L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Ian Otty [imo@kerridge.c20Which paint to use?
2 car4doc [car4doc@concent14Re: "Switch for Panel Lights"
3 "John C. Hinkle" [defend11Re: Which paint to use?
4 SPYDERS@aol.com 27Re: Which paint to use?
5 Erik van Dyck [erikvandy19Re: British Bulldog
6 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd34Re: British Bulldog
7 SPYDERS@aol.com 15Re: British Bulldog
8 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea13Heater for TeriAnn
9 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b13: du choix de la langue
10 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b14Here we go again
11 SPYDERS@aol.com 10Gears Multiplier?
12 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l24RE: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs
13 jimfoo@uswest.net 15Re: Spin on oil filter adapter
14 Michael Fredette [mfrede30Re: electric fan thoughts?
15 Scott Wilson [scott@scra12RE: Which paint to use?
16 "Tackley, John" [jtackle13Sighting...
17 "Art Bitterman" [artbitt28Re: British Bulldog
18 "Art Bitterman" [artbitt34Brake light switch
19 "Art Bitterman" [artbitt34Brake light switch
20 "Peter M. Kaskan" [pmk1138Tappet Clearence & Timing
21 "Peter M. Kaskan" [pmk1128Re: Brake light switch
22 AKetc24290@aol.com 52The Workman's Bogus Journey
23 "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnu20Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5.-10.
24 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l18Re: Brake light switch
25 "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnu5Testing, no content
26 Frankelson@aol.com 31Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs
27 Frankelson@aol.com 16Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs
28 Frankelson@aol.com 11Re: Which paint to use?
29 Frankelson@aol.com 24Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs
30 SPYDERS@aol.com 34Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
31 Frankelson@aol.com 15Re: Brake light switch
32 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml12RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
33 David Scheidt [david@inf20Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
34 Frankelson@aol.com 22Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
35 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@21Re: Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5.-10.
36 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l31RE: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs
37 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l15RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
38 "d.h.lowe" [dhlowe@idire11Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
39 "Alan Bishop" [alan@owls28series II questions
40 Kathleen Hollington [kho19Used Series Parts for trade in Ottawa
41 Kathleen Hollington [kho34Support to Teriann
42 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema62Re: series II questions
43 Jarvis64@aol.com 34Re: series II questions
44 SPYDERS@aol.com 24Re: RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
45 SPYDERS@aol.com 19RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
46 "T. F. Mills" [tomills@d17Re: Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5
47 "KMCO" [KMCO@KEAR.TDS.NE12[not specified]
48 NADdMD@aol.com 26Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
49 SPYDERS@aol.com 22Re: Filter
50 David Scheidt [david@inf22RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
51 Brett Storey [brstore@ib31Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)
52 Kuhl Dennis [Dennis.Kuhl23New engine
53 CIrvin1258@aol.com 21Re: New engine
54 Kuhl Dennis [Dennis.Kuhl21AW: New engine


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From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 98 12:20:58 BST
Subject: Which paint to use?

Can anybody tell me what type of paint to use for a good finish on 
my LR. I intend to prepare/paint everything myself. I would like a 
metallic finish that looks as good as factory finished - is this 
possible? MY choice of colour was NATO green but my better half has 
refused to go in it if it doesn't look nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but she 
will let me buy a new compressor if I paint the LR 'properly'

Does anybody know what two pack paint is and why it is not 
recommended to use it at home? I will have the use of a good quality 
compressor and spray equipment and an empty outbuilding to spray in.

Any help would be much appreciated as I am OK with mechanicals but I 
have never worried about paint before. I would still prefer NATO 
green - much less hassle!

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 06:36:36 -0500
Subject: Re: "Switch for Panel Lights"

Hi All,
 The switch at Radio Schack is a pull switch & a near duplicate of the
original.  Cost under 5.00.   I have replaced two & you can not really
tell the differance in the switch.  It even has screws on the
connectors.  I hope that helps someone.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 06:35:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Which paint to use?

Ian-
Nice write up at the following web site:
http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/bclandrover/FAQ/LRPaintMain.html

Chris Hinkle

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:32:42 EDT
Subject: Re:  Which paint to use?

In a message dated 6/2/98 7:24:50 AM, you wrote:

>I would like a 
>metallic finish that looks as good as factory finished - is this 
>possible? MY choice of colour was NATO green but my better half has 
>refused to go in it if it doesn't look nice!!!
>.
Somehow, even I doubt that NATO Green will look nice as a *metallic* finish...
isn't it kinda contradictory? LR does have a Metallic green called Epsom
Green, but it looks nothing like NATO Green. I doubt she'd go for the IRR-
with-a-paint-brush-with-some-black-blotches-for-effect-look?

