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From: Charles Wolfe <cwolfe@d.umn.edu> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:23:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Double clutching One thing I have found. To help putting in first or reverse from dead stop without any gears clanging . . . Depress clutch, slip into third then either first or reverse. No double clutch needed. It works, why I don't know. cwolfe owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com wrote: > are proudly sponsored by the > Empire Rover Owners Society > "Serving the Great State of New York, the Empire State, > and former British Colonials, everywhere !" > Tired of Too Much E-mail ? -- Go Wired ! read this digest daily at [ truncated by list-digester (was 1343 lines)] > understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net > -B ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------D42830A405263886CAA022D8" ] From: Charles Wolfe <cwolfe@d.umn.edu> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:48:15 -0500 Subject: Yikes!!! SO SORRY!!! I have just awarded myself the "major jerk award" for not realizing that I replied to the digest and included the digest message in my reply. A thousand apologies. I have had some major computer glitch this week that make any rover repair seem like a walk in the park. After major loading, deleting and reloading, my browser software had the default configuration and I was not aware that I was includeing message. Cwolfe Sun Dog Kennels Alborn, MN --------------D42830A405263886CAA022D8 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: asfco <asfco@banet.net> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:06:04 -0400 Subject: Re: GB50LR operating this weekend.... Matt Wilson wrote of a special event Ham station in the UK.... Good idea here for the upcoming rally in Cortland, NY as well.../ any interest ??? 73 de WA2GMC ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:08:08 -0400 Subject: Re: GB50LR operating this weekend.... Re: Special event station: More to the point, does anyone have anything other than 2m/440 in a Rover? aj"Not me!"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LEBLANC_CJ </DD.XMRROUTE=Leblanc#l#u#r#Cj#l#a#r#AM#l#a#r#I22005/@csc-scc.x400.gc.ca> Date: 24 Jun 1998 12:21:58 +0000 Subject: RE: COLD GALVANIZING Thanks for all the responses on cold galvanizing. The verdict is in, hot dipping is the way to go. I'll still be dropping in on buddy, I'm kind of curious. My e-mail address is scary but it's free. You might want to try CHARLES.LEBLANC@ATL.csc-scc.csc-scc.X400.gc.ca still scary, still free but shorter. Thanks again Charles 69 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:58:15 +0100 Subject: How do I undo the dog nut/ Engine Noises Thank you to all with advice on the above. I have now undone the dog nut and brut force was the winning method. I have also located the source of the clanking noise. The chain guide had been completely ripped apart by the timing chain, the securing bolts are no where to be found. I have purchased new a chain, sprockets, the guide and gasket. As the old chain and sprockets look OK I wonder what caused the guide to come off. Any Ideas Martin Lough Frank W Murphy Ltd. U.K. Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext 245) Fax: +44 1722 410088 email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk Visit Our Website at http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk martin@fwmurphy.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 09:58:31 -0400 Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut/ Engine Noises Re: Buggered chain guide: Sounds like the tensioner may not be doing its job real well - if the chain is loose enough to flap, it could easily destroy the pad, or knock it loose. Make sure the detent is working right, and that the sliding bit of the tensioner is OK and doing its job. ALso, make sure the valving is OK in the tensioner base, and is not clogged - same goes for the block port that is feeding oil to it. Did the pad have the proper lock tabs on the bolts? ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 10:04:28 EDT Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut/ Engine Noises In a message dated 6/24/98 9:58:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, martin@fwmurphy.co.uk writes: << Thank you to all with advice on the above. I have now undone the dog nut and brut force was the winning method. >> Do tell, what brute force method did you employ? Spanner on frame with starter assist, long pipe with pounding (body or sledge hammer) or power tool of some sort? Just curious Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 08:22:50 -0500 Subject: Re: shop manuel 91 RR Sorry, I dont work in a "shop" Cant help you with the Rangie. Try a Manual. At 07:38 PM 6/23/98 +0000, you wrote: > have been e-mailed about finding a shop manuel for a 1991 Range Rover. I >though. I digress, George has asked about finding this manuel if anyone can LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ Departamento Legal - JCCCSA lgutierr@jccr.co.cr lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Wed, 24 Jun 98 10:35:46 EST Subject: Re: I think I found my build order sheet... I was so exited! I was poking around the car this morning, and I saw this crumpled up sheet of pink paper, so I contorted my arm and strained to pull it out. The factory line build order! Wooohoooo, there are all the specs and instructions... wow! How did it get where it did? Gee, those blokes at Solihull must be too lazy to find a trashcan near the assembly line... pat wrote: >>Colour: 456 White-Alpine/Savarin (what's Savarin?) Was a brand of canned coffee that I remember mom having around when I was a wee lad. What color is the