1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:20:10 -0400 Subject: Re--OVLR trip--fuel cans I've never had a problem, besides I'm assuming you have fuel in your L-R tank, no difference, see you there. Bill Kowalski Chicago, Illinois Leaving Thursday am, with fuel, no smokes-- '67L-R IIA 109" ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:26:57 -0400 Subject: Re-Galvanizing places in Chi? Vel: Suggest you have everything you need galvanized done at one. Most places have a minimum price per lot. They just wire it all together and do it. Just about everything on a L-R will be done at once for a minimum lot price. I had my stuff done at Brightly Galvanising in Cicero, on Cicero Avenue. Normal disclaimers--- Good Luck Bill Kowalski Hinsdale, Illinois '67 L-R IIA 109" ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:45:17 EDT Subject: Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ... Check for a bent tie rod, drag link or track rod... The wheels may be pointing out and wanting to pul the front end left and right simultaneously... ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bud lane <blane@janics.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 06:58:51 -0500 Subject: Oil Filter for RR Have been using OEM oil filter since I purchased my '89 RR 18 months ago. Is there an acceptable substitute, or should I stick with the real thing. Also, since some of the oil tends to "go away" between changes, what is the consensus on synthetics? Thanks for the input. Bud Lane ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:11:16 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: re: Knocking engine .... Martin Lough wrote : loud knocking noise was present from the engine ngine : 1. Combustion spacer fallen into piston : 2. Big end bearings : 3. Broken crank shaft : I have removed the head pistons and main bearings. So far I have no idea : What is going on? Your sump pan isn't dented (upwards) is it ;-) Little end bearings, thrust washer, camshaft, tappets ? You're pretty limited now you have torn down the engine this far ..... I still suspect the Big-end or Main bearings, have you tried squishing the plastigage to check the clearances ? Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:18:10 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ... Jon Dunster wrote: : The symptoms: : Pulls to the left. Needs positive pressure towards right to keep in a : straight line. When the wheel is centralised a bad shake occurs. Huub Suggests: :: Check wheel alignment, you may have bend something under there, :: Also check for play in the steering system and wheel bearings, Yes, all good suggestions, add steering box, all steering ball joints, steering damper, steering geometry (caster/camber as well as tracking), swivel pin bearings. Good Luck, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:06:55 EDT Subject: Re: 35 amp Fuse substitution + SPOT column I always liked the one about the two guys in Arkansas out catfishing. Started home and blew a fuse. The driver substituted a live .22 caliber cartridge. Some miles down the road, the cartridge overheated, fired, and lodged in one of his testicles. Subject testicles had to be removed later at the hospital. The wife's only concern was what happened to the catfish in the back of the pickup truck. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Mon, 15 Jun 98 10:43:47 EST Subject: Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ... Jon Dunster wrote: : The symptoms: : Pulls to the left. Needs positive pressure towards right to keep in a : straight line. When the wheel is centralised a bad shake occurs. Huub Suggests: :: Check wheel alignment, you may have bend something under there, :: Also check for play in the steering system and wheel bearings, paul adds >Yes, all good suggestions, add steering box, all steering ball joints, steering >damper, steering geometry (caster/camber as well as tracking), swivel pin >bearings. you are all right, but you are forgetting the most important thing and that is if this has been going on for a while than merely correcting the fault may not make the symptom go away, because of the wear pattern on the tire. After making sure EVERYTHING is in order, try either rotating the tires or fitting new ones if they are all worn. To check before buying new ones, you can also temprarily fit the tires and wheels off of your neighbors LR... later Dave ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Norman Lewis <norm@kpco.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:23:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Series I Club 50th Anniversary Meet I will be travelling to England next week to attend the Series I Club 50th Anniversary gathering at Shugborough. Is anyone else on this list from the US or Canada planning to attend? Also, I would like to know if anyone has a container shipment in the works for the near future. Reply direct if you can. Thanks, Norm Lewis ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "Mark L. Freeman" <baker@iland.net> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:32:54 -0500 Subject: Needed: Source for Lusas Starter Brushes, Springs charset="iso-8859-1" Does anyone have a good US source for Lucas replacement parts such as = brushes, brush holders and bearings? Thanks, Mark Freeman Sedalia, Missouri 1974 88 petrol 1975 109 hybrid 1997 Disco ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD9851.57010720 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:44:01 -0600 Subject: Alternator/Beluga Black charset="iso-8859-1" Hi All! Two weeks ago I upgraded my Lucas Alternator with a 63 amp Delco. Last = Friday I lost the fan belt (figured it was because the belt was too = loose as I hadn't made the right size tensioning bracket yet. Made the = right size bracket, installed old belt I had laying around, fired up = "The Beast" and the ignition light would flicker on and off like turn = signals, also with the smell of rubber burning (HUH? I thought!!). = Looked in the engine bay, and the alternator was stopping and = running,stopping and running.And the belt and pulley