>Does anybody know what two pack paint is and why it is not 
>recommended to use it at home?
>.
It can do strange things to your respiratory system. Try six-pack method for
home use... crack open the firt beer when you start, and pace yourself so the
last drop is done when the painting is done, that way quality won't suffer
towards the end of the job...

--pat.

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From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 07:30:00 -0400
Subject: Re: British Bulldog

My business dealings with Seth and his company are limited (I blew my wad
restoring my L-R  before meeting him), but I have no negative memories.
Seth was very supportive of a Solaros (Southern Land Rover Society) event
last fall - joined us on a trail ride, donated things for a fund raising
auction, and seemed a genuine nice guy.  In retrospect I really don't have
anything bad to say about Rovers North, DAP, Europarts, British Pacific, or
Atlantic British - all treated me well, gave me value for money spent.  The
only negative experiences came from ordering parts from the larger
suppliers in England - must be the language barrier I guess.... 
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Series III  88"

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 12:40:51 +0100
Subject: Re: British Bulldog

No, we have trouble with certain large suppliers in the UK too!  :-)

That, actually reminds me - I said I'd pop in on Southern Counties (just
around the corner) this lunchtime,  and its... lunchtime!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

erikvandyck@mindspring.com on 06/02/98 12:30:00 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: British Bulldog

My business dealings with Seth and his company are limited (I blew my wad
restoring my L-R  before meeting him), but I have no negative memories.
Seth was very supportive of a Solaros (Southern Land Rover Society) event
last fall - joined us on a trail ride, donated things for a fund raising
auction, and seemed a genuine nice guy.  In retrospect I really don't have
anything bad to say about Rovers North, DAP, Europarts, British Pacific, or
Atlantic British - all treated me well, gave me value for money spent.  The
only negative experiences came from ordering parts from the larger
suppliers in England - must be the language barrier I guess....
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Series III  88"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:46:29 EDT
Subject: Re: British Bulldog

I met Seth when he drove down to support the Florida Club's Rallye this
spring. I thought it a good show of support for a smallish club, and he was
frank and straight up with us. I haven't had to order parts since then, but
when I do, I will definitely give them a call, as they seem to have good
prices and give a discount to club members too. 

My only gripe: I didn't win the hi-lift he raffled off ;-) maybe next time...

--pat.

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 07:50:00 -0400
Subject: Heater for TeriAnn

Our sailboat used to have a small charcoal stove for heating. A small sealed
unit fuelled by barbeque charcoal. It drew combustion air from outside and
vented through the saloon roof. Maybe you could have something custom built
to fit the available space. Even have the main body of the stove outside
(under the wing?) and the stack passing through the inside to give up its
heat. One advantage would be the only effect from wading would be to make
the charcoal wet and hard to light.

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:43:14 +1000
Subject: : du choix de la langue

Frank Elson wrote:

>Actually I struggle with anyone who does not come from Lancashire....

Mate, we, down here, struggle with anyone who *does* come from Lancs.

Ron

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:42:08 +1000
Subject: Here we go again

OK, I'm off overseas again for work (I hope).  This time to Bangkok.  Any LR
owners in BKK?
I know my boss isn't gonna take this trip like he did for my trip to SF.  He
got ill in the USA and is still crook so he won't want to go to Thailand.

My dates are 22-26th June

Ron

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 08:52:04 EDT
Subject: Gears Multiplier?

All the British Bulldog talk made me go back to their website, and while
there, scan their Bulletin Board. While browsing the BB-BB, I saw what looked
like a semi-commercial-spammish posting, and being curious, I went to the
website advertised.

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 08:11:28 -0500
Subject: RE: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs

That price was given to me including all parts and labor.
It is supposed to be a very good conversion, with no side-effects.
There are a lot of shops that carry it on.
I even was close to buy an 88 with this engine; went to see it one day, 
felt OK with it, and when I came back the next day for the truck with the 
money the guy had already sold it. :-(
This engine is supposed to be extremely rugged and long lasting, and that 
gearbox is incredibly smooth and precise, just as any Japanese gearbox.
What I don't know is how much cutting and welding is needed, if any. If 
anybody is interested I can find out.

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

X-deleted-
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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 09:51:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Spin on oil filter adapter

I bought one of the AB two piece filter adapters. The only problem I
had was putting it on backwards. On the AB adapter, the oil pressure
sender needed to point towards the rear of the engine before I got
pressure. As for the o ring, it's nothing the filter doesn't already
have, and I've never seen a tight oil filter leak at the gasket. I think
the price was $65 or there about. I would buy one again.

