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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:45:11 -0400
Subject: Trip to the holy land (LLRC)

David, bring 2 suitcases completely empty so that you can fill them 
with spares to bring back. You can visit a laundry every few days to 
wash the clothes on your back! There will be a fair few of us at 
Billings as R.O.V.E.R.S http://calypso.math.udel.edu/rovers/  and WCRC 
http://members.aol.com/wcrover/  are having a joint trip to Billings 

Billings on the Saturday
Peter Goundry
67 GS 109 IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:47:30 -0500
Subject: fusebox and wiring harness

The original IIA Lucas fuse box is an atrocity. Two 35-amp fuses "protect"
all the circuits, with a bunch of white input wires and green output wires,
all passing through a single fuse.

It would be much simpler to install a box with more terminals and many
light fuses, but this is Lucasland. You can burn a lot of wiring before you
blow a 35-amp fuse.

When I first got Baby, the old soft plastic cover was cracked and wouldn't
stay on. I ordered a replacement fuse box, and received a substitute with
more fuses than the original. Apparently this larger box is intended for
newer Land Rovers.

Purist twit that I was in those early days, I returned the non-authentic
box and shopped around. The two-fuse box was used on several other English
cars, and I was able to get the actual, authentic, original Lucas model
from a supplier who caters to those little flat crumple zones with the
wicker baskets on the back.

Boy, was that dumb. I should have installed a bigger fuse box. When I
installed my new British Wiring harness, the many close-spaced fingers on
the old-style box were a complete pain in the tukus.

As for wiring color codes, any two wiring diagrams will disagree. There
must be hundreds of variants, but Lesley at British Wiring is an angel of
mercy. She faxed me a more appropriate diagram in a matter of minutes.

And don't forget to fish the body wires through the frame from the rear
axle to the front. And be sure to replace the grommets.

And watch what you snip. The replacement harness does not include the
little pigtails in the dash area.

    _____
___(_____)
|"Baby"  \                               The winner is the
|1969 Land\_===__                        one who dies with
|IIA__Rover   ___|o                      the most toys.
|_/ . \______/ . ||
___\_/________\_/____________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no>
Date: 08 Jun 1998 13:45:51 +0200
Subject: Re: Overdrive & thanks

François ADAMS <francois.adams@wanadoo.fr> writes:

> Could you tell me more about overdrive ?

We can but try :-)
> I mean, I would like to know how it appears once fitted in the car , How
> do you use it ? Is it giving you a fifth gear, or is it like another
> transfer gear , giving you four more gears ? 

It is another, separate, gearbox, giving you 2x the number of
gears you have already - it is only supposed to be used in 3rd and 4th, 
though, but in _theory_ you will end up with 16 forward and 4 reverse
speeds :-)
> What difference in reduction is there between the normal fourth and the
> "overdrive" ? (Please give an example like "1500 RPM  fourth = 60 Km/h,
> 1000 RPM Ovedrive = 75 KM/H ) (Or tell me the value of a mile in
> kilmeters :-) ) 

In 4th I think you'll get 27km/h/1000rpm without an overdrive. 
You'll get 34km/h/1000rpm with the overdrive engaged. 
(or thereabouts, anyway)

> And also very practical info : Do you switch the overdrive while driving
> ? Do you have to choose before starting like for high/low on transfer ?
> Is the overdrive active while on low transfer ?

It's fully synchronized, so you can engage the overdrive when moving,
and, yes, it works in all gears (it actually connects between the main
and transfer gearbox, so it doesn't "know" what gear you've selected).
> Another question : I see the advantages, what are the dtrawbacks ??
> ? Do you have to choose before starting like for high/low on transfer ?

Price - new ones are fairly expensive (almost 500GBP last time I looked - 
for this price you can (almost) get one of the gearbox specialists in
Enland to change your high-rate gearing).
They _can_ be noisy (I gave up mine, it whined too much)
Expensive parts - buying a used one is probably not a good idea.
Not very rugged - should be used with care, and preferably only
in 3rd and 4th gear.

On the plus side: they are easy to use, and fairly easy to 
install (2-3 hours, probably)

-- 
---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW 21/4 Petrol - "Lillebil"

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:50:17 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: looking for the horn

DaveB intones:
: I don't know about the 110 but the SIII has the horn at the end of the 
: indicator stalk. Push *in* for the hooter. When enraged you just pound the 
: steering wheel for visual effect.

My favourite horn position was in my AlfaSud. Erm, let me rephrase that.

The horn was on the stalk as usual, however was activated by pulling towards 
the 
driver, much like the main beam (flash) switch which was on the the side.

The benefits of this layout was when some idiot pulled out of a side road, 
causing me to perform some sort of emergency stop to avoid rear ending 
aforesaid 
cretin, an emergency stop could be performed, with both horn and main beam 
firmly engaged, without removing any hands from the wheel.

Got to hand it to the Italian designers ;-) 

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:56:36 -0400
Subject: Trip to the holy land (LLRC)

Sorry for the re-post, I think the weekend was a bad time to send the original.

LLRC=limited Land Rover Content

Sorry for the cross post and the limited LR content.

My wife and I are travelling to England (the holy land ;-)) and Scotland
(where pagans like Spenny and me are from) this July for vacation. We're
planning to leave London immediately and travel West, to Cornwall. Then, up
the west side of England to Scotland. We'll wander around Scotland and back
down to England for the last Saturday of Billing. We have a few days after
that when I think we'll be in London.

I'm wondering if anone has any tips/suggestions/advice about where to
go/what to bring, etc. Of course, I'd love to have a couple of pints with
anyone on the list!

Then, a week after our return, I'm travelling to Liège, Belgium on
business. I'll be in Liège from the 4th-8th of August and would like to
stay through the weekend. Any suggestions?

