L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 William S Kowalski [702515Re--OVLR trip--fuel cans
2 William S Kowalski [702517Re-Galvanizing places in Chi?
3 SPYDERS@aol.com 8Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...
4 bud lane [blane@janics.c12Oil Filter for RR
5 Paul Wakefield - Serco [26re: Knocking engine ....
6 Paul Wakefield - Serco [22Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...
7 Lodelane@aol.com 15Re: 35 amp Fuse substitution + SPOT column
8 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o29Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...
9 Norman Lewis [norm@kpco.15Re: Series I Club 50th Anniversary Meet
10 "Mark L. Freeman" [baker22 Needed: Source for Lusas Starter Brushes, Springs
11 "Art Bitterman" [artbitt55Alternator/Beluga Black
12 David Scheidt [david@inf28Re: Needed: Source for Lusas Starter Brushes, Springs
13 Scott Wilson [scott@scra11RE: Alternator/Beluga Black
14 Lenny Warren [lwarren@ze19Judge Dredd photo...
15 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml17RE: New brake system SIII
16 Terje Krogdahl [tekr@nex30Re: Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...
17 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o21Re[4]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...
18 CAPTPAYNE@aol.com 22Re: LR fraud warning
19 "brian ..." [brdelab@hot28Re: Ticking
20 NADdMD@aol.com 18Re: Ticking
21 Adrian Redmond [channel622Re: New brake system SIII
22 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l16Re: Ticking
23 john cranfield [john.cra19Re: Ticking
24 SPYDERS@aol.com 16Re: Dormobiles : thanks for the reponse+question
25 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.34Dormie rims ???
26 Lawrence Lee [lawrencele28Re: Ticking
27 chrisste@clark.net (Chri20Re: Ticking
28 "d.h.lowe" [dhlowe@idire22V.8. Piston rings
29 slade@imagina.com (Micha29Re: LR fraud warning
30 CIrvin1258@aol.com 27Re: V.8. Piston rings
31 "The Becketts" [hillman@16Converting to -ve earth
32 "The Becketts" [hillman@16Converting to -ve earth
33 "The Becketts" [hillman@16Converting to -ve earth
34 pisia25@glenelly.cs.qub.57Lead Generation - postal, email & tel - your prospects
35 Kathleen Hollington [kho24Fusebox for IIa? (sequel)
36 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l12Re: Fusebox for IIa? (sequel)
37 Kathleen Hollington [kho26IIa body re-install - tips?


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From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:20:10 -0400
Subject: Re--OVLR trip--fuel cans

I've never had a problem, besides I'm assuming you have fuel in your L-R
tank, no difference, see you there.

Bill Kowalski
Chicago, Illinois

Leaving Thursday am, with fuel, no smokes--

'67L-R IIA 109" 

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From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:26:57 -0400
Subject: Re-Galvanizing places in Chi?

Vel: Suggest you have everything you need galvanized done at one. Most
places have a minimum price per lot. They just wire it all together and do
it. Just about everything on a L-R will be done at once for a minimum lot
price. I had my stuff done at Brightly Galvanising in Cicero, on Cicero
Avenue.  Normal disclaimers---

Good Luck

Bill Kowalski
Hinsdale, Illinois
'67 L-R IIA 109"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:45:17 EDT
Subject: Re:  Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

Check for a bent tie rod, drag link or track rod... The wheels may be pointing
out and wanting to pul the front end left and right simultaneously...

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From: bud lane <blane@janics.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 06:58:51 -0500
Subject: Oil Filter for RR

Have been using OEM oil  filter since I purchased my '89 RR 18 months ago. 
 Is there an acceptable substitute, or should I stick with the real thing. 
 Also, since some of the oil tends to "go away" between changes, what is 
the consensus on synthetics?  Thanks for  the input.

Bud Lane

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From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:11:16 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: Knocking engine ....

Martin Lough wrote
: loud knocking noise was present from the engine
ngine
: 1. Combustion spacer fallen into piston
: 2. Big end bearings
: 3. Broken crank shaft
: I have removed the head pistons and main bearings. So far I have no idea 
: What is going on?

Your sump pan isn't dented (upwards) is it ;-)
Little end bearings, thrust washer, camshaft, tappets ?

You're pretty limited now you have torn down the engine this far .....

I still suspect the Big-end or Main bearings, have you tried squishing the 
plastigage to check the clearances ?

Cheers,

Paul.

