Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:37:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

But is the sender linear or logarithmic?

involve a tangent rather than an exponent)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk on 06/10/98 09:31:29 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Fuel Gauge - exponential???

A quick (ish) question about the fuel gauge on my SWB petrol SIII - if I
fill her up the first half-tank gets used up in the blink of an eye
(relatively) and the last quarter-tank seems to last for ages in
comparison.
Now, if the fuel sender arm is pivoted at the top (I haven't actually
looked), then as the fuel level drops, the actual VERTICAL movement of the
arm will be something like exponential (more vertical movement at the top
of the tank - less towards the bottom).
If that's the case then the point where my fuel gauge reads half-full (or
half empty depending on your outlook on life!!) is not actually reflecting
a half-full tank, shouldn't the half-tank point be lower down the gauge??
Alternatively it could just be that I glance at the fuel gauge more
frequently when I know there's not loads in it and so it SEEMS to last
longer - any thoughts??
If my 'exponential' theory is right are there any geniuses out there who'd
like to propose cures?? (A vertical bar with a free-moving floating collar
for the sender??).

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 07:46:03 EDT
Subject: Re:  Fuel Gauge - exponential???

In a message dated 6/10/98 5:53:52 AM, Duncan wrote:

>If that's the case then the point where my fuel gauge reads half-full (or
>half empty depending on your outlook on life!!) is not actually reflecting
a half-full tank, shouldn't the half-tank point be lower down the gauge??

Alternatively it could just be that I glance at the fuel gauge more
frequently when I know there's not loads in it and so it SEEMS to last
longer - any thoughts??

>If my 'exponential' theory is right are there any geniuses out there who'd
>like to propose cures?? 

Fill just the top half of the tank, see how long it takes to use up.

Fill just the bottom half of the tank, see how long it takes to use up.

Compare the two. ;-)

What I did has more to do with the actual amount (in gallons) of fuel that is
in my tank. I drove as far as I felt comfortable with with the light on, and
then filled the tank (20 US gallons). Then I drove it until the light came on,
at 16.5 US gallons. So now I kinda have an idea what regular capacity is, and
how many gallons are in "reserve". 16.5 gallons gets used up in 240ish miles
of city driving, so then I re-filled the tank and checked to see where the
needle was at 120 miles. Should have been *half*, right? Well it wasn't half
right. The needle was indicating above half, closer to the first 1/4, which
sort of means the last 1/4 is actually the reserve amount, which is why the
red area is so large. Anyway, at least I know that at 240 miles, when I re-
zero the button, I can drive based on miles and not the fuel gauge.

So, just like the person who recommended calibrating the speedometer with
little white dots on the glass, maybe it would be benefitial to record the
mileage it takes to use a whole tank, then see where the needle is at the half
way point on the next tank, and call that the real half, whatever it
indicates. Now the instrument is calibrated to at least the Eritrean Air Force
standards.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 08:35:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing

Jim asked about his ignition timing retarding itself over time (no pun
intended).
	Jim - did you lube the point's rubbing block?  If not the rubbing block
will wear away (or melt away), causing the points to close down.  As they
close down the dwell angle increases.  For every degree of increase the
timing retards a degree - until the points close to the point where the
engine won't run.
	On a different subject - my truck has started whistling at high RPMs.  
It
whistles as a sort of audible tachometer just before I upshift to a higher
gear.  It's as if there is an air leak in the plumbing between the carb and
aircleaner - at high air flow perhaps the oil bath aircleaner is too
restrictive for the Zenith carb and air is sucked in elsewhere?  In any
event I haven't found the "elsewhere".  Anyone else experience this?
erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Ser. III  88"
 

------------------------------

From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 08:02:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing Problems

>I too had checked all the bits and pieces and couldn't see where it
>could possibly be moving.

Check the dist drive coupling for wear (the notched donut shaped piece 
that sits between the dist shaft and the drive from the cam).  The male & 
female cog/notches will wear and set up quite a vibration inside the 
dist.  Happened to me once to the point of breaking the counter weights 
inside the dist loose and eventually cutting the distributor body in half.

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: West <GebietWest@ATELCO.DE>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:23:56 +0200
Subject: Re Towing 2.try

> Andrew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net> writes 
> Hi All:
>    Does anyone know what the rated towing ability is for a 66 109 2.25
5
> door?
> Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>  wrote 

> My  1980 SIII 109 2,25 diesel is allowed to tow 1350 Kg when the
trailer has
> ts own breaks. 

Hello,

My Landrover 109 (ex HT) has written in the (german) papers that she can
tow 2500Kg (braked trailer)
on the data plate is written 2 ton (on the road) 1 ton (cross-country).

2500 KG is quite a lot for my 2,25l Diesel. Once I towed a trailer with
another LW 109 on it. The accelation belongs a littel above Zero.
but the max speed was 50 kmph.

bye

OLi

1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "everyday transport" slow & smokey  

------------------------------

From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:39:18 +0200
Subject: AW: Re Towing 2.try

> Hello,
> My Landrover 109 (ex HT) has written in the (german) papers that she can
> tow 2500Kg (braked trailer)
> on the data plate is written 2 ton (on the road) 1 ton (cross-country).
> 2500 KG is quite a lot for my 2,25l Diesel. Once I towed a trailer with
> another LW 109 on it. The accelation belongs a littel above Zero.
> but the max speed was 50 kmph.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> bye
> OLi
	HI Oli

	You are allowed to tow 2500 kg ??  Maybe you can contact me direct
an send me a copy of your  Fahrzeugschein  :-)))  I have tried to push my
towinglimit up but the TÜV dont wont to.

