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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:11:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

What's that you say about Hammerite Frank? I have just painted my
chassis and most steel parts with Hammerite. Most parts were stripped to
clean metal first. The instructions say that hammerite should be used on
raw metal, without primer or rust preventer - <worriedmode> what do you
mean about hammerite not being happy with clean metal? </worriedmode>

Previously I have been a firm advocate of red rust paint (3 coats)
followed by black enamel (2 coats) - it was the constant praises which
hammerite receives on this list which persuaded me to try it - have I
made a boo-boo?

Please confirm that this was a typo <hopefulmode>

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:00:04 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: 110 axels on a 109?

In a message dated 6/26/98 1:52:16 AM, you wrote:

>The axles of the 110 are designed to be used in full time 4x4, so i
>wonder if they are strong enough to be used on 4x2 (for the rear axle at
>least) ??

I'd take one 110 rear axle over two 88 axles any day; not that I'm biased or
anything...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:13:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

Re: Hammerite:

On the chassis of my daughter's 88 I applied Hammerite over Rusted metal,
clean metal and galvanized metal. Except for a large patch where I didn't
etch the galvanizing right, the rest has held on nicely through a New
England Winter with no problems...

Seems to me like it should work OK.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:14:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Re: 110 axels on a 109?

>I'd take one 110 rear axle over two 88 axles any day; not that I'm biased
or
>anything...
>--pat.

Yes, but wouldn't 2 88 axles be too wide...?

Oh, never mind.....8*)

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 8:23:56 -0400
Subject: Peter's Solex Fix 

One thing you could try is to chuck the spindle in a drill (firmly 
clamped to your bench), and using a file, dig a groove that the o-ring 
can seat into. Whucha got to lose?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:30:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Solex Air Leaks

Paul Quinn asks about Solex air leaks about the throttle spindle shaft.

I have not done this yet, but plan to fit brass bushings into the carb
body to fit the shaft's worn diameter.  (removed the old Solex and it
sits on the bench awaiting this repair while an old Rochester has taken
on the air/fuel mixing duties in the LR)
This is an easy job for a clockmaker.  Visit your local clock shop and
inquire about re-bushing an old clock.  Then ask if he would consider
doing same to your carb.  If not, ask if he will sell you the necessary
bushings for a do-it-yourself job.  
Drill proper size hole; press in bushing; refit; done, at least for
awhile!

John Tackley
Richmond, VA
'74 SIII 88

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:28:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Peter's Solex Fix

Bill responded:
>One thing you could try is to chuck the spindle in a drill (firmly
>clamped to your bench), and using a file, dig a groove that the o-ring
>can seat into. Whucha got to lose?

PLEASE - if you're going to do this at least use a rounded-edge file....ow.
A good set of needle files will likely have something of the proper
contours, as well as a dead-smooth file to use for cleanup afterwards.

A better way might be to bribe a local machinist with a six-pack of beer to
cut you two grooves - take about 5 minutes, it would. I'd be afraid a file
might not leave a smooth enough finish to avoid hacking up the O-ring as
the shaft moves.

Suggestions like this make my micrometer twitch.....8*)

                    aj"But I've done them myself..."r

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 08:43:29 EST
Subject: Re[3]: 110 axels on a 109?

>The axles of the 110 are designed to be used in full time 4x4, so i 
>wonder if they are strong enough to be used on 4x2 (for the rear axle 
>at least) ??

110's have salisbury rears.

daveb

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 08:48:30 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

Re: Hammerite:

>On the chassis of my daughter's 88 I applied Hammerite over Rusted metal, 
>clean metal and galvanized metal. Except for a large patch where I didn't 
>etch the galvanizing right, the rest has held on nicely through a New 
>England Winter with no problems...

a new england winter in the driveway? not on the road already is it?

daveb

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 13:55:04 BST
Subject: RE:110 axle on 109"

Folks,

There is no reason why this can't be done apart from cost!
The axles will need new leaf spring mounts welded on and the steering will need 
adapting because the 110 track rod is positioned opposite to the 109, behind 
the diff instead of in front. I seriously investigated this conversion on my 
88" but in the 
end bought a coil sprung chassis instead.

