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From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:12:56 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: SI/SII shackle plates

For what it is worth, I've used SII shackle plates (and springs) on my
1955 86"  since I first replaced them some eight years ago. The only thing
you need to check is that the shackle plates and the nuts and bolts have
the same thread;  getting a complete set of the same vintage is probably
safest (and not too expensive, at least in the UK). 

Peter

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:13:43 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Rover camshaft question

Did someone say "camshaft replcaement"? I related some of my experiences of
last year with rebuilding my 3.5L in my 83 Range Rover with the MGB V8 BBS
recently, which generated some questions. Heres a copy of a reply I sent just
yesterday. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Cheers, Andy
Blackley

--part0_897394423_boundary
Content-ID: <0_897394423@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Mike : I used a Crane H-202/260-2S-12, Part #900531. This has an intake
duration of 2i60 deg, .270" lift, exhaust dur. of 268 deg, .270 lift. Lobe
seperation of 112 deg. Power range 1500 rpm to 4000 rpm for the 3.5 l engine,
recommended for 8.13 or 9.35:1 CR. I choose this as a good  cam for both off
road and on road use (its in a 83 Range Rover). I think that this is a good
"mild" cam for engines with stock valve gear. I had previously used an Isky
cam with much higher lift and was a little nervous about the longevity of the
rockers and valve stems, so I opted for this cam. 
I think they still make a 280 duration cam, but I am unsure of the part
number. Try asking for an H-218/280 Part # 900571. My source (Jim Allen, Land
Rover  & 4x4 expert, from an article in Rovers North newsletter) says this cam
has power range from 2000 to 4500 rpm, best cruise at 2600-3000 rpm, lift :
.280" intake, .290" exhaust. Some lumpy idle on 3.5 L engines, better on big
bore (3.9 +). This will give a total lift that may well exceed the stock valve
trains ability so be careful.
Anyhow you can call Crane in Florida at (904) 258-6174. Best part: only cost
$125, about 1/3 the price of a factory Rover cam, and much better made (IMHO).
In my opinion I'd stick to the lower end of the torque curve for street use
and relaxed driving with occasional bursts of speed. The 150 to 180+hp you'd
get from this cam and some mild tuning is plenty of power in an MGB, again
IMHO. The real problem is breathing, that is even the smallest Holley 4 barrel
is more carb than the 3.5 L really needs for most street uses. And you'll need
a free flow exhaust system as well.
Hope this helps, Cheers, Andy Blackley

--part0_897394423_boundary--

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:13:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Towing Capabilities

In a message dated 6/9/98 2:20:50 AM, you wrote:

>Also, are there any suggestions for modifications that I can perform to
>increase her trailering abilities?  Thanks in advance!!!

Uprate rear springs to help eliminate sag/rearward weight transfer, which
makes nose come up and car steers vague (if it already steers vague, beware!).
Check alignment, tires, pressures, etc.

Tandem axles on the trailer, with hydraulic brakes (surge brakes) on one axle
(one ought to be enough up to 4000ish pounds). The brakes help a lot when you
want to stop quickly ;-) and the tandem axles can make a flat tire experience
on the trailer less of a nightmare.

Check condition of rear x-member... dunno why, though?

Swap the engine for a Sulzer diesel. (Just kidding, those tow ships around at
idle.)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:17:18 EDT
Subject: Re:  Bolts vs Studs

In a message dated 6/8/98 8:06:11 PM, you wrote:

>studs also have higher shear strenght hope
>this helps.

So, *my* shear strength is higher? Than what? haha.

anon ;-)

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:31:23 -0400
Subject: Subject: Re: what to take with you

Talking about hose clamps Keith & Janet Mohlenhoff had their exhaust 
system on their Series, separate between the manifold and the silencer 
this weekend. Without even thinking, Keith picked up an old soda can, 
took off the top and the bottom with his knife and proceeded to wrap 
it around the pipe securing it with a couple of hose clamps. The whole 
operation took 5 minutes and lasted till he got home.
Peter Goundry
67 GS 109 IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 22:48:04 +1000
Subject: Whitworth Wrenches

Paul Quin wrote:
>I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any.
>What is special or different about them? Are they unique sizes or
>shapes?  Are they sized like other wrenches? (3/8, 1/2 etc...)

