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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:31:51 +0000
Subject: Re: LRO

Does anyone know how to subscribe to LRO in Denmark? Is it worth the
>for the Coilers, Discos and Freeloaders?

*Both* mags seem to be yaddering on about Freeloaders at present.No doubt
the novelty will wear off,given time.As for LRO itself,much like any other
mag dealing with a limited subject,it has its on days and its off days.
LRW bade fair to be the better mag up until recently,but IMO the latest
issue is pretty awful,whereas the last two issues of LRO have been very
good indeed.Like you,I'm primarily interested in series stuff,but its
difficult to give any constructive comment,bearing in mind the individual's
preference for different types of article.Are there none on sale on
bookstalls in Denmark so you could "suck it and see" sort of thing?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Mikko Kalevi Lehmusto <mlehmust@hit.fi>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:35:02 +0300 (EEST)
Subject: oil vs. grease

When I was working in a fork-lift truck repair shop at the Finnish Post,
we had problems with leaky final drives in small electric trucks. As the
workers left pieces of string etc. lying on the floor and then happily
drove over them, the strings often got wound on the final drive shafts,
and damaged the oil seals (removing the strings with a knife and a
screwdriver, lying under the machine, was very funny..).

So, we used to fill the drives with a stuff which was something between
oil and grease, so that it won't leak so easily. It worked well, and we
had no problems with insufficient lubrication. (The recommended lubricant
for the parts was 90W EP gear oil).

When I was assembling the front axle of my Landy-project (SIII), I thought
about getting something similar in the swivels, but as I didn't have the
stuff, I tried mixing 90w EP-oil ang a good quality vaseline. The result
was identical to the factory-made product, and looked very convincing. I
found out that I was able to easily adjust the viscosity of the stuff by
changing the quantities of oil and grease. The grease dissolves in the oil
when mixed, and forms a constant-quality mixture.

I haven't tested the stuff in practise yet (as my LR is still missing the
engine and some other small bits), but I suppose i'll work out OK. If
you're interested, try mixing a coctail to your tastes (with the usual
disclaimers, of course).  

Mikko Lehmusto
student, Mech. Engineering
FINLAND
SIII 109" D (project)

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:52:22 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: grease in front swivel housings

On Thu, 25 Jun 1998, Richard Clarke wrote:

> it doesn't leak out but stays sloppy enough to not just stick to the inside
> of the outer edge when the axle spins (like pure grease does) and thus
> keeps the uni or cv lubricated

... but will it splash sufficiently to keep the top swivel bearing lubricated?
I seem to recall that the hole in the bearing for oil to enter it is
pretty small. At least it is small on the bakelite bearing of the SIII,
not sure how this looks on the coilers, as they have conical roller
bearings on top as well as the one at the bottom.

> CVs came in with the stage one (constant 4wd)

They did indeed.

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:03:08 EDT
Subject: Re:  LockRight locker for LR Salisbury axle?

In a message dated 6/25/98 4:15:33 AM, you wrote:

>Does anyone know is LockRight locker available for Land-Rover 109"
>Salisbury diff (4.7:1) .  And if it is where to get one from UK? Any good
>URL's?

It should be, I've seen ads in the UK LR magazines... Just saw that your e-
mail is *.fi* which i'm guessing is Finland. You may want to ask around for
local experiences with lockers on icy roads. i guess they'd be ok with studded
tyres, but you probably know that these type of lockers will want to send your
vehicle sideways on ice or when traversing sideslopes. The reason being they
are normally locked and only unlock when "forced" to by a wheel that needs to
rotate more, or less, than the other one on the axle.

You may as well also look into the Detroit Locker, same concept, just done
better. All you have to replace is the carrier, then shim it to make sure it
is the same width as the one you took out, and re-install the diff. You don't
need to re-set-up the r&p, etc... This is from the people who make the true-
trac limited slip for the front axle. 

