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From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:42:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: UK LandRover shopping?

Can anyone advise me of some LandRover merchants in the Surrey area..
I'm looking to bring back a 109 Station wagon or MoD and some parts.

Thanks

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, USA, 04655
207-255-4036

------------------------------

From: ps4330@okc01.jccbi.gov (Peter Schauss x 2014)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:43:02 -0400
Subject: Overseas shipping and importing

Anyone have any experience with shipping a car from Europe to 
the US East Coast (New York area, preferably)?  I am looking for
recommendations for a shipper and customs broker to import a vehicle.

Thanks,
Peter Schauss, Long Island, NY
ps4330@okc01.jccbi.gov
schauss@worldnet.att.net
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:45:00 -0400
Subject: Double Declutching

TeriAnn's explanation of double (de)clutching is good but actually there is
no need to DC on upshifts. The object of the exercise is to match the speeds
of the various shafts,  gears and splines before engaging the next ratio. On
upshifts the natural slowing of the components after the clutch is depressed
matches the speeds of input and output so only a single clutch depression is
required. On downshifts the clutch is engaged in nuetral and the engine
revved to spin up the input gears to match the speed of the outputs.
Experience will soon teach you the timing of each shift sequence and the
amount of increased engine speed for downshifts. The amount varies according
to the conditions prevailing for each shift. For example more revs are
needed for a downshift from high speed to use engine braking approaching a
corner than are needed for a downshift to second as you roll to a stop prior
to starting again from stop or slow speed. The syncromesh mechanism achieves
this speed matching by "dragging" the components to a matching speed with
the syncroniser rings.

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:54:37 -0500
Subject: Changing wiring harness

Chris Stevens:

Do not try to salvage your old wiring.

Authentic wiring harnesses are cheap, compared to the alternatives.

Run, do not walk, to British Wiring and get yourself a new wiring harness.

If the existing wiring is as bad as you say, your Land Rover is a rolling
fire hazard. Baby's rewire job took many more than two days, but that was
because I fiddled a lot.

By all means, be sure that you get solder connectors only. Crimped
connectors are a recipe for future disasters. Buy a good soldering iron
(not a mere gun), and get extra bullet connectors, with extra
rubber-covered thingamajigs.

You will be amazed at the electrical parts you never knew existed.

    _____
___(_____)   Baby gets 1368.13 furlongs per firkin of gasoline.
|Baby the\
|1969 Land\_===__
|  ___Rover   ___|o
|_/ . \______/ . ||  Any knowledge is a subset of archaeology.
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:44:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Overseas shipping and importing

> Anyone have any experience with shipping a car from Europe to 
> the US East Coast (New York area, preferably)?  I am looking for
> recommendations for a shipper and customs broker to import a vehicle.

No, but I just bought a rover from IndyRover (http://www.indyrover.com),
and there's something on his homepage about importing cars for a flat
rate cause he does it all the time and has connections. Try calling 
Nathan at (317) 334-0584.

-Scott

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:56:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut

On Tue, 23 Jun 1998, Martin Lough wrote:

> The pulley dog nut on my 88 SWB will not undo I have a "Snap-On" 5 foot 
> quarter inch drive on one and eleven sixteenth socket on the nut. The sump 
> is off and the webbing of the big ends are jammed with a piece of 4X2 
> wooden block. I given all my strength  to undo the nut but the it will not 
> move. Any suggestions or any one experienced the same problem

At moments like this, I get out my old crash helmet & goggles, and go
to work:

First of all, you need a wrench that fits the starter dog. Forget
sockets and drivers, they'll break. Fit the wrench to the starter dog.
Rest end against frame on the left side of the engine. (that is the right
side if you look at the engine from the front. Turn the enginge so that
the end of the wrench rests a few milimetres off the frame. Remove
the ignition coil wire. 

Make sure noone is nearby, don the crash helmet and goggles, and operate the
starter for a second or so. Usually does the trick. If this procedure
causes the wrench to rotate 180 degrees before hitting the frame, you've
rested the wrench against the frame on the wrong side of the engine :-)

This is a last resort solution, but it is very effective.
Stand well clear in case the wrench falls off or shatters...
Be careful and you'll be OK.