Actually, the Whitworth sizing system is quite logical once you know how it
was originally done.  Note I haven't said it was a good system, just
logical.

The dimension e.g. 3/8" Whit refers to the bolt diameter.  The across hex
measurement of the hex head bolt or nut is mathematically related to the
bolt diameter  I think it is twice the bolt diameter.   From that the
across-flats dimension can be calculated.   I just wish I could remember the
relationship ! It might be Root 2 (1.414) or Root 3 (1.732) or similar.   I
actually wrote all this up last year and posted it to the list but since
then I've had multiple disk crashes and reformats (Windows 95 says it all).

I'll have to get on to the web and search the info out.  It's all in a book
published by Model Engineer magazine or EMAP.

>Are they actually made by 'Whitworth', or is that just a generic name?

Sir Joseph Whitworth (1803-1887) was the name of the British engineer who
designed the system.  It was a good system.  The threads are 55 degrees with
rounded crests and troughs. UNF and UNC are 60 degrees like ISO metric
threads.

According  to Encyclopaedia Britannica, Whitworth was a master engineer who
built exceptionally fine machine tools (for the period).  By 1866 he
employed over 700 men and had a factory of over 600 machine tools.  He also
designed the Whitworth muzzle-loading rifle.

Someone else mentioned BA threads.  Good stuff.  I even have my BA taps and
dies I got as a trainee electronics tech back in 1965.  Very useful threads.
But have you checked out ME threads?  ME stands for Model Engineer - a
series of threads developed by that magazine, probably pre-WW1.  Oh, the
magazine still exists.   Anyone wanna buy a hundred or so back issues I
wanna get rid of.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 23:21:54 +1000
Subject: Whitworth Wrenches

Paul Quin wrote:
>I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any.
>What is special or different about them? Are they unique sizes or
>shapes?  Are they sized like other wrenches? (3/8, 1/2 etc...)

Actually, the Whitworth sizing system is quite logical once you know how it
was originally done.  Note I haven't said it was a good system, just
logical.

The dimension e.g. 3/8" Whit refers to the bolt diameter.  The across hex
measurement of the hex head bolt or nut is mathematically related to the
bolt diameter  I think it is twice the bolt diameter.   From that the
across-flats dimension can be calculated.   I just wish I could remember the
relationship ! It might be Root 2 (1.414) or Root 3 (1.732) or similar.   I
actually wrote all this up last year and posted it to the list but since
then I've had multiple disk crashes and reformats (Windows 95 says it all).

I'll have to get on to the web and search the info out.  It's all in a book
published by Model Engineer magazine or EMAP.

>Are they actually made by 'Whitworth', or is that just a generic name?

Sir Joseph Whitworth (1803-1887) was the name of the British engineer who
designed the system.  It was a good system.  The threads are 55 degrees with
rounded crests and troughs. UNF and UNC are 60 degrees like ISO metric
threads.

According  to Encyclopaedia Britannica, Whitworth was a master engineer who
built exceptionally fine machine tools (for the period).  By 1866 he
employed over 700 men and had a factory of over 600 machine tools.  He also
designed the Whitworth muzzle-loading rifle.

>From http://rylibweb.man.ac.uk/data2/spcoll/faun/

<quote>
Papers collected by Commander Bertram R. Faunthorpe in connection with an
intended biography of Sir Joseph Whitworth (1803-1887). Whitworth's
contributions in the fields of mechanical engineering and scientific
measurement were manifold: he invented a method of manufacturing truly plane
surfaces, conceived and developed a micrometer which was accurate to
two-millionths of an inch and, perhaps most significantly, devised a uniform
system of screw threads. At his extensive works in Openshaw, near
Manchester, Whitworth also experimented to improve the design of rifles and
artillery pieces. The business was converted into a limited liability
company in 1874, and in 1897 it merged with Armstrong's of Elswick. After
his death Whitworth's executors donated £118,000 to found the chair of
engineering and establish laboratories at Owens College, Manchester.
Papers include material on Whitworth's work on firearms and screw threads,
notes on the history of the engineering industry, copies of articles by or
about Whitworth, photographs, and papers relating to Whitworth's estate at
Stancliffe in Darley Dale, Derbyshire. Among the latter are a farm stock
book, a quarry stock book and Joseph Dawson's letter-books. <unquote>

