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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 09:19:37 EDT
Subject: Re: beware Empire Staters

In a message dated 21/06/98 10:12:53 BST, you write:

 ^^Bronze Green rools!!!
 
 Oh dear, the green is NATO so my LR sucks ;-(
  >>

Now, now, don't be too upset.
Of course you are totally and completely wrong but:
1. Nato Green is second best to Bronze Green.
2. You will, of course, start saving up for 2 litres of Bronze Green and a
paintbrush.
3. You are not driving a Frod, Toyhotter, etc etc
4. While it is still purple and Nato, you can drive around with a skimask
covering your face.

see, It just takes a positive attitude. I bet you feel better already:-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: russw@lycosmail.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 10:34:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re[3]: humor?

> Now if I can just get others to spell my name correctly 8*)  ;*)  8^)
> Terri, Terry, Teri, TerriAnn, Teri-Anne, TeriAnne... Well from whomever

It could be worse you know.  Atleast folks don't call you   "That T & A  girl"  
Some people could get the wrong idea about you. ;)

In the words of Groucho Marx...   
"You can call me whatever you like, just don't call me late for dinner"

Russ and the Pig
Leslie and the still staitionary Series III

Get free personalized email at http://email.lycos.com

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 16:08:15 +0100
Subject: Re: beware Empire Staters

>In a message dated 21/06/98 10:12:53 BST, you write:
><< ^^Nothing, so long as the purple half is underneath.
> ^^Bronze Green rools!!!

I'm thinking of painting my 101 kinda bright orange...

Is this getting into steam-pipe territory?

(i.e. either the owner, the vehicle, or both need a good seeing to with a
length of said steam-pipe)

Micky
(NATO green 101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: "Micky Cormack" <Micky101@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 16:10:55 +0100
Subject: Re: H

>>>On Wed, 17 Jun 1998 Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
>'
>>> H
>'
>>Then David Scheidt wrote:
>'
>>He

>the TeriAnn Wakeman wrote

>Hel

...

Help(?)

Micky
(101 in bits)

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 12:06:19
Subject: Gaiters

Hi All, I got my ex-military rubber?..gaiters from P.A. Blanchard in the
UK. He advertises in the Mags. LRO and LRW.
You do have to separate the swivels to install, but they are worth it if
you are rebuilding them anyway. They come with the seal ring moulded into
the piece. They look very tuff.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 13:33:40 EDT
Subject: colours (was Re: beware Empire Staters)

In a message dated 21/06/98 16:17:07 BST, you write:

<< I'm thinking of painting my 101 kinda bright orange...
 
 Is this getting into steam-pipe territory? >>

yes

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 13:33:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H

In a message dated 21/06/98 16:17:53 BST, you write:

<< Help(?) >>

Got it!
The full message reads:  'This bloke wants to paint a 101 orange, can you
"help'' me locate a piece of steam pipe?'

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 19:32:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Gaiters

Anyony got a num,ber or e-mail address for P.A. Blanchard or the rubber
gaiter fame?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 13:38:56 -0400
Subject: RE: colours (was Re: beware Empire Staters)

<< I'm thinking of painting my 101 kinda bright orange...
 Is this getting into steam-pipe territory? >>
:: yes

But at least it'll be easy to find you.

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 13:59:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Gaiters

In a message dated 21/06/98 18:39:05 BST, you write:

 Anyony got a num,ber or e-mail address for P.A. Blanchard or the rubber
 gaiter fame? >>
P.A. Blanchard & Co,
Clay Lane, Shiptonthorpe, York
Y04 3RU

Tel: 0430 872765
Fax: 0430 872777

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 23:41:17 +0100
Subject:        HELP- Land ROver exchange won't leave me alone!!

Hello Charles

I have the same problem as you regarding these automated message's 
from land rover exchange. Also tried emailing lrx, Bill wood., 
Baunced a hundred back, nothing seems to help. If you eventually get 
into contact with him, please inform us.

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 18:14:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Can't get back to 2WD

I've recently began driving my S2a again after several months inactivity. She
seemed to be running fine but perhaps a bit noisy. Today, I'm embarrassed to
say that I discovered the reason for the noise. I've evidently been in 4WD for
the past 2 weeks!
When I jacked her up on blocks to remove the wheels for repainting, I thought
I'd run her through the gears to see how everything looked/sounded. Lo and
behold the front wheels were turning. Tried shifting from high range to
neutral and back, high to neutral to low and back to high, fiddling with the
4WD (yellow) knob, nothing worked. Front wheels still turning. The 4WD lever
has a lot of play in it. Anyone have any suggestions? 

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 18:18:18 -0400
Subject: Diesel storage

Francois writes :- what would be the goot operation to do before stocking a
diesel for a
long time ? empty the pump, or fill it with vaseline or anything ??

 In the aviation industry they use a product called "inhibiting oil" to put
in the fuel systems of jet engines when they are to be stored for long
periods, I used it for priming my spare pumps and injectors to keep them in
good condition.  It is a very light oil which contains no water. This stuff
was readily available to me when I worked in the aircraft industry but I do
not know where you would buy it now. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 18:30:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Diesel storage

In a message dated 21/06/98 23:17:54 BST, you write:

<< n the aviation industry they use a product called "inhibiting oil" to put
 in the fuel systems of jet engines when they are to be stored for long
 periods, I used it for priming my spare pumps and injectors to keep them in
 good condition.  It is a very light oil which contains no water. This stuff
 was readily available to me when I worked in the aircraft industry but I do
 not know where you would buy it now.  >>

I've come across it many years ago and it sort of reminded me - in use - of
WD40/Duck Oil. You can get  Duck Oil in 5 litre containers in the UK which
works out as a lot less cash than the little spray tins.
Could it be the same, Bill, or at least do the same job??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110
            "(o)======(o)"

------------------------------

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 23:51:15 +0200
Subject: RE: Has anyone seen my little spring

> You know that spring thingy that goes between the swivel
> wotsit and the
> speedo tingamagig on the gizmo that sits on the engine side of the
>firewall

Oh is that what it's name.