Jim Hall  jimfoo@uswest.net
1966 88" with one less leak

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From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 09:07:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: electric fan thoughts?

Bill asks:
 
 Hi folks,
 Does anybody know if I can strike a happy medium between $60 Western Auto
 electric fans that mount through the core of the radiator (yikes!) and $250
 Flexalite fans w/ the proper brackets?

 
 Bill,

   $250, wow! I put the 16" Flexlite "Black Magic" on the the 101FC a couple
months ago. I bought it from the local Baxter Auto parts for $150. This one
included the correct brackets and the adjustable thermostat. It works great,
the V8 runs nice and cool, and QUIET. The viscous coupling that comes on the 
101 just limits the fan to 3000 RPM, which, since the engine is right next
to you, sounds remarkably like a 707 engine at takeoff. Now during freeway
cruising, you can actually talk to the passengers without screaming. Mounting
the fan was really easy. I'd shop around to some other parts stores, $250
sounds really high, plus summer is coming so many stores have these things 
on sale to "Get Ready for Summer".

Rgds
Mike
101FC

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 12:38:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Which paint to use?

Good info about painting... the best I've read so far. Only thing
is that you should try this URL instead... 

http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/bclandrover/FAQ/

-Scott

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:02:05 -0400
Subject: Sighting...

SEEN: on Sunday of Memorial Day weekend at Steamboat Lake north of
Steamboat Springs Colorado, a green IIA 88...
Anyone on the list?  
I was on the porch of the bed and breakfast just across from the lake
entrance, admiring the view...
of the passing 88, that is.
Colorado; what a great home for a Land Rover!

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From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 11:17:54 -0600
Subject: Re: British Bulldog
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!!

Great bunch of people. Recently had a exhaust valve go out, ordered all =
8 valves and had 'em in 4 days. Ordered a Weber to replace the Solex =
which had fallen to pieces (literally-never did find the brass fitting =
which was in the carb throat!!) didn't have the adapter, called 'em up =
and they found one lying around the shop which they sold for $20 (RN =
wants $95 for it!!) They are my main source for parts--can't afford RN =
prices!!!!.

Nothing but the best to say about 'em!! (well it would be nice to get a =
series catalog!!!)
Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

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From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 11:26:50 -0600
Subject: Brake light switch
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!

Another problem cropped up last night. Was returning from the movies =
(Godzilla-don't bother-fell asleep during it!!!) and noticed that my =
brake lights wouldn't come on unless the brake pedal was *really* =
pushed. I mean if I hit the brakes this hard during a normal stop, I =
would lock up the brakes!!! "The Beast" has a hydraulic switch and =
needless to say I don't want to change it (opening up the brake lines =
and all) if I can fix it otherwise. I'm thinking that the later series =
used an electric/mechanical switch--how hard to retrofit (or any other =
type mechanical brake switch)

I'm thinking that all that's needed is a bracket for the switch which =
the brake pedal would hit and accuate the lights. Correct?  Any other =
ideas??

Art

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

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From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 11:26:50 -0600
Subject: Brake light switch
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!

Another problem cropped up last night. Was returning from the movies =
(Godzilla-don't bother-fell asleep during it!!!) and noticed that my =
brake lights wouldn't come on unless the brake pedal was *really* =
pushed. I mean if I hit the brakes this hard during a normal stop, I =
would lock up the brakes!!! "The Beast" has a hydraulic switch and =
needless to say I don't want to change it (opening up the brake lines =
and all) if I can fix it otherwise. I'm thinking that the later series =
used an electric/mechanical switch--how hard to retrofit (or any other =
type mechanical brake switch)

I'm thinking that all that's needed is a bracket for the switch which =
the brake pedal would hit and accuate the lights. Correct?  Any other =
ideas??

Art

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:44:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Tappet Clearence & Timing

OK, I know this isn't good, but... I admit...
I've never checked my tappet clearences...
or my timing ...
in the 10 months since I've been a rover owner.

	So, I've decided that is the plan for the next few weekends (along
with doing a brake bleed, and a sump oil gasket, and a front pinion seal,
and a front output seal, and some carburator work etc...) . I'll have to go
buy a timing thingy (suggestions?), and install the pointer for the crank
pulley (I don't think my pully has markings though - it is a dual ex-mod).
	I did have the car in for some work in the fall, and told them to
do the points etc, they were replaced by me and gapped recently.

	My engine is running fine, and it's got compression of about 135psi
in each cylinder, give or take a few psi. It pulls me along nicely. The
only thing that is of major concearn is that it eats oil, about 1 qt. every
100 miles! The only leaks I see up there, after several cleanings, are the
sump seal (I think) and the front pinion seal. I only ever see oil burning
on a warm start-up.