Someone else mentioned BA threads.  Good stuff.  I even have my BA taps and
dies I got as a trainee electronics tech back in 1965.  Very useful threads.
But have you checked out ME threads?  ME stands for Model Engineer - a
series of threads developed by that magazine, probably pre-WW1.  Oh, the
magazine still exists.   Anyone wanna buy a hundred or so back issues I
wanna get rid of.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:28:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

.  Note I haven't said it was a good system, just
>logical.
Suffered,like a lot of things,by being first.Its always easy enough to
improve on what's gone before,but infinitely more difficult to innovate.
>But have you checked out ME threads?  ME stands for Model Engineer - a
>series of threads developed by that magazine, probably pre-WW1.
Arent they lovely for small steam fittings,though:-)

Oh, the
>magazine still exists.
Started in 1899.The worlds oldest (hobby?) magazine.

I confess I cant really understand what all the fuss about Whit/BSF is.
Basically,to a mechanic,the bolt heads are a certain size and need a
spanner to fit them.The difficulty,I can appreciate in certain circs,
is to actually *find* said spanner,or spanners.(Coincidentally,I bought
a set of Whit combination spanners at a tool sale this weekend for
under £6 the set.)
Confusion *really* sets in when people like the old Massey Ferguson setup
re-invent the wheel,so to speak,and build combine harvesters with their
*own* bolt sizes and A/F sizes so that no spanner in the known universe
will fit.In which case,if I recall,one use an adjustable.And a hammer.
Nuff sed.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:25:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

On Tue, 9 Jun 1998, Mike Rooth wrote:

> .  Note I haven't said it was a good system, just
> >logical.
> Suffered,like a lot of things,by being first.Its always easy enough to
> improve on what's gone before,but infinitely more difficult to innovate.

There is nothing wrong with Whitworth stuff.  It has some things going for
it over ISO/UN even.  I have been told that they have better holding power
than anything until specialized variable pitch stuff was developed for
aviation use.  

> I confess I cant really understand what all the fuss about Whit/BSF is.
> Basically,to a mechanic,the bolt heads are a certain size and need a
> spanner to fit them.The difficulty,I can appreciate in certain circs,
> is to actually *find* said spanner,or spanners.(Coincidentally,I bought

The problem is  that bolts don't last forever.  If you have tried to find
a Whitworth or BA fastner in the US, you know it is damm near impossible.  

David

------------------------------

From: Matthew Clavey <THE_MACINTOSH_CONSULTANCY@compuserve.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 11:55:43 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe

x

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:18:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

In a message dated 98-06-08 15:12:59 EDT, you write:

<< If you really want to spend
 money, Snap-On sells sockets, but not wrenches.  (or they did six years
 ago)
  >>
Don't know about then, but they sell BOTH sockets and combination wrenches
now.  And like you said, they are expensive.  But when I needed them, they
were the only source I had and I do think the quality is worth the bucks.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: West <GebietWest@ATELCO.DE>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 18:23:02 +0200
Subject: RE: Towing Capabilities

> drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net> writes 
> Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 02:15:26 -0400
> Subject: Re: Towing Capabilities
>   > Hi All:
>   >    Does anyone know what the rated towing ability is for a 66 109
> 2.25 5
>   > door?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> OLi
> 1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "everyday transport" slow & smokey  

------------------------------

From: Trevor Easton <bluerover@unforgettable.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 12:31:20 -0400
Subject: Charity Toy Run - Canada

A date for your calendar. The Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada hosts the

annual toy run for Operation Santa Claus, September 27, 1998.
Sponsored by Land Rover Canada.
Come out and support the run and show the flag for LROs. Starts at
Milton Regional Museum.
See http://www3.sympatico.ca/msccc/XMASPART.HTM for details.
Tom Tollefson is coming with his 101 to transport Santa and the Elves.
We are looking for a deactivated or dummy Rapier and trailer so Tom can
have some Christmas missile-tow. Anyone on the list can help out?
British High Commision drew a blank but they may be coming with a Wolf
TUL  if the red tape can be worked around.