TIA

Cheers!

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB), red, green, orange, natural
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

------------------------------

From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 14:18:02 +0200
Subject: Series I and II shackle plates

Hi

Can anyone give me the part numbers and differences between the shackle
plates for series I and II, SWB and LWB? Are all SWB shackle plates equal,
so that I can use SII plates on an SI? Likewise with LWB?

Thanks

Wouter  

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 10:14:23 EDT
Subject: Re: 2 v 2a

In a message dated 6/7/98 8:37:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wleacock@pipeline.com writes:

<< The block is also slightly differtent, the distance from the center line of
 the crank to the top of the block is shorter on a 2 than on a 2a, trivial
 until you try to use a 2 block in a diesel when the pistons hit the head !!!
<< The block is also slightly differtent, the distance from the center line of

Bill

Does this mean a rebuild on a SII block requires SII pistons (not IIA) if
pistons have to be replaced? This will have practical ramifications for me
when the Brick's engine needs a rebuild.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 09:12:43 -0500
Subject: That little yellow lever...

I saw the messages a while back about people getting their 4WH
lever stuck, and I thought "Ahah! I'll be sure not to touch
that bit of the "new" Rover until I've inspected enough to
make sure that doesn't happen to me."  And, of course, I
didn't count on curious children with idle hands.  Equally as
predictably, I didn't save any of those messages.  I'm sure
this is an FAQ, but since the FAQ links from the team.net LRO
pages lead into the great abyss, I'm turning to the list.
What's the magic incantation for freeing this beastie up, and
how many parts of my new acquisition will I become far to
intimate with in the process?
							-MM

(Who has learned that a NATO camouflage Rover is quite the
 attraction to children of all ages.  Including, I suppose,
 himself.)

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:19:06 -0400
Subject: Schibe

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:

><< schibe >>
>here we go again - wot mean please?

I presume it's a reference to Earl "I'll paint any car for $29.95" Schibe.
A national chain of auto body and paint shops.  While his prices have gone
up since the 1960's, you can still imagine what a $29.95 paint job would
lok like...body, bumper, chrome, tires and glass all the same color....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 15:27:25 +0100
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

>(Who has learned that a NATO camouflage Rover is quite the
> attraction to children of all ages.  Including, I suppose,
> himself.)
"Is it *really*  Army?"
"Can I have a ride?"
       (will future owners be branded paedeophiles I wonder?)

or once when I stopped at a Service Station. Next to a campervan I think.
Kid asks his father - is it a real army car/truck/whatever. Reply, "No, its
one that's painted to look like one".
At which point I mentioned its "pedigree".

Speaking of pedigree, perhaps there is something to LR's advertising blurb
about the Freelander's pedigree.  One has appeared in the car park at work.
Everyday this past week, he/she (don't know who's it is)
has parked next to me!  (I'm the only Series owner)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 10:27:05 -0400
Subject: My Clutch Sucks

The subject line above is both an accurate description of the symptom, and
a general statement of performance.

I'm resurrecting a '65 IIA 88" HT with a 2.25 Petrol.  The problem is
clutch dragging, most notably after the car is good and warmed up.
Engaging 1st always requires a bit of patience while the clutch spins down,
and is sometimes impossible- requiring me to shut the engine off, engage
1st, and restart with the clutch pedal depressed.  I have rebuilt both the
master and slave cylinders.  I suspect maybe air in the line is preventing
complete disengagement, but I recently bled the system and I don't seem to
be losing any fluid.   However, I do hear a sucking sound coming from the
general area of the slave cylinder whenever I let up on the clutch pedal
rapidly.  If I release the clutch pedal slowly- nothing.  But a rapid
return and I hear a definite suck.  Nothing else affects the sucking-
engine can be running or not, hot or cold.  It just sucks every time.  It
sucked before I rebuilt the slave and it sucks now.

My current theory is a tiny cut in my flex line which won't let fluid out
but will take in air when a little vacuum (???) is created by letting up
the pedal.  Anyone ever have this symptom or have a flex line fail in this
way?  Could this be causing the clutch to drag or should I be looking
elsewhere?

-Ben Nibali

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 15:29:10 +0100
Subject: Re: Schibe

>up since the 1960's, you can still imagine what a $29.95 paint job >would
>lok like...body, bumper, chrome, tires and glass all the same >color....
And *what's* wrong with that? :-)

Okay the glass and most of the tyres are without paint.

And last year I went up-market and painted the bumpers white....

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR in green & beige)

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:34:44 -0700 
Subject: RE: My Clutch Sucks

Ben,
Check the flex hose on the slave cylinder.
Older hoses will sometimes "swell" internally and act as a check valve.

Tony Treace
atreace@hasimons.com

1967 109 SW
1951 80 HT

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 15:53:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Schibe

 you can still imagine what a $29.95 paint job would
>lok like...body, bumper, chrome, tires and glass all the same color....

Wasnt ever in the British Army,was he Sandy?

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:34:51 EDT
Subject: Re:  Schibe

In a message dated 6/8/98 10:21:33 AM, you wrote:

>While his prices have gone
>up since the 1960's, you can still imagine what a $29.95 paint job would
>lok like...body, bumper, chrome, tires and glass all the same color....

A great deal if you have a *Pink Panther*... ;-) body, bumper, tires... don't
know about chrome on one of those though... 

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 17:42:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters, or, flirting with disaster

: Curious?
: After all that surgury, What, in your opinion would be the best brand
: filter for consider?

Actually I included it in my first draft of my response but left it off to cool 
down the heat of the tag flaming ;-)

Drum roll please ..... it was a Fram !!!!

