3-close bleed
> nipple, 4-pedal up cycle for several minutes (at least 10?) - I have
> refilled the master cylinder five times, and the jam jar at the end of
> the pipe is half full. Now and again the pipe makes bubbly noises.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

If you Didn't use Castrol brake fluid but some other brand of DOT 4 then
you have probably ruined the new seals you just put in. There seems to
be some confusion about DOT 4, NOT all types are safe for Land Rover
use. The symptoms you describe are typical of a bad master cylinder.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:01:46 -0300
Subject: Headwind ( was Brake lining material)

You can get considerable assistance in a headwind by tacking across 4
lanes of traffic but the effect tends to be intermittant as each vehicle
strikes the rear of your Land Rover. A better solution is to remain in
the fast lane when there is a good supply of heavy trucks around. These
usually have plenty of power to assist your rate of speed.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:32:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Ignition timing

Thanks to all who had responded to my earlier post on timing and
Octane rating. I have another question.

Does ignition timing advance at higher engine speeds? I have set my
ignition advance at a point where normal driving duties at speeds up
to 70km/h produces no knocking. However, at speeds above 110km/h, I
start to hear sounds that seem very similar to knocking.

I am using 92 octane leaded petrol.  Is it necessary to retard
ignition or is it OK to run it like it is. Many people tell me that
slight knocking is OK, even when it happens at low speeds when the 
engine is under load.

Someone warned me however, that this knocking could be the sound of
weak valve springs and the consequence of driving around with that
left unchecked could prove costly.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:07:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding

Right on John.........The DOT standards are " performance" standards
applicable to all types of fluids.You have a choice Castrol or Girling

john cranfield wrote:

> Adrian Redmond wrote:
> > I have just filled my clutch system with new DOT4 - the mastyer and
> > slave cylinders have been serviced properly, the pipes replaced.
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 36 lines)]
> If you Didn't use Castrol brake fluid but some other brand of DOT 4 then
> you have probably ruined the new seals you just put in. There seems to
> be some confusion about DOT 4, NOT all types are safe for Land Rover
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> use. The symptoms you describe are typical of a bad master cylinder.
>      John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:10:36 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: LaSalle Trim

As John says 

  However Muddy has to make do with some rather tatty bit of carpet and
a good coat of the outdoors in side.
     John and Muddy

I agree. I tend to find that as interior trim the outdoors comes in all the
different colors one might desire. From Canadian peat bog black to Virginia
red. 
Kind of hard to sit on tho :-)
Rgds Quintin

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:27:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Ignition timing

Check the advance weights in your distributor. The vacuum advance is there
to advance the spark under high vacuum. The bob weights and the springs are
there to advance the spark under speed. Note the difference between the
springs and the "loops" that fit over the posts. The first spring with the
small loops comes into play first. As the weights swing out the "slack" in
the second spring loop (which is longer) is taken up and comes into play. By
this method an advance "curve" is created rather than a linear progression
of the spark advance. Why do we have to advance the spark? Because despite
all the things going on and changing in the engine ,one thing remains
constant............the "rate" of burning of the air/fuel mixture, in other
words, we have to set fire to it sooner.

Lawrence Lee wrote:

> Thanks to all who had responded to my earlier post on timing and
> Octane rating. I have another question.
> Does ignition timing advance at higher engine speeds? I have set my
> ignition advance at a point where normal driving duties at speeds up
> to 70km/h produces no knocking. However, at speeds above 110km/h, I
> start to hear sounds that seem very similar to knocking.
> I am using 92 octane leaded petrol.  Is it necessary to retard
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
> A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 01:01:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ignition timing

---"d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com> wrote:
 
>> Check the advance weights in your distributor. The vacuum advance
is there to advance the spark under high vacuum. The bob weights and
the springs are there to advance the spark under speed. 
all the things going on and changing in the engine ,one thing remains
constant............the "rate" of burning of the air/fuel mixture, in
other
words, we have to set fire to it sooner.<<

In other words, At higher engine speeds U need a correspondingly
advanced ignition? That was what I thought. So how come I get knocking
only at higher speeds? Could it be then that my ignition timing is set
too far advanced? The strange thing is that the engine does not knock
at low speeds, even when U floor the accelerator suddenly, but only at
high speeds on the road. Revving the engine up to high RPM without
load does not produce any knocking!

I am fast running out of options.

Cheers,

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

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