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 13:06:01 -0400
Subject: Double S

Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com> wrote:

>Does anybody have any experience with 'Double S' exhaust systems? I
>remember seeing photos in LROI of a Stage I with a Double S stainless
>steel exhaust kit, .....looked pretty nice. 

I ordered a complete system from Rovers North a while back.  Ended up
welding the intermediate pipe flange three times and the muffler four
times.  (The flanges were palin ol' carbon steel and the pipes were , well,
something different. Despite being advertised as "stainless" and
"lifetime," it wasn't.  It rusts and a magnet sticks to it.  I don't know
what kind of steel they were using, but it certainly wasn't 304 or 316
stainless.  This wasn't Rovers North fault, though.

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:12:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Towing Capabilities

Opps!  It's a Petrol.  Sorry about that.

Drew Squires
drewteri@concentric.net
66 109 (Still getting dressed)

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:01:43 -0500
Subject: To buy an overdrive or not?

Does anyone have any views on which is the better overdrive - the
Fairy/Superwinch unit or the Santana unit.  I spoke to Mohammed at
Roverland/Europarts yesterday and apparently he can get the latter unit - I
do not know the price as yet.  The best deal on the Superwinch unit appears
to be $799 at British Pacific, but if you know another source I'd love to
hear about it.

David Hope
64llA without at o/d

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:08:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Towing Capabilities

?????  Did I miss something?  Where's the message?  Is it me or did it get
sucked up by hungry electrons?

Drew Squires
drewteri@concentric.net
66 109 (Still Getting Dressed)

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:53:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs

In a message dated 09/06/98  13:20:48, you write:

 >studs also have higher shear strenght hope
 >this helps.
 So, *my* shear strength is higher? Than what? haha.
 
 anon ;-) >>

So Pat, ahem I mean Anon,

your nuts can be unscrewed? Rather you than me, boy (but for how long?)

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:54:05 EDT
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

On Mon, 8 Jun, 1998, Richard Marsden wrote:

"One (Freelander) has appeared in the car park at work.  Everyday this past
week, he/she (don't know who's it is) has parked next to me!  (I'm the only
Series owner)"

So, Richard, when can we expect a litter of tonka toy Land Rovers?

Paul
1965 109

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 22:25:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs

So Pat, ahem I mean Anon,

>your nuts can be unscrewed? Rather you than me, boy (but for how long?)
>best cheers, Frank

Wouldnt that be painful, or do you take a lot of painkillers?

EY

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 18:10:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs

In a message dated 09/06/98  22:36:16, you write:

 >your nuts can be unscrewed? Rather you than me, boy (but for how long?)
 >best cheers, Frank
 
 Wouldnt that be painful, or do you take a lot of painkillers?
  >>

my point, Elwyn m'boy, my point exactly.

frank

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 16:26:58 -0500
Subject: Re:  Is is possible to get a 130 HCPU in from Costa Rica?

At 10:04 PM 6/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>When I was in Panama in February, I saw a NICE brand-new 130 HCPU crew cab
>model at the LR dealer in Panama City.  I have no idea how much they wanted
>for it.

I have seen  one of those in the dealership here, some time ago. They sell 
every model there exists.

>I assume you're in NA.  This vehicle was obviously not US spec, so I reckon
>you'd be up against all the same red tape as if you wanted to import one from
>England, with the sole advange of being able to drive it home (if you're into
>high adventure) instead of shipping it. 
>Bill

Costa Rica has just recently approved legislation to minimize air pollution 
from motor vehicles. Every new car that comes into the country has to be 
equipped with catalytic converters and other HP-eater stuff. What I don't know 
is if the values 
given here are the same that have to be met in the USA. 
Probably, but I would have to check out, for simpler factory orders, they get 
the cars with the same specs they do for NA. Other dealers (non LR) do it this 
way.
I dont think Costa Rican market is huge enough for making a Costa Rican 
version. Not with this prices. 
RR- US$100.000
Basic Disco- US$55.000
etc.
>I assume you're in NA.  This vehicle was obviously not US spec, so I reckon
LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
Departamento Legal - JCCCSA
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 17:12:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches (What???!!)

What was that you said about bolts and wrenches?
Or was it about something else?