The cost is considerable if you can't weld to a high standard yourself. Bearing 
in mind that all of the cornering forces and off-road stresses are placed 
through the spring mounts. You also need to buy the axles (in good condition 
they will add up 
to £500 at least in the UK)

The wider track is not a problem, standard wheel/tyres can still be used but 
you may need 110 style arches to remain within the law - depending on your 
country. The advantages are great - wider track, fit wider tyres/aftermarket 
wheels, disk brakes 
and better turning circle. BUT you may need to buy 4.7 ring and pinion sets for 
both diffs because unless your running a very good condition 2.25 petrol or a 
V8 you will not pull a 109 with 3.54 diffs.

Total cost for the conversion could be £1000, for double that you can have a 
brand new galvanized rolling chassis with axles, springs, shocks and all brake 
lines!

Ian Otty
SWB hybrid

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:59:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

>a new england winter in the driveway? not on the road already is it?
>daveb

A New England Winter in the driveway, underneath the salty snow mound from
the snowblower.

A more corrosive environment I can't picture - considering I've seen what
it does to the inside of my Ariens....

               ajr

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:28:53 -0400
Subject: Breathers

Christopher J. Clanton <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com> wrote:

>Just got my 1969 88" SW last January, and I have to admit
>that I'm hooked.  Knock on some wood for me, but its been
>running like a champ and I'm using it as a daily driver.

Uh-oh.  Now you're done it.  Never boast about your Rover when it is within
earshot.  They are perverse beings that will find a way to make you humble. 

>A question on transmission/transfer case breather.   My
>transmission has been leaking/spraying 90wt for the last
>couple of weeks.... What does a breather do?  How will it be fitted to
>both the transfer case and transmission? 

I fitted an axle case breather to the top cover plate for the transfer box.
 You can take the plate into the shop where you can brase on a nut or small
piece of metal to thicken up the plate.  You don't want this puppy goin'
astray. The cover is too thin to accept more than one thread for the
breather.  1/4" NPT tap, I believe.

Both gearbox and transfer case have a lot of air in 'em, and when this gets
hot and expands, the oil has to go somewhere.  All over your rear window,
for instance.  I've found that there is usually enough openings around the
selector shafts and whatnot that the gearbox doesn't need a breather.  Then
again, the rear oil seal on the t-box could be buggered as well....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:28:55 -0400
Subject: Timing is everything

Lawrence Lee wrote:

>My personal experience with setting it like that is that the engine
>feels torquey at first, but flattens out rapidly. Resulting in the
>rover not able to hit a high top speed as compared to setting the
>ignition slightly lower.

This may be a case of the vacuum advance (or retard) on the distributor not
working properly.  If the timing is set properly at idle (with the vacuum
hose disconnected) and it doesn't seem to reach top end power, the
mechanism may be frozen.  Remove the distributor cap and then suck on the
vacuum hose.  If you don't see the centrifugal weights move, it's broken.
Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:28:51 -0400
Subject: Grease vs. oil

While this may be the depths of summer and everyone is considering thicker
oil, grease mixtures and whatnot in various reservoirs, keep in mind the
flip side.  Winter.  I've had the 88 practically immobilized when
*everything* solidified....crankcase, battery and of course all the 90 wt
which turned to Jello. (That was the night I learned to park in neutral. Of
course, this was  minus 35 F.)  While I now have a block heater, a battery
heater and a charger, it still takes quite a while for everything else to
loosen up.