Terje Krogdahl
Member of the Insane Mechanics guild
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:41:39 -0400
Subject: Differential needed

Hi
Does anyone who will be at Lanham (LRNA Open House) next weekend have a
Rover rear differential (including crown wheel and pinion) for a series IIa
for sale?

Thanks
Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:55:48 EDT
Subject: Re: manuel

And I thought the Dash 1 was a military parachute!!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Will.Pittman@firstunion.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:13:55 -0400

SUBSCRIBE D90 WILL.PITTMAN@FIRSTUNION.COM

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:26:58 EDT
Subject: Re: NATO Green paint source

Shipping paint as a parcel internationally, requires a Dangerous Goods
Declaration, as it is a RFL (Restricted - Flammable Liquid), and the package
will have to be inspected for proper packaging/markings, by whomever moves it
from point A, to point B. Don't worry - they don't open the can of paint, they
just make sure that it is what everybody says it is, and that it won't pop
open too easily onboard an aircraft. (this is where ValuJet, and the oxygen
generator shipper, both goofed up - see what can happen?) Paint however, isn't
a problem.

To my knowledge, there isn't any more of a charge for this, than any other
package, and as far as IATA regulations (the international governing body for
air carriers) are concerned, there shouldn't be any.

Charles

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:43:46 EDT
Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut

In a message dated 6/23/98 4:10:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
martin@fwmurphy.co.uk writes:

<< The pulley dog nut on my 88 SWB will not undo I have a "Snap-On" 5 foot 
 quarter inch drive on one and eleven sixteenth socket on the nut. The sump 
 is off and the webbing of the big ends are jammed with a piece of 4X2 
 wooden block. I given all my strength  to undo the nut but the it will not 
 move. Any suggestions or any one experienced the same problem >>

I needed an 6 foot piece of pipe and had to throw myself on the end a few
times to get it to budge.  You might try heating it up first.

Nate

------------------------------

From: russw@lycosmail.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 10:56:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: How do I undo the dog nut

First, you must be very friendly with the dog....  
Heat and a bigger wrench should do the trick for you.  Try some penetrating oil 
and a good whack with the wrench, then let it sit. Give the penetrating oil 
time to work. Then, hit it with the big guns...(Heat).  I had to use all of 
this plus my 
friend standing on a section of pipe to get the thing off of my engine.  

Good luck.

Russ and the Pig
Leslie and the stationary Series III

Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:48:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Double Declutching

If you ever get the chance, watch ( or more importantly listen) to some
of the old film footage of the European grand prix races from the '40's
& '50's.  Those drivers were masters of the double clutch.  You can hear
a distinctive throttle blip during every downshift before the corners
(usually followed by a big puff of blue smoke on the overrun -
especially from the Ferrari's).

Paul in Victoria

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 98 09:31:39 -0700
Subject: Re: UK LandRover shopping?

>Can anyone advise me of some LandRover merchants in the Surrey area..
>I'm looking to bring back a 109 Station wagon or MoD and some parts.

Try sending an e-mail to Richard Brownlee in Surey UK.

He helps people locate used Land Rovers and parts in the UK.  He has the 
experience to inspect the car and provide a report of its condition.

He has helped me get parts when I visited the UK and he located a 
Dormobile for Walt Swain.

101360.3273@compuserve.com

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:06:38 -0400
Subject: RE: UK LandRover shopping?

Or...
I know someone who's importing a 109 3 door this Friday in Hampton
Roads.  I believe he's asking $8k.
If interested in details, type at me privately and I'll hook you 2 up.