At 02:10 PM 6/8/98 -0500, you wrote:

On Mon, 8 Jun 1998, Paul Quin wrote:

I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any. What is 
special or different about them?
	[ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)] Are they unique sizes or shapes? 
 Are they sized like other wrenches?
>> (3/8, 1/2 etc...)  Or maybe numbered like screwdrivers?

Whitworth bolts are sized by the distance across the threads, and by the
number of threads per inch, just like SAE bolts.  HHowever, the wrenches
are sized this way too, instead of across the flats, liek for everything
else.  So a 3/8 whit wrench is much bigger than a 3/8 SAE one, which still
causes me problems.  The across flats whitworth measurements are all
really weird., and at some point it was deided that the bolt heads were
too big for the bolts, and the next smaller size head was used.  These are
British Standard, technically, and are mostly what the Land-Rover
>"Whitworth" bolts are.  These come in two sets of thread pitches, coarse
>and fine.  The fine threads are unique to BSF stuff, so you have to use
>them where they were originally.  The coarse, however, happen to be the
>same rates as american united coarse, with the exception of 1/2: which is
>13 tpi and the UNC 12 tpi.  This means that you will find will find UNC
>stuff where there ought to be BS stuff, and vice versa.  You shouldn't do
>this though, because the two standards have different thread form(60
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
>ago)
>David/mr sinclair.
LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
Departamento Legal - JCCCSA
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 19:36:51 EDT
Subject: Re:  Double S

In a message dated 6/9/98 1:06:02 PM, you wrote:

>(The flanges were palin ol' carbon steel and the pipes were , well,
>something different. Despite being advertised as "stainless" and
>"lifetime," it wasn't.  It rusts and a magnet sticks to it.  I don't know
>what kind of steel they were using, but it certainly wasn't 304 or 316
>stainless.

True, the flanges were (are) probably 400-series stainless, which *is*
magnetic. Welded 316 stainless tube/pipe was probably too brittle for the
first flange, the heat cycling would only make it worse, as would repeated
fording dunks into cooling water, right? So that's probably why they used p-o-
s (plain ol' steel) flanges; maybe cost too, SS plate is harder to machine, in
that it has to be re-passivated afterwards to maintain its stainlessness.

I am following this thread as I anticipate having to start replacing exhaust
bits from the tail, forward, in the next year or two. 

My options:

1) Get Genuine Crap
2) Get Aftermarket Crap
3) Have suitable steel tubing bent to follow original's route, source my own
mufflers (primary & tail), do necessary clamping/welding, have the lot Jet-Hot
(ceramic) Coated.
4) See what happens from stainless thread and maybe get that. (Although, it
seems british exhaust manufacturers don't list a 3.9 EFI for the 110, with the
US cats... maybe the V8 110s over there have a different system...)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Oellermann" <marko@vrt.com.au>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:01:52 +1000
Subject: Re: Timing Problems

> I'm having problems keeping the timing adjusted on my '59 sii88. The engine 
> (2.25l) runs fine after adjusting the timing with a light (6 degrees BTDC), 
> but within 100 miles of driving the timing has slipped again (many degrees 
> after TDC). The distributor is fairly new (3-4 years old). Points, 
> condensor, cap, rotor are all new. Timing chain, etc. were recently 
> inspected and seemed fine. The two bolts holding the distributor are tight. 
> Any other ideas on what I should try? Setting the timing once a week is 
> getting to be a real pain!

Jim, 

Sorry, no answers to your questions - just a similar experience. I
encountered the same thing a couple of years ago with my 2.25l '76
SIII 109". When I bought it everything seemed to be running fine.
I'd only had it for a few weeks and then gave it a tune up before
heading out for the first big trip. After a couple of hours drive we
noticed a red glow on the floor in the cab coming through a hole in
the firewall, but the engine temp was still normal. We stopped and
found that the exhaust manifold was glowing bright red. After a bit
of fiddling around we worked out what was going on and adjusted the
spark timing back to fix the problem and carried on OK for a couple
more hours.

Over the weekend it slowly deteriorated faster and faster until we
got to the stage of having to stop and adjust the distributor just
about every time we wanted to go anywhere - got some bemused looks
whenever we pulled up for a quick tune by ear on the beach! Final
result was that we finished the weekend and made it part way home
before we could turn the distributor no more. I had been planning on
changing over to a Holden 6 when I bought it, so when I got home the
2.25 was pulled out for a replacement. 