were HOT! Thought = that the old belt was worn too much and slipping-changed belt-same = thing! Tore apart the setup yesterday and noticed that the alternator sticks = forward of water pump and crankshaft pulleys by about 1/4". That much = misalignment shouldn't matter should it? I found marks on the alt. fan = where the belt had been rubbing, adjusted fan with BFH-belt has = clearance now! The alternator turns freely and theres no end play on = shaft. Are the bearings shot causing the stop and go action? It's a Napa = rebuilt unit, still in garantee. I have the old Lucas unit back in, so I = running, but miss not having the luxury of being able to run heater, = lights and wipers at the same time without the voltmeter going into = death pangs!! Ideas????Educated guesses???? Hell, I'll even take a SWAG now-I'm = baffled! I could remove the genuine Land Rover alternator mount and = file/grind a 1/4" off the mounting face, but I'm not sure if the = misalignment was the problem. Secondly, I was reading the archives last night and the color "Beluga = Black" was mentioned. Last time I saw a Beluga whale (mid 60's-I was up = in Alaska and the locals would go out in boats in Cook Inlet, shoot 'em = and bring 'em back and make "Beluga Burgers" from them--Not PC now, = but------) The whales were *White* So how did we get "Beluga *Black*"?? Inquiring mind wants to know! Art (One week to Steamboat!!!) Art Bitterman Gunsmith !960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast" Trinidad,Colorado "Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!" ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BD984A.839ABD00 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:57:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Needed: Source for Lusas Starter Brushes, Springs On Mon, 15 Jun 1998, Mark L. Freeman wrote: > Does anyone have a good US source for Lucas replacement parts such as = > brushes, brush holders and bearings? I think that RN sells thes, probably all the parts houses do? I have had fairly good luck having lucas starters, generators, and alternators rebuilt at local shops. Generally, they have to order parts, but don't have a problem with them. David > Thanks, > Mark Freeman > Sedalia, Missouri > 1974 88 petrol > 1975 109 hybrid > 1997 Disco [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > 1997 Disco > [multipart mime alternative 29 lines deleted.] ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 13:01:22 -0400 Subject: RE: Alternator/Beluga Black > The whales were *White* So how did we get "Beluga *Black*"?? Beluga Caviar? That's what I thought it was referring to. -Scott ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lenny Warren <lwarren@zetnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:18:29 +0100
Subject: Judge Dredd photo...
Hi there,
There's a picture of a Dredd-Shed on my web page. It was owned by a L-R
franchised dealer in Cumbria, UK.
Go to the URL below, and link to my Landy page.
Catch you later,
Lenny...
Lenny Warren, Strathaven, Scotland.
e-mail: lwarren@zetnet.co.uk
www: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/8160
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]From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:18:28 -0700 Subject: RE: New brake system SIII Hi Adrian, Be prepared to shed a tear as you spill brake fluid all over you're freshly painted bulkhead and watch the paint crinkle up and peel off... I tried my damnedest to not spill any on my foot wells, all to no avail! You can see the mess on a few of the pictures on my web site... Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 20:07:25 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: Re: Re[2]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ... On Mon, 15 Jun 1998 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote: > you are all right, but you are forgetting the most important thing and that is > if this has been going on for a while than merely correcting the fault may not > make the symptom go away, because of the wear pattern on the tire. After making > sure EVERYTHING is in order, try either rotating the tires or fitting new ones > if they are all worn. To check before buying new ones, you can also temprarily > fit the tires and wheels off of your neighbors LR... Oh, and don't forget to make sure the tire pressures are OK. My right front tyre has a small leak, giving me the exact same problem as described earlier. Don't forget to check the preload on the swivel bearings too. I've seen coilers with severe shaking caused by too little preload. Terje Krogdahl Norwegian Land Rover Club http://www.land.rover.no 1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Mon, 15 Jun 98 14:49:06 EST Subject: Re[4]: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ... >Oh, and don't forget to make sure the tire pressures are OK. My right front >tyre has a small leak, giving me the exact same problem as described >earlier. so? put it on the back :) >Don't forget to check the preload on the swivel bearings too. I've seen >coilers with severe shaking caused by too little preload. yup. I had that for a while too. thought I could deal with it until it happened with passengers in the car. they didn't know wether to just laugh at me or get out and walk...rebuilt the front axle and it went away... later DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CAPTPAYNE@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 15:12:20 EDT Subject: Re: LR fraud warning Alex, Alas, your warning came to late. I had an agreement to sell my D90 soft top to a fellow Defender owner for $300. I paid the $44 to ship the top to Provo, Utah. It has now been four months and all I have ever received are excuses. He has changed his E-mail address and refuses to answer my calls. I have sold LR parts before with a gentleman's agreement to send the payment upon receipt of the part. Thanks to the dishonorable conduct of Clay DeGraff of Provo, Utah (owner of 95D90 #2492); I am now forced to send all parts COD. Perhaps some friendly persuasion from LR owners in the Utah area would help Mr. DeGraff see