	By 

			Dennis Kuhl	

Dennis Kuhl   
Owner 109 SIII  1980 SANTANA SW

dennis.kuhl@hvr.siemens.de
dennis@i-lab.de  

------------------------------

From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:29:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Double S and replacing exhausts

After one bad experience in the past with an asian car, I have always
used factory  mufflers and pipes. On 2 Hondas and 3 Datsuns, replacing
the removed  section was always easy, the new part fit perfect.

On my 109", the PO used part of a the stock down pipe, 3 or 4 other
pipes welded together and a large generic muffler. Works great till it
breaks, which it did.

So when the new down pipe arrives I will have to mess around a bit to
get the current muffler connected to the new down pipe.

After the exhaust manifold cracks while trying to get the old
bolts/studs/rust/down pipe off, I'll buy the rest of the exhaust system
along with a new manifold.

I vote for Genuine Crap for exhaust systems.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:47:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Double S and replacing exhausts

On Wed, 10 Jun 1998, Keith Mohlenhoff wrote:

> On my 109", the PO used part of a the stock down pipe, 3 or 4 other
> pipes welded together and a large generic muffler. Works great till it
> breaks, which it did.

I have same sort of problem.  I have headers.  The PO used a mostly stock
system other than that, but the middle pipe has been cut and a flange to
fit the collector put on the end.  I haven't found a shop willing, and
able, to fit the middle pipe.  

David

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:44:08 +0200
Subject: Re: AW: Re Towing 2.try

How much can the LR actually pull? I mean if I want to use it like a
tractor and pull home some hey using the low gears, what is the maximum
towing capacity?

Peter 
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:56:40 -0400
Subject: Re: AW: Re Towing 2.try

For a 91 RR in Low Range the max is 7500lb!  I don't know how well or how
fast you could pull it though. I know this is coil sprung info, but just
though that I would offer it up! Sorry to offend any leafers!

Cheers,

Christopher Dillard
Database Administrator
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)
Greenville SC USA
cdillard@aholdusa.com

------------------------------

From: nickf@infocom.com (Nick Fankhauser)
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:09:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

I did some research on this at one point when Dave Scheidt was wondering
about the proper resistance. I took apart a functional sender, and found
that the resistance is proportional to the height of the float. (So it's a
straight line, not exponential.) I don't remember the resistance off the top
of my head, but its probably still in the archives. (The archive search is
great! probably the most useful LR tool I have access to! Kudos to Bill &
cohorts.)

During the same exploration, I found that it would be pretty easy for the
winding to get some crud on it that would screw up your readings at a
particular point on the scale, so if you think you have a problem, it might
be worth some investigation and judicious application of contact cleaner.

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:12:36 -0400
Subject: RE: AW: Re Towing 2.try

> How much can the LR actually pull? I mean if I want to use it like a
> tractor and pull home some hey using the low gears, what is the maximum
> towing capacity?

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a toosie roll tootsie pop?

CRUNCH!

The world may never know.

-Scott
 http://www.scratchstudio.com.rover

------------------------------

From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@att.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:53:43 -0500
Subject: HF Communication 

Hi all.....

I am interested in determining if there are LR owners who are Amateur
Radio Operators, that operate HF from their LR's or from home. Drop me
line if you want to arrange a sked.

Jon, W8JON

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 17:08:22 +0000
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

  If you have tried to find
>a Whitworth or BA fastner in the US, you know it is damm near impossible.

Good point,David,I hadnt thought of that one.My only excuse being I grew up
with the system,and you can still get them here.Just.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:11:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

aOn Wed, 10 Jun 1998, Nick Fankhauser wrote:

> I did some research on this at one point when Dave Scheidt was wondering
> about the proper resistance. I took apart a functional sender, and found
> that the resistance is proportional to the height of the float. (So it's a
> straight line, not exponential.) I don't remember the resistance off the top

30 to 300 Ohms, I think, at least for +Ve .  The resistance change is
linear with the movement of the arm.  Unfortunatly, the movement of the
float is not linear with respect to the fuel level.  The float is
constrained by arm it is attached to the sender with, so it describes an
arc.  depending on on which fraction of the circle it is in, it would
effect which portion of the reading moves excessivly fast.  The solution,
if you are really worried about these things, is to mark the head with the
correct readings.

David

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:18:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

David adds a lot of good resistance data, then tacks on:

if you are really worried about these things, is to mark the head with the
correct readings.

David

And if you're this concerned, why are you driving a Land-Rover? 8*)

This is why I carry gas cans on long trips - specifically so i can fill-up
if the electricals do something dumb.

One of the things I've thought about designing over the years is a linear
fuel-gauge sender. It really wouldn't be a difficult device to design - a
twisted rod with a float to turn a multi-turn resistor would do it nicely.

Think Archimedes' screw with a float riding on it and you won't be far
wrong...

                    aj"NEVER trust a gas gauge!"r

------------------------------

From: Rob Horstman <robh@molienergy.bc.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:18:56 -0700
Subject: Brake Line sizes ? 

Hello All and thanks for reading....