interior? DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 16:02:09 +0100 Subject: Re: I think I found my build order sheet... >I was so exited! I was poking around the car this morning, and I saw this >crumpled up sheet of pink paper, so I contorted my arm and strained to pull >it out. >The factory line build order! Wooohoooo, there are all the specs and >instructions... wow! How did it get where it did? Gee, those blokes at >Solihull must be too lazy to find a trashcan near the assembly line... Probably like the the BR/Railtrack stations: Can't have bins, 'cos the IRA (,etc) like to blow them up for fun... I doubt they'd realise it, but disrupting the Land Rover production line might be comparable to hitting the British Army's "Ruhr Valley" Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Wed, 24 Jun 98 11:57:33 EST Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut >The pulley dog nut on my 88 SWB will not undo I have a "Snap-On" 5 foot >quarter inch drive on one and eleven sixteenth socket on the nut...snip > I given all my strength to undo the nut but the it will not move. Any >suggestions or any one experienced the same problem you did undo the locktab, eh? daveb ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: russw@lycosmail.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 12:34:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: felony theft or just good business practice? > charge for replacing two swivel ball seals, in writing > parts $140 > labor $820 >> > Sounds like a scam. A scam? Sounds more like a prison rape to me!!! What are they charging, $200/hr for labor?? You should know what the posted labor rate is at the dealer, then if you get a bill like this you should go directly to your local attorney.. Might be worth having a States Attorney look into ther They would probably be very interested in an $820 labor bill for a job that should take 3hrs tops. I know that folks from LRNA snoop around here from time to time I'd just love to hear what they have to say about this.... you out there LRNA??? Maybe a direct E-Mail to them with a request for a written explination is in order. Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 13:20:52 -0400 Subject: Undo that dog "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> wrote: >Martin, if you cant undo the crankshaft nut you have a couple of choices, a >torque multiplier or a slugging spanner ( wrench for the USA ) i.e, a >spanner that can be struck by a hammer. Indeed, I've found that a good "shock" to the dog beats the steady pressure bar. When I fitted a capstan winch, I put an appropriate six-point wrench on it and whacked it with the 3 pound lump hammer. First shot, it came undone. (The fact that I had hosed it with penetrating oil for a week prior might have helped, tho') Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "LEPRINCE Didier" <leprince@outremer.com> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 13:50:20 -0400 Subject: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity) The cold measure temperature (W) is -17,8° Celsius = 0° Fahrenheit The warm (normal) measure temperature is 98,9° Celsius = 210° Fahrenheit For the swiwels, it depends the temperature they will reach. If you want to take the best profit of your multigrade 80 W 140 oil, you have to reach the 210° Fahrenheit temperature !. The best way to get that is to put no oil at all ...... -:) More seriously I think a heavy monograde is better for that. Ci après quelques sites interessants . Bibliographie Propulsion et moteur marin J.L. PALLAS E.T.A.I. Huiles et Lubrifiants : comment choisir son huile Loisirs nautiques H.S. : moteurs marins http://www.yondar.com/yondar/course.htm http://www.aeroad.com/carfix/2page3.htm http://www/vtr.org/maintain/oil-synthetics.htm http://www/vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.htm http://www.geocities.com../MotorCity/2195/engineoil_bible.htm http://www.geocities.com../MotorCity/2195/snakeoil.htm http://www.softcom.com.au/4WD/A.hints/Oil.htm http://www.stretcher.com/stories/970609d.htm http://www.stretcher.com/stories/961209c.htm http://www.directcon.net/mmason/oil.htm D LEPRINCE ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:06:28 EDT Subject: Re: Re: I think I found my build order sheet... In a message dated 6/24/98 10:44:34 AM, you wrote: >>>Colour: 456 White-Alpine/Savarin (what's Savarin?) >Was a brand of canned coffee that I remember mom having around when I was a wee lad. >What color is the interior? The interior is cloth, LR calls it Moorland (as seen in BLRS ads in LROI)... maybe Savarin was the guy who painted it since Jones was out sick... --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Bas <9318860@law-fs3.leidenuniv.nl> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:22:11 +0200 Subject: Fwd: amp.meter shaking This is a forwarded message From: Jos de Vries <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl Hi all, my current meter (Ampere) is shaking violently while the engine is running for a week now. It's stable on preheating my diesel engine I have found no explanation in Hayes, so the next questions to the list: - wat is going on, is the meter broken or some coil ? - is it harmfull for the battery ? - what to do about it ? regards, Jos de Vries 109 D '71 SW SANTANA 88 '75 ex-MOD ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 98 13:28:02 -0700 Subject: BP's deal of the day - 6/24/98 -comercial content This has commercial content. If you do not want to read it. please delete now I just checked out British Pacific's deal of the day. They have 2 new Rover rear axle shafts plus the fixings for US $80. Since these things do crystallize and can leave people in a world of hurt if they break in the field I thought I would pass this on. I get nothing out of this. I just thought it seemed inexpensive for US sourced new axles so I would pass it on in case someone was thinking of picking up a set as spares or to replace their old ones before they broke. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create beauty wherever you go. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:08:07 +0200 Subject: Re: LRO Does anyone know how to subscribe to LRO in Denmark? Is it worth the read - how much series coverage is there? Or is it mainly promo articles for the Coilers, Discos and Freeloaders? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:31:07 +1000 Subject: grease in front swivel housings as soon as there is any sign of leakage through the front swivel seals I have always replaced the grease with a 50-50 grease/90wt mixture it doesn't leak out but stays sloppy enough to not just stick to the inside of the outer edge when the axle spins (like pure grease does) and thus keeps the uni or cv lubricated CVs came in with the stage one (constant 4wd) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:29:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Fwd: amp.meter shaking I think the brushes in the generator might be going bad - this can make the alternator work partly, or not work at all. The reason it acts steady when the glow plugs are on is that they are pulling electricity from the battery - this is an even strain, so the meter moves smoothly. If the generator or its regulator is going bad the needle may shake, or not move at all. Have your friend have the generator tested at a garage - they can tell if it is OK. Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frankelson@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:01:41 EDT Subject: Re: Undo that dog two of you wrote: >>a slugging spanner ( wrench for the USA ) i.e, a >spanner that can be struck by a hammer. Indeed, I've found that a good "shock" to the dog beats the steady pressure bar. When I fitted a capstan winch, I put an appropriate six-point wrench on it and whacked it with the 3 pound lump hammer. << Hence the expression in the UK (hi Bill) 'cracking off' a really tight nut. Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|”_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 "(o)======(o)" ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frankelson@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:01:57 EDT Subject: Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity) In a message dated 24/06/98 18:56:32 BST, you write: << For the swiwels, it depends the temperature they will reach. If you want to take the best profit of your multigrade 80 W 140 oil, you have to reach the 210° Fahrenheit temperature !. >> Erm... I was sure that I was taught that automotive oil 'breaks down' or ceases to be of any use at something really low like 100 degree C...... Have I thought wrong all these years? Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|”_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 "(o)======(o)" ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 16:11:49 -0700 Subject: RE: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity) Frank writes: << For the swiwels, it depends the temperature they will reach. If you want to take the best profit of your multigrade 80 W 140 oil, you have to reach the 210° Fahrenheit temperature !. >> Erm... I was sure that I was taught that automotive oil 'breaks down' or ceases to be of any use at something really low like 100 degree C...... Have I thought wrong all these years? Best Cheers Frank Well, 100 deg. C = 212 deg. F so he's still safe...but not by much! Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:24:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity) >Erm... I was sure that I was taught that automotive oil 'breaks down' or >ceases to be of any use at something really low like 100 degree C...... >Have I thought wrong all these years? No, Frank, your not wrong, but we wont tell anyone! :-) LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ Departamento Legal - JCCCSA lgutierr@jccr.co.cr lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@sympatico.ca> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:33:24 -0700 Subject: Looking For......... Trying to get Ed Bear on the phone, to no avail. His phone # is disconnected ( 1-207-243-2943 ) Anyone got a new #? How 'bout an e-mail address?? Thanks muchly!! Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:34:13 -0500 Subject: 109 IIA rear brake adjusters Well, I found out why my brakes suck. The rear brakes weren't adjusted well. Went to adjust them and it seem that they can't adjust. The cammed adjuster looks OK but it lies right against the brake back plate without any sort of spacer. So when the adjuster turns it does not make contact with the peg on the shoe. Is there supposed to bew a spacer between the cammed adjuster? How much distance should there be between the adjuster cam and the backing plate? cwolfe ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:33:21 -0400 Subject: OVLR B-day - the story continues More fun in the sun. The weekend was far from over after the morning auction, where J. Berg's synopsis left off. Tom Tollefson and Team Daphne out of Toronto were keen to do the heavy off-roading so passed the word after the auction that departure was eminent. Our ranks quickly swelled and ten or so Land Rovers (and one honkin Unimog) set off down the road for the hydro line. Upon arrival Ben Smith took the lead, crossed a shallow stream, and slowly began picking his way between and over the rocks as he climbed up the first hill. No real drama here and everyone easily followed. A hundred metres or so farther on and we came to a rather steep decent into a gully with a short steep climb out the other side. This was followed be a nice mucky boggy section. Tom went first in his 