Disclaimer - This was the best of the pattern ones I broke open. but I'm not 
prepared to expose the runners up, sorry.

Remember too this was a few years ago during my impoverished youth and 

a) Some of the manufacturers of the runner up filters may have gone bust.
b) Fram quality may have gone downhill since then, but I have not empirically 
tested since.
c) Fram are still making aftermarket filters .....

YMMV

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:41:53 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Schibe

In a message dated 6/8/98 10:59:47 AM, you wrote:

>you can still imagine what a $29.95 paint job would
>>lok like...body, bumper, chrome, tires and glass all the same color....
>Wasnt ever in the British Army,was he Sandy?

Don't know for sure, but *Earl* Schibe, he's probably a distant relative of
the Queen. Earl Schibe from the House of Schibe. Painter of Carriages, by
appointment to Sherwin Williams...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <lr3uk@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 16:51:16 +0100
Subject: Lockright Automatic Locking Diffs - Rover Axel

Dear All

Can anyone help?

A freind may soon be buying a "Lockright Automatic Locking Differential for
a Rover Axel".  Can anyone give me any info/personal use of/reccomendations
about it.

It is still in the box, brand new, never used and the AP is £300. Urgent
please?

Elwyn
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
S3 '72 Lightweight. Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:56:11 EDT
Subject: Warning to Ye who rebuild IIa Gearboxes!

Hi all,

Anybody here on the list rebuilding IIa gearboxes or thinking of it, please
note:

If you are replacing the bearing on the primary pinion, which is NLA according
to RN, do yourself a favor.  If you don't have a press, take it to someone who
does.  There are threads for the special left hand nut on the primary pinion
which will be easily damaged if you try to drift the bearing on and it is not
absolutely straight.  I was lucky, the machine shop could fix the threads, but
it could have been worse.

Hate to think about trying to source a good used primary pinion....

Nate

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 16:59:04 +0000
Subject: Re:  Re: Schibe

>Don't know for sure, but *Earl* Schibe, he's probably a distant relative of
>the Queen.

What,along with Earl Hines and Duke Ellington?:-)

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Clark, Patrick D." <Clark_PD@pillsburylaw.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 09:04:42 -0700 
Subject: RE: My Clutch Sucks

Don't I feel for you-- I have the exact same problem on My '65 IIA 88"
SW, although I am relatively new to the vehicle and have not had the
time to attempt any fix.  Interesting to note that I have no problem
until she's good and warm-- then all hell breaks loose. I don't have to
resort to shutting down-- but I do have to spin the clutch at rpm to get
away from a dead stop...........very interested to see if anyone has
solved this most annoying bugger. 

> Subject:	My Clutch Sucks
> The subject line above is both an accurate description of the symptom,
> and
> a general statement of performance.
> I'm resurrecting a '65 IIA 88" HT with a 2.25 Petrol.  The problem is
> clutch dragging, most notably after the car is good and warmed up.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 12:41:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Schibe

In a message dated 6/8/98 12:39:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk writes:

<< >Don't know for sure, but *Earl* Schibe, he's probably a distant relative
of
 >the Queen.
 What,along with Earl Hines and Duke Ellington?:-) >>
And lest we forget the Dukes of Hazard...

Nate

------------------------------

From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 12:46:25 -0400
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

At 03:27 PM 6/8/98 +0100, you wrote:

>>(Who has learned that a NATO camouflage Rover is quite the
>> attraction to children of all ages.  Including, I suppose,
>> himself.)

  Speaking of which, does anyone have a DuPont (or other) paint code for
that NATO green?

Jeff G.
Boston, MA

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 18:50:14 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Extra - Fram filter info.

I searched out the following URLs for some info about Fram filters.
Seems they have been filtering since 1936 !

http://www.alliedsignal.com/business/apg/products/filters.html
http://www.alliedsignal.com/business/apg/aftereur/brands/fram/index.htm

Cheers, 

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 10:06:51 -0700 
Subject: Whitworth Wrenches

I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any.

What is special or different about them?

Are they unique sizes or shapes?  Are they sized like other wrenches?
(3/8, 1/2 etc...)  Or maybe numbered like screwdrivers?

I have come across several bolts on my vehicle that do not seem to fit
either imperial or metric wrenches, and I assume that these are meant
for Whitworth wrenches.  Am I right?

Are they actually made by 'Whitworth', or is that just a generic name?
Where can they be bought in North America?

I've been able to get by without them so far, but if I ever have to
delve into something that needs a little more precision, like the
transmission or the engine guts, then I should probably pick up a set.

Tx.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:10:22 EDT
Subject: V8 camshaft replacement

Hello all
I am shortly to undertake the replacement of the camshaft and followers in my
V8. As I have not delved into a Rover V8 before any advise on do's and dont's
would be greatly appreciated.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 18:23:15 +0100
Subject: RE: Whitworth Wrenches

slightly different size and a different way of measuring, a 1/4" whit is
slightly larger than 13mm jaw, 7/16" is about 22mm etc. Usually on gearbox
parts.

john

ps: have you got your BA spanners yet as well? ;-)

------------------------------

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:25:01 +0200
Subject: Sandblasting Al?

Apologies for the cross posting

I am replacing the bonnet on my '76 SIII. The used (new) bonnet has been
brown, blue, grey, green etc etc.

Any recommendations about sandblasting to remove all the paint layers or
should I stick to paint stripper

Tnks

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:29:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Sandblasting Al?

You will NOT sandblast me, thank you! <grin>

I wouldn't - aluminum is soft and doesn't take to it well. A good spray-on
or paint-on stripper works great and there's no blast damage.

I have heard of folks baking-soda or walnut-shell blasting aluminum panels,
but it seems to me to be a lot of work and expense.