I have a 1968 Series IIA that I'm building up, and I'm at the point
where I am almost ready to put it on the road. The only problem is that
I need to bleed the brakes. Before I can do this however, I need to
replace a couple of the brake lines. 

What I'm looking for is the following, as I cannot find any of the old
lines or connectors (@#*x@#!!??) (Some where in the garage I'm sure !)

Size of the brake line that is proper for this application ( 3/16 "
????)

Size of the connectors to use on the front hoses to the flex lines ?
(Metric or Standard ???)
size of connectors on the back lines ?

I have the double flaring tool, and have made lines for other vehicles
in the past, but would like some info before undertaking this one.... I
want to make sure my newly finished project STOPS when I want it
too..... Besides, the wife might not want a hole in the end of the
garage... <grin>

Thanks in advance for any help....

Rob

1968 Series IIA - "Resurrection"

Rob Horstman, Systems Administrator
Email : robh@molienergy.bc.ca
Moli Energy (1990) Ltd.
20000 Stewart Crescent,                  Direct Line - (604) 466-6681 
Maple Ridge, BC, Canada                Main #       - (604) 466-6654
V2X  9E7
              Visit us on the WEB  @  www.molienergy.bc.ca

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:23:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Line sizes ?

Brake lines?

3/16 is right, and a standared double-flare works nicely.

I've had luck using standard auto-parts store lines by cutting off one end
and replacing the short threaded bit with a long one, so that the line has
two long threaded ends. These work fine - I've 2 (at present) on Mr.
Churchill, and the 88's going to have all of its lines done this way.

68 would have been standard (rather than metric) threads - cheap, simple
and easily available unless you insist on the Girling threaded bits with
the blank space before the threading.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:35:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

On Wed, 10 Jun 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> And if you're this concerned, why are you driving a Land-Rover? 8*)

I will have you know that I have a properly non-functioning fuel gague.
(wiring problem...)

> One of the things I've thought about designing over the years is a linear
> fuel-gauge sender. It really wouldn't be a difficult device to design - a
> twisted rod with a float to turn a multi-turn resistor would do it nicely.
> Think Archimedes' screw with a float riding on it and you won't be far
> wrong...

Er, how about a float constrained to move only verticlly by a cage?
the float can be attached to the arm with something springy, and the cage
and gravity supply the force to twist it.  I have seen something like
this, though it wasn't in a gas tank.  

David

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 98 12:33:31 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Whitworth Wrenches

  If you have tried to find
>a Whitworth or BA fastner in the US, you know it is damm near impossible.

>Good point,David,I hadnt thought of that one.My only excuse being I grew up 
>with the system,and you can still get them here.Just.

no problem here actually. Just cal rovers north. they have just about any 
fastener used in a lr. if they are old and beat up and I need them *today* i 
just dress the threads with a file and use some loctite or a lock washer (on 
critical parts like u-bolts. etc)
later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:37:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Design 101:

David adds:

Er, how about a float constrained to move only verticlly by a cage?
the float can be attached to the arm with something springy, and the cage
and gravity supply the force to twist it.  I have seen something like
this, though it wasn't in a gas tank.

David

This is essentially what I had in mind - a float riding on 2 wires, with a
slot at the center to engage the screw (which is a piece of twisted flat
stock, pinned at the end to turn in a bearing supported by the 2 wires).

This sticks through a gland and engages the center of the rheostat.

Simple, direct and easy to diagnose - but not cheap, which is why they
don't do it that way.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: "Perdic, Len - INC" <lperdic@laidlaw.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:40:31 -0400
Subject: Fairey Overdrive Fitting

'ello all!

I am trying to fit a used Fairey overdrive to my newly acquired, 1980
ex-MoD Series III 109".

Does anyone have any information on the process or can someone point me
in a direction where I can find out how to do this?

Also, it seems that I cannot shift into 2nd gear; all other gears work
fine.  There is no grinding noise coming from the gearbox.  I've drained
the tranny fluid and there are no teeth or large bits of metal to be
found.  Any suggestions???

Thanks for any and all help!

Please reply to:  lnp@worldchat.com

Cheers,
Len

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 12:43:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Fairey Overdrive Fitting

For fitting instructions call Superwinch - they'll happily send you the
manual with the directions.

For the 2nd gear problem:

Hmmm... I'd get the floor out and have a gander at the shift rods - sounds
like someone's hanging up and not moving properly.

Either that, or the synchro's popped a spring and it's jamming in the 2nd
gear direction.

Getting the floor up and pulling the top cover would give you the answers
you need.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 98 12:56:24 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

>One of the things I've thought about designing over the years is a linear 
>fuel-gauge sender. It really wouldn't be a difficult device to design - a 
>twisted rod with a float to turn a multi-turn resistor would do it 
>nicely.

I think Edmund Scientific already has a kit for that...or was it Radio 
(S)hack...

please people, just drive the damn thing. how accurate do you want you fule 
guage to be? Unimog guage looks like a ruler. dip it in the tank. na guesswork 
there.

i find my SIII fuel guage to be quite reliable. when it's on E or getting close 
I fill it up.(!) I'm aware that I will have to do so every 150 miles or so. Not 
a hard thnig to keep on top of guys. If you're on the east coast of the US you 
will really have to *try* to run out of gas. Lots of other places the same way. 
If you're in more sparsely populated areas or in the back country then its 
different. But then you NEED to carry extra gas so it still isn't a big issue. 