Unfortunately, the *Soft-Locker* isn't available for the Salisbury; it reduces
the clickity-pop syndrome that afflicts those types of lockers. So far, the
soft locker is only available for rover axles (according to the manufacturer,
who is semi-kinda-knowledgeable about LR axles)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:43:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: fix for overtight oil-pan bolts

Hi all,
	My oil pan is still leaking after a new seal (IIA). I think the
bolts may have been overtightened. Isn't there a fix for this - like with a
ball-pein hammer?
Thanks in advance - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:50:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: LR's near Seneca Falls NY, 6/26, 27, 28???

I'm headed up to Seneca Falls this weekend, from Ithaca, Anybody up there?
Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:47:36 -0400
Subject: Re: fix for overtight oil-pan bolts

Re: Overtight oil-pan bolts:

Before you take a hammer to the poor thing, use a good straightedge to see
if indeed it has been bent.

If it has, you can tap the thing down by resting the edge on an anvil and
flattening the bumps, then draw-file it smooth and repaint the edge.

Be careful that the pan's not warped in some other way, though - check the
warping across and look for twist also.

Are you sure it's coming from the pan gasket?

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:46:33 -0500
Subject: Transmission breather?

Just got my 1969 88" SW last January, and I have to admit
that I'm hooked.  Knock on some wood for me, but its been
running like a champ and I'm using it as a daily driver.  I've
already put on about 5000 miles!

A question on transmission/transfer case breather.   My
transmission has been leaking/spraying 90wt for the last
couple of weeks.  I've been pretty diligent on topping it off
every couple days, but I finally bought it to my mechanic
earlier this week to have him take a look.   He claims that
a breather that attaches to both the transmission and
transfer case will solve my problems.  The part is on the
way from RN, and should be installed today.

Highlighting my general mechanical ignorance here.   What
does a breather do?  How will it be fitted to both the transfer
case and transmission?   It seems like a stretch to me that
this will solve my loss of 90wt.   Any comments/suggestions?

Thanks!

-cjc

*********************************************************
* Christopher Clanton               *   *     Andersen Consulting		
*
* clantoc@cscoe.ac.com           *   *     Minneapolis, MN USA		*
*                                             69 IIa 88				
*
*********************************************************  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:58:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission breather?

OK, breathers in a nutshell:

The problem has been referred to as the "British Teakettle Effect".

What happens is that the transmission and transfer case heat up and blow
oil out the breather holes in the case, rather than retaining the oil. A
lot of this is because the breather holes are too small, allowing pressure
to build up. The other bit of it is that the breathers are holes to
atmosphere with no trap for the oil internally.

What an external breather does is 2 things:

1. It gives the pressure a much easier route out of the transmission, so
that pressure doesn't build up. This way, it's not pushing the oil through
the seals or gasket surfaces, and the oil better stays where it belongs.

2. It gives escaping oil a place to go where the oil can be recovered
(gravity drip will return it to the case if the breather's routed
properly). This way, any oil blown up the breather will run back down
rather than out and lost.

I've got one breather line running to my trans, transfer case and
overdrive. It keeps things in place well, except on really long hauls...but
that's tolerable.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:16:51 -0400
Subject: Oil's well...

"Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> wrote:

>as soon as there is any sign of leakage through the front swivel seals I
>have always replaced the grease with a 50-50 grease/90wt mixture

>it doesn't leak out but stays sloppy enough to not just stick to the inside
>of the outer edge when the axle spins (like pure grease does) and thus
>keeps the uni or cv lubricated

I've had good luck with a mixture of 90 wt and "HiTach", a 'cling' oil
kinda like chain saw bar oil in that it makes 'strings' between your thumb
and forefinger.  The adhesive properties seem to keep the oil in better,
plus it lowered the operating temperature of my transfer case by 75 degrees
on long hot summer runs.

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Ian Stuart <"Ian.,Stuart"@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:20:34 +0100
Subject: 110 axels on a 109?

I know this is a strange concept, however....

What do people think of the idea of affixing 110 axels to a 109, using
leaf springs!

In theory, this would allow more turn on the wheels before they foul the
chassis/suspension.

-- 
Ian Stuart
Medicine & Veterinary Medicine Computing Support
The University of Edinburgh

              http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

LandRovers - a 50-year-old stop-gap that has become the most successful 
             4x4 production vehicle in the world.