               Al Richer

------------------------------

From: kandk@lineone.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 18:24:28 +0100
Subject: lockright

Hi Elwyn

I have heard that a lot of them have been recalled but I cannot remember
where I heard it, I will try to remember.

Why does your friend want a lockright?

If it is so he can travel where landies maybe should not go then it will be
cheaper for him to buy a mountain bike.

Keith

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:36:53 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: what to take with you

This thread reminded me of one we had in January 1998.

Apologies for reposting this list here, but I couldn't find it in the search 
archives to just post the URL.

I am amazed the truck would move with this amount of spares !

I'm sure you'll agree it is the list to end all lists.

Further apologies to the author, I have mislaid his name ....

Cheers,

Paul.

------------- Begin Included Message -------------

These are the spare parts one guy carries around in his Land Rover (just in 
case 
something breaks)

kit includes the following:

Lugnut Wrench (heavy duty x-bar type)
bottle jack
Wheel chocks (1 slightly flattened--ask Zippy why.)
Jumper cables
Recovery gear (tow straps and shackles)
MOD surplus Pick and Shovel set
Snow shovel
Glock folding entrenching tool (includes wicked wood saw)

Bin under drivers seat contains:
Sears Craftsman toolkit that periodically goes on sale for about $50:
	1/4 Drive and Sockets (standard and Metric)
	3/8 Drive and Sockets + short extension (standard and metric)
	Open-ended wrenches in 3/8 thru 11/16 (I think that's the range)
	flat head screwdriver
	#2 phillips screwdriver

7" Vice Grips
7" Diagonal Cutters
7" long nose pliers
7" "regular" slip-joint pliers
7" "big" slip-joint pliers (forget the name --longer parallel jaws)
Cheapo wire stripper/crimper tool
4 "Land Rover" stock wrenches purchased at a rally (Marginally useless)
A double ended Whitworth wrench that I won at a show. (Forget the size but
I think one end is 7/8 --it fits various drain plugs)
Extra 1/2-9/16 combination wrench
9/16 long box/open ended wrench
adjustable (non-crescent style) wrench.
1/4" short drive extention
"Screwdriver" handle to use 1/4" sockets as nutdrivers (Probably Buffalo brand)
Spark plug socket
Oil filter wrench--I have a spin-on adaptor
folding hex wrench set (wiper arms and brake drum screws on my Rover)
Small assortment of punches
Rubber mallet
Machinists hammer
Larger Flat Head screwdriver (not quite large enough for stock brake drum
screws though)
Small 90 degree screwdriver (Carb adjustment)
Stanley "folding saw" that uses Sawz-all blades. (Lennox "steel" blade
installed and "wood" blade stored in handle.) If you can find one, Bosch
makes a better version of this tool.
Hub nut tool from Rovers North
Brake line clamps (not really a road tool, but as good a place as any to
store them)
Valve stem wrench/screw on pressure release tool
Extra valve stems and caps
Anti-sieze compound
Silicone brake parts grease
Some type of blue goo gasket maker
Locktite blue
Locktite red
All of the above fits nicely into a soft-sided "Tool Pack" tool bag. The
socket sets are in cordura "Tool Pack" pouches and the wrenches and
screwdrivers are in a tool roll. Most of the tools are Craftsman and if
asked they "broke under normal use."

Also beneath the seat:
Digital Multimeter (don't forget spare batteries!)
Tire pressure gauge
Can of PowerBlaster (WD-40 on steroids)
Halogen "backpackers" headlamp--waterproof.
Duct tape
Electrical tape
"Jupiter" Tape--(Self annealing rubber)
Spool of steel wire
Spool of electrical wire (16 guage stranded)
Assorted electrical connecters
Small assortment of nuts, bolts and machine screws
A few SS hose clamps
A handful of assorted "zip" wire ties
Length of rubber hose.
Castrol LMA
1 bottle of 85-W-140 gear oil
20-W-50 oil (3-7 quarts depending on when I last restocked)

"Every day parts"
Transfer gear and backing plate in case the overdrive goes
2 half shafts (long & short) and the appropriate seals
Spare module for Illuminition.
Bulbs and fuses

Jar of hand cleaner and shop towels
Disposable latex gloves
Coveralls
A polarfleece blanket (doubles as ground sheet)
2 pair of heavy duty "railroad" work gloves for winching and pushing
Haynes Manual, Rovers North catalog, BB list printout.

For longer trips I carry additional gaskets and anything else that's
sitting on the shelf that I can stuff into the rear toolbox.
I also (now) carry lots of extra gear oil and a small pump if
I'm going to be wading--and an extra oil filter or two.

Seems like a lot of stuff, but it doesn't really take up very much space.

------------- End Included Message -------------

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 10:49:50 -0700 
Subject: 'Double S'  Exhaust

Does anybody have any experience with 'Double S' exhaust systems? I
remember seeing photos in LROI of a Stage I with a Double S stainless
steel exhaust kit, .....looked pretty nice. 
Any comments on quality, value, fit, or performance of their products
(or any suggestions for alternatives to a stock system) would be
appreciated.

Thanks,
Tony Treace
atreace@hasimons.com

1967 109 SW
1951 80 HT 

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:47:38 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Sandblasting Al?