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From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:18:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

Jon Dunster wrote:
: The symptoms:
: Pulls to the left.  Needs positive pressure towards right to keep in a
: straight line.  When the wheel is centralised a bad shake occurs.

Huub Suggests:
:: Check wheel alignment, you may have bend something under there,
:: Also check for play in the steering system and wheel bearings,

Yes, all good suggestions, add steering box, all steering ball joints, steering 
damper, steering geometry (caster/camber as well as tracking), swivel pin 
bearings.

Good Luck,

Paul.

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:06:55 EDT
Subject: Re: 35 amp Fuse substitution + SPOT column

I always liked the one about the two guys in Arkansas out catfishing.  Started
home and blew a fuse.  The driver substituted a live .22 caliber cartridge.
Some miles down the road, the cartridge overheated, fired, and lodged in one
of his testicles.  Subject testicles had to be removed later at the hospital.
The wife's only concern was what happened to the catfish in the back of the
pickup truck.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 98 10:43:47 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

Jon Dunster wrote:
: The symptoms:
: Pulls to the left.  Needs positive pressure towards right to keep in a 
: straight line.  When the wheel is centralised a bad shake occurs.

Huub Suggests:
:: Check wheel alignment, you may have bend something under there, 
:: Also check for play in the steering system and wheel bearings,

paul adds
>Yes, all good suggestions, add steering box, all steering ball joints, steering
>damper, steering geometry (caster/camber as well as tracking), swivel pin 
>bearings.

you are all right, but you are forgetting the most important thing and that is  
if this has been going on for a while than merely correcting the fault may not 
make the symptom go away, because of the wear pattern on the tire. After making 
sure EVERYTHING is in order, try either rotating the tires or fitting new ones 
if they are all worn. To check before buying new ones, you can also temprarily 
fit the tires and wheels off of your neighbors LR...

later
Dave

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From: Norman Lewis <norm@kpco.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:23:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Series I Club 50th Anniversary Meet

I will be travelling to England next week to attend the Series I Club
50th Anniversary gathering at Shugborough.  Is anyone else on this list
from the US or Canada planning to attend?  Also, I would like to know if
anyone has a container shipment in the works for the near future.  Reply
direct if you can.

Thanks,

Norm Lewis

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From: "Mark L. Freeman" <baker@iland.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:32:54 -0500
Subject:  Needed: Source for Lusas  Starter Brushes, Springs
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Does anyone have a good US source for Lucas replacement parts such as =
brushes, brush holders and bearings?

Thanks,

Mark Freeman
Sedalia, Missouri

1974 88 petrol
1975 109 hybrid
1997 Disco

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From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:44:01 -0600
Subject: Alternator/Beluga Black
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi All!

Two weeks ago I upgraded my Lucas Alternator with a 63 amp Delco. Last =
Friday I lost the fan belt (figured it was because the belt was too =
loose as I hadn't made the right size tensioning bracket yet. Made the =
right size bracket, installed old belt I had laying around, fired up =
"The Beast" and the ignition light would flicker on and off like turn =
signals, also with the smell of rubber burning (HUH? I thought!!).  =
Looked in the engine bay, and the alternator was stopping and =
running,stopping and running.And the belt and pulley were HOT! Thought =
that the old belt was worn too much and slipping-changed belt-same =
thing!

Tore apart the setup yesterday and noticed that the alternator sticks =
forward of water pump and crankshaft pulleys by about 1/4". That much =
misalignment shouldn't matter should it? I found marks on the alt. fan =
where the belt had been rubbing, adjusted fan with BFH-belt has =
clearance now!  The alternator turns freely and theres no end play on =
shaft. Are the bearings shot causing the stop and go action? It's a Napa =
rebuilt unit, still in garantee. I have the old Lucas unit back in, so I =
running, but miss not having the luxury of being able to run heater, =
lights and wipers at the same time without the voltmeter going into =
death pangs!!

Ideas????Educated guesses???? Hell, I'll even take a SWAG now-I'm =
baffled! I could remove the genuine Land Rover alternator mount and =
file/grind a 1/4" off the mounting face, but I'm not sure if the =
misalignment was the problem.

Secondly, I was reading the archives last night and the color "Beluga =
Black" was mentioned. Last time I saw a Beluga whale (mid 60's-I was up =
in Alaska and the locals would go out in boats in Cook Inlet, shoot 'em =
and bring 'em back and make "Beluga Burgers" from them--Not PC now, =
but------) The whales were *White* So how did we get "Beluga *Black*"??