I have also had no guage failures except for guages getting toasted by a bad 
sender. temp guage went on the fritz due to a loose tab on the sender. swapped 
in the capillary type. 

later
DaveB 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 98 13:05:31 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Fairey Overdrive Fitting

>For the 2nd gear problem:

>Either that, or the synchro's popped a spring and it's jamming in the 2nd 
>gear direction.

not likely in the SIII box. different construction than the 3/4 synchro. Broken 
spring would probably not have this effect. Could be:
clutch not disengaging all the way
pilot bush grabbing
fork worn *really* bad
ball of shift lever *not* in end of selector rod
selector fork loose or out of place.
2nd gear bush worn/*missing*
engagement teeth on synchro or 2nd gear *gone*

all of which are jsut as bad if not worse than what al suggested, so:

do what al said,have a looksee

later
DaveB

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 11:08:14 -0600
Subject: RE: Whitworth Wrenchs
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!

Another case of a "Classic" using whitworth threads. Mauser Rifle =
actions have a whitworth thread form where the barrel mounts to the =
action. As a gunsmith, you have to have 55 and 60 degree thread cutting =
bits (55 for the Mausers and 60 for all other Rifles)

Ironic in how two classic engineering designs both have the same =
threads!! Now if Land Rover (1948-1998) can last as long as a Mauser 98 =
(1898-1998).

Art

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD9460.111B1240
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 13:29:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Double S

In a message dated 10/06/98  00:40:07, you write:

<<  am following this thread as I anticipate having to start replacing exhaust
 bits from the tail, forward, in the next year or two. 
 
 My options:
 
 1) Get Genuine Crap
 2) Get Aftermarket Crap
 3) Have suitable steel tubing bent to follow original's route, source my own
 mufflers (primary & tail), do necessary clamping/welding, have the lot Jet-
Hot
 (ceramic) Coated.
 4) See what happens from stainless thread and maybe get that. (Although, it
 seems british exhaust manufacturers don't list a 3.9 EFI for the 110, with
the
 US cats... maybe the V8 110s over there have a different system...)
  >>

Hi Pat,
I'm on the saving money trail again... or possibly putting you on it.

Over here we've got an exhaust manufacturer in (nearly) every city. Faced with
the cost of a new exhaust one day a bloke I knew got out the yellow pages,
phoned one of these and asked 'how much to make me an exhaust please?' It cost
about half the other quotes he'd got!
Had to fit it himself of course but.......

'ave a butchers in yr yellow pages.... (translation: 'butchers'  from
butcher's hook - rhyming slang for 'look' - well I can't rabbit all curds,
gotta get up the apples to the old dutch)

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 13:29:29 EDT
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

In a message dated 10/06/98  01:05:50, you write:

<< What are you talking about? That would be RAPE!!
 No 2* year old shoul be messing around with a less than 1 year old.
 You got to put a stop to this!! Or you will be charged as an accesory to
rape.
  >>

nah, in the UK that's just ''s*x with a minor'' or''child's play'' ouch.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Alan Bishop <a.bishop@zetnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 19:14:13 +0100
Subject: Air tools.

Anyone have any advice on air tools? The main things I would like to 
know is what size air tank is the most sensible, what difference the 
size actually makes for home DIY use and what sort of output (cmf?) 
to look for.

It is just for home use, mainly for the landrover and it just seems 
like a nice labour saving device (do such things actually exist?). 
Does anyone have a compressor that they don't use any more which they 
wish to sell, or does anyone know where such an item can be purchased 
second hand or new (less than the machine mart prices?)

Thanks

Regards

Alan.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:31:56 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Fuel Gauge Design 101:

In a message dated 6/10/98 12:43:08 PM, you wrote:

>This is essentially what I had in mind - a float riding on 2 wires, with a
>slot at the center to engage the screw (which is a piece of twisted flat
>stock, pinned at the end to turn in a bearing supported by the 2 wires).
>This sticks through a gland and engages the center of the rheostat.
>Simple, direct and easy to diagnose - but not cheap, which is why they
>don't do it that way.

There's a cheap version of this in gas tanks made for outboard engines (small
ones, at least). It is sometimes built in to the filler cap, sometimes
elsewhere on the top of the tank; these are the round, direct-reading ones,
not the rectangular ones. A float moves up and down a twisted piece of flat
metal, and as it rises & falls, it moves the needle from F to E or whatever.
These are also never to be trusted, as they are often rusted...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 20:17:17 +0100
Subject: Door Tops

Hi

We're back at this question again.  I can;t find the exact post for what I
want, but here goes:

I have finally got hold of an angle grinder to slice off the nuts holding
the drivers' side door top to the door (on the bolts).  As one or two of my
freinds might point out, I went through 2 spanners (motor factors &
Halfords) to get it moving. Useless.  They both snapped. I didn't even use
that much pressure (or my freind, who was doing the pulling)!  At least I
got my money  back off Halfords though!

Anyway.  I saw from someone here that when putting the door top on I needed
to add a bit of sealant or something, so the door top leaned in. I have a
S3 lightweight...

Also, do I need to put stuff like silicone sealant between the door bottom
and top, any other bits or bobs and is it worth putting copper-ease on the
nuts/studs when mounting it all

Cheers for now

Elwyn. 
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
S3 '72 Lightweight.