Oil leaks are no big deal.  It's when they *stop* that you have to worry....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:57:05 EDT
Subject: Steering box adjustment

The power steering box has a sector adjustmnet screw and lock washer on top,
just like most manual steering boxes. Some play can be taken up here. If there
is no, or little play elsewhere, and you think youve adjusted the box as much
as possible (dont over adjust it or you will loose all self centering), and
there is still too play then the sector shaft may be worn out. :>( There was a
good article in LRO a few years ago on rebuilding. Buy your parts direct from
the UK and save a bundle if you do it. Cheers, Andy Blackley 

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:57:03 EDT
Subject: POR15

POR15, or its equivalent from Eastwood etc., appears to be a very good
product. I used it on a Series IIA several years ago, and more recently on a
69 MGB. Two things I've noticed: if applied over oily or slick surfaces it
will peel off. It likes rough, even rusty surfaces to key onto. Second, it
flows like water and will ruin whatever you are wearing, period. If you get it
on your skin you have about 5 minutes or less to get it off, using paint
thinner. Even then it will leave a "shadow" because it works down into the
pores and rills of your skin. I was wearing old clothes, a hat, goggles (a
MUST do not get this in your eyes!), rubber gloves etc. and still got very
messy. I was using a paint brush however and was painting laying on my back
under the truck. The stuff does not cling to the brush very well like
convential paint, and it was running down my hands and wrist. A spray
apparatus (disposable) would have been neater. Anyway, this stuff ate throught
the rubber gloves and my hands were black. Drops fell on my exposed face. I
got most of it off except for a big spot on the back of my ear (comments at
work: hey theres a big spot of grease on your ear...yeah, thanks...). They
also sell a thicker version suitable as a filler. I am going to use this on
the tailgate of my RR. POR15 is sensitive to UV, and must also be topcoated
with paint or undercoat. They now have a web site and you can order directly
from that. Cheers, Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 09:07:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

>What's that you say about Hammerite Frank? I have just painted my
>chassis and most steel parts with Hammerite. Most parts were stripped to
>clean metal first. The instructions say that Hammerite should be used on
'>raw metal, without primer or rust preventer - <worriedmode> what do you
'>mean about Hammerite not being happy with clean metal? </worriedmode>
'></maybe>
'>Previously I have been a firm advocate of red rust paint (3 coats)
'>followed by black enamel (2 coats) - it was the constant praises which
'>Hammerite receives on this list which persuaded me to try it - have I
'>made a boo-boo?
'
>Please confirm that this was a typo <hopefulmode>
>.
>Adrian Redmond
>.
Adrian,

 Hammerite is not one of your best rust protectorants.  It creates a 
polymer barrier that works as long as there is no rust underneath AND you 
do not pierce it at all.  It does not self heal it all.  The polymer 
takes about 6 weeks to fully harden.  It does not adhere well to 
aluminum.  I use it with a self etching primer to get it to stick better. 
 I had my dealer order special primer to go with Hammerite.

I use Hammerite ONLY because it was original paint on Dormobile cabinets 
and the air cleaner.

I personally think that your previous way of protecting metal was better. 
 Only I would have used a phosphoric acid based prewash just before 
priming.

That said.  Don't worry about it.  Just check over your frame when every 
you are under the car and repair problem areas as they happen. 

I never refinished my frame, but I have refinished all of it at least 
once and a few areas several times.  Whenever I am working on the car 
near the frame I always clean, inspect and refinish that section of frame 
as needed.  It adds a little to each job, but it is not the big nasty job 
of completely refinishing a frame.  SO changing shocks means cleaning and 
refinishing a couple of feet of frame adjacent to each shock.  Replacing 
a transmission means refinishing the frame behind the engine to a bit 
behind the seat box.

         | TeriAnn Wakeman
         | twakeman@cruzers.com
         | http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
         |
         | "The Green Rover"
         | 1960 109 two door
         | Expidition equipped
         |
         | _______     ____
      .==|"======="==='    `=============.
     /   |	                               \
     | ._|_______________________________. |
     |/  |    	___________________	    .. \|
    ,|___|____/ _________________ \____||__|,       
     | .-|-. | |	                | | .-||. |
     | | | | | |	                |'%,||||| |	
     | | | | | |                	| | ||||| |	
 _   | | | | | |_________________| | ||||| |  _	
(_)  | | | | |                    	| ||||| | (_)
   \ | `-|-' |        	==	        '% ||||' |/
   ,'====|===|=====================|=||||===` 
   |(o)  | 0||	        ||	        ||0||||(o)|
   |(o)  o  ||	        ||	        || ||||(o)|
   ||   ==  ||	        ||        	|| ||||  ||
   ||  ____ ||	        ||	        || ||||__||
   || |7050|||        	||	        || |____/||
   ||  ---- ||_________||_________||   ||  ||
   ||_______|______________________|___||__||
   | |	    |	        | _ |	         |	    | |
   |_|_____|_________[ - ]__________|_____|_| 
    | Land  |~~~~~~~~'~~~.___/~~~~ | Land  |
    |   /   |                      |   /   |
    | Rover |	                     | Rover |
    |_______|                    	 |_______|
     |\\~//|	                       |\\~//|
     |_\_/_|	                       |_\_/_|