John Tackley
Richmond, VA 
'70 IIA 88
'74 III 88

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:42:07
Subject: Re: Double Declutching

Mine really needs to be double clutched on the up shift (1st to 2nd) if I
want to shift with any speed.  If I have enough momentum to wait while the
engine slows to idle, then I can shift without double clutching.  Even with
double clutching, a fast shift up to 2nd results in a grind.  More power to
you if yours will up shift without a double clutch, mine won't.
Aloha Peter

At 07:45 AM 6/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>TeriAnn's explanation of double (de)clutching is good but actually there is
>no need to DC on upshifts. The object of the exercise is to match the speeds
>of the various shafts,  gears and splines before engaging the next ratio. On
>upshifts the natural slowing of the components after the clutch is depressed
>matches the speeds of input and output so only a single clutch depression is
>required. On downshifts the clutch is engaged in nuetral and the engine
>revved to spin up the input gears to match the speed of the outputs.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>this speed matching by "dragging" the components to a matching speed with
>the syncroniser rings.

------------------------------

From: "Fred Herman" <hfherman@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:44:44 PDT
Subject: felony theft or just good business practice?

Several days ago my neighbor had an eye-opening experience with Land 
Rover Alexandria (Virginia) and I thought it would be interesting for 
group comments.  She took her 95 Disco in for routine service and in 
adition to the service the tech told her that one of the swivel ball 
seals was leaking and should be replaced.  Also, since one seal was 
leaking, she should replace both.  When I checked the seal, it looked 
more like proper exterior lubrication than a leak (but what can you 
expect from a series driver).  Now for the subject of this E-mail.  The 
charge for replacing two swivel ball seals, in writing

parts   $140
labor   $820

It might be good to be the king, but it is better to be an LR dealer.

Fred Herman 69 109 SW

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:03:45 EDT
Subject: Re:  felony theft or just good business practice?

In a message dated 6/23/98 2:47:17 PM, you wrote:

[snip]
>When I checked the seal, it looked 
more like proper exterior lubrication than a leak (but what can you 
expect from a series driver).  Now for the subject of this E-mail.  The 
charge for replacing two swivel ball seals, in writing

parts   $140
>labor   $820
[snip]

BT,DT*... Never again. FWIW, LRNA has been getting lots of "leaking swivel"
complaints on Discos and I heard (y'know, grapevine talk) that they (LRNA)
have developed a grease/thick-oil that they then put in to stop the "leak". I
myself have a weeper on one side, but it isn't a leak per se. As pointed out
above, it merely keeps things oiled down there. Plus, I usually have to change
the swivel oil before enough leaks out for it to become a concern.

*I've had to pay $200ish for parts (ack!) and $700ish for labor, enough to
make me choke. It was for the rear brakes which dissapeared during a x-country
road trip. They billed me for wheel cylinders, drums, etc., but two months
later, I took the wheels off to clean muck from under the body and discovered
the same ol' drums on there! That promptly ended the already tenuous
relationship with that dealer.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:06:53 EDT
Subject: Re: felony theft or just good business practice?

In a message dated 6/23/98 2:47:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hfherman@hotmail.com writes:

<< Now for the subject of this E-mail.  The 
 charge for replacing two swivel ball seals, in writing
 
 parts   $140
 labor   $820 >>

Sounds like a scam.  Might be worth having a States Attorney look into whether
there are others have been taken by this cheesy trick.  (In Oregon, there was
a dealer years ago who got caught doing the same sort of thing except with
steamcleaning engines-charged $200 to  do it.)

Nate

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:05:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Double Declutching

It has been standard practice for any non-syncro transmission to be double
clutched down and UP since 1865ish. This still applies to older vehicles,
cars, trucks and tractors with non syncro gears.
Failing to double clutch while shifting up increases the wear on the gears
and clutch.
Everyone has an opinion and a choice........double clutching was standard
practice up until the 50's - check both foreign or domestic car owners
manuals for the "good old years"
Just be glad that it is only double clutching and that you do not have to
manually adjust the timing as you accelerate!

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.5 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:11:20 EDT
Subject: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

I'm not an expert, and something I saw recently makes me wonder...

The higher the number, the thicker the oil, right?

SAE 4 (like water)
SAE 20 (thicker)
SAE 40 (thicker still)
SAE  90  (even thicker than that)

Right so far?

And when there are two numbers as in SAE20W50, that means that the oil (at
room temperature) has the properties of 50 wt, but flows like 20 wt.? Is that
right? It has the properties of the second #, but the thickness of the first
#?