In a message dated 6/8/98 1:34:57 PM, *Al Richer* wrote:

>You will NOT sandblast me, thank you! <grin>

But I doubt Al would mind very much if you applied a *stripper* to him... <big
ol' grin>

--pat.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 98 14:06:36 EST
Subject: Re[2]: what to take with you

>>Further apologies to the author, I have mislaid his name ....

that could only have been written by our esteemed Mr. Berg

>kit includes the following:

>Lugnut Wrench (heavy duty x-bar type) .
..lots of stuff snipped;;;;;;;;.

jeff you are always a little bit *too* prepared.

takes all the adventure out of it. 
I've pretty much stopped carrying around much of anything excepting a jack and 
jumper cables, a few odd screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, multimeter and test 
light for those lucas-filled nights. haven't even had one of those lately. 
In DC you don't want to leave much in the car if you aren't going to lock it.
I'll throw in the spares (hub seal, race, wheel bearings, x-fer gear/cover 
plate, distributor, water pump, coil) and toolbox (contents may vary) for 
longer trips, but mostly I'm around town and you don't exactly need a rolling 
parts inventory/snap-on tool box.
 later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:17:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 'Double S'  Exhaust

 
 Does anybody have any experience with 'Double S' exhaust systems? I
 remember seeing photos in LROI of a Stage I with a Double S stainless
 steel exhaust kit, .....looked pretty nice. 
 Any comments on quality, value, fit, or performance of their products
 (or any suggestions for alternatives to a stock system) would be
 appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 Tony Treace
 atreace@hasimons.com

Tony,

   Don't have any experience w/ Double S, but I do with Rimmer Bros. I
bought their stainless system for my 101FC, fit perfectly, received it
in Portland, OR from the UK in 8 days, and cost almost 40% less than a stock
Rover mild steel system, even with shipping. Quality seems great, they
supply fittings and clamps in S/S as well. They also redesigned the system
to flow a bit better than the Rover sys, seems to run a bit stronger, and
the muffler sounds a bit deeper, nice rumbly noises.

Rgds
Mike  

------------------------------

From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:38:39 -0500
Subject: Re: 'Double S'  Exhaust

Mike-
Out of curiosity, what modifications and upgrades have you done to your 101.
Thanks.

BTW- the vehicle number for my 101 is 96400331A.

Chris Hinkle

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 11:38:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Lockright Automatic Locking Diffs - Rover Axel

The Rover version Lockright was in production less than 6-months & then
discontinued. It's commonly used here in a variety of 4x4s but they had
trouble getting it to work well in Rover diffs, mostly because of the poor
quality of the machining in the later Rover diffs. It's a little better in
the earlier Rover diffs that use side gear shims. I installed a prototype a
couple of years ago. Still have it unused in a 4.77 diff.

The units are fairly harsh and noisey but they work well and have a
positive lock. It was very troublesom in the later Rovers with fulltime
4WD, due to axle backlash and center diff backlash. Should be more livable
in old part-time rigs.

Unlike some of the other lockers on the market that offer a new, stronger
carrier with the locker, the Lockright relies on the strength (or lack
therof) of the stock carrier. The Lockright is easy to install. If you are
istalling this in a Series 3 diff, you may have to hone the pin hole to get
the new pin to fit. I did.

300 quid (about $450) seems high to me. You can buy 'em here cheaper. Plus,
it's an orphan.

        Jim Allen

>Dear All
>Can anyone help?
>A freind may soon be buying a "Lockright Automatic Locking Differential for
>a Rover Axel".  Can anyone give me any info/personal use of/reccomendations
>about it.
>It is still in the box, brand new, never used and the AP is £300. Urgent

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!
>S3 '72 Lightweight. Http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 14:10:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

On Mon, 8 Jun 1998, Paul Quin wrote:

> I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any.
> What is special or different about them?
> Are they unique sizes or shapes?  Are they sized like other wrenches?
> (3/8, 1/2 etc...)  Or maybe numbered like screwdrivers?

Whitworth bolts are sized by the distance across the threads, and by the
number of threads per inch, just like SAE bolts.  HHowever, the wrenches
are sized this way too, instead of across the flats, liek for everything
else.  So a 3/8 whit wrench is much bigger than a 3/8 SAE one, which still
causes me problems.  The across flats whitworth measurements are all
really weird., and at some point it was deided that the bolt heads were
too big for the bolts, and the next smaller size head was used.  These are
British Standard, technically, and are mostly what the Land-Rover
"Whitworth" bolts are.  These come in two sets of thread pitches, coarse
and fine.  The fine threads are unique to BSF stuff, so you have to use
them where they were originally.  The coarse, however, happen to be the
same rates as american united coarse, with the exception of 1/2: which is
13 tpi and the UNC 12 tpi.  This means that you will find will find UNC
stuff where there ought to be BS stuff, and vice versa.  You shouldn't do
this though, because the two standards have different thread form(60
degrees for UNC and 55 for BS), and they will leak.  the other odd set of
fasteners that are on Land_rovers are British Assocciation.  These are the
spawn of satan.  They have a 47.5 degree thread angle, and are metric.
But metirc in a way that only a drunken Englishman could think of.  The
diameter is a factor proporional to a power of the log base 10 of the
pitch in millimeters.  (I hold nmy breath in awe.)  Fortunaltly, they are
all less than a 1/4 inch in diatmeter, re used mostly in things
electircal.  Don't lose these, they are very hard to replace.  As for how
these are labeled, they are numbered, like screwdrivers, with bigger
numbers being smaller.  

At this point, you should be glad that you don't have a  BSA mtorcycle,
which have two or three more uniquly british bolt systems to deal with.
AS for where to get these things, you probably don't really nedd a set,
unless you are a tool junky.  Metric sizes are pretty close in most cases.  
If you just have to have some, your favorite Land-Rover parts supplier
will be happy to sell you some, for a price.  If you really want to spend
money, Snap-On sells sockets, but not wrenches.  (or they did six years
ago)

David/mr sinclair.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 12:32:41 -0700 
Subject: RE: Whitworth Wrenches

David writes about British fasteners...
	the other odd set of
	fasteners that are on Land_rovers are British Assocciation.
These are the
	spawn of satan.  They have a 47.5 degree thread angle, and are
metric.
	But metirc in a way that only a drunken Englishman could think
of.  The
	diameter is a factor proporional to a power of the log base 10
of the
	pitch in millimeters.  (I hold nmy breath in awe.)  