	So how bad is it that I haven't checked these things?

Cheers - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:56:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Brake light switch

Art,
	I replaced my switch, the hydraulic type. I just unscrewed the old
one and quickly screwed the new one on. During this, the brake fluid came
out, which is good, because it helps prevent air entry (leave off your
resv. cap). Once you put the new one in, and find a little air has entered
your system (which it didn't on my replacement), you could always bleed
from this point.
	To do this I would just unscrew the pressure switch a little, and
have someone step on the brakes slowly, and as they get near the end of
pedal travel, just tighten up the switch.

	Cheers - Peter
	(PS, let me know if you are tossing your old Solex)

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

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From: AKetc24290@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 15:04:24 EDT
Subject: The Workman's Bogus Journey

Hi folks,
  We are currently in Whitehall, Montana, on our Alaska to Georgia pilgramage.
Everything is going great and the '65 109" SW, "Baldwin", is performing near-
flawlessly.  To date, Land Rover-wise, we inspected 3 Rovers just inside
Canada near the Alaskan border. One was a very restorable 86" Ser I, the
others straight Ser II's, one a 5-door and the other a PU.  The owner seemed
reluctant to part any (We were interested in the truck cab off the hapless
PU), but I agreed with him that the SW and the Ser I were VERY restorable.
We'll be keeping in touch with him on the Ser I, though.  Dave Mackie of
Edmonton guided us to the doorsteps of Malcolm Engleman, who is a fine
collector/mechanic of all things Rover, cars and trucks, Triumph, cars and
bikes, and inumerous other antiquities.  A fine gentleman that we thoroughly
enjoyed our time with.  He is setting us up with the bits for our tilt
conversion on our 88".  In Montana we stopped and talked to the owner of the
finest AA Yellow 90 I have ever seen, but his name escapes me now.  He very
much liked  our Series rig, and that makes him immediately my new friend!  We
stopped in Great Falls, Montana to speak with Creed Evans.  He has a lot to
offer the Rover Community in a wealth of parts.  We will definately be in
touch and his name will surely grace some of my checks in the future.  Well,
that's about it up to this point.  We are taking lots of pictures and keeping
a better log than what is expressed above, I just thought I would give a quick
note to those that expressed interest before our departure.  All along our
trip we have spread the Rover word.  We spend more time at gas stations
explaining all the benefits of Land Rover Ownership to the interested, than we
do taking care of business.  We wouldn't have met all of these great people we
have come across if we weren't driving such a unique, capable vehicle.  And
also, simply put, kids LOVE Land Rovers.  I'm glad I put my big 7" yellow
flood lights on a foot switch, because they have become a hailing beacon for
wide-eyed children riding in the back of vehicles that inevitably are passing
us by.
  From here we travel through Yellowstone on our way to Hastings, Nebraska,
where our family lives.  I will back-track to the Solihull Society Rally in
Steamboat Springs, CO (What's an extra thousand miles?), and we will depart
Nebraska around July 6th.
We travel to Charleston to pick up the '72 88", and off we go to Ft. Benning,
GA. 
  I will try to hop on a computer every once in a while to tell everyone "hi",
but for now, may the wind be at your back, Bren.  

Bren Workman
Ft. Benning, GA
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"  Currently on an Alaska to Georgia cross-continental
Land Rover Anniversary pilgramage:  A wife, a daughter, three fat cats, a
German Shepard named "Rover", and me, as the idiot
    

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:58:58 +0200
Subject: Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5.-10.

Sorry for this crossplot, but:

Anyone who might give me some tips about what is worth doing/seeing (Land
Rover wise) around Brekenridge in Colorado in early July?

I am planning to go there for a conference and will hopefully at least have
a few hours  for sightseeing each day or might extend my stay if its
worthwhile
Do LRNA have any facilities in that area?

Any help or tips welcome.

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake light switch

Art,

Change the hydraulic switch - next stop after this one is the guts start to
leak...

Easy to do - unscrew it and let it drip while you put the new one in. No
bleeding that way.