Which brings me to my puzzlement:

A LRNA mechanic posted on some B.B. (RN or BB),that when they first started
getting leaky swivels in, they went from 90wt (straight) to 80W140 wt oil, to
try to prevent the leaks, the theory being that 140 wt is thicker than 90 and
will have a harder time getting past the seals... but doesn't the 80 make it
*thinner* than 90wt.?

I could be all wrong.

Anyway, I guess they aren't putting any oil in anymore since they went to that
grease/oil/pasty thing. Myself, i'll stick with the oil and changing it often.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:21:48 EDT
Subject: Re: felony theft or just good business practice?

Funny you guys should mention this....

I just bought the '89 Range Rover, that I had mentioned that I was looking at.
I had it inspected at Hornburg Land Rover / Jaguar last Tuesday, and guess
what - they said that the right swivel seal was leaking!

I crawled under the truck just the other day to change the oil, and check
things out for myself, and I can find no leak!

They also claimed that the valve cover gaskets are "seeping"...so far, I can
find nothing. The ONLY thing they were on the level with, as far as really
needing service, was the fact that the rear pads are almost gone.

Charles
1962 109 diesel
1958 88 petrol
1989 Range Rover regular

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:23:59 EDT
Subject: I think I found my build order sheet...

I was so exited! I was poking around the car this morning, and I saw this
crumpled up sheet of pink paper, so I contorted my arm and strained to pull it
out.

The factory line build order! Wooohoooo, there are all the specs and
instructions... wow! How did it get where it did? Gee, those blokes at
Solihull must be too lazy to find a trashcan near the assembly line...

Interesting points:

Colour:  		456  White-Alpine/Savarin     (what's Savarin?)
X.BT042		14 PLATE WET V8 BMS			(what's a 14 plate wet, 
anyone recognize that?
or BMS?)

So, I know some series owners have found their build orders, but how about D-
owners? Anyone else find theirs?

Now I have to go put all the little screws back.

--pat.

Own a Land Rover. It will never cease to surprise you.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 12:27:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

O.K..  back to my Petro Canada gas pump jockey days...

The first number is the thickness (viscosity) at winter temperatures.
Not sure *what* temperature exactly - anybody?
The second number indicates the thickness that the oil acquires when the
engine reaches operating temperatures.
The W stands for winter.  i.e.  20Winter50  was the way I was taught to
say it.  When the oil is cold and you start the engine, the oil behaves
like a thin 20 weight and oozes every place that it should.  As the
engine gets hot, 20 weight would be too thin, but this oil has polymers
that make it thicken to the equivalent of a 50 weight as temperature
increases...

These same polymers produce a bad side effect of forming waxy deposits
inside the engine.  The bigger the spread of numbers, the more polymers
are needed so it is best to use the closest set of numbers that you can
get away with in a given climate.  Most high performance shops recommend
single grade (i.e. 30W) oil because it has no polymers to gum everything
up.

This knowledge is 10+ years old so please correct me if I got something
wrong :-0

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 16:12:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

In a message dated 23/06/98 20:16:56 BST, you write:

 Anyway, I guess they aren't putting any oil in anymore since they went to
that
 grease/oil/pasty thing. Myself, i'll stick with the oil and changing it
often.
  >>
Pat,
 my brain is spinning over the oil numbers game but: 
In the UK for many years we have put forward the idea of pumping the swivels
full of grease as a better idea than oil.
 Land Rover have always put down the idea, no can do, mustn't, naughty
children, do as you are told.
 Now Land Rover have launched their own grease, complete with part number -
for replacing the oil in swivel housings.......

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Eric Zipkin <ericzip@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 16:16:24 -0400
Subject: Tyres for an 80"

Any thoughts on where to find 7.00x16 tyres for an 80" for a decent price
in the northeast U.S.?  I'm being quoted almost $100 per tyre (with tubes)
by the specialty people for U.S. military non-directional tyres.  That's a
hell of a lot for a bias-ply tyre.

Please respond to me directly as I'm not getting the list right now.