Inquiring mind wants to know!

Art (One week to Steamboat!!!)

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:57:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Needed: Source for Lusas  Starter Brushes, Springs

On Mon, 15 Jun 1998, Mark L. Freeman wrote:

> Does anyone have a good US source for Lucas replacement parts such as =
> brushes, brush holders and bearings?

I think that RN sells thes, probably all the parts houses do?  I have had
fairly good luck having lucas starters, generators, and alternators
rebuilt at local shops.  Generally, they have to order parts, but don't
have a problem with them. 

David

> Thanks,
> Mark Freeman
> Sedalia, Missouri
> 1974 88 petrol
> 1975 109 hybrid
> 1997 Disco

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> 1997 Disco
> 	[multipart mime alternative 29 lines deleted.]

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 13:01:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Alternator/Beluga Black

> The whales were *White* So how did we get "Beluga *Black*"??

Beluga Caviar? That's what I thought it was referring to.

-Scott

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From: Lenny Warren <lwarren@zetnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:18:29 +0100
Subject: Judge Dredd photo...

Hi there,

There's a picture of a Dredd-Shed on my web page. It was owned by a L-R
franchised dealer in Cumbria, UK.

Go to the URL below, and link to my Landy page.

Catch you later,
Lenny...

                  Lenny Warren, Strathaven, Scotland.             
                  e-mail: lwarren@zetnet.co.uk  
                  www: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/8160

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:18:28 -0700
Subject: RE: New brake system SIII

Hi Adrian,

Be prepared to shed a tear as you spill brake fluid all over you're
freshly painted bulkhead and watch the paint crinkle up and peel off...
I tried my damnedest to not spill any on my foot wells, all to no avail!
You can see the mess on a few of the pictures on my web site...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 20:07:25 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

On Mon, 15 Jun 1998 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:

> you are all right, but you are forgetting the most important thing and that 
is  
> if this has been going on for a while than merely correcting the fault may 
not 
> make the symptom go away, because of the wear pattern on the tire. After 
making 
> sure EVERYTHING is in order, try either rotating the tires or fitting new 
ones 
> if they are all worn. To check before buying new ones, you can also 
temprarily 
> fit the tires and wheels off of your neighbors LR...

Oh, and don't forget to make sure the tire pressures are OK. My right front
tyre has a small leak, giving me the exact same problem as described earlier.

Don't forget to check the preload on the swivel bearings too. I've seen
coilers with severe shaking caused by too little preload.  

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 98 14:49:06 EST
Subject: Re[4]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

>Oh, and don't forget to make sure the tire pressures are OK. My right front 
>tyre has a small leak, giving me the exact same problem as described 
>earlier.

so? put it on the back :)

>Don't forget to check the preload on the swivel bearings too. I've seen 
>coilers with severe shaking caused by too little preload.  

yup. I had that for a while too. thought I could deal with it until it happened 
with passengers in the car. they didn't know wether to just laugh at me or get 
out and walk...rebuilt the front axle and it went away...

later
DaveB

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From: CAPTPAYNE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 15:12:20 EDT
Subject: Re: LR fraud warning

Alex,
Alas, your warning came to late.  I had an agreement to sell my D90 soft top
to a 
fellow Defender owner for $300.  I paid the $44 to ship the top to Provo,
Utah.  It has now been four months and all I have ever received are excuses.
He has changed his E-mail address and refuses to answer my calls.  I have sold
LR parts before with a gentleman's agreement to send the payment upon receipt
of the part.  Thanks to the dishonorable conduct of Clay DeGraff of Provo,
Utah (owner of 95D90 #2492); I am now forced to send all parts COD.
Perhaps some friendly persuasion from LR owners in the Utah area would help
Mr. DeGraff see the error of his ways.  His address is 145 N. 200E, Provo, UT,
84606.  His phone number is 801-373-2793.  

Deeply disappointed,
Don Payne 
94D90 #1331

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From: "brian ..." <brdelab@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:11:42 PDT
Subject: Re: Ticking

Thanks for the reply, Bill!