the error of his ways. His address is 145 N. 200E, Provo, UT, 84606. His phone number is 801-373-2793. Deeply disappointed, Don Payne 94D90 #1331 ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "brian ..." <brdelab@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 14:11:42 PDT Subject: Re: Ticking Thanks for the reply, Bill! I just doublechecked everything last night. The tappet clearances are within spec, but it is still making this ticking sound. I checked around the water pump/front cover with a stethascope for any odd noises but found nothing out of the ordinary. I listened to the area around each valve (with the cover off) and noticed that the 4 valves toward the back of the head seem to be a bit louder than the front ones. During the cylinder head rebuild, the 2 valves above the 4th cylinder were burnt. I don't think that it is the timing gear. Someone suggested that maybe it could be a bad oil pump. I listened to the area around the pan but could not distinguish if anything sounded wrong (could hear it making a pumping sort of sound from the pan.) So, right now, I am dumbfounded. I am going to check if any of my pushrods are bent. And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears. Thanks a Lot!!! Brian... St. Louis, MO 1971 IIA 88 SW "M" ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 18:10:24 EDT Subject: Re: Ticking In a message dated 6/15/98 5:14:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, brdelab@hotmail.com writes: << So, right now, I am dumbfounded. I am going to check if any of my pushrods are bent. And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears. Thanks a Lot!!! >> Possibly stuck tappet slides or flat spots on tappet rollers, though you may have looked at these when the head was off. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 01:14:15 +0200 Subject: Re: New brake system SIII I was "thinking" of mounting the pedal outside the car, swinging the pipes over the engine, to bleed - to avoid the problem of dripping DOT4 on my new paintwork! Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:30:52 -0400 Subject: Re: Ticking After hearing the description of all the work you did, I am inclined to think that maybe it's something less obvious. Can I suggest that you run the engine with the valve cover off for a few minutes and see if you're getting oil flow to/through all the rocker arms onto the pushrods and the like? Seems like you might have some oil flow restriction in the rockers, causing the noise because the oil simply ain't there.... Just a thought - ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 20:35:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Ticking
Are your rockers worn at the contact patch with the valvestem. If there
is wear there you will get a false reading on the feeler gauge.
John and Muddy
> Thanks for the reply, Bill!
> I just doublechecked everything last night. The tappet clearances are
> within spec, but it is still making this ticking sound. I checked
> around the water pump/front cover with a stethascope for any odd noises
> but found nothing out of the ordinary. I listened to the area around
> each valve (with the cover off) and noticed that the 4 valves toward the
> back of the head seem to be a bit louder than the front ones. During
[ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> St. Louis, MO
> 1971 IIA 88 SW "M"
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]From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:59:11 EDT Subject: Re: Dormobiles : thanks for the reponse+question In a message dated 6/15/98 11:33:16 AM, you wrote: >Has it been done with the 1 ton forward control land rover ? There >should be more space in it no ? But it would require a non-soft top 1 >ton LR. Has it been produced (i mean the har top 1 ton forward control) Look for a "radio-body" 101, it should have a full HT, and be a good candidate for a camper conversion... --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 11:29:51 +0930 (CST) Subject: Dormie rims ??? Howdy strangers, long time no see... was asked a question over the weekend whch stumped me, even more concerning I couldnt find it on the net (at least not quickly) or in any book I can lay my hands on.-- So call in the heavy artillery, the LRO cognosenti... I was asked about the origin, and likely specifications of some landrover rims which appear wider and more offset than standard (unfortunately I havent seen them only described). three rivets secure the knave plate to the rim. They are most recently off a Dormie, but that vehicle was extensively bastardised :-( so they may have been from another source. They are stamped FV607510. Anyone got any clues ?? (Oh australian vehicle if that makes any difference) BTW I vaguely recall that FV implied military as in Fighting Vehicle or is this just some delusion cheers and thanks gang Oh please Cc direct to me as I'm not on the list at present Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:09:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Ticking I had a strange ticking in my 2.6petrol when I changed my high tension coil to a Lucas Sport Coil. Thought that clearances, rollers, bent pushrods, timing chain tensioner etc were causing the problem. I wasted my money replacing good parts. Because of the higher spark energy from the new coil, it makes a louder ticking than before. Hope this helps. Cheers == Lawrence Lee Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216 Singapore 570022 Tel: (65) 456 7815 Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l "Kerbau" A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 23:11:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Ticking >So, right now, I am dumbfounded. I am going to check if any of my >pushrods are bent. And if none of them are, I shall be truly lost. >If you have any suggestions, I am all ears. Thanks a Lot!!! Brian- My Rover has been ticking too, but I just ignore it! Mine seems to be coming from the fuel pump which I recently rebuilt. I know the sound--like valves. My suggestion? Don't worry about it. Chris Stevens Towson, Md 1969 IIa 88" SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 11:30:02 -0400 Subject: V.8. Piston rings Last weekend I discovered that the pistons in my 101 are not the early type with the 2mm. thick compression rings but the later type with the 1.5mm thick. Of course I had a set of 2mm. replacement rings all ready to install when I discovered this.I must confess to uttering enough oaths to cause the creatures of the forest and all the birds to fall quiet and for darkness to pass across the face of the sun. It would appear the military rebuilders bored it out to plus 30 and used the later pistons. The problem now is where to obtain the narrower rings in plus 30 size. I have checked with Hastings in Canada but they do not have these listed. The early 80`s Rangie`s I think had these rings but Hastings evidently do not list them..Does anybody have a parts number from a supplier. The O.V.L.R Birthday bash will be one 101 short this coming weekend because of this. I am.taking the pistons to a machine shop tommorow to see about having the ring grooves cut to accept the 2mm. type. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade) Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1998 22:25:15 -0800 Subject: Re: LR fraud warning >Alex, >Alas, your warning came to late. I had an agreement to sell my D90 soft top >to a >fellow Defender owner for $300. I paid the $44 to ship the top to Provo, >Utah. It has now been four months and all I have ever received are excuses. >He has changed his E-mail address and refuses to answer my calls. I have sold >LR parts before with a gentleman's agreement to send the payment upon receipt [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)] >Don Payne >94D90 #1331 Alex, I'm going to Utah later in July. E-mail me in about a month and I'll personally stop by his place to see where your cash is. If it's taken care of before then let me know. If not, I'm glad to help. Later, Michael Slade Portland, Oregon '90 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 01:57:23 EDT Subject: Re: V.8. Piston rings According to my Deves catalog, the application was Range Rover / Rover SD-1, from 1977-1983, and Series 3 109, from 1981-1983 with AE piston number 18617V1, and ring thicknesses were... #1 - 1.59 #2 - 1.59 #3 - 4.76 The Deves Piston Ring set number, is 2183, and the LIST price, is $(U.S.) 142.80. If you call them up and ask, they'll probably have them on the shelf, since they make 'em, and if you ask them kindly, they'll probably ship them FedEx (also very nearby), or UPS Red Label. They're in El Segundo, Ca. (across the street from LAX), and they can be found at (310)-322-8484 / fax (310)-640-9854, and they're pretty nice folks. Hope this helps. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000 Subject: Converting to -ve earth All, i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth. If you want a copy in text format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com Regards, Ron Beckett Emu Plains, Australia check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000 Subject: Converting to -ve earth All, i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth. If you want a copy in text format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com Regards, Ron Beckett Emu Plains, Australia check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:20:27 +1000 Subject: Converting to -ve earth All, i finally got around to scanning and OCRing the article from Practical Classics about converting from +ve to -ve earth. If you want a copy in text format, email me at hillman@bigpond.com Regards, Ron Beckett Emu Plains, Australia check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:38:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fusebox for IIa? (sequel) Hi, Thanks to those who responded to my query regarding what fusebox to buy for my IIa restoration project. From the responses, it seems that going with the stock 2x35A fusebox is not the best idea due to lack of protection etc. I have a wiring harness from British Wiring (when I debated building a harness vs buying one, I ended up buying because I felt it was the best use of my time, as I have lots of other work to do on the truck), so need to get something that is at least compatible with that. Any suggestions? Someone mentioned that fuseboxes for later-year series trucks (III?) have four fuses - would that work? If anyone happens to have a new or good used fusebox they would like to part with for a reasonable price, please drop me a line. Regards, --Robert -- Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying) ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:39:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusebox for IIa? (sequel)
Robert,
Most of the small british iron used a 4-fuse box that's ccompatible. Just
check with a good MG or Triumph shop for it.
ajr
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]From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 06:44:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: IIa body re-install - tips? Hi again, I managed to get the drivetrain back into my IIa yesterday. This is a major milestone in my restoration project as it has never had a drivetrain in it since I bought it. When I bought it, it had been fitted with a new frame, the body was loosely fitted to it and it was stored for 5 years. Now, I'd like to get the body assembled properly, starting with the bulkhead, which I had to partially disattach and jack to get the drivetrain in. Any tips on how to go about fitting a bulkhead and body panels and doors back on, so that it all fits together reasonably well - doors shut properly etc.? Is there a particular order one should go through? Checks and balances along the way? The PO showed me these aluminum shims and mentioned that they would come in handy during re-assembly. The manuals I have don"t cover this aspect very well. Thanks in advance for your help. Regards, --Robert -- Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying) ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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