Rgds,
Eric

Eric Zipkin
Bedford, NY  USA 

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 16:24:32 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

In a message dated 6/23/98 4:15:03 PM, you wrote:

> my brain is spinning over the oil numbers game but: 
In the UK for many years we have put forward the idea of pumping the swivels
full of grease as a better idea than oil.
Land Rover have always put down the idea, no can do, mustn't, naughty
children, do as you are told.
Now Land Rover have launched their own grease, complete with part number -
>for replacing the oil in swivel housings....

Late LR's have CV joint in the swivels right? Well, every other car I've owned
with CV joints has had them packed with grease. Porsche & VW used a black
goopy grease, but the CVs were enclosed in a rubber boot.

In LR's defense, I think oil is better to have in there than grease, just
because it is easily drained out after fording when water may have entered,
and if it is grease in there, the water may get trapped by grease that doesn't
drain out. But I've never used grease (in a LR)... so I really wouldn't know.

Frank, does your 110 have grease in the swivels? How do you drain them to
change? Or do you just have a zerk you pump up full of grease until the
correct color oozes out of somewhere? 

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:47:52 -0700
Subject: Oh no, another oil vs grease thread!

Don't newer Land Rovers have CV joints in the swivels  VS the old
U-Joints of Series vehicles?

Might this make a difference as to the oil Vs grease debate?

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:54:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

No, you got that correct - from what I remember from my days with my father
(he ran Shell then Pacific 66 service stations for 24 years).

I think (but do not know for sure) that the two "test" temperatures were 40
degrees F and 80 degrees F

So 10W30 acts like a 10 weight oil at 40F and like a 30 weight at 80F.
Most of the guys south will never have heard of the 0W20 for winter.

A bit of time has past since the last of the Pacific 66's - you are on the
right track Paul. The same goes for gear oil, I swear by the
85-140...............unless a great grease/oil hybrid comes along for my
hubs :-)

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.5 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home
wahooadv@earthlink.net

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:00:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Oh no, another oil vs grease thread!

God will have to create greassy oil and oily grease as the only way to put an 
end to the infamouse oil vs grease debate

The day will come.

At 01:47 PM 6/23/98 -0700, you wrote:

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 15:08:21 -0500
Subject: Annoying E-mail

Is everybody receiving auto reply answers form Patrick Clark to every posting 
to the list???
Or is it just me??
LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
Departamento Legal - JCCCSA
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:21:05 EDT
Subject: Re:  Annoying E-mail

In a message dated 6/23/98 5:12:41 PM, you wrote:

>Is everybody receiving auto reply answers form Patrick Clark to every posting
to
>the list???
>Or is it just me??

I *was*, but not anymore, someone must have done something, or maybe his
mailer only sends one reply per address that hits it, then no more...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:30:11 EDT
Subject: Re:  Oh no, another oil vs grease thread! -Not really...

In a message dated 6/23/98 4:49:58 PM, you wrote:

>Don't newer Land Rovers have CV joints in the swivels  VS the old
>U-Joints of Series vehicles?

>Might this make a difference as to the oil Vs grease debate?

Yeah, newer (not sure about old RRs) LRs do have CVs inside the swivels. Maybe
it came along with the coil axles?

WRT the oil/grease thing that happened a while back, I stuck my head in the
proverbial sand.

These LRs with oil in the CV'd swivels have some grease in the hubs somewhere
too(put in the wheel bearings). 

I change the oil in the swivels regularly. It makes a funny sight when I have
the front wheels off and a neighbor asks "So, what are you doing to it now???"
and I say "Oh, just another oil change..." and they say: "Those britih cars
are odd, you have to take the wheels off to change the oil..."  They think I
mean *engine oil*...  little do they know that I have at least 7 oil drains
and fills to do... makes it almost worth it to recycle the oil instead of
illegally dumping it in the Everglades... ;-)

--pat

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:40:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Oh no, another oil vs grease thread! -Not really...

In a message dated 6/23/98 5:32:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SPYDERS@aol.com
writes:

<< Yeah, newer (not sure about old RRs) LRs do have CVs inside the swivels.
Maybe
 it came along with the coil axles? >>

I think it is a result of full time 4wd

Nate

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 17:46:57 EDT
Subject: Why I was poking around the LR...