Wow.

My father was an RAF mechanic during W.W.II  (my family is from
Glasgow).  Now I know why he used to curse some aspects of British
engineering...

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 22:19:30 +0200
Subject: RE: Sandblasting Al?

 
> You will NOT sandblast me, thank you! <grin>

Oh go on Al if your not damages I'll try the bonnet :-))

Thanks - the advice is valuable

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 22:50:05 +0200
Subject: RE: Sandblasting Al?

	Riaan Botes[SMTP:riaanb@iafrica.com] wrote:

Any recommendations about sandblasting to remove all the paint layers or
should I stick to paint stripper

Sandblasting with sand, or other hard material will clean the iron on Your 
bonnet (hood) for everything, paint - old oil - aluminum, and levee You 
with the iron frame. Maybe if You are carefully some of the aluminum will 
be left.
If You can get it, crushed vallnut shells will do a better job. Or use 
paint stripper.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers

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	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 34 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 13:53:13 -0700 
Subject: Looking for part of a IIA rear crossmember

Gentlemen,

My otherwise excellent IIA rear crossmember (bumper) had the right side
bent back and refuses to return to its original, undistorted position.
Basically, I need everything to the right of the right side frame rail.
Do any sawzall-owners out there have an old crossmember with a good
right side? I'd rather cut and fit just the right side rather than a
whole crossmember.

Thanks in advance,

Tony Treace
atreace@hasimons.com

1967 109 SW
1951 80 HT

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 98 17:05:30 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Sandblasting Al?

 

>Any recommendations about sandblasting to remove all the paint layers or 
>should I stick to paint stripper

You could probably sandblast it, but bead blasting or other less agressive 
blasting media would be better and leave the aluminum a little happier. Also if 
you are using a home handyman type sandlbaster than it probably isn't going to 
be powerful enough to hurt the aluminum. but it WILL take forever to get it 
clean...

try it out!

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 23:21:48 +0200
Subject: RE: V8 camshaft replacement

	MRogers315@aol.com[SMTP:MRogers315@aol.com] wrote:
I am shortly to undertake the replacement of the camshaft and followers in 
my
V8. As I have not delved into a Rover V8 before any advise on do's and 
dont's
would be greatly appreciated.

1. Follow the workshop manual very carefully.
2. Drain the engine for oil, remove the oilpan and place a large flat box 
below. This makes it much easier to find all those small things that can 
drop down in the middle of the valley. I had to find several nuts and 
washers in the oil before I thought about this solution.
3. Fill all the new lifters with oil before installing, open and submerge 
in oil for some hours, and then put them together. It is NOT sufficient to 
let them lay in oil for 3-4 days. I know now.
4. When reassembling, align very carefully before mounting the timing 
chain.
5. Do not reassemble the oilpump before You install the timingchainshield. 
Install the shield, install the distributor and then the oilpump. It is 
difficult to get the distributor to fit the oilpumpshaft if the pump is 
fitted first, and there is a bolt, in the lower starboard side of the 
shield, that MUST be fitted before the oilpump.
6. Remember to fill the pumphouse with petroleumjelly, or it will not prime 
properly.
7. Before installing the inletmanifold gasket, the large flat one, be sure 
that the angel tube on the rear starboard side, venting the Wally to the 
intake filter is positioned correctly, and fixed with loctite or something 
similar.
8. Install the gasket, remember the 2 rubber strips, with plenty of fluid 
gasket. Then the 2 special aluminium fixings to hold the gaskets front and 
rear, they are very easy to break. DONOT overtighten, or You will have to 
be creative. I made a repair with iron, and hold it together with 
TechnoWeld until I can get a replacement.

This was my 2p advises. Hope it can help You not to do the same mistakes I 
did. Find Your Owns instead.

Be sure You will create lots of new nice words, of those You did not learn 
in the church. I did, my wife claims.

Happy work.

Bent Boehlers
110" V8 1983
86" 2l. 1954

Coming to Shugbourgh Hall in the read and white 110.

X-deleted-begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 58 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: "LEPRINCE Didier" <leprince@outremer.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 17:34:07 -0400
Subject: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 12:13:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

The reason why they used studs instead of bolts is that it is not possible
to insert studs the wrong side in, which is not the case with bolts  :-) 

Didier LEPRINCE
Morne Poirier
97220 TRINITE
MARTINIQUE
                                          ___ 
                                      _ /_/\ _\ _
         +--+--+   	         _ / _/        \_  \_                 __
         |[___]|_\___   _ /  _/              \_   \_       ___]|_\___
         | ___|"__|_ | /   _/                     \_    \_ | ___|"__|_ | 
_____"(o)""""(o)"___/                            \_  __"(o)""""(o)"______

      DEFENDER 90 96                                 LAND 88 1968

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 17:59:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for part of a IIA rear crossmember

Sure do - got a whole one you're welcome to.

Problem is - where are you?

More to the point, might it not be easier to cut the offending exterior
bit, straighten the rest and then replace the front bit with a bit of steel
plate?

Weld it right and a bit of grinding will have it looking untouched.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:16:09 EDT
Subject: Re: That little yellow lever...

In a message dated 08/06/98  18:08:22, you write:

<<   Speaking of which, does anyone have a DuPont (or other) paint code for
 that NATO green?
  >>

Jeff, 
gallons of the stuff in every Army Surplus store in the UK, same in the
States?

and two litres and a four inch brush covers all. 