101, handling the gully with ease but became mired in the bog. He easily extracted himself then continued on across a dry section and into another boggy bit. With a full head of steam, he drove right through this one and then climbed to higher ground. I followed in my 88 and when I reached the first bog, I stayed farther right, up against the trees, and easily made it through. I was so happy with my accomplishment that I totally forgot about the second bog and putt putted to a stop right in the middle of it, stuck fast. Tom winched me out and I continued on. Ben came through next and shot straight through. He was followed by Dave Bobeck. Unfortunately, Dave's 88 slipped into Tom's ruts and that was it for him and the winch was called into service once again. As the rest followed, most getting through without help, Ben and Mark Newman pushed on finding the trail ahead. One by one we each followed, up and down a couple more hills till we reached the next bog. This one was going to be a lot tougher to get across and was the spot where the group had to give up two years ago. The area was very muddy and the grass growing in the bog was about three feet high. When I got there, Ben was already mired in the mud and Mark was winching him back out. I was fairly sure we wouldn't be getting through here this year either. Tom arrived, had a quick look at Ben's tracks, jumped back in the 101, and gunned into the mess. He got twice as far as Ben but hung up on a buried log. He was going to winch himself forward but realized we would be here till late in the evening trying to get everyone through (there was still one more major bog to cross before reaching the road) and most of us still had long drives home, so we decided to admit defeat again this year and turn back. Ben positioned himself to pull Tom out but his winched packed up on him and Mark had to stand in. Our convoy now reversed itself and retraced our tracks back. Everyone was getting through the sticky bits with out problem, including Quintin Aspin and Andrew Finlayson in their Series I's who made it look so easy. I followed Bill Rice in his 109 through and naturally got myself stuck. Doh! As Dave Lowe, in his Lightweight, was pulling me back out, I looked ahead up the hill and saw Bill's 109 flopped over on it's side. It was the ol' left rear tire goes up a bump as the right front drops into a hole deal, but with the help of ten or so hardy souls, the vehicle was righted again within seconds and there appeared to be no damage. It all happened so fast I don't think anyone even got pictures. While some continued to play on the rocks for a while, the rest of us headed back to camp to pack up. When we got back we found Christine Rose and her gang had a fine lunch of roast beast sandwiches waiting for us, a most welcome surprise. It was a great weekend and we all had a great time. Thanks to all at OVLR for all the effort making this the most excellent Birthday Party. See ya all next year. Brett ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Wed, 24 Jun 98 21:57:43 -0700 Subject: Re: 109 IIA rear brake adjusters >Well, I found out why my brakes suck. The rear brakes weren't adjusted >well. Went to adjust them and it seem that they can't adjust. ' >The cammed adjuster looks OK but it lies right against the brake back >plate without any sort of spacer. So when the adjuster turns it does >not make contact with the peg on the shoe. ' The snail sticks out a little ways from the back plate It is at the end of a short post. I do not have a dimension, but it is not against the backplate. Any chance that they have been pushed down the post? TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Ari Myllyla <Ari.Myllyla@stone.fi> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:11:46 +0300 Subject: LockRight locker for LR Salisbury axle? Does anyone know is LockRight locker available for Land-Rover 109" Salisbury diff (4.7:1) . And if it is where to get one from UK? Any good URL's? Ari Myllylä e-mail:arim@stone.fi ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:31:32 +0100 Subject: Timing chain Refitting The Haynes manual makes this sound a real doddle, but it isn't. The fey on the side of the crankshaft is causing me problems. I am trying to fit a new sprocket but the fit is very tight so I have tried heating the cog which allowed me to put the cog on the shaft but as soon as I had the cog being cooled by the shaft would not go any further. Using a piece of large radius pipe I have hammered it further down. But now the first key on the crankshaft is popping out. Any suggestions on a better method of reassemble Martin Lough Frank W Murphy Ltd. U.K. Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext 245) Fax: +44 1722 410088 email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk Visit Our Website at http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk martin@fwmurphy.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk> Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:24:43 +0100 Subject: Land rover Shopping I have purchased all my parts from http://lr.merseyworld.com/ they send everything overnight and they are dead cheap Martin Lough Frank W Murphy Ltd. U.K. Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext 245) Fax: +44 1722 410088 email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk Visit Our Website at http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk martin@fwmurphy.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 06:38:54 -0400 Subject: Re: 109 IIA rear brake adjusters If the pins aren't touching then you most likely have the shoes on the wrong sides (front to back). The shoes are handed - and oftentimes folk get them mixed up. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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