I was poking around behind the dash today (plain ol' dash, no Dash-1, -8
etc.)...

I was trying unsuccessfully to remove it so I could determine: 

A) what was actually in there, 
B) If I could mount a radio in the middle 
C) Why the heater only blew air out the top (de-fogger) and down the bottom
(foot-toasters) but not out the middle vents (chest warmers)... basically how
the diverter flaps work (or don't as is the case)

Anyway, after removing a zillion little black phillips screws...

A) lotsa stuff, wires, relays, including build order sheet
B) can't mount radio in the dash
C) Found out why it was acting funny... because it is a Land Rover...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: LEBLANC_CJ 
</DD.XMRROUTE=Leblanc#l#u#r#Cj#l#a#r#AM#l#a#r#I22005/@csc-scc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 23 Jun 1998 16:09:27 +0000
Subject: COLD GALVANIZING

Howdy all

Has anybody ever heard of a product/service called "Zinga Cold
Galvanizing System"? It is sprayed on, I believe, no hot dipping here. 
The finish is apparently a smooth, flat, light gray. Buddy who sells the
stuff/service says it should be covered with a clear coat or something??
Says hot dipping leaves a rough leafy ?? finish.
Any comments or experience with this stuff or procedure?     
I'm going to drop in and see him next week to check the stuff out.

Charles LeBlanc (en français s.v.p.)
We don't need no stinking recessed headlights.
69 bugeye owner
96 XCR 600 (The winter thing)
CHARLES.LEBLANC.@ATL.csc-scc.csc-scc.X400.gc.ca 

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 23 Jun 98 12:13:50 MST
Subject: Excellent (positive) D90 report.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
For an excellent writeup on the D90, see this www page.

     http://www.magicnet.net/~joeg/turbo_mag/d90.html

The author liked it so much, he bought one!

Best regards, Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
 away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:11:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil weight & thickness (viscosity)

In a message dated 23/06/98 21:30:57 BST, you write:

 Frank, does your 110 have grease in the swivels? How do you drain them to
 change? Or do you just have a zerk you pump up full of grease until the
 correct color oozes out of somewhere? 
  >>
My 110 doesn't have grease in - yet. However, like all my Land Rovers/Range
Rovers when it starts to leak oil I will fill it with grease - and a horrible,
messy job it is as well.
However, after wading, it drains out easily enough after a drive 'round the
block.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:11:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Oh no, another oil vs grease thread!

In a message dated 23/06/98 22:04:44 BST, you write:

 God will have to create greassy oil and oily grease as the only way to put an
end to the infamouse oil vs grease debate
  >>

Luis Manuel,
yes, although I am involved in these postings it is amazing how often and for
how many years this one has 'slipped' into conversations in pubs, on the
trail, on the internet........
 You've got to admit, it is a 'sticky' one though.....:-)>

BTW it certainly wasn't God who invented oil or grease, according to my wife
who washes my clothes it was the other feller, in the hot place
downstairs........

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:11:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Oh no, another oil vs grease thread! -Not really...

In a message dated 23/06/98 22:32:20 BST, you write:

<<  take the wheels off to change the oil..."  They think I
 mean *engine oil*...  little do they know that I have at least 7 oil drains
 and fills to do... makes it almost worth it to recycle the oil instead of
 illegally dumping it in the Everglades... ;-) >>

In the cold cold frozen North of the English Pennines we burn old oil (again
quite illegally) via an old beer barrel some copper pipe and a stove built out
of a gas bottle. That's in the barn where we work on our motors of course.....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:14:29 EDT
Subject: Re:  COLD GALVANIZING

Whoa... what an e-mail address:
</DD.XMRROUTE=Leblanc#l#u#r#Cj#l#a#r#AM#l#a#r#I22005/@csc-scc.x400.gc.ca> You
get a medal for that one. Must be a Canadian attempt to confuse invading
southerners...

Anyway your message was along the lines of:

>Has anybody ever heard of a product/service called "Zinga Cold
Galvanizing System"? It is sprayed on, I believe, no hot dipping here. 
The finish is apparently a smooth, flat, light gray. Buddy who sells the
stuff/service says it should be covered with a clear coat or something??
>Says hot dipping leaves a rough leafy ?? finish.