------------------------------

From: Michael Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:42:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Door Tops

I would recommend using the rubber seal that goes between the top and
bottom.  It should do just fine.  And for the bolts lube them up really
good with anti-seize.

Mike Johnson
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

>Hi
>We're back at this question again.  I can;t find the exact post for what I
>want, but here goes:
>I have finally got hold of an angle grinder to slice off the nuts holding
>the drivers' side door top to the door (on the bolts).  As one or two of my
>freinds might point out, I went through 2 spanners (motor factors &
>Halfords) to get it moving. Useless.  They both snapped. I didn't even use
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
>In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
>S3 '72 Lightweight.

------------------------------

From: "Stude, Herman L." <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:38:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Air tools.

 To All;

>Anyone have any advice on air tools? The main things I would like to
>know is what size air tank is the most sensible, what difference the
>size actually makes for home DIY use and what sort of output (cmf?)
>to look for.
>It is just for home use, mainly for the landrover

I've been wondering about the same things.  What hp does one need for one or
two users in a home garage.  I'm told that once you start using them you
find all sorts of ways to use them :)

Herman

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:44:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Tops

In a message dated 6/10/98 3:22:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
elwyny@mailshuttle.com writes:

<< I have finally got hold of an angle grinder to slice off the nuts holding
 the drivers' side door top to the door (on the bolts). >>

I might suggest a nut splitter in this case rather than an angle grinder.   My
reasoning being that a nut splitter is far less likely to damage the threads
on the door top posts and the angle grinder may do some serious damage to the
aluminum door skin if it slips off the nut

Nate

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 98 15:50:08 EST
Subject: Re: Door Tops

Hi

>I have finally got hold of an angle grinder to slice off the nuts holding 
>the drivers' side door top to the door (on the bolts).  

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

don't do it!!

unless you are replacing the doortop(s)

have you tried using heat?

they *really* oughtta come off. 
Guess if you're careful you can just cut through the nut and save the 
threads so's that you can put the door top on again later

should be a rubber strip 'twixt the door and the top. at least on a regular 
LR. DOn't know about the ltwt's. copperease would be fine but it WILL get 
on you while your bouncing around in there. Better off just making sure you 
take em off once in a while.

later
DaveB

As one or two of my freinds might point out, I went through 2 spanners 
(motor factors & Halfords) to get it moving. Useless.  They both snapped. I 
didn't even use that much pressure (or my freind, who was doing the 
pulling)!  At least I got my money  back off Halfords though!

Anyway.  I saw from someone here that when putting the door top on I needed 
to add a bit of sealant or something, so the door top leaned in. I have a 
S3 lightweight...

Also, do I need to put stuff like silicone sealant between the door bottom 
and top, any other bits or bobs and is it worth putting copper-ease on the 
nuts/studs when mounting it all

Cheers for now

Elwyn. 
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!! 
S3 '72 Lightweight.

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:00:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Whitworth Wrenchs

On Wed, 10 Jun 1998, Art Bitterman wrote:

> Another case of a "Classic" using whitworth threads. Mauser Rifle =
> actions have a whitworth thread form where the barrel mounts to the =

Whitworth stuff shows up in the damndest places.  ONe of parents neighbors
rebuilt a pre-war South Bend lathe (how anyone does this outside SB, In is
beyond me!)  It had Whit studs holding the apron.

david

------------------------------

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:23:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Door Tops

Got frozen Nuts?
Get some aero-Kroil penetrating spray from kano labs in Tennessee. My
door top nuts were rusted and frozen rock solid. Some Kroil and 2 days
later they came right off. I swear by this stuff
FWIW
Rgds
Steve Bradke 72 Series lll 88
WA2GMC       68 Series lla 88
             96 Discovery   
> I

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 14:26:10 -0500
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

At 01:29 PM 6/10/98 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 10/06/98  01:05:50, you write:
><< What are you talking about? That would be RAPE!!
> No 2* year old shoul be messing around with a less than 1 year old.
> You got to put a stop to this!! Or you will be charged as an accesory to
>rape.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>rape.
>nah, in the UK that's just ''s*x with a minor'' or''child's play'' ouch.
"Child's play"
I like that term. 
Will try to sell the idea around.

(what are we saying?, please!!!!!!!!)

>best cheers
>Frank
> No 2* year old shoul be messing around with a less than 1 year old.
> You got to put a stop to this!! Or you will be charged as an accesory to
LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
Departamento Legal - JCCCSA
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:41:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Air tools.

Hey Alan,
    I've got a 5 HP 220v with a 30 gallon tank and I don't have a tool that
it won't keep up with. It will keep up with my 1/2" impact gun so that I can
do all four wheels one right after another without waiting. No problems with
my paint gun, small  hand-held sand-blaster, air ratchet, or air drill. Even
the air blower nozzle doesn't notice a drop when used for extended periods.
I don't know which one uses the most but I would suspect it's the impact
gun.
      Good luck,
                     Dan.     '61 SII 88 HT

Alan Bishop wrote:

> Anyone have any advice on air tools? The main things I would like to
> know is what size air tank is the most sensible, what difference the
> size actually makes for home DIY use and what sort of output (cmf?)
> to look for.
> It is just for home use, mainly for the landrover and it just seems
> like a nice labour saving device (do such things actually exist?).
> Does anyone have a compressor that they don't use any more which they
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Regards
> Alan.

