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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:36:42 GMT
Subject: 88" soft top for sale

Bonjour, 

I have an 88 used military canvas top for sale, with hoops. 1 small tear in
back window and missing 4 attachment pieces for the hoops, (RN has them 5$
each).

Asking price: 450$ Cdn.

 I am located in Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, about 30 miles north of the
Vermont/Quebec border. 

Thank you, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Rock Forest, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 10:58:20 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 98-06-07 07:09:15 EDT, you write:

<< I'm currently looking for some black
 vinyl to patch with, anyone done any sewing on those deluxe seats?
  >>

I went to the Piece Goods Store (a sewing and fabric shop here in the SE) and
bought enough vinyl "fabric" to cover three seat bottoms for $8.

Get out your staple gun and go to it.

Alex Maiolo
Hillsborough NC

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 07:11:49 -0900
Subject: Series IIa Rebuild-Pistons

I am rebuilding a IIa and I have a block and pistons that are .030 over.
The pistons are Hepolite and the only markings are 3 hash marks equally
spaced on the top surface. Does it matter which way the piston is oriented?
Manual says "X  toward front of engine". Thanks all for the quick reply on
cam and crank questions.
Jim Duchanin, Anchorage, Alaska. 1961 Series IIa 88

------------------------------

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 12:05:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Bolts vs Studs?

-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 12:13:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

Sorry about the last one - finger error.

As I put my 2.25L petrol engine back together, I often reflect on
why previous owners/Rover would have used studs instead of bolts 
in some places.  I am replacing a number of old studs with new
bolts of proper length (especially when the original studs were 
pretty worn).  Why, for instance, use a stud to hold the starter
on as opposed to a bolt?  Or, to connect the engine and gearbox at
the bell housing?  Does anyone have good rules of thumb or
knowledge about when one should use a stud vs a bolt?  Is one more
easy to deal with when seized and trying to remove?  Is one more
durable than the other?  Except for cases where the stud providers a 
guide to slip the other piece on, I cannot see where they would
be advantaged over a bolt, yet my original 2.25L was full of studs
all over the place.
Thanks,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 12:17:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fusebox for IIa?

Once I am done with putting the overhauled drivetrain back into
my IIa, my next big jobs will be re-wiring and brake job all 
around.  I bought a wiring harness from British Wiring, and although
there are no instructions, I assume it should be fairly straightforward
to install (using the color coding from the LR manuals etc.).  But
I don't have a fusebox from what I can tell.  Should I try to find
a used or new one, or would I be better off to install one from a
north-american/japanese junker?  I recall reading somewhere that LR
fuseboxes (Lucas?) did not have great capacities for circuits/fuses/etc.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.  Regards,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 17:20:00 +0100
Subject: RE: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

Usually have 2 or 3 studs (1 in case of starter) as locating pins, far far
easier to align heavy items then.

John

______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 13:05:27
Subject: Re: Fusebox for IIa?

  But
>I don't have a fusebox from what I can tell.  Should I try to find
>a used or new one, or would I be better off to install one from a
>north-american/japanese junker?  Robert		

I recently bought one from Rovers North. It was only about $15 with the
cover. I have a 66 IIA. I figure that anything for the Rover that cost's
less than $50 new is a bargain. Best, Pete 

------------------------------

From: Krister Bergknut <krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 19:30:43 +0200
Subject: Matthew Reeve

I have tried to get i touch with you over quite some time now. You have 
complained on the list thet you get no mail .........

Please get i touch !

Krister Bergknut, Norway

qualityÉbergknut.no

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 14:36:12 EDT
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 07/06/98  04:54:48, you write:

<< Now you're thinking! This sort of thing is becoming my trademark during the
 resto. I love my rover, but have you looked at the loony prices on things
 like $200 genuine seat cushions?!? I'm currently looking for some black
 vinyl to patch with, anyone done any sewing on those deluxe seats? >>

Joseph,
over here in the UK some things (like seat covers, ahem) are a lot less - a
bit obvious really - but some of us (me especially) will not spend a £1 if I
can save it!!
 'cos soon enough with a Land Rover in the yard, there won't be a lot of
choice.

seats, try rehupholstery shops, also for the material.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 16:18:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

In a message dated 07/06/98  17:17:26, you write:

 As I put my 2.25L petrol engine back together, I often reflect on
 why previous owners/Rover would have used studs instead of bolts 
 in some places.  I am replacing a number of old studs with new
 bolts of proper length (especially when the original studs were 
 pretty worn).  Why, for instance, use a stud to hold the starter
 on as opposed to a bolt?  Or, to connect the engine and gearbox at
 the bell housing?  Does anyone have good rules of thumb or
 knowledge about when one should use a stud vs a bolt?  Is one more
 easy to deal with when seized and trying to remove?  Is one more
 durable than the other?  Except for cases where the stud providers a 
 guide to slip the other piece on, I cannot see where they would
 be advantaged over a bolt, yet my original 2.25L was full of studs
 all over the place.
  >>

Robert,
most strange fixings on any car can be traced back to ease or cost during the
factory build. They seem to forget (or more likely don't care) how difficult
it can be when a car is old and/or when other bits, fitted afterwards during
the build, are in close proximity.
 However, with Land Rover just don't try finding sense, it just makes your
brain hurt!

