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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 09:13:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Gaiters

Francois ADAMS wrote:
> I don't understand exactly what gaiters are. Is it a sort of "bag" to
> put on the balls of the front  hub to protect them ? If yes, is it
> efficient, in what material are they built, and is it a genuine land
> rover part ??
> Thanks

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Peter> sand and didn't seem to have harmed the swivel balls.  So I vote
> Peter> for gaiters - but suggest cleaning them out now and again.

Gaiters are leather (or sometimes rubber) boots that are installed to
protect the swivel balls. Properly installed with the stitching at the
bottom they will keep rust at bay for many years. The goat skin that
they are made of is initially soaked in petroleum jelly (vaseline) and
from then on the oil that seeps past the swivel seals is enough to keep
them oiled. I made a set from a geniune one as a pattern and used the
best grade of goat skin I could find. These lasted for over ten years
and remained effective in protecting the chrome even after they were
rather torn and the stitching had gone.
  When I built Muddy I was in too much of a hurry to put gaiters on.
Five years later it is obvious that I should have taken the time to do
it as the balls are deteriorating.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 09:37:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

This whole thing about the movement of the float arm reminds me of an
old English nursery rhyme " when they were up they were up, and when
they were down they were down, but when they were only halfway way up
they were neither up nor down."
Anyway with the fuel sloshing around when you are driving the accuracy
is moot.
   John and Muddy

dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:
> >One of the things I've thought about designing over the years is a linear
> >fuel-gauge sender. It really wouldn't be a difficult device to design - a
> >twisted rod with a float to turn a multi-turn resistor would do it
> >nicely.
> I think Edmund Scientific already has a kit for that...or was it Radio
> (S)hack...
> please people, just drive the damn thing. how accurate do you want you fule
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> later
> DaveB

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:29:25 +0200
Subject: New brake system SIII

I have just replaced the entire brake system on my 88" - new shoes,
cylinders, pipes, hoses, and a refurbished master slave. At present the
system is empty - the question is - does anyone have the recipe for
filling it with DOT4 and bleeding it.

The same question applies to my clutch system.

I will be mounting the new zinc-metallised and painted firewall
tomorrow, and then the brakes and clutch system must be finished.

All advice welcome...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:54:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Gaiters

The gaiters on mine are leather (but the leather could be from a sheep?).
They are a genuine Land Rover part (available from Rovers North for
example in the US) but since I am a (long) way from my parts manual
I can't tell you the part number.  The leather gaiters
can be field installed without diffiucly and without disturbing
the swivels etc.

There is also a rubber (or plastic?) gaiter available.  I think
this is perhaps a "military" version.  To install it
you have to separate the swivel ball from the axle.  The rubber
gaiter looks as if it would be much less vulnerable to water/mud.

Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:08:05 EDT
Subject: Heater blower

Hi all; I have seen some info on the swap of the serII heater motor with a Tr7
heater blower on the list.  I've just acquired a TR7 motor and heater core, so
I need to know if anyone has used the core and the blower together or just the
blower.  And if so is the blower a direct swap for the SerII blower?
  I've rebuilt the serII core but still can't get enough heat into the inside.
Now i "m trying to increase the amount of air coming in,maybe that is the
problem.  The TR7 motor is a 4 speed so it should put out major air compared
to the stock blower.
Thanks in advance
Steve F
69 SIIA 88 with little heat,except in summer
65 SIIA 88 with kodiac

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 00:01:38 +0200
Subject: Re: Rubber Gaiters

Anyone know where you can get rubber gaiters?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 00:03:46 +0200
Subject: Steering relay

Does anyone know if the steering relay (the spring loaded jobby in the
front cross-member) is eternally rotatable, or is there a centre
position to which it must be set before replacing the lever arms and
track rods, to ensure equal drag and equal travel to both sides?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Giles Warham <giles@g7tgr.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 22:30:02 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: G10 Winch!  -- AMAZING!!!

I am very sorry ladys and gentlemen - this wasnt intended as a spam - I
just wanted to tell everyone about it - I stand to gain nothing from what
I posted - just thought fellow Land-Rover owners would like to know about
it. 

Again, my appologies.

Best Regards,
Giles..