If you want one cheap and fast, go to the local foreign-auto place and get
a switch for a VW Bug. Bosch - works fine, lasts longer than Lucas.....8*)

               aj"I have that switch meself..."r

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 22:44:13 +0200
Subject: Testing, no content

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:52:54 EDT
Subject: Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs

In a message dated 01/06/98  23:28:12, you write:

<< When I was reading all this 6 cyl. diesel engines stuff, I realized that no
 one had made any comment about the most usual engine adaptation found in 
 this country.
 What people do around here is to install a toyota "B" diesel engine with 
 gearbox and transfer case as found in LandCruisers.
 It is a 3 liter engine with more horsepower, and a gear box that makes them 
 much more speedier.
 I have seen a lot of trucks with this conversion. Specially 109's are 
 worked this way.
 I researched a little and found that the whole job is performed for about 
 US$2500.
  >>
Hi Luis,

one of the points I made when talking about my IVECO was that in different
parts of the world different engines are available at different costs (and
some parts problems do arise).
The Toyota 'B' engine is superb but in the UK (as a for instance) it is not
available. In other parts of Europe it always seems to be the 4.2 litre size.

best cheers

Frank

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:53:01 EDT
Subject: Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs

In a message dated 02/06/98  01:04:47, you write:

<< maybe that's the
 ideal LR; good body & suspension mated to a stronger engine...
  >>
that's why I have the Iveco :-)>

best cheers

Frank

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:53:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Which paint to use?

Bronze Green

best cheers

Frank

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:53:02 EDT
Subject: Re: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs

In a message dated 02/06/98  01:54:51, you write:

<< They even get stolen more often that new cars. There is a huge market for
those cars. >>

Do you have 'ram raiding'?
In the Uk that is when a car is driven at high speed through a security
shutter and window into a store that sells high value small(ish) items. Vcrs
are popular.
The vehicle of choice is the Range Rover Classic because the older ones are
often easy to steal because nothing much in the way of anti-theft stuff goes
on a £1500 UKP value motor.
We've seen some spectacular security camera footage of these in shopping
malls, burning rubber!!

best cheers

Frank

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 17:35:16 EDT
Subject: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

I have before me, two oil filters. Both are Fram PH8A "Extra Guard", both
orange, and the same size; but they are different. FWIW, I bought them both
within a week, and they are new, not sitting on a shelf for years.

The differences are:

One is marked "Fleet Service Pack" and one isn't.
One came shrink-wrapped in plastic (the FSP), and the other in a box.
The FSP one has twelve 1/4ish holes near the gasket, the other has six 3/8ish
holes mid-way between the gasket and central threaded hole.
The FSP one has the threaded hole flanged "up", the other one is flanged
"down".
The twelve holes on the FSP filter have a rubber valve below them, and the
other one has a metal diaphragm with 10 (?) holes, the rubber valve below
those ten.
Looking down the central threaded hole, the FSP one is just the filter
element, the other one has a spring looking thing at the top, then the
element.

So, what's the deal here? I tried looking for a Fram wwwsite, or Allied
Signal, but didn't find it. 

Any one of these two better than the other? I think I currently have a Fleet
Service Pack filter on the truck, and after 3900 miles, the oil is still
clean, or at least it is yellow and not black, so I guess the filter is doing
something. (Not that it matters, but it is Mobil1, the red cap 20/50?)

--pat.

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 17:41:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake light switch

In a message dated 02/06/98  21:21:32, you write:

<< lasts longer than Lucas >>

so does a burning cigarette

best cheers

Frank

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 14:37:03 -0700 
Subject: RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

I have heard that most newer PH8A filters have a back flow prevention
valve in them, while that older ones don't.

Maybe this is the difference here?

Paul in Victoria.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:50:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

On Tue, 2 Jun 1998 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:

> I have before me, two oil filters. Both are Fram PH8A "Extra Guard", both
> orange, and the same size; but they are different. FWIW, I bought them both
> within a week, and they are new, not sitting on a shelf for years.

Well, not your shelf anyway.  Not much way to know how long the source had
them.  Oil filer designs are changed from time to time, and if
Allied-Signal doesn't make all their filters in the same place, they may
have different designs be current at the same time.  Or one could be a
superceded version.  If you are worried about it, go buy a third (or look
at) from a completly differnet source, and see which it matches.  

David

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 17:55:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

In a message dated 02/06/98  22:40:40, you write:

<<  have before me, two oil filters. Both are Fram PH8A "Extra Guard", both
 orange, and the same size; but they are different. FWIW, I bought them both
 within a week, and they are new, not sitting on a shelf for years.
  >>

sorry can't come up with an idea why they are so different - seems much more
than a 'new and improved' design that you just managed to get in either side
of the production run.

but what I am wondering is, why did you buy two, within a week?

best cheers

Frank

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 03:55:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5.-10.

Mr. Jensen,

Than Solihull Society Land Rover Club of Colorado will have just recently
finished our National Rally in Steambaot.

However, I am sure that there are a few of us that would love to host you
for a feww hours one night, and take you on some Rovering 4wheel trips.