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 16:47:03 -0400
Subject: FINSUPdate: Time to fess up.

I've been incommunicado from this list for a couple of weeks. No particular
reason--besides "busy-ness"--but I figured I'd take a couple of minutes to
update everyone on FINSUP's status. (Those on the Empire list already know
this.)

After replacing an "exploded" front diff, (Interesting story in
itself--both the breaking and the repair process) Eric Riston and I went
for a test spin. The diff was fine, but my suspicion that something else
was amiss was confirmed by Eric. Symptoms: No power, especially while
climbing hills, and the engine emitted a series of small backfires while
engine braking downhill. We checked the timing, and found it to be within
spec.Aside from the engine problem, we noticed that the clutch wasn't
completely disengaging (diagnosis: worn push rod--a 10 minute fix) and that
the tie-rod ends needed to be replaced soon.

Al Richer made a number of suggestions about things to check. However, I'd
spent just about every moment of "free" time for the previous two weeks
working on the Rover (and ignoring other things that I shouldn't have) so I
decided that I needed a break. Besides, the problem was likely to be beyond
my capabilites (time, skill, shop space) to repair, so I decided to take
the vehicle to a commercial mechanic. Local Series owner Tom Smith
recommended a shop. "They're not cheap, but they're fair, they know Rovers,
and they do great work." Good enough for me. Off we went to the shop and
after a static compression test and a leakdown test and a visual inspection
of the innards the verdict came back: Tired motor.

I decided (and this decision has met with some controversy amongst those
"in the know" but, given my circumstances I still think I made the correct
choice) to not mess around with this motor for the moment and (blowing
whatever semblance of a budget I may have had) have a "high performance"
Turner long block installed.  I lack the time, energy or desire to ship my
own over from the U.K. (Cheaper, but whatever time I put into the process
is "unbillable.") AB couldn't ship until July. Charlie at Rovers North set
me up though, along with new clutch bits, fuel pump, water pump rebuild kit
and hoses. They went on a truck on Friday afternoon and arrived in Wilton,
CT on Monday.

Meanwhile over the weekend I was up to Wynantskill, NY to help Eric Riston
work on his Rangie restoration. While sliding around underneath his car
coating "everything that was originally black" with a coat of POR 15, I
started thinking aloud, "I suppose while they've got the engine out it
would be a pretty good time to replace the crushed head pipe and rusty
exhaust system." "Want that on Amex or MC?": Eric's way of agreeing, and
promising to ship me a stainless steel AB exhaust system on Monday.

Anyhow work is progressing steadily and I should be up and running,
complete with the new tie-rod ends (from a Rangie--alleged to be stronger)
and repaired clutch, by the end of the week. FINSUP is going to pass on the
Birthday Party this year (*I'll* be there though) so the "public debut"
will be at Greek Peak. The old block--in the new crate--is going to be
stored in my parents' basement until I get around to rebuilding it myself
(this Winter?) for the "education." Besides, it's nice to have a spare. ;-)

Other than that I'm working like a dog to pay off the note I've taken out
to cover this little repair job.

RoverOn!

jab

P.S. I came up with the following .sig while my Rover was sick but now it
should be ammended to "rich chic!"

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	I'm looking for a smart woman in a real short skirt...
				--Jimmy Buffett, Smart Woman
	...and her own complete set of SnapOn tools,
		plus the know-how to use them!
			     --Jeff Berg, Broken Rover Blues

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 98 16:58:16 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Door Tops

>Got frozen Nuts?
>Get some aero-Kroil penetrating spray from kano labs in Tennessee. My 
>door top nuts were rusted and frozen rock solid. Some Kroil and 2 days 
>later they came right off. I swear by this stuff

good god man! you spray this stuff on your nuts and they come off two days 
later?! oughtta be a warning on the package fer chrissakes!

 and it penetrates too, for the ladies!

how'd they get frozen?

later
Daveb

------------------------------

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 17:08:29 EDT
Subject: Message for Bren Workman

Howdy folks, 
sorry to bug you all w/ this, but if anyone out there sees Bren during his
journey (He'll be at the Solihull Society thing in June, I think), please tell
him that the number I gave him to call in GA to link up w/ me WON'T WORK.  The
guy who's # it is will be gone before we get there.

So please tell him to call Todd and Teri Kelly at (706) 321-0267 when he gets
there.  I'll be staying w/ them til I find a place down there.

Many thanks to whoever gives him this message, and again, sorry to bug you
all, but this is the only way I can think of to get ahold of him.

Bill Rice

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 22:09:34 +0100
Subject: RE: That little yellow lever...

thats pimping in the UK !!

john

------------------------------

From: "brian ..." <brdelab@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 15:21:23 PDT
Subject: My IIA be a Ticking

Hello All!  This is my first post to the list even though I have been 
reading it for a while.  I own a 1971 IIA 88, and it is suffering from a 
tick tick tick sound.  The sound only appears after the engine has been 
running for a bit ( a minute or so.)  I have consulted with others and 
have come to a possible conclusion that it could be worn timing gear or 
maybe a bent pushrod.  I haven't put the stethascope? to it yet, but I 
shall.  

Does this sound about right?  

I just had the cylinder head redone with a new rockershaft, and all of 
that checks out fine.  The ticking is not causing me any loss of power 
or "performance."  It is just a bit annoying for its volume outweighs 
the "normal" symphony of sounds that I have so grown accustomed too.