> Am I the only one that does this? It will probably turn up
> when the job

I've probably got a whole LR in my garage - hiding in pieces in places I've
never thought to look. They are probably socialising with the crucial tools
that went the same way. :-)

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU

------------------------------

From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 21:13:28 -0500
Subject: Loose metal bits in the real differential

I've just performed a routine oil change for the rear diff on my 64lla 88,
with I presume a Rover differential, and along with the oil out comes a
metal pin - about one inch long and slightly bent at one end.

The rear diff has been fine for the three years I've owned the vehicle.

I assume this a spindle pin, cost $2.35 in the Rovers North catalogue.  I
also assume that it is important.

Questions rush to my mind:
1.Can I drive the vehicle in it's current state
2. have I correctly identified the broken part
3. can I replace it myself?
4.Looking at the workshop manual it seems that I need to strip down the
entire diff to get to it...

Thanks in anticipation

David Hope

------------------------------

From: PScales <pscales@blvl.igs.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 22:47:48
Subject: Silver Lake party - v.good!

The Ottawa Valley Land Rover (OVLR) birthday party this weekend was my
first LR event, and it was good family fun!  I didn't have a Land Rover
there, so I hitched a ride to the Trials with Russel from New York.  The
trials were very good, and gave us all (especially the new drivers!!) a
good appreciation of how well a LR will climb, descend and turn.

Beautiful location, about an hour from Kingston, Ontario.

My thanks to the organizers!

Peter
Trenton, Ont.

------------------------------

From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 00:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: what to take with you........TW

Don't mean to be rude, but how in the h*** do you get all that into a
"small" ammo box, or did I miss something somewhere?
Smitty
---TeriAnn Wakeman  wrote:
 I just copied this from my web site.  There is a LOT more stuff there

 Tool kit
 You will need a dry place to keep the tools so they will not rust. I
use 
 a small ammo box.
 * Socket set - I have a three eighths socket set with both shallow and 
 deep sockets, long and short extensions, short and long ratchets,
breaker 
 bar, and torque wrench. In addition, I carry a front hub socket.
 * Screw drivers - An assortment of slot and Phillips screwdrivers
 * Vice Grips and crescent wrenches - I bring one large and one small
of 
 each.
 *  Combination wrenches - I bring a set from 3/8" to 1-1/8 " including 
 second 1/2" and 9/16 " combination wrenches with a different length 
 handle from the set.
 * Pliers - one gas pliers, one long slip jaw pliers and one long nose 
 pliers.
 * Cutters and strippers - One large diagonal cutter, one crimper and
one 
 wire stripper.
 * Continuity tester
 * Clip lead with alligator clips on both ends
 *  Hammer
 * Short crowbar
 * Punches and chisels - A small assortment
 * Drop cloth - I use a 5X7 plastic tarp. You can lay on it or use it
as a 
 rain  cover while working on the car
 * Files - A set of jewelers files or a very small sharp angle file for 
 refilling  threads. A flat and a round file.
 * Feeler gauges
 *  Light - A battery powered light that you can work by.
 Consumables
 * RTV - I use the blue RTV that comes in the silver tube.
 * Shop towels
 * Insulated wire - About 10 to 20 feet insulated wire #12 AWG
 * Electrical tape
 * Brake fluid - DOT4
 * 90 wt oil and pump
 * Engine oil
 * Bailing Wire - About one three wire bale's worth
 * Sandpaper - one sheet of fine sand paper for cleaning electrical 
 connections.
 * Fuses - a spare box
 * Bolts - You can't carry every size and length. Just take a stab of
at 
 least two each of what seems like common sizes to you. Get fine thread 
 grade 8 bolts. Be sure to fit a nut, lock and flat washer to each bolt.

------------------------------

From: Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 10:03:24 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Check your nuts (was: Rolled series vehicle)

Neil Brownlee wrote:
> When I picked up my Series III (1974 88" Hard Top), one of the rear
> wheels came off while I was turning a corner - not the nicest experience

I'm sure this should go in a FAQ somewhere.

Here is an extract from a note I wrote last year:

: 10-JUN-1997 11:31:11.22
:> ... the local tyre place couldn't shift the overtightened bolts ...
:
: I didn't see any replies on this, but  
: *** beware these nuts, they are notorious for untightening. ***
: I have seen a Landrover kneeling on its brake drum on a roundabout after the 
: wheel had given a passing pedestrian an unpleasant surprise.
: 
: Check 'em for tightness once a month (or more frequently...) 

Maybe the shaking of the wheel as it struggles to leave the vehicle is masked 
by 
the general judders and shakes of a Series LR ? 

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 10:07:56 +0100
Subject: Engine Noises

A definite source of the problem has now been found..While replacing the 
front main bearing I noticed a piece of metal under the timing chain. This 
has been identified as the timing chain guide which under normal 
circumstances is bolted opposite the tensioner. I has been ripped apart by 
the chain. I shall replace it and the chain, sprockets bolts. The only 
problem I have now is removing the pulley dog nut from the crankshaft. I 
have spent the whole of my Sunday trying to remove it with about as much 
luck as the USA V. IRAN in the soccer match yesterday.

Martin Lough
Frank W Murphy Ltd. U.K.
Tel: +44 1722 410055 (Ext 245)
Fax: +44 1722 410088
email: martin@fwmurphy.co.uk
Visit Our Website at http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk

martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "VRIES DE J.W." <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:08:36 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: test (ignore)

------------------------------

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