I was talking to one of the Land Rover designers, who worked on the interior
of the Freelander (name dropping or wot?). He had been criticised in one of
the mickey mouse car mags for incorporating inside door handles off a Maestro
or somesuch.
He replied that, by using that part, for which tooling already existed and
thousands are lying about in parts bins already, he saved £11 UKP per vehicle
on the first 20,000 cars sold. That's a pleasant bit of change for the BMW
piggybank.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 16:18:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Fusebox for IIa?

In a message dated 07/06/98  18:22:07, you write:

<< I figure that anything for the Rover that cost's
 less than $50 new is a bargain. >>

assuming that it lasts long enough for the cheque to clear :-)>

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 18:08:10 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

In a message dated 6/7/98 4:21:13 PM, you wrote:

>by using that part, for which tooling already existed and
>thousands are lying about in parts bins already, he saved £11 UKP per vehicle
>on the first 20,000 cars sold. That's a pleasant bit of change for the BMW
>piggybank.

I read an article on something similar in AutoWeek several yrs ago. The
article I read mentioned how Ford stopped painting the *insides* of ashtrays
in Small, Midsize Cars & Pick-ups or something. It saved $2 per vehicle, and
they made hundreds of thousands (of vehicles) in the years following...

Land Rover does something else to save money these days, in scrimping on
galvanizing, and they have to pay for it later, in the form of expensive
warranty repairs (what's labor for a RR mechanic these days, $70/hour?) and
bad press...

oh well.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: E York & E Griffiths <lr3uk@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 23:30:27 +0100
Subject: Steering Ball Joints

Hi Folks

Can you shed some light on something for me.  Shortly (read when i have
more then 2 pennies to rub together) i will need to get a ball joint to
replace the extremely worn front drivers' side steering ball joint.  I have
some questions i would like you to ask

1.	My local LR garage say I dont need a particular "thread", Left or Right
thread will do. I have been told by freinds this is incorrect

2.	What tools do i need to get them off

3.	Anything else i should need to know about them...

Cheers
Elwyn
In a Series Landrover, No One Can Hear You Scream!!!

------------------------------

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 18:49:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Bolts vs Studs (with text)

In a message dated 07/06/98  23:10:45, you write:

<< I read an article on something similar in AutoWeek several yrs ago. The
 article I read mentioned how Ford stopped painting the *insides* of ashtrays
 in Small, Midsize Cars & Pick-ups or something. It saved $2 per vehicle, and
 they made hundreds of thousands (of vehicles) in the years following...
 
 Land Rover does something else to save money these days, in scrimping on
 galvanizing, and they have to pay for it later, in the form of expensive
 warranty repairs (what's labor for a RR mechanic these days, $70/hour?) and
 bad press...
  >>
Pat
the other side of the coin was the 'old' MGB which, despite the fact that the
Rover Group could sell everyone they made (98% to you lot in the colonies
:-)>) was costing them £300+ for every car they sold!!!
 Now to us simple minded souls: if Americans will buy so many MGBs there is a
waiting list why can't you put the price up by £300 ++ and make some loot?

LR content:  There is absolutely no way saving on galvanising could have been
cost effective for Solihull, like you say, warranty repairs and bad press must
have cost them plenty. In the UK, with the numbers of 'quality pre-owned' (tee
hee) LRs lying around in scrapyards and the fact that the rear capping can,
with only slight mods, be used for the rear section of the County 110 and all
Nineties I know of people rebuilding late models who have replaced the 'new'
rusty cappings, with 'old' galvanised cappings from parts breakers....... 

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 20:34:23 -0400
Subject: 2 v 2a

<< I am rebuilding a IIa engine and I have a used series II engine for parts.
 Can I use the cam/sliders/rollers/guides, the starter dog and crank pulley
 from the II in the IIa rebuild?
  >>

>Yes.  The crank journals (and bearings), the valve train, and the waterpump
and front cover are the main differences in the SII and SIIa

Nate

 The block is also slightly differtent, the distance from the center line of
the crank to the top of the block is shorter on a 2 than on a 2a, trivial
until you try to use a 2 block in a diesel when the pistons hit the head !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 22:04:08 EDT
Subject: Re:  Is is possible to get a 130 HCPU in from Costa Rica?

When I was in Panama in February, I saw a NICE brand-new 130 HCPU crew cab
model at the LR dealer in Panama City.  I have no idea how much they wanted
for it.