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:40:00 +0100
Subject: How I Got the Pully dog nut Undone

I asked a local member of the hells angles to take a look at it, When I 
arrived home on Tuesday from work the nut was sitting on the side of the 
Landrover. No sign of blood so I thought well done to the bikers.

Martin Lough
Frank W Murphy Ltd. U.K.
Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext 245)
Fax: +44 1722 410088
email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk
Visit Our Website at http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk

martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:16:03 -0700
Subject: Solex Air Leaks

Greetings,

I spent about an hour last night trying to get my Land Rover to idle at
a decent speed without much luck.  I have come to the conclusion that
the throttle spindle shaft has worn the throttle body, allowing air to
leak in.  When I sprayed carb cleaner on the spindle shaft from the
outside, the idle smoothed out & picked up.  The Green Bible states that
the only fix for this is to replace the throttle body.  Does anybody
know of an alternative (read cheaper) fix?  I thought about wrapping
teflon plumbers tape around the shaft at either end to try to get a
better seal.  How would teflon tape stand up to petrol?

I have a feeling that I'll just end up getting a replacement carb with
either a Webber or a Rochester.  Anybody have any old Solex bits that
they want to get rid of?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 17:23:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Solex Air Leaks

I would have thought teflon would have been fine.

I have it on my oil temperature pickup - the threads aren't quite the right
size (long story).

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Paul_Quin@pml.com on 06/25/98 05:16:03 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Solex Air Leaks

Greetings,
I spent about an hour last night trying to get my Land Rover to idle at
a decent speed without much luck.  I have come to the conclusion that
the throttle spindle shaft has worn the throttle body, allowing air to
leak in.  When I sprayed carb cleaner on the spindle shaft from the
outside, the idle smoothed out & picked up.  The Green Bible states that
the only fix for this is to replace the throttle body.  Does anybody
know of an alternative (read cheaper) fix?  I thought about wrapping
teflon plumbers tape around the shaft at either end to try to get a
better seal.  How would teflon tape stand up to petrol?
I have a feeling that I'll just end up getting a replacement carb with
either a Webber or a Rochester.  Anybody have any old Solex bits that
they want to get rid of?
Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:18:50 EDT
Subject: Re: How I Got the Pully dog nut Undone

In a message dated 6/25/98 12:16:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
martin@fwmurphy.co.uk writes:

 I asked a local member of the hells angles to take a look at it,  >>

Must be a British motorcycle gang (Although I always thought it was spelled
Engles)

Nate

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:20:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Solex Air Leaks

Paul,

there was a gent here about a yuear ago that detailed a way to rebush a
Solex carb body if you had a drillpress and a steady hand. A search of the
archives should turn it up.

Alternately, you might take the butterfly area to a local carb shop and
have it rebushed with brass or Teflon - gotta be cheaper than a new carb...

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 17:39:59 +0100
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

>I guess it has a use as a temporary application, but I do not think it
>replaces hot-dip. It may be useful to some who have no access to, or the
>budget for, hot-dip galvanizing. It is worth doing it in hot-dip.
>To put it a different way; least favorite process: spray/cold galvanizing
>zinc, next-to-least favorite: powder-coating, best liked: proper

galvanizing.
>I guess it has a use as a temporary application, but I do not think it
After a much discussion over Landy bonnets, and some advice from Michael
Fredette, I am still unsure about the best way of coating my little 101.

1.Given that I am on a very tight budget (my Mini needs a lot of work doing
to it), how much of a long term solution is priming the chassis with zinc
primer and slapping a load of paint over the top? I plan of shot blasting
the chassis anyway, but the paint route seems a lot cheaper than
galvanising.

2. I saw a Dutch 101 at Eastnor Castle the other week with a couple of
powder-coated ally panels. I thought it looked good, and seemed better than
spraying. Also in terms of a long life and hardwearing etc, which is the
best? Michael reckons powder coating comes off aluminium in nice big sheets
after a couple of years...

Cheers,

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 17:03:43 +0100
Subject: Re: 110 axels on a 109?