I too had checked all the bits and pieces and couldn't see where it
could possibly be moving. I'd be interested to hear what the problem
is - if its a simple fix then I s'pose I should have a 2.25 in almost
good running order under my house looking for a new home!

Mark Oellermann.
Queensland, Australia
________________________

Mark Oellermann
Senior Systems Engineer
VRT Systems
Phone:	+617 3367 1388
Fax:	+617 3367 1295
E-mail:	marko@vrt.com.au
Web:	www.vrt.com.au
________________________

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 18:01:08 -0500
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

>On Mon, 8 Jun, 1998, Richard Marsden wrote:
>"One (Freelander) has appeared in the car park at work.  Everyday this past
>week, he/she (don't know who's it is) has parked next to me!  (I'm the only
>Series owner)"
>So, Richard, when can we expect a litter of tonka toy Land Rovers?
>Paul

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Paul
>1965 109

What are you talking about? That would be RAPE!!
No 2* year old shoul be messing around with a less than 1 year old.
You got to put a stop to this!! Or you will be charged as an accesory to rape.

>On Mon, 8 Jun, 1998, Richard Marsden wrote:
>"One (Freelander) has appeared in the car park at work.  Everyday this past
LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
Departamento Legal - JCCCSA
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 19:25:56 -0500
Subject: Re:  Whitworth Wrenches

Although unlikely, it is within the realm of possibilities that a few
Whitworth tools might turn up at an auto jumble or junk sale.  Whitworth
sizes are identified by the a "W" behind the units, i.e. "3/8W".  British
Standard tools are likewise identified by a little "BS" (no tasteless
jokes, please) behind the unit.  Moss Motors in California offers a
selection of tools (spanners and sockets) which conform to these standards.
 As someone previously noted, Snap-On offers BS sockets and I was told that
Mac Tools also can provide them yet I have never confirmed this.  If you go
the flea market route, good luck hunting! 

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W.

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 21:17:25 -0400
Subject: ser 2 v 2A blocks.

Nate, I am sorry but I am unable to confirm the interchangability of the
petrol engine pistons in the blocks. It is many years since we experienced
the problem with using a 2 block for a diesel. I think the difference is
something equivalent to the thickness osf a head gasket,  It will be
necessary to make some careful measurements of the appropriate parts to
confirm the parts interchangeability and I no longer have a lkarge range of
parts to measure.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 21:20:56 -0400
Subject: re - my clutch sucks

Ben, a very common problem with ser 2 clutches is the linkage between the
slave cylinder and the release mechanism. The shafts are connected by a
short tube which is cross drilled to take two quarter inch diameter pins.
These pins often shear thus a lot of the pedal travel is lost due to the
increase in backlash in the linkage. I would therefore recommend a close
look at this area.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 21:22:35 -0400
Subject: clutch sucking

Sorry just re read the message and realise now that you mean it really
sucks, not just lousy performance.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 21:27:18 -0400
Subject: Whitworth

Whitworth ( Joseph I think ) was a pioneer who stadardised screw threads a
long time ago, prior to him there were no common thread sizes.
 The spanners ( or wrenches ) are similar to the spanners for metric or
unified bolt heads, the difference is in  the accross flats ( a/f )  of the
hexagon material used to make the fitting.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 21:56:57 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Timing Problems

(In both cases) could it have been a faulty advance mechanism? Maybe if there
was crud in the vacuum line, or the advance plate was sticking, who knows, it
certainly doesn't sound like the body of the distributor was rotating (that
would be easy to spot). Does the drive ever wear? maybe when the engine gets
hot it expands enough to create play; sounds unlikely, though.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 22:24:56 EDT
Subject: Re:  Whitworth Wrenches

In a message dated 6/9/98 8:34:53 PM, you wrote:

>British
>Standard tools are likewise identified by a little "BS" (no tasteless
>jokes, please) behind the unit

Awww, c'mon, Brian... I know I'm not the only one dying to make a gratuitous &
tasteless "BS behind the unit" joke here. Well on second thoughts, maybe I
am... ;-)

What's a whit worth when it isn't worth a whit? A half whit, maybe?