  [Key -Dormobile top, military bummperettes,
   rear whip antenna, vertical rear mounted 
   hiLift jack, tail gate, side hinged lift gate]

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 09:07:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Peter's Solex Fix 

>One thing you could try is to chuck the spindle in a drill (firmly 
>clamped to your bench), and using a file, dig a groove that the o-ring 
>can seat into. Whucha got to lose?

The carburetor?

Why not take the base down to a carb shop and have them install a set of 
bushings.  Rebushing worn throttle shafts is a standard fix that 
professional carburetor shops are generally set up to do.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:24:19 -0400
Subject: re: POR15

I had much the same experience as Andy did when it came to POR-15. It
worked it's way through my latex gloves and Tyvek coverall, and because we
were painting Rison's frame "in place" I managed to get quite a bit on my
face.

Nothing seemed to take it off, including kerosene or gasoline, and I was
very concerned about showing up to work on VIP's computers looking like a
chimney sweep. The following day I was racing in a regatta and, by chance,
thought about sunscreen--which I seldom use in these northern lattitudes.
However, I remembered that it usually removes a lot of dead skin when I use
it in the tropics.

The bottom line is that Bullfrog Body Gel sunscreen (the regular bees-wax
based stuff in the green/white bottle, not the quick drying alcohol based
formulation) seems to remove POR-15 from the face. "Quick Stuff" Hand
cleaner and a stiff "grime grabber" brush from the autoparts store took
most of it off of my hands--and the sunscreen pulled the remainder off.
Nothing except time got it off of my elbows.

Not sure if it matters, chemistry being a pseudo-science and all, but I
think it was SPF 18.

Your mileage may vary, but I'd love to hear if this works for anyone else
or if it's unique to my situation.

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@SMDC.ORG>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:42:08 -0500
Subject: Chassis Maintenence

	All this talk about Hammerite and Hammerwrong has pequed my
interest in frame maintenence.  So what is the consensus on the best
frame maintanence program/products for steel frames.  My frame was
rebuilt  8 years ago and had a NAPA chassis paint on it.  It is still in
very good shape but I am going to do a major maintence program this
month.  

	I plan to waxoyl the inners but am uncertain as what to use on
the outside.  For the most part the paint has held well except in a few
spots where there is some surface rust.

	How would you recommend I treat this?
	How do you feel about some of the rubber based coatings and what
is the best  kind to use?
	What should I do with the surface rust now?  

	Thanks
	Cwolfe

	Addendum

	Thanks for the help with the 109 brakes.  I did indeed have the
polarity of the shoes reversed. 

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:54:44 -0700
Subject: RE: Ignition timing vs compression vs Octane

Lawrence,

The way that I understand it: a higher octane ratio makes the fuel / air
mixture harder to ignite, and makes it burn slower.  Using this
principal, you can ignite the mixture earlier in the compression stroke
of the piston (Before Top Dead Center) and have the compressed mixture
reach it's most efficient burn at the right time and also provide power
for the entire power stroke of the piston.  With a low octane fuel, the
mixture would burn to quickly at these early ignition settings
(pre-ignition) and cause knocking & pinging (plinking in the U.K.).  