I used it on some steel fan housings. I will try to never use it again unless
I am forced to. It isn't anywhere as durable as the hot dipping, and doesn't
give you that great "I'm related to your metal trash-can" look... (IMHO)

I've found that it scratches easily, and even after being recoated, it still
comes off (I think it doesn't harden like two-parts, and whatever is put on
over it, just takes the top layer off as it doesn't really stick to itself as
well as something meant to be a "protective layer")

I guess it has a use as a temporary application, but I do not think it
replaces hot-dip. It may be useful to some who have no access to, or the
budget for, hot-dip galvanizing. It is worth doing it in hot-dip. 

To put it a different way; least favorite process: spray/cold galvanizing
zinc, next-to-least favorite: powder-coating, best liked: proper galvanizing.

.02

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:18:41 EDT
Subject: stick-on thermometers

I was doing a pre-fright inspection and one of the items to be checked is a
transmission temperature sticker.

I have been looking at these little things for so long, but it never dawned on
me to stick some on the LR; to finally figure out just how hot that x-fer
case, floor, etc. gets.

Anyway, these things are little stickers with squares that turn black at
certain temperatures, their name is Telatemp. (kinda obvious, huh?)  If you
have no clue what I'm talking about here's a wwwsite:  www.telatemp.com (and
this isn't spam, eh)

Anyone use these? I guess I could get a few to try from the mechanic who does
the 100 Hour inspections. 

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 18:19:15 EDT
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

In a message dated 23/06/98 22:57:56 BST, you write:

 Has anybody ever heard of a product/service called "Zinga Cold
 Galvanizing System"? It is sprayed on, I believe, no hot dipping here. 
 The finish is apparently a smooth, flat, light gray. Buddy who sells the
 stuff/service says it should be covered with a clear coat or something??
 Says hot dipping leaves a rough leafy ?? finish.
 Any comments or experience with this stuff or procedure?     
 I'm going to drop in and see him next week to check the stuff out. >>

Bonsoir Charles,
in the UK we have Zinc spraying which leaves a flat gold finish and is cheaper
than hot galvanising, although not by much. It is very durable.
 Please post your feelings about the Zinga after you've seen the man - and an
address if you feel it is of use.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 19:38:13
Subject: shop manuel 91 RR

 have been e-mailed about finding a shop manuel for a 1991 Range Rover. I
am at the moment only a SERIES Roverite, a classic RR is in our future
though. I digress, George has asked about finding this manuel if anyone can
help I would really appreciate it.
      His e-mail address is <seamang@cpmail-nz.cis.columbia.edu> 

I will of course keep looking myself, but those of you on the coil spring
digest will most likley already know where and how much.

Thanks again

Jim Wolf sec. R.O.A.V.

------------------------------

From: ARTuro500@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 20:27:02 EDT
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 21:42:26 -0400
Subject: Crankshaft nut

Martin, if you cant undo the crankshaft nut you have a couple of choices, a
torque multiplier or a slugging spanner ( wrench for the USA ) i.e, a
spanner that can be struck by a hammer.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 21:44:12 -0400
Subject: undo the dog nut

Martin, just noted your signature, is it Murphy the construction company ?
If so I am sure that there are a few navvies who could undo the dog for you !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2098 20:47:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Overseas shipping and importing

Here's my story.

I worked in the UK for a few years and picked up my 66 SIIA there.  I drove
it to Southampton, and it cost me $750 drive-on-drive-off.

I used an importer in Newark.  What a scumbag he was.  His name was William
P. Skinner.  He tells me it's going to be $200 to do my paperwork and have
the vehicle for me.  (This is over the phone from the UK).

I arrive to pick up the vehicle and call him.  He says it's $350.  (extra
"paperwork").  (This guy does importing every day, and can't get a simple
import of a 25 year old vehicle right???)  Yes, all my fault for not getting
it in writing and being a trusting person.  Anyway, I argue with him and get
it down to $300 in cash, get my paperwork and leave his slimy office (2
floors above Customs).