I just doublechecked everything last night.  The tappet clearances are 
within spec, but it is still making this ticking sound.  I checked 
around the water pump/front cover with a stethascope for any odd noises 
but found nothing out of the ordinary.  I listened to the area around 
each valve (with the cover off) and noticed that the 4 valves toward the 
back of the head seem to be a bit louder than the front ones.  During 
the cylinder head rebuild, the 2 valves above the 4th cylinder were 
burnt.  I don't think that it is the timing gear.  Someone suggested 
that maybe it could be a bad oil pump.  I listened to the area around 
the pan but could not distinguish if anything sounded wrong (could hear 
it making a pumping sort of sound from the pan.)

So, right now, I am dumbfounded.  I am going to check if any of my 
pushrods are bent.  And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost.
If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.  Thanks a Lot!!!

Brian...

St. Louis, MO
1971 IIA 88 SW "M"

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 18:10:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Ticking

In a message dated 6/15/98 5:14:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
brdelab@hotmail.com writes:

<< So, right now, I am dumbfounded.  I am going to check if any of my 
 pushrods are bent.  And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost.
 If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.  Thanks a Lot!!!
  >>

Possibly stuck tappet slides or flat spots on tappet rollers, though you may
have looked at these when the head was off.

Nate

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 01:14:15 +0200
Subject: Re: New brake system SIII

I was "thinking" of mounting the pedal outside the car, swinging the
pipes over the engine, to bleed - to avoid the problem of dripping DOT4
on my new paintwork!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:30:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Ticking

After hearing the description of all the work you did, I am inclined to
think that maybe it's something less obvious.

Can I suggest that you run the engine with the valve cover off for a few
minutes and see if you're getting oil flow to/through all the rocker arms
onto the pushrods and the like? Seems like you might have some oil flow
restriction in the rockers, causing the noise because the oil simply ain't
there....

Just a thought - ajr

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 20:35:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Ticking

Are your rockers worn at the contact patch with the valvestem. If there
is wear there you will get a false reading on the feeler gauge.
      John and Muddy
> Thanks for the reply, Bill!
> I just doublechecked everything last night.  The tappet clearances are
> within spec, but it is still making this ticking sound.  I checked
> around the water pump/front cover with a stethascope for any odd noises
> but found nothing out of the ordinary.  I listened to the area around
> each valve (with the cover off) and noticed that the 4 valves toward the
> back of the head seem to be a bit louder than the front ones.  During
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> St. Louis, MO
> 1971 IIA 88 SW "M"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:59:11 EDT
Subject: Re:  Dormobiles : thanks for the reponse+question

In a message dated 6/15/98 11:33:16 AM, you wrote:

>Has it been done with the 1 ton forward control land rover ? There
>should be more space in it no ? But it would require a non-soft top 1
>ton LR. Has it been produced (i mean the har top 1 ton forward control)

Look for a "radio-body" 101, it should have a full HT, and be a good candidate
for a camper conversion...

--pat.

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 11:29:51 +0930 (CST)
Subject: Dormie rims ???

Howdy strangers, long time no see...

was asked a question over the weekend whch stumped me, even more 
concerning I couldnt find it on the net (at least not quickly) or in any 
book I can lay my hands on.-- 

So call in the heavy artillery, the LRO cognosenti...

I was asked about the origin, and likely specifications of some landrover 
rims which appear wider and more offset than standard  (unfortunately I 
havent seen them only described).  three rivets secure the knave plate to 
the rim.

They are most recently off a Dormie, but that vehicle was extensively 
bastardised :-( so they may have been from another source.

They are stamped  FV607510.

Anyone got any clues ??  (Oh australian vehicle if that makes any difference)

BTW I vaguely recall that FV  implied military as in Fighting Vehicle
or is this just some delusion

cheers and thanks gang

Oh please Cc direct to me as I'm not on the list at present

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:09:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ticking

I had a strange ticking in my 2.6petrol when I changed my high tension
coil to a Lucas Sport Coil.

Thought that clearances, rollers, bent pushrods, timing chain
tensioner etc were causing the problem. I wasted my money replacing
good parts.

Because of the higher spark energy from the new coil, it makes a
louder ticking than before.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

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From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 23:11:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Ticking

>So, right now, I am dumbfounded.  I am going to check if any of my
>pushrods are bent.  And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost.
>If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.  Thanks a Lot!!!

Brian-

My Rover has been ticking too, but I just ignore it! Mine seems to be
coming from the fuel pump which I recently rebuilt. I know the sound--like
valves. My suggestion? Don't worry about it.