I assume you're in NA.  This vehicle was obviously not US spec, so I reckon
you'd be up against all the same red tape as if you wanted to import one from
England, with the sole advange of being able to drive it home (if you're into
high adventure) instead of shipping it. 
Bill

------------------------------

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 22:03:57 EDT
Subject:  Re: what to take with you

Here's what I take:
Distributor cap, rotor, coil, spark plug wires, top + bottom rad. hoses, fan
belt, hi-lift and bottle jacks, big ol' chrome X-shaped lug nut wrench that
works on my 15/16" and my 1 1/16" lugs, warning triangle, wheel bearings, some
brake lines (I don't have a garage, so some of this stuff is stuff I'd leave
at home if I did), good socket set, bunch of wrenches, rivet gun and asstd.
rivets, box o' mixcellaneous bolts and nuts and cotter pins, screwdrivers,
chisel, large hammer, vise grips, duct tape, two u-joints, various aerosol
lubricants + cleaners, RTV silicones, brake bleed nipples, those little felt
"seals" for the axle ends, used to carry spare halfshafts when I had a Rover
rear axle, blanket, about a gallon of coolant mix, about 5 qts. of 80w 90, 3
qt. of 10w30, tow strap, tow chain, shackles, machete, shovel, hi-lift stand,
bow saw, wellies, some grubby clothes to put on to work on her (on the off
chance that I'm not already wearing grubbies), and about 3 gallons of gasoline
in a British can.

I think that's about everything.

Oh yeah, a cell phone and a membership card in an auto club that will
reimburse me for getting towed/ arrange a tow for me in case none of the above
come in handy.

Bill

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 08:32:19 +0100
Subject: Re: what to take with you

I sort of went the other way - started with an apple box (the decent wooden
type), with the rear
underseat boxes as overflow (now used for brake fluid!).
Finding a small tool like a pair of pliers underneath a large box of junk,
meant I *then* went for
a small ammo box.
Those small boxes (for cartridges) make nifty small-tools toolboxes!
They even have a carry handle! :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Frankelson@aol.com on 06/06/98 12:52:12 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: what to take with you

In a message dated 05/06/98  21:41:55, you write:
<<  Having broken down on the first trip out last night
 > Well, nobody's answered his other question about what to take
 > out with you on the road. Inquiring minds want to know!
  >>
thirty years ago my 'basic' tool kit fitted in a small ammo box, twenty
years
ago the same 'basic' kit needed a medium sized ammo box, ten years ago it
needed a fairly large ammo box, today I can only lift my tool box out the
back
with two hands
...and in ten years time I reckon I'll need a trailler.
best cheers
Frank

------------------------------

From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 09:37:29 +0200 
Subject: Specifications 2.5 natural Diesel

Hi all,

I need the all aviable Information about the 2.5 Diesel non Turbo. This
engine was never sold in germany so Informations are hard to get. 

I need data's as well as Information about durability and so on !

Thanks in advance

With kind regards.

Dennis Kuhl

Dennis Kuhl   
Owner 109 SIII  1980 SANTANA SW

dennis.kuhl@hvr.siemens.de
dennis@i-lab.de  

------------------------------

From: Fran=?ISO-8859-1?Q?=e7ois_ADAMS_?=<francois.adams@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:01:28 +0200
Subject: Overdrive & thanks

Hello

Thanks a lot to all replyers to my previous answers (on the list an
personnal response) ! Great community

Could you tell me more about overdrive ?

I mean, I would like to know how it appears once fitted in the car , How
do you use it ? Is it giving you a fifth gear, or is it like another
transfer gear , giving you four more gears ? 

What difference in reduction is there between the normal fourth and the
"overdrive" ? (Please give an example like "1500 RPM  fourth = 60 Km/h,
1000 RPM Ovedrive = 75 KM/H ) (Or tell me the value of a mile in
kilmeters :-) ) 

I ve heard a lot about overdrive, I see more or less what it is, I think
it's interesting because of the economy of petrol and lower RPM for the
motor, but in France it's a rare equipment so I do not know how you
really manipulate it !

And also very practical info : Do you switch the overdrive while driving
? Do you have to choose before starting like for high/low on transfer ?
Is the overdrive active while on low transfer ?

Another question : I see the advantages, what are the dtrawbacks ??
(Except it's one more piece which can break down :-) )

Or give me the address of a "newbie overdrive " internet site :-)

Thanks in advance

--
François ADAMS     ICQ UIN 1736355
francois.adams@wanadoo.fr

My LR : http://www.mygale.org/~fa1

------------------------------

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:42:58 +1000
Subject: GM Diesels

BRIAN WILLOUGHBY) wrote:

>the 6.2 was engineered and is actually built by GM's wholy-owner
>subsidary Detroit Diesel.  So to be proper, this engine is a Detroit
>and not a "GM". 

If it doesn't leak oil, it ain't a Detroit Diesel 8-) 

If it does leak then it is an ideal engine for a Rover.

>And of course, everyone knows that the paint colour used on
>Land-Rover blocks is almost an exact match to the one
>employed by Detroit.

Another good reason.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman engine for any Rover.

------------------------------

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