>I know this is a strange concept, however....
>What do people think of the idea of affixing 110 axels to a 109, using
>leaf springs!
>In theory, this would allow more turn on the wheels before they foul the
>chassis/suspension.
>I

'm not so ure you'd notice any difference - the front wheel foul on the
springs, hence limited turning circle. Putting the 110 axles on with leaf
springs means the springs are in the same place - still foulling.

I don't know the difference in track between the 109 and 110 axles - might
make a difference, but you'd have to use wheels with a greater offset if the
track is wider - back to the original problem. Either that or put spacers on
the rear axle - mucho wider track.

Why not just put it down to experience and accept that road junctions can be
really embarrasing sometimes?

Cheers

Micky
(101 in bits)

>--

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 17:31:49 +0100
Subject: Re: I think I found my build order sheet...

> >I was so exited! I was poking around the car this morning, and I saw this
> >crumpled up sheet of pink paper, so I contorted my arm and strained to
>pull
> >it out.
> >The factory line build order! Wooohoooo, there are all the specs and
> >instructions... wow! How did it get where it did? Gee, those blokes at
> >Solihull must be too lazy to find a trashcan near the assembly line...

The only bits of paper I found in my 101 were an empty fag packet under the
seat and a mouldy mustard sachet in the air vent...

I guess expecting a build order sheet to still be secreted about a 101 after
23 years of hammering around the hillsides by a load of over-keen squaddies
is expecting little bit too much!

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 17:25:36 +0100
Subject: Re: LRO

>Does anyone know how to subscribe to LRO in Denmark? Is it worth the
>>read - how much series coverage is there? Or is it mainly promo articles
>>for the Coilers, Discos and Freeloaders?

I get both mags - LRO is more for the anorak, serious off-roader, full of
trips and adventures, LR history etc; LRW is more of a laddish magazine,
with a lot more humour, but the subject matter is not covered to the same
depth.

If you don't know what they are like,  why not order some back issues?

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 98 13:24:54 EST
Subject: Re: 110 axels on a 109?

>What do people think of the idea of affixing 110 axels to a 109, using 
>leaf springs!
>In theory, this would allow more turn on the wheels before they foul the 
>chassis/suspension.

you'd have disc brakes too. a dandy idea if ever i've heard one. 
make up a set for me too while you're at it.

daveb

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:48:41 EDT
Subject: Re: LockRight locker for LR Salisbury axle?

In a message dated 25/06/98 09:15:33 BST, you write:

 Does anyone know is LockRight locker available for Land-Rover 109"
 Salisbury diff (4.7:1) .  And if it is where to get one from UK? Any good
 URL's? >>
Last time I spoke to LockRight's man in the Uk they hadn't got a Salisbury one
- I'll ask again (say two days) and tell you for certain.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:57:04 -0400
Subject: Mickey's in a pickle...

Best lo-cost frame slime by far is POR-15. Can be applied with a brush, 
hardens to rock-like hammer-resistant finish and seals and prevents rust. 
What's not to like? With a spray set-up you can finish the frame in an 
afternoon, Waxoyl the innards and have time for a game of quoits before 
supper.
Failing that, you can try my hellish mixture of equal parts turpentine, 
linseed oil, roofing tar and flat black enamel, applied heavily with a 
rag.
Powder coating looks good for exactly one week and then it gets full off 
dangs and scratches. As a reward, it is not field-repairable.
Use paint.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:43:18 EDT
Subject: Power steering Advise needed

Is there anyone out there who can help me with a Land Rover power steering
problem? I have just converted my hybrid to power from manual using second
hand Range Rover parts.
My concern is that the steering feels very vague around the centre line. I
know that my front radius arm bushes are worn, and will be replacing them soon
(panard rod bushes are new). The steering was very positive before but damd
hard work particularly when reversing a trailer on tarmac. It is now light as
a feather, but seems to have a delayed response when starting to turn from a
straight line. 
Whilst driving in a straight line the steering wheel position can vary by as
much as a quarter of a turn! Can this be cured by fitting a seal kit or is the
box so worn that I should opt for a re-con, the box does not leak at all.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:58:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Solex Fix - Cheap