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Rovergo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:39:15 EDT
Subject: Series11a Rebuild- pistons

Jim 
 Hepolite pistons have no front or back the hash marks are to lineup rings at
1/3 intervals around pistons. just be sure oil squirt holes in rods face cam
side of block.
 Pat Young
65 11a 88.

------------------------------

From: Rovergo@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 20:01:03 EDT
Subject: Bolts vs Studs

robert youll note most of the places rover installed studs instead of bolts
were in aluminium cast housings ( clutch housing/trans/transferbox) I believe
this was done so that wear from disassembly and assembly will be on fastener
instead of threads in soft casting. studs also have higher shear strenght hope
this helps.
Pat Young 
65 11a 88.

------------------------------

From: rrose@caltech.edu (Randy Rose)
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 00:04:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Series I and II shackle plates

On Mon, 08 Jun 1998 14:18:02 +0200, wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
wrote:

>Can anyone give me the part numbers and differences between the shackle
>plates for series I and II, SWB and LWB? Are all SWB shackle plates equal, 
>so that I can use SII plates on an SI? Likewise with LWB?

Gee, that was sort of my question, which no one has answered yet.
Anyone out there got a chance to look?

My question:

I think I have the wrong spring shackles on my 107 Station Wagon.
Could someone who has a 107 STATION WAGON be willing to measure the
distance between bolt hole centers on the front shackles for me?   I
think they're different from a  107 2-door.

Randy

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 21:05:01 -0400
Subject: Bolts v studs

It is not good engineering practise to fit bolts into aluminium, since
frequent removal and replacement can cause problems. In addition the use of
a stud helps in aligning the parts during the assembly process.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 09:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

Constantly installing and removing bolts from an aluminum casing will
eventually strip the threads.

Kathleen Hollington wrote:

> Sorry about the last one - finger error.
> As I put my 2.25L petrol engine back together, I often reflect on
> why previous owners/Rover would have used studs instead of bolts
> in some places.  I am replacing a number of old studs with new
> bolts of proper length (especially when the original studs were
> pretty worn).  Why, for instance, use a stud to hold the starter
> on as opposed to a bolt?  Or, to connect the engine and gearbox at
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR --
>   kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:43:41 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

Hi Paul

It says here: "The old English standard thread 'Whitworth' and later
'BSW/BSF' sizes need spanners to suit" etc. This is from the Frost catalog,
a British company specialising in tools and equipment for car restorations.
They sell 6-piece and 8-piece sets of Whitworth combination spanners. I
found I needed all three types of spanners - metric, AF and WW - for my
Land Rover, especially in stripping parts from an abandoned FFR lightweight
near here that's rusted beyond repair. I managed to get a set of WW
combinations from Japan and WW rings from China, of all places, in a really
good tool shop in Kowloon. I don't use them that often, but when I need
them I really need them, worth having. I'd've thought you could get them in
the US - can't you get _everything_ in the US?? If not, try Frost's. Paul
Wakefield posted this message recently:

>I came across an excellent site for restoration & garage tools the other day.
>I haven't seen this URL posted here before so here it is:
>http://www.frost.co.uk/
>http://www.frost.co.uk/core.htm
>Enjoy,

I found the Frost site some time ago (ref from the Australian lro list) and
sent them an email asking for more information about silicon brake fluid.
They mailed me their catalog and a magazine article that answered all my
questions and more. Nice catalog, I'll be ordering some gear soon. Email at
art@Frost.co.uk

All best

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Lightweight

>I've heard a lot about Whitworth wrenches but never actually seen any.
>What is special or different about them?
>Are they unique sizes or shapes?  Are they sized like other wrenches?
>(3/8, 1/2 etc...)  Or maybe numbered like screwdrivers?
>I have come across several bolts on my vehicle that do not seem to fit
>either imperial or metric wrenches, and I assume that these are meant
>for Whitworth wrenches.  Am I right?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
>Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:31:58 -0400
Subject: Re: GM Diesels (correction and whining)

> I just simply had to throw this into the discussion:  the infamous
> "350
> Diesel" was primarily intended to serve as a car engine and it was
> built by
> GM's automotive engine division(s).  (Does anyone remember if this
> horrific
> thing was ever offered in GMC and Chevy trucks?)

The 350 diesel was used in both cars and light trucks. I believe the
original engineering was by Oldsmobile.

>  On the other hand, the
> 6.2 was engineered and is actually built by GM's wholy-owned subsidary
> Detroit Diesel.
> built by

My recollection is that the 6.2 diesel was originally engineered by the
the engine portion of former Chevrolet-Pontiac-Canada group within GM.
The 6.5 is produced today by GM Powertrain.

Detroit Diesel produced an 8.2 diesel which was used in medium (big)
trucks. I'm not sure if the engineering was by Detroit Diesel or C-P-C.
Detroit Diesel was purchased by Roger Penske in the early '90s, and is
no longer associated with GM.

LR connection?: GM wanted to by Leyland Truck in the mid-80's and merge
it with Bedford, but insisted on LR as a sweetener. There were serious
plans to move a lot of truck engineering to Britain, and the Millbrook
proving ground would have become the GM truck proving ground. A lot of
political pressure was applied to keep LR british, and the deal fell
through. Ten years later: Bedford is essentially non-existant; Leyland
was taken over by DAF who went bankrupt, and DAF-Leyland is a shadow of
it's former self; and LR is german owned. Now RR car is also german
owned.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: John & Sandy Cooper <scooper@scooper.seanet.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 19:48:13 -0700
Subject: Topical roof supports

Does anyone have the runners (supports) for fitting the sunsheet to the
hard top roof that they wish to sell?  I am not on the list so please
e-mail me directly.  Thanks, John Cooper  scooper@scooper.seanet.com

------------------------------

From: Jim Holmes <jholmes@gardnersys.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 21:55:48 -0600
Subject: Timing Problems

Hi All,

I'm having problems keeping the timing adjusted on my '59 sii88. The engine 
(2.25l) runs fine after adjusting the timing with a light (6 degrees BTDC), 
but within 100 miles of driving the timing has slipped again (many degrees 
after TDC). The distributor is fairly new (3-4 years old). Points, 
condensor, cap, rotor are all new. Timing chain, etc. were recently 
inspected and seemed fine. The two bolts holding the distributor are tight. 
Any other ideas on what I should try? Setting the timing once a week is 
getting to be a real pain!