Land-Rover 1, 2a, 3 and 101FC -> http://www.g7tgr.demon.co.uk/landy.html
Internet: giles@g7tgr.demon.co.uk
Ampr    : g7tgr@gb7ipn.#44.gbr.eu
GW Computer Services - For all your computer needs.
Devon and Cornwall TCP/IP Co-ordinator

On Thu, 11 Jun 1998, jory bell wrote:

> i had to look back at the archives and see if he had ever posted before
> since it certainly seems spamlike. i am still not convinced it is not spam.
> ick.

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:39:45 -0400

 Nate, re your gearbox problems.
 The layshaft is constantly driven by the mainshaft. The mainshaft is either
driven by the layshaft or directly in top gear when the synchro hub is full
forward. 
If the gearbox locks up when you engage first gear, or when you engage
second gear then check to ensure that the synchro hub is central i.e the
gearbox is not in third or fourth.
  Are you rebuilding using the original parts ? if not which parts are you
exchanging ?  
E mail me privately if you want to describe in more detail what you have
done and more of the symptoms that you have.  Or if you want to talk about
it call me on 716 438 0890.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:50:30 -0400
Subject: No first or reverse.

C Wolfe writes re gearbox problem.
 Your description sounds very much like a broken layshaft, but could also be
that all the teeth are broken off  of the layshaft first gear. If you drain
the oil and look at the debris you may find the answer.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:18:39 -0300
Subject: Re: New brake system SIII

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> I have just replaced the entire brake system on my 88" - new shoes,
> cylinders, pipes, hoses, and a refurbished master slave. At present the
> system is empty - the question is - does anyone have the recipe for
> filling it with DOT4 and bleeding it.> 
> The same question applies to my clutch system.

 What ever you do use Castrol fluid as not all DOT 4 is the same as some
have found to their cost.
 If you do not have acess to a power bleeder follow this procedure.
   Fill the master cylinder. remove the lines out of the mc and hold
fingers over the ports as someone pushes the pedal. The air and some
fluid will escape past your fingers. Keep your fingers in place as the
pedal is released. Repeat until the air is gone. This has bled the mc.
 Promptly replace the lines. Open the bleeder at the farthest point from
the mc and bleed that wheel cylinder, procede to the other WCs until
they are all done. Do Not forget to refill the  mc from time to time.
  The clutch mc usually does not need to be bled separately, just bleed
that system from the slave cylinder bleed screw. 
     John and Muddy
> I will be mounting the new zinc-metallised and painted firewall
> tomorrow, and then the brakes and clutch system must be finished.
> All advice welcome...
> Adrian Redmond
> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
> Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:23:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Steering relay

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Does anyone know if the steering relay (the spring loaded jobby in the
> front cross-member) is eternally rotatable, or is there a centre
> position to which it must be set before replacing the lever arms and
> track rods, to ensure equal drag and equal travel to both sides?

 It goes round and round and round and ........
      John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:48:19 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dormobiles...

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:09:35 -0600
Subject: RE: No First ir Reverse

I have had a similar experience on the Red Dinosaur.
Although the front layshaft bearing is possibly shot, I have
seen the teeth ground off of first gear layshaft.  This was
my situation back in December.  It is easy to replace 1st
layshaft, but you will need a shop to press on the new gear.
Replace both the bearings (front and back).  The rear
bearing race is easy to remove once you know the trick.

Trick:
1.0 Separate the transfer case from the gearbox.
2.0 Looking at the rear of the gearbox housing.  Locate the
two studs that appear to be across the bearing race.
3.0 scribe a line through the center lines of these two stud
holes.
4.0 measure 11mm or roughly 1/2 inch from the center line of
the left stud along the line scribed above.
5.0 drill a 3/16 hole to the back of the bearing race
6.0 tap out the race with a small drift.

Don't worry the hole you just drilled is on the mating faces
of the gearbox and transfer case.  Oil will not leak out
when they are reassembled with a gasket.

The whole job should only take a day or two depending on how
handy you are a pulling and replacing the gearbox/transfer
case.

Good luck

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur.

------------------------------

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:07:25 -0700
Subject: Miami Beach-Blue Diamond

I figured the spammers must like Land Rovers since they posted to our
board, so I sent them some Rover pictures, about a meg's worth, several
times. If you want to see the pictures, you can at 
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo 
	I will probably also put up pictures from the Steamboat Co. rally which
is the 25th - 28th of June, after I take them of course. I hope to see
some of you there.