Chris Stevens
Towson, Md

1969 IIa 88" SW

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:30:02 -0400
Subject: V.8. Piston rings

Last weekend I discovered that the pistons in my 101 are not the early
type with the 2mm. thick compression rings but the later type with the
1.5mm thick. Of course I had a set of 2mm. replacement rings all ready
to install when I discovered this.I must confess to uttering enough
oaths to cause the creatures of the forest and all the birds to fall
quiet and for darkness to pass across the face of the sun. It would
appear the military rebuilders bored it out to plus 30 and used the
later pistons. The problem now is where to obtain the narrower rings in
plus 30 size. I have checked with Hastings in Canada but they do not
have these listed. The early 80`s Rangie`s I think had these rings but
Hastings evidently do not list them..Does anybody have a parts number
from a supplier.
The O.V.L.R Birthday bash will be one 101 short this coming weekend
because of this.
I am.taking the pistons to a machine shop tommorow to see about having
the ring grooves cut to accept the 2mm. type.

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From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:25:15 -0800
Subject: Re: LR fraud warning

>Alex,
>Alas, your warning came to late.  I had an agreement to sell my D90 soft top
>to a
>fellow Defender owner for $300.  I paid the $44 to ship the top to Provo,
>Utah.  It has now been four months and all I have ever received are excuses.
>He has changed his E-mail address and refuses to answer my calls.  I have sold
>LR parts before with a gentleman's agreement to send the payment upon receipt
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Don Payne
>94D90 #1331

Alex,

I'm going to Utah later in July.  E-mail me in about a month and I'll
personally stop by his place to see where your cash is.

If it's taken care of before then let me know.  If not, I'm glad to help.

Later,

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
'90 RR

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 01:57:23 EDT
Subject: Re: V.8. Piston rings

According to my Deves catalog, the application was Range Rover / Rover SD-1,
from 1977-1983, and Series 3 109, from 1981-1983 with AE piston number
18617V1, and ring thicknesses were...

#1 - 1.59
#2 - 1.59
#3 - 4.76

The Deves Piston Ring set number, is 2183, and the LIST price, is $(U.S.)
142.80.

If you call them up and ask, they'll probably have them on the shelf, since
they make 'em, and if you ask them kindly, they'll probably ship them FedEx
(also very nearby), or UPS Red Label.

They're in El Segundo, Ca. (across the street from LAX), and they can be found
at (310)-322-8484 / fax (310)-640-9854, and they're pretty nice folks.

Hope this helps.

Charles

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000
Subject: Converting to -ve earth

All,

i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical
Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth.  If you want a copy in text
format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------
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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000
Subject: Converting to -ve earth

All,

i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical
Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth.  If you want a copy in text
format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------
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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000
Subject: Converting to -ve earth

All,

i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical
Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth.  If you want a copy in text
format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------
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------------------------------
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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:38:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fusebox for IIa? (sequel)

Hi,
Thanks to those who responded to my query regarding what fusebox to buy
for my IIa restoration project.  From the responses, it seems that
going with the stock 2x35A fusebox is not the best idea due to
lack of protection etc.  I have a wiring harness from British Wiring
(when I debated building a harness vs buying one, I ended up buying
because I felt it was the best use of my time, as I have lots of other
work to do on the truck), so need to get something that is at least
compatible with that.  Any suggestions?  Someone mentioned that
fuseboxes for later-year series trucks (III?) have four fuses - would
that work?
If anyone happens to have a new or good used fusebox they would like
to part with for a reasonable price, please drop me a line.
Regards,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:39:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusebox for IIa? (sequel)

Robert,

Most of the small british iron used a 4-fuse box that's ccompatible. Just
check with a good MG or Triumph shop for it.

                    ajr

------------------------------
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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:44:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: IIa body re-install - tips?

Hi again,
I managed to get the drivetrain back into my IIa yesterday.  This
is a major milestone in my restoration project as it has never had
a drivetrain in it since I bought it.  
When I bought it, it had been fitted with a new frame, the body
was loosely fitted to it and it was stored for 5 years.  Now, I'd
like to get the body assembled properly, starting with the bulkhead,
which I had to partially disattach and jack to get the drivetrain in.
Any tips on how to go about fitting a bulkhead and body panels and
doors back on, so that it all fits together reasonably well - doors
shut properly etc.?  Is there a particular order one should go through?
Checks and balances along the way?  The PO showed me these aluminum shims 
and mentioned that they would come in handy during re-assembly.  The
manuals I have don"t cover this aspect very well.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Regards,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------
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