Thanks in advance,

Jim Holmes

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:18:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Series I and II shackle plates

Randy Rose wrote:

> >Can anyone give me the part numbers and differences between the shackle
> >plates for series I and II, SWB and LWB? Are all SWB shackle plates equal,

> Gee, that was sort of my question, which no one has answered yet.
> Anyone out there got a chance to look?

If you give me some time (and remind me eventually :) ) I can check some of
this
with the real McCoy as I have both SIIA109 and S1 80 plates in my garage.
I'll put a note in the pile of notes by my PC to try to prompt myself to
check....
like I said.. remind me.

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 02:15:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Towing Capabilities

Hi All:
    Does anyone know what the rated towing ability is for a 66 109 2.25 5
door?  I'm planning on using her to pull a camper trailer from NY to Alaska
& need to know what my limits are in trailering.  (I haven't bought the
trailer yet.)
    Also, are there any suggestions for modifications that I can perform to
increase her trailering abilities?  Thanks in advance!!!
    Oh yea, Any suggestions about which spare parts to carry for a long trip
such as this?  (I've already saved the thread on which tools.)  Thanks
again.

Drew Squires
drewteri@concentric.net
66 109 (Still Getting Dressed)

------------------------------

From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:50:31 +0000
Subject: Re: 'Double S'  Exhaust

> Does anybody have any experience with 'Double S' exhaust systems? I
> remember seeing photos in LROI of a Stage I with a Double S stainless
> steel exhaust kit, .....looked pretty nice. 
> Any comments on quality, value, fit, or performance of their products
> (or any suggestions for alternatives to a stock system) would be
> appreciated.

Got one on the LtWt. Got the local exhaust centre to fit it for about 
USD40. The various connecting flanges were not supplied but the 
fitters managed to sort that out no problem at no extra charge.

Been on about 4 years. Didn't stay nice and shiny long but it's not 
not rusting (just surface colouration).

Seems to be okay... It's an exhaust... What more can I say?

Steve Mace

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 04:18:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Whitworth Wrenches

In a message dated 09/06/98  02:52:36, you write:

<< I found the Frost site some time ago (ref from the Australian lro list) and
 sent them an email asking for more information about silicon brake fluid.
 They mailed me their catalog and a magazine article that answered all my
 questions and more. Nice catalog, I'll be ordering some gear soon. >>

Keith,
not to boast, but Frost is about 20 mins down the road from me - a veritable
Aladins Cave, can't go in and out in less than an hour!!

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 11:41:24 +0200 
Subject: AW: Towing Capabilities

> Hi All:
>     Does anyone know what the rated towing ability is for a 66 109 2.25 5
> door?  I'm planning on using her to pull a camper trailer from NY to
> Alaska
> & need to know what my limits are in trailering.  (I haven't bought the
> trailer yet.)

Hi 

Do you have 2,25 diesel or petrol ?
My  1980 SIII 109 2,25 diesel is allowed to tow 1350 Kg when the trailer has
its own breaks. 

By 

Dennis Kuhl   
Owner 109 SIII  1980 SANTANA SW

dennis.kuhl@hvr.siemens.de
dennis@i-lab.de  

 

------------------------------

From: masmith <masmith@barint.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 05:51:44 -0400
Subject: ref. 88 soft top for sale 

i think your price is a bit much seeings how i just bought a 109 full
spoft top with complete hoop set for $1000.00 canadian and it was brand
new genuine. but someone will pay it im sure.it does cost money to have
it fixed and then you have to buy all the missing pieces on top of that
.how old is this top also.

------------------------------

From: masmith <masmith@barint.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 05:55:58 -0400
Subject: assmbly instructions for 109 hoop set

I just bought a 109 hoop set with full soft top out of the UK the fit
and finise is impeckable as always from rover .what im looking for is a
picture or exploded view of the hoop set to assmble mine {gee rover
dident send any instructions why am i not supprised}.anyways if anyone
has something please let me know ,asmith@barint.on.ca.thanks

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 12:19:27 +0200
Subject: Re: assmbly instructions for 109 hoop set

masmith wrote:

> the fit and finise is impeckable as always from rover 

Said with tongue firmly in cheek, I suppose...

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 20:04:02 +1000
Subject: Saving Mone (was bolts vs studs)

Pat wrote:
> read an article on something similar in AutoWeek several yrs ago. The
article I read mentioned how Ford stopped painting the *insides* of ashtrays
in Small, Midsize Cars & Pick-ups or something. It saved $2 per vehicle, and
they made hundreds of thousands (of vehicles) in the years following...

I saw  a TV program (Car Crash - from Britain) last week which stated that
Ford worked out that to fix the Pinto rear fueltank to stop people being
burnt alive would cost $11 per vehicle.  Total save $137 million.  Compared
with the $49.5 million they'd have to pay in damages to the families of
killed or injured people.  They decided to save the $11 and not modify the
tanks.  In one landmark courtcase, punitive damages of $125 mill were
awarded against Ford for the gross and appalling injuries suffered by one
person who was burnt in an accident.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

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