In a high compression engine, the pre-ignition problem is enhanced in
that the high compression ratio heats up the mixture.  A hot mixture
will ignite and burn faster.  At a certain compression ration, the
mixture will ignite all on its own without a spark.  I think that this
ratio is around 12 or 13 to 1, Anybody?

In my other older cars, I have always set the timing as far ahead as
possible without pinging.  In a Land Rover, this is difficult as it's
hard to hear any pinging over all the other noises!  :-)

Hope this helps...

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: LEBLANC_CJ 
</DD.XMRROUTE=Leblanc#l#u#r#Cj#l#a#r#AM#l#a#r#I22005/@csc-scc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 26 Jun 1998 19:19:00 +0000
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE lro digest

unsubscribe lro digest

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:31:37 EDT
Subject: RE-110 axels on a 109?

Ian Stuart Wrote

>I know this is a strange concept, however....

>What do people think of the idea of affixing 110 axels to a 109, using
>leaf springs!

>In theory, this would allow more turn on the wheels before they foul the
>chassis/suspension.

I have seen this done Ian. It looked a bit weird with the axles sticking out
so far beyond the springs but it worked, and it sure does give better steering
lock. You will need 90/110 style wheel eyebrows on the arches, and a set of
spring/shock absorber mounts cut from old leaf sprung axles welded onto the
110 axles. Do not worry about the rear axle handling all the power as the 110
axles are stronger than series axles anyway.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:31:49 EDT
Subject: Re-How I Got the Pully dog nut Undone

Martin Lough Wrote
>I asked a local member of the hells angles to take a look at it, When I 
>arrived home on Tuesday from work the nut was sitting on the side of the 
>Landrover. No sign of blood so I thought well done to the bikers.

Wow, one look from those guys usualy scares my nuts off as well :-)

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:58:32 -0400
Subject: Re: POR15...and now Pelucid

re: POR 15
great stuff very tough no doubt about it..hard to get off I wish I knew
about this sunscreen trick a few months ago when I did my frame..
don't think I would want to spray POR15 unless I had the proper fresh
air system it's nasty stuff.
The makers of POR 15 have a new product called PELUCID..which is a clear
top coat. They gave me some to try just before winter..I polished the
piece, then applied it to one side of a piece of galvanized trim that
was recently hot dipped. It has been outside all winter one side has the
usual grey patina developing, the other still looks like the day I set
it out.
Same qualities as POR 15... rock hard  
good stuff for anyone looking to protect the appearance of new
Galvanized trim
and the excess makes your nails look great!!
FWIW
Rgds
Steve Bradke  72 series lll 88 ( for Sale )
              68 lla 88

------------------------------

From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:19:29 -0400
Subject: re: POR15

I had Bill Rice's 109 in my garage for about four months.  During this time
I and a helper removed the body from the chassis for a nice coat of POR 15
and a top coat of Rustolium (you may have seen some of my work when Bill's
Landy was on its side at OVLR).  I used this stuff I found at the local
auto parts store called "Invisible Glove" to prevent any exposure to the
POR.  And now I swear by the stuff.  Just wipe your hands till it dries and
go to town.  When your done just wash it and the funk with it.

Cheers,

Mike Johnson
74 88 Chester
looking at 96 Disco...
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

At 12:24 PM 6/26/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I had much the same experience as Andy did when it came to POR-15. It
>worked it's way through my latex gloves and Tyvek coverall, and because we
>were painting Rison's frame "in place" I managed to get quite a bit on my
>face.
>Nothing seemed to take it off, including kerosene or gasoline, and I was
>very concerned about showing up to work on VIP's computers looking like a
>chimney sweep. The following day I was racing in a regatta and, by chance,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 44 lines)]
>	I can see it no other way.
>		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:19:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

In a message dated 26/06/98 12:02:39 BST, you write:

<< What's that you say about Hammerite Frank? I have just painted my
 chassis and most steel parts with Hammerite. Most parts were stripped to
 clean metal first. The instructions say that hammerite should be used on
 raw metal, without primer or rust preventer - <worriedmode> what do you
 mean about hammerite not being happy with clean metal? </worriedmode>
 </maybe>
 Previously I have been a firm advocate of red rust paint (3 coats)
 followed by black enamel (2 coats) - it was the constant praises which
 hammerite receives on this list which persuaded me to try it - have I
 made a boo-boo? >>

Adrian, Oh sh*t!
Sorry, but my observations and those of a neighbour who has been a painter of
metal machinery for over twenty-five years are:

1. Hammerite is only really effective on rust, neighbour would actually leave
clean metal outside for a few days.

2. It has to have a second coat either within the hour (while first coat is
still sticky) or you must wait six weeks before putting another coat on.