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 22:25:52 -0400
Subject: Summer Travels...

Well, I've been researching and listening to the list to see exactly
what I'm getting myself into, and I got a rover... I'm planning on flying
to Indianapolis to pick it up and then driving to Memphis (actually,
Hernando) to visit family and recover from the trip before I make it
back to NYC. Anyway, I was wondering if there were any rover people
in memphis in case something happens and I need to get some input
or something. Not that I'm expecting it, but you never know.

Thanks...

-Scott Wilson
 http://www.scratchstudio.com/rover

------------------------------

From: Arthur Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 00:27:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Sandblasting Al?

Greetings,

I plan on blasting some stuff with baking soda. I have an old article from
"Hot Rod" where they used such a medium and it leaves the surface as if it
were sanded with 400 grit paper - perfect for steel panels but I don't know
about aluminum.

It has several advantages over other compounds:

1. It does NOT damage rubber, glass, chrome at all! You can leave it on.
2. It is environmentally safe - just hose it off your driveway.
3. Cheap. But I have to check if regular baking soda is used or if it has
any additives.

I don't know about walnut shells? Seems a much harder compound.

Art.
'72 S3 88 (V8 project soon)
'69 TR6 PI
Boston, MA  USA

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:10:12 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: 109" hoop/canvas set

A Smith wrote:
: I just bought a 109 hoop set with full soft top out of the UK
: what i'm looking for is a picture or exploded view of the hoop set to 
: assemble mine 

I am interested in where you bought your hoop/canvas set from (and what you 
paid 
if you bought it from a specific company)

I am also interested in getting a copy of the installation or assembly 
instructions if someone comes up with the information.

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:20:23 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: My Clutch Sucks

BEN_NIBALI wrote:

: The problem is clutch dragging, most notably after the car is good and warmed
: up. Engaging 1st always requires a bit of patience while the clutch spins
: down, and is sometimes impossible.

As I posted here recently, in addition to checking all the clutch hydraulics 
 hydraulics check the gearbox input shaft spigot bearing is not siezed. This 
will give very similar symptoms to a dragging clutch.

Unfortunately it is not the easiest part to check !

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:25:19 +0100
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

"The World's First FFR Freelander"?

I haven't seen it for a couple of days - perhaps it was a visitor?

Richard(ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

DONOHUEPE@aol.com on 06/09/98 08:54:05 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: That little yellow lever...

On Mon, 8 Jun, 1998, Richard Marsden wrote:
"One (Freelander) has appeared in the car park at work.  Everyday this past
week, he/she (don't know who's it is) has parked next to me!  (I'm the only
Series owner)"
So, Richard, when can we expect a litter of tonka toy Land Rovers?
Paul
1965 109

------------------------------

From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:31:29 +0100
Subject: Fuel Gauge - exponential???

A quick (ish) question about the fuel gauge on my SWB petrol SIII - if I
fill her up the first half-tank gets used up in the blink of an eye
(relatively) and the last quarter-tank seems to last for ages in comparison.

Now, if the fuel sender arm is pivoted at the top (I haven't actually
looked), then as the fuel level drops, the actual VERTICAL movement of the
arm will be something like exponential (more vertical movement at the top
of the tank - less towards the bottom). 

If that's the case then the point where my fuel gauge reads half-full (or
half empty depending on your outlook on life!!) is not actually reflecting
a half-full tank, shouldn't the half-tank point be lower down the gauge??

Alternatively it could just be that I glance at the fuel gauge more
frequently when I know there's not loads in it and so it SEEMS to last
longer - any thoughts??

If my 'exponential' theory is right are there any geniuses out there who'd
like to propose cures?? (A vertical bar with a free-moving floating collar
for the sender??).

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 09:35:43 +0100
Subject: D90 stalks => SIII???

As the subject line suggests I'd like to know if the indicator stalk and
steering column cowl from a D90 can be (easily) fitted to my SIII. The
switch on my current stalk is on it's way out ( when I flash my headlights
the indicator goes!!).

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 10:31:34 +0100
Subject: RE: D90 stalks => SIII???

Not sure but I doubt it, a case of having to fit in with the wiring loom in
the dashboard.

------------------------------

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