I find out that I could have picked up my vehicle for the duty ($90), plus
another $10 or so in fees from Customs.  It would have been that easy.

Pick up the vehicle, (deal with the grumpy dockworkers) and don't notice til
later, but I have a broken taillight.  I could care less.  I just wanted to
get as far away from Newark as possible.

If you live near the port, and can have someone ship it from the other side,
by all means do the importing yourself.  It is EASY for a 25+ year old
vehicle.  If I were to do it again, I'd skip the importer and do it myself.

Rgds,
Vel

------------------------------

From: GcdoAK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 22:43:57 EDT
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

Hi,
  I have used cold galvinising out of a spray can before on a U.S. Coast Guard
motor lifeboat.  Used it on the bitts (the things you wrap the rope around,
for you non-nautical types).  The stuff worked pretty well.  With three to
five coats it would last at least a year with constant salt water spray
exposure.  This was usually put on over an etching zinc oxide primer.  This
stuff is soft though.  On our tow bitt, the zinc would wear off on just one
tow (several hours usually).  I would say that it is good in a low friction
environment.

Jon Stehn
stehn@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 09:13:44 +0100
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

 COLD GALVANIZING
I am having my bulkhead "Cold" galvanized. In A process they call 
"schoeperen" over here. Tiny droplets of 250 degrees centigrade are 
"Hammered " in by sandblasting equipment. It is the next best thing 
after hot dipping. It leaves a slightly porous zinc surface which 
must immediately  be covered with paint or primer.  The whole process, 
sandblasting, zinc spraying and a layer of epoxy primer costs 35 Us$ 
or Dfl 70,-
It is what they do to ships before painting over here. (When I asked 
a posh  classic car restorer he said it is what they considered for 
"very" precious cars only, he said he would handle the job for Dfl 
1000,-, so I went to a small Sandblasting/spraying company)
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 03:51:35 EDT
Subject: Re: COLD GALVANIZING

In a message dated 24/06/98 04:11:41 BST, you write:

<<  Used it on the bitts (the things you wrap the rope around,
 for you non-nautical types). >>

No, they're called 'necks' - or have I missed the point :-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 23:29:52
Subject: Re: shop manual 91 RR

There's a Manuel in Costa Rica but no manuel for the range rover on this
list.  Try a manual, its easier to read.

At 07:38 PM 6/23/98, you wrote:
> have been e-mailed about finding a shop manuel for a 1991 Range Rover. I
>am at the moment only a SERIES Roverite, a classic RR is in our future
>though. I digress, George has asked about finding this manuel if anyone can
>help I would really appreciate it.
>      His e-mail address is <seamang@cpmail-nz.cis.columbia.edu> 
>I will of course keep looking myself, but those of you on the coil spring
>digest will most likley already know where and how much.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Thanks again
>Jim Wolf sec. R.O.A.V.

------------------------------

From: Matt Wilson <GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 10:48:06 +0100
Subject: GB50LR operating this weekend....

A reminder that this weekend (27th - 28th June) at the Shugborough 
Hall Land-Rover Series I Club 50th anniversary event a Radio Amateur
Special events station with the callsign GB50LR will be operating at 
various times during the weekend on all H.F. bands, 2m, S.S.B. and 
FM.  

You'll just have to listen for the C.Q. over the weekend, but that's 
going to be part of the fun!  Shugborough Hall is located approx. 
30 KM North of Birmingham, England (OS grid reference SJ9922).

Packet Radio messages for GB50LR can also be sent over the
weekend via B.B.S. GB7RUG. (GB50LR@GB7RUG.#28.GBR.EU)

All contacts made throughout the weekend will receive a 
commemorative GB50LR QSL card.

Testing on the Friday while the station is set up will use 
the callsign GB5LR. Any licensed amateurs attending the 
Shugborough event are invited to help out running the station 
during the weekend.

Good luck and safe journey to all who are attending the show,
and we hope to hear all the 'hams on the air over the weekend.

- Matt Wilson  
- GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk

# All things dull & ugly,         
# All creatures short & squat,
# All things rude & nasty,
# The Lord God made the lot.

------------------------------

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