Thanks for any help,

Brian
1971 IIA 88 SW "M"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 18:31:25 EDT
Subject: Re: My IIA be a Ticking

In a message dated 6/10/98 6:23:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
brdelab@hotmail.com writes:

 Hello All!  This is my first post to the list even though I have been 
 reading it for a while.  I own a 1971 IIA 88, and it is suffering from a 
 tick tick tick sound.  The sound only appears after the engine has been 
 running for a bit ( a minute or so.)  I have consulted with others and 
 have come to a possible conclusion that it could be worn timing gear or 
 maybe a bent pushrod. >>

Also check your oil level and oil pressure.

Nate

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 23:59:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Door Tops

>on the door top posts and the angle grinder may do some serious damage to the
>aluminum door skin if it slips off the nut
>Nate

Yep, i know! That is why i am gonna be REAL CAREFULL!!!!

Cheers
EY
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
S3 '72 Lightweight.

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 23:59:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Door Tops

At 15:50 10/06/98 EST, you wrote:
>Hi
>>I have finally got hold of an angle grinder to slice off the nuts holding 
>>the drivers' side door top to the door (on the bolts).  
>NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
>don't do it!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>later
>DaveB

Yes, I am replacing the door top. I have a slight aversion to, every time i
go faster than 40mph in wind the top of the door leans OUT!!! It also gets
cold... then it rains. But hell, this IS WALES!!!

EY
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
S3 '72 Lightweight.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 20:20:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Tops

In a message dated 6/10/98 7:02:49 PM, you wrote:

>Yep, i know! That is why i am gonna be REAL CAREFULL!!!

Sure you are... ;-) Sometimes patience and time more than pay for speed and
convenience...

--pat.

Q: What are a redneck's last words?

A: Hey y'all, watch *this*!

haha...

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 20:55:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Door Tops

FWIF. For the seal which goes between the door top and the door, a friend made
some really neat ones using the rubber baseboard material you find in the
floor covering dept at Home Depot, etc. Just install in with the curved part
outside and down, drill or punch the holes and trim the excess inside. A
little sealant and it looks and works like new.

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: "William S. Kowalski" <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 21:38:00 -0400
Subject: Going to the Ottawa Birthday Party

As far as I know, two Landrovers are leaving from Chicago, Illinois, going
to The Birthday Party at Silver Lake, Ontario, Canada. We will be leaving
on Thursday 6/18/98, early AM, , traveling East on I-90 to Syracuse, NY,
North to  Selkirk Shores State Park for camping that night. We will be a 
1994 Yellow D-90 and a 1967 IIA, 109 " SW ( I was there last year) and
camping at Selkirk. We have a lot of Land-Rover tales, plus oil spots!!!!

Is anyone else venturing up that way???? Please advise----

Bill Kowalski (Big Bill)

Hinsdale, Illinois USA
'67 LR IIA, 109" (4 cyl. w/OD)
'63 Austin-Healey BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley "R" (For Sale)

------------------------------

From: "Giles Warham" <giles@g7tgr.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 02:30:34 +0100
Subject: G10 Winch!  -- AMAZING!!!

Hi!

David kindly invited me over for a beer, and to play with his new winch -
The G10.  This thing is absolutely incredible!   An X9 is brilliant, but for
sheer performance the G10 knocks the spots off it.

David Bowyer has basically taken an X9 winch, and made it more efficient -
using roller barrings instead of the original nylon (or whatever they are -
plastic substance anyway) ones - etc.   He has also added grease nipples,
and the gearing has been modified to enable the parts to be reached by the
grease.  Also the unit is more water tight.   The winch has a larger
capacity drum, and because its more efficient - its faster!  It also doesn't
get anywhere near as hot as many other electric winches, and most important
of all, it can pull a greater load!   Using a strain gauge (load cell) we
measured an easy pull of 3.22 Tonnes!

Out on the off-road course, we decided to give it a test by dragging GBH
(One of David's Land Rover 90's fitted with Detroit automatic diff lockers)
up a roughly 30 degree slope - with the breaks applied!   It did it without
any problem at all - dragging the 90 up the slope with the wheels locked!
So to make it more interesting, we attached my Series 3 LWB Landy to the
back of GBH -- Now the winch was straining a little - but it carried on
pulling!   Its a truly amazing thing.  -- Not terribly expensive either (at
less than 900 UK Pounds).

David kindly agreed to let me post an EXCLUSIVE Internet picture of the
winch as fitted to the front of his V8 90 - so if you are interested in what
it looks like, check out my Landy Web Page -
http://www.g7tgr.demon.co.uk/landy.html

Have Fun!

Best Regards,
Giles.

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 20:00:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Line sizes ?

Rob Horstman wrote:

> Size of the brake line that is proper for this application ( 3/16 "
> ?)

Correct - 3/16" and they are standard connectors on a '68.  The jobs
surprisinglyeasy.  The first brake lines I ever did were on my 109
"renovation".  They
work well (if I don't say so myself :) ).

Jeremy.

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 21:30:30 -0700
Subject: Re: fusebox and wiring harness

Ned Heite wrote:
> The original IIA Lucas fuse box is an atrocity. Two 35-amp fuses "protect"
> all the circuits, with a bunch of white input wires and green output wires,
> all passing through a single fuse.
> It would be much simpler to install a box with more terminals and many
> light fuses, but this is Lucasland. You can burn a lot of wiring before you
> blow a 35-amp fuse.