You will be approx. 85 miles from the nearest dealer...However, we will come
to you.

Give me a call.
John Wood 303-774-9225
Event Co- Solihull Society
www.solihullsociety.org

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:01:31 -0500
Subject: RE: 6 cyl toyota diesels in series LRs

Frank:

No, that trend has not yet arrived.
But don't worry, we just have to wait, it is just a matter of time before 
it does. :-(
What I don't think is going to happen is watching them using rovers, It 
would be more likely
to watch them using Sentras or Corollas!!

-----------

You have a point when talking availability. I've never seen an Iveco engine 
in my life, for example.
But Japanese engines, they are incredibly easy to find. There are even 
companies that import Japanese 2nd hand engines and parts by containers and 
do great business. You don't look for a wrecker, you look for a Japanese 
importer. (I guess that's politically correct!)

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

X-deleted-
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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:09:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

Why did you bought two filters anyway?

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 06:33:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

I  think Brett should continue this thread, he spoke to Fram at the time of
the backwards spin on adapter saga...........over to you Brettski. Tell it
all. Come on, get it off your conscience.

Paul Quin wrote:

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From: "Alan Bishop" <alan@owlshouse.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 23:45:02 +0100
Subject: series II questions

Iam about to take delivery of a 1966 series IIa SWB with a canvas top and
have a couple of questions someone may be able to answer.

Firstly I assume that the gearbox does not have syncromesh (Could well be
spelt wrong!!) on all the gears, if this is the case what difference does it
make? Having never driven anything older than 1987 I am afraid that I don't
know.

Secondly, the land-rover at present has a complete canvas top and I am
wonding which is quicker to remove - canvas or hard top? If I where to get a
hard top does it need to be a series II, I know that the wheelbase changed
but did it effect the rest of the body? Anyone what I would expect to pay
for the said item? Anyone have one for sale!!?

Lastly, at present it appears to have seats from an MG montego, can anyone
tell me if car seats are a sensible option or if original seats are a must.

Sorry for all the questions.

Regards

Alan.

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:47:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Used Series Parts for trade in Ottawa

Hi,
I am restoring a 66-68 IIA 88" in my garage and have a lot of used
spare parts that came with the truck when I bought it last summer,
which I may want to trade for parts I may need for my resto.  If
anyone is interested in trading, or comparing notes and tips about
restoration, please drop me a line and we could get together
sometime.
Regards,
	--Robert

-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:57:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Support to Teriann

Hi Teriann,
Read with some interest and some sadness the recent messages to and from
you, commenting about your contributions to the list etc.  I have been
on here, mainly lurking and acquiring a substantial amount of technical
knohow from the various posters, to help me in my project to put back 
together a 68 88" I acquired late last summer, basically a rolling
chassis on a new frame, with a seized engine, no wiring etc.  I don't 
think I'll have it back together in time for the jubilee year, but
I'm having lots of fun poking away at it in my garage.
Finding out that you acquired your "Green Rover" in rather decrepit
state and nursed it back to health gives me hope and encouragement,
Teriann.  And your informed and informative posts are always welcome,
on the technology side.  Your travel stories are also appreciated,
as it feeds my own dreams of taking my IIA for some mini-treks
one day.
Please keep sharing your knowledge and experience, because I find
it quite informative (as is the case for numerous other posters
on here who are too numerous for me to thank).  I hope that some
day, when I get knowledgeable enough, I can start helping out
a new generation of LR enthusiasts.  I wonder how long these 
fine old vehicles can keep going - as long as spare parts are 
around they should have a long life yet.
Regards, and thanks again
Sincerely,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 98 16:26:52 -0700
Subject: Re: series II questions

>Firstly I assume that the gearbox does not have syncromesh (Could well be
>spelt wrong!!) on all the gears, if this is the case what difference does it
'>make? Having never driven anything older than 1987 I am afraid that I 
don't
'>know.

You need to double shift going between 1 up to 2, 3 down to 2, 2 down to 
1.  You can just push in the clutch and shift between 2 up to 3, 3 up to 
4, 4 down to 3.  

Of course you should always be fully stopped before shifting into or out 
of reverse.

If you do not know how to double shift up or down, please ask.  If you do 
not double clutch among the above mentioned gears you will break the 
transmission over a short time.

>Secondly, the land-rover at present has a complete canvas top and I am
>wonding which is quicker to remove - canvas or hard top? If I where to get a
'>hard top does it need to be a series II, I know that the wheelbase 
changed
>but did it effect the rest of the body? Anyone what I would expect to pay
>for the said item? Anyone have one for sale!!?