Jim Hall
1966 88"

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:19:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Prohibitive Fax cost was Miami

> Prices of Int faxing is a bit prohibitive from SA but I'm sure that
you
> stateside and UK-based list members could tie up their faxlines for
> quite a long time... ;->

Check this site out for free faxing :-) (with wicked grin as I type
this) bet U they'll be rather surprised by the response to their
marketing.

http://www-usa.tpc.int/tpc_home.html

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

------------------------------

From: Ian Vowles <Ian@modricusa.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:40:35 -0500
Subject: Re: G10 Winch!  -- AMAZING!!!

Giles,

I found it useful and interesting - not all of us assumed it was anything
other than genuine....

Cheers,

Ian

At 10:30 PM 6/14/98 +0100, you wrote:
>I am very sorry ladys and gentlemen - this wasnt intended as a spam - I
>just wanted to tell everyone about it - I stand to gain nothing from what
>I posted - just thought fellow Land-Rover owners would like to know about
>it. 
>Again, my appologies.
>Best Regards,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
>> since it certainly seems spamlike. i am still not convinced it is not spam.
>> ick.

------------------------------

From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 22:39:54 -0500
Subject: !968  Blue paint code

Hi All,
 Well I have read a lot of about color codes in other postings.  I lost
my email file & need a repost of the codes for the Blue code for me.

Thanks,
 Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2098 22:54:05 -0500
Subject: Galvanizing places in Chi?

Does anyone know of any good places to get their odd bits hot-dip galvanized
in Chicagoland?  I'd like to redo the easily removeable bits now, and
someday get to the cappings...

Thanks.

Rgds,
Vel Natarajan
66 SWB

------------------------------

From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:12:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: !968  Blue paint code

At 10:39 PM 6/14/98 -0500, Rob Davis_Chicago wrote:
> Well I have read a lot of about color codes in other postings.  I lost
>my email file & need a repost of the codes for the Blue code for me.

 see www.landrover.net/paint

-Michael

------------------------------

From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 00:16:02 -0400
Subject: OVLR trip

Hi all,

I am prepping to head out for Silver Lake on Friday, and was wondering what
the ruling was on bringing fuel cans across the border.

I know they would raise their browl to 65 packs of smokes, but fuel?
TIA

Mike Johnson
'74 SIII 88 (Chester)
***This space available***
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: Francois ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 07:55:11 +0200
Subject: Dormobiles : thanks for the reponse+question

Ok, i already had seen dormobiles, but didn't know their real name !

Has it been done with the 1 ton forward control land rover ? There
should be more space in it no ? But it would require a non-soft top 1
ton LR. Has it been produced (i mean the har top 1 ton forward control)
?? 

Thanks again
Bue the way, i will look at my catalogs for the part number of gaiters,
and to see if the rubber ones are in the catalogs (but those catalogs
are far from me at the moment)

Bye

------------------------------

From: Martin Lough <martin@fwmurphy.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:22:08 +0100

Hi everybody,
 Watch this space, if you can stand to follow the trials and tribulations of 
 trying to get my Series 3 back to working order.
 
 The story so far... Under power a loud knocking noise was present from the 
 engine. The local LR dealer suggested 3 poss problems.
 1. Combustion spacer fallen into piston
 2. Big end bearings
 3. Broken crank shaft
I have removed the head pistons and main bearings. So far I have no idea 
What is going on? Any ideas would be much appreciated, because as far as I can 
tell nothing is a miss.

  Thanks in advance
  Martin@fwmurphy.co.uk
 

martin@fwmurphy.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "Dunster, Jon" <jond@chichester.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:43:28 +0100
Subject: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

The symptoms:

Pulls to the left.  Needs positive pressure towards right to keep in a
straight line.  When the wheel is centralised a bad shake occurs.  I've
had the wheels balanced to no avail.

Does this immediately point anyone to a specific ailment ? :-(

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jon Dunster, Head of Computer Support Services Unit
Chichester College of Arts, Science & Technology
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:55:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Help! Steering problems on a 90 ...

Check wheel alignment, you may have bend something under there,

Also check for play in the steering system and wheel bearings,  jack 
up the front shake and rotate the wheels.......

(shake baby shake!!!!!!!!!!!!............) 
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

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