You can say that again.  Here.  Let me do it for you:  You can burn a lot of
wiring before you blow a 35-amp fuse.

I lost a whole wiring harness to that beast.  Smoldering wires all over the
place, but those beautiful fuses held up like champs!  (They're supposed to blow
and save your wires, dammit!).

If I was doing it again, I'd do what TeriAnn did:  design a new harness.  That
way you can fuse the hell out of it with new fuses that can be had anywhere.  

C

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 21:45:09 -0700
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever... (except I'll really answer!!!)

Jeez, the gentleman asks for help about the 4WD lever, and all you guys can do
is talk about paint!

Here's how the Little Yellow Knob works:

              =====
             |     |  <------ Yellow Knob
              =====
                |
                |   Pivot bolt & bushing go through here
                |          |
               +-+_________V______
               | |________()______|
               +-+               ||
                                 ||
                                 || <--gizmo on right

So, the idea is that when you push DOWN on the Little Yellow Knob, the Gizmo On
Right goes UP.  Then, when you put the T-case in neutral (Little Red Knob), the
spring pops the Little Yellow Knob back UP and the Gizmo On Right goes DOWN.
(See, TerriAnn, I finally read the Owners Manual!).

If you're stuck in 4WD because the Little Yellow Knob is DOWN, then you need the
Pivot Bolt and the Bushing for same (PNs 540842 & 230086, respectively).  Alas,
I've been unable to install them without removing the floor of my IIA, so unless
an abler mechanic can tell you a way to do it, you'll be pulling up both sides
of the front floor and the transmission tunnel cover.  Then you'll need to clean
the grunk out of the hole in the T-case for the pivot bolt.  The size of the
pivot bolt is really weird, and I think I ended up using a metric socket to get
it in.  Also, it was a tight fit for the socket.  In all, a rather grimey job. 
Be sure to get the pivot in just tight enough, but not too tight!

Lotsa Luck,
C

------------------------------

From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 11:11:31 +0200
Subject: Re: G10 Winch!  -- AMAZING!!!

At 02:30 11-6-98 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi!
>David kindly invited me over for a beer, and to play with his new winch -
>The G10.  This thing is absolutely incredible!   An X9 is brilliant, but for
>sheer performance the G10 knocks the spots off it.

-- snip --

Hi Giles,

You even use the writing style and subject layout of a real spammer.

Jan.

------------------------------

From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 06:33:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Clutch Problems

BEN_NIBALI wrote:

: The problem is clutch dragging, most notably after the car is good and warmed
: up. Engaging 1st always requires a bit of patience while the clutch spins
: down, and is sometimes impossible.

Ben,
   Adjust the pedal stop bolt on the pedal housing to allow about 1/16 inch
pedal freeplay. Or better yet, remove the pedal housing cover and adjust the
two jam nuts on the master cylinder rod to achieve the same result. In
effect, your master cylinder thinks the pedal is slightly depressed. This
gets worse as the vehicle warms up. Both adjustments can be found in that
inaccessible area behind the drivers front wheel, covered in debris. Good Luck
     
                                                            Hank Rutherford

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 06:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch Problems

BEN_NIBALI wrote:

: The problem is clutch dragging, most notably after the car is good and
warmed
: up. Engaging 1st always requires a bit of patience while the clutch spins
: down, and is sometimes impossible.

I've seen this one before - turned out to be a worn clutrch slave pushrod.
I had adjusted it to spec with the calipers, and it still dragged. Further
examination of the rod showed it was a bit worn on the end (like very), so
the adjustment spec went bye-bye and the clutch now works fine...

Oh, well...8*)

Seriously, try taking out on the slave pushrod adjustment a few turns. if
it helps, that points the way.

                                   ajr

------------------------------

From: Matt Wilson <GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 11:45:42 +0100
Subject: GB50LR @ Shugborough...

Over the weekend 27th - 28th June at the Shugborough Hall
Series I Club 50th anniversary event a Radio Amateur Special 
events station with the callsign GB50LR will be operating.

It will be operated at various times during the weekend 
on all H.F. bands, 2m, S.S.B. and FM.  You'll just have to 
listen for the C.Q, over the weekend, but that's going to
be part of the fun!

Packet Radio messages for GB50LR can also be sent over the
weekend via B.B.S. GB7RUG.

All contacts made throughout the weekend will receive a 
commemorative GB50LR QSL card.

Testing on the Friday while the station is set up will use 
the callsign GB5LR. Any licensed amateurs attending the 
Shugborough event are invited to help out running the station 
during the weekend.

Good luck and safe journey to all who are attending the show,
and we hope to hear all the 'hams on the air over the weekend.
Please do spread the word around and perhaps those with Land-Rover
or Radio Ham webpages could cut & paste the above to a page.
Thanks very much.

- Matt Wilson  
- GB50LR@zamboodle.demon.co.uk

1958 Series I 2 litre 88" Hardtop
1961 Series IIA one quarter mecanno set.

# All things dull & ugly,         
# All creatures short & squat,
# All things rude & nasty,
# The Lord God made the lot.

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 58 lines 2535 [forwarded 202 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1832 [content 1561  forwarded 149 (cut  53) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>