Hi all - Here's what I did for my leaking solex throttle body.
	Bring the shaft to a hardware store and find some O-rings to fit
snugly over each end - buy a few different thicknesses. Put it all back
together - put the o-rings on the shaft on the outside of the throttle body
- between that and the nuts which actuate the pump and the throttle. If you
get one just the right thickness it will just squeeze nicely enough to keep
air from rushing in - it dosen't really keep the gas in if the leak is bad
(rover not running). You will also need to attach an extra return spring
somewhere to compensate for the extra tension. Hope it helps - If not...
	There is a guy in NY who works on Zeniths and SU's. He said he
could rebush (attempt) it for maybe 50$. I may go that route when I get my
spare solex bits in the mail
(Are you out there Art?).

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Francois ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:01:57 +0200
Subject: Re: Solex Air Leaks

Hello
I do not perfectly understand the problem, but I reply anyway :-) (do
not blame all the frenchies :-)

I had air problems on a solex, two kinds of problem :

** the carburettor top was not plane anymore, i mean thant by
(over)tightening the screws whic join top and bottom it was shaped like
this "(" instead of "|" ... it was bent . (no dictionnary near me, big
problems to find this #'#{[ word for "carburateur déformé !")

The solution is to "polish" it on a very plate and not to much abrasive
piece of stone (the one you use to make knifes cut better ...) in order
to plane the surface of the carburettor 

** the other problem was the fixation of the piece wich opens / closes
the air/essence flow , which look like this -/- (more or less
...)(butterfly in literal translation )
I had this repaired by chemically putting chrom (Cr chemical symbol, do
not know the real name in english)(chromium?) on the axis

The next time i will make a drawing instead of searching words for every
sentence :-)

Richard> Greetings,
Richard> I spent about an hour last night trying to get my Land Rover to idle at
Richard> a decent speed without much luck.  I have come to the conclusion that
Richard> the throttle spindle shaft has worn the throttle body, allowing air to
Richard> leak in.  When I sprayed carb cleaner on the spindle shaft from the
Richard> outside, the idle smoothed out & picked up.  The Green Bible states 
that
Richard> the only fix for this is to replace the throttle body.  Does anybody
Richard> know of an alternative (read cheaper) fix?  I thought about wrapping
Richard> teflon plumbers tape around the shaft at either end to try to get a
Richard> better seal.  How would teflon tape stand up to petrol?
Richard> I have a feeling that I'll just end up getting a replacement carb with
Richard> either a Webber or a Rochester.  Anybody have any old Solex bits that
Richard> they want to get rid of?
Richard> Paul Quin
Richard> 1961 Series II 88
Richard> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/

------------------------------

From: Francois ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:07:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Solex Air Leaks

Sorry , it was on a zenith not a solex !

On Thu, 25 Jun 1998 23:01:57 +0200
Francois ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr> wrote:

Francois> I had air problems on a solex, two kinds of problem :

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 18:37:52 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: 110 axels on a 109?

In a message dated 6/25/98 12:47:27 PM, you wrote:

>>'m not so ure you'd notice any difference - the front wheel foul on the
springs, hence limited turning circle. Putting the 110 axles on with leaf
springs means the springs are in the same place - still foulling.<<

Yeah, but the 110 axles are wider, aren't they, which should put the wheels
farther away from the leaves, right? That's why 110s with 110/130 wheels need
the eyebrows to stay legal.

>>I don't know the difference in track between the 109 and 110 axles - might
make a difference, but you'd have to use wheels with a greater offset if the
track is wider - back to the original problem. Either that or put spacers on
the rear axle - mucho wider track.<<

He would have to use a 110 rear axle too (how about Stage 1 axles?). The
wheels would probably stick out beyond the edge of the bodypanels, but it
shouldn't be a huge problem.

The disk brakes DaveB mentioned would also be a plusitive addition to the
vehicle, not to mention the stronger axle halfshafts, diffs, etc. (He would
also have to put grease in the hubs ;-) hahaha.)

As I asked above, why not Stage 1 axles? Does anyone know the difference
between those and RR/110 axles of the day? I mean, they are designed for V8
power, gearing and stopping, aren't they?