3. It chips and/or peels off clean metal or other paint.

4. It must not be covered with another paint until the six weeks curing.

The red lead, two coats, second coat after an hour, which my mate put on five
years ago when he first did remedial work, before this current rebuild, is
still there when I started to clean up for a repaint.
 It is ready two, three hours, for a covering coat of enamel or underseal.

Ten years ago when I did a full rebuild on my Range Rover, everything got
Hammerited. A lot of it didn't last,  I wish I'd known about the red lead
then........

sorry, what can I say?

Mind you, I'm sure we'll get loads of mails from satisfied Hammerite customers
now. so ignore this one and go with what they say!!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:19:23 EDT
Subject: Re: 110 axels on a 109?

In a message dated 26/06/98 12:03:50 BST, you write:

<< >least) ??
 I'd take one 110 rear axle over two 88 axles any day; not that I'm biased or
 anything... >>
well, if you're building a single axle trailer, maybe........:-)>

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:19:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Hammmerite or hammerwrong?

In a message dated 26/06/98 17:09:16 BST, you write:

<<  Replacing 
 a transmission means refinishing the frame behind the engine to a bit 
 behind the seat box. >>

Thought you had a Land Rover?
 I mean, all that area can't rust, not soaking in oil like that.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 1998 00:53:53 +0200
Subject: Re: Chassis Maintenence

Hi Charles,

There are two courses on chassis maintenance - depending on time, money,
and personal taste.

The first is to clean and underseal (PAVA, Tectyl or similar - many
members on this list have their own "brew" for underseal). Advantages -
quick, long lasting, durable. Disadvantages - makes welding difficult
(and dangerous - my neighbour had his new car burnt total last week when
he parked in long grass - his catalysator ignited the grass and that
ignited the underseal, by the time he'd drunk a cup of coffee the car
was a write off surrounded by a host of fire engines... but that is
another story).

My main dislike about undersealing is that it covers as many sins as it
cures, a whole bunch of problems can develop under the underseal, which
cannot be seen until the corrosion eats its way through the surface.

I remove all bvodywork every year or two on all three of my series III's
- in this case underseal would make life difficult - undersealing the
chassis may be a good idea - undersealing the electrics, gearbox, tyres,
brake lines and everything else is not funny.

I have spent hours/days stripping all underseal off my cars, after which
they are either rust painted a couple of coats then painted with black
marine enamel. My latest 88" rebuild has had a long think coat of
Hammerite and it looks great - seems hard too! I will be able to comment
on durability in a year or two.

OK - my choice makes for work more often, but it's easy, and any interim
repairs are uninhibited by gunk and goo over everything. The only
problem is that you have to wash you hands before you work on my chassis
- please!

And it looks great

Butb as they say, you pays your money, you takes yer chance...

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:10:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Chassis Maintenence

In a message dated 27/06/98 00:04:36 BST, you write:

 I remove all bvodywork every year or two on all three of my series III's
 - in this case underseal would make life difficult - undersealing the
 chassis may be a good idea - undersealing the electrics, gearbox, tyres,
 brake lines and everything else is not funny.
 
 I have spent hours/days stripping all underseal off my cars, after which
 they are either rust painted a couple of coats then painted with black
 marine enamel. >>

Frost - a parts/tools etc supplier to the 'restoration classic car' business
are just a few miles from me. They sell 'original' black chassis enamel and
can point to fifty year old vehicles with good chassis painted with the stuff.
As far as I can tell it's the same as marine enamel.
 Of course, now I've got my galvanised chassis....(smugmode)
Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 19:54:02 +1000
Subject: I think I found my build order sheet...

Pat wrote:
>Colour:  456  White-Alpine/Savarin     (what's Savarin?)
>X.BT042 14 PLATE WET V8 BMS (what's a 14 plate wet,
>anyone recognize that? or BMS?)

14 Plate wet sounds like the battery type.  Years ago one bought 9 plate or
11 plate or 13 plate (always an odd-number) -  14-plate?  Dunno.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 19:45:17 +1000
Subject: TeriAnn's Heavy car

TeriAn wrote:

>Wedged between the ammo box and the side wall around the front
>filler tube is a set of radiator hoses, one or two new fuel filters, shop
>rags,  and a car of WD40.

>I'm suddenly beginning to realize why my car is so heavy.

Yes., TeriAnn.  I think you could save a lot of weight by reducing the
amount of WD40 to 1 (perhaps 2) cans.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:56:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: re: POR15

>Not sure if it matters, chemistry being a pseudo-science and all, but I
>think it was SPF 18.

 Chemistry - A Pseudo-Science?! You Can't Really Be Serious?!!
- Peter "Ex-Chemist" Kaskan

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382   &   pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:07:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Help W/Valve Seal Replacement - MA or NY

Hi All -
	My oil consumtion is driving me batty! 1Qt per 100 miles! I only
see smoke on a warm start-up. Recently - I have noticed at night
w/head-lights behind me - smoke coming from the exaust when at the high end
of a gear. There are very few oil leaks -  I can only find one - along the
oil pan bolts.
	So, I was wondering if someone out there has replaced valve seals
on a low compression 2.25 head (I think)? If so, might you have the
equipment, experience and time to help me do it? I live in Ithaca, and I
will be visiting central MA soon. It would be a great help to me. Thanks -
Peter - hope to meet you all in Cortland soon

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382   &   pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:13:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Looking for David Walker (?) - Paint Help Wanted

Hi David - and those listening in -
	I am probably going to buy a HVLP for my rover - a few more questions.
	What primer would I use on galvanising? I'll be painting w/PPG A-E.
	I am not going to repaint and replace my spare bed - but repair my
corrosion damage w/ an Al filled epoxy. Now I'll have to learn how to blend
the new paint into my already nicely painted - yet rotting 88inbed. How
would I do this?
Thanks Again - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382   &   pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:17:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Galvanising in Cortland NY

Hi there - I found a place that does acid bath and HD galvanising - in
Cortland of all places. It's called Cooper Tools - 0.55$ a pound. Their
tank is 4ft by 10ft. They have a 50lb minimum - but it's still cheap. I'm
doing my door frames, liftgate frame, breakfast, windshield frame etc. See
you - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382   &   pmk11@cornell.edu
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:53:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Help W/Valve Seal Replacement - MA or NY

On Fri, 26 Jun 1998, Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

> Hi All -
> 	My oil consumtion is driving me batty! 1Qt per 100 miles! I only

A quart every hundred miles:  What low oil consumption!  On my 800 mile
drive back from the OVLR birthday party I went through two cases.  Very
strange to have to stop a car to put oil in it more often than gas.
Needless to say, the thing is parked until I get guide seals (at the very
least, I seem to have some low oil pressure problems) into to it.

David/the very smokey mr. sinclair

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 1998 13:48:06 +1000
Subject: Fw: lightweight USA

Sorry about the double post (no I'm not really) but this may be of interest
to some of you in the USA.

Ron Beckett

>Ad         1968 lightweight landrover, soft top, rhd, full military spec,
>[twin tanks, split rims, utility boxes, bumperettes, lifting shackles,
>hitch, complete with cranking handle and shovel and pick, original army
>plates] weber carb, smith heater, new rad, new leaf springs all round,
>looks and runs great, E mail for more info or pictures,  price US$8500.00
>Carl Smith at E mail    barnicjj@whitman.edu
>Tel         509-5224468  [Walla Walla, Washington, USA.

------------------------------

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