Any hard top from an 88 inch wheel base LR should fit your car properly.  
You will find a row of 1/4 inch bolts along the top of the windscreen  
and larger bolts at all four corners that need to be unbolted in order to 
remove the hard top.  You may find a bolt on each side about half way 
along the side and you may also find one on each side of the rear door 
opening.  

I give myself an hour and need a second person to walk the hard top off 
the back.  I have never done a soft top but I suspect it goes faster and 
you may not need a second person.

>Lastly, at present it appears to have seats from an MG montego, can anyone
>tell me if car seats are a sensible option or if original seats are a must.
'
I do not think that there are any "musts" unless you are building a stock 
show car.  If the seats fit and you like them, use them.  The old series 
seats are not known for being the most comfortable available.

>Sorry for all the questions.
'
Questions are one of the most important reasons that the list is here.

Best of luck with your new purchase
>Sorry for all the questions.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I belong to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 19:44:30 EDT
Subject: Re:  series II questions

Alan,

You're right in assuming that your gearbox won't be synchro in all gears (if
it's original).  1st and 2nd won't have synchro, so you'll have to double
clutch into 2nd gear on the way up and down (if you're moving when you shift
into it, that is).

That means you depress the clutch once while you move the gearshift lever into
neutral, let the clutch up, wait until the RPMs sound right (you'll learn that
by cringing lots of times--esp. while you learn to downshift), then depress
the clutch again and (hopefully) slip it smoothly into second gear.

Or, of course, we could follow the "I drive w/o using the clutch" thread again
for a while . . .

Third and fourth are just like any other four speed, just noisier, and it's a
good idea to shift slowly on these, though there's no need to double clutch.

Not sure which top is easier to remove, but the canvas one is sure a lot
easier to fold up and put in the back.   The wheelbases didn't change from
SII--SIIA--SIII, so an 88" hard top should be an 88" hard top, as far as I
know.

If the MG metro seats are comfy (and you're not a purist) LEAVE THEM IN, b/c
the original seats darn sure aren't, and many of us spend a lot of time
cursing them wishing we had something else in there.

Bill

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:00:01 EDT
Subject: Re:  RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

In a message dated 6/2/98 6:13:59 PM, you wrote:

>Why did you bought two filters anyway?

I bought one first, when I realized I had donated the spare that usually sits
in the back of the closet to someone. Then I went and bought another one to
put in, or put the spare I just bought in, then the one I just bought becomes
a spare to have on hand, whatever...

Ok, so who needs a spare oil filter, they don't break, right? I do, because I
prefer to use this brand of filter over the generic no-name-who-knows-if-it-
has-a-backflow-preventer type which is carried at the nearby discount auto
parts. I have to drive farther for the Frams, so I keep one here.

FWIW, the backflow preventer is said to be necessary on V8's to stop the pump
from losing it's prime.

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:04:06 EDT
Subject: RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

My hunch on the differences has less to do with their date/place of
manufacture, and more to do with the fact that one is marked *Fleet Service
Pack* and packaged in a large case, and the other is sold as an individual
unit. I'm wondering if it is like sticks of butter, not to be sold
individually, or restaurant mustard, which is labelled for foodservice use
only, etc...

Anyway, I will put the filter in and see if the truck can tell the
difference...

--pat.

hmmm... Fleet Service Pack... sounds like a large batch of enemas...

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From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 18:28:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Tips wanted for visit to Brekenridge/Denver Colorado July 5

Bjornung Jensen wants Land Rover doings/seeings in Breckenridge, 
Colorado.

This is a bit of nothingness to the rest of the world, but it is a 
major factoid here:  Breckenridge has the only police force in the 
United States that is equipped with Land Rovers (white Discos).  
Photograph one while you are there -- they are rare!!

T.F. Mills
tomills@du.edu  (University of Denver, Denver, CO 80208, USA)
Land Rover page:    http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "KMCO" <KMCO@KEAR.TDS.NET>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:51:22 -0400

	charset="iso-8859-1"

unsubscribe LRO

------=_NextPart_000_0158_01BD8E68.339B4A40
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 20:59:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

In a message dated 6/2/98 8:03:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SPYDERS@aol.com
writes:

<< Ok, so who needs a spare oil filter, they don't break, right? I do, because
I
 prefer to use this brand of filter over the generic no-name-who-knows-if-it-
 has-a-backflow-preventer type which is carried at the nearby discount auto
 parts. I have to drive farther for the Frams, so I keep one here.
 
 FWIW, the backflow preventer is said to be necessary on V8's to stop the pump
 from losing it's prime. >>

Hi Pat,

FWIW, I use Napa oil filters.  I used to use Fram until curiosity led me to
cutting one open and comparing with some other brands.  Napa filters have much
greater surface area, tighter spring (holding the filter to the plate) and
also contain a backflow valve.  Cost is about the same.

Nate

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:08:19 EDT
Subject: Re:  Filter

In a message dated 6/2/98 9:02:13 PM, you wrote:

>FWIW, I use Napa oil filters.  I used to use Fram until curiosity led me to
>cutting one open and comparing with some other brands.  Napa filters have
much
>greater surface area, tighter spring (holding the filter to the plate) and
>also contain a backflow valve.  Cost is about the same.

Yeah, those were what I used in Wisconsin & NY, but down here in Miami, I have
to look far & wide for a NAPA store, don't know why, though. It seems that if
you don't demand quality down here, what you end up with is close to crap (at
least it smells bettr than actual crap). I'm convinced it has to do with the
local geography and perhaps the residents as well. Oh well. Thanks though for
the info...

--pat.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 21:06:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

On Tue, 2 Jun 1998 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:

> My hunch on the differences has less to do with their date/place of
> manufacture, and more to do with the fact that one is marked *Fleet Service
> Pack* and packaged in a large case, and the other is sold as an individual
> unit. I'm wondering if it is like sticks of butter, not to be sold
> individually, or restaurant mustard, which is labelled for foodservice use
> only, etc...

I don't think that fleet service pack filters are for individual sale.
They are for fleet, and anybody else who uses a lot of them, like quick
lube type places.  I used to put them in a VW truck I had, and never
noticed them to be any different from the boxed ones.  Don't worry about
it.

David

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From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 22:14:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Fram Oil Flirters ;-)

Paul Quin wrote:
I have heard that most newer PH8A filters have a back flow prevention
valve in them, while that older ones don't.

Maybe this is the difference here?

Too true Paul. Many moons ago I bought a dozen PH8A's at a good price and
spent the next couple of years working through them. When my stock finally
dried up, off I went to K-Mart for a new filter. Did an oil and filter
change, jumped in the Rover and went for a spin. Twelve miles later the
engine seized up. Couple days later we pulled the lump out, tore it down,
thought we found the problem, stuck in some new main and big end brgs. and
away I went. Two miles up the road and the engine seized up AGAIN! Rats.
Pulled the lump once more and after a lot of poking, prodding and head
scratching somebody finally realized the spin on adapter was up side down.

Obviously I had been driving for years with the oil flowing through the
filter in the wrong direction, but why all of a sudden a major problem now?
We cut a filter open and realized the rubber ring just below the holes in
the open end of the filter was a anti drain back devise. A call to Fram
revealed that they had just recently changed this filter, improving the anti
drain back feature. Like Dave is always telling me, "95% of all problems
originate directly behind the steering wheel"

Brett

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From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 08:38:09 +0200 
Subject: New engine

HI

I own a SIII 109 SW 2.25 Diesel. After my Engine had a blow off last week I
think about changing it  to a stronger Unit. Has anyone a good idea what
engine ist cheap to by ( in germany) an easy to fit?  I have read a lot
about the 6.2 l GM V8 Diesel. The only problem is the price. How much dose
such an Engine cost in USA inc. conversion Kit ?  Dose anyone know where to
get more information ? 

By,
 

Dennis Kuhl   
Owner 109 SIII  1980 SANTANA SW

dennis.kuhl@hvr.siemens.de
dennis@i-lab.de  

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 02:49:19 EDT
Subject: Re: New engine

Dennis,

I personally am NOT familiar with the G.M. unit, however...as I see lots of
them for sale in the U.K., and NOT in the USA, I would tend to believe that
they aren't that great. In fact, I've NEVER seen any of them for sale here!
Maybe I'm not looking in the proper place - I don't know. Anybody else here
have any experience with them?

I would guess that, because of it's size, that it has plenty of power, but for
the asking price for them in the U.K., I'd imagine that though a bit more
complicated, a Tdi unit may be a better choice?

At least, you wouldn't have to cut up your truck to make it fit.

Charles

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From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 08:59:03 +0200 
Subject: AW: New engine

> At least, you wouldn't have to cut up your truck to make it fit.
> Charles

      Hi Charles.	
	
	I have got the masure of the 6.2 Engine and it sit smaler than the
Rover V8. So i think there are no cuts needed to fit the engine.

	By,

Dennis Kuhl   
Owner 109 SIII  1980 SANTANA SW

dennis.kuhl@hvr.siemens.de
dennis@i-lab.de  

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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and
Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved.

Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.

Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM).
Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM).
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