--pat.

------------------------------

From: GcdoAK@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 20:02:32 EDT
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

In a message dated 98-06-25 12:47:31 EDT, you write:

<< Given that I am on a very tight budget (my Mini needs a lot of work doing
 to it), how much of a long term solution is priming the chassis with zinc
 primer and slapping a load of paint over the top? I plan of shot blasting
 the chassis anyway, but the paint route seems a lot cheaper than
 galvanising. >>

If you are going to shot blast the frame then I would suggest that you use an
epoxy primer, and then the top coat of your choice.  This will give you the
best protection possible.  

On something that is especially rusty.  After you clean off the rust as best
you can, use a rust converter (phosphoric acid solution) then prime and paint.

The zinc primer that you mentioned will work well for both aluminum and steel.
The best kind to get will be a two part, with an acid as the second part.  The
acid will help bind the primer to the metal.  This is especially usefull with
aluminum.  This stuff if properly top coated will last for at least 5-10 years
in a salt water environment, as long as the coating isn't broken.

One thing that especially needs to be remembered is the word PRIMER.  Primers
are made to be porous so that the top coat will adhere to it.  It is best to
put some kind of cover coat onto primer as soon as possible.  Even if its not
a color that you want as final, the primer needs to be sealed soon.

Many kinds of marine epoxy primers even recommend that you put on the top coat
before the primer is fully cured.  It will be dry to the touch, but not
chemically fully cured, and the top coat will supposedly be chemically bonded
to the primer.  There are some epoxy marine primers that are specially
formulated to withstand being coated by oil all the time.  Although I'm sure
that the bottom of everyones rover is absolutely oil free at all times. ;-)
The one product that I am familliar with here in the States is Devoe Bilge
Coat.  Its 2 part 1:1 ratio.  Very, Very tough stuff when dry but goes on well
with a brush, roller or spray.

These methods have served me well on steel and aluminum Motor Lifeboats
(Waverney class for the Brits.) for 11 years.  Can't think of a worse
environment, and the paint will last for years.

SAFETY NOTE:  Zinc oxide that is part of zinc primer is a toxic metal and can
be sensitizing.  Epoxy can also be sensitizing.  I have seen people develop
allergies to both.  Use with lots of ventilation, use a high quality
respirator, and use gloves that are appropriate to the chemicals that you are
using.  Latex gloves do a very good job of keeping blood off your skin, that
why medical folks use them.  Painters need to use nitrile or neoprene gloves
of sufficient thickness to stand up to the nasty thinners.

Jon Stehn
stehn@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 19:19:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Ignition timing vs compression vs Octane

Hello fellow list members,

Can anyone please explain the relationship between Ignition timing,
Compression Ratio and octane?

I was looking through the Repair Operation manual and noticed
different ignition timings for compression ratios and octane. What I
have understood is:

1) Higher compression needs higher octane fuel or a retard in timing.
2) Lower compression allows for a higher timing when using an
equivalent octane fuel.

However, I noticed that these recommended timing seem to be generally
lower than other cars, say a Volkswagen Golf (which has higher
compression and a higher recommended ignition timing) Does bore and
stroke play a part in determining ignition timing?

Also, what are your thoughts on advancing ignition? My mechanic
recommends advancing the ignition timing as high as possible before
knocking happens. That timing seem like a quantum leap above the
recommended ignition timing. His explaination is that timing can be
increased above the recommended mark because we are using 98octane
while the manual is based on 90octane. Still I don't see why there is
such a great increase.

My personal experience with setting it like that is that the engine
feels torquey at first, but flattens out rapidly. Resulting in the
rover not able to hit a high top speed as compared to setting the
ignition slightly lower. I however have no measuring instruments to
determine this except the seat of my pants and the speedometer, and
the two settings are tested several weeks apart.

Does fuel mixture need to be adjusted if ignition is adjusted? I have
always thought that proper stoichiometry is fixed  for carburettored
engines and the mixture screw is meant to compensate for atmospheric
pressure, but I am hearing otherwise now.

In short, does anyone know of a good method to adjust timing for a
particular engine, to extract maximum efficiency?

Thanks for any thoughts, comments.

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 03:33:16 -0400
Subject: NATO Paint

Hi All,

Can someone supply me with the Federal Standard paint code for NATO green?
Or, any other paint code for a major paint supplier. Thanks.

Cheers,

Brian Cramer

'94 D90 (#1251)									
(888)434-4678 office
'90 RR County									
	(609)665-4451 office fax
'70 IIa Lightweight								
	(609)273-9708 home
'89 Range Rover (For Sale: $10,495 OBO)			(609)458-6671 cellular
'60 IIa SWB									
	 ICQ #5696173	

------------------------------

From: Francois ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:48:03 +0200
Subject: Re:  Re: 110 axels on a 109?

Hello

The axles of the 110 are designed to be used in full time 4x4, so i
wonder if they are strong enough to be used on 4x2 (for the rear axle at
least) ??

It should'nt be worth than the 88 rear axle anyway (broke it twice (the
wheel axis)) :-(

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:18:28 +1000
Subject: Lightweight for sale in Washington State

From: James Barnick <barnicjj@whitman.edu>

>Hi, my name's Carl, I was just checking out the SAS rover, pretty cool.I
>have a 68 lightweight landrover, SWB ex mod, I was wondering if you knew of
>a good place to advertize one, Ive got to sell it. IM in Walla Walla
>Washington.  Thanks

Hi Carl (with the email address of James),

The best spot to advertise it is on the Land Rover list in the USA.
If you aren't a member of the list, email the info to me and I'll post it to
the list.

Alternatively, you could join the list(s).  There are two - one for Series
Landies and the other for Coil Sprung vehicles e.g Defenders, Discoverys and
Range Rovers.

The List pages (including subscribe/unsubscribe forms) start at:
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/lro-info.html
(shadow) http://www2.Land-Rover.Team.Net/lro-info.html
Send submissions to the list to: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
To UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to: MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text: unsubscribe lro-digest
Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to: MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text: subscribe lro-digest
Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text: help

Ron

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 03:37:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Solex Air Leaks

In a message dated 25/06/98 22:05:20 BST, you write:

<< Hello
 I do not perfectly understand the problem, but I reply anyway :-) (do
 not blame all the frenchies :-)
 
 I had air problems on a solex, two kinds of problem :
 
 ** the carburettor top was not plane anymore, i mean thant by
 (over)tightening the screws whic join top and bottom it was shaped like
 this "(" instead of "|" ... it was bent . (no dictionnary near me, big
 problems to find this #'#{[ word for "carburateur déformé !")
 
 The solution is to "polish" it on a very plate and not to much abrasive
 piece of stone (the one you use to make knifes cut better ...) in order
 to plane the surface of the carburettor 
 
 ** the other problem was the fixation of the piece wich opens / closes
 the air/essence flow , which look like this -/- (more or less
 ...)(butterfly in literal translation )
 I had this repaired by chemically putting chrom (Cr chemical symbol, do
 not know the real name in english)(chromium?) on the axis
 
 The next time i will make a drawing instead of searching words for every
 sentence :-)
  >>
Francois,
your mail was understandable and a lot better than my French would have been!
 Le carbeurettor et malade etc etc !!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 04:14:05 EDT
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

In a message dated 26/06/98 01:05:25 BST, you write:

<< < Given that I am on a very tight budget (my Mini needs a lot of work doing
  to it), how much of a long term solution is priming the chassis with zinc
  primer and slapping a load of paint over the top? I plan of shot blasting
  the chassis anyway, but the paint route seems a lot cheaper than
  galvanising. >> >>

(smugmode) I've lashed out on a galvanised chassis (smugmode off) but I've
recently been helping a mate with a rebuild.
He uses Comma Stoprust (red lead) everywhere.
 I've been cleaning up some of his bits (ooer) Schultz, layers of paint etc to
repaint and underneath everything, even after a go with the wire brush on the
drill, is the Stoprust.
 I've always been a fan of Hammerite but it isn't happy over paint or clean
metal and it takes six weeks to cure off properly.
 I'm now going over to the Comma, can be painted over